Brushhog cutter attached to tractor (Daniel Johnson)
A finish mower is a great tool for keeping a well-maintained lawn looking awesome, but not every farm field is ready for the manicured treatment that it provides. That’s where rough cut mowers come into play, and many farmers need both to keep their land tidy and clear of brush.
So what are the differences between both mowers? Let’s define both types and explore their pros and cons:
What is a finish mower?
A finish mower is designed to cleanly cut well-maintained grassy fields to short heights—under eight inches or so. Your typical riding lawn mower or zero-turn mower can be considered a finish mower, but when people use the term, they’re usually referring to a wide mower that is attached and towed behind or mounted to the three-point hitch of a larger tractor. Some can be more than a dozen feet wide, allowing you to quickly mow large areas.
Finish mower pros and cons
The obvious advantage of a finish mower is the tidy job it does cutting short grass. If you desire picturesque fields of rolling grass—the perfect pastureland—this will help make your dreams reality.
But this precision comes with limitations. Woody plants and overly tall or thick grass can choke or damage the blades of a finish mower. It’s not the right machine for going off the beaten path to clear overgrown fields. That’s the domain of a rough-cut mower.
What is a rough-cut mower?
A rough-cut mower (you might call it a brush hog, bush hog, brush mower, or field mower) isn’t designed to tidily mow short grass. Typically towed behind or mounted to a three-point hitch, a rough cut mower is built to plunge through overgrown fields hacking down tall and thick grass, woody brush, and—in some cases—even sapling trees. Comparatively, a rough-cut mower can seem almost indestructible.
You might think, “Wow, the blades on a rough-cut mower must be sharp to slice through trees.” Actually, the opposite is true. A rough-cut mower features thick, dull blades that bash through obstacles with sheer momentum. They can take a lot of hits while suffering minimal damage.
Rough-cut mower pros and cons
The upsides of a rough-cut mower are obvious. If a farm field has been abandoned for a few years and is overgrown with tall grass, brush, and small trees, mowing everything down with a rough-cut mower is a great first step to restoring the field to service.
On the downside though, a rough-cut mower lives up to its name and generates a rough cut. It’s not a precision instrument meant for manicuring grassy lawns and pastures. You might say it leaves the job unfinished, and you need to pair both mowers to achieve the best results. But before you tackle a second pass with a finish mower, you’ll need to clean up the worst of the debris the rough-cut mower left behind. Sapling trees don’t just pulverize into dust (though a rough-cut mower gives it a good try), and you don’t want to damage your finish mower by hitting hacked-off stumps or pieces of tree trunks.
If your farm fields are in good condition and you have the time to mow them regularly, a finish mower might be all you need. But for restoring abandoned fields, or for cutting back fields in which the grass has gotten too tall, you’ll want to have a rough cut mower on hand.
Hear about how 9/11 spurred Pattie on to start gardening, from zero interest to a need to plant a seed in the name of hope. She tells her story about how she went from growing food for her family to now traveling to learn about farming and to share her knowledge with others.
In 2008, the city Pattie lived in became the newest city in the US: Dunwoody, Georgia. From here, Pattie started following this burgeoning city’s development and was quickly named the Sustainability Commission Chairperson to help pursue Atlanta’s Green Community Certification, which included developing a community garden. (It’s now the largest volunteer-run community garden in Georgia!)
Pattie tells us about growing nearly $2,500 worth of vegetables per year from her suburban property. She talks about having witnessed the loss of the majority of her pollinators over the past 10 years and what she’s doing to educate others about this. With her daughters now out of the household, Pattie decided it was time to travel, and at 56 years old was scheduled to go to Uganda with the Peace Corps. COVID changed those plans — you have to hear about the drama of this situation — and left Pattie with a new travel plan.
If you’ve never planned to leave your garden behind for two years, Pattie talks about this process and then reversing the process when she realized she wasn’t going to Uganda after all.
