If raising ducks for eggs is something that appeals to you, but you’re not sure where to start, this list of six egg-producing duck breeds is the perfect place to begin. Like chickens, some duck breeds are primarily ornamental, some are ideal for meat and others are admired for their egg-producing abilities. Ducks are among four poultry species that are commonly raised for eggs.
1. Campbell
PETER M/Flickr
Commonly referred to as the Khaki Campbell because of its tan color, the Campbell is unquestionably one of the best breeds when raising ducks for eggs—these ducks have been known to lay as many as 340 eggs per year. Campbells are active foragers and well-suited to a variety of climates, making them an ideal breed for hobby farmers throughout the world. According to Dave Holderread, author of Storey’s Guide to Raising Ducks (Storey Publishing, 2nd edition 2011), Campbells are happiest when they receive an adequate diet, calm environment, and plenty of grazing space, and are part of a flock of less than 200 birds. Be aware that crossbreeds sold as Campbells may not lay as well, so ensure the breed’s authenticity when acquiring your animals.
2. Runner
Kelly Weatherly/Flickr
The oldest of the six duck breeds listed here, the Runner—sometimes called the Indian Runner—is another highly productive layer, producing as many as 300 chicken-sized eggs per year. Like the Campbell, the Runner is categorized as “lightweight” by the American Poultry Association, the category most often associated with stellar producers when raising ducks for eggs. Runners are voracious foragers. Historically, the ducks were used in Chinese rice patties to gather weeds, snails, insects and even small reptiles, so don’t be surprised if your ducks uncover an array of “treats” from around your farm. They will likely forage a large area and are very active, so be sure to provide them plenty of space.
3. Buff
Tracie Hall/Flickr
The Buff is among duck breeds known as dual-purpose. Slightly larger than the others on this list—weighing 7 to 8 pounds—it’s classified as “medium” by the American Poultry Association. Also known as the Orpington, Buffs lay fewer eggs than their smaller relatives but can still produce more than 200 eggs each year; they’re also ideal meat birds.
Listed as a critically endangered species by The Livestock Conservancy, the Welsh Harlequin, which hails from Wales, is another lightweight duck breed that produces remarkable amounts, often yielding more than 300 white eggs each year. Known for their practicality around the farm, this heritage breed can be raised for meat and because hens are broody, they can also help you to raise ducklings. Welsh Harlequins are among duck breeds that can be raised for meat.
5. Magpie
Selbe/Flickr
This lovely lightweight duck, typically black and white but also found in blue-and-white, lays as many as 290 eggs per year. If striking egg colors are something you desire, the Magpie won’t disappoint: Its eggs range in color from white and cream to blue and green. Magpies tend to be quieter than other duck breeds, offering peace for those who might not enjoy the constant sound of quacking ducks.
6. Ancona
RobinzRabbit/Flickr
Like the Buff, this medium-sized duck (about 6 to 6½ pounds) is an excellent dual-purpose breed, laying around 240 eggs per year and producing high-quality, flavorful meat. This England native is an attractive bird that, like the Magpie, comes in many colors and can produce a variety of white, cream, blue and green eggs. These birds have calm dispositions, prefer ample foraging space, and make good yard or pond birds, as their size protects them from being the prey of winged predators. The Livestock Conservancy lists the Ancona as critically endangered among duck breeds.
Other breeds are good egg producers when you are raising ducks for eggs. The breed you choose will depend in part on where you live, which ducks are available for purchase and whether you are interested in helping to raise and protect a rare species; however, if the quantity of eggs is your goal because you’re feeding a family or selling eggs at market, these six breeds are bound to please.
This article about raising ducks for eggs was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Rooster crowing is the culprit of most rooster-keeping complaints and tops the cons on a chicken-keeping pros and cons list. Round-the-clock crowing serves as the primary reason why so many municipalities do not permit the keeping of a rooster. Even in rural and agricultural zones, residents often file noise complaints against chicken farmers whose roosters are simply behaving the way roosters do.
Sometimes, however, a healthy rooster doesn’t crow at all. A bird that previously greeted the sun, the wind, his hens and any insect that crawled or flew by with a hearty cock-a-doodle-do now cock-a-doodle-doesn’t.
Wondering why your boy went silent or perhaps has yet to crow? Here are four reasons why.
1. Injury
When our Lavender Orpington, Claude, was injured early this year, he immediately fell silent. It took two weeks of intense rehabilitative work with him, focusing on reteaching him to walk, before I realized he wasn’t making a peep.
I thoroughly examined his neck. Then I watched him eat to make sure he had not injured his throat or vocal cords, something that our local veterinarian confirmed.
Claude’s noisemaker was perfectly fine. He simply was behaving instinctively, staying silent in order to not draw the notice of a predator. An injured rooster cannot hold his own against a swooping hawk or a stealthy fox, nor can he properly protect his hens.
When a rooster doesn’t crow, a rooster believes himself to be more or less invisible and off a predator’s radar.
