Categories
Poultry

Can Rabbits and Chickens Live Together?

Can rabbits and chickens live together? In the world of livestock, chickens are the easiest animal to raise on the farm or homestead and usually the starting point for most homesteaders. One other homestead animal that rivals the chicken in ease of care is the rabbit.

In general, rabbit care is quite easy, and we’ll explore the details of tending to these adorable critters in this article. The good news is that chickens and rabbits can—and often do—cohabitate on a homestead harmoniously. With a few precautions, of course, you can reap the rewards of caring for both on your land.

Plucky Personalities

At the risk of sounding obvious, remember that chickens are birds, and rabbits are part of the animal family logomorpha. (They were previously considered rodents, but that was updated in 1912). This quite simply means that the needs of these two species are different—sometimes very different. While they can live together copacetically, we must never forget that they have different instincts, behaviors and social structures, and this fact alone will determine how we best care for them.

With that said, there is one very distinct difference and one very important similarity between the two upon which we can base most of our decisions. The difference is that unless they’re mating or raising a litter, rabbits are mostly solitary animals.

Does (females) and bucks (males) left together will mate constantly, so the two must be kept separate until you are ready and able to prepare for kits (young bunnies). A pair or trio of just does, or just bucks, might coexist happily if raised together as kits and as long as the does aren’t raising a litter of kits themselves.

Chickens, on the other hand, are very social and must be kept in family groups—flocks—or they’ll be terribly unhappy. Typically, a flock comprises a number of hens, with or without  a single rooster. Roosters also mate daily with hens, but because hens lay eggs (and presumably you collect them daily), chicks won’t hatch unless you let a broody hen sit on fertilized ones for 21 days or you raise the eggs in an incubator.

The big similarity between rabbits and chickens? They are both vulnerable prey animals, with comparatively few defenses. This is an absolute that we can always assume, and it will serve you, the keeper, well. Bank on the fact that they will be hunted by any and all predators in your area, and they know this, so they act accordingly. This is quite possibly the fact that most informs the behavior of chickens and rabbits. Why is this so important when it comes to rabbit care? How they respond to stress or fear is how they react to you, and that determines how we provide rabbit care, protection and housing.

Can Rabbits and Chickens Live Together? A Hutch Is a Home

Like chickens, rabbits require specific housing that meets their needs. You might notice many chicken coops and rabbit hutches are sold by manufacturers interchangeably, and admittedly one could sub for the other in a pinch. On our homestead, we’ve used a rabbit hutch as temporary housing for a sick or injured hen, and even a broody hen; this is certainly a pro to keeping both species.

If you already keep chickens, you know that a predator-proof coop is an absolute must. A locking door with a latch that is secured at night, a solid roof, hardware cloth mesh across doors and windows, and good ventilation are but a few undeniable requirements of a good coop. And you can apply all of those features to a rabbit hutch as well.

If you plan to have a doe raise kits, you’ll even want her to have a nest box. A big difference between chickens and rabbits regarding the coop is that chickens roost at night up high while rabbits’ instincts tell them to burrow low. You can also count on rabbits and chickens depositing their waste in a predictable place: Chickens usually defecate the most at night, while roosting. Rabbits pick a favorite spot, either in the hutch or in their own run, to do their business. This predictability helps with our cleanup efforts, too.

So when considering can rabbits and chickens live together, where do we begin constructing housing? What should we look for? When shopping for or devising plans to build a rabbit hutch or a chicken coop, look at how each is made. Notice the differences: You’ll see how each is designed with the instincts of the animal in mind.

rabbit hutch
Lefebvre Alain/Shutterstock

Hutches are typically raised off the ground to keep rabbits safe from predators. The flooring is part solid and part mesh. With furry, padded feet, rabbits fare better on mesh flooring than their poultry counterparts, which are more prone to foot ailments as time goes on. But they also need something solid upon which to rest those feet and to give them the sense of security similar to a dark burrow.

Chickens and rabbits have incredibly sensitive respiratory systems, and rabbit urine is particularly caustic. If the hutch is located within a closed barn or larger chicken coop, excellent ventilation (and consistent cleaning) must be one of your top priorities.

Once the fundamental physical needs of each separate animal are met, it’s important to consider the behavioral needs. Rabbits need to retreat to a dark, cozy space that is private and safe. But they also love to stretch their legs and frolic. How can you best meet those needs in your setup and also accommodate your chickens? Much depends on your own homestead and the structures you work with, but remember that proper rabbit care requires a safe haven. They should have the freedom to move but accessibility to their own hutch to hide at all times.

Nutrition Basics

Now, let’s talk food. Remember that we’re blending species from different walks of life, artificially, on the same land. While ground fowl and wild hares forage for their meals, what they forage for is sometimes quite different. Chickens left to free-range look for the juiciest, tastiest, bounciest bugs; as omnivores, chickens forage for a fair amount of animal protein in addition to the greens they seek on pasture. Rabbits, on the other hand, are strictly herbivores. They eat mostly grasses, seeds and fruits.