Listen to Pattie’s tales of traveling around the U.S. for five months in 2023, working on farms and riding bus, bike and train. She explains the WWOOF concept — sometimes called Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms or Working Worldwide on Organic Farms — and how this educational exchange operates. Pattie talks about her $20 per day budget, traveling 10,000 car-free in the U.S.. Her book, Round America with a Duck, outlines all of this in a colorful and engaging way.
If WWOOFing has ever interested you, Pattie offers her advice for valuing your time and expertise while outlining your goals to get the best experience. She talks, too, about preparing yourself for a WWOOFing experience, whether you’re 60 years old (like her) or a college-age explorer.
A small number of turkeys can be raised in a relatively small area.
NEVISON FARMS
If you’ve raised chickens, you have a good basis for raising turkeys. Perhaps you’re considering raising some for the holidays. If so, keep in mind that most commercial breeds will mature between 14 to 22 weeks of age (or 25 to 30 weeks for heritage breeds). You’ll need to purchase birds in late May or early June (heritage) or July (commercial) to be ready come November. Here’s what you need to know to get started raising turkeys.
Eric Nevison from Nevison Farms, Minnesota, keeps Narragansett (pictured) and Royal Palms. NEVISON FARMS
Proper Housing for Raising Turkeys
In “Growing Your Own Thanksgiving Turkeys,” educator Katie Ockert with the Michigan State University Extension writes that turkey poults are raised very similarly to chickens. “They will need to be kept in a brooder for the first six weeks and can then be transferred into a coop setting,” she writes. “Turkeys will need a larger area to grow than chicks due to their size, and size requirements will increase as the turkey grows.”
Growing up to 3 feet tall, turkeys are big birds that require space to thrive. Their housing should certainly be appropriate for the number/size of the birds contained. This is where so many beginners go wrong. Ventilation is vital for all poultry and especially so with turkeys and their housing doesn’t have to be anything too fancy.
I kept my five birds in an 8-by-6-foot garden shed. Old barns/stables can also be easily converted for housing turkeys. Following advice on ventilating, I bored two holes, under each apex to allow a good cross-flow of air. I then covered these holes with a fine wire mesh to prevent admitting vermin.
My birds roosted securely in this shed, spending most of the day roaming outside in my securely fenced orchard. Turkeys like to perch; a 3-inch round wooden pole placed about 3 feet off the ground will provide them with a very comfortable roosting spot.
Whatever form of housing you employ when raising turkeys, I can’t overemphasize the need for adequate ventilation. With poultry, many of us think we need to keep our birds snug and warm, but what we really need to do is keep the air inside the house fresh and moving. This will prevent moisture and ammonia build up, thus keeping birds comfortable and healthy.
Fencing for Raising Turkeys
I used 6-foot high wire fencing when raising turkeys to keep my birds contained and keep out the predators. This works effectively with the stags (male turkeys) but not always so well with the inquisitive hens. Lighter heritage breeds often retain a good flying power.
However, if you keep your birds occupied and they have enough space (a breeding pair will require 90 square feet of space as a minimum) — and providing that they’re well fed —you shouldn’t have too much of a problem with them straying.
Don’t allow turkeys to roam free in the average garden as they’ll quickly destroy new plant growth and flowers. Containing curious turkeys will also allow you to keep them away from harmful plants and other potential hazards.
Sheralan Marrott of Red Top Ranch, Tennessee, raises Bourbon Reds. S. MARROTT/RED TOP RANCH
Feeding Turkeys
Just like chickens, raising turkeys requires a starter crumb (when they are very little), then they are moved onto a grower pellet and, finally, onto a maintenance pellet when they’ve matured.
You can’t however feed a diet suitable for a chicken to a turkey. Turkey poults (chicks) have a far higher protein requirement than young chickens. Feeding them chicken pellets would certainly lead to all kinds of growth and health problems. Thankfully, your local feed-supply store will carry specially formulated turkey feeds that have the necessary protein amounts.
A turkey starter crumb will contain a protein count of between 22% to 24%, and this is usually fed until the poults are 5 to 8 weeks old. This will contain all the protein, trace elements and micronutrients required for normal early development.