2. Illness
Roosters that have fallen ill also tend not to crow. But not because they are avoiding predation.
When a sick rooster doesn’t crow, his silence is twofold. First, the energy expended in energetically crowing all day long has been reallocated to battling the bacteria or virus invading his system.
Second, by staying silent while sick, the ailing rooster avoids drawing the attention of the other roosters in his flock, who would happily turn on one of their own if it means reorganizing the pecking order to their advantage.
Even high-rank hens, especially older girls set in their ways, may peck at the poor roo. So mum’s the word for him while he recovers.
3. Bullying
In flocks where the alpha male—and, on occasion, his deputies—is especially dominant or aggressive, a lower-ranked rooster may be the butt of continual bullying and harassment. After repeated “lessons” from the flock boss (and quite possibly his cohorts), the picked-on rooster may simply fall silent out of self-preservation.
When our Lavender Orpington rooster, Ginger Bean, overthrew his father, Claude, last year, we temporarily moved Claude in with his brother Thomas and his flock. Thomas treated Claude very well … as long as Claude didn’t make a sound. The moment Claude made the slightest noise, Thomas would tear across the run and peck Claude on the head.
It took a long week of pecking for Claude to learn to keep quiet to save his own skin.
4. Age
Sometimes when rooster crowing isn’t happening, it’s simply because he just has not yet reached that level of maturity. Juvenile cockerels typically crow for the first time between 8 to 10 weeks of age—sometimes sooner, sometimes later.
More often than not, those first crows will be infrequent and will not bear any resemblance to an adult crow.
Our little nine-week-old, Margarine, let out his first crow just last week. He sounded like a small child’s party horn, and he scared himself, his siblings and his mama hen. He has crowed a few times since then, but he won’t attain true adult crow-versations for another couple of months.
A swollen abdomen in chickens could be a symptom of any number of illnesses or health issues, several of which directly or indirectly affect the hen’s reproductive system. In veterinary medicine, there is rarely one cause of a condition, so we usually begin with a list of differential diagnoses and use lab tests and physical exams to differentiate. With this in mind, your best course of action is to reach out to your county-extension poultry personnel or veterinarian for help in differentiating the various causes of a swollen abdomen in chickens. Veterinarians can perform a physical exam and run diagnostic tests, including X-rays, to distinguish between fluid and solid contents in the abdominal cavity.
Approach the diagnostic process with a clear sense of the animal’s financial value to your operation: Although some services might be available free of charge through a land-grant extension office, the expense of some diagnostic tests and treatments can add up quickly. While it’s always worth your time and money to identify a bacterial or viral infection that could potentially impact more than one member of the flock, this might not be the case with a condition that only affects one hen.
Poultry keepers who keep genetically improved breeds, bred for high egg production, might see these problems more frequently in their flocks, as production breeds—most of which are usually kept for 12 to 18 months in commercial settings—do not have the genetics to support three to four years of egg-laying. The risk of reproductive disorders increases with age in laying hens. These afflictions aren’t exclusive to production breeds, however—they can show up in any small-scale flock. Although it’s best to have a veterinarian examine your chicken, here’s a short list of differential diagnoses.
1. Ascites (aka Water Belly)
Fluid can accumulate in the abdominal cavity, secondary to heart disease or tumors in the heart and liver. Fluid in the abdominal cavity is usually accompanied by respiratory distress and cyanosis (bluish color) of the combs and wattles. There is no treatment for ascites.
2. Tumors
Several diseases, such as Marek’s disease, lymphoid leukosis and various adenocarcinomas, cause tumors and enlargement of a chicken’s internal organs, such as the liver, which might, in turn, distend the abdomen. Tumor diseases tend to be chronic, and affected chickens slowly suffer weight loss and decreased appetite. All day-old chicks should be vaccinated for Marek’s disease at the hatchery. Lymphoid leukosis can be transmitted from hens to developing embryos; therefore, disease-free chicks should be purchased from reputable hatcheries. There is no treatment for tumor diseases.
3. Fat Deposition
Extremely obese hens have a thick fat pad that can distend the lower abdomen. Obesity, normally caused by high-energy diets, also predisposes chickens to a condition called fatty liver hemorrhagic syndrome, where the liver is infiltrated with fat and can contribute to abdominal distension. The syndrome causes acute death in chickens when blood vessels in the liver rupture and cause internal bleeding. It’s seen increasingly in backyard and pet chickens that are fed table scraps high in calories. It’s also very common with small-scale flocks fed free-choice via feeders. Chickens should be fed a well-formulated and appropriately portioned diet to avoid FLHS.
4. Cystic Oviduct
Normally, only the left ovary and oviduct of the hen are functional, but sometimes, the right oviduct is functional and becomes cystic. The cysts appear in a range of sizes, and overly large cysts can distend the hen’s abdomen and compress internal organs. Your veterinarian might be able to drain the cyst nonsurgically using a sterile syringe and needle.
