What is molting? Seasoned backyard chicken owners know when their flock experiences molting. But, if you’re a first-time backyard chicken owner, it can be startling to see your birds losing feathers in the fall. Molting is an interesting, yet natural, process that can also be very stressful to the animals. This article takes a deep dive into the process of molting and how poultry owners can help alleviate some of the associated stress for their beloved chickens.
What Is Molting?
Simply put, molting is a physiological process that occurs in avian species where they shed and replace their feathers. Molting is mainly regulated by various hormonal changes within the body and usually involves a period where the reproductive system stops.
During this time, birds typically lose and regrow their feathers in a gradient. They lose from the innermost feathers first to the outermost feathers last.
Why Molt?
The primary reason birds molt is to keep their feathers functioning well. Feathers play a very dynamic role in a chicken’s life. They help regulate temperature; protect birds from scratches, wounds and cannibalism; are used to communicate and attract a mate; and are indicators of a bird’s health.
Research has shown that molting can be beneficial to a chicken’s health and improve egg quality. Photoperiod-induced molting has been shown to increase livability in laying hens (Brake and Thaxton, 1982) and to improve egg production and egg quality (Koelkebeck and Anderson, 2007).
The reduction or pausing of egg production gives a hen’s reproductive tract time to rejuvenate, resulting in stronger eggs and better production. Plus, without molting, a bird’s lack of feather shedding and regrowth would lead to poor plumage, which is associated with fearfulness and stress and chickens.
When Does Molting Occur?
Avian species typically molt during any time they require a healthy plumage, such as breeding season, wintertime or migration. The time of the year in which a molt occurs can help determine if it is related more to a natural molting or can be attributed to stress.
Natural molt in chickens occurs seasonally, during the fall, where the primary trigger is a reduction in day length. This decrease in day length changes the bird’s circadian rhythm, which triggers a variety of physiological processes such as reduced reproductive function and molting of feathers. In migratory birds, it would increase fattening and induce some restlessness. On the flip side, in the spring, when day length gets longer, the reproductive tract increases egg production and therefore we don’t typically see chickens molt.
So, a strong relationship exists between molting, day length and egg production. In fact, ducks and chickens that have been sterilized tend to stay in an extended state of molt. When sex hormones are supplemented, however, molting stops.
Broody hens can also experience a natural molt. When a hen becomes broody (starts to sit and incubate her eggs), she typically reduces her feed and water intake. Research on broody jungle fowl hens found that hens consumed very little food or water during this time even if it was offered near the nest. (Weight loss and anorexia during incubation in birdsJournal of Comparative and Physiological Psychology, 1980, Sherry et al.).
The lack of egg laying and voluntary anorexia results in shedding and replacement of feathers, suggesting broody hens can also experience a molt. Once chicks hatch, a broody jungle fowl hen will resume eating and drinking, and her feathers will grow back.
Stress-related molt occurring at other times of the year can be associated with inadequate nutrient intake or severe stress. Molt can also be induced with water and feed restriction, which is why we may see some molting during the summer.
Flock Assistance
Support your flock during their annual molt with the following tips.
More Protein
Feed more protein, especially sources rich in cysteine. Feathers are made up of about 80 percent protein and represent about 3 to 6 percent of a chicken’s total body weight.
Proteins are made of building blocks known as amino acids. Cysteine is typically the most limited amino acid during feather synthesis so supplementation can help speed up feather regrowth. Cysteine is also important because it forms bonds within the feathers that make them durable and resistant to wear and tear.
Support Digestion & Immunity
Typically, issues in feather quality at any time of the year are often the result of a poor diet or lack of nutrient utilization. Ensuring molting chickens can digest and absorb the nutrients they need for feather regrowth is key.
Molting has also been shown to suppress the immune system in chickens and is associated with an increase in pathogenic bacteria, such as salmonella. Providing molting birds with supplements that strengthen the immune system and support the digestive tract can ensure they remain healthy during this stressful period.
Comfort Is Key
Make them comfortable and reduce stress. During feather regrowth, a chicken’s skin becomes more sensitive. This sensitivity typically peaks at eight to 11 days after the start of a molt. Plus, molting is a time when chickens are more vulnerable and, in some breeds, this can lead to more aggression and stress.
We can help reduce stress by minimizing handling during molt to help limit injury and discomfort, and continuing to provide care like offering fresh water and feed even if they aren’t consuming a lot. Plus, if you notice a molting hen getting picked on, isolating her from the flock can help prevent further injury.
That’s molting in a nutshell. When your flock molts this year to replace damaged or broken feathers for their protection and health, hopefully, you feel better equipped to support them so they are revitalized and stronger for the months ahead.
Mikayla Baxter, Ph.D., is the Digestive Health Products Manager at Perdue Animal Nutrition. This article about what is molting originally appeared in the Sept./Oct. 2023 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
How to harvest lemongrass and even how to grow it are common questions for gardeners since lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) is not native to the United States, rather, it is a culinary and medicinal herb native to Southern India and Sri Lanka. While there are 55 varieties of lemongrass, only two are used in cooking: East Indian Lemongrass (also known as Cochin or Malabar Grass) and West Indian Lemongrass. It’s commonly cultivated in the Southeast Asian countries of Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos for use in curries, soups, salads and other regional dishes, but the essential oil can be extracted for use in soaps, lotions, perfumes and deodorants, as well.
Fast-growing and easy to care for, the herb can be a delightful addition to your kitchen garden or home landscape. Here’s what you need to know to get started.
Basic Lemongrass Growing Tips
In the garden, lemongrass usually grows 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, but in tropical areas, it can grow to as tall as 9 feet. As a tropical grass, it’s hardy to USDA hardiness zones 10 to 11, though the roots may be hardy to zone 8. In cooler growing zones, lemongrass is often grown as an annual or can be overwintered indoors in pots.