Check the manufacturer’s recommendations but, around the 5-to-8-week stage, most poults can slowly be moved across to the growers pellet (preferably one made by the very same manufacturer as that of your chosen chick crumb). Grower pellets have a lower protein count of around 20%.
Turkeys that are fortunate enough to range over a field or orchard will, of course, supplement their pelleted diet with grass and all manner of insects, spiders, worms and even lizards. They also adore treats such as plums, apples, sweetcorn, etc. Cabbages, hung up in their living quarters are excellent at relieving boredom, giving these highly inquisitive birds something to peck at.
A maintenance diet pellet — consisting of 16% protein —is given when the birds reach adulthood. Once turkeys mature, they’re surprisingly hardy birds and capable of surviving the harshest winters completely unscathed.
Ask the Experts
All of us have different regimes when it comes to raising turkeys. I always find this fascinating and informative and a great way to pick up tips. I interviewed two turkey keepers, Eric Nevison from Nevison Farm, Minnesota, who keeps Narragansett and Royal Palms, and Sheralan Marrott of Red Top Ranch, Tennessee, who keeps Bourbon Reds.
Housing:“Currently all our birds live in a barn together,” Nevison says. “I created a coop inside it — two stalls wide — but since the flock has grown so much bigger, we just keep the door open and let them walk around and roost where they see fit each night.”
Marrott has a similar setup. “I have a pen and big coop — part of a barn — for mine for nighttime that has plenty of roosting spaces,” he says. “They prefer a roof overhead to protect them from rain and snow. Mine free-range during the day, and in the summer, they need lots of shade, fresh air with a breeze and shallow dishes of water to stand in to cool down. If predators/extreme weather aren’t a problem, roosts under a shed roof would likely be fine for adult turkeys.”
Fence Height:“Heritage breeds are lighter and better at flying than the broad breasted,” Marrott says. “I have a 4-foot fence, and my turkeys hop/fly over it — even with clipped wings! They then suddenly forget how to fly back, pacing the fence until I help them. In my, admittedly limited experience, grown toms don’t do this, but youngsters and hens looking for a spot to go broody do. I could only guess that a 6-foot fence might keep them in place if their wings were clipped.”
Nevison had a different take. “Turkeys are birds but are not keen on flying unless they need, too,” he says. “Most of ours roost 4 foot from the ground in our barn. I’ve never seen any of our turkeys fly up high, and I think this is possibly because they know that the barn/farm is a safe area with no predators, etc.”
Feed: Nevison feeds his birds corn, wheat mash and black oil sunflower seeds as a main base. “We also bring them all our scraps,” he says. “They will devour a smashed-up pumpkin or squash.”
Marrott insisted that turkeys need a higher protein diet than chickens. “For the first 12 weeks of life, I like a starter feed that’s 28% protein,” he says. “Then I go to a lower protein feed — but at least 20% — for the rest of the time.”
Worming: Do turkeys need worming?This was a particularly interesting question for me as I’m very keen to remain as close to nature as possible with my particular birds.
Marrott hasn’t had to deworm his turkeys in the three years he’s had them. “They have access to wooded and pasture acreage all day, so this likely helps,” he says. “When they are poults, I add herbs to their food and water to keep their systems strong and prevent parasite overload.”
Nevison agrees. “We’ve never wormed any of our birds,” he says.
Heritage Birds
All around the world, more people are going back to the older ways, and when it comes to raising livestock, more and more of us are applying the principles of slow food. This philosophy (started by Carlo Petrini in Italy in the 1980s) envisions a world in which all people can access and enjoy food that is good for them, good for those who grow it and is good for the planet.
Slow food is based on three interconnected principles:
Good: Quality, flavorsome and healthy food.
Clean: Production that doesn’t harm the planet.
Fair: Accessible prices for consumers and fair pay/conditions for workers.
