Categories
Recipes

Watermelon Rum Cooler with Juice Cubes

A rum cooler is a popular and yummy drink made even better with homemade juice cubes. Made from your favorite juices, these cubes are a great way to preserve fresh juice in the form of ice cubes. These juice cubes can then be used to flavor water or your favorite fruity drink. This cocktail uses ice cubes made with fresh mint grown in the garden and the last watermelons of the season but it can be customized for individual tastes using other juice and herb combinations.

Homemade Juice Cubes

Juice Cube Ingredients

  • 2½ cups watermelon chunks
  • 15 fresh mint leaves

Juice Cube Preparation

Make the ice cubes at least six hours before you’re ready to use them in cocktails or other recipes. Feed the watermelon and the mint leaves into an electric juicer. Make sure to alternate between a few pieces of melon and a few mint leaves at a time. Stir the blended juice. Fill a standard 24-piece ice cube tray with the juice and freeze until firm.

Watermelon Rum Cooler Cocktail Recipe

Yield: 4 rum cooler cocktails

Rum Cooler Cocktail Ingredients

  • 1 lime, quartered
  • 20 fresh mint leaves
  • 6 cups watermelon chunks, juiced (makes about 24 ounces)
  • 4 ounces white rum
  • 24 ounces of club soda

Rum Cooler Cocktail Preparation

Muddle one-quarter lime and five mint leaves in each of four 16-ounce pint glasses. Remove the mashed lime rind from the glasses. In each glass, pour in six ounces of watermelon juice and one ounce of white rum. Top it off with six ounces of club soda. Stir the ingredients a few times to mix. Add four juice cubes to each glass and serve immediately. Garnish the glass with a sprig of mint and slice of lime to add to a festive flair.

This watermelon rum cooler recipe made with homemade juice cubes was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Equipment

Used Farm Equipment for Sale: 5 Tips for Purchasing

Purchasing used farm equipment for sale can be a cost-effective strategy for hobby farmers looking to expand their capabilities without breaking the bank.

Used farm equipment for sale—even old equipment that is no longer cutting-edge—can perform admirably for years, especially if you take good care of it. But before you dive in and purchase the first machine you see listed in an online ad, let us help you make sound buying decisions by sharing five tips for purchasing used farm equipment:

#1 See the Equipment In Operation Before Purchasing

If purchasing from a private seller, try to schedule a visit to see the used equipment in operation before you commit to buying. Just because a machine was running fine when last used four years ago doesn’t mean it will still work after four years of aging/weathering/rusting. Request to see the main features in action; maybe you want to test the front-end loader of a tractor or see a hay baler tie a knot.

Seeing the equipment in operation also gives you a chance to examine it from all sides and check for general signs of age and wear, which might be more evident in person than in photos. You can also get an idea of whether the equipment has been stored under cover or out in the open.

#2 Determine If the Equipment Can Be Professionally Serviced

This will depend in large part on the age and brand of the equipment you’re purchasing, but if it’s possible to have used equipment professionally serviced in your area, that’s a nice positive. If you’re considering purchasing a 15-year-old John Deere garden tractor and there’s a John Deere dealer in your area that can service it, that’s a nice reassurance, particularly if you’re uncomfortable with DIY repairs.

#3 Check How Easily Replacement Parts Can Be Acquired

If you’re considering purchasing very old equipment—say, a hay rake or hay baler that is decades old—it’s worth researching the model number to determine how (or if) replacement parts can be purchased. Are there part numbers you can reference? Are some/all of the most important and/or delicate parts still manufactured? You might be surprised at how many obscure old parts can still be purchased, so long as you can figure out what you’re shopping for.

Also, can you acquire an instruction or service manual for the equipment? These old booklets can provide a wealth of information for troubleshooting any problems that arise.

#4 Consider Buying Equipment Similar to What You Already Own

Suppose you’ve used a particular piece of equipment for years, but now it’s suffered major damage and repairing it wouldn’t be cost-effective. If it’s a common model, and you like how it performs, you might consider replacing it with an identical model. Then your broken one can serve as a source of replacement parts for your new one.

#5 Go Bigger and Get a Warranty

While it’s tempting to hunt for deals from individual sellers, you should also consider purchasing from dealers that buy and sell used equipment on a regular basis, especially if it’s a pricier machine that you’ll use heavily. Such dealers may inspect and restore equipment, then offer a warranty to guarantee that the equipment will operate as intended for a certain period of time. You’ll pay more, of course, but if peace of mind is paramount it may be worthwhile.

