Categories
Equipment

Drive-Through Farm Gates

Don’t get out of your toasty-warm truck to open that gate! Get a drive-through gate and make winter a bit more bearable.

In our family, John drives our vehicles and I man the passenger seat. As such, it’s my duty to hop out and open every gate we encounter.

It’s wearing, especially in foul weather, be it torrential rain, swirling snow or steamy, Southern heat. I think we need drive-through gates on our farm. Maybe you do, too.

Cattle Guards

The simplest drive-through gate and the most traditional is the cattle guard, an in- or close-to-the-ground device crafted of parallel rows of sturdy pipe spaced four inches apart and set to the width of an open gateway. Cattle guards are built wide enough to totally span the gateway in question (sometimes with the addition of wings) and are generally 8- to 14-feet long.

Cattle guards are built primarily to contain cattle. Deer often leap across them; horses sometimes try to ford them (injuring themselves in the process); and at least one group of clever British sheep learned to roll across them commando-style (“Crafty Sheep Conquer Cattle Grids”).

There are several types of cattle guards to choose from. Portable cattle guards are supported by springs so they lower to the ground when a vehicle passes over them, then spring back into position six inches above the ground.

Permanent units come in boxed and flat styles. Boxed guards sit directly on the ground; flat guards are placed atop shallow trenches.

Most cattle guards are built locally to order (ask your county extension agent for plans or download them free), but several major manufacturers market ready-made cattle guards as well.

Powder River builds the H-15, a flat-style cattle guard rated at 12 tons per axle, fitted with or without a built-in, three-rail, hinged cleanout section. Powder River also sells end-wing sets and locks for their cattle guards.

BarnWorld, the Farm and Ranch Superstore, markets a neat, portable ATV Cattle Guard crafted of 1 1⁄2-inch, 11-gauge tubing designed to lie directly on the ground, with no special installation needed. The company also offers flat- and box-style standard cattle guards built with or without removable boxes designed for easy cleaning.

Bump Gates

Inexpensive, farmyard bump gates are the essence of simplicity: an electrified polyethylene or fiberglass arm (or two, depending on the width of the opening) extends across an open gateway, bisecting two stretches of electric fencing; to open the gate from the cab of the truck or tractor, the operator gently bumps the arm, it swings open on pivot posts and the operator drives through; the gate closes smoothly behind him.

Ecklund Gates’ bump gates adjust to fit openings from 10- to 16-feet wide. While they’re designed for permanent installation, they can also be mounted on portable posts and moved from location to location. The body of an Ecklund Drive Through Gate is covered with rubber, so it’s soft to bump, and its patented Wind Gust Damper locks the gate shut quickly once the vehicle passes through.

Koehn Marketing’s Drive-Thru Electric Gate ships in adjustable 13- to 19-foot standard models and an ultra-wide 18- to 24-foot gate. Koehn bump gates’ flexible, polyethylene arms are designed to break away should they become snagged on a tractor or truck. Electrical yellow streamers dangling from the arms shock animals that attempt to pass through the closed gate.

Automatic Gate Openers

When most folks think of drive-through gates, they think of massive estate gates swinging wide at the press of a button. While most automatic gate-opener manufacturers build posh models, some design gates for everyday residential applications, too.

There are lots of good reasons for installing automatic security gates on your farm. In addition to saving immeasurable time and effort in opening manual gates, an automatic gate moves your first line of defense away from your home and out to the perimeter of your property. Your possessions will be safer, you’ll entertain fewer uninvited guests and unwelcome salespeople, and a stylish road gate adds flair (and value) to your farm.

Automatic gate openers come in two basic styles: swing gate and sliding gate openers. Swing gate openers are the classic choice. They come in one- and two-wing models; each wing hinges to an outside pivot point and is usually set to swing away, rather than toward the roadway. Single-wing gates are less costly than dual-wing models; they’re less expensive to install than sliding gates and most authorities think they’re safer (and easier to open), but they don’t work well on driveways with an upward incline.

Sliding gates are better when there’s limited room for swing gates to swing in a 90-degree arc. They’re also ideal for installation across driveways built on a sharp incline. Security experts say that locked sliding gates are more secure than swing gates because their weak points are generally less accessible and they hold up better if driven into.

Sliding gates come in track and cantilever models. Track gates slide along a metal rail embedded in the ground, whereas cantilever gates are suspended over the driveway on a post assembly. Whichever style you prefer, keep these points in mind when choosing an automatic gate opener:

  • Shop for a gate with sensors (photobeams) that halt or reverse the gate if an object or person gets in the way.
  • Look for a gate equipped with a backup battery pack or a manual, “fail-safe” system so the gate can be opened during a power failure.
  • For added safety and security, make certain its control panel cabinet is lockable.
  • A plus: A gate with warning lights alerts anyone near the gate of impending movement.
  • Opt for access control features that suit your needs: keypads, card readers, radio receivers and telephone access are a few of the usual options.
  • Choose a model that has been safety-tested by Underwriters Laboratories (UL) and/or Electrical Testing Laboratories (ETL).
  • Keep in mind that the location and climate where the gate is installed and the material and structure of each gate combine to create a unique situation particular to each automatic gate opener application. It’s always best to discuss your needs with a qualified dealer before selecting a make or model.

Electric Gate Openers

There are hundreds of electric gate openers on the market; some of the best are manufactured by GTO/PRO and sold under their GTO/PRO and Mighty Mule labels.

The difference: a licensed electrician or skilled do-it-yourselfer should install some (though not all) GTO/PRO gate openers, while Mighty Mule installations are specifically designed with the typical home handyman in mind. GTO/PRO manufactures a wide range of commercial and residential gate openers in both swing- and sliding-gate styles, most of which are solar-compatible.

GTO/PRO’s PRO-SW1500 and Mighty Mule 350 gate openers, for example, are specifically designed for rural applications; both handle swing-style farm gates weighing up to 350 pounds with ease. These gates work on easy-to-install, one-piece, low-voltage systems and are ideal for solar applications. They provide up to 175 open-close cycles per day and up to 1,500 backup cycles on a fully charged battery.

GTO/PRO’s Mighty Mule 500 Single Gate Opener is America’s No. 1 do-it-yourself gate opener. It neatly manages swing gates weighing up to 850 pounds and up to 18 feet in length. The Mighty Mule 500 incorporates such high-end features as commercial-grade Soft Start/Soft Stop and an extra-large control box pre-wired for an optional second battery. Like all of the Mighty Mules, it comes with a detailed manual and video that makes installation a breeze.

Turnstyle Enterprises, on the other hand, manufactures a new type of automatic gate opener based on the company’s patented Turnstyle Gate Remote Power Actuation System.

This revolutionary system utilizes an integrated mounting post and power activator that delivers rotational movement of the mounting post itself. Due to this arrangement, the force required to open or close the gate is minimal, so the Turnstyle power actuator is smaller and consumes less energy than most conventional gate openers.

The company builds powered and manual units in both pillar-mount and ground-mount configurations.

Hydraulic Gate Openers

While most hydraulic gate openers are engineered for heavy-duty commercial applications, some manufacturers build residential units as well. One of the beauties of easy-maintenance, hydraulic gate openers is that they have no external moving parts; since these openers are self-contained, they require less maintenance than most other types.

FAAC USA manufactures an array of brawny gate openers for both commercial and residential use. The FAAC USA Model 402 Hydraulic Swing Gate Operator is tailored for average single-family use; the Model 422 is designed for more demanding single-family use.

Either model can move a 900-pound gate leaf 90 degrees in a mere 12 seconds, they’re easily lockable in open or closed positions, and they’re fitted with a convenient manual mechanism. Battery backup units are available for both models and they can be packaged to be UL-325 compliant right out of the box, meaning no additional peripherals are needed.

Byan Systems also builds a line of almost totally maintenance-free, hydraulic, residential gate openers designed for easy installation. Its 500 Series Operator is designed for gates up to 12 feet long that weigh no more than 1,500 pounds. Whereas most gate openers must be mounted on the side the gate will swing toward, Byan units are always mounted inside the property, yet the gate itself can be installed to swing inward or outward.