Growing Requirements
Lemongrass prefers fertile, loose, well-drained loam soil that is moist but not too wet. It will tolerate average soil if it has enough moisture and good drainage, but does best in soil with a pH of 6 to 7.8. Site it in a location with full sun or at least 6 hours of sun per day.
Like other grasses, lemongrass needs great deal of nitrogen. During the growing season, feed it a half-strength solution of a balanced soluble fertilizer—once per week if in a pot and once per month if in the ground. Non-chemical fertilizers that are high in nitrogen include composted chicken manure, blood meal and feather meal.
Limited Pest and Disease Risks
Because of its high essential-oil concentration, lemongrass is generally pest-free and, in fact, is commonly used as an ingredient in natural insect repellents. Once established, it also outcompetes weeds, though young plants may still require some weeding. Grown indoors, lemongrass is occasionally susceptible to spider mites, though overall, you’ll find this a delightful, easy plant to keep.
foam/Flickr
How to Harvest Lemongrass Stalks
Lemongrass is harvested for both the stalk and foliage. You can begin harvesting lemongrass as soon as the plant is about a foot tall. Cut, twist or break off a stalk that is at least 1/4 inch thick. The most tender part is at the bottom, so remove it as close to the ground as possible. Once you have harvested the number of stalks you want, remove the woody outer portion and the leaves. Save the leaves to dry, or compost them. Slice the tender part of the stalk, and add as needed to your recipe. Extra lemongrass can be refrigerated or frozen.
How to Harvest Lemongrass at the End-of-Season
In colder regions where lemongrass is grown as an annual, harvest the remainder plant in the fall, before the first frost sets in. Cut the foliage down to the lighter-colored stalks, and then cut or break them off, discarding the roots and any discolored portions.
Preserving Lemongrass
If you harvest more lemongrass than you need for one recipe or you have an ample supply leftover from an end-of-season harvest, you can freeze or dry the stalks and leaves for use throughout the winter.
Freezing Lemongrass Stalks
Lemongrass stalks can be frozen whole or in smaller pieces for about 6 months. For easy use in cooking, portion out the stalks in amounts that you’d use them in your favorite recipes. Place them in a freezer bag or container labeled with the date and amount stored.
Drying Lemongrass Stalks and Leaves
To dry the stalks or leaves, cut them into pieces while the plant is still fresh, as they can become crumbly and difficult to cut when dry. Separate the leaves from the stalks, and lay them on paper towels or on a screen in a dry area out of direct sun. When completely dry, store in a jar in a cool, dark place. Dried lemongrass can be used for up to a year.
Inga Munsinger Cotton/Flickr
Tips for Using Lemongrass
You’ll have just about as much fun using your lemongrass as you will growing it. Here are some suggestions for making it a staple in your kitchen.
Lemongrass tea: This is the perfect way to use the parts of the lemongrass plant that is not flavorful enough for cooking. Steep a few pieces (cut into 1- or 2-inch lengths) of the fresh or dried leaves and/or outer woody stalks in a cup of boiling water for 5 minutes, or longer if you desire a stronger brew. Add honey or sugar to taste. Lemongrass tea is delicious hot or iced.
Ginger substitute: Substituting lemongrass for ginger will result a milder flavor profile for any dish.
Salad topping or garnish: Mince the more tender pieces of the stalk for this purpose.
Lemon juice substitute: Lemongrass can be used in cream sauces in place of lemon juice, without the risk of the sauce curdling.
Seasoning for broths, sauces and other dishes: Lemongrass stalks or leaves can be added to any dish that would be enhanced by a mild, lemony flavor. Use it the way a bay leaf would be used, and remove prior to serving.
CIFOR/Flickr
Medicinal Uses of Lemongrass
Lemongrass is regarded in herbal medicine as a diuretic, mild sedative, anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, stomachic, anti-parasitical and anti-microbial. Both the whole herb and the extracted essential oil have been traditionally used to treat:
stress
colds
headaches
circulatory problems
sore throats
bacterial infections
Lemongrass is also used in natural deodorants and insect repellents.
Winter Care of Lemongrass
As a tender, tropical plant, lemongrass will not survive cold temperatures outdoors. It may be treated as an annual, or overwintered indoors. If you’ve grown lemongrass in the ground, you can dig it up before the first frost, cut back the foliage and stalks to just a few inches tall, and plant it in one large pot or into several smaller pots. Keep your potted lemongrass as a houseplant near a bright, sunny window, ideally with southern exposure; in a heated greenhouse; or under artificial lights.
Indoor lemongrass plants will benefit from regular feedings every two weeks, as they will quickly use up the nutrients in the potting soil. Keep the plants moist, but do not overwater them, as potted plants are subject to root rot if the soil remains soggy. The plants can be put back in the ground after the danger of frost has passed.
Propagating Lemongrass
If you want to increase your lemongrass supply or simply start over production in the spring, you can propagate the plant from a stalk harvested from a plant or purchased from a grocery store or Asian market. Cut the leaves down to about 1 inch above the base of the stalk, and place it in a dish or glass of fresh water—roots do not need to be attached. Set the dish near a sunny window, and change the water daily. After a few days, your stalk should begin to grow roots. In two weeks, if you see good root growth, plant it in soil either outdoors or in a pot.
This article about how to harvest lemongrass was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Raising baby chickens in the fall is not always top of mind. Springtime is synonymous with babies. As temperatures rise, days get longer and animals get frisky. Broody hens spend more time sitting on their eggs and cheeping chicks start showing up in feed-supply stores. It’s no surprise that spring is also the season when most people start their flocks. But a growing number of chicken keepers are adding fall flocks to their farms.
“Spring is such a popular time, but more people are experimenting with fall flocks,” says Kendra Higgins, director of marketing for Meyer Hatchery and host of The Coop Podcast.
Are you thinking about adding (more) chickens? You don’t have to wait until spring. Consider these six reasons to start a fall flock.
1. Double the Babies
Chicks are hard to resist. The same downy feathers, tiny beaks and little cheeps that make chicks Instagram sensations may also tug at your heartstrings.