Commercial poults pile on weight fast and grow at an astonishing rate: The toms have so much breast meat they can’t mate naturally (also often suffering skeletal disorders and leg issues) and the hens need artificial insemination. As a more sustainable and ethical alternative, many turkey breeders and consumers are increasingly turning away from those monstrously huge breeds and turning to heritage breeds, which are closer in size and hardiness to their wild ancestors. These birds — although taking longer to rear — also happen to be flavorsome and succulent.
To get started raising turkeys, you’ll need a least a pair of turkeys. They need companions, and a single turkey would not do well all by itself.
These Royal Palm (left) and Slate (right) male turkeys are heritage breeds. JOHNATAPW/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Popular Turkey Breeds
Some of the popular heritage breeds when raising turkeys include the following.
Bronze:This is the bird most people would think of if asked to describe a turkey. With that iridescent sheen upon its feathers — this is the bird of farmyard paintings — familiar to us all. It is the patriarch of all the turkey varieties.
However, rather surprisingly, due to the public’s preference for white birds (that produce a clean-looking carcass with no ugly dark feather stubs) and the commercial breeding of exaggerated, huge-breasted birds – the Bronze faced near extinction in the 1970s. Thankfully a small core of breeders took the Bronze under its protective wing. Show birds are kept to a more normal weight range that doesn’t exceed 24 pounds.
Narragansett:This all-American beauty descends from Black turkeys (brought to America by European settlers in the 1600s) being crossed with wild native turkeys. This has created an extremely hardy bird. Little supplemental feeding was given to these turkeys; they found most of what they needed on the farm.
For a while, although never quite reaching the acclaim of the Bronze, the Narragansett was extremely popular (especially so in the Midwest/mid-Atlantic States) but slowly it fell into the Bronze’s shadow and was finally eclipsed by it. The recent interest in slow food and appreciation for flavorful meat has once again brought this Cinderella of the turkey world out in the limelight.
American as Apple Pie
The wild turkey is native to North America and is a true American icon. Domestication began 2,000 years ago by Native Americans who, very much like now, penned them and used their meat, feathers and bones. For those lucky enough to have wild turkeys visiting the bird feeders in the backyard, you’ll know that the process of domestication must have been relatively simple! They are big, curious birds with a hearty appetite and soon get tame.
All the different breeds, with their dazzling array of colors and feather patterns, found around the world today are descended from the wild birds that fortunately still roam the forests of North America. So, if it’s so American, why is it called a turkey?
Linguist Mario Pei puts forward an interesting idea to explain the bird’s name. He proposes that the first turkeys imported to England came not from North America but via merchant ships from the East. The importers lent their name to these birds, so they became known as turkey cocks/turkey hens — and the name subsequently stuck — the usage becoming widespread.
Author Layla Eplett writes in “Talkin’ ‘Turkey:’ The Linguistic Link Between the Bird and the Country,” a blog for Scientific American, that Pei thinks during the 15th and 16th centuries, the bird’s arrival in Great Britain came via Turkish merchants in Constantinople, who had orignally imported the birds from America. “The British had a lackadaisical habit of naming things after where they arrived from, rather than the place they originated,” she writes. Read more at https://bit.ly/3QGom1d.
Royal Palm:Now for all those who shudder at the turkey’s supposed ugliness: Take a good look at the Royal Palm. These regal stunners first appeared on a farm in Florida in the 1920s —arising randomly from crosses between Narragansett/Bronze and wild turkeys.
These small, active, gloriously colored birds can produce a very good meal for the average family. The hens are also prolific egg layers.
Royal Palms are closer in size and weight (no more than 22 pounds) to their wild ancestors. They make excellent foragers and prove very useful in keeping down numbers of insect pests. Be aware, though, as a light breed, the Royal Palm can certainly fly a bit when the need arises!
Bourbon Red:This distinctive bird, with its rich red feathering was developed in the early 1900s. Once again, it’s a smaller bird, that has high heat tolerance. Former New York Times food columnist Marian Burros declared the Bourbon Red “the tastiest turkey in America,” sparking a nationwide interest in heritage breed turkeys.