Drive-through gates have a place on every hobby farm. They make farm living just a little bit easier and nicer. Install one (or two or six)—you’ll enjoy the convenience!

Categories
Homesteading

Small-scale Topiaries: Windowsill Perfection

By Kelly Wood

After patiently waiting you'll have miniature topiaries to adorn your windowsill
Photos by Rhoda Peacher
 

Topiary Candidates
Here are a few plants that make good, small topiaries (only a few of the myriad possibilities):

Herbs

  • Rosemary either upright or trailing
  • Lavender
  • Thyme
  • German camomile
  • Small-leaved basil
  • Lemon Verbena
  • Caper Bush

Ornamentals

  • Small-leaved fuchsia
  • Scented geraniums pelargoniums
  • Cardinal climber of other small-leaved vine
  • Dwarf/miniature rosebushes
  • Juniper
  • Dwarf conifers (check with bonsai growers)

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There are a number of plants you can use in your topiaries
 
Want to Try …Trellising? Click here for more>>

I recently received a postcard from a friend who visited Paris, but it was not of the Eiffel Tower or the Champs-Elysées—it was the awe-inspiring topiary shapes of the gardens at the Palace of Versailles, the pleasure grounds of King Louis XIV.

Homemade, small-scale topiary steps start here>>

I studied those same gardens in landscape architecture classes.

They’re often held up as an ideal of garden perfection: harmony, visual pleasure, peace and structure all side by side in a relaxing stroll around the grounds.

Why is the formal French style so appealing? Although topiary and plant shaping is not unique to the French—it can be found the world over—it seems to have a common appeal.

What is it about such formal design that gives us a sense of peace and comfort?

Inherent in the lovely shaping and pruning lies the secret to household sanity: It’s tidy! It’s the idea that we can control our world.

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Gain a Feeling of Control …
Wouldn’t it be nice if we could just wield a pair of hedge clippers and get the laundry, dishes and children’s rooms all in perfect order with a few whacks?

What could be more soothing than a walk down a yew allée toward a boxwood parterre, surrounded by perfectly geometric shrubberies and carefully manicured borders?

I personally love to walk in the woods and observe the natural beauty of things; there’s a calming feeling about looking at the lack of structure and control that nature has while still rendering the results gorgeous and balanced.

A fallen forest tree, covered in moss and ferns, cushioned in a pile of slowly moldering leaves is a beautiful, peaceful thing; however, it can make me think of the tree leaning over my compost bins that I’m worried might fall on them, and the moss that keeps growing on my front steps that’s slippery, and how I really need to get the pile of last fall’s leaves spread on the beds before the spring rains stop.

Squirrels scampering up and down an oak tree collecting acorns is endearing and entertaining. Squirrels scampering in and out of my painstakingly placed bird netting eating all my just-ripened strawberries is not.

The sense that we can actually control our gardens, the idea of a picture-perfect, not-a-leaf-out-of-place, ordered landscape (maintained by someone else) is a daydream that can invariably settle the mind of a harried housewife or a frenzied farmer.

We all long for structure, cleanliness, completion of chores and having “nothing to do.” “When I get this work done, I’ll …”  or “Once we finish that project, we’ll …”

How many times a season do we say that, planning for the arrival of our long-awaited friend, Leisure Time, bringing us a chance to stroll around our own grounds, admiring all our hard work and what we’ve finally accomplished?

For farmers, that time never comes. Seasons keep rotating, bedding has to be changed again, livestock always need to be fed; if we stop milking or checking nest boxes, we stop getting food.

Not only will our larder be diminished: Produce left unpicked will biologically signal the plant to slow down production.

Work is the endless lot of the farmer and a warm afternoon stroll through the tranquility of gardens like Versailles or Villandry remains an elusive treat.

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… With Miniature Topiary
But wait! You can achieve the same effect, with no airfare, accommodations, jetlag or Berlitz language lessons at all.

In fact, the word “topiary” comes from the Latin “topiarius” meaning “a creator of places,” which the Romans adapted from the Greek word “topia.”

You can create your own sense of place—come home to your very own miniature Versailles, easily pruned and shaped, and even useful in making that coq au vin in the crockpot for dinner! It’s time to try your hand at small-scale topiary.

Just like bonsai—the ancient Chinese art of aesthetic miniaturization of trees and shrubs—this form of topiary uses small-leafed plants to create miniature works of art.

It’s easy to do, cheap and fun; you can even use the end products as gifts for friends or relatives, or to enhance your culinary prowess.

Everyone will love windowsill-sized pots of herbs, especially when they’ve been pruned and trimmed into little shapes and forms.

For those you make for yourself, I find it only takes a few minutes a week to water and trim them in order to keep them in their formal shapes.

And it can serve as a mini-vacation to a land of formal gardens, complete with the satisfying aroma of lavender from France, rosemary from Italy and thyme from Greece.

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Materials for Ornamental Topiary:

  • Small-leafed herb plants, such as thyme or rosemary; or small-leafed fuchsias or vining plants
  • Wire, depending on shape of topiary desired
  • Wire cutters
  • Small, sharp, pointed scissors or shears

Step 1 (Option 1):
Root cuttings of chosen plants in water (fuchsias are particularly easy to do). This can give you nice, straight stems to begin your topiaries if you want to do a standard (or “lollipop”) shape.

The benefit of starting your own cuttings is that you choose your stem shape and size from infancy.

The downside is the time it takes for them to grow large. However, it’s quite a bit cheaper than buying nursery starts.


Step 1 (Option2):
Buy 4-inch high plants at the nursery. This is quick and easy, and can give you a jump-start on your topiary, but can be expensive and leaves you at the mercy of the plant shapes the nursery has on hand. Oftentimes growers will trim out central or straight leaders to encourage a bushier plant, which is considered more marketable. If buying, consider the plants carefully based on the shapes you hope to achieve.


Step 2:
Repot the plants into larger pots to encourage new growth and vigor.


Step 3:
Determine what shape you want the final topiary to be. Your options are limited only by your imagination and by the growth patterns of the plant.

Long, straight stems can be tied onto wire frames, while vines can be twisted carefully around circular or heart-shaped mini-trellises.

Fuller shrubs can be gently stuffed inside three-dimensional shapes and errant growth pruned back to the structure.

If the plant has a strong central stem, it can be tied gently to a stake and allowed to grow in an upright fashion or encouraged to grow into a trunk. Once it’s tall enough, it can be topped and the main growth pinched off to make a full-topped standard.


Step 4:
Step 4 pushing wire structure into the soil at the base of the plantIf a wire structure is to be used, cut the wire (I use basic, wire hangers) to the desired final shape and size, and carefully push it into the soil at the base of the plant.

If it’s a three-dimensional structure, you can tuck the plant into the center of it.


Step 5:
Water regularly and give the plant lots of natural or strong, artificial light to promote short, sturdy growth.

This is the hardest step for me because it also requires patience.

You can’t force a plant to grow faster than it will; by trying, the result is often long, spindly, weak growth that’s more prone to breaking and disease. It won’t form the thick, leafy stems you want for a full, shapely topiary.

You can also fertilize the plant with a product like Miracle-Gro, but again, be moderate. Too much chemical fertilizer can actually burn the roots, thus killing the plant, or promote long, spindly growth that isn’t conducive to topiary training and trimming.


Step 6:
Step 6 As the plant grows, trim it occassionally--trimming off growth that extends outside the wire frameAs the plant grows, trim it occasionally.

  • If it’s in a three-dimensional shape, trim off the growth that has extended outside the wire frame.
  • If it’s a twining plant or one you’re training in a linear shape, gently twist new growth onto the wire trellis and trim off errant growth.

A good way to promote bushy growth, especially on fuchsias and other ornamentals, is to pinch off the growth tips in the middle of a pair of branching leaves, like removing the buds from basil.

Doing this with every branching pair results in exponential growth as well as a bushier habit. On multi-stemmed, fine-leaved plants like thyme or rosemary, just pretend your clippers are miniature hedge trimmers and snip around the perimeter to shape it.

