Categories
Poultry

Heat Stress In Chickens: How to Recognize the Signs

Heat stress in chickens occurs when an imbalance exists between the heat that is produced by the body and the heat that is dissipated from the body. Environmental temperatures warmer than 80.6°F typically cause chickens to start to experience heat stress. Heat stress can be labeled in three different ways: acute heat stress, moderate heat stress and chronic heat stress. 

Acute heat stress lasts from one to 24 hours, moderate heat stress lasts around seven days and chronic heat stress lasts seven days or longer. These distinctions are important because birds are more likely to experience detrimental effects from heat stress the longer it goes on. Identifying specific heat stress behaviors within the flock is key so action can be taken quickly to minimize the potential damage.

How Birds Adapt 

Unlike humans, birds don’t have sweat glands. Instead, they dissipate heat through certain behavioral and physiological strategies. Panting, for example, allows the bird to transfer heat through respiratory evaporation. For this reason, one of the first heat stress indicators is panting. 

Birds also dissipate heat by pumping blood to the peripheral vascularized areas of the body like the skin, wattle and comb and reducing blood flow to other organs such as the intestinal tract. Keep an eye on their combs and wattles. Those parts of a bird’s body tend to be a brighter shade of red when temperatures soar. 

Reducing a chicken’s core body temperature is another mechanism poultry use to try to combat heat stress. Birds attempt to bring their body temperatures down by decreasing feed intake and increasing water intake. Reducing the amount of feed consumed allows for less metabolic heat to be produced while drinking more water helps to replenish water lost through panting. 

Normally birds drink about twice as much as they eat. However, when chickens experience heat stress, they drink five times as much! These physiological and behavioral changes help ensure birds’ survival in extreme heat.

You may also observe your birds performing certain behaviors when they are heat stressed, such as wing spreading and squatting along with reduced activity. Wing spreading is when a bird holds their wings away from their body to expose the areas that do not have any feathers. Doing this helps to dissipate body heat, especially when there is air movement.

Squatting is when birds place their body in contact with the ground to increase heat conduction. Observing these behaviors within your flock is an accurate indicator of heat stress. 

chickens heat stress
schankz/Adobe Stock

Heat Effects 

The physiological and behavioral changes that happen during heat stress can have a negative effect on health and production. As mentioned, heat-stressed birds dissipate heat by opening blood vessels in tissues such as the skin, wattle and comb and vasoconstricting blood from the intestinal tract. This limits the integrity of the intestinal tract and its function, as heat stress has been shown to reduce intestinal cells’ ability to absorb glucose. 

When this happens, less energy is being utilized by our birds and more nutrients are available for bad bacteria. Plus, the decrease in intestinal integrity means bacteria can move more easily from the gut into our birds’ bodies. Heat stress has also been shown to cause inflammation and oxidative stress, which can cause tissue damage in chickens.

These factors hurt performance and can lead to other types of challenges, such as summer molts or potential diseases. 

Heat stress also affects egg production and egg quality. Moderate and chronic heat stress causes excessive panting, which can decrease calcium and carbon dioxide pressure in the blood, thus increasing the blood’s pH. This change in blood chemistry can have a direct effect on bone strength and function as well as eggshell quality. 

The primary reason hens produce fewer eggs during hot temperatures is because they’re eating less feed. However, heat stress also disrupts the hormones responsible for egg laying. Plus, the reduction in blood calcium reduces eggshell quality. These factors are some of the reasons we see fewer eggs in the summer. 

Preventative Measures

As backyard chicken keepers, we can help reduce the negative effects of heat stress through certain nutritional and management strategies. Chickens eat less during high temperatures to reduce metabolic heat. To accommodate the decrease in feed intake, we can improve the quality of the feed. We can also provide a meal mixer that contains a higher amount of fats, quality protein and amino acids to support egg production and gut health.

Offering a pelleted diet has also been shown to help maintain egg production during the summer months. 

Other nutritional strategies include providing electrolytes, additional vitamins and minerals, and probiotics. Electrolytes help reduce the blood chemistry imbalances caused by panting, encourage water consumption and help increase tolerance to heat stress while supporting eggshell quality. 

Supplementing vitamins and minerals can also play a role in reducing the negative effects of heat stress by helping to reduce the antioxidant mechanisms that support nutrient transport. During heat stress, when birds are drinking a lot more than they are eating, adding these nutrients to water is a great way to support our chickens. Probiotics can also help reduce the negative effects of heat stress by alleviating oxidative stress and supporting gut morphology, integrity and nutrient utilization. 

To support your flock with nutritional changes, feed a high-quality diet, feed a pelleted feed and supplement with probiotics, vitamins and minerals, and electrolytes to avoid some of the negative effects of heat stress in the summer months. 

Management strategies play a big role in combatting heat stress for our flocks, too! Providing shelter and shaded areas, cooling fans, ventilation and sprinklers during hot summer months are highly beneficial, especially during extreme heat stress when squatting and wing spreading are observed. 

Heat stress can have serious consequences on the health and welfare of our chickens, especially if heat stress is chronic. By understanding how our poultry express signs of heat stress through their behaviors and physiology, we can intervene as soon as possible to help minimize the damage.

By implementing beneficial nutritional strategies such as adding supplements to the water and management strategies such as ventilating the coop, we can help ensure our birds beat the heat this summer. 

This article about heat stress in chickens originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals

How to Choose the Best Pasture Mates for Goats

Choosing pasture mates for goats is important for the safety of your goats and their companions – some mix well and some don’t.

On a personal note, when our Boer/Kiko wether, Huck, started limping, we knew Waylon was to blame. Waylon, the donkey that shares a pasture with our little herd, likes to play chase. The goats were not willing playmates and ran off when Waylon put his ears back, lowered his head and galloped toward them. Huck tripped and sprained his front leg, leading us to reconsider their living situation and start asking questions about which animals are the best, and worst, pasture mates for goats.

Best Friends Forever

Cows

cows
Abby Stewart

Goats can benefit from having a bovine best friend. Cattle and goats do not share the same parasites, and having a cow on the pasture can help break the parasite lifecycle. While both animals love eating fresh greens, goats browse while cattle graze, so there is little competition for food. Their different appetites also make them a winning team for clearing pastures of invasive weeds and keeping grass low.

Horses

horses on pasture with farm horse fence in background
David Clow/Flickr

Despite their size difference, goats and horses are ideal pasture-mates. The animals are susceptible to different parasites, so there are no worries about an increased risk of disease in this multispecies pasture. In this pairing, horses have the most to gain: Goats eat invasive weeds and underbrush, which improves pasture grazing for horses.