And adding a fall flock means all of that cuteness isn’t limited to a single season. You can cuddle chicks and watch them grow twice a year.
British researchers found that watching cute animals reduces stress and anxiety. Who doesn’t want to lower their cortisol levels while raising babies that will eventually provide breakfast?
2. Better Selection
Is your heart set on a Buff Orpington, Rhode Island Red or Australorp? Do you want chickens that lay blue, green or pink eggs? You might be out of luck in the springtime.
Higgins notes that certain breeds (or breeds that produce certain egg colors) are most in demand in the spring when every established flock-raiser and wannabe chicken keeper calls in their orders to hatcheries.
Demand has been especially high during the pandemic, making it even more difficult to order spring chicks. Fall ordering is less frenzied.
“Hatcheries get swamped and run out of a lot of breeds,” says Lisa Steele, creator of the website Fresh Eggs Daily and author of Fresh Eggs Daily: Raising Happy, Healthy Chickens Naturally. “Hatcheries realized if they started opening up to fall ordering, people who couldn’t get the breeds they wanted in the spring … had a better chance of getting them in the fall.”
A better selection of breeds could lead to some unfortunate “chicken math” and a flock that isn’t the right fit for your farm or family.
“In the fall, if you’re finding availability, it can be even more exciting,” Higgins says. “Make sure you’re asking questions about whether it’s a breed you really want. Is it a breed that’s also family-friendly? Is it a breed that lays the color of eggs [you want]? Or even the number of eggs …? Is that a breed that you’re going to like?
“Asking all of those questions and really factoring in what works best for you will make you a lot happier with the flock that you end up with.”
It’s true that there might be fewer people clamoring to order cheeping chicks in the fall. But less demand also means hatcheries are hatching a smaller number of chicks, so selection isn’t guaranteed.
3. Bolster Flock Numbers
Illness and predators mean flock numbers can tend to fluctuate. And some of the chicks you ordered in the spring may not be part of the flock by fall.
New chicken keepers are often surprised at the number of predators in their yards. They might underestimate the need for a super secure coop to protect their hens, which leads to unexpected losses.
Those who purchased just a few birds might find themselves down to a single hen at the end of the season. But you don’t have to make a lone remaining hen wait until next spring to be part of a flock again.
Raising baby chickens in the fall helps rebuild the flock.
Adding to the flock in the fall is also common among those who sell eggs for local markets and need a certain number of hens in their flocks to keep up with demand.
4. Spring Eggs
Next spring, when other flock-raisers are just setting up their brooders and welcoming new chicks to the farm, the chicks you in the fall will already be laying eggs.
You might also get more eggs from fall-hatched chicks. The reason is that chicks purchased in the spring don’t start laying until the fall. Just as their reproductive systems kick into high gear, the days get shorter. This sends the signal that it’s time to slow down egg production through the winter.
In contrast, chicks hatched in the fall shift into maximum production in the spring, laying almost one egg per day (depending on the breed).
“If you get [chicks] in the fall, they are maturing through the early part of the winter and might put off laying a little bit longer. But when they start laying in the spring, the prime laying season, they are going to be ready to go,” Steele says.
Higgins adds that adding chicks in the fall could also prevent you from keeping the coop lit for sustained egg production.
“For those that don’t like to keep the lights on in their coop to try to force the chickens into continuous laying, if you like that natural slowdown, staggering your new additions in your flock by adding some [chicks] in the spring and some in the fall typically will get you year-round production without the added light source,” she says.
5. Delayed Molting
Every year, chickens shed their old feathers and grow new ones. Breed and age determine molting patterns, but biology plays a role, too. Chickens only molt after laying a certain number of eggs. (This prevents molting from robbing hens of the energy needed for egg production).
Fall flocks start laying full force in the spring. But they might not molt until the following year, skipping the midsummer pause in laying to accommodate molting. This is common for spring-hatched chicks.
Special Considerations for Raising Baby Chickens in the Fall
While there are compelling reasons to add chicks to the flock—or start a new flock—in the fall, a late-season flock requires a few special considerations.
Hatchery Requirements
Hatcheries require higher minimum orders in the cooler months. “Our minimum order is three chicks in the warmer months, and it goes up to eight chicks in the colder months,” Higgins explains. “Obviously, the more chicks, the better the body heat [is].”
In the fall, the hatchery ships chicks with heat packs and, depending on temperatures, may add an extra layer of foam to the boxes for added warmth.
Brood Time
Cooler temperatures in the fall may also mean that chickens need to stay in their brooder for longer periods, especially in states with harsher climates. This is one of the biggest reasons Steele, who raises chickens in Maine, prefers spring chicks to fall flocks.
“Wherever you live, you need to count back from before your last frost date—or even before your last frost date when your nights start getting down to 40 or 45 degrees [Fahrenheit]—to make sure your chicks are going to be eight to 12 weeks old and have all of their feathers before they go outside,” Steele says.
“You don’t want to be stuck with chickens in the house … until spring. I wouldn’t be comfortable putting three 8-week-old chicks outside when it’s 10 degrees ….”
Choose breeds such as Golden Comets, Rhode Island Reds and Delawares that mature at 16 to 20 weeks old rather than slower-growing breeds such as the Brahma that might not mature (and be ready for cool temperatures) until they are 24 weeks old.
Integration Concerns
Integrating fall-hatched chicks into existing flocks can also be a little more difficult in the fall.
“In the summer, we typically recommend putting chicks outside with a divider [between the new chicks and the existing flock]. Or, if you have a small flock, you could even use a dog crate so the two flocks can see each other but can’t reach each other,” Higgins says. “You’ll still want to do that in the winter. But sometimes your coop size can deter just how much freedom you have in that setup.”
Because there are additional considerations associated with establishing a flock in the fall, Steele believes these late-season additions may not be right for novice flock raisers. “The more experience you have raising chickens, the easier it’ll be to raise a fall flock,” she says.