Here are some other fun ideas to try:

  • Create a small espalier by making a wire frame to grow the main branches along and trim those to form.
  • Or pull longer side branches down to soil level, pin them down with a stake and repeat as they root.
  • You can grow a little row of vertical branches like a miniature windowsill hedge to block the view of your neighbor’s trash cans.
  • How about three different flavors of thyme with braided “trunks” and a multicolored crown? Or a variegated fuchsia twisted with a solid green-leafed one? Or a small vine twining in the shape of the first letter of someone’s name?

The choices are limited only by your creativity.

Repeat steps five and six until the plant reaches a size and shape you’re happy with.

At this point, it’s complete; with a ribbon tied around it, or placed or replanted into a pretty, decorative container, it makes a perfect gift.

You can also keep it on your kitchen windowsill to get frequent, short-term doses of nirvana from the sense of control you have over this one small thing in your house. Use the clippings in your cooking or leave them out to dry for storing in spice jars.

What could be better—tranquility, control, beauty and culinary satisfaction, all wrapped up in one small
package?

About the Author: Kelly Wood imagines that she lives in Greece by clipping thyme while avoiding the work on her farm in Portland, Ore.

This article first appeared in the Fall 2008 Hobby Farm Home. For more articles like this, review past issues of Hobby Farm Home. You can also subscribe today>>

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Categories
Homesteading

The Benevolent Yule Goat

Julbock: Christmas goat made of straw and red ribbon
Courtesy Barbro Paulsson/ Wikipedia

If you think of Christmas and think of reindeer, think again. Think of the yule goat.

Call him the julbock (Sweden), julebukk (Norway), or joulupuuki (Finland), he’s been part of Scandinavian mid-winter celebrations for more than one thousand years.

In ancient midwinter celebrations a human dressed in goatskins and wearing a mask portrayed the Norse thunder god Thor’s goats, Tanngrisnir (Gap-tooth) and Tanngnjóstr (Tooth-grinder), who pulled his chariot through the winter sky.

In a traveling play called the “Juleoffer,” the man-goat “died” and came back to life, just as the winter sun does at Yule.

Early Christian fathers frowned on pagan revelry, so they proclaimed the Yule goat a demon.

According to 17th-century Swedish records, this darker version of the Yule goat traveled the countryside demanding food, playing pranks, and frightening people on the night of December 25.

He eventually become a benevolent being, giving gifts instead of demanding them.

Still later, instead of giving presents he worked for those who brought them. Gnome-like, gift-giving Swedish tomten, Norwegian nissen, and Finnish tonttu all rode Yule goats or hitched them to their sleds.

Early twentieth century Scandinavian artists like Jenny Nyström popularized the Yule goat and his tomten handlers through hundreds of charming, antique Christmas cards you can still buy at eBay today.

Here are several more ways to add the spirit of the Yule goat to your Christmas festivities this year.

  • Buy or make a straw julbock. The tradition dates back hundred of years, when families saved wheat sheaves until Christmas, then used them to create a goat effigy tied with red ribbons. Scandinavian gift stores sell them, as do eBay sellers this time of year.
  • Pack up your kids and “go julebukk”, a Norwegian custom whereby children dress in costume (goat, gnome, and Christmas elf costumes are especially appropriate) and appear on the doorsteps of family friends, where they sing Christmas carols in exchange for small treats.
  • Keep watch (online) over the Gävle goat, a giant version of a traditional straw julbock erected in central Gävle, Sweden, every year Vandals destroyed 38 the 66 goats constructed since 1966.

    Will this year’s survive? Tune in to the Gävle goat Webcams at Christmas Goat Sweden or official Gävle, Sweden, websites and see.

About the Author: Sue Weaver is a hobby farmer, avid history lover and Hobby Farms contributing editor. 

Categories
Crops & Gardening

Heirloom Vegetables

By Margaret A. Haapoja

Maybe it was her father’s “Rattlesnake” pole beans that convinced Arlene Coco to serve heirloom vegetables in her Duluth, Minn., catering business, Coco’s to Geaux. “My father used to send me the beans every year to plant in my garden,” Coco says. “He preferred them over ‘Blue Runners’ or ‘Kentucky Wonders’ because the 8-foot vines yielded lots of beans. The stunning, mottled green and purple beans lose their purple streaks and turn green when cooked. They have long pods, and the shelled beans are great in stews and soups. Although my dad is gone now, the ‘Rattlesnake’ beans are still a ritual in our family.”

Books

100 Heirloom Tomatoes for the American Garden; Carolyn J. Male, Workman Publishing Company, 1999.

Heirloom Vegetable Gardening; William Woys Weaver, Henry Holt & Company, 1997.

Melons for the Passionate Grower; Amy Goldman, Artisan, 2002.

The Compleat Squash; Amy Goldman, Workman Publishing Company, 2004.

The Great Garlic Book; Chester Aaron, Ten Speed Press, 1997.

Heirloom Vegetables; Sue Stickland, Simon & Schuster, 1998.

The Heirloom Gardener; Carolyn Jabs, Random House, 1984.

Seed to Seed (Second Edition); Suzanne Ashworth and Kent Whealy, Seed Savers Exchange, 2002.

Coco isn’t the only one enchanted by heirlooms, which many define as varieties passed down from generation to generation. Inspired by nostalgia and fear of the loss of genetic diversity, today’s gardeners are seeking these time-honored seeds in record numbers. According to the National Gardening Bureau, heirlooms are cultivated plant varieties that have been grown for at least 50 years. Rob Johnston, owner of Johnny’s Selected Seeds in Winslow, Maine, lists 84 heirloom vegetables in his 2006 seed catalog. He regards heirlooms as keepsakes. Explaining that an heirloom is a variety that owes its existence to the seed saving of amateur gardeners, Johnston says, “Something like ‘Blue Hubbard’ squash isn’t really an heirloom because it has always remained commercial. An heirloom is something you can’t buy any more; you have to maintain it through your own efforts.”

Johnston’s personal favorite is the “Garden of Eden” pole bean, of which its seeds came from a family in New Jersey who received a handful in the 1950s from a neighbor who brought them from Spain or Portugal. “It has a wonderful taste,” says Johnston. “I like beans cooked in all different kinds of ways and you can even let these beans get real big in the pods. When you boil them it’s like having shell beans and green beans in the same dish.”

Grown by Dedicated Gardeners
According to Kent Whealy, founder of Seed Savers Exchange, the country’s largest preserver of heirloom seeds, 90 percent of the seeds available in 1900 no longer exist today. Whealy says that several forces threaten this irreplaceable genetic diversity, including takeovers and consolidations within the mail-order garden seed industry, the profit-motivated hybrid bias of most seed companies, and plant breeding for mechanical harvest and cross-country shipping. Whealy and his organization are doing their best to save these old varieties with a membership of 7,000 people and a collection of 25,000 vegetable varieties at their Decorah, Iowa, Heritage Farm. “Gardeners should be extremely pleased to learn that 2,657 unique, new varieties have been introduced within the past six years,” says Whealy.

Heirlooms are always open-pollinated. That means, unlike hybrids, they will duplicate the parent plants in the next generation. “Typically heirlooms are of species that are easy to save seeds for,” says Johnston, “which is why they tended to be maintained. And the seeds maintain viability for a long time.” He encourages beginners to save seeds of tomatoes and beans, two of the easiest to save.

Heirloom Seed Sources

Seed Savers Exchange
(563) 382-5990
Founded in 1975, this granddaddy of heirloom suppliers lists 675 varieties in the catalog and maintains 25,000 vegetable varieties as well as facilitating a seed exchange for members who grow heirlooms.

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds
(417) 924-8917
Started seven years ago by a 17-year-old, this company lists 1,000 heirloom seeds and publishes The Heirloom Gardener magazine.

Sand Hill Preservation Center
(563) 246-2299
Lists 1,000 heirloom seeds and rare poultry.

Filaree Farm
(509) 422-6940
100 strains of garlic from all over the world.