5. Impacted or Egg-Bound Oviducts
These oviductal disorders are seen in obese hens, older hens or pullets that come into lay too early. The oviduct becomes blocked by an egg or a mass of broken eggs and eventually eggs are pushed back into the body cavity as the hen continues to lay. Affected hens walk like penguins when the eggs in the abdomen are excessive.
There is no technical difference between impaction and “egg-bound;” however, I don’t like using the term egg-bound, as it’s more appropriate for what happens in pet birds, such as parrots, where one fully formed egg is stuck in the oviduct.
In chickens, the obstruction can result from several lodged eggs or a mass of broken shells, shell membranes, or a mass of yolk and egg white, and the result is the same. When impaction occurs in the front part of the oviduct (aka uterus), which is usually the case, eggs enclosed by shell membranes might be found in the abdominal cavity. This indicates that eggs continued to form but were refluxed back into the peritoneal cavity. The prognosis for affected hens is poor. The use of antibiotics might prolong an affected chicken’s life for a few months, but it will eventually die from the condition.
6. Salpingitis
This inflammation of the oviduct occurs frequently and can be introduced through the cloaca by various means, including pecking. The most common infection is by E. coli bacteria. In later stages of the condition, the oviduct and abdomen become distended due to masses of foul-smelling, cheesy contents in the oviduct. The cheesy masses are sometimes mixed with egg contents; as a result, salpingitis can frequently be confused with an impacted oviduct.
A chicken with salpingitis can remain healthy for a long time—until the late stage when oviductal contents start to impinge on vital organs. The chicken then becomes sick, refuses to eat and slowly declines. Antibiotics seem to help only temporarily, and while some veterinarians might attempt surgery, the chicken’s oviduct is so friable that the procedure is unlikely to be successful. Affected birds will die.
About the Author: Jarra Jagne, DVM, DACPV, senior extension associate, Veterinary Support Services, Cornell University Animal Health Diagnostic Center.
This article was vetted by Dr. Lyle G. McNeal.
This article the causes of a swollen abdomen in chickens originally appeared in the May/June 2013 issue of Hobby Farms. Click here to subscribe.
An effective deer fence is a necessity for protecting young fruit trees on farms where deer are plentiful. On my northern Wisconsin farm, deer are a pretty big issue. Oh, they’re nice enough to watch frolicking in the fields or meandering along the edges of the forest, but they’re voracious eaters, very destructive and altogether too numerous. Have you ever seen 30 deer at a single time? I have.
So I’m sure you can understand my concern when I planted 10 young fruit trees to start a new orchard on my farm. It seems that deer like nothing better than to eat special plants standing out in the open—forget that there’s a whole national forest to consume, let’s focus on fruit trees—so I knew beforehand that my trees would be vulnerable to deer if left unguarded.
Because I had no intention of allowing my future orchard to be eaten by hungry deer before I’d tasted so much as a single apple or plum, I knew I needed to construct fences around the trees to keep the deer away. Because deer are stubborn, resilient and surprisingly capable of overcoming blockades, it would have to be a good fence.
Ultimately, I plan to surround the entire orchard area with 8-foot, deer-proof fencing that will eliminate the issue once and for all. But because a project of that scope takes time to prepare and construct, I needed to start with a simpler solution.
Constructing Deer Fence Variations
So, I wound up constructing variations of the simple, effective fence I built to protect the farm garden from marauding deer. The main ingredient, of course, was 6-foot welded wire fencing, which I attached with zip ties to a quartet of metal T-posts to form a square of protective wire around each tree. With the sides of the square measuring about 6 feet long (just enough to enclose my trees with some room to spare on each side), I needed about 25 feet of wire per tree, so 250 feet total plus 40 T-posts.
It might sound ambitious, but it was really pretty simple. Because I’m not as concerned about smaller critters in the orchard as I am in the garden, I skipped the step of adding hardware cloth to the bottom of the wire enclosures, choosing to install only the 6-foot welded wire. At this point, you might be thinking, “How will a fence just 6 feet tall keep out the deer?” Well, it’s true that deer can jump a fence of that height, but because I’m enclosing such a small area (with a tree filling most of it), it would take a very bold (or a very stupid) deer to enter such an unforgiving, restricted space.
In the end, it took very little time to construct a fence around each tree, and thus far the results have been perfect. I’ve seen plenty of deer wandering through my orchard, but I’ve found no evidence that they’ve interfered with the fences or tried to push through to grab a bite. Instead, my trees are happy and healthy, protected from harm while they wait for the taller perimeter fence to be constructed.
Because these fences are only temporary until I build that perimeter fence, I’m not too concerned about weeds coming up around each tree. However, in case weeds do start to get out of hand, I left one end of the wire around each tree disconnected from its stake, choosing instead to tie the wire in place. This means that it’s easy for me to open up the wire to access the inside of the fence, which is ideal for weeding and adding or removing tree wrap and tree guards from the trunks.