The domesticated versions of these animals naturally require different diets, too. What we feed them is determined by their life stage and circumstances. Domesticated chickens are often fed a commercial ration designed for their needs: young chicks, meat birds and laying hens have slightly different nutritional requirements and must be fed accordingly.

On a perfect homestead, the flock has unlimited access to rotating pasture lands that make up the bulk of their diet. Treats are offered in moderation, and supplements, such as oyster shells for the extra calcium that laying hens require, plus grit, for helping to break up predigested food, are at the ready.

Nearly all domesticated rabbits, whether raised for fiber, meat or as pets, can be fed roughly the same commercial ration: a high-quality pelleted feed designed for rabbits. As with all animals, variety is a key to optimum health, so supplement that feed with daily greens (such as lettuce), unlimited Timothy hay availability, and a few fruits and other treats in moderation. If you raise rabbits for meat, you’ll probably want to be choosy with the quality of feed and supplements you offer; you are what your animal eats, after all.

There’s one more important element of rabbit care to discuss. Like cats, rabbits continually groom themselves, and, also like cats, they ingest a bit of their own fur. Unlike cats, however, rabbits are not capable of coughing up any ingested fur that gets stuck or blocked in the form of a hairball. This is one of the main considerations of care for your rabbits, and many rabbit-keepers utilize dried pineapple and papaya fruits as a supplement to aid their rabbits in passing the excess fur.

Blockages can happen quickly and be quite dangerous, so having these supplements on hand at all times is a wise preparation. Pineapple and papaya fruits contain enzymes that help rabbits break down the fibers of their own fur—helping it to pass successfully. Many times, rabbits prefer the dried version (without sugar, of course), and it keeps longer, too. If you raise rabbits for fiber, this is doubly important—as is a good grooming routine on your part. The animals’ having access to Timothy hay daily will help here as well.

Most importantly, chicken and rabbit food should be kept separate and only accessible to the species it is meant for. One way you can manage this is by keeping the chicken feed suspended in a hanging feeder, at the height accessible for adult poultry. Water should not be shared between the species, so keep these fonts separate and only accessible to the animal it is meant for.

Health Considerations

It’s lovely and idyllic to imagine frolicking rabbits and sweetly clucking hens coexisting in a seeming homestead utopia, but there are health risks to keeping these two species together. Pasteurella multocida, streptococcosis, coccidiosis and, most concerning, salmonella, represent the highest possibilities of sharing disease between species. Salmonella, particularly, can make your rabbits very sick. Chickens will probably defecate in the rabbit’s food or water at some point if kept housed together, so smart setups and cleanliness are critical to keep disease at bay.

When thinking about can rabbits and chickens live together, remember that flocks of ground fowl and burrowing animals behave very differently. Chickens might see a wayward rabbit as a threat (especially a fast, jumpy rabbit) and might attempt to harm it or drive it away. Chickens can be quite brutal to outsiders or anything they perceive as a threat, and it’s possible that a flock could kill a rabbit. Smaller pet rabbits (vs. large meat breeds) are particularly at risk here and should always have a safe place separate from the chickens—if they’re not housed separately all the time. No matter your setup, rabbits should be kept separate from very small, fragile chicks.

As sweet as it seems, allowing rabbits to pasture is not the same as allowing chickens to graze untethered. A flock of chickens always comes home to roost and does it so predictably that you can set your clock by it.

Rabbits, on the other hand, are not so reliable, and if you leave them to free-range you might find yourself chasing unhappy rabbits at dusk every night. These behavioral tendencies are worth considering as you set up housing. Most rabbit hutches are open along the bottom, allowing access to grass below. Much like a chicken tractor, you can move this hutch daily to give your rabbits ample time on grass.

A fenced run could also be extended from the rabbit hutch and might or might not include the chickens while grazing. As always, more space is better than less for chickens. But if you give rabbits more space than you have eyes to manage it, you might leave your bunnies susceptible to predator attacks or escaping the enclosure.

Always keep rabbits in some type of fenced enclosure, even while they’re ranging. One indisputable fact of both chicken and rabbit care: A high level of good hygiene on your part always benefits both species and drastically reduces chances of illness and the spread of disease.

When considering can rabbits and chickens live together in a cohabitation situation, weigh the pros and cons as well as the risks and benefits, and know your own homestead’s layout and where everything will fit before bringing home any animals. Only you know whether it will be successful or detrimental in your space. Follow the rules of nutrition basics and housing needs, always watch for predators, and you can successfully keep chickens and rabbits together for years to come.