By following these five tips for purchasing used farm equipment for sale, you’ll be well on your way to acquiring reliable machines that will suit your needs for years to come.

This article about how to purchase used farm equipment for sale was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

Oyster Shells for Chickens for Strong Eggshells

Oyster shells for chickens can help them to lay eggs with stronger eggshells. While we don’t often think about the purpose, composition or strength of eggshells, there are serious implications associated with the structural integrity of an eggshell, including hen health, the viability of a developing chick and even human health.

Calcium Conundrum

Eggshells consist primarily of calcium. For a hen to make an egg, she needs calcium from somewhere. However, most of us stop thinking about it after we purchase a bag of oyster shells and a commercial layer feed that contains calcium.

Why should we offer oyster shells for chickens along with this layer feed? A second source of calcium should be available to support the health of the hen in addition to helping her create strong eggshells.

Many people feed the cleaned, dried eggshells back to their laying flock instead of oyster shells, believing this will accomplish the same objective. However, that is not the case, and the reason relates primarily to size.

Let’s take a deeper look at why laying hens need oyster shells in their diet and why offering eggshells back to them does not offer the same benefits to hen health and shell strength.

Oyster Shells for Chickens: Food and Health

Chickens and humans are different in a lot of ways, but we’re similar in that what we eat affects our health as well as how our bodies perform various functions. As any woman who has struggled with fertility issues knows, diet affects egg production and egg quality; similarly, a hen’s egg production and quality are affected by her diet.

A hen, however, is much more sensitive to getting her daily nutritional needs met than a woman, for a variety of factors including a hen’s distinct anatomy, her high metabolism and because she produces many eggs each month rather than just one. For a hen to be healthy and make strong eggshells, she must have access to precise amounts of specific nutrients—most notably, calcium—in specific forms, at particular times throughout each roughly 24-hour period.

Eggshells are approximately 95 percent calcium carbonate. To produce an eggshell, the calcium must come from a hen’s diet. In fact, a laying hen must consume approximately 4 grams of calcium per day to get the 2 grams of calcium needed to make one eggshell, which is three times more dietary calcium than required by nonlaying hens.

The most common sources of calcium carbonate fed to laying hens are crushed limestone and oyster shells. Commercially prepared layer feeds ordinarily contain crushed limestone, while oyster shells for chickens are usually offered as a supplement in a dispenser or hopper alongside the feed. I offer oyster shells to my hens free-choice to allow each hen to regulate the intake to meet her specific calcium needs.

bowl of oyster shells for chickens

Calcium carbonate must be broken down into its calcium and carbonate components in the hen’s intestine before being absorbed into the bloodstream, where it’s delivered directly to the shell gland (the uterus); any extra is then stored in the hen’s bones.

Laying hens store calcium in specialized bones called medullary bones. Think of a medullary bone like a sponge filled with calcium that is encased inside a hard, hollow bone. The hard bone is the cortical bone, which is responsible for strength and stability.

If a laying hen doesn’t have calcium trickling into her bloodstream while making an eggshell, she will steal it from the calcium stash inside her cortical bones. This calcium theft can cause brittle bones that fracture easily (osteoporosis), and in the most severe cases, the inability to stand, which is known as caged-layer fatigue.

stack of broken chicken egg shells

Shell to Shell

It pains me to break some of my hens’ colorful masterworks, intentionally or unintentionally, but when I do, it’s a consolation to know that I can feed the clean, dry, crushed shells back to the ladies for use in making new shells. However, feeding eggshells back to a hen is not sufficient to supply her with the resources she needs to create new, strong eggshells and to remain healthy.

Mixing clean, air-dried eggshells into oyster shells for chickens is fine, but eggshells, much like crushed limestone in the feed, are a fast-release source of calcium, which isn’t available to a hen during the most calcium-demanding portion of eggshell production: at night while she’s sleeping. The take-home message: Eggshells offered with oyster shell are fine but aren’t a sufficient source of supplemental calcium by themselves.