Cautious Companions

Chickens

goats chickens pasture
Jodi Helmer

Goats get along well with a feathered flock but must not be allowed access to chicken feed. A buffet of chicken feed could cause diarrhea or bloat, which, in severe cases, can be fatal. Chickens might also roost or lay in the hay manger, and goats will reject hay if it has any signs of droppings. Rambunctious goats could also run over slow-moving chickens, especially if space is tight.

goats chicks chickens pasture
Jodi Helmer

Sheep

flock of sheep
iStock/Thinkstock

Because of their similar size and calm temperaments, sheep might seem like ideal companions for goats. In fact, the ruminants share many of the same parasites, including brown stomach worms and roundworms (also known as barber pole worms). Thanks to their grazing behavior and lower immunities, Michigan State University warns, “Be prepared for parasite problems with sheep and goats grazing on pasture.” If you want to keep these two species together, rotational grazing can help reduce parasite loads. The ruminants also have different mineral requirements. Goats need a mineral supplement that contains copper. For sheep, however, too much copper can be fatal, so separate feeding locations are a must.

Worst Pasture Pals

Pigs

adding livestock pigs
Shutterstock

Famished pigs root up all the lush browse that your goats love, leaving little forage for your herd. All that rooting creates big holes in the pasture, and rain turns them into mud holes. Pigs love this, but you know how goats feel about getting wet. These species also have different nutritional needs and would need separate spaces to eat. The biggest reason to keep pigs in their own space is safety: Pigs can be aggressive and pose a major threat to newborn kids.

Animals, like humans, are distinct. You need to consider health, housing and nutritional needs as well as their overall behaviors when deciding whether to ask your goats to share a pasture with another species.

We tried separating Huck and Waylon, and they spent their days at the shared fence line looking for ways to get back together. So, despite the occasional, ill-tolerated game of chase, the boys seem to like living together and are back to sharing a pasture.

This article about choosing the best pasture mates for goats was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals

8 Miniature Goat Breeds for Small Farm Dairy

Miniature goat breeds are perfect for small hobby farms since these breeds produce about 23 as much milk as a full-size dairy doe but on half the feed. You can house three or four minis in the space you’d need for one full-size goat. Because of their size, a mini goat is easier to handle than its larger counterparts, making them ideal for children and adults with limited agility or strength.

Does come in a variety of sizes from 17-inch Pygmies to 29-inch Mini Alpines, Mini Saanens and Mini Nubians. Many city ordinances allow people to keep miniature goats where full-size goats aren’t allowed. They’re easy to transport in the back seat of a car or van or in a roomy dog crate in the bed of a truck.

Minis typically give birth to two to four kids, although five is fairly common. There is a strong market for miniature dairy goats, as well as for pets. It’s usually easy to find those kids great homes.

Some, such as Nigerian Dwarfs and Pygmies, are seasonal breeders, meaning they can be bred any time of the year. If you have more than one doe, you can stagger breedings and have milk on the table year round.

Out of Africa

Virtually all of the mini-milker breeds are at least in part descended from West African Dwarf (WAD) goats, known to the scientific community as WAD goats. Though their origin is uncertain, these small, hardy goats have thrived in sub-Saharan Africa for hundreds of years. They’re still valuable sources of milk and meat in parts of rural Africa.

miniature dairy goats mini-milkers
Jennifer White Maxwell/Shutterstock

To this day, they’re the most popular type of goat in 18 western and central African countries, due in part to their resistance to a disease called African Trypanosomiasis that, transmitted by tsetse flies, kills most livestock not native to sub-Saharan Africa. According to United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization figures, an estimated 11 million WAD goats are in Nigeria alone.

There are two types of WAD goats: 

  • short-legged, heavy-boned, wide-built, achondroplasic dwarfs that are ancestors of our Pygmy goats
  • a more refined, more normally proportioned type from which Nigerian Dwarf goats are descended. 

The first WAD goats came to America in 1909. Further importations occurred between 1930 and 1966.

At first, all of these goats were referred to as Pygmy goats. However, some early breeders noticed that not all of these animals were extra short-legged, wide types. They called these more proportionally built goats Nigerian Dwarfs. 

In 1975, fanciers formed the National Pygmy Goat Association. Nigerian Dwarfs were first registered by the International Dairy Goat Association in 1981. Nowadays several organizations register Nigerian Dwarfs, including the American Dairy Goat Association.

All of the mini-milker breeds—except the Kinder—were initially developed by breeding Nigerian Dwarfs to full-size dairy goats. Kinders were created by breeding Pygmies to full-size Nubian goats.

If you like a specific breed of full-size dairy goat, scaled-down versions exist. You can also try über-popular Nigerian Dwarfs. Pygmy goats don’t produce a lot of milk, but what they do is uncommonly tasty. The Kinder, with its Pygmy and Nubian goat background, is a dual-purpose (milk and meat) goat that is slightly larger than the other breeds.

1. Mini Oberhaslis

Oberhaslis were originally considered a type of Alpine goat, but they achieved status as a separate breed in the 1960s. Mini Oberhaslis are less common than most of the other mini-milker breeds. 

They’re sweet and friendly and nearly always chamoisee colored: a rich, red base coat with a black dorsal stripe, belly, udder and lower legs, and a nearly black head with white stripes on its sides. 

At the height of her lactation, an Oberhasli doe gives a gallon to 2 gallons of roughly 3 1/2 to 5 percent butterfat milk per day.

2. Mini Nubians

Most Nubians have loud, strident voices, and they “talk” a lot. This can make them less than ideal for anyone with nearby neighbors. They are very people-oriented, so if you want goats that dote on your attention, this is your breed. 

Nubians have sleek, silky summer coats and long, pendulous ears. Most have arched facial profiles like full-size Nubians, though this isn’t a requisite for registration. Does produce 23 the amount of a full-size Nubian does, to the tune of about 2 quarts to a gallon per day. Their milk is sweet and tasty due to its 4 to 7 precent butterfat content.

3. Mini Toggenburgs

A full-size Toggenburg doe, GCH Western-Acres Zephyr Rosemary holds the Guinness World Record for goat milk production: giving 9,110 pounds of milk, amounting to nearly 1,140 gallons, in a 305-day lactation. Mini Toggenburgs typically produce 2 or more gallons of roughly 3 1/2 percent butterfat milk per day. They can often milk through. 

Miniature Toggs are hardy, low-key, friendly dairy goats ideal for hobby farm or urban and suburban situations. 

4. Mini Guernseys

The least common mini-milker breed, Mini Guernseys were developed using genetics from the rare Golden Guernsey goat registered by the British Goat Society and recognized by England’s Rare Breed Survival Trust. 