Chicken & Rabbit Manure

As a fertilizer, chicken manure is “hot” and needs to break down before you use it in the garden. Rabbit manure, on the other hand, is “cool,” which is to say that it can go straight into the garden. Both manures make great supplements for gardening when composted correctly, such as a compost tea.

This story about can rabbits and chickens live together originally appeared in the January/February 2019 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Chickens 101

Poultry Showmanship: 5 Tips for Success

Poultry showmanship is the culmination of a process that starts with good animal husbandry and hard work. Here are five tips to hone your skills.

New Poultry Showmanship Guidelines

A new guideline, however, is slowly changing the face of poultry showmanship across the country, making it more inclusive. Country fairs on the local and regional levels have begun to add an adult division, allowing participants ages 18 and older to compete in showmanship. This exciting development gives adults another poultry competition option at country fairs, which traditionally only permit seniors to exhibit birds.

Allowing adults to participate in showmanship also turns this into a family event, one that parents and children can enjoy together.  

Not all local fairs offer this option for adults yet. 4-H, being geared specifically toward kids, will most likely restrict its competitive offerings to youth. If you are interested in having an adult poultry showmanship division at your fair, contact your fair office and ask for the contact information for the poultry superintendent. Reach out to the superintendent and explain how an adult showmanship division would not only benefit local poultry keepers and their families but also the fair itself. You never know what can happen until you try.  

Whatever age the showmanship competitor in your household may be, keep these five pointers in mind to make the experience even more positive.

Befriend Your Show Chickens

Having all the poultry physiology knowledge in the world won’t help you if your cockerel or pullet is uncooperative. Showmanship birds are not only held, they’re manipulated and even turned upside down as you describe their anatomy to the judge.

Skittish, agitated show chickens will make showmanship competition almost impossible. It’s therefore crucial to befriend your bird from Day One.

Get your show chicken accustomed to your presence. Hold it, stroke its feathers, and talk to it. It’s vital that your bird become used to hearing your voice while in your arms. Once you’ve reached this stage, move on to gently turning your chicken tummy up, stroking its belly and speaking to it reassuringly. When your bird is comfortable with this type of handling, it’s time to start practicing your showmanship presentation with it—including placing it in and removing it from a show cage head first so that this routine becomes fluid and ingrained for both of you.  

Study the Show Chicken Standards 

Familiarize yourself with the American Poultry Association’s Standards of Perfection for your show chicken’s breed and variety. Learn to identify traits that are specific to your bird:

  • type of comb
  • color of earlobes, beak, eyes and shanks
  • number of toes
  • pattern and color of the feathers
  • size and hue of its eggs
  • average hen and rooster sizes and weights
  • breed’s temperament
  • other facts and information about the breed

If your show chicken deviates from any of the Standards, learn to identify these as well. When you are presenting to the judge, you will need to share all this information to demonstrate your knowledge of and familiarity with your chosen breed.  

Interact with the Judge 

Showmanship judges prefer competitors who can clearly and comfortably converse with them. A touch of nerves is understood, but totally freezing up and resorting to monosyllables is not (except perhaps from the youngest novice juniors). Be sure to make regular eye contact with your judge, stand comfortably, and speak in a clear, polite voice.

Regular practice in front of family and friends will help put you more at ease with your presentation. Have a loved one ask questions as you practice to better prepare you for competition day.  

Dress to Impress 

Even though the main point of showmanship is to demonstrate your poultry expertise, first impressions do set the tone for your presentation. A competitor dressed in blue jeans and a T-shirt will not impress the judges the same way as a neatly groomed presenter dressed in business-casual clothes topped with a white lab coat.

Many fairs and 4-H festivals require competitors to wear white lab coats, so it’s best to wear one—clean and neatly pressed—regardless of the event’s requirements.

And remember to wear clean footwear. You’re not expected to wear dress loafers or high heels at the fairgrounds, but don’t arrive wearing mud- and muck-spattered boots.  

Self Improvement Is Key

Very few showmanship competitors receive perfect scores. Because of this, many judges will take time after the event to answer questions, offer advice, and give guidance to participants. After all, showmanship is about improving your poultry knowledge … and we all have room for improvement.

Take whatever post-event opportunity your judge offers to learn what you can do to improve your presentation and how you handle your bird. If your score was low, ask what mistakes you made and what the necessary corrections are. Some judges will offer this information to participants immediately following their presentation. Take notes if you can!

Remember above all that your judge’s critiques are meant to help you grow as a competitor and poultry specialist, not demoralize you. Thank them for their feedback on your show chickens and incorporate their suggestions to better prepare you for your next showmanship competition.

This article about poultry showmanship was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Recipes

Watermelon Rum Cooler with Juice Cubes

A rum cooler is a popular and yummy drink made even better with homemade juice cubes. Made from your favorite juices, these cubes are a great way to preserve fresh juice in the form of ice cubes. These juice cubes can then be used to flavor water or your favorite fruity drink. This cocktail uses ice cubes made with fresh mint grown in the garden and the last watermelons of the season but it can be customized for individual tastes using other juice and herb combinations.