Oyster Shells for Chickens: Size & Timing Matters

The time it takes for most food particles to pass through a chicken’s digestive tract is approximately 90 minutes. When a hen is awake and eating layer feed, crushed limestone dissolves into her bloodstream quickly, getting where it needs to go. However, it takes approximately 25 hours for a hen to construct an egg. Eighteen to 20 of these hours are dedicated to shell formation, the bulk of which occurs at night while she is sleeping. Do you see where we’re going with this? When a hen is asleep, she is not eating and therefore doesn’t have access to the calcium in her feed to use for building the shell. That is a major problem because while building an eggshell, a hen can use and replace the calcium she carries in her bloodstream as many as 100 times.

So, what’s a girl to do in the middle of the night when she craves calcium on the graveyard shift? While she won’t stop making the eggshell without crushed limestone in her bloodstream, she will continue building the eggshell to the detriment of her own health with calcium she pillages from her bones to finish the job. That is unless—cue the dramatic music—she has a second source of slow-release calcium to tap into late at night.

The large particles of oyster shells serve as a slow-release source of calcium for a hen. They sit in her gizzard, where they are ground up gradually throughout the night for use as the hen needs them. If you pay attention to your laying hens just prior to roosting time each night, you will notice that they pick up pieces of oyster shell, readying themselves for their night job.

Strength Equals Health

A hen cares about eggshell strength, and so should we. Let’s remember that the purpose of eggs is to make more chickens, not breakfast food. If fertilized by a rooster, the contents of an egg can contribute to the perpetuation of the species. For a fertilized egg to have a chance at developing into a healthy chick, it must be protected from harm, including bacteria sneaking in through an eggshell’s approximately 7,000 to 17,000 pores. A strong eggshell is a critical defense against threats to the survival of a developing embryo. That’s a lot of pressure on a hen to make a quality product.

Most eggs laid in today’s world are destined for human consumption. Why should we care about eggshell strength? Two words: food safety.

When we think about eggs and food safety, we often concern ourselves with issues such as whether an egg is clean or dirty when collected, washed or unwashed, and stored in the refrigerator or on the countertop. Defending an egg’s contents against bacterial invasion is an eggshell’s primary function, and a strong eggshell is an important defense against bacteria getting into our food.

Here’s a quick test for eggshell strength you can try at home with the kids. Crack an eggshell on a bowl, and take a look at the resulting break. Did the shell break in a straight, clean line or was it jagged and haphazard? A clean break signals a strong eggshell while a jagged or messy break suggests the need to reassess the hen’s diet with a close look at the sources and forms of her calcium intake.

This story about oyster shells for chickens originally appeared in the May/June 2018 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Recipes

Turmeric Pickled Eggs: Preserve the Laying Season

Turmeric pickled eggs are a great way to preserve eggs while they are abundant before your chickens start to moltYou can freeze eggs, but my favorite way to preserve eggs is to pickle them since they last for months.  

Yield: 1 pint jar 

Turmeric Pickled Eggs – Ingredients

Main
  • 5 to 6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled 
  • 1 tbsp. ground turmeric 
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed 
  • 10 whole black peppercorns 
  • 1 jalapeño, sliced (optional) 
Brine
  • 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar 
  • 1/2 cup water 
  • 2 tsp. canning salt 

Turmeric Pickled Eggs – Instructions 

Add the peeled hardboiled eggs and the remaining ingredients to a clean pint jar. 

Heat the brine ingredients to a simmer and stir until the salt is dissolved. 

Carefully pour the brine over the eggs until they are completely submerged. Wipe the rim of the jar clean with a dampened cloth to remove any spillage.  

Place the canning jar lid on the jar and tightly screw on the ring. Tip the jar upside down a few times to mix the ground turmeric with the brine. Transfer to the refrigerator. 

Allow your turmeric pickled eggs at least one week before tasting (or 48 hours if you can’t help yourself). 

Notes 

Be sure to thoroughly clean your space and supplies before pickling (as when doing any food preservation). Sterilize jars and wash lids.  

The longer eggs pickle in the vinegar solution, the more “rubbery” the texture of the egg white will become. Therefore, I recommend enjoying pickled eggs within three months for best texture.  

Small or medium eggs are preferred for pickling, as they fit into the jar better. Pint jars fit five to six eggs and quart jars fit 10 to 12. 

Use canning jars with shoulders (instead of wide-mouth jars) so that the shoulders help keep the eggs and other ingredients pushed down, underneath the brine.  

This story about turmeric pickled eggs was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Uncategorized

What Chickens Lay Green Eggs? 4 Breeds to Consider

Chickens that lay green eggs have started to gain popularity in backyard flocks. In this guide, learn more about these extraordinary chickens, including temperament, color varieties, and egg production, to discover why these four breeds are gaining popularity.