Other Breeds:The Livestock Conservancy, a nonprofit membership organization whose mission is to protect endangered livestock and poultry breeds from extinction, and the American Poultry Association also list the following heritage turkey breeds, in addition to the ones I’ve listed: Beltsville Small White, White Holland, Black and Slate.
Blackhead Disease
Turkey poults are generally regarded as being far more delicate than young chickens; they can certainly be more prone to disease and one of the most feared of these diseases is blackhead. This is caused by a protozoan worm that chickens carry, but turkeys suffer from — empathizing the point many turkey keepers make — the necessity to keep chickens and turkeys separate.
Worming every six weeks when raising turkeys disrupts the life cycle of this destructive worm. Several organic breeders now use herbs such as oregano in the feed as well as taking the preventive measure of keeping poults well away from chickens and land where chickens have been kept.
Raising Turkeys for Eggs
Turkey hens take longer than chickens to mature in the egg-laying department. They typically reach it at 7 months but can take up to a year. And while a chicken might lay almost an egg a day, turkeys only lay two to three eggs a week.
Turkey eggs are bigger and have a higher protein content than chicken eggs, and some say a richer taste. Their eggs are usually a creamy white color with speckles and tougher shell.
Turkey hens (females) are smaller than toms (males) and don’t have elaborate tail plumage. NEVISON FARMS
Before you buy any turkeys, check with local authorities, especially if you live in the suburbs, that raising turkeys (or indeed any poultry) is actually allowed. Many modern houses — even those on large plots — don’t allow any livestock to be kept. Make thorough checks before getting started raising turkeys; it would be heartbreaking to settle your birds in and get used to them being around to then be forced to give them up later.
Remember that all poultry needs looking after 365 days a year. Who (in your circle of family or friends) will be willing to feed/water your birds whilst you are away on vacation? And whilst a lot of people who would happily tend a few pet chickens, many would feel rather intimidated by the size and appearance of turkeys.
And last, but not least, it’s always better to retain a cordial relationship with your neighbors. Male turkeys will make their famous “gobble-gobble” sound at the slightest provocation, and hen turkeys aren’t exactly silent either! Therefore, to maintain positive neighborly relations, inform them of your plans and win them over to your ambitions of raising turkeys.
Raising chickens for beginners can seem daunting. Here are 15 bits of wisdom from experienced chicken keepers that they wish they’d known before getting chicks.
1. Health Knowledge
I wish I had read more about common chicken ailments before getting chickens.
Finding a large-animal veterinarian in many areas of the country is difficult, but finding vets with a poultry persuasion can be even more difficult. When raising chickens for beginners, the key is finding a vet who will care for chickens before you need him or her, if possible. If no vets with poultry experience are available, read as much as you can about common ailments, how to diagnose ill chickens and how to care for them.
“Chickens get sick,” says Christine Wright of Stamping Ground, Kentucky. “Be ready for it, don’t beat yourself up and don’t give up.” Also, don’t underestimate the knowledge (and concern) of online chicken communities. Consider joining a quality chicken group on social media or through a poultry website, and bookmark blogs that provide guidance for chicken owners.
Learning how to do a lot of things for yourself is often the key to successful chicken-keeping especially when raising chickens for beginners. “I learned how to make a nontoxic [balm] out of food coloring to cover wounds and bald spots to prevent other chickens from pecking the area,” says Kimberly Jakubec of Austintown, Ohio. Other chicken owners learned on the fly how to administer penicillin shots. Amanda Estep of Georgetown, Kentucky, wishes she’d known what medications to have on hand and how to deworm.
Bottom Line:Locate a vet or have a chicken community at the ready to help you through injuries, ailments, and emergencies.
If you mail-order chickens, be sure you don’t get a whole flock of males without a plan for rehoming them. STEPHANIE FREY/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
2. Arrival Instructions
I wish I had truly understood how chickens arrive when you mail-order them.