They’re often not much smaller than full-size Golden Guernseys. Their short to quite long coats often sport long fringes of hair along their spines and “pantaloons” on their hindquarters. 

Mini Guernseys are always golden-colored, both hair and skin. They are unusually placid and friendly.

These miniature dairy goats don’t give a lot of milk, but they do so on grass alone, with no grain needed. Does typically produce 1 to 2 quarts of roughly 3 1/2 percent butterfat content per day.

5. Mini Alpines

Mini Alpines are hardy, alert, active and agile. These are graceful, medium-sized goats that come in the six French-named color patterns seen in full-size Alpines. Mini Alpine does produce from 2 quarts to a gallon or more of roughly 4 to 6 percent butterfat content milk per day. 

miniature dairy goats mini-milkers
Courtesy the Miniature Goat Registry

Like their full-size counterparts, Mini Alpines sometimes milk through, meaning they needn’t be bred and produce kids to induce lactation every year. Instead, they can be milked year round.

6. Mini Saanens & Mini Sables

Like their full-size counterparts, Mini Saanens produce a lot more milk than other breeds, but their butterfat content is lower. Saanens are always white or cream-colored with pink or olive-colored skin. 

Mini Sables are essentially Saanens of any other color than white or cream. The Miniature Dairy Goat Association registers Mini Sables in their Mini Saanen studbook, while The Miniature Goat Registry registers them in separate studbooks. 

Mini Saanens and Mini Sables are friendly, easy-going goats that give about 2 quarts to 3 gallons of 2 to 3 percent butterfat content milk per day. Both breeds often milk through.

miniature dairy goats mini-milkers
courtesy the Miniature Goat Registry

7. Nigerian Dwarfs

The Nigerian Dwarf is the fastest-growing dairy goat breed in North America and for good reason. It’s gentle, intelligent, colorful and productive.

At the height of their lactations, does produce 1 to 8 pounds (8 pounds equals roughly 1 gallon) of rich, 6 1/2 percent butterfat milk daily. And because breeders are selecting for larger, easily milked teats, milking dairy-quality does is a breeze. 

It’s important, however, to buy from producers breeding dairy-type goats. Some Nigerian Dwarfs are bred primarily to be pets. Nigerian Dwarfs have short-to-medium length coats and come in a stunning array of colors. 

Some have blue eyes, but brown is the norm. Most have horns unless they’re disbudded as kids. But polled (hornless) genetics are increasingly available, too. 

8. Mini LaManchas

These medium-sized miniature dairy goats are heavier-bodied than most other mini breeds. They’re noted for their sweet personalities and easy-going temperaments. 

Their short ears come in two types:

  • Gopher ears contain little or no cartilage and look like rings of skin around the auditory canals
  • Elf ears, stand upright and usually have a flap of skin at the tip that turns up or down

Only gopher-eared bucks can be registered.

If you’re thinking of getting dairy goats, think small and do your homework before you buy. Chances are there is a mini-milker breed exactly right for you. 

More Information

Not Quite a Mini Goat

The Kinder isn’t technically a mini milker, but it’s still a great nonfull-size option. This goat is a stocky-built, easily-handled, dual-purpose milk and meat breed initially produced by breeding registered Pygmy bucks to registered Nubian does. After that, Kinder-to-Kinder breeding is the norm. 

Does give 2 quarts to a full gallon of 5 to 7 percent butterfat content milk per day. Kinder kids grow rapidly, reaching roughly 70 percent of their adult weight by 1 year of age. Kinder carcass weight is about 60 percent live weight, making them excellent meat goats, too.

The Pygmy Group

Few people think of Pygmy goats as milk producers. But when milked, does give from 1 quart to 12 gallon of 5 to 10 percent butterfat content milk that the National Pygmy Goat Association says is higher in calcium, phosphorus, potassium and iron than milk from full-size dairy breeds.

Pygmies are small, docile and intelligent. Besides producing milk they make great pets.

Choose Your Registry

First-generation miniature goat breeds are produced by breeding a Nigerian Dwarf buck to a full-size registered dairy doe. Does from these breedings are usually bred to registered miniature bucks of the same breed.

Most breeds, barring the Pygmy and Kinder, are registered by more than one organization. In some cases, they don’t recognize individuals registered with rival groups. Do your research before buying your minis, making sure they’re registered with the group you’d like to do business with.

Contact these organizations to find out more about miniature milkers. 

This article about miniature goat breeds originally appeared in the July/August 2022 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Equipment

3 Benefits of a Folding Level on the Farm

The benefits of a folding level are numerous. Depending on the types of projects you tackle on your farm, you may want to add one to your arsenal of tools.

A folding level is much like a beam level, but with a big difference: it’s hinged, usually in multiple places. When the level is fully unfolded, it stretches out to a decent length (perhaps a couple of feet) and can be used like a beam level. But the hinging ability expands its versatility and usefulness.

Here are three benefits of a folding level:

1. Compact size

A folding level is easy to carry around since it folds to such a compact size. If you have a large pocket, it may fit inside. It’s convenient to toss inside a small bag of tools, or in the tool compartment of a tractor.

The compact size of a folding level also comes in handy if you need to take a measurement in a tight space where a longer, regular level won’t fit.

2. Ability to measure multiple angles at once

Compact size is nice, but the biggest benefit of a folding level is its ability to measure multiple angles at once. A typical folding level comes with several bubbles mounted in different orientations, such as horizontal, vertical, and 45 degrees. By folding the level in various ways, and by utilizing bubbles on different sections, you can quickly and conveniently measure multiple angles at a glance.

Let’s provide an example. Suppose you’re installing a wooden fence post and want to make sure it’s standing perfectly vertical (plumb). Facing the fence post, you need to make sure it isn’t leaning left, right, forward, or backward. So long as your level offers multiple horizontal bubbles, you can fold it at a 90-degree angle so one horizontal bubble measures the left-to-right lean and the other measures forward-to-backward lean—just like a post and pipe level does. It’s faster and easier than constantly switching back and forth from one side of the post to another, as you have to do with a regular level.

By offering horizontal, vertical, and 45-degree bubbles, a folding level can cover a lot of different combinations. If you need to measure multiple angles simultaneously, there’s a good chance you’ll figure out a way to do it with this level.

3. Usability as a regular beam level

As mentioned previously, by unfolding a level to its greatest length, you can use it just like a beam level. This shouldn’t be underestimated, because sometimes sheer length is helpful.

For example, if you want to make sure a long piece of lumber is level, but the lumber itself isn’t perfectly straight (with little bumps and inconsistencies along its length), a level that’s only a few inches long can give a false reading if one end happens to be sitting on a bump or in a dip. A longer level can ride over these subtle variations and give you a more accurate indication of levelness.