Here’s hoping for great harvests in years to come!
Caterpillar identification is key in understanding whether a caterpillar is a friend or foe to your vegetable patch. Note that caterpillars have stinging hairs or other irritants, so it’s a good idea to use gloves when handling ones that you don’t recognize.
Let’s investigate four common caterpillars and what they mean to your garden.
1. Hornworms
Caterpillar identification – Hornworm Caterpillar
There are two varieties of hornworms: tomato hornworms and tobacco hornworms. These plump, light-green caterpillars can grow as thick and long as your finger which makes caterpillar identification pretty easy. Diagonal white lines vary from seven on tobacco hornworms to eight on tomato hornworms, with more of a V shape on the latter. Both have reddish dots along the body and a curved, pointy horn on the rear, which is red on tobacco hornworms and black on tomato hornworms.
As expected from their names, these caterpillars devour leaves of tomatoes, potatoes, tobacco, peppers, eggplants and others in the Solanaceae (nightshade) family. However, the adult moths pollinate night-blooming flowers. The tobacco hornworm becomes the Carolina sphinx moth (Manduca sexta) and the tomato hornworm becomes the five-spotted hawk moth (Manduca quinquemaculata). Large, strong fliers, with a wingspan up to 5½ inches, their scientific names give clues to how many pairs of yellow-orange spots decorate the body (six on the sphinx moth, five on the hawk moth).
The moths resemble hummingbirds. Each has a long proboscis perfectly suited for reaching inside tubular flowers, such as morning glories, sweet potatoes, moonflowers, petunias, Datura, and four-o’-clocks. As they drink deeply of the flower’s nectar, the moths spread pollen and help these plants develop fruits. The moths themselves pose no risk to the nightshade family, other than laying their eggs on them for the larva to enjoy.
To limit their population in your garden, encourage parasitic braconid wasps. They have an insidious technique for destroying the caterpillars after they’ve used them up. The tiny, stingless wasp injects the caterpillar with its eggs and after hatching, the wasp larva chow down on the caterpillar’s innards, avoiding major organs to prolong the slow death, until they work their way out to the surface. On the hornworm’s skin, they spin tiny cocoons, pupate and emerge as adult wasps by the time the caterpillar dies.
To support these natural predators, braconid wasps need nectar and pollen, and plants with tiny flowers fit them well. Examples include buckwheat, fennel, angelica, dill, goldenrod, yarrow, lovage, boneset, cilantro and Queen Anne’s lace.
2. Cabbage Looper
Caterpillar Identification – Cabbage Looper
Turn over a cabbage or broccoli leaf in mid-summer, and you’re likely to find a little worm, perfectly matched in color to the underside of the leaf. Upon closer inspection, a thin white line runs the length of each side. This tiny inchworm-like critter has prolegs and hindlegs and no legs in between, so it moves in a looping motion.
Caterpillar identification is crucial as the Cabbage Looper is commonly confused with other cabbage-eating caterpillars that metamorphose into white butterflies, the looper becomes the ni moth (Trichoplusia ni), also well-camouflaged. The mottled brown moth with about a 1-inch wingspan resembles a knobby dead leaf or tree bark. The ni moth belongs to Noctuidae, the largest moth family that includes other agricultural pests, cutworms and armyworms.
The looper eats most varieties of brassicas (aka cruciferous or cole crops), such as collards, kale, radish, turnip, broccoli and cauliflower. However, their taste isn’t limited to the cabbage family—they’ll eat the leaves of nearly every vegetable available in your garden. In nature, specialists have less chance of survival; as generalists, loopers are annoyingly successful.
To protect your crops, you have to outsmart the looper’s schedule. Row covers provide a physical barrier and extend the growing season by adding a layer of weather protection. Try planting early maturing varieties to beat the munching looper’s lifecycle. Diversify your garden and experiment with multiple varieties of brassicas to see which are more looper-resistant. Understanding the soil ecology at the base of the host plants will also help control pests, as the pupae are formed in the soil and crawl up to the leaves.
As with the hornworm, you can let another insect do the dirty work of extermination. Create habitat for parasitic wasps and tachinids, flies that not only feed on cabbage loopers but also destroy stinkbugs, gypsy moth larvae and Japanese beetles. In short, plant more flowers to support beneficial insects.
3. Monarch
Caterpillar Identification – Monarch Caterpillar (Caterpillar with White, Black and Yellow Lines)
Caterpillar identification is probably easiest and most recognizable for the Monarch: black-, yellow- and white-striped, with black antennae on the head and a body that stretches up to 2 inches long. Monarch caterpillars munch on milkweed—and lots of it!—not only for food but also for future protection. The milky sap from the leaves stays in their system even after metamorphosis and makes the adult butterfly taste offensive to predators. Birds will actually avoid them once they’ve learned their lesson.