Remember, chicks aren’t the only option for fall flocks. You can also consider adding flocks of ducklings and goslings during this season. Ducklings and goslings are hardier than chicks, more cold-tolerant and feather out faster. These traits make them well-suited to going from the brooder to the coop in cooler weather.
Will you add chicks in the spring or fall—or both? Whatever you decide,you’ll benefit from adorable babies, feathered friends and amazing eggs.
Does Raising Baby Chickens in Fall Equal Bigger Eggs?
There are no scientific studies comparing how eggs sizes differ between spring- and fall-hatched flocks. But Lisa Steele cites anecdotal evidence that fall flocks might have an edge.
“Fall chicks tend not to lay those little fairy eggs [because] they wait a little bit longer to start laying,” she says. “Instead of waiting until 18 or 20 weeks to start laying, it might be 24 weeks or 26 weeks so they’ll start off laying full-sized eggs.”
This article about raising baby chickens in the fall originally appeared in the September/October 2021 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Types of manure on a farm raising animals, even a small farm, can be varied and plentiful. There are lots of advantages for gardens, pastures, fields or lawns. However, not all manure has the same makeup or can be used in the same ways. Some manures must be composted to prevent burning plants due to high nitrogen levels; some can be used right away and some are a matter of heated debate amongst farmers and experts in organic farming.
What is Manure?
While this may seem like a simple question, manure, compost and fertilizer are often used interchangeably. They are not the same things.
Fertilizer is an additive that increases nutrition and may improve the soil. Compost can be a type of fertilizer, as can certain types of manure. However, there are also chemical fertilizers.
Compost is a mixture of biodegradable substances, mainly including vegetable matter and sometimes including shellfish remnants or manure to make a healthier mix. Decomposition and time should cause the mix to become very hot, killing any harmful substances in the mix and allowing the final product to be used as a fertilizer. Most compost takes at least a year to make without special equipment, in order to ensure it is safe to use.
Manure is the feces that comes directly from an animal. Not all manure is considered safe for use, and even as high-quality compost, animal dung from cats, dogs and humans is rarely used because of the risk of pathogens.
Types of Manure: Cold
Cold manure is dung that is safe to put directly onto plants without harming the vegetation. These are usually the pelleted manures, such as goat, rabbit and sheep. Resources will vary as to whether it is the physical or nutritional makeup that makes these cold manures safer for plants, but their nutrients release into the soil more slowly. This gives the vegetation a “time release” dose and protects the plants from burning.
There are still some issues with direct use of cold manure, however. The animals that produce cold manure are grazers and may have seeds in their dung, which can result in weeds or other unwanted vegetation in your garden. Ruminants digest their food multiple times, but certain pathogens can still survive in their stomachs or the stomachs of rabbits. This can pass through their systems, and if their manure is used cold, these pathogens can make their way from pastures to lawns and gardens where they may impact pets or humans. For this reason and others many organizations suggest even cold manure be composted before use. Organic farming certifications will actually require it.
Types of Manure: Hot
Hot manure is from animals such as chickens and pigs that have a high protein diet and produce manure high in phosphorus and nitrogen. Chicken manure is extremely nutritious for plants and often easily accessible to farmers, so it is one of the more commonly used manures. However, due to the nature of the stuff, pouring it directly onto plants will cause a literal “burning” of the vegetation and will damage or kill crops. Hence, the term “hot manure.”
To safely use chicken manure, it needs to be mixed with decomposing vegetable matter. The carbon this vegetation provides combines with nitrogen and phosphorus to produce a nutritious, safe mix. This is why animals are usually bedded with carbon-based substances. Straw, hay, shavings and other such floor coverings will mix with animal droppings and begin the composting process immediately – even before the farmer cleans things up.
Complicated Manure
The topic of manure is a more complicated one than it may seem on the surface and has changed over the last several decades. Older resources will disagree with modern ones about which animals have “cold” manure. Finding a correct balance of manure and nutrients to break down your animal waste is a scientific field that is constantly making new discoveries. The techniques behind “deep bedding” animal manure have changed over time as well. Even the term “hot” manure – for some farmers – has been used to discuss the amount of moisture in manure.
Many of these terms have been stabilized across the research arena – or are stabilizing. Therefore, when researching your types of manure and what to do with it, make certain to use modern resources and editions.
This post about types of manure was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.
Summer salad recipes from vintage cookbooks are fun because they include salads for every ingredient under the sun from apples to zucchini. Some recipes sound downright disgusting and others are tried and true winners, standing the test of time through the generations.
I’ve selected five summer salad recipes to share with you from a collection of cookbooks that came from my husband’s grandma who passed away just a couple of years ago. She was born in 1926 and I truly hold her collection of cookbooks near and dear to my heart, especially the recipes that have been marked up with notes.
Molded Tuna Salad
Ingredients
1 can tuna fish
6 tbsp. mayonnaise (sandwich spread)
1 tbsp. chopped onion
½ cup celery, chopped
1 package lemon Jello
Directions
Set Jello until jelly stage, add other ingredients; pour into mold and set in refrigerator until firm.
This interesting summer salad recipe was contributed by Mrs. Orrie Knutson. Shared from Hor d’oeurves Pickles ‘n Relishes cookbook.
Chicken Salad
Cut cold boiled chicken into small cubes; put them in a bowl and to each quart, allow a teaspoon of salt, a tablespoon of lemon juice or vinegar, a saltspoonful of black pepper; mix and stand aside until cold.
Cut two-thirds as much white celery into bits of the same size and stand it in a cold place until mixing time.
At serving time, mix the celery and chicken, cover thoroughly with mayonnaise, serve on lettuce, garnish with olives, capers and hard-boiled eggs.
This summer salad recipe has been shared from Everyday Recipes, 1930, The Wesson Oil People – New Orleans, LA.