Combining all three of these benefits into a single tool moves a folding level onto the must-have list if you commonly tackle small building and construction projects.

This article was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe. 

Categories
Poultry

10 Most Expensive Chicken Breeds in the U.S.

Are you looking for one of the most expensive chicken breeds in the United States? If so, we’ve got you covered! Chickens, like many Instagram-worthy farm animals, can be quite expensive and bougie. Old Macdonald’s farm might have been more lucrative if he just focused on raising rare and exotic poultry. The National Chicken Council claims, “The chicken industry in the United States is one of the most successful sectors in agriculture.” But when it comes down to price per bird, the highest profit comes from looks and rarity, rather than their productivity or value in meat and eggs. 

Breeders and hatcheries are selling more per animal because of the rare and exotic qualities buyers are seeking. As with every industry, the more established the breeding program is, the higher the prices will be. The genetics, feedback from customers and pictures of multi-generations the breeder has produced is what determines how established a breeding program is.

The fascinating world of Fancy Chicken breeding is not new. The National Agricultural Library reports, “The goal of successful poultry breeding has shifted through time. The first chickens were bred for their ability to perform activities that had little to do with food production. Skinner’s history of breeds identifies chickens used for cockfighting as being historically the most valuable until the early nineteenth century (1974). Chickens bred for their appearance and performance in poultry exhibits were also more valued than the lowly birds used for meat and eggs”

Top 10 List of Most Expensive Chicken Breeds

Today’s market prizes these 10 breeds as the most expensive, exploring what qualities are driving up the prices for buyers. While value is a sliding scale depending on where you shop and when, these are notoriously ranked as expensive.

1. Ayam Cemani ($2,500)

This all-black bird is prized due to a rare condition called fibromelanosis, which causes an excess of dark pigment resulting in jet-black feathers, skin, flesh, organs and bones. The black color is 10 times the melatonin as other chicken breeds. Unsexed eggs can be purchased for $45 with a minimum of 12. Juveniles (6-12 weeks) $800 and adults are sold for $1,200-$3,000. With a nickname, “The Lamborghini Chicken” you know it’s going to be expensive.

2. Kadaknath ($2,500)

These chickens are often confused with Ayam Cemanis because of the black feathers from head to toe. However, they have a varying pigment of black. They also differ in size, temperament, egg production and meat production. Many are jet black, but the breed also incorporates penciled and golden. 

3. Dong Tao ($2,000)

This breed is rare and hard to find. The demand rarely matches the need. They are prized for their easily recognized large legs and feet, which is easy to see why people call them the “Dragon Chicken.”

4. Deathlayer ($250)

Moving from the thousands price range to the hundreds, Deathlayers are the leaders for being the most expensive chicken breeds. This dramatic name comes from their ability to lay eggs until their dying day. Also sought for their striking appearance they charm with their black babydoll eyes, beautiful feathers and can be silver or gold varieties. 

5. Liege Fighter ($150)

Liege fighters are a large and muscular Belgian gamecock breed of chicken that was originally bred in the 19th century for fighting. They were bred to be powerful enough to overpower other fighting breeds and to fight using natural spurs instead of sharpened metal gaffes. Nowadays they are a great flock protector and generally friendly with their owners.

6. Olandsk Dwarf ($100)

Olandsk Dwarf chickens are true dwarf chickens. This means that they are not a miniature version of a full-size breed as you have with Bantam breeds. They are a landrace breed of chicken which are typically known to be hardy, disease-resistant and adaptable to changes. They are lightweight and display a beautiful combination of red, black, gray, brown and white multicolored feathers.

7. Swedish Black ($100)

The knockoff version of the Ayam Cemani might just be the Swedish Black moving this lower on the list of the most expensive chicken breeds. All physical features of the bird are black, although there can be a purple/greenish tint spotted in the sun. They are smaller and more cold-hardy than the Ayam Cemani. Despite the differences, it is still a fascinating and expensive bird.

8. Orust ($100)

Very hard to find, Orusts are beautifully spotted white and black from their head to feet. This beauty combined with their docile and easy-to-handle nature makes them highly sought after.

9. Pavloskaya ($86)

If crests are a trait you like, these birds will be sure to interest you. They have a beautiful crest and lacelike markings. They are very cold-tolerant (being from Russia). They have a great history where they have been brought back from extinction, which is something many enthusiasts enjoy participating in preserving. They lay very few eggs a year, making them more valuable.

10. Seramas ($77)

Coming in last on the list of most expensive chicken brees, Seramas are the smallest chickens in the world. A full-grown rooster is about the size of a pigeon. They are friendly and can be trained. They handle heat extremely well, as they are tropical birds. Their tiny stature and huge tails make a very intriguing look.

serama chicken breed
Serama chicken in the garden. Photo by Athok Fadhlin

Why the High Price?

Rarity, physical features and access to these birds are among the top reasons they are priced so high. If you are in the market to start investing in these types of chickens, here are a few shopping tips from top breeder, Chrissy Scheulen at Paragon Ridge Ranch:

  • Know your goals. Are you breeding or showing birds? Are you looking for dual purpose or sustainability? What features interest you?
  • Research your breeder. Make sure it is a reputable source who has been working on their program for a while. Breeders should be culling for traits to get to the best of the best. 
  • Shop smaller breeders. Commercial hatcheries and big box farm stores breed for quantity not quality.
  • Check online farm hatcheries, farmers markets and online sell groups.
  • Research the genetics of the parents.
  • Ask for photos of the birds and their environments.
  • Read customer feedback and reviews.

This article about the most expensive chicken breeds in the U.S. was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

What Scraps Can Chickens Eat To Reduce Waste & Your Feed Bill

Knowing what scraps can chickens eat is important since a flock can help reduce food waste and a chicken keeper’s feed budget. It’s never my intention to embarrass my wife when we go out to dinner.  But she sometimes cringes when I approach the waiter for a to-go box and say, “If I don’t eat it, our chickens will.” The staff is always happy to hear that the food isn’t going to waste. But my wife pretends she doesn’t know me when I talk to strangers about feeding chickens food scraps.

Too few restaurants and homeowners compost or give their food waste to farmers. And that contributes to the fact that the average citizen generates 20 pounds of food waste every month, according to the Harvard Food Law and Policy Clinic. That adds up to about half a ton annually for a family of four. 

Citywide, that means food waste from homes, restaurants and institutions composes about 13 percent of municipal trash that goes to the landfill. That probably costs most cities about $40 a ton or more—carried by garbage trucks that get as little as 3 miles per gallon (not a typo). So, every time your customers or a restaurant throws away food, they’re creating upward pressure on their own tax bill. 