Homemade Juice Cubes

Juice Cube Ingredients

  • 2½ cups watermelon chunks
  • 15 fresh mint leaves

Juice Cube Preparation

Make the ice cubes at least six hours before you’re ready to use them in cocktails or other recipes. Feed the watermelon and the mint leaves into an electric juicer. Make sure to alternate between a few pieces of melon and a few mint leaves at a time. Stir the blended juice. Fill a standard 24-piece ice cube tray with the juice and freeze until firm.

Watermelon Rum Cooler Cocktail Recipe

Yield: 4 rum cooler cocktails

Rum Cooler Cocktail Ingredients

  • 1 lime, quartered
  • 20 fresh mint leaves
  • 6 cups watermelon chunks, juiced (makes about 24 ounces)
  • 4 ounces white rum
  • 24 ounces of club soda

Rum Cooler Cocktail Preparation

Muddle one-quarter lime and five mint leaves in each of four 16-ounce pint glasses. Remove the mashed lime rind from the glasses. In each glass, pour in six ounces of watermelon juice and one ounce of white rum. Top it off with six ounces of club soda. Stir the ingredients a few times to mix. Add four juice cubes to each glass and serve immediately. Garnish the glass with a sprig of mint and slice of lime to add to a festive flair.

This watermelon rum cooler recipe made with homemade juice cubes was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Equipment

Used Farm Equipment for Sale: 5 Tips for Purchasing

Purchasing used farm equipment for sale can be a cost-effective strategy for hobby farmers looking to expand their capabilities without breaking the bank.

Used farm equipment for sale—even old equipment that is no longer cutting-edge—can perform admirably for years, especially if you take good care of it. But before you dive in and purchase the first machine you see listed in an online ad, let us help you make sound buying decisions by sharing five tips for purchasing used farm equipment:

#1 See the Equipment In Operation Before Purchasing

If purchasing from a private seller, try to schedule a visit to see the used equipment in operation before you commit to buying. Just because a machine was running fine when last used four years ago doesn’t mean it will still work after four years of aging/weathering/rusting. Request to see the main features in action; maybe you want to test the front-end loader of a tractor or see a hay baler tie a knot.

Seeing the equipment in operation also gives you a chance to examine it from all sides and check for general signs of age and wear, which might be more evident in person than in photos. You can also get an idea of whether the equipment has been stored under cover or out in the open.

#2 Determine If the Equipment Can Be Professionally Serviced

This will depend in large part on the age and brand of the equipment you’re purchasing, but if it’s possible to have used equipment professionally serviced in your area, that’s a nice positive. If you’re considering purchasing a 15-year-old John Deere garden tractor and there’s a John Deere dealer in your area that can service it, that’s a nice reassurance, particularly if you’re uncomfortable with DIY repairs.

#3 Check How Easily Replacement Parts Can Be Acquired

If you’re considering purchasing very old equipment—say, a hay rake or hay baler that is decades old—it’s worth researching the model number to determine how (or if) replacement parts can be purchased. Are there part numbers you can reference? Are some/all of the most important and/or delicate parts still manufactured? You might be surprised at how many obscure old parts can still be purchased, so long as you can figure out what you’re shopping for.

Also, can you acquire an instruction or service manual for the equipment? These old booklets can provide a wealth of information for troubleshooting any problems that arise.

#4 Consider Buying Equipment Similar to What You Already Own

Suppose you’ve used a particular piece of equipment for years, but now it’s suffered major damage and repairing it wouldn’t be cost-effective. If it’s a common model, and you like how it performs, you might consider replacing it with an identical model. Then your broken one can serve as a source of replacement parts for your new one.

#5 Go Bigger and Get a Warranty

While it’s tempting to hunt for deals from individual sellers, you should also consider purchasing from dealers that buy and sell used equipment on a regular basis, especially if it’s a pricier machine that you’ll use heavily. Such dealers may inspect and restore equipment, then offer a warranty to guarantee that the equipment will operate as intended for a certain period of time. You’ll pay more, of course, but if peace of mind is paramount it may be worthwhile.

By following these five tips for purchasing used farm equipment for sale, you’ll be well on your way to acquiring reliable machines that will suit your needs for years to come.

This article about how to purchase used farm equipment for sale was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

Oyster Shells for Chickens for Strong Eggshells

Oyster shells for chickens can help them to lay eggs with stronger eggshells. While we don’t often think about the purpose, composition or strength of eggshells, there are serious implications associated with the structural integrity of an eggshell, including hen health, the viability of a developing chick and even human health.

Calcium Conundrum

Eggshells consist primarily of calcium. For a hen to make an egg, she needs calcium from somewhere. However, most of us stop thinking about it after we purchase a bag of oyster shells and a commercial layer feed that contains calcium.