#1 Olive Egger

Delightful and friendly, Olive Eggers are a popular breed choice for backyard flock owners who want chickens that lay green eggs. Olive Eggers are a cross between an Araucana or Ameraucana and a Marans. The cross between a blue egg-laying breed and a chocolate egg layer produces chicks that lay olive-green eggs. Now you know how this breed got its name!

Olive Egger hens are high producers, averaging 4 – 6 large/extra large eggs weekly (150 – 240 eggs annually). Eggs range in color from olive green or teal to khaki.

This breed is known for their friendly disposition. Olive Eggers are docile, easily handled, and enjoy interacting with people. Their calm personality makes them an ideal choice for novices and children. Hens rarely go broody, but they make exceptional mothers when they do.

While they are not exceptionally long-lived, Olive Eggers live an average of five to eight years (the average lifespan of most backyard breeds).

Color varieties: Olive Eggers come in shades of browns, grays, and blacks. Some individuals sport speckled or mottled feathers, while others do not.

#2 Green Queen

One of the rarest breeds of chickens that lay green eggs, the Green Queen is an ideal choice for those looking for a prolific green egg layer. Because they are hybrids, these chickens don’t breed true, making them a real surprise. Most Green Queen chickens sport a beard and muff, while others may have feathering on their legs and feet. Individuals of this breed may even have five toes.

Green Queen hens are good layers, averaging 4- 6 large eggs weekly (about 150 – 240 eggs annually). Most hens lay eggs in shades of green, but some will lay tinted or brown eggs since the breed doesn’t breed true.

Green Queen hens are cuddlier than other breeds and are known for their people-loving personalities. They get along well with humans and other chickens. However, their calm and docile personalities put them at a disadvantage when housed with more aggressive breeds.

A calm and hardy breed, the Green Queen is a good starter chicken for novice owners looking to start their backyard flock.

Average Lifespan: five to eight years.

Color Varieties: Comes in a wide array of colors, none of which breed true.

#3 Easter Egger

Did you know? Easter Eggers are the most common breed of chickens that lay green eggs. That’s right! Easter Eggers are among the most commonly found chickens in backyard flocks, rivaling even the Barred Plymouth Rock. So, what makes this breed popular?

Another colored egg layer hybrid, Easter Eggers do not breed true. This trait makes it impossible to breed for a feather or egg color, earning this breed its name. This breed is especially popular with children, who love the color varieties these chickens offer.

Easter Egger hens are excellent producers, averaging 4 – 6 large/extra large blue, green, or brown eggs weekly (250 – 280 eggs annually).  Easter Eggers rarely go broody as these hens were bred to lay an abundance of colored eggs, not hatch and raise chicks.

Friendly, calm, and sweet-natured, Easter Eggers thrive on human attention and snuggling on their favorite owner’s lap. However, their docile nature puts them at a disadvantage when housed with more aggressive breeds.

Average Lifespan: Five to eight years.

Color Varieties: Easter Eggers come in many colors, none of which breed true.

#4 Favaucana

The Goldendoodle of the chicken word, the Favaucana, is a cross between the Ameraucana and Salmon Faverolles. This breed possesses the calm and sweet personality of the Faverolles and the extreme cold-hardiness of the Ameraucana. Their cold-hardiness makes them ideal for those in colder climates desiring chickens that lay green eggs.

Favaucana hens are excellent layers, producing an average of 5 large sage green eggs weekly (about 250 – 300 eggs annually).

Calm, sweet, and docile, Favaucana chickens are an excellent breed for the novice. This breed does well in a mixed flock and shouldn’t be easily bullied. Favaucana hens go broody and make excellent mothers.

Average Lifespan: Five to eight years.

Color Varieties: Wheaten and Blue. (Even though the Favaucana has recognized colors, the American Poultry Association does not recognize this breed)

Note: Favaucanas and Green Queen chickens are rare breeds that are only available at select hatcheries.

While chickens that lay green eggs may not have as many breeds to choose from or be as popular as brown egg layers, they are starting to increase in popularity. If you want a green egg layer, these four delightful breeds are ideal for the novice or veteran backyard flock keeper.