There are also environmental advantages to letting chickens eat these food scraps. If these scraps go to a landfill, they slowly decompose in a way that turns them into methane gas. The methane will escape into the atmosphere where it is 25 times worse for promoting climate disruption than is an equivalent amount of CO2 coming from your car exhaust or those garbage trucks.

And if you’re on a city sewer line and dispose of food scraps down the drain, with or without a garbage disposal, things aren’t much better. When those scraps of food waste get to your water treatment plant, the staff has to spend money getting all that organic matter out of the water so it won’t cause fish kills downstream.

Not only is it expensive to landfill food waste or remove food from wastewater, but chicken feed isn’t cheap either. If my two-person household generates almost 500 pounds of food waste per year, I estimate that we’re able to give a third of that to the chickens: about 160 pounds (much of that weight is water, but still). I don’t have hard numbers, but I believe our modest efforts at giving chickens food waste from our kitchen, our restaurant leftovers and scraps from our neighbors might cut our feed bill by as much as 20 percent.

Clearly, feeding food waste to chickens is a great way to fight climate disruption, reduce landfill costs, cut water treatment costs and shave down your chicken feed bill, too. So here are some tips on how you and your customers can reduce your contribution to food waste and climate disruption as well as cut the cost of feeding chickens.

We already have a container for food scraps that go to the compost bins. A few years back, we set up a second one on the kitchen counter for scraps that would please the chickens. The original compost container still gets things that the chickens won’t or shouldn’t eat: coffee grounds, paper towels, banana peels, orange skins, avocado skins (toxic to chickens) and anything moldy or spoiled. 

Here’s a list of what scraps can chickens eat that do go in the chicken food container. (A handy tip: In both containers, I put a folded paper towel—or surplus napkins from buying fast food—in the bottom to absorb moisture and to make it easier for the contents to pop out without having to be scraped out.)

chickens treats

What Scraps Can Chickens Eat?

Produce

Being omnivores, chickens like almost all the scraps of vegetables and fruit that we can give them with the important exception of uncooked potato skins and avocados, which are reportedly toxic. Chickens will attack any leftover corn on the cob, overripe cucumbers, carrot tops and more. 

Occasionally, at our neighborhood grocery, I’m able to divert a box of vegetable scraps from the dumpster, and the chickens plow through those right away.

Bread, Grains & Chips

We sometimes freeze stale bread to add to soups, but we also give bread scraps to the chickens. They’ll devour stale bread, chips and crackers as well as leftover rice, old pasta, cereal crumbs from the bottom of the box: anything flaky or crunchy from grains will suit them.

Meat & Fish

It’s important to remember that chickens are not vegetarians, so go ahead and give them meat. Nor are they egalitarians, feminists or pacifists, but that’s grist for another story. They like meat. I mean they like meat the way a good Southern boy needs his daily dose of pork products. Chickens really like meat, including gristle, tendons and fat. They’ll pick bones clean, leaving nothing to attract vermin—nothing! And because we cover the ground in the pen with wood chips, any bones quickly decompose in place, too.

But knowing what scraps chickens can eat means we don’t feed them chicken scraps. It’s not necessarily a “no-no” but it seems weird. We don’t want to support cannibalism for any species. (We also avoid the potential for disease. Mad cow disease came from feeding cow parts to cows, after all.) 

And we don’t give them fish bones. The smell would stick around too long. Although we do give them scraps of fish skin, lobster shells and shrimp shells, which get gobbled right up. Maybe you already knew this, but those shellfish are related to insects, and you know how chickens love them some bugs!

Fats & Oils

Type “fatbergs” in a search engine. If you or your customers have the bad habit of pouring cooking oils down the sink, you really should see what this stuff looks like when it congeals inside a city sewer pipe. These grotesque “icebergs” of fat cause nearly half of the 36,000 sewer overflows in the United States each year. And even when the fat doesn’t congeal into a fatberg, it still has to be removed from the wastewater, and that costs taxpayer money.

Instead of pouring cooking oils or fats from bacon, burgers, steaks and pork chops down the drain or even putting that stuff in the trash, we pour (and scrape) our waste oils and fats into a bowl and let them set up in the fridge overnight. We feed it to the hens the next morning. They think it’s pudding. It disappears fast. 

That’s not nearly as strange as it sounds. Many cooking oil-recycling operations turn waste oils from restaurants and food processors into feed for livestock or pets anyway. Another tip: If you have dusty bits of pellets or grains too fine for the chickens to eat, these can be mixed with liquid waste oils into a paste that they’ll devour.

The chickens don’t get all the bacon fat at our house though. Not because it would be weird, but because it’d be a waste. It’s the best thing for frying eggs sunny-side up.

Eggshells

We give them their eggshells after we’ve eaten the eggs. We smash the shells flat, so they don’t resemble an egg. We don’t want to give them the wrong idea. But the calcium in the eggs is very valuable.

When they’re laying heavily, they wolf down eggshells. In winter when they’re laying less, they can be laissez-faire about the shells.

Dairy

Cheese rinds and leftover milk from cereal bowls are also popular with the poultry set.

Neighbors Can Help 

No, we don’t feed the neighbors to our chickens, but the neighbors do bring food to our chickens. The neighbors say they bring melon rinds, pumpkin guts and leftover pasta because they like to visit the hens. But I think they’re angling for free eggs, too, which we give them because our birds produce more eggs than our household can eat.

Essentially, we encourage a reverse CSA on our block. You may be familiar with community supported agriculture as a method for consumers to pay farmers in advance for their produce. We ask our neighbors to save their kitchen scraps (with the exceptions noted above) and drop them off in the run. After holidays such as Halloween and Thanksgiving, it’s party time in the coop as neighbors drop off their out-of-date ornamental squashes and pumpkins. 

I toss these in the pen and then use a long handled child’s shovel (or any sharp-enough, long-handled tool will do) to chop the pumpkin into accessible sections. You can imagine how quickly the seeds disappear. And the flesh goes next, leaving a very thin layer of inedible pumpkin skin.

I know some folks who spoil their birds by cooking the pumpkins first, but that’s not necessary.

You may be able to persuade your conscientious customers to freeze their food scraps and bring them to you at the market. Dump them in your empty coolers, and feed these treats to your chickens when you get back. That way your trip home from market is profitable, too.

chickens treats

More Information About What Scraps Can Chickens Eat

Vermin-Proof Treats

Freecycling chicken treats is all well and good, but you’ll want to keep a few things in mind so that you don’t end up providing a feast for vermin that may be able to finagle their way into your chickens’ run, such as mice and rats. 

Timing

Make sharing scraps from the kitchen part of your morning routine. Give your birds enough time to eat your bounty before bedtime. Tossing scraps into the run during late afternoon or evening is just a way to feed the critters that work the night shift. 