Why should we offer oyster shells for chickens along with this layer feed? A second source of calcium should be available to support the health of the hen in addition to helping her create strong eggshells.

Many people feed the cleaned, dried eggshells back to their laying flock instead of oyster shells, believing this will accomplish the same objective. However, that is not the case, and the reason relates primarily to size.

Let’s take a deeper look at why laying hens need oyster shells in their diet and why offering eggshells back to them does not offer the same benefits to hen health and shell strength.

Oyster Shells for Chickens: Food and Health

Chickens and humans are different in a lot of ways, but we’re similar in that what we eat affects our health as well as how our bodies perform various functions. As any woman who has struggled with fertility issues knows, diet affects egg production and egg quality; similarly, a hen’s egg production and quality are affected by her diet.

A hen, however, is much more sensitive to getting her daily nutritional needs met than a woman, for a variety of factors including a hen’s distinct anatomy, her high metabolism and because she produces many eggs each month rather than just one. For a hen to be healthy and make strong eggshells, she must have access to precise amounts of specific nutrients—most notably, calcium—in specific forms, at particular times throughout each roughly 24-hour period.

Eggshells are approximately 95 percent calcium carbonate. To produce an eggshell, the calcium must come from a hen’s diet. In fact, a laying hen must consume approximately 4 grams of calcium per day to get the 2 grams of calcium needed to make one eggshell, which is three times more dietary calcium than required by nonlaying hens.

The most common sources of calcium carbonate fed to laying hens are crushed limestone and oyster shells. Commercially prepared layer feeds ordinarily contain crushed limestone, while oyster shells for chickens are usually offered as a supplement in a dispenser or hopper alongside the feed. I offer oyster shells to my hens free-choice to allow each hen to regulate the intake to meet her specific calcium needs.

bowl of oyster shells for chickens

Calcium carbonate must be broken down into its calcium and carbonate components in the hen’s intestine before being absorbed into the bloodstream, where it’s delivered directly to the shell gland (the uterus); any extra is then stored in the hen’s bones.

Laying hens store calcium in specialized bones called medullary bones. Think of a medullary bone like a sponge filled with calcium that is encased inside a hard, hollow bone. The hard bone is the cortical bone, which is responsible for strength and stability.

If a laying hen doesn’t have calcium trickling into her bloodstream while making an eggshell, she will steal it from the calcium stash inside her cortical bones. This calcium theft can cause brittle bones that fracture easily (osteoporosis), and in the most severe cases, the inability to stand, which is known as caged-layer fatigue.

stack of broken chicken egg shells

Shell to Shell

It pains me to break some of my hens’ colorful masterworks, intentionally or unintentionally, but when I do, it’s a consolation to know that I can feed the clean, dry, crushed shells back to the ladies for use in making new shells. However, feeding eggshells back to a hen is not sufficient to supply her with the resources she needs to create new, strong eggshells and to remain healthy.

Mixing clean, air-dried eggshells into oyster shells for chickens is fine, but eggshells, much like crushed limestone in the feed, are a fast-release source of calcium, which isn’t available to a hen during the most calcium-demanding portion of eggshell production: at night while she’s sleeping. The take-home message: Eggshells offered with oyster shell are fine but aren’t a sufficient source of supplemental calcium by themselves.

Oyster Shells for Chickens: Size & Timing Matters

The time it takes for most food particles to pass through a chicken’s digestive tract is approximately 90 minutes. When a hen is awake and eating layer feed, crushed limestone dissolves into her bloodstream quickly, getting where it needs to go. However, it takes approximately 25 hours for a hen to construct an egg. Eighteen to 20 of these hours are dedicated to shell formation, the bulk of which occurs at night while she is sleeping. Do you see where we’re going with this? When a hen is asleep, she is not eating and therefore doesn’t have access to the calcium in her feed to use for building the shell. That is a major problem because while building an eggshell, a hen can use and replace the calcium she carries in her bloodstream as many as 100 times.

So, what’s a girl to do in the middle of the night when she craves calcium on the graveyard shift? While she won’t stop making the eggshell without crushed limestone in her bloodstream, she will continue building the eggshell to the detriment of her own health with calcium she pillages from her bones to finish the job. That is unless—cue the dramatic music—she has a second source of slow-release calcium to tap into late at night.

The large particles of oyster shells serve as a slow-release source of calcium for a hen. They sit in her gizzard, where they are ground up gradually throughout the night for use as the hen needs them. If you pay attention to your laying hens just prior to roosting time each night, you will notice that they pick up pieces of oyster shell, readying themselves for their night job.