The adult monarch butterfly is one of the most recognizable butterflies, keeping the same color scheme as the larva, with a stained-glass appearance to its pumpkin-orange wings, black veins and margins adorned with white spots.
Monarchs are the only butterflies that truly migrate, moving thousands of miles north to feed, depositing eggs along the way. In some cases, their offspring complete the journey for them. Returning south across the span of the United States, millions of monarchs head to Mexico to spend the winter huddled on massive pines and eucalyptus trees.
In recent years, a dramatic decrease in monarch populations has caused concerned groups to rally for their rescue. In addition to deep cultural ties to the Dia de Muertos traditions in Mexico, the monarch has recently become a symbol of pollinator conservation and appreciation for migration.
Because Monarch caterpillars only eat milkweed, they pose no threat to your garden. In fact, gardeners across the country go to great lengths to attract them. Historically, farms that let milkweed grow up along fences or between rows were a reliable nursery for caterpillars. The practices of using pesticides and fence-to-fence planting of monocrops are among the top reasons for the monarch’s decline.
Attractive flowers of blooming milkweed provide much-needed nectar for the migrating butterflies. Several varieties are available, producing colorful bouquets of rosy pink, lavender and orange. Other edible and medicinal herbs that attract butterflies include bee balm, catmint, Echinacea, comfrey and dandelion. In exchange for the sweetness, the butterflies provide pollination services for the plants.
A great list of butterfly host plants can be found on Monarch Watch, a source of information and supplies for all things monarch. Create a Monarch Waystation by planting the right amount and variety of host plants, which will attract other great pollinators and predatory insects. You can register your waystation and be included in a growing database of butterfly bed-and-breakfasts.
4. Cecropia
Caterpillar Identification – Cecropia Caterpillar
Caterpillar identification is fun with the Cecropia since it looks like a punked-out circus clown. It’s about as long and thick as your finger, neon green with multi-colored spiked knobs. Surprisingly, the spikes aren’t harmful to the touch. Many go through different stages, known as instars, so you may see the same caterpillar at a wide range of lengths as they molt and leave behind their old skin.
You might also be surprised to know that this hearty caterpillar poses no threat to your vegetables. If you have fruit trees, watch for them on apple and cherry leaves. They also go for maple and birch leaves. Despite their tough appearance, they have enough predators that they don’t normally become a pest.
If you find them and want to help them out, you can protect them as they spin their cocoon of leaves and provide a safe place to spend the winter, metamorphosing into an impressively huge moth. The cecropia is North America’s largest moth, with a wingspan up to 6 inches. These moths sport furry, russet bodies and wings that fool predators with four white crescent shapes that resemble eyespots. The adult has no working mouth parts, so its only mission is to mate. Eat, have sex, and die—that’s the life!
All gardens need animals. Besides bringing interest and fun, they create fertilizer, aerate soil, disperse seeds, regulate growth, decompose waste and pollinate flowers. Keep in mind that caterpillars are animals, too, and they do their part, as immature life forms and as adults, to maintain balance in the predator-prey dance that happens while we think we’re the ones gardening.
This article about caterpillar identification was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
But a handful of minis are more popular than the rest. You can consider them the big five of the miniature cattle world — Dexters, Lowlines, Miniature Herefords, Zebus and Jerseys.
You can register all five with both organizations, but each also supports a herd book of its own. Let’s take a closer look at these popular miniature bovine breeds.
1. Dexters
Dexters are tri-purpose cattle (beef, milk and draft).
The breed has a good foraging ability, as well as high feed conversion and meat-to-bone ratios. You can finish a grass-fed Dexter steer in 18 to 24 months, and it will dress out at 50 to 60 percent live weight.
Their beef is fine-textured, tender and delicious. Dexter cows give 1 1⁄2 to 3 gallons of roughly four percent butterfat milk daily, at a rate of up to one quart of cream per gallon.
No “outside” blood was used in its creation. They are purebred Angus bred 30 to 60 percent smaller than their standard (Highline) kin.
3. Miniature Herefords
Mini Herefords are another scaled-down purebred breed.
They are said to mature 20 percent faster than standards. They’re gentle, adapt to all climates, and are highly efficient foragers. Veterinarians familiar with beef breeds know how to treat them, too.
Miniature Herefords are a first-rate, easy-care choice for gourmet and organic beef producers.
4. Zebus
“Zebu” is another name for Bos indicus—all breeds of Asian humped cattle.
Most folks recognize the brawny Brahman, a full-size Zebu developed in North America. The mini size resembles Brahmans with two notable twists:
Mini Zebus’ upright ears don’t match the Brahman’s trademark floppy ones.
Mini Zebu cows have a lot less hump.
Both breeds, however, sport short, sleek coats and have tough, loose skin. They also have fully functional sweat glands.
Highly developed panniculus muscles make it easy for Zebus to twitch away flies. They’re heat-, disease- and insect-resistant, and they thrive on marginal pasture.
And rodeo-bull image notwithstanding, they are easy-going and remarkably intelligent.