Sizes

Chickens don’t have teeth, so sometimes you, your knife and your cutting board will have to play that role. Mid-ribs of collards, kale and chard for example would be edible, but they’re too big. Chop them into finer, bite-size pieces before tossing them into the countertop container of hen treats. 

Right Side Up

Melon and pumpkin scraps are always popular with poultry. But a chunk tossed skin-side up will make it inaccessible for the ladies. I keep a kid-size shovel with a long handle next to the run’s gate (a regular shovel or gravel rake works fine too). If something lands fruit-side down, I can flip it from a standing position with the shovel. I can also chop melons, pumpkins, apples and other fruit into more accessible slices—all without bending over or stepping into the pen.

This article about what scraps chickens can eat originally appeared in Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

How to Keep Chickens Cool With a DIY Swamp Cooler

How to keep chickens cool is top of mind for chicken keepers in summer. While we all enjoy the lazy days of summer, your chickens probably find it very stressful. Chickens thrive in moderate temperatures, so they don’t like it when it’s too hot or too cold. Just like snow, ice and endless days of cold weather can cause frostbite, frozen feet and respiratory issues, the heat of summer and soaring temperatures can make chickens lethargic and dehydrated and, in some cases, cause death.

If you live in an area that sees lots of heat and humidity during the summer, you can help your flock beat the heat. It’s easy. You just need to cool down your chickens by building a DIY chicken coop swamp cooler. It can help drop the heat in the coop significantly, and that can mean healthier happier birds. 

Hot Weather Affects a Flock

If you’ve ever watched a flock of chickens lay out on the grass sun tanning, you might be fooled into thinking they’re hardy animals. While some breeds are hardier than others, most chickens are very susceptible to heat stress. Once temperatures rise above 77 degree F or you experience a heat wave, a cycle can begin where the chicken simply can’t cool off. 

The first issue is dehydration. Once dehydrated, the chickens may be lethargic, lose their appetites and stop laying eggs. In some cases, their internal organs may begin shutting down or they pant so excessively that they develop an illness or respiratory issues. 

Signs Of Heat Stress

For the most part, chickens spend warm weather days taking dust baths, pecking the ground for snacks and just lying in the sun. When those behaviors change to include some of the following, you’re almost guaranteed that your flock members are experiencing some form of heat stress. 

Drooping or Lifted Wings

A chicken that is overheating will hold its wings away from its body to keep it cooler. Some chickens will also let their wings drop so they seem to drag on the ground when they walk.  

Heavy Panting

A chicken that is trying to cool off may pant in the same way a dog does. The chicken’s mouth will be open when they pant. 

Fatigue

An overheated chicken is a tired chicken. They may lay down in the shade or in the coop and be much less active. 

Loss of Appetite

Heat stress in chickens may mean they aren’t as hungry. They may eat less than they normally do or you may notice they struggle with swallowing. 

Change in Bowel Habits

Heat stress in chickens can lead to diarrhea.

Egg Quality

In some cases, heat stress can cause eggs to be deformed or stop egg production altogether.

AC/CC

A chicken coop swamp cooler can be part of your summer plan for how to keep chickens cool. Along with shade trees, ice-cold water and a clean coop, a DIY swamp cooler can drop the temperature a few degrees so it’s bearable for your chickens.

A swamp cooler, aka an evaporative cooler, is a cooling device that uses evaporating water to cool the air. You can buy swamp coolers with different features, but making a basic chicken coop swamp cooler is easy, too.

It works by drawing hot air into a bucket. At the bottom of the bucket is a small water pump that pushes cold water through a tube. The tube has holes so the water drips onto a layer of foam that’s wrapped around the inside of the bucket. 

As the hot air passes through the wet foam, it evaporates and is absorbed, so the air inside the bucket is cooler than the air outside. The cooled air is then circulated out of the bucket using a fan.

A chicken coop swamp cooler is inexpensive to make, and in most cases, it should cost you less than $50 for materials. You may already have everything you need to make one at home or in your yard. They are a great option for a chicken coop because they use less energy than an air conditioner, and a swamp cooler is safe to have in the coop because it’s only made up of a small fan and water pump. 

This type of swamp cooler will work best for how to keep chickens cool in coops in dry climates, but you may not find it as effective for how to keep your chickens cool in humid climates as excess moisture in the air can interfere with cooling. 

The Build

Now that you’re ready to DIY a chicken coop swamp cooler, here is a quick guide on how to build one. First, you need to gather your materials. To build a chicken coop swamp cooler you’ll need the following: 

  • 5-gallon pail with a lid from your local feed supply shop 
  • small submersible pump (4 watts, 90 gallons per hour works well)
  • plastic tubing to fit around the rim of the bucket
  • swamp cooler pad, sponge, or large piece of foam
  • piece of window screen
  • small fan to fit in the lid
  • utility knife
  • drill
  • coring drill bits to cut holes
  • push pin or small drill bit to drill holes in tube
  • ruler or measuring tape
  • glue gun
  • power source to plug into

chicken chickens swamp cooler

Step 1: Put Holes in the Bucket 

A swamp cooler needs several holes to draw hot air in, so your first step is to cut holes in the bucket. I cut holes in the middle of the bucket as I wanted the room to keep enough water and ice in the bottom so I wouldn’t have to refill too often. 

You’ll need to cut several holes around the entire bucket. I used a coring bit to cut them out, but you can also use a utility knife.

Step 2: Install Pump & Power

You’ll want to cut small holes right under the rim of the bucket so you can thread your fan and water pump cords through. With small holes, your cords won’t interfere with the bucket lid. 

chicken chickens swamp cooler

Step 3: Cut Foam & Screen To Fit

I didn’t have a swamp pad so I used a large piece of foam for the pad the water will drip onto. I measured the circumference of the bucket and cut the screen material and the foam pad to fit. I glued the screen over the holes and then glued the pad over it. 

I then added the screen as it will prevent the chickens from reaching in to peck at the foam. Both the screen and the foam pad were measured to sit right above the water line.

Step 4: Attach Fan

Choose a small fan that’s the best size for the center of the lid of the water bucket. Cut the hole for the fan with a utility knife and attach it to the lid with duct tape or zip ties. 

Step 5: Add Holes & Place Pump 

Using a push pin or tiny drill bit, create drip holes in the plastic tubing. The tubing will drip water onto the foam to keep it saturated. Attach your plastic tubing to your water pump and place it inside the bucket. 