Strength Equals Health

A hen cares about eggshell strength, and so should we. Let’s remember that the purpose of eggs is to make more chickens, not breakfast food. If fertilized by a rooster, the contents of an egg can contribute to the perpetuation of the species. For a fertilized egg to have a chance at developing into a healthy chick, it must be protected from harm, including bacteria sneaking in through an eggshell’s approximately 7,000 to 17,000 pores. A strong eggshell is a critical defense against threats to the survival of a developing embryo. That’s a lot of pressure on a hen to make a quality product.

Most eggs laid in today’s world are destined for human consumption. Why should we care about eggshell strength? Two words: food safety.

When we think about eggs and food safety, we often concern ourselves with issues such as whether an egg is clean or dirty when collected, washed or unwashed, and stored in the refrigerator or on the countertop. Defending an egg’s contents against bacterial invasion is an eggshell’s primary function, and a strong eggshell is an important defense against bacteria getting into our food.

Here’s a quick test for eggshell strength you can try at home with the kids. Crack an eggshell on a bowl, and take a look at the resulting break. Did the shell break in a straight, clean line or was it jagged and haphazard? A clean break signals a strong eggshell while a jagged or messy break suggests the need to reassess the hen’s diet with a close look at the sources and forms of her calcium intake.

This story about oyster shells for chickens originally appeared in the May/June 2018 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Recipes

Turmeric Pickled Eggs: Preserve the Laying Season

Turmeric pickled eggs are a great way to preserve eggs while they are abundant before your chickens start to moltYou can freeze eggs, but my favorite way to preserve eggs is to pickle them since they last for months.  

Yield: 1 pint jar 

Turmeric Pickled Eggs – Ingredients

Main
  • 5 to 6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled 
  • 1 tbsp. ground turmeric 
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed 
  • 10 whole black peppercorns 
  • 1 jalapeño, sliced (optional) 
Brine
  • 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar 
  • 1/2 cup water 
  • 2 tsp. canning salt 

Turmeric Pickled Eggs – Instructions 

Add the peeled hardboiled eggs and the remaining ingredients to a clean pint jar. 

Heat the brine ingredients to a simmer and stir until the salt is dissolved. 

Carefully pour the brine over the eggs until they are completely submerged. Wipe the rim of the jar clean with a dampened cloth to remove any spillage.  

Place the canning jar lid on the jar and tightly screw on the ring. Tip the jar upside down a few times to mix the ground turmeric with the brine. Transfer to the refrigerator. 

Allow your turmeric pickled eggs at least one week before tasting (or 48 hours if you can’t help yourself). 

Notes 

Be sure to thoroughly clean your space and supplies before pickling (as when doing any food preservation). Sterilize jars and wash lids.  

The longer eggs pickle in the vinegar solution, the more “rubbery” the texture of the egg white will become. Therefore, I recommend enjoying pickled eggs within three months for best texture.  

Small or medium eggs are preferred for pickling, as they fit into the jar better. Pint jars fit five to six eggs and quart jars fit 10 to 12. 

Use canning jars with shoulders (instead of wide-mouth jars) so that the shoulders help keep the eggs and other ingredients pushed down, underneath the brine.  

This story about turmeric pickled eggs was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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Uncategorized

What Chickens Lay Green Eggs? 4 Breeds to Consider

Chickens that lay green eggs have started to gain popularity in backyard flocks. In this guide, learn more about these extraordinary chickens, including temperament, color varieties, and egg production, to discover why these four breeds are gaining popularity.

#1 Olive Egger

Delightful and friendly, Olive Eggers are a popular breed choice for backyard flock owners who want chickens that lay green eggs. Olive Eggers are a cross between an Araucana or Ameraucana and a Marans. The cross between a blue egg-laying breed and a chocolate egg layer produces chicks that lay olive-green eggs. Now you know how this breed got its name!

Olive Egger hens are high producers, averaging 4 – 6 large/extra large eggs weekly (150 – 240 eggs annually). Eggs range in color from olive green or teal to khaki.

This breed is known for their friendly disposition. Olive Eggers are docile, easily handled, and enjoy interacting with people. Their calm personality makes them an ideal choice for novices and children. Hens rarely go broody, but they make exceptional mothers when they do.

While they are not exceptionally long-lived, Olive Eggers live an average of five to eight years (the average lifespan of most backyard breeds).

Color varieties: Olive Eggers come in shades of browns, grays, and blacks. Some individuals sport speckled or mottled feathers, while others do not.

#2 Green Queen

One of the rarest breeds of chickens that lay green eggs, the Green Queen is an ideal choice for those looking for a prolific green egg layer. Because they are hybrids, these chickens don’t breed true, making them a real surprise. Most Green Queen chickens sport a beard and muff, while others may have feathering on their legs and feet. Individuals of this breed may even have five toes.

Green Queen hens are good layers, averaging 4- 6 large eggs weekly (about 150 – 240 eggs annually). Most hens lay eggs in shades of green, but some will lay tinted or brown eggs since the breed doesn’t breed true.