This article about what chickens lay green eggs was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Podcast

Growing Good Podcast #83: Melissa Stewart, director of the West Virginia National Guard’s Patriot Guardens

Listen to Melissa Stewart’s story about the West Virginia National Guard’s Patriot Guardens program — the only agricultural unit embedded in a National Guard unit — and how it grew from an educational program to what it has become in 7 years: an urban farm in Charleston, a flock of laying hens, farmers markets, an orchard on reclaimed coal-mine land in Central West Virginia, a robust beekeeping program, business and marketing support, a composting project, family programming, and mental-health services. All grant-funded, Patriot Guardens is ever-evolving.

Melissa Stewart is the director of the West Virginia National Guard’s Patriot Guardens program.

Melissa talks about the ways this program is benefiting their military service people and veterans, with some seeing agriculture as a possible retirement plan, giving them an opportunity to continue to give back to their community after their military service. Hear about a success story of one participant who’s turned what he’s learned in the program into a thriving plant business. And Melissa gets emotional talking about why Patriot Guardens is important to her and the impact it has on their service members.

As a greenhouse production grower before becoming an Extension agent (and now working with Patriot Guardens), Melissa has a ton of experience using a range of gardening techniques. Listen to the end for Melissa’s advice on getting starting with aeroponics at home.

Links

Patriot Guardens on Facebook         Patriot Guardens website

 

 

Categories
Animals

5 Tips To Prevent Heat Stress in Cows

Heat stress in cows can be a real problem as summertime heat builds.  Extremely hot days with the glaring sun are only made bearable by the blowing breeze and the welcome cover of shade from nearby trees.

Different livestock animals possess unique features to help them survive and adapt to different environment. Cattle are no exception. But there are a few things we can do to make them a little more comfortable.

What kind of weather combination is so hard on cattle? Is it the sun and high temperatures that beat them down or is it high humidity?

It’s actually a combination of both.

Dry, 95°F heat, for example, is unpleasant but not unbearable. But it’s when that 95°F day is coupled with 80 percent humidity that lasts for a majority of the day that animals can become overloaded.

In The Cattle Health Handbook, author Heather Thomas notes that any air temperature above 80°F can cause heat stress when paired with 75 percent humidity. (That is, if it stays above 80°F 24 hours a day, even through the night.)

During High Heat, Look for Signs of Heat Stress in Cows

So how do you know if an animal has overheated?

What are some physical signs you look for? When visiting with a local rancher, he said that in extreme cases, you’ll notice:

  • rapid breathing
  • frothing at the mouth
  • possibly even the tongue hanging out

He mentioned that cattle will also pace back and forth, trying to find a cooler spot. Here are a few key things you can put in place to help make the summer season a bit more bearable for cattle.

1. Offer Plenty of Fresh, Cool Water

Water is a requirement for any season and time of the year. But during the summer, it’s critical.

According to Thomas, cattle need more than 4 gallons of water per 100 pounds of body weight, if the temperature is over 95 degrees. For a 500-pound animal, that’s over 20 gallons of water per day.

Water intake will vary depending on the kind of cattle you have, if they’re steers or lactating cows, etc.

As for water sources, if your cattle are dependent on a pond for their water supply, be sure to check it often. (If it’s not very large or is prone to leaking from time to time, check daily.) Also, have a backup plan ready just in case it goes dry. Different water sources include reliable streams or rivers, ponds or windmills.

A last resort is always to haul water to a stock tank. This can be a pain. But some way or another, you must make sure the cattle have plenty of water available at all times.

2. Provide Sunshades or Trees

For cattle in feedlots, sunshades are a great option to help give cattle a break from the golden rays. A couple of things to consider as you set up your shade are the location and size of shadow it will cast, and the material it is made of.

A shade would be best located toward the middle of a pen. There, it will be easily accessible as the shadow moves throughout the day.

3. Feed at the Correct Time

When feeding cattle during the summer, avoid feeding them in the heat of the day. Preferably, feed during the early morning and late evening.

Cattle produce heat as they digest forages and feed. So if not fed early enough in the day, they will end up digesting food midday during the peak of the heat.

Another advantage of feeding early is that cattle will be more willing to eat while it’s cooler out. As it heats up, they’ll pick around and eat less.

4. Provide Salt & Minerals

Just like people will drink sports drinks to get electrolytes, it’s important to help your cattle out by offering salt and mineral blocks in easily accessible areas.

Both sodium and minerals are lost through body fluids and sweating. If not replaced, cattle will fair even worse in the heat.