Carrot Salad
Ingredients
6 cups sliced carrots
1 large green pepper, chopped
1 large onion sliced into rings
1 can tomato soup (10.5 ounces)
1 cup white granulated sugar
1 cup oil
¾ cup white vinegar
1 tbsp. salt and dry mustard
Directions
Cook carrots until fork tender, then combine with chopped pepper and onion rings.
In a separate bowl, blend tomato soup, sugar, oil, vinegar, salt and dry mustard into a sauce.
Pour over the vegetables and let stand in the refrigerator for 12 hours to marinate.
This summer salad recipe has been contributed by Mrs. Bill Feskorn of Houghton Lake, Michigan. Shared from the Pot Luck Cook Book, 1973.
Three Bean Salad
A popular potluck or buffet dish.
Ingredients
1 can green beans
1 can wax beans
1 can kidney beans
½ cup green onions, minced
½ cup green pepper, minced
¾ cup white granulated sugar
½ cup salad oil
½ cup cider vinegar
¼ tsp. pepper
¼ tsp. salt
Directions
Combine all ingredients. Refrigerate overnight.
This summer salad recipe has been shared by Gail Vaughan of Baytown, Texas. Shared from Aglow in the Kitchen, 1976.
Wilted Lettuce Salad
Serves: 8
Ingredients
5 slices bacon
2 hard-cooked eggs, chopped
2 heads leaf lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces
2 tbsp. chopped green onion or chopped chives
1 tbsp. white granulated sugar
½ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. pepper
¼ tsp. cider vinegar
2 tbsp. cold water
Directions
Fry bacon until crisp. Drain on paper toweling, reserving 2 tablespoons of drippings.
In a large serving bowl, combine lettuce, onion and chopped eggs.
Combine reserved 2 tablespoons of bacon drippings with remaining ingredients. Heat to just boiling. Pour over lettuce; toss lightly.
Garnish with crumbled bacon; serve immediately.
Tip: For an extra zippy salad, add ¼ teaspoon dry mustard with pepper.
If desired, crumbled bleu cheese over Italian seasonings may be sprinkled over salad before serving.
This recipe has been shared from Pillsbury’s Soup & Salad Cookbook, 1969.
This article about vintage summer salad recipes was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Set of dressings for salad. Adobe Stock/ricka_kinamoto
Salad dressing recipes from vintage cookbooks are so incredibly easy to make. Once you get the hang of mixing up your own, you won’t want those pre-made store-bought blends any longer.
Salad Dressing
1 cup tomato soup
¾ cup salad oil ½ cup white granulated sugar
½ cup white vinegar
1 tsp. prepared mustard
1 tsp. salt
1 medium onion, grated
1 tsp. celery seed
¼ tsp. paprika
Mix together all ingredients and store in the refrigerator.
This salad dressing recipe was contributed by Mrs. Paul Erickson. Shared from Hor d’oeurves Pickles ‘n Relishes cookbook.
French Dressing
Basic French Dressing should be made right at the table and served while it is freshly blended and most appetizing. With Wesson Oil and a dash of lemon juice and a few seasonings, it takes only a minute to whisk up a piquant French Dressing.
6 tbsp. Wesson Oil
2 tbsp vinegar or lemon juice
1 tsp. salt
¼ tsp. pepper
Dash of paprika
Pour the Wesson Oil and vinegar (or lemon juice) into a bowl, add dry ingredients and beat with a fork or an egg beater until thoroughly mixed.
This recipe has been shared from Everyday Recipes, 1930, The Wesson Oil People – New Orleans, LA.
Williamsburg Dressing
This is good over fruit or greens.
Ingredients
½ cup white vinegar
¼ cup white granulated sugar
¼ cup honey
1 tsp. dry mustard
1 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. celery seed
1 tsp. celery salt
1 tsp. onion juice
1 cup vegetable oil
Directions
Mix vinegar, sugar, honey, mustard and paprika and boil for 3 minutes. Stir and cool. Add remaining ingredients. Put in bottle and store in the refrigerator.
This salad dressing recipe has been shared by Glenda Woodington of Portsmouth, Virginia. Shared from Aglow in the Kitchen, 1976.
Green Goddess Dressing
All you need is some mayonnaise and sour cream with a few spices to make this pretty one! A great compliment to any vegetable salad.
Yield: 2 cups
Ingredients
½ cup to 1 cup mayo
½ cup sour cream
¼ cup chopped parsley
2 tablespoons chopped green onion
½ tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. minced garlic (or garlic powder)
1 tbsp. wine vinegar
½ to 1 can (2 oz) anchovy fillets, chopped if desired
Directions
In a small mixing bowl, combine all ingredients; mix well. Store covered in the refrigerator. Mix well before using.
Tip: To make in blend, combine all ingredients Process on medium speed, scraping sides occasionally until smooth. If desired, 1-2 tablespoons anchovy paste may be used in place of the fillets.
This recipe has been shared from Pillsbury’s Soup & Salad Cookbook, 1969.
Yogurt Coleslaw Dressing
Yield: 1.5 cups
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 cup yogurt
½ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. dry mustard
Dash of pepper
Combine all ingredients, stir well. This makes enough dressing to cover 3 cups of shredded cabbage. Refrigerate until use.
This salad dressing recipe has been contributed by Irene (Koller) Rudy. Shared from the 100th Wedding Anniversary of Aleida and Michael Wetzstein II.
This story about salad dressing recipes was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Can rabbits and chickens live together? In the world of livestock, chickens are the easiest animal to raise on the farm or homestead and usually the starting point for most homesteaders. One other homestead animal that rivals the chicken in ease of care is the rabbit.
In general, rabbit care is quite easy, and we’ll explore the details of tending to these adorable critters in this article. The good news is that chickens and rabbits can—and often do—cohabitate on a homestead harmoniously. With a few precautions, of course, you can reap the rewards of caring for both on your land.