You’ll need enough tubing to extend from the bottom to the top, circling it around the bucket. You can glue the tubing to the top of the bucket, being careful to avoid the areas where you added drip holes. 

chicken chickens swamp cooler

Step 6: Fill with Water & Ice 

Add enough water so your pump is fully submerged. You can add a combination of water and ice to keep the water inside cold. When it’s running be sure to check the bucket frequently so the pump doesn’t run while dry.  

Step 7: Find a Safe Spot

If your swamp cooler is on the coop floor, your chickens may jump on it or peck at it. Secure it so it can’t be knocked over. Also, don’t place it directly under the roosts or it could become damaged from chicken manure. 

Step 8: Cool the Coop! 

Once your chicken coop swamp cooler is ready, plug it into power. The pump will circulate water from the bottom of the container, push it through the tubing, and it will drip onto the foam. 

Hot air will enter the bucket through the holes and cool air will blow out of the container and into the chicken coop. I also splash water onto the foam so it’s already wet before the water begins dripping. 

Chickens aren’t as affected by the weather as we are, but heat stress is one of the reasons why people lose entire flocks in the summer. By the time you begin to see signs of heat stress, it may already be too late. 

An action plan to beat the heat in your chicken coop helps with how to keep your chickens cool, happy and healthy, and a DIY swamp cooler is an easy way to drop the temperature in the coop while you all ride out the next heat wave. 

More Information on How to Keep Chickens Cool

A chicken coop swamp cooler can drop the temperature in a chicken coop by several degrees. To maximize the usefulness of your swamp cooler, follow these tips. 

Build the right size cooler.

A small swamp cooler won’t be very effective for how to keep chickens cool in a large coop. If you have a very large coop you may want to DIY a few swamp coolers and place them in different areas.

Always add water.

On a very hot day, a swamp cooler will quickly run through its water supply. You’ll want to check the cooler frequently and add water and ice to ensure it stays operational. 

Clean your cooler frequently.

Materials like foam can grow mold if not cleaned frequently. You’ll want to rinse out the cooler at least once a week and make sure you use fresh water that’s free of bacteria and contaminants.  

Add another fan to your coop.

Having a fan placed near the swamp cooler can direct airflow in the coop. If possible, you should also have other types of ventilation including an open window or door so fresh air can enter the coop. 

This article about how to keep chickens cool originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Podcast

Growing Good Podcast #81: Robert Frew & Juan Carlos Arango, permaculture specialists

Robert and Juan Carlos practice permaculture and a culture of sharing at Sobremesa Farm, just outside Bloomington, Indiana. In this episode, Robert talks about taking the time to observe the land before jumping into farming and waiting one more year before putting any pressure on selling anything from the land. Juan Carlos points out that neither of them knew much about farming but came into this work through their interest in nature and wildlife and, eventually, the relationships they built at a Bioneers Conference. That permaculture mimics nature made it a natural fit for their land-management philosophy. 

Hear about the steps they took to bring municipal water to a property that isn’t suited for a well but didn’t have a municipal-water meter. (Listeners: Most of us would have walked away from this property. You have to hear about their journey!) Robert also talks about how they collect and keep rainwater on the land, plus two springs that have come to the surface since they purchased the property. 

Juan Carlos talks about the concept of “volunteers”–particularly plant volunteers as a means to reduce dependence on off-farm seed resources. He also talks about the various animals they keep and the rolls each fills on the farm, plus some of the more untypical tropical crops they grow in greenhouses and the fields. You won’t find soursop, bananas or pittaya growing too many other places in the Midwest! 

Hear, too, about their fellowship with Midwest Grains, the milpas they’re experimenting with, and their interest in finding and learning from other small-scale grain growers in the region. 

From CSA to an on-farm market, Sobremesa Farm attempts to connect their customers with how their food is grown. Robert talks about getting grant money to expand production via mini production contracts for a local food pantry in 2023. He gets real about the growing pains for farms as small as theirs when engaging with grants. 

Finally, Juan Carlos talks about their approach to educating their customers and school groups, as well as multicultural farming workshops they host on the farm. Hear, too, about the fertility methods they’ve used to supercharge the soil organic matter on their farm.  

If you’re curious about the name Sobremesa Farm, listen to the very end to hear Juan Carlos’s explanation of the Latin American concept of sobremesa. 

Note from the host: 

One thing we did not get to talk about in this episode was Sobremesa Farm’s feature during the 2023 Farm Aid benefit concert. Be sure to watch the video, linked below.  

Links from this episode 

Sobremesa Farm website 

Sobremesa Farm Instagram 

The ABC of Organic Agriculture, Chromatography and Sustainable Livestock Management workshop with Jairo Restrepo, September 3-6, 2024 

Farm Aid video 

Categories
Animals Breeds

Jersey Wooly Rabbit: Breed Profile

The Jersey Wooly rabbit is a dwarf breed, weighing between 3 to 3.5 pounds at maturity. The breed can look bigger, due to the “wooly” pelt from which it gets its name. The breed is noted for being even more docile than the average rabbit, leading to one of its many nicknames – the “no kick” rabbit. It may also be called the “mug head” rabbit, for its unusually shaped head

While the blocky head is a prominent feature of the Jersey Wooly rabbit, it is the coat that the breed is truly known for. As one of the few fiber rabbits that is not an angora breed, the Jersey wooly is often considered a poor choice for fiber because of the rabbit’s tiny size. However, for those not concerned with heavy production, or with little space, the Jersey Wooly can make a good dual-purpose, pet/fiber choice.

Standards of Perfection

The body of a Jersey Wooly rabbit is often described as “round.” The width of the body should be equal at the shoulders and at the hips. The body should be short, no longer than the rabbit is wide. The hips should be round, and there should be a gradual curve from the nape of the neck to the loin.

The head is short and blocky, set high and proportionate to the body. The ears should be short, preferably no more than 2.5 inches, with more than three inches being a disqualifying feature. Ears are carried upright but are not necessarily touching as they would be on the Polish rabbit.

The feet must be straight, and while there may be wool on the back legs, if it extends below the ankles on the front legs, the rabbit is disqualified from showing. Eyes and ears must match the rabbit’s coloring pattern as required by the American Rabbit Breeder Association.

 

white jersey wooly rabbit
A fluffy white Jersey Wooly rabbit. Photo by Mary Swift.

The recognized color varieties are agouti (chestnut, chinchilla, opal, squirrel), pointed white (with black or blue), broken (any recognized color plus white), self (black, blue, chocolate, lilac, blue-eyed white, ruby-eyed white), shaded (sable point, seal, Siamese sable, smoked-pearl, tortoiseshell, blue tortoiseshell) and tan pattern (black otter, blue otter, silver marten, sable marten, smoke pearl marten).