5. Let the Animals Rest

Move and work the cattle as little as possible during the heat of the day. Whether it is working and vaccinating them, walking them to a different location, or physically loading and transporting them, it’s best to wait until it cools off.

When hauling them somewhere, you can make sure that there is plenty of airflow in the trailer and that animals are loaded loosely. Avoid packing them in too tight.

Overall, just do your best to keep the animals comfortable during the summer. Don’t work or rush them, offer plenty of water, minerals and shade, and be patient with them.

If you have questions, reach out to someone around you—whether it’s a vet or a local rancher/farmer. It will cool off soon enough. But in the meantime, go jump in the pond.

This article about heat stress in cows was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Farm & Garden

Drying Herbs: 5 Tips To Preserve Your Harvest

Drying herbs through the high season is a great way to take advantage of the abundance and have homegrown herbs on hand all year. Growing and drying your own herbs is incredibly cost-effective. A .6-ounce jar of organic dried basil is nearly $5 at the grocery store! 

For the best taste and texture, it’s recommended to dry herbs earlier in the season, before they bloom and start going to seed. But for most of us, we aren’t in the harvest/drying mindset until later in the growing season.

So, if you haven’t dried any herbs yet, don’t worry! Now is as good a time as ever to stock your pantry. Here are five tips for a successful harvest. 

1. Harvest in the Morning

Make sure you are harvesting at the right time of day to maximize the flavor of your dried herbs. Harvest herbs in the morning, after the dew has dried. Clip the younger, more tender growth from the plants.  

2. Wash Your Harvested Herbs

Wash herbs after harvesting. Soak in cold water briefly to perk them up and clean off any dirt/insects. Pat them dry with a lint-free towel, but stay mindful not to bruise/damage the herbs when doing so. Discard any damaged or bug-eaten areas. 

3. Use a Dehydrator

If using a food dehydrator for drying herbs, you’ll want to dry herbs on the lowest temperature the dehydrator will go, ideally 95 to 110°F.

Dry herbs in a single layer. Drying time varies by location and humidity in the air but will take several hours. Check occasionally to determine when done.

Put like-sized leaves/cuttings together since they will dry faster, and it’ll be easy to remove them as they become dry and leave the larger ones to continue drying.

4. Air Drying Herbs

If air-drying herbs, create small bundles of like kind to hang upside down. Hang out of direct sunlight. This method of drying will take several days. A location with airflow is ideal.  

5. Dry Completely

Make sure to dry herbs completely until the leaves easily crumble and stems easily snap. This will help to prevent mold. Store in airtight containers/jars out of direct sunlight. 

This article about five tips for drying herbs was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Waterfowl

Chickens vs Ducks: Are Ducks the New Chicken?

Ducks vs. chickens: You have probably heard many backyard flock enthusiasts refer to ducks as the “new chicken.” Ducks and chickens are not birds of the same feather; learn more as we dive into what makes ducks genuinely unique.

Family Matters

Did you know ducks and chickens are not related? That’s right. Ducks are members of the waterfowl family (think wild ducks, geese, swans and loons) and chickens are members of the pheasant family.

backyard ducks enjoying a swim in a baby pool
Erin Snyder

Water Lovers

One of the most noticeable differences when comparing ducks vs. chickens is a duck’s love of water. Unlike their chicken cousins, who detest getting wet, nothing makes a duck happier than splashing in a kiddie pool.

Ducks require a bucket to submerge their heads daily to clean their eyes and airways. They also require swimming in a kiddie pool several times weekly to keep their feathers clean.

Duck vs. Chicken Fact: Did you know? Mature laying hens drink an average of one pint of water daily, while adult ducks drink as much as one-half gallon of water. Both species require clean drinking water changed twice daily for optimal health.

A Messy House

Ducks are notorious for turning a clean, dry coop into a wet, messy disaster overnight. Unlike their chicken cousins, ducks can’t go without water overnight, so duck owners have no choice but to deal with a messy coop.

Duck vs. Chicken Fact: A duck’s messy lifestyle is not ideal for a chicken. Wet living conditions can make chickens ill, so housing the two species separately is advised.

Nutritional Differences

Ducks require different nutritional needs than chickens. Laying ducks require more protein, crude fat and niacin than chickens to lay eggs. Adult ducks’ nutritional differences can often be balanced by allowing them access to green pastures and supplementing their diet with Brewer’s yeast to ensure they receive enough niacin.