Green Queen hens are cuddlier than other breeds and are known for their people-loving personalities. They get along well with humans and other chickens. However, their calm and docile personalities put them at a disadvantage when housed with more aggressive breeds.

A calm and hardy breed, the Green Queen is a good starter chicken for novice owners looking to start their backyard flock.

Average Lifespan: five to eight years.

Color Varieties: Comes in a wide array of colors, none of which breed true.

#3 Easter Egger

Did you know? Easter Eggers are the most common breed of chickens that lay green eggs. That’s right! Easter Eggers are among the most commonly found chickens in backyard flocks, rivaling even the Barred Plymouth Rock. So, what makes this breed popular?

Another colored egg layer hybrid, Easter Eggers do not breed true. This trait makes it impossible to breed for a feather or egg color, earning this breed its name. This breed is especially popular with children, who love the color varieties these chickens offer.

Easter Egger hens are excellent producers, averaging 4 – 6 large/extra large blue, green, or brown eggs weekly (250 – 280 eggs annually).  Easter Eggers rarely go broody as these hens were bred to lay an abundance of colored eggs, not hatch and raise chicks.

Friendly, calm, and sweet-natured, Easter Eggers thrive on human attention and snuggling on their favorite owner’s lap. However, their docile nature puts them at a disadvantage when housed with more aggressive breeds.

Average Lifespan: Five to eight years.

Color Varieties: Easter Eggers come in many colors, none of which breed true.

#4 Favaucana

The Goldendoodle of the chicken word, the Favaucana, is a cross between the Ameraucana and Salmon Faverolles. This breed possesses the calm and sweet personality of the Faverolles and the extreme cold-hardiness of the Ameraucana. Their cold-hardiness makes them ideal for those in colder climates desiring chickens that lay green eggs.

Favaucana hens are excellent layers, producing an average of 5 large sage green eggs weekly (about 250 – 300 eggs annually).

Calm, sweet, and docile, Favaucana chickens are an excellent breed for the novice. This breed does well in a mixed flock and shouldn’t be easily bullied. Favaucana hens go broody and make excellent mothers.

Average Lifespan: Five to eight years.

Color Varieties: Wheaten and Blue. (Even though the Favaucana has recognized colors, the American Poultry Association does not recognize this breed)

Note: Favaucanas and Green Queen chickens are rare breeds that are only available at select hatcheries.

While chickens that lay green eggs may not have as many breeds to choose from or be as popular as brown egg layers, they are starting to increase in popularity. If you want a green egg layer, these four delightful breeds are ideal for the novice or veteran backyard flock keeper.

This article about what chickens lay green eggs was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Podcast

Growing Good Podcast #83: Melissa Stewart, director of the West Virginia National Guard’s Patriot Guardens

Listen to Melissa Stewart’s story about the West Virginia National Guard’s Patriot Guardens program — the only agricultural unit embedded in a National Guard unit — and how it grew from an educational program to what it has become in 7 years: an urban farm in Charleston, a flock of laying hens, farmers markets, an orchard on reclaimed coal-mine land in Central West Virginia, a robust beekeeping program, business and marketing support, a composting project, family programming, and mental-health services. All grant-funded, Patriot Guardens is ever-evolving.

Melissa Stewart is the director of the West Virginia National Guard’s Patriot Guardens program.

Melissa talks about the ways this program is benefiting their military service people and veterans, with some seeing agriculture as a possible retirement plan, giving them an opportunity to continue to give back to their community after their military service. Hear about a success story of one participant who’s turned what he’s learned in the program into a thriving plant business. And Melissa gets emotional talking about why Patriot Guardens is important to her and the impact it has on their service members.

As a greenhouse production grower before becoming an Extension agent (and now working with Patriot Guardens), Melissa has a ton of experience using a range of gardening techniques. Listen to the end for Melissa’s advice on getting starting with aeroponics at home.

Links

Patriot Guardens on Facebook         Patriot Guardens website

 

 

Categories
Animals

5 Tips To Prevent Heat Stress in Cows

Heat stress in cows can be a real problem as summertime heat builds.  Extremely hot days with the glaring sun are only made bearable by the blowing breeze and the welcome cover of shade from nearby trees.

Different livestock animals possess unique features to help them survive and adapt to different environment. Cattle are no exception. But there are a few things we can do to make them a little more comfortable.

What kind of weather combination is so hard on cattle? Is it the sun and high temperatures that beat them down or is it high humidity?

It’s actually a combination of both.

Dry, 95°F heat, for example, is unpleasant but not unbearable. But it’s when that 95°F day is coupled with 80 percent humidity that lasts for a majority of the day that animals can become overloaded.

In The Cattle Health Handbook, author Heather Thomas notes that any air temperature above 80°F can cause heat stress when paired with 75 percent humidity. (That is, if it stays above 80°F 24 hours a day, even through the night.)