“Read the fine print from hatcheries if ordering online,” says Melanie Sprinkle from Lexington, Kentucky. “Males packed for warmth” is an important phrase and one to consider if you’re delving into chickens with children in the household. “We received 21 male chicks to go with nine females we ordered,” Melanie says.
“Even if you buy what’s advertised as only pullets, it’s not a guarantee unless you’re getting a sex-link breed where males and females look different at hatch,” says Maddie Johnson of Georgetown, Kentucky.
Bottom Line:Be prepared to think outside the box for end-of-life decisions if keeping roosters is not on your agenda.
3. Dirty Birds
I wish I had known how dusty chicks are.
“I wish I had known how much dander chicks give off and how dusty their brooder can get between their feathers coming in and the pine shavings,” says Julie Jacobson of Whittier, North Carolina. “I also didn’t know I would be allergic to baby chicks! I brooded chicks in my home twice because it was too cold outside, and from now on, any baby chicks I get will have to be raised by mama hens outside in the coop!”
Kristin Werner of Georgetown, Kentucky, agrees. “It really is surprising how much dust things so little can kick up! Having a broody hen do the chick-raising work outside in the coop for my second round of chicks was clutch.”
Bottom Line:Buy extra cleaning supplies, and be prepared to dedicate time to cleaning around their brooder if raising chicks indoors. Additionally, when raising chickens for beginners, if family members suffer from allergies or asthma, think long and hard about raising chicks indoors.
Many breeds are cold-hardy and aren’t concerned with falling temperatures. BLESSINGS CAPTURED/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
4. Temperature Control
I wish I had bought a brooder plate.
Chicks can be fickle, especially about temperature, and human homes are often nearly 20 to 30 degrees too cold for them to survive. Newly hatched chicks require temperatures of 95 degrees Fahrenheit for the first week, with required temps dropping by 5 degrees each week until they’re ready to live outside.
Fire in coops or homes is a very real concern when using heat lamps to keep chicks warm – even those specifically designed for use with newly hatched birds. It’s imperative that you use a base specifically made for heat bulbs, which can damage inappropriate lamps. Bulbs should be kept a minimum of 2 feet from combustible materials.
Because of this, “just get the brooder [heat] plate!” is a common refrain and those who hatch out multiple clutches will rest easier knowing that the heat source they’re using is safer and more energy efficient than a heat lamp.
Additionally, the heat plate’s lack of a bulb can reduce the likelihood of behaviors sometimes seen with clear heat lamp bulbs, such as the interruption of the chicken’s sleep cycle, higher stress or feather picking.
Bottom Line:Buy the plate.
5. Hardiness
I wish I had known how cold-tolerant chickens are.
Many chicken owners, especially those in the Northeast, are concerned about their chickens staying comfortable in colder temperatures. While this is a concern, hens often struggle more in warmer weather.
If you’re raising chickens for beginners, diligent research about the breeds best suited to your climate is key. While some adaptations can be made to keep hens comfy, it’s often easier to get breeds that won’t struggle in your climate.
Concerned about the chilly weather, Jacobson placed her coop in a sunny spot. “I wish I would have placed the coop in the shade because the summer sun is way harder on them!” she says. “We ended up having to build a covered run to give them relief from the heat.
Bottom Line: Research breeds diligently before bringing baby birds home.
KORY/STOCK.ADOBE.COM l
6. A Big Chicken Coop is Better
I wish I had built a bigger coop.
When it comes to hen shelter, bigger is often better. “I wish I had bought or built our coop with cleaning in mind,” says Krista Lea of Versailles, Kentucky. “Our coop has a small inside part above the ground area and I can’t get it clean; you have to crawl in to even make a good attempt! I really want a full-sized shed I can walk into and sweep out.”
Estep says that putting linoleum on the floor of her coop was a game changer. Also, learning about the different types of bedding and the amount of dust and breakdown each has, as well as how often it needs to be cleaned was imperative to keeping her flock healthy.
“Truly, you need at least double the size of coop you think you need,” says Marion Maybank of Missoula, Montana.
Bottom Line:Whatever size coop you think you need, build bigger.