Marianna’s Heirloom Seeds
(615) 446-9191
Tomato, pepper and Italian heirloom seeds as well as live plants.

Ronnigers Potato Farm
(877) 204-8704
Small family farm selling heirloom potatoes.

Johnny’s Selected Seeds
(877) 564-6697
Includes 84 heirloom varieties as well as hybrids.

Seeds of Change
(888) 762-7333
Offers a variety of open-pollinated, organic heirlooms from around the world.

International Seed Saving Institue
(208) 788-4363
100 percent organically grown vegetable, flower and herb seeds.

Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
(540) 894-9480
Emphasizes heirlooms for the Mid-Atlantic region.

Vermont Bean Seed Company
(800) 349-1070
Specializes in beans, but carries other vegetables and flowers.

Redwood City Seed Company
(650) 325-7333
Heirlooms, hot peppers and herbs.

Native Seeds/SEARCH
(866) 622-5561
A nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving and enhancing plants used by Native Americans of the Southwest. Heirloom squash, corn and melons.

Harvest Moon Farms & Seed Company
(505) 398-6111
Provides culinary specialty, certified organic, gourmet and heirloom seed varieties.

Princeton, Mass., gardener Kevin Fielding began growing heirloom tomatoes after he met garden photographer David Cavagnaro on the Internet. For many years, Cavagnaro worked at Seed Savers Exchange. He still grows 200 varieties of heirloom tomatoes as well as other old varieties in his own gardens. He taught city-bred Fielding how to start his own seedlings and save the seeds. The experience was a life-changing one for Fielding, who began to reach for his roots by growing “Mr. Charlie,” a red, heavily-ribbed, fluted tomato, and “Chinese” cucumber, a long, curly variety with wonderful flavor.

The intriguing names of many heirlooms are enough to hook most gardeners.  “Drunken Woman Fringe-headed” lettuce, “Radiator Charlie’s Mortgage Lifter” tomato, “Bull’s Blood” beets and “Cherokee Trail of Tears” beans conjure up interesting images with their colorful descriptions. Having grown 15,000 heirlooms over the years, Cavagnaro points to the advantage of finding locally adapted varieties. Among his favorites are “Tommy Toe,” a 1-inch cherry tomato that has repeatedly won taste tests; “Moon and Stars” watermelon with its irregular yellow spots; colorful, striped Italian eggplant “Listada di Gandia”; “FeherOzon,” a pointed, fleshy, pimento-type pepper from Hungary; and “North Georgia Candy” squash, a smaller, extremely sweet banana type.

Garlic guru Joel Girardin of Cannon Falls, Minn., has been growing heirlooms ever since he perused a Seed Savers Exchange catalog 10 years ago. “When I got their fall catalog listing all the seeds and the people that had them, I just sat down and was totally dumbfounded,” he says. Now he and a friend grow 150 varieties of garlic, 200 heirloom tomatoes, 20 different melons, 20 squash and several other vegetable varieties in their one-acre garden. Girardin sells some of the produce at a local farmer’s market and he’s noticed the public is becoming more educated about heirlooms. “When I first started doing this, I would take the different tomato varieties and cut them up so people could see what they look like inside,” he says.

“Now customers have favorites and they’re asking for ‘Cherokee Purple’ or ‘Brandywine’ by name. Letting people taste them makes a big difference so they can see how sweet they are, how much better they are.”

Girardin’s favorite heirlooms include “Matt’s Wild Cherry,” a small tomato thatdoesn’t crack very easily; “French Fingerling” and “Viking Purple” potatoes; “Golden Delicious” squash; “Frog Leg” shallots; and “Georgian Crystal” garlic.

Favored for Fine Cuisine
Like many epicures, Jeff Miller, Executive Chef at Papoose Creek Lodge, an eco-tourism resort in Montana that prides itself on sustainability and fine cuisine, enjoys using heirlooms in his menu. Miller orders most of the produce served at the lodge from Gallatin Valley Botanicals near Bozeman, Mont. “Heirloom varieties offer much greater character in flavor, texture, color and shape,” he says. “I’m not a nutritionist, but I would put a pretty penny down that they are also more nourishing per pound that what we now call conventional produce.”

Among Miller’s favorite heirlooms are “Delicata” winter squash; “Dragon Langerie” bean; “Red Russian” kale; “Rosa Bianca” eggplant; and “Chioggia” beets. “’Green Zebra’ tomatoes give nice acidity to a dish and can compliment a pairing with other tomatoes that offer more meat and sweetness such as ‘Cherokee Purple’ and ‘Brandywine,’” Miller says. “At their best, these ingredients can elevate the presentation and flavor profile of a dish. An heirloom four-tomato gazpacho can’t be touched by any hothouse tomato.”

To Save Tomato Seeds

1. Squeeze out the jelly-like substance containing the seeds from the cavity of the ripest tomatoes from the best plants. Add ¼ cup water, put in a dish and cover loosely.

2. Ferment for three to four days in a warm place, stirring once a day.

3. Pour off liquefied pulp and floating seeds, retaining the seeds that have sunk to the bottom.

4. Place these seeds in a dish and dry for three to seven days.

5. Label and store in tightly sealed, glass container in a cool place. Heat and moisture are the worst enemies of stored seeds.

For a complete seed-saving guide that describes specific techniques for saving the seeds of 160 different vegetables, purchase Seed to Seed, Second edition, by Suzanne Ashworth. This book can be order from Seed Savers Exchange, Decorah, IA.

Kirk Bratrud, chef at the Boathouse Restaurant in Superior, Wisc., grew up in a gardening family; he remembers his grandfather keeping a unique strain of pole beans. Although the short growing season in his area limits their availability, Bratrud incorporates heirloom tomatoes into his menus during the summer months. “You tend to have a greater variety of size, shape, color and texture of the flesh for specific uses,” he notes. “What is wonderful is that you can have a bright-green tomato that’s fully ripe, or a black one or a light-colored one, and tomatoes which are very large or quite small.” Bratrud says people growing heirloom tomatoes are very careful about when they pick them so they are usually absolutely, perfectly ripe. He prepares a tureen that encases various tomatoes in a celery root wrapper with layers of eggplant or carrot puree cemented together with aspic. One of his favorite tomatoes is the “Zebra Stripe,” which is bright-green with purple ribbing.

“It’s absolutely gorgeous and provides wonderful contrast when you cut it and place it in combination with other colored tomatoes,” he says.

Owner and chef, Sean Lewis, recently openedNokomis Restaurant on the North Shore of Lake Superior near Two Harbors, Minn. He has organic produce, including heirloom varieties, shipped in via Fed-Ex from Ohio. Among his favorites are “Green Sausage” and “Siberian Pink” tomatoes; “Pink Wink” potatoes; “Candy Stripe” beets; and “Tongue of Fire” beans.

Coveted by Co-operatives
Barth Anderson is director of research and development for Wedge Co-op, the largest consumer-owned, single-site grocery cooperative in the country, located in Minneapolis, Minn. Wedge sells $25 million worth of produce a year and Anderson says heirloom tomatoes are a high point in their produce year. “When they start coming in August and September, our customers really look forward to them,” he says. “They’re the Cadillac that we carry.  Heirloom tomatoes are more like a peach or a nectarine. They’re really dense, very flavor-saturated and those tomatoes definitely have a following—a very strong fan base.”

The demand for heirloom tomatoes increases every year at Wedge Co-op, and the co-operative deals with a series of growers that coordinate their planting, growing and harvesting times to guarantee a steady supply. “We would extend our growers even further south if we could find more growers,” says Anderson. When the last local tomato comes in, Anderson switches to California organic tomatoes. “But people love the local Minnesota product,” he says, “and they can tell the difference if a tomato hasn’t sat in a cooler overnight. Coolers sap flavor and anyone in a produce department knows that. The straighter the line between the shopper and the farmer, the better, and I think heirlooms play right into that.”

Growing Tips from Organic Farmers
Rhys Williams supplies Anderson with nine varieties of heirloom tomatoes from Featherstone Farm, an organic vegetable farm he runs with partner Jack Hedin. He agrees that shipping tomatoes takes a lot of the life and taste out of them.