Plucky Personalities
At the risk of sounding obvious, remember that chickens are birds, and rabbits are part of the animal family logomorpha. (They were previously considered rodents, but that was updated in 1912). This quite simply means that the needs of these two species are different—sometimes very different. While they can live together copacetically, we must never forget that they have different instincts, behaviors and social structures, and this fact alone will determine how we best care for them.
With that said, there is one very distinct difference and one very important similarity between the two upon which we can base most of our decisions. The difference is that unless they’re mating or raising a litter, rabbits are mostly solitary animals.
Does (females) and bucks (males) left together will mate constantly, so the two must be kept separate until you are ready and able to prepare for kits (young bunnies). A pair or trio of just does, or just bucks, might coexist happily if raised together as kits and as long as the does aren’t raising a litter of kits themselves.
Chickens, on the other hand, are very social and must be kept in family groups—flocks—or they’ll be terribly unhappy. Typically, a flock comprises a number of hens, with or without a single rooster. Roosters also mate daily with hens, but because hens lay eggs (and presumably you collect them daily), chicks won’t hatch unless you let a broody hen sit on fertilized ones for 21 days or you raise the eggs in an incubator.
The big similarity between rabbits and chickens? They are both vulnerable prey animals, with comparatively few defenses. This is an absolute that we can always assume, and it will serve you, the keeper, well. Bank on the fact that they will be hunted by any and all predators in your area, and they know this, so they act accordingly. This is quite possibly the fact that most informs the behavior of chickens and rabbits. Why is this so important when it comes to rabbit care? How they respond to stress or fear is how they react to you, and that determines how we provide rabbit care, protection and housing.
Can Rabbits and Chickens Live Together? A Hutch Is a Home
Like chickens, rabbits require specific housing that meets their needs. You might notice many chicken coops and rabbit hutches are sold by manufacturers interchangeably, and admittedly one could sub for the other in a pinch. On our homestead, we’ve used a rabbit hutch as temporary housing for a sick or injured hen, and even a broody hen; this is certainly a pro to keeping both species.
If you already keep chickens, you know that a predator-proof coop is an absolute must. A locking door with a latch that is secured at night, a solid roof, hardware cloth mesh across doors and windows, and good ventilation are but a few undeniable requirements of a good coop. And you can apply all of those features to a rabbit hutch as well.
If you plan to have a doe raise kits, you’ll even want her to have a nest box. A big difference between chickens and rabbits regarding the coop is that chickens roost at night up high while rabbits’ instincts tell them to burrow low. You can also count on rabbits and chickens depositing their waste in a predictable place: Chickens usually defecate the most at night, while roosting. Rabbits pick a favorite spot, either in the hutch or in their own run, to do their business. This predictability helps with our cleanup efforts, too.
So when considering can rabbits and chickens live together, where do we begin constructing housing? What should we look for? When shopping for or devising plans to build a rabbit hutch or a chicken coop, look at how each is made. Notice the differences: You’ll see how each is designed with the instincts of the animal in mind.
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Hutches are typically raised off the ground to keep rabbits safe from predators. The flooring is part solid and part mesh. With furry, padded feet, rabbits fare better on mesh flooring than their poultry counterparts, which are more prone to foot ailments as time goes on. But they also need something solid upon which to rest those feet and to give them the sense of security similar to a dark burrow.
Chickens and rabbits have incredibly sensitive respiratory systems, and rabbit urine is particularly caustic. If the hutch is located within a closed barn or larger chicken coop, excellent ventilation (and consistent cleaning) must be one of your top priorities.
Once the fundamental physical needs of each separate animal are met, it’s important to consider the behavioral needs. Rabbits need to retreat to a dark, cozy space that is private and safe. But they also love to stretch their legs and frolic. How can you best meet those needs in your setup and also accommodate your chickens? Much depends on your own homestead and the structures you work with, but remember that proper rabbit care requires a safe haven. They should have the freedom to move but accessibility to their own hutch to hide at all times.
Nutrition Basics
Now, let’s talk food. Remember that we’re blending species from different walks of life, artificially, on the same land. While ground fowl and wild hares forage for their meals, what they forage for is sometimes quite different. Chickens left to free-range look for the juiciest, tastiest, bounciest bugs; as omnivores, chickens forage for a fair amount of animal protein in addition to the greens they seek on pasture. Rabbits, on the other hand, are strictly herbivores. They eat mostly grasses, seeds and fruits.
The domesticated versions of these animals naturally require different diets, too. What we feed them is determined by their life stage and circumstances. Domesticated chickens are often fed a commercial ration designed for their needs: young chicks, meat birds and laying hens have slightly different nutritional requirements and must be fed accordingly.
On a perfect homestead, the flock has unlimited access to rotating pasture lands that make up the bulk of their diet. Treats are offered in moderation, and supplements, such as oyster shells for the extra calcium that laying hens require, plus grit, for helping to break up predigested food, are at the ready.
Nearly all domesticated rabbits, whether raised for fiber, meat or as pets, can be fed roughly the same commercial ration: a high-quality pelleted feed designed for rabbits. As with all animals, variety is a key to optimum health, so supplement that feed with daily greens (such as lettuce), unlimited Timothy hay availability, and a few fruits and other treats in moderation. If you raise rabbits for meat, you’ll probably want to be choosy with the quality of feed and supplements you offer; you are what your animal eats, after all.
There’s one more important element of rabbit care to discuss. Like cats, rabbits continually groom themselves, and, also like cats, they ingest a bit of their own fur. Unlike cats, however, rabbits are not capable of coughing up any ingested fur that gets stuck or blocked in the form of a hairball. This is one of the main considerations of care for your rabbits, and many rabbit-keepers utilize dried pineapple and papaya fruits as a supplement to aid their rabbits in passing the excess fur.
Blockages can happen quickly and be quite dangerous, so having these supplements on hand at all times is a wise preparation. Pineapple and papaya fruits contain enzymes that help rabbits break down the fibers of their own fur—helping it to pass successfully. Many times, rabbits prefer the dried version (without sugar, of course), and it keeps longer, too. If you raise rabbits for fiber, this is doubly important—as is a good grooming routine on your part. The animals’ having access to Timothy hay daily will help here as well.