Ducklings also require more nutrition than chicks to grow healthy and strong. The best way to ensure your duckings stay healthy is by feeding them feed formulated for ducklings.

Duck vs. Chicken Fact: Ducklings require twenty percent more niacin than chicks.

Predator Protection

Just like chickens, ducks need protection from predators. The best way to protect your duck flock from a predator attack is to cover the run sides, roof, and coop windows with a half-inch 16-gauge hardware cloth and attach predator skirts to deter digging. Leave no gap bigger than ½ inch in either your coop or run. House all poultry in a coop with a wooden or cement floor.

Only allow ducks to free range if directly supervised by an adult.

Duck vs. Chicken Fact: Unlike chickens, ducks can’t fly into a tree to avoid a fox. They also lack sharp beaks and spurs that many chickens use to attack a predator.

Eggs, Eggs, Eggs

Duck vs. chicken eggs is a popular debate among backyard flock owners. Unlike their chicken cousins, ducks usually lay their eggs in the morning, saving you from needing to search the run for eggs. While duck eggs are significantly larger than chicken eggs, the egg size comes at a price. Each duck requires two cups of feed daily, compared to one-half cup per chicken.

Ducks generally produce more eggs than laying hens; however, both species should stop to molt and overwinter before resuming laying in the spring.

Duck vs. Chicken Fact: An average duck egg weighs between seventy and eighty grams. Meanwhile, a chicken egg weighs between fifty and sixty grams.

Noise Please

Are ducks quieter than chickens? Ducks don’t sing an egg song or crow, but a duck cutting loose with a loud quack can carry a far distance and even echo.

Ducks are usually quieter than chickens, but this largely depends on the breed, as some are noisier than others.

Duck vs. Chicken Fact: While roosters are loud, drake ducks have a soft quack. However, a female duck’s deep quack can be very loud.

Ducky Behaviors

Ducks vs. chickens behaviors vary greatly. From bobbing their heads and hours spent preening to stunning courtship displays, ducks continue to fascinate us with their behaviors. But why do ducks do these behaviors?

Courtship Displays

Drakes perform courtship displays to attract a mate, but they will also perform them for their favorite humans. Drakes twist their bodies in various movements, splash water with their bills, and whistle, showing off their curly tail feathers and wing speculums (the blue wing patch found on Mallards and other gray ducks like Rouens).

Most courtship displays occur when ducks are courting in the fall and winter, but some drakes will perform year-round.

Duck vs. Chicken Fact: Unlike a rooster with a flock of multiple hens, many drakes prefer having only one female.

Preening Time

When watching ducks vs. chickens preening, the difference is astounding. Chickens spend minutes a day preening, while ducks spend hours. As members of the waterfowl family, ducks must protect their feathers with a sticky oil found in the gland at the base of their tail. This oil protects ducks from the elements, including waterproofing them.

Duck vs. Chicken Fact: Chickens also have an oil gland at the base of their tails, but their feathers are only water-repelling.

Head Bobs

Ducks bob their heads to communicate with other ducks. What they say to each other depends on how high their heads are positioned and how fast or slow they move their heads. Let’s break down some common headbobs.

Slow Two Duck Headbob: When two ducks slowly bob their heads up and down at each other, this behavior signifies a courtship display.

Fast Bill to the Ground Headbob: When a duck performs a fast bill to the ground headbob, the duck is angry. This behavior is usually accompanied by aggressive quacking and is only performed by female ducks.

Submissive Headbob: Female ducks perform a submissive headbob when greeting ducks higher in the pecking order or their mate.

Ducks may not be the “new chicken,” but they offer backyard poultry enthusiasts as many eggs and countless hours of entertainment as their chicken cousins. So, if you’re comparing duck vs chicken for your flock, why not try both?

This article was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Waterfowl

Ducks in the Garden: Perfect Companions

Ducks in the garden are becoming increasingly popular. Tough on pests and easy on plants, ducks have won the hearts of many gardeners.

Why Ducks?

With their cheerful faces and happy quacks, it’s easy to see why many people fall in love with ducks, but their sweet nature isn’t why many gardeners have employed ducks.

Ducks are excellent at pest control and, if given the opportunity, will rid a garden of slugs, Japanese beetles, and other harmful pests.

Many gardeners prefer keeping ducks versus chickens as ducks do not scratch up tender vegetation like their chicken cousins.