5. Jerseys
Jerseys were barely more than today’s miniature size until recently, historically speaking.
The “bigger is better” boom ultimately impacted this ancient dairy breed. But enough bantam Jerseys remained to make selectively breeding them back to miniature frame a relatively easy task.
For today’s smaller households seeking a pocket-size family cow, Miniature Jerseys make good sense. They are gentle, prolific and a delight for the eyes. And their delicious, high-butterfat milk is hard to beat.
This story about miniature cattle was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Homemade fire starters are perfect if you’re someone who enjoys a nice bonfire while relaxing in your backyard, or while camping in the wilderness. They definitely come in handy. Sure, you can buy fire starters. but making them yourself is cost-effective and heck – it’s fun.
There are numerous supplies that can be used for making fire starters, including dryer lint, toilet paper and paper towel roles, dried twigs/pinecones/pine needles found in nature and more. Though, the fire starters I’m sharing how to make today are so special that we make extra to give as gifts around the holiday season.
This homemade fire starter project is easy, fun for the young and old, and pretty. I first saw this type of fire starter for sale while out thrifting years ago and decided to put my own twist on it – now it’s a tradition that our family looks forward to each fall.
Supplies Required
· Paper cupcake liners/or silicone muffin liners
· Cotton or hemp candle wick/thread (metal tabs removed if necessary)
· 1-pound bag of soy or beeswax wax pellets
· A muffin pan
· Scissors
· ¼ cup measuring cup to scoop wax and pour into liners
Stephanie Thurow
Supply Options to Tailor Your Homemade Fire Starters
· Homegrown chemical-free dried flowers of your choice (marigolds, strawflowers, calendula, lavender, rose)
· Whole cinnamon sticks (cut in half, if long) or other dried whole spices such as clove, allspice or star anise
· Dried citrus slices or other dried fruit
· Cedar wood chips or pine shavings
· Coffee beans
· Dried chemical-free small pinecones
· Dried rosemary
· Pine tree clippings
Stephanie Thurow
Directions:
Preheat your oven to 300°F.
Place cupcake liners in a muffin tray (as many fire starters as you’d like to make).
Scoop a heaping ¼ cup of wax pellets into each cupcake liner. Wipe away any that spill outside of the cupcake liners.
Once all liners are filled, carefully put the pan in the oven until all the wax has melted.
While the wax is melting, pre-cut as many fire starter wicks as you’ll need. I cut mine about 4” long.
Once the wax has melted, slowly and carefully remove the wax filled cupcake liners from the oven and place the pan on a heat-tolerant surface. One thing to keep in mind about melting wax is at every wax seems to have different melting instructions. Read them. The soy wax I typically use instructs me to heat the wax to 160°F, which takes me 13 minutes to heat in the oven.
Place one wick in each fire starter cupcake liner and begin to adorn the fire starters with whatever dried options you have chosen. The more goodies you can fit in your fire starter, the better they’ll burn.
Leave the fire starters in the muffin tin at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, until they are completely hardened, or overnight.
Stephanie Thurow
Instructions for Using Fire Starters
Place the homemade fire starter under dried wood and light the wick (not while holding). If you used silicone cupcake liners, be sure to remove the liner before lighting.
Making Homemade Fire Starters: Notes
Always keep away from children and pets.
Never leave a fire unattended.
This homemade fire starter is only intended for outside use.
We use a cupcake liner that is compostable as well as bleach-free and chlorine-free.
This article about how to make homemade fire starters was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
This pavlova recipe brings the dessert to the fall and holiday seasons with the flavors of cinnamon, maple and buttery, dried golden figs.
Eggs are the essential ingredient in a fluffy meringue dessert such as pavlova. Whipped to shiny, stiff peaks the nest of meringue bakes slowly so that it’s crisp on the outside and pillowy on the inside. The final layers of fruit and whipped cream create a treat of textures within each bite of this yummy pavlova recipe.
SERVINGS: 6
INGREDIENTS
Meringue
• ½ cup granulated sugar
• ½ cup powdered sugar
• 4 large egg whites
• ½ teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• pinch of salt
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Maple Fig Filling
• 8 ounces dried golden figs (about 20)
• 2 cups boiling water
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 4 tablespoons pure maple syrup
• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• pinch salt
Topping
• ¾ cup heavy whipping cream
• 2 tablespoons powdered sugar
• ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pavlova Recipe Preparation
Making the Meringue
To make the meringue, preheat the oven 200°F and place a piece of parchment paper to cover a baking sheet pan. Stir together the granulated sugar and the powdered sugar in a bowl, set aside.
Add the egg whites to an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Alternatively, a hand mixer can be used. Turn the mixer to medium. Start a stopwatch. Mix for 30 seconds until the whites foam slightly, then add the lemon juice and salt. Increase the speed to medium-high for 1 minute.