Most importantly, chicken and rabbit food should be kept separate and only accessible to the species it is meant for. One way you can manage this is by keeping the chicken feed suspended in a hanging feeder, at the height accessible for adult poultry. Water should not be shared between the species, so keep these fonts separate and only accessible to the animal it is meant for.
Health Considerations
It’s lovely and idyllic to imagine frolicking rabbits and sweetly clucking hens coexisting in a seeming homestead utopia, but there are health risks to keeping these two species together. Pasteurella multocida, streptococcosis, coccidiosis and, most concerning, salmonella, represent the highest possibilities of sharing disease between species. Salmonella, particularly, can make your rabbits very sick. Chickens will probably defecate in the rabbit’s food or water at some point if kept housed together, so smart setups and cleanliness are critical to keep disease at bay.
When thinking about can rabbits and chickens live together, remember that flocks of ground fowl and burrowing animals behave very differently. Chickens might see a wayward rabbit as a threat (especially a fast, jumpy rabbit) and might attempt to harm it or drive it away. Chickens can be quite brutal to outsiders or anything they perceive as a threat, and it’s possible that a flock could kill a rabbit. Smaller pet rabbits (vs. large meat breeds) are particularly at risk here and should always have a safe place separate from the chickens—if they’re not housed separately all the time. No matter your setup, rabbits should be kept separate from very small, fragile chicks.
As sweet as it seems, allowing rabbits to pasture is not the same as allowing chickens to graze untethered. A flock of chickens always comes home to roost and does it so predictably that you can set your clock by it.
Rabbits, on the other hand, are not so reliable, and if you leave them to free-range you might find yourself chasing unhappy rabbits at dusk every night. These behavioral tendencies are worth considering as you set up housing. Most rabbit hutches are open along the bottom, allowing access to grass below. Much like a chicken tractor, you can move this hutch daily to give your rabbits ample time on grass.
A fenced run could also be extended from the rabbit hutch and might or might not include the chickens while grazing. As always, more space is better than less for chickens. But if you give rabbits more space than you have eyes to manage it, you might leave your bunnies susceptible to predator attacks or escaping the enclosure.
Always keep rabbits in some type of fenced enclosure, even while they’re ranging. One indisputable fact of both chicken and rabbit care: A high level of good hygiene on your part always benefits both species and drastically reduces chances of illness and the spread of disease.
When considering can rabbits and chickens live together in a cohabitation situation, weigh the pros and cons as well as the risks and benefits, and know your own homestead’s layout and where everything will fit before bringing home any animals. Only you know whether it will be successful or detrimental in your space. Follow the rules of nutrition basics and housing needs, always watch for predators, and you can successfully keep chickens and rabbits together for years to come.
Chicken & Rabbit Manure
As a fertilizer, chicken manure is “hot” and needs to break down before you use it in the garden. Rabbit manure, on the other hand, is “cool,” which is to say that it can go straight into the garden. Both manures make great supplements for gardening when composted correctly, such as a compost tea.
This story about can rabbits and chickens live together originally appeared in the January/February 2019 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Poultry showmanship is the culmination of a process that starts with good animal husbandry and hard work. Here are five tips to hone your skills.
New Poultry Showmanship Guidelines
A new guideline, however, is slowly changing the face of poultry showmanship across the country, making it more inclusive. Country fairs on the local and regional levels have begun to add an adult division, allowing participants ages 18 and older to compete in showmanship. This exciting development gives adults another poultry competition option at country fairs, which traditionally only permit seniors to exhibit birds.
Allowing adults to participate in showmanship also turns this into a family event, one that parents and children can enjoy together.
Not all local fairs offer this option for adults yet. 4-H, being geared specifically toward kids, will most likely restrict its competitive offerings to youth. If you are interested in having an adult poultry showmanship division at your fair, contact your fair office and ask for the contact information for the poultry superintendent. Reach out to the superintendent and explain how an adult showmanship division would not only benefit local poultry keepers and their families but also the fair itself. You never know what can happen until you try.
Whatever age the showmanship competitor in your household may be, keep these five pointers in mind to make the experience even more positive.
Befriend Your Show Chickens
Having all the poultry physiology knowledge in the world won’t help you if your cockerel or pullet is uncooperative. Showmanship birds are not only held, they’re manipulated and even turned upside down as you describe their anatomy to the judge.
Skittish, agitated show chickens will make showmanship competition almost impossible. It’s therefore crucial to befriend your bird from Day One.
Get your show chicken accustomed to your presence. Hold it, stroke its feathers, and talk to it. It’s vital that your bird become used to hearing your voice while in your arms. Once you’ve reached this stage, move on to gently turning your chicken tummy up, stroking its belly and speaking to it reassuringly. When your bird is comfortable with this type of handling, it’s time to start practicing your showmanship presentation with it—including placing it in and removing it from a show cage head first so that this routine becomes fluid and ingrained for both of you.
Study the Show Chicken Standards
Familiarize yourself with the American Poultry Association’s Standards of Perfection for your show chicken’s breed and variety. Learn to identify traits that are specific to your bird:
type of comb
color of earlobes, beak, eyes and shanks
number of toes
pattern and color of the feathers
size and hue of its eggs
average hen and rooster sizes and weights
breed’s temperament
other facts and information about the breed
If your show chicken deviates from any of the Standards, learn to identify these as well. When you are presenting to the judge, you will need to share all this information to demonstrate your knowledge of and familiarity with your chosen breed.
Interact with the Judge
Showmanship judges prefer competitors who can clearly and comfortably converse with them. A touch of nerves is understood, but totally freezing up and resorting to monosyllables is not (except perhaps from the youngest novice juniors). Be sure to make regular eye contact with your judge, stand comfortably, and speak in a clear, polite voice.