During High Heat, Look for Signs of Heat Stress in Cows

So how do you know if an animal has overheated?

What are some physical signs you look for? When visiting with a local rancher, he said that in extreme cases, you’ll notice:

  • rapid breathing
  • frothing at the mouth
  • possibly even the tongue hanging out

He mentioned that cattle will also pace back and forth, trying to find a cooler spot. Here are a few key things you can put in place to help make the summer season a bit more bearable for cattle.

1. Offer Plenty of Fresh, Cool Water

Water is a requirement for any season and time of the year. But during the summer, it’s critical.

According to Thomas, cattle need more than 4 gallons of water per 100 pounds of body weight, if the temperature is over 95 degrees. For a 500-pound animal, that’s over 20 gallons of water per day.

Water intake will vary depending on the kind of cattle you have, if they’re steers or lactating cows, etc.

As for water sources, if your cattle are dependent on a pond for their water supply, be sure to check it often. (If it’s not very large or is prone to leaking from time to time, check daily.) Also, have a backup plan ready just in case it goes dry. Different water sources include reliable streams or rivers, ponds or windmills.

A last resort is always to haul water to a stock tank. This can be a pain. But some way or another, you must make sure the cattle have plenty of water available at all times.

2. Provide Sunshades or Trees

For cattle in feedlots, sunshades are a great option to help give cattle a break from the golden rays. A couple of things to consider as you set up your shade are the location and size of shadow it will cast, and the material it is made of.

A shade would be best located toward the middle of a pen. There, it will be easily accessible as the shadow moves throughout the day.

3. Feed at the Correct Time

When feeding cattle during the summer, avoid feeding them in the heat of the day. Preferably, feed during the early morning and late evening.

Cattle produce heat as they digest forages and feed. So if not fed early enough in the day, they will end up digesting food midday during the peak of the heat.

Another advantage of feeding early is that cattle will be more willing to eat while it’s cooler out. As it heats up, they’ll pick around and eat less.

4. Provide Salt & Minerals

Just like people will drink sports drinks to get electrolytes, it’s important to help your cattle out by offering salt and mineral blocks in easily accessible areas.

Both sodium and minerals are lost through body fluids and sweating. If not replaced, cattle will fair even worse in the heat.

5. Let the Animals Rest

Move and work the cattle as little as possible during the heat of the day. Whether it is working and vaccinating them, walking them to a different location, or physically loading and transporting them, it’s best to wait until it cools off.

When hauling them somewhere, you can make sure that there is plenty of airflow in the trailer and that animals are loaded loosely. Avoid packing them in too tight.

Overall, just do your best to keep the animals comfortable during the summer. Don’t work or rush them, offer plenty of water, minerals and shade, and be patient with them.

If you have questions, reach out to someone around you—whether it’s a vet or a local rancher/farmer. It will cool off soon enough. But in the meantime, go jump in the pond.

This article about heat stress in cows was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Farm & Garden

Drying Herbs: 5 Tips To Preserve Your Harvest

Drying herbs through the high season is a great way to take advantage of the abundance and have homegrown herbs on hand all year. Growing and drying your own herbs is incredibly cost-effective. A .6-ounce jar of organic dried basil is nearly $5 at the grocery store! 

For the best taste and texture, it’s recommended to dry herbs earlier in the season, before they bloom and start going to seed. But for most of us, we aren’t in the harvest/drying mindset until later in the growing season.

So, if you haven’t dried any herbs yet, don’t worry! Now is as good a time as ever to stock your pantry. Here are five tips for a successful harvest. 

1. Harvest in the Morning

Make sure you are harvesting at the right time of day to maximize the flavor of your dried herbs. Harvest herbs in the morning, after the dew has dried. Clip the younger, more tender growth from the plants.  

2. Wash Your Harvested Herbs

Wash herbs after harvesting. Soak in cold water briefly to perk them up and clean off any dirt/insects. Pat them dry with a lint-free towel, but stay mindful not to bruise/damage the herbs when doing so. Discard any damaged or bug-eaten areas. 

3. Use a Dehydrator

If using a food dehydrator for drying herbs, you’ll want to dry herbs on the lowest temperature the dehydrator will go, ideally 95 to 110°F.

Dry herbs in a single layer. Drying time varies by location and humidity in the air but will take several hours. Check occasionally to determine when done.

Put like-sized leaves/cuttings together since they will dry faster, and it’ll be easy to remove them as they become dry and leave the larger ones to continue drying.

4. Air Drying Herbs

If air-drying herbs, create small bundles of like kind to hang upside down. Hang out of direct sunlight. This method of drying will take several days. A location with airflow is ideal.  

5. Dry Completely

Make sure to dry herbs completely until the leaves easily crumble and stems easily snap. This will help to prevent mold. Store in airtight containers/jars out of direct sunlight. 

This article about five tips for drying herbs was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.