7. Security Risks
I wish I had known what “predator proof” was.
“Almost everything will try to eat your chickens, so chicken wire is the worst choice when building runs and coops, despite its name,” Jakubec says. “A cement pad is a great investment for an enclosed run for predator control [to keep them from digging under the fence] and you can add dirt and sand and grow greens in it for the chickens, too!”
Protecting the flock is often the biggest challenge a backyard flock owner will face. When raising chickens for beginners, it can be shocking how cunning (and dedicated!) predators can be when trying to get a tasty chicken treat, so ensuring that chickens return to roost at night is imperative to their safety.
Never let chickens roost outside, and use ¼-inch hardware cloth — even on windows —to keep predators at bay. You’ll need to bury the cloth to thwart predators from tunneling under the coop and invest in complex latches to keep raccoons from opening coop doors. Additional measures that may be helpful include using livestock guardian animals or guinea hens to alert the chickens (and you) to danger.
Bottom Line:There is no such thing as too many measures to help keep your chickens safe from predators.
Chickens can be very dusty. FOTORAUSCHEN/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
8. Chickens Like to Dig
I wish I had known how much they dig.
Leah Alessandroni of Midway, Kentucky, wishes she had known how much they dig. And we don’t mean just shallow depressions for dust baths. Chickens can create deep holes in yards and gardens, making chicken keepers susceptible to a rolled ankle if they’re not careful. Once a hole has been started, it’s difficult to get chickens to leave it alone. Of specific concern are holes dug near fence lines; if hardware cloth isn’t buried, chickens may dig deeply enough to escape their enclosure.
Bottom Line:Fence chickens out of areas where you’d like to prevent repeated holes and be cognizant of holes near fence lines.
9. Socialize Chickens Early
I wish I had handled them more.
Chicks are so tiny that you may be reluctant to hold them for fear of injuring them. While care should be taken, it’s helpful to hold and handle chicks regularly. “Handling them [chicks] often while they’re young makes it much easier to provide care and examine them when they’re adults,” Estep says.
This handling is especially helpful when battling “pasty butt,” a condition that requires a chick to beheld and her vent be cleaned with warm water to ensure their health.
“Let your kids socialize them,” says Paige Adams of Eddyville, Kentucky. They’ll get used to being handled quickly!
Bottom Line:Handle chicks often to ensure their wellbeing later in life.
Chickens bring so much joy to a home. CHERRYANDBEES/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
10. Be Secure
I wish I had understood biosecurity better.
Accidentally introducing disease into your flock is a difficult lesson to learn, and once you see how sick chickens can get, it’s a mistake you won’t want to repeat. Asking if chicks have been vaccinated for coccidia (or feeding them medicated feed) can save you a lot of trouble down the road. “I also get my chicks vaccinated against Mareks,” says Lindsey Leach of Harrodsburg, Kentucky.
Always quarantine new flock members for at least two weeks, don’t share tools or supplies with other chicken keepers (or be sure to disinfect them well when they come home), and know the signs of illness.
Bottom Line: Having stringent biosecurity measures in place will keep your flock healthy and happy.
11. Quality Tools Rule
I wish I had invested in quality tools. If you want to fast-track your way to chicken-keeping frustration, buy cheap tools. “Invest in a nice 5-gallon feeder bucket and galvanized waterer with the heated base,” Adams says. “All the money you spend on the cheap, plastic ones is wasted when they crack!”
Lea says that chick nipple-style drinkers make a huge difference in keeping the water clean and the brooder dry. Quality puppy playpens are also helpful in containing chicks and thwarting frustration, says Leach.
“I wish I had known about poop trays when I first got chickens,” says Patty Broner of Sadieville, Kentucky. “Build you roosts with a tray underneath them, fill the tray with [nesting/bedding material], and spend 5 minutes every morning cleaning the ‘litter box’ with a scoop and a bucket. This saves a ton on bedding as most ‘poopage’ happens at night while the hens sleep. It also greatly reduces the smell and almost no flies!”