“Striped German” and “Cherokee Purple” are Featherstone’s most popular tomatoes, and their heirloom tomato season generally lasts 10 to 11 weeks. The farm has 75 acres under production, and they sell to grocery stores, restaurants, farmers markets and wholesale markets in Chicago and the Twin Cities.

Arlene Coco’s Sesame
Rattlesnake Pole Beans
Ingredients:

1 pound “Rattlesnake” pole beans (flat Italian beans are a good substitute), cleaned and trimmed

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil

1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

Preparation: Heat 2 quarts of water in a large pot, bring to boil. Drop beans into water and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes depending on preference of doneness.
Drain beans and plunge into a bowl filled with ice water to stop cooking process.

Sprinkle with salt, sesame oil and seeds, tossing to coat beans evenly.
Serve cold or at room temperature.

Williams says heirlooms have been good for the farm, but they are not easy to grow. “Disease is the biggest problem we have,” he says. “They’re very susceptible to blight, and if you’re organic, you’ve got to be on top of it.  Applying copper is basically the only thing you can do and you have to be vigilant about applying it when moisture is present. Also, you have to make sure you stake the plants and anchor them well because some of the varieties, like ‘Striped German,’ get quite large.” Williams grows heirloom tomatoes on black plastic with drip irrigation. He spaces them some distance apart in the row and plants them on a windy ridge for good air penetration.

Once the tomatoes are harvested, they still require extra attention. “They’re very thin-skinned,” Williams says, “so every step of the way from picking to packing to shipping has to be done with care. A lot of hybrid tomatoes are bred to ship with thick skin, so they can take a lot more abuse. Also, heirlooms don’t keep, so you must pick them and use them quickly.”

Sandi Weller grows heirlooms in her Tamarack, Minn., garden and sells them at a local farmer’s market. Preserving biodiversity and history is important to her.  As a cook, the different sizes, shapes, colors and flavors of the old varieties of tomatoes, potatoes, squash, beans, corn, greens and melons appeal to her. Since she began selling her heirlooms at the farmer’s market, most customers’ reactions have been positive. “Most of them embrace the concept of preserving old varieties for future generations,” she says, “and more and more people are looking to the smaller, local grower. They are seeing the health benefits of buying high-quality, flavorful, nutritious food instead of the rather tasteless, plastic produce found in the grocery store.”

Weller agrees that heirlooms can be more difficult to grow, that they are more fragile and that their yields are sometimes lower. To counter their tendency toward disease, she mixes varieties and rotates crops, believing that this makes it harder for pests to find what they are looking for and disease is not spread as rapidly.
Weller’s favorite heirlooms include “Hutterite Soup,” a white bean that cooks into a creamy, hearty soup; “Goldmarie Vining,” a flat, yellow bean that stays tender and flavorful even when eight to nine inches long; “Carouby de Maussane,” a very prolific French snow pea with 4- to 5-inch pods; “Cocozelle,” a summer squash that stays firm when cooked and has a subtle, nutty flavor; “Lakota,” an orange and green winter squash with sweet, deep orange flesh; and “Black Plum,” a rare tomato that makes a mahogany-colored sauce.

Cavagnaro believes there is ample opportunity for market gardeners to grow heirlooms. “Farmer’s markets’ and CSAs [Community Supported Agriculture farms where members purchase shares each year] now specialize in many of these older, more flavorful and interesting varieties,” he says. “People love something new and are understandably both tired and suspicious of commercial agriculture products.” Amateur gardeners are increasingly intrigued by heirlooms and by the opportunity these time-tested varieties offer to connect them with the past. “When you grow things from seed,” says Kevin Fielding of his heirloom vegetables, “you really appreciate the whole process. You have a feeling of participating in something that is so basic, yet spiritual.”

This article first appeared in the May/June 2006 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Subscribe to Hobby Farms today!

Categories
Crops & Gardening Urban Farming

10 Ingredients to Make Your Own Potting Soil

Although many container-vegetable gardeners eventually find a reliable, favorite brand of potting soil, buying farm-sized amounts is not cheap and shipping is a nightmare if you can’t find a local source.

Mixing your own custom blends of potting soil with readily available ingredients allows you to develop a soil mixture suited specifically to your farm’s needs. It also allows you to pick and choose your nutrient sources—especially important to farmers looking to cut out the chemicals. All good-quality potting soil is easy to handle, is well-draining and contains ample organic matter. It should provide physical support to your plants as well as nutrients and sufficient water and air. Making your own potting soil mix is easy, and it gives you complete control of one of the most critical steps in the growing process.

Like all good recipes, quality ingredients are key to making healthy potting soil. Here are the ingredients you should look for.

1. Garden soil

For homemade potting soil mixtures, garden soil adds density and is a cheap source of bulk. Don’t use soil that contains pesticides, chemical fertilizer residues or other environmental pollutants. Using your farm’s topsoil or soil from a certified organic grower is best. Solarize the soil first by covering the pile with clear, plastic sheeting for at least four to six weeks to kill weed seeds, pests and pathogens. Sterilization is also possible in an oven or microwave, but this method leaves the house smelling, well, earthy.

2. Compost

Containing billions of beneficial microbes and with great water-holding capacity and nutrient content, compost is a must for quality, homemade soil mixtures. And if you make compost yourself, it’s free. It should be fully decomposed and screened into a small, consistent particle size. An added benefit: Recent studies note a decrease in foliar diseases on plants grown in soil mixes containing 20 to 30 percent compost.

3. Sand

Coarse builder’s sand improves drainage and adds weight to the mix, providing ample physical support for growing plants.

4. Sphagnum peat moss

A very stable ingredient, peat takes a long time to break down and is widely available and inexpensive. It bulks up mixes without adding a lot of weight and, once wet, holds water fairly well. The environmental impact of current peat harvests is a factor for some farmers, many of whom prefer to turn to coir fiber products instead. Organic farmers cannot use peat moss treated with a wetting agent, and most are treated. Limestone must be added to mixes containing sphagnum peat moss to help balance the finished product’s pH.

5. Coir fiber

A byproduct of the coconut industry, coir looks and acts a lot like sphagnum peat. It has more nutrients than peat moss and lasts even longer, but it’s more expensive to purchase. Coir is sold in compressed bricks.

6. Composted pine bark

Composted pine bark lightens up soil mixes by increasing pore sizes and allowing air and water to travel freely in the potting soil mixture. It is slow to break down, but might rob nitrogen from the soil as it does. The addition of a nitrogen fertilizer is necessary when using composted pine bark as an ingredient. It is most commonly found in mixes designed for potted perennials and shrubs.

7. Perlite

A volcanic rock, perlite is heated and expanded to become a lightweight, sterile addition to potting soil mixes. It holds three to four times its weight in water, increases pore space and improves drainage. With a neutral pH, perlite can be used in place of sand when a lighter mix is required.

8. Vermiculite

Vermiculite is a mined mineral that is conditioned by heating until it expands into light particles used to increase the porosity of soil mixtures. It also adds calcium and magnesium to the soil and increases the water-holding capacity. Select medium grade for seed-starting mixes and coarse grade for older, potted plants. Use caution when handling vermiculite, as it naturally contains asbestos. The EPA recommends growers use substitute products, such as peat, sawdust or perlite, whenever possible to avoid excessive exposure.

9. Limestone

Calcium carbonate or dolomitic limestone are used to adjust the pH of soil mixes containing acidic ingredients, such as sphagnum peat or composted pine bark.

10. Fertilizers

Additional nutrient sources are especially important when using soil mixtures that don’t contain compost. Choose natural fertilizers derived from mined minerals, animal byproducts, plant materials or manures. A combination of these natural fertilizers provides a long-term, stable and eco-friendly source of nutrients. Such a blend can include combinations of any of the following: alfalfa meal, blood meal, bone meal, cottonseed meal, crab meal, feather meal, fish meal, greensand, kelp meal, dehydrated manures and rock phosphate.