While the whites whip, add the sugars a heaping tablespoon at a time. Turn the mixer to high. Begin to check closely at about 8 minutes and mix until soft peaks form. Stop the mixer and add the cinnamon and vanilla, gently scrape the sides of the bowl if needed. Turn the mixer back to high until stiff peaks form. The whites should be shiny and hold their form when the whisk is lifted from the bowl, a total mixing time of about 10 minutes.
Add a dot of meringue under each of the four corners of the parchment paper to hold it in place on the baking sheet. Pile the meringue in the center of the baking sheet and use the back of a spoon to spread it into a 7½-to-8-inch circle, creating a slight indentation in the center like a nest.
Bake for 1 hour. Leave the oven door closed and turn off the oven. Let the meringue sit in the oven for 1 more hour. Remove the pan from the oven and set aside to cool completely.
Making the Pavlova Filling
While the meringue bakes, make the filling. Remove the stems from the figs and dice into small pieces. Place the figs in a bowl and cover them with the boiling water. Let sit for 20 minutes to soften. Strain the figs and reserve the soaking water.
Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the figs and cook for 1 minute. Pour in 2 tablespoons of the maple syrup and 6 tablespoons of the reserved soaking water. Increase the heat to medium-high and simmer for 5 minutes, until thickened. Cool to room temperature.
Transfer the cooked figs to a small food processor or blender. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of maple syrup, lemon juice, and salt. Pulse to chop all the ingredients. Add 2 to 4 more tablespoons of the soaking water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and continue to puree until thick and spreadable. Set aside.
Making the Topping
To make the topping, place the cream in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Mix on medium, then high for 6 to 8 minutes until firm peaks form. Stir in 1 tablespoon of powdered sugar. Chill until ready to use. Stir together the remaining 1 tablespoon of powdered sugar and the cinnamon in a small bowl.
Assembling & Serving
When ready to assemble, gently remove the meringue from the parchment and place on a serving plate. Spread at least ¾ of the fig filling inside the meringue nest. You can use all the filling to your preferences, or opt to reserve some in the refrigerator for other uses such as morning toast or to top yogurt.
Spread the whipped cream over the fig filling. Use a small mesh hand sifter to dust the whole dessert with the powdered sugar and cinnamon. Serve right away.
Christmas brunch recipes are part of many traditional holiday family activities. For chicken keepers, eggs can play a large part of this family meal. It’s a yearly opportunity to show off the bounty provided by our hens in a delicious, celebratory way. Here are three family-friendly Christmas brunch recipes.
Cheese Souffle
Cheese souffle is one of many Christmas brunch recipes that are delicious and something everyone craves.
Ingredients
1 tablespoon butter, softened
1/4 cup shredded Swiss cheese
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
3/4 cup milk, heated
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
3 large eggs, at room temperature
3 large egg whites, at room temperature
pinch of salt
pinch cream of tartar
1 1/2 cups shredded Swiss cheese
Preparation
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously butter the bottom and sides of a 2-quart baking or souffle dish with the softened butter.
Sprinkle 1/4 cup of shredded Swiss cheese into the souffle dish so that it sticks to the buttered bottom and sides, creating a layer of Swiss cheese. If necessary, use more butter and Swiss cheese.
Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Gently stir in the flour, stirring continuously for two minutes until the mixture resembles a paste. Reduce the flame to low, then whisk in the heated milk, creating a roux.
Cook for one minute, whisking continuously. Remove from heat, then season with salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper.
Separate the eggs into two bowls: the yolks into a small bowl and the whites into a large bowl. Add yolks to the roux, continually whisking until the yolks are fully incorporated. Set aside.
Add the three egg whites to the bowl with the separated egg whites. Beat the egg whites until they hold soft, foamy peaks. Add the salt and cream of tartar, then continue to beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form.
Using a rubber spatula, gently fold one quarter of the egg whites into the roux. Next, fold the Swiss cheese into the egg white/roux mixture.
Finally, fold the rest of the egg whites into the mixture, turning the mixture until the cheese and the white/roux mixture have been gently incorporated. Do not beat, whisk or stir until blended. These actions will deflate the egg whites.
Scoop the mixture into your prepared souffle dish, making sure that the mixture does not fill more than two-thirds of the dish. Set the souffle dish into a shallow baking dish, then carefully pour hot water into this outer dish so that the water level reaches halfway up your souffle dish.
Make sure no water gets into the souffle dish.
Bake for 1 1/2 hours or until the souffle has risen at least a half inch over the lip of the souffle dish and is golden brown on top. Serve immediately.
Baked Eggs
One dish—baked eggs in ramekins—was one of my mother’s most successful Christmas brunch recipes. She served it on special occasions. These days, I make it part of Christmas brunch whenever she visits for the holidays.
Ingredients
3 tablespoons butter, softened
6 large eggs
6 tablespoons butter, chilled
3/4 cup heavy cream
salt
black pepper
fresh parsley, minced
Preparation
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Generously butter six individual ramekins. Set the ramekins in a large baking dish, then add enough water to reach halfway up the ramekins.