Regular practice in front of family and friends will help put you more at ease with your presentation. Have a loved one ask questions as you practice to better prepare you for competition day.
Dress to Impress
Even though the main point of showmanship is to demonstrate your poultry expertise, first impressions do set the tone for your presentation. A competitor dressed in blue jeans and a T-shirt will not impress the judges the same way as a neatly groomed presenter dressed in business-casual clothes topped with a white lab coat.
Many fairs and 4-H festivals require competitors to wear white lab coats, so it’s best to wear one—clean and neatly pressed—regardless of the event’s requirements.
And remember to wear clean footwear. You’re not expected to wear dress loafers or high heels at the fairgrounds, but don’t arrive wearing mud- and muck-spattered boots.
Self Improvement Is Key
Very few showmanship competitors receive perfect scores. Because of this, many judges will take time after the event to answer questions, offer advice, and give guidance to participants. After all, showmanship is about improving your poultry knowledge … and we all have room for improvement.
Take whatever post-event opportunity your judge offers to learn what you can do to improve your presentation and how you handle your bird. If your score was low, ask what mistakes you made and what the necessary corrections are. Some judges will offer this information to participants immediately following their presentation. Take notes if you can!
Remember above all that your judge’s critiques are meant to help you grow as a competitor and poultry specialist, not demoralize you. Thank them for their feedback on your show chickens and incorporate their suggestions to better prepare you for your next showmanship competition.
This article about poultry showmanship was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
A rum cooler is a popular and yummy drink made even better with homemade juice cubes. Made from your favorite juices, these cubes are a great way to preserve fresh juice in the form of ice cubes. These juice cubes can then be used to flavor water or your favorite fruity drink. This cocktail uses ice cubes made with fresh mint grown in the garden and the last watermelons of the season but it can be customized for individual tastes using other juice and herb combinations.
Homemade Juice Cubes
Juice Cube Ingredients
2½ cups watermelon chunks
15 fresh mint leaves
Juice Cube Preparation
Make the ice cubes at least six hours before you’re ready to use them in cocktails or other recipes. Feed the watermelon and the mint leaves into an electric juicer. Make sure to alternate between a few pieces of melon and a few mint leaves at a time. Stir the blended juice. Fill a standard 24-piece ice cube tray with the juice and freeze until firm.
Watermelon Rum Cooler Cocktail Recipe
Yield: 4 rum cooler cocktails
Rum Cooler Cocktail Ingredients
1 lime, quartered
20 fresh mint leaves
6 cups watermelon chunks, juiced (makes about 24 ounces)
4 ounces white rum
24 ounces of club soda
Rum Cooler Cocktail Preparation
Muddle one-quarter lime and five mint leaves in each of four 16-ounce pint glasses. Remove the mashed lime rind from the glasses. In each glass, pour in six ounces of watermelon juice and one ounce of white rum. Top it off with six ounces of club soda. Stir the ingredients a few times to mix. Add four juice cubes to each glass and serve immediately. Garnish the glass with a sprig of mint and slice of lime to add to a festive flair.
This watermelon rum cooler recipe made with homemade juice cubes was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Haying 2018, Massey Ferguson 135 tractor pulling a hay wagon.
Purchasing used farm equipment for sale can be a cost-effective strategy for hobby farmers looking to expand their capabilities without breaking the bank.
Used farm equipment for sale—even old equipment that is no longer cutting-edge—can perform admirably for years, especially if you take good care of it. But before you dive in and purchase the first machine you see listed in an online ad, let us help you make sound buying decisions by sharing five tips for purchasing used farm equipment:
#1 See the Equipment In Operation Before Purchasing
If purchasing from a private seller, try to schedule a visit to see the used equipment in operation before you commit to buying. Just because a machine was running fine when last used four years ago doesn’t mean it will still work after four years of aging/weathering/rusting. Request to see the main features in action; maybe you want to test the front-end loader of a tractor or see a hay baler tie a knot.
Seeing the equipment in operation also gives you a chance to examine it from all sides and check for general signs of age and wear, which might be more evident in person than in photos. You can also get an idea of whether the equipment has been stored under cover or out in the open.
#2 Determine If the Equipment Can Be Professionally Serviced
This will depend in large part on the age and brand of the equipment you’re purchasing, but if it’s possible to have used equipment professionally serviced in your area, that’s a nice positive. If you’re considering purchasing a 15-year-old John Deere garden tractor and there’s a John Deere dealer in your area that can service it, that’s a nice reassurance, particularly if you’re uncomfortable with DIY repairs.
#3 Check How Easily Replacement Parts Can Be Acquired
If you’re considering purchasing very old equipment—say, a hay rake or hay baler that is decades old—it’s worth researching the model number to determine how (or if) replacement parts can be purchased. Are there part numbers you can reference? Are some/all of the most important and/or delicate parts still manufactured? You might be surprised at how many obscure old parts can still be purchased, so long as you can figure out what you’re shopping for.
Also, can you acquire an instruction or service manual for the equipment? These old booklets can provide a wealth of information for troubleshooting any problems that arise.
#4 Consider Buying Equipment Similar to What You Already Own
Suppose you’ve used a particular piece of equipment for years, but now it’s suffered major damage and repairing it wouldn’t be cost-effective. If it’s a common model, and you like how it performs, you might consider replacing it with an identical model. Then your broken one can serve as a source of replacement parts for your new one.
#5 Go Bigger and Get a Warranty
While it’s tempting to hunt for deals from individual sellers, you should also consider purchasing from dealers that buy and sell used equipment on a regular basis, especially if it’s a pricier machine that you’ll use heavily. Such dealers may inspect and restore equipment, then offer a warranty to guarantee that the equipment will operate as intended for a certain period of time. You’ll pay more, of course, but if peace of mind is paramount it may be worthwhile.
By following these five tips for purchasing used farm equipment for sale, you’ll be well on your way to acquiring reliable machines that will suit your needs for years to come.
This article about how to purchase used farm equipment for sale was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