Use newly mixed potting soil as quickly as possible. Try to estimate exactly how much you’ll need on a given day to avoid storing it.

Categories
Equipment

7 Classic American Barn Styles

It was a beautiful summer day, drier than most July in the East. I was driving through eastern Pennsylvania on a business trip, enjoying the open highway before me. As I passed through towns along the roadway, I noticed the scenery was becoming more rural. It wasn’t long before great, green expanses lay on either side of the highway. Every few minutes, a magnificent barn would come into view, rising above the landscape and punctuating the sky with its gabled roof and proud silo. The glory of these old barns was breathtaking, leaving me to realize the power of this very American piece of architecture.

Throughout American history, farmers have built barns to shelter their livestock and store their harvest. A great number of barn styles can be seen throughout the United States, each suited to the environment where it resides.

“The design of a barn, especially if it is very old, is bound with the weather requirements of the area and the particular cultural traditions of the farmers in the region,” says Nancy W. Ambrosiano, co-author of Complete Plans for Building Horse Barns Big & Small (Breakthrough Publishing, 2006). “A steeply peaked roof, for example, is relevant to regions with considerable snowfall since the weight of snow can bring a barn down. Such peaks only capture heat in the hotter, humid South, so while they’ll still have a slope to shed rain and snow, more southerly barns add variations for ventilation such as the airy ‘monitor’ barns that ensure a breeze from floor to ceiling through the monitor’s vents.”

American farmers built their barns with not only practicality in mind, but also aesthetics. These barns were functional and their distinct looks provided a sense of identity to the regional farmlands on which they stood. Certain barn styles have become synonymous with particular parts of the country; in many cases they are considered historic reminders of the area’s agricultural past.

1. Bank Barns
The Midwest is home to the bank barn, a rectangular building with two levels. Traditionally, the lower level of the barn housed livestock and draft animals, while the upper level provided storage and a threshing floor. Both areas can be entered from the ground.

So named because the buildings were situated against the side of a hill, bank barns, most of which were built in the 1800s, permitted farmers direct access to the storage area with wagons loaded with wheat or hay. When built in an area where a hill was not present, a “bank” was created by building an earthen ramp.

The earliest bank barns featured gabled roofs, while later bank barns were built with gambrel roofs. Bank barns were primarily constructed with their axis parallel to the hill on the south side; this allowed livestock to have a sunny spot to gather in the winter. To take advantage of this protection, the second story is extended over the first; the overhang sheltered animals from harsh weather.

In certain areas of Wisconsin, where glaciers once moved during the Ice Age, bank barns were constructed with fieldstones. In non-glaciated areas of the state, primarily southwestern Wisconsin, the barn walls were made of quarried rock. In other areas of the country, bank barns were built from wood.

2. Round and Polygonal Barns
Round or polygonal barns, first built by the Shakers in the 1800s, are the rarest of barn types in terms of numbers and are scattered from New England to the Midwest. Although constructed in the early 19th century, these barns became popular during the 1880s when experiment stations and agricultural colleges taught progressive farming methods based on their great efficiency.

Round barns were encouraged for many reasons: circles have greater volume-to-surface ratios than other barn forms (square or rectangular), therefore they use less materials and save on cost. Also, they offer greater structural stability because they are built with self-supporting roofs, which also opens vast storage space. The circular layout was viewed as more efficient—a claim that was overstated, demonstrated in the lack of round barns today.

In the final stage of round-barn development, a center silo was added, allowing gravity to move feed from the barn’s top level to the floor. Made from wood or occasionally brick, round and polygonal barns typically housed cattle on the ground floor and hay in the loft above.

3. Tobacco Barns
Seen throughout the South and East, tobacco barns served a unique function when first erected nearly four centuries ago. Their role was to provide a place for tobacco farmers to hang and dry their crop after harvest.

These barns are heavily ventilated because air flow was needed to cure the hanging tobacco leaves. Multiple vents are typical of tobacco barns, which can be seen in different styles depending on the type of tobacco, the time period when tobacco became a crop in the area and local building styles, such as conventional tobacco barns that have long, vertical doors that open along the sides. They are made from oak, poplar or other regional timber.

4. English Barns
One of the first barn styles built in the states, English barns were a simple and popular design in New England during Colonial times, particularly in Vermont.

Reminiscent of barns in England, the English barn is usually small and rectangular in shape with an A-frame roof. These barns were traditionally made from wood, are not usually more than 30×40 feet in size and feature hinged wagon doors. The barn was usually located on level ground with no basement and unpainted, vertical boards on the walls.

The interior of the English barn has a center aisle and threshing floor. Livestock were kept on one side of the barn while feed was stored on the other.

5. Dutch Barns
Dutch barns are among the oldest and rarest American barns and are known for their broad, gabled roofs, corner stock doors, clapboarding and center wagon doors.

Popular in New York and New Jersey in the 1700s, these barns have a distinctive, H-shaped structure, which provided a rigid core to support the broad, gabled roof and walls. They feature a spacious center aisle with a plank floor for unloading wagons and for grain threshing.

The Dutch-style half doors were situated to allow prevailing winds to disperse chaff when threshing on the barn floor. A pent roof (or pentice) over the center doors gave protection from the elements. Flanking animal doors at the corners and holes near the roof to admit swallows and martins are typical Dutch barn elements.The side aisles were used to house cattle and draft animals, as well as to store feed and hay.

Unlike most other barns, the internal structure of the Dutch barn is relatively protected from the elements and can often survive exterior decay.

6. Crib Barns
Common in the South, crib barns are most often seen in the mountainous areas of North Carolina, Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee and Arkansas. The name of this barn comes from the one to six cribs built inside the structure for storage or for housing livestock. Smaller crib barns were used exclusively for feed storage.

Crib barns were built primarily in the 1800s and were most often made from unchinked logs occasionally covered with wood siding and wood-shingled, gabled roofs. Crib barns with roofs that were later replaced can be seen with tin or asphalt coverings. “Double-crib” barns feature a second-story loft; they were the simplest barn to build for their size and stability.

Similar to dog-trot houses, the double-crib barn, commonly found in Appalachia, consists of two cribs separated by a breezeway and covered by a single roof. The doors could either face front or toward the breezeway. The first story was used for stabling with the breezeway, usually used for grain threshing. The second story loft was used for hay and grain storage.

7. Prairie Barns
One of the most common barns in the American landscape, prairie barns (also called Western barns, one of which is pictured above), were the barn of choice for farmers in the West and Southwest because large livestock herds required great storage space for hay and grain.

These large, wooden barns provided plenty of storage space for feed and could house livestock if necessary. Long roofs that often reach nearly to the ground created ample space; these barns were built throughout the 1800s as agriculture spread westward. The prairie barn is similar to the Dutch barn with regards to the long, low rooflines and the internal arrangements of animal enclosures on either side of a central, open space.

Categories
Beginning Farmers

Aiding the American Farmer

A native son of the Midwest, John Mellencamp was a young man in his early 30s in the summer of 1985, and his album, Scarecrow, was burning up the charts. Its title song, “Rain on the Scarecrow,” was a searing commentary on what he saw happening to farms around his home in Bloomington, Indiana.

This land fed a nation, this land made me proud
And son I’m just sorry, there’s no legacy for you now
Rain on the scarecrow, blood on the plow
Rain on the scarecrow, blood on the plow

As John says, “It isn’t like you had to go looking for a cow, or looking for a cornstalk, they were everywhere. They were right outside the door.” Growing up and as a young man, he knew the people who owned those cows and those cornstalks. They were small, family farmers—people who had grown up on the land, and loved it.

Scarecrow on a wooden cross, blackbird in the barn
Four hundred empty acres, that used to be my farm
I grew up like my daddy did, my grandpa cleared this land
When I was five I walked the fence, while Grandpa held my hand

Farmers prospered in the late 1960s and early 1970s, with a federal farm policy that bolstered foreign exports of agricultural goods, and tax laws that encouraged outside investment in American agriculture. Because markets and income were so good, farmers were encouraged to borrow more and more money. They took on heavy debts, buying additional farmland, even though the land prices were seriously inflated.