Cut each tablespoon of chilled butter into quarters. Place four quarters of butter into each ramekin dish.
Top the butter with 1 tablespoon of heavy cream, then break an egg into each of the ramekins. Bake on a low oven rack for approximately 10 minutes or until the egg white starts to thicken in the ramekins. Top each egg with four additional quarters of butter and one tablespoon of heavy cream.
Sprinkle each ramekin with minced parsley. Return to the oven and bake for an additional eight to 10 minutes or until the eggs are set but jiggle slightly when the ramekins are gently shaken.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve with toast triangles.
My Christmas quiche is crustless, because who has time to perfect pastry amongst the stress and commotion of the holidays? Spinach and tomato add the colors of the season.
Ingredients
2 tablespoons butter, softened
2 cups shredded cheese of your choice (my sons love gouda, cheddar, and havarti)
6 large eggs
3 cups whole milk
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
4 tablespoons butter, chilled and chopped
1/4 cup sun-dried tomatoes, finely chopped
1/4 cup fresh spinach, chiffonaded (sliced into thin strips)
Preparation
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Generously butter two 8-inch pie pans (use glass pie pans if possible). Sprinkle one-half cup of cheese into each pie pan to cover the bottom of the pan.
In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, salt, pepper and nutmeg until well blended. Add the sun-dried tomatoes and spinach, blending well to thoroughly incorporate and distribute the vegetables.
Fill each pie pan with the egg mixture to within 1/4 inch of the top. Sprinkle the remaining cheese onto each pie pan, then top with dots of butter. Bake for 30 minutes or until golden and the top of the quiche springs back when touched.
This article about Christmas brunch recipes was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
The Yule Goat signals the start of the holidays in Scandinavian countries (including Sweden, Norway and Finland) and some communities stateside with the building of the Gävle Goat in Sweden.
The plaited straw Yule Goat trimmed with red ribbons comes in all sizes, from palm-sized ornaments to the gigantic 42.6 tall, 3.6 ton Gävle Goat.
Find out more about this seasonal tradition…
Labor of Love
Construction of the Gävle Goat begins on the first day of Advent and takes 1,000 man-hours to complete. The materials are as impressive as the labor needed to build it.
On average the city’s tourism board says the Gävle Goat requires:
50+ feet of rope
12,000 knots
3,937 feet of pine crate to create the skeleton
A truckload of straw
An estimated cost of $249,900 (based on 2016 estimates)
The tradition started in 1966, according to Gävle’s tourism board.
Stig Gavlén had a marketing idea—a supersized version of the beloved figure-sized Yule goat could be built to attract customers to the area shops and restaurants. It worked locally and has gained world-wide renown, attracting 42,000 visitors in 2015 alone.
The intent is to leave the goat on display until New Year’s Day. But watching to see if the goat lasts until New Years has become an integral part of the ritual.
To date, it has been hit by a car, run through with a stake and suffered several fires. Kidnappings have also been planned. To date, only about half of Gävle Goats built since 1966 have survived the entire holiday season.
Ancient Roots
Much of the Yule goat’s origin has been lost in time. It is tied to the ancient pagan festivals that celebrated the Norse god Thor, who traveled by flying chariot pulled by two goats—Tanngrisnir (Gap-Tooth) and Tanngnjóstr (Tooth-Grinder).
The chariot delivered food for the god and his friends. Thor repeatedly slaughtered and ate the goats (they were returned to life the next morning).
In ancient midwinter celebrations, a man dressed in goatskins and wearing a mask to portray Tanngrisnir and Tanngnjóstr visited houses in Sweden and was symbolically killed but returned to life, exactly as the sun does at Yule.
Christian fathers disapproved of the pagan merriment and branded the (“Yule goat”) a demon.
Swedish records dating to the 17th century depict a gloomier version of the Yule goat—one that visited houses to steal food and play pranks. Over time he evolved into a compassionate figure and gave gifts rather than claiming them.
Another theory is that it was once affiliated with Indo-European harvest celebrations. According to the Carnegie Museum of Natural History, “ The last sheaf of grain bundled was believed to contain the spirit of the harvest and was saved for Yule celebrations—many early European customs included harvest gods that looked like goats. Farmers often referred to their bundles as goats because of the resemblance.”
Regardless of its beginnings and evolution through time, the Yule goat has become a permanent representation of the annual holiday festivities around the world.
And through the exchange of cultural traditions, the Yule goat has even made its way to the U.S.
A smaller-scale version of the Gävle Goat has sporadically appeared in small Wisconsin communities since the mid-1800s. The Old World Wisconsin outdoor museum built and featured Yule goats in at least two of its annual events.
Want to get involved with the custom? It’s also possible to build your own Yule goat. Instructional videos on YouTube offer tips for building a skeleton, weaving straw and constructing a replica (size of your choosing) on your farm.