Jersey Wooly Rabbit Coat Care

The Jersey Wooly rabbit breed originates from New Jersey in the United States. It was bred for its long, wooly coat in the 1970s. Most healthy rabbits are capable of self-care when it comes to grooming. The Jersey Wooly, however, requires human intervention due to the texture and thickness of its coat. Weekly grooming is suggested to prevent matting. Even with a rabbit who self-grooms well, the heavy coat can result in a buildup of wool in the digestive tract.

Jersey Wooly rabbits also should be kept indoors. Most rabbit breeds do well in outdoor hutches or colony environments, but the special texture that makes fiber rabbits so unique also means they are unable to survive in uncontrolled conditions. They lack the insulation to deal with extreme heat or cold, are unable to repel water and are more prone to matting if they get damp.

Special Needs

The Jersey Wooly lives an average of 7-10 years and is prone to all of the standard issues rabbits can develop. However, the breed can also be prone to certain cancers, and many experts suggest spaying or neutering as this seems to extend their expected life span.

Woolies have some special care needs as well. Not only do they need help to keep their coats clean, but their ears should be cleaned regularly as well. Web MD Pets recommends this to help them regulate their body temperature better. The National Jersey Wooly Club also suggests extra cleaning for white rabbits, since the coloring from cages, bedding or urine can stain their wool.

An important note for breeders new to the Jersey Wooly: while they are – on average – one of the most docile breeds, there are instances of certain lines known for bad tempers and biting behaviors. This is, for some reason, especially true in blue-eyed-whites and in males of the breed. This can sometimes be corrected with extensive behavioral work, but in some cases, the rabbit may require culling.

This article about the Jersey Wooly rabbit was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Chickens 101 Poultry

6 Treats for Baby Chicks to Enjoy

Treats for baby chicks help new arrivals grow healthy and robust and can help prevent health problems, but what treats help chicks grow healthy and strong? Let’s go over some healthy chick-safe treats and what treats to avoid.

Monitoring Treats

Even though nothing is more rewarding than feeding chicks a delicious treat, treats should make up at most ten percent of their diet and should never replace their commercial feed. Chicks need a balance of vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients found in their chick feed to grow healthy and strong. Only offer chicks a treat in the afternoon or evening after they have had a chance to eat their formulated feed.

1. Rolled Oats

Rolled oats are more than a treat for baby chicks. They are an essential part of their diet. When choosing treats for baby chicks, oatmeal is always the first treat I offer my new arrivals.

Feeding oats to baby chicks may help to prevent or clear up pasty butt (a life-threatening condition in chicks, where the chick’s poop clogs up their vent, making it impossible for the chick to excrete).

Rolled oats are high in essential vitamins and minerals that chicks need to grow, including the B vitamins thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, and choline, as well as copper, iron, magnesium, and zinc. This beneficial grain contains antioxidants and protein to help chicks grow healthy and strong.

To feed, grind up rolled oats (I use a food processor) into a course meal (similar to cornmeal). Sprinkle a small amount of oatmeal on the chicks feed once or twice daily.

2. Watermelon

Watermelon is another one of my go-to treats for baby chicks. During the hot and humid summer months, chicks may need a boost of hydration and vitamins to prevent heat stroke. Watermelon is an excellent fruit for chicks as it has low sugar content. Watermelon is high in antioxidants and vitamins A, B6, and C.

To avoid choking, feed watermelon on the rind instead of cutting it into pieces. Also, always remove all seeds before feeding your chicks.

3. Dandelions

Dandelions contain vitamins A, B, C, D, E, and K and are a good source of calcium, folate, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, and zinc. High in protein, the entire plant (leaves and flowers) can be safely fed to chicks. The roots can be safely steeped into tea and cooled to room temperature before being added to the chicks’ water.

Dandelions are considered a general health tonic and are one of the healthiest treats for baby chicks. Never use dandelions that have been sprayed or may have come in contact with chemicals or pesticides.

4. Oregano

If there were only one treat to feed baby chicks, it would be oregano. This powerful herb has been proven to be a natural antibiotic and is thought to prevent coccidiosis, E.coli, Salmonella, Avian Influenza, and other deadly diseases.

Oregano can be fed fresh, dried, or steeped in a tea. Feeding oregano isn’t only a healthy option when choosing treats for baby chicks, but feeding this beneficial herb could be a lifesaver as it may protect your flock from contracting fatal diseases.

5. Scrambled Egg

Often called the “perfect food,” eggs contain everything you need to survive (lacking only vitamin C). Eggs not only make an ideal choice for treats for baby chicks, but they can also be the difference between life and death for a chick weakened and dehydrated from shipping.

Always cook eggs thoroughly before feeding them to chicks. Adding fresh or dried herbs to scrambled eggs can help boost nutrient levels if you feed eggs for a nutritious treat. However, when feeding eggs to a dehydrated and weak chick, omit the herbs and feed only the scrambled egg.

When feeding eggs to chicks, stick to chicken eggs versus other poultry eggs.

6. Black Soldier Fly Larvae

Dried black soldier fly larvae are an excellent protein supplement for baby chicks. Black soldier fly larvae have an excellent calcium-to-phosphorus ratio to help build strong bones. The bugs can easily be crushed with your fingers, making them easier for young chicks to digest.

Another plus to feeding dried black soldier fly larvae to baby chicks as treats is that these bugs are grown in the U.S. and are fed a vegetarian diet.

Treats for Baby Chicks to Avoid

Just like there are healthy treats for baby chicks, there are harmful treats, too. Keep reading to learn what treats to avoid when feeding baby chicks.

Mealworms

Mealworms aren’t bad on their own, but they lack much of the nutrition found in black soldier fly larvae. Mealworms are not fed a completely healthy diet and are not approved by the USDA to feed chickens. Therefore, mealworms are not considered a suitable treat for feeding baby chicks.

Bread

Bread is one of the most dangerous treats for baby chicks. Not only does bread contain high amounts of salt, leading to salt poisoning and, in extreme cases, death, but it also contains high amounts of yeast. When fed to baby chicks and adult chickens, the yeast builds up in the crop, resulting in a sour crop (a life-threatening condition common in backyard flocks caused by too much bacteria and yeast in the crop).

Tomatoes

Many poultry experts disagree on whether tomatoes are healthy treats for baby chicks. Tomatoes contain a toxin called solanine, which is found in unripe tomatoes. Many experts suggest that baby chicks can safely consume overripe tomatoes. However, erring on the side of caution and never feeding tomatoes to chicks may help chicks live longer, healthier lives.

Just like adult chickens, chicks love treats. Choosing healthy treats for baby chicks will not only help your new arrivals stay healthy, but it will also help build a life-long bond between you and your chicks.

This article about the best treats for baby chicks was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.