Farmers owed nearly $50 billion to banks in 1970, but by 1985 their debt had exploded to $215 billion, with an overwhelming $20 billion a year in interest, yet the value of land and other farm assets declined nearly 50 percent from their peak in the late ‘70s. Farmers couldn’t pay back the loans, and a tsunami of farm foreclosures swept the country.

The crops we grew last summer, weren’t enough to pay the loan
Couldn’t buy the seed to plant this spring, the Farmers Bank foreclosed
Called my old friend Schepman, to auction off the land
He said John it’s just my job, and I hope you understand

But there were some people who wouldn’t accept the changes that were ravaging rural America. They would intercede on behalf of the farmers.

MUSIC FOR CHANGE
On July 13, 1985, rock musicians and bands, from both sides of the Atlantic, got together for the Live Aid charity concert, to raise money for African famine relief. During the show, Bob Dylan said something about it being too bad that some of the money being raised couldn’t be used to support American farmers.

Willie Nelson heard Dylan’s comment, and was spurred to action. “He was going to try to put this concert together; I think I was like the first guy he called,” John  Mellencamp says.

Just six weeks later, on September 22, 1985, before a crowd of over 80,000 people in Champaign, Ill., the first Farm Aid concert happened. Willie, John, and their friend, Neil Young, had recruited a veritable who’s who of musicians. Over 60 acts performed, raising over $7 million for America’s family farmers. As John explains, “Every rock band, and every country band, and every folk band in America was there. The first guy on the act was Jon Bon Jovi; he started the show and it just went on and on and on from there.”

The who’s who element has continued. In 16 concerts, Willie, John and Neil have drawn 329 artists into the fold. From Alabama and the Allman Brothers Band to Joe Walsh and Dwight Yoakam, some of music’s biggest names have come to perform, and have donated not only their time, but also all their expenses associated with playing at Farm Aid, making the concert a true benefit. Some artists have played Farm Aid only once or twice; others, like Dave Matthews, or Hootie and the Blowfish, play whenever their schedules allow.

Jim “Soni” Sonefeld, drummer for Hootie and the Blowfish, remembers well the band’s first performance at Farm Aid 1995. “I can guarantee you we were very nervous getting up in front of all those people at the first Farm Aid concert we did, and realizing that Willie Nelson invited us to do this gig with him. We were still very impressionable and we wanted the chance to be on with our idols. I think we got the call to do Farm Aid, and realized ‘wow,’ John Mellencamp’s gonna be there, Neil Young’s gonna be there, Willie’s gonna be there.”

But the chance to be on with these idols isn’t what’s kept Hootie coming back time and again. Soni grew up much like John Mellencamp did, in a small Midwestern town where corn and cows predominated, but he saw farm friends from school leave as the family farms were sold for subdivisions, and he saw independent businesses give way to big box stores. “I have always believed in, and tried to actively support, the small guy and the local guy in any business, from farming to a lot of different businesses. Why have the mom-and-pop record stores and the mom-and-pop convenience stores gone out of business? Why have family farmers gone out of business? …”

MAKING A DIFFERENCE
Farm Aid is about the music to most concertgoers, but to the artists themselves, it is very much about the cause. At its genesis, the cause was the depression—both economical and spiritual—that was troubling rural America; today it is still about family farmers, but it is also about providing the American people with a safe, fresh and locally grown food supply from family farmers, who are often good stewards of the land—for air and water quality, and for wildlife.

The result of these artists’ generosity has been that, since its inception, Farm Aid has granted over $17 million to more than 100 farm organizations, churches and service agencies in 44 states. Many Farm Aid grants are used for direct services, like food and emergency aid, legal assistance and hotlines—services that have helped thousands of struggling farm families across the country stay on the land. Farm Aid also grants funds to nonprofit organizations around the country that promote outreach, education and the development of long-term solutions for the problems facing rural America. In recent years, some of this support has gone to local efforts that confront the threat of increasing corporate control of agriculture.

When Farm Aid started, the farm crisis was “on the front page of the paper almost daily. There were foreclosures, and farmers going to help each other at penny auctions [farmers support each other by bidding very low to force the auctions’ cancellation]. People were very conscious about it,” says Carolyn Mugar, Farm Aid’s executive director.

Carolyn was recruited by Willie Nelson to help, about 10 days before the first concert. She says that although the farm crisis is not on the front pages of the paper anymore, there is still a real need. The farm crisis has become a chronic problem, but Carolyn sees something to be hopeful about. “People are becoming more conscious about where their food comes from and they are concerned about whether they are going to have access to fresh, locally grown, family farm raised food as opposed to food from factories, or food from other countries. We know that people are more and more interested in making a commitment to connect with family farms.” 

LOOKING BACK, LOOKING AHEAD
I ask John if, in the summer of ‘85, he thought he was going to be part of something that would go on for years and be such an influence on the dialog about rural America and our food system, or did he think they would do one concert, raise some money to give away, and that would be that? “Oh, definitely, I think the latter of the two was about all the vision I had. I can’t speak for Willie or Neil, but that’s about all the discussion we had at first. You have to imagine, at that time it was really quite an undertaking, just doing that first concert.”

But as everyone associated with Farm Aid points out, the problems have not gone away so neither has Farm Aid. It continues to grow and change, responding to changing, but continuing needs. Carolyn points to an example: “When we started, we knew that industrial agriculture was on the horizon, but it really started coming into people’s consciousness much clearer as factory farms arose in rural communities, ruining air quality, polluting rivers and driving family farmers out of business. People are realizing what this horror is, and they are more willing to start taking note of the difference between industrial food and family farm raised food.”

John follows up on the point. “When we started out we took a lot of paths and avenues that we hoped would help family farmers. But we realized as we were traveling them that they didn’t seem to be going particularly the way that we’d hoped. We could see that just being there for the farmer wasn’t going to work; we decided to take a more educational position and tried to be more proactive with the general public.”

What John sees as important in terms of the organization’s ability to ensure ongoing support of the cause is the backing of younger musicians. “I’ll tell you, I am always surprised about the people who want to play at Farm Aid. I had three young acts wanting to participate last year, andthese people were 22 years old—they had grown up watching it, and they were just so eager to play Farm Aid,” he says.

Thanks to his commitment to Farm Aid, Willie, John and Neil extended an invitation to Dave Matthews (who owns a farm of his own in Virginia) to join the board of directors of Farm Aid in 2001. John says, “Dave’s enthusiasm and commitment to Farm Aid have been just incredible. I think it must have been 1995, in Louisville, Ky., that he first played with us—that was before he was so well known, he was just starting out, but his commitment to Farm Aid was very big. He was so excited to be a part of everything and worked so hard.

“Dave is not one of those guys that ‘half-asses’ anything,” he adds with a laugh.

One thing is for sure, with new artists coming on board, and the commitment of John, Willie, Neil and Dave, Farm Aid will continue to provide great music for an important cause, and it will continue to advocate a food system that keeps the family farmer as the caretaker of the land.

About the Author: Carol Ekarius is a contributing editor to HF and author of several books on small farming, including her latest, How to Build Animal Housing (Storey Publishing, Spring 2004).

HFLyrics to “Rain on the Scarecrow” used with permission of John Mellencamp.

This article first appeared in the July/August 2004 issue of Hobby Farms magazine.

Categories
Homesteading

Farm Auctions

By Carol Ekarius

In this article …

Related Article
Overcome Auction Phobia

That auction was one of the first farm auctions we ever attended.

It was a Saturday afternoon in late February, and cars and pickups, many pulling stock trailers, were streaming up a gravel road near Deer Creek, Minn.

We were in the line, with our trailer hitched behind, and our hopes set high that we’d find just the right group of heifers, at just the right price, to start our own herd of dairy cows. In spite of cold temperatures and wind, the farm auction was drawing a good crowd. 

We bought five Holstein heifers that day; black and white bottle-babies that would form the foundation of our dairy herd almost two years down the line.

But since that February afternoon we’ve attended hundreds of farm auctions (and held one of our own).