Safety First

Before allowing ducks to free-range in the garden, consider these safety tips.

  • Only allow ducks out to graze when you are there to supervise them directly. This eliminates the chance of a predator attacking your flock.
  • Consider setting up a puppy playpen to prevent ducks from wandering too far from the garden. Small animal playpens also work well for this. However, playpens are not predator-proof, so only use them in the garden when you’re with the flock.
  • When working in raised beds, surround the perimeter with portable fencing to prevent ducks from falling or jumping out of the garden. This is important as ducks can easily injure or break their legs when jumping.
  • If you allow ducks to overwinter in the garden, housing them in a chicken tractor during daylight hours will benefit your garden soil while keeping your flock safe. Attaching predator skirts to prevent digging predators makes the experience even safer.
  • Do not allow ducks in a garden that has been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or harmful fertilizer.

Choosing a Garden Companion

All duck breeds enjoy helping in the garden, but some breeds are exceptional at removing pests.  Ideal breeds for the small backyard gardener include Ancona, Indian Runner, Khaki Campbell, Pekin and Welsh Harlequin.

Of all the breeds listed above, the Pekin is the most recommended. While Pekins are often overlooked for pest control, these darling ducks are exceptionally good in the garden as they don’t stray too far from home, like to stick close to their favorite human and are excellent at bug control,

However, if your garden has expanded into a several-acre plot or orchard, choosing a more active breed, such as an Indian Runner or Swedish, is advised.

Indian Runners are a common choice for large garden plots, while Swedish ducks are a popular choice for orchardists. Both breeds love to forage and are happiest when allowed to free range, trimming weeds and grasses and feasting on harmful pests.

Note: Swedish ducks can fly, so their wings need to be trimmed to keep them close to home.

Keep Away Slugs

Gardeners keep ducks in the garden for many reasons, but slugs are among the most popular. Slugs destroy the garden by chewing holes in plants and leaves, weakening the plant. Plants attacked by slugs often die or produce fewer fruits and vegetables.

When allowed in the garden, ducks happily devour any slugs they can get their bills on. Their ability to rid the garden of slugs has made keeping ducks in the garden popular in Great Britain, where wet conditions result in slug infestations.

However, if you want to rid the garden of slugs but prefer to keep ducks out, building a slug trap can quickly resolve a slug problem.

Making a DIY slug trap is an easy and effective way to remove slugs from your garden. Lay a piece of cardboard, patio blocks, or untreated wood around the perimeter of your garden, paying close attention to areas with high slug infestations (think lettuce and strawberries).

Check the traps for slugs and other bugs every morning. To feed, use a trowel and scrape the slugs into your ducks’ food bowl. Set the food bowl down and watch your ducks enjoy a feeding frenzy.

Protecting Plants From Webbed Feet

Protecting plants from webbed feet has never been easier. Ducks are much easier on plants than chickens. Unlike their chicken cousins, ducks don’t scratch through newly planted vegetation, destroying all plant life.

When working in the garden, our ducks usually nibble on the lettuce and other leafy greens, but their main focus is looking for bugs. However, we always keep the ducks out of the garden until plants have matured enough to withstand trampling from webbed feet.

Using portable fencing is another great way to fence ducks into a small portion of the garden, or it can also be used to fence off any vegetation you don’t want your ducks getting into.

Keep Water Out

The best way to prevent ducks from destroying the garden is to keep water out. Ducks love water and can quickly turn a beautiful garden into a muddy mess.

Avoid watering the garden for several hours before allowing ducks access. Place a water bucket for your ducks to drink from at the garden’s edge where they can easily access it without destroying plant life.

Goodbye, Beetles

Junebugs, Japanese beetles and Colorado Potato beetles are just a few of the beetles ducks love to eat. Allowing ducks supervised free-ranging time will help reduce harmful beetles feasting on the plants.

Have some beetles that are out of your duck’s reach? Simply handpick the beetles and store them in a freezer-safe bag in the freezer. Once the bugs become sluggish, remove them from the freezer and feed them to your ducks. You can also feed completely frozen beetles to ducks.

Companionship

Nothing beats spending some garden time with your favorite web-footed friends. Even weeding the garden is more fun with a flock of ducks by your side. Ducks will keep you entertained with their happy chatter and antics while removing harmful pests from plants and the soil.

So, next time you pull weeds or pick beans, why not let the ducks out to help you?

This article about ducks in the garden was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.