We learned what many rural folks have always known: Farm Auctions are a great way to spend a day—offering a chance to socialize with rural neighbors, and the opportunity to buy anything from antiques and collectibles to land and livestock, or tractors and trucks. (Maybe even the kitchen sink!) You just never know what you’ll find at a farm auction.

The History of Auctions
Auctions have a long, and sometimes notorious, history. The first auctions that historians have confidently documented occurred in Babylon, about 500 B.C. At these earliest auctions beautiful women were sold into marriage. 

The Romans used auctions to dispose of all kinds of property, from grain and livestock, to the spoils of war. In fact, in 193 A.D., the Praetorian Guard sold the whole Empire at auction, after killing the ruling Emperor, Pertinax.  Unfortunately for the successful bidder, Didius Julianus, his acquisition was short lived—two months after he claimed the Empire, Rome fell in battle to Septimus Severus.

During the 1500s, the British began using “public outcry” to sell items, with the term “auction” making its debut in British dictionaries around 1600. The British style of auctioneering made its way to the New World with early settlers, but it was often used for selling out the property of debtors—or for selling slaves, giving early auctions in this country a bad name.

After the Civil War, Army Colonels traveled around the country selling seized and surplus Army goods. Civilian auctioneers followed the Colonels around, and dressed similarly, so that soon the public began to address all auctioneers as Colonel—a title still used by auctioneers today.

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The Market Sets the Price
Today, over 35,000 auctioneers practice the trade. Most are generalists, selling antiques one day, livestock the next day and used restaurant equipment another. The auctioneer works for a seller, and his or her goal is to maximize profit for the seller.

According to Bob Shively, CEO of the National Auctioneers Association (NAA), auctions are unlike other marketing methods because they truly allow the market place, on any given day, in any given place, to set the price between a buyer and a seller.

“At auction, the market sets the price; the real estate market gives a good example,” he says. “Typically, if you wanted to sell your house you’d call three or four realtors. They’d come over and tell you your house is worth $100,000 and you’d put your house on the market for that price. But in the majority of cases you’d end up selling it for less than your asking price. So the traditional real estate market works from the price coming down, but the auction method of marketing is based on the price going up. More times than not we find that the price realized at auction is comparable to, or exceeds, that received through other marketing strategies.

“There is age-old thinking that only ‘distressed property’ is sold at auction, but it just isn’t so,” says Shively. “For years, industrial real estate and farms and ranches—especially bare farmland—were often sold at auction, but nationwide we are seeing a real spike in auctions where residential real estate sells at auction also. The National Association of Realtors predicts that within five years, almost one third of all real estate transactions will likely be auction based.”

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At Auctions Buyer Beware Rule Applies
Although auctions can be a lot of fun, and a good way to buy, sell or trade almost anything, they can be a dangerous way for the uninitiated to shop. They are a “buyer-beware” world, where items are sold “as is” and all sales are final.  

An auction I recently attended provides a good example. I got there early in the morning to inspect items I was interested in. There were all kinds of neat household items—some antiques, and some modern—on a hay wagon, and I spent time looking things over.

When the auction got going a couple of nicely dressed women who looked to be straight out of the city started bidding against each other on a bowl that looked like an antique, but was actually a modern reproduction you could probably pick up in a department store for $10 or $20. One of the women was pleased as punch when she got the bowl for $108, but her jaw dropped when the auctioneer handed her the bowl and she realized her mistake. By then, it was too late—she had bought the bowl.

The moral: To get good buys at an auction, you need to be an educated buyer. Although any auctioneer worth his salt won’t tell you it’s an antique if it’s not, he also won’t say during the bidding, “Hey lady, you’re bidding too much for a department-store bowl.” 

Larry Theurer, an auctioneer from Wellington, Kan., who has been in the business since 1976, andis current president of NAA, agrees: “There are a number of things we recommend. Know what you need before you get to the auction, and know what it’s worth. Visit with a reputable auctioneer or someone in the farming business to help assess your needs before you go to your first auction.” 

Don’t buy a big tractor and big equipment if it’s not needed; bigger isn’t always better, says Theurer. “There are differences in quality that auctioneers and experienced farmers know about, but that newcomers don’t always know; one model may have a history of problems, or be harder to find parts for. Some brands always bring more money, but that’s because they are more reliable. In my experience, most hobby farmers, because they have outside jobs, need to buy good quality equipment so they don’t have to spend all their time working on it.”

The same applies to livestock. “Quality varies from farmer to farmer,” says Theurer. “Try to deal with reputable people. Horses are a perfect example. Despite all the good people, there are some real crooks in the horse business. So, there are good horses, but there are also horses with inherited problems. For novice buyers, they won’t even have a clue what those problems are.”

The way around the problems that Theurer points out: Come early and thoroughly inspect any goods you might want to bid on. If you’re thinking of bidding on expensive items, like breeding stock, machinery or vehicles, you can usually arrange an advance visit to the auction  site to get a closer look. Bring along your own personal expert—a mechanic or veterinarian—if you are serious about investing in equipment or livestock. 

Talk to the auctioneer; talk to the owner. “If someone asks me before an auction starts, I’ll give them an honest range that the item they’re looking at should sell for,” says Theurer. “I want buyers to be satisfied with what they buy.”

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The Future of Farm Auctions
The times they are a changing, and auctions are changing with them. “Farm auctions, it’s no secret, are decreasing in number, because we have sold so many farmers off in the last decade or two,” says Theurer. “For example, we do about 10 farm auctions per year now; a decade ago we were doing double that. But one change we have observed is an increase in the volume of equipment and consignors at our consignment auctions. The consignment auction is a great opportunity for smaller farmers to sell, and for beginning farmers to buy all types and sizes of equipment. We may have 100 to 125 consignors—it’s a huge, full day. We’ll have tractors that are 30 or 40 years old, some of collectible types, to modern four-wheel-drive tractors.”

Also, you may be able to take advantage of another change. According to NAA’s Shivley, “By and large, auctioneers are moving into the electronic age. Many are already utilizing online broadcasting of auctions via the Internet. They accept online bids as the live auction is taking place, essentially bringing the world into the auction. It gives auctioneers the ability to maximize value for the seller, which is who they are working for.” 

It also gives buyers the chance to participate in auctions they normally couldn’t attend—or to stay warm and dry while bidding from the comfort of home on a cold winter day.

The Fastest Talker in the World
Auctioneers are known for the chant they use to sell products, and for Bill Sheridan, of Sheridan Realty and Auction in Mason, Mich., his chant—and his knowledge of the auction business—has earned him the title of World Champion Auctioneer.

Bill started out in the auction business in 1975, working first at a livestock sale barn, and later branching out to his own business.

Bill explains his winning technique, “The chant is the announcement of a bid, and calling for a higher bid. Some auctioneers add lots of ‘noise,’ but I feel like the public wants to buy and they aren’t really interested in fancy words. I have worked hard to develop a melodic chant that’s full of rhythm and pleasing to the ear. I try to keep it clean and straight, with no excess garble.”

The world championship is an actual auction with over 500 bidders.

Eighty-eight competitors from every state as well as Canada and Mexico competed last year, and all competitors had to first win at a state championship.

During the competition each competitor sells three items while seven judges assess their technique, their ability to catch bids, how they maintain order in the auction and get value for the items they are selling.

Bill sold a camera, a pearl necklace and a watch during the first round of judging. After all the competitors have sold three items each, the top 15 competitors come up for a question-and-answer session that assesses their knowledge of the business.

If you are looking for a farm auction in the upper midwest, there’s a good chance you might find Bill.

Although he no longer works regularly at a sale barn, he’s still very involved in the agricultural sector, and still sells lots of livestock at private farms and special sales, like the Upper Peninsula Beef Expo Sale, and the Michigan State University Arabian Horse Farm Sale.

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About the Author
: Carol Ekarius is a small farmer, freelance writer and a contributing editor to HF.

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This article first appeared in the August/September 2003 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Pick up a copy at your local newsstand or tack and feed store. Click here to subscribe to HF.