Bottom Line: Spend the money upfront to reduce frustration later.
Amanda Estep of Georgetown, Kentucky, wishes she’d known what medications to have on hand and how to deworm her flock. COURTESY AMANDA ESTEP
12. Automate the Chicken Coop
I wish I had automated everything.
“Automate whatever you can,” Estep says. This could include installing a solar-powered coop door on a timer (and that has a remote), using big gravity-fed feeders, placing coop lights that are on timers or utilizing solar-powered fans for moisture control and cooling.
Bottom Line:Installing automated tools saves time and energy.
13. Free Eggs Aren’t Free
I wish I knew that I wouldn’t be saving any money on my egg bill.
Though your grocery bill isn’t likely to decrease with the acquisition of chicks, your eggs will be better tasting than anything you could buy in a store. Additionally, think of all the other benefits you’ll receive, such as fertilizer, bug patrol and elimination, endless entertainment, aeration assistance and so much more.
Bottom Line:Backyard birds will give you the tastiest eggs you’ve ever had and a bunch of other bonuses.
14. Learn Math
I wish I knew that chicken math is real.
It’s a legitimate thing; ask anyone with a backyard flock. “You start out wanting four, but two weeks later, you want more and magically four chickens turns to eight,” Adams says. “Then you find a ‘chicken dealer’ and before you know it you have 20 because you always see another pretty breed you must own.”
Bottom Line:“They become a lifelong addiction,” says Amanda Reho of Midway, Kentucky.
Chickens dig holes to bathe themselves and to simply have fun. It’s a natural behavior, but it can be annoying. DUNCAN ANDISON/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
15. Joy to the World
I wish I had known how much happiness they would bring me.
“I wish I knew how easy it is to have them,” says Elizabeth Finnegan of South Beloit, Illinois. “I wouldn’t have put it off for so long! They have a lot more personality than one might expect, and they really are very low maintenance.”
“I never knew how much I’d be entertained watching chicken TV,” Broner says.
Bottom Line:Chicks will enhance your life in more ways than you could ever dream.
This story about raising chickens for beginners was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
A new shipment of chicks arrives from the hatchery. Wait until a minimum age of 6 weeks old before introducing them to the rest of your flock. If possible, wait until they are 8 to 12 weeks old before turning them loose.
TUTYE/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Knowing how to add new chickens to your flock is good information because it’s a task that most chicken keepers will face in their journey. It’s an exciting time for chicken keepers. However, integrating new members into an existing flock is a stressful time for chickens, and if not properly managed, it can become a massive headache for backyard chicken keepers.
Stress from overcrowding, feed bill costs, and where and when to purchase are just some things to consider before purchasing new chickens. So, before doing something spontaneous, plan ahead to help your wallet and flock transition smoothly.
To begin, figure out when is the right time to buy new birds. Of course, this primarily depends on your needs. Maybe two of your elderly hens have passed away, or you want to expand your flock and start your own egg business. Or you just started keeping chickens and want to expand your flock. Poultry keepers choose to increase their flocks for many reasons, but how do you know when is the right time to act?
Any of these reasons might be the right time to enact on growing your flock. It isn’t about not increasing the birds you keep; it’s about doing it responsibly. So, if you’re ready to purchase new chickens, consider a few important things before bringing home your new arrivals: breed selection, higher feed costs and more space.
LINAS T/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Breed Selection
Breed consideration is an essential part of knowing how to add new chickens to your flock. We raise chickens for many different reasons, including meat and eggs (dual purpose), pest control, and companionship. Considering Golden Comets over White Leghorns makes sense if you’re looking for an excellent egg layer with a friendly disposition. But, if a high feed-to-egg ratio is essential, the leghorn might be the better option. For many poultry enthusiasts, egg color also significantly influences what breed(s) to choose. If you want chocolate brown eggs, get a Marans. Green or blue eggs, try an Easter Egger. Once you’ve selected what breed(s) to add, it’s time to see if they fit your flock well. Do you have a bully in your flock? If yes, bringing home a shy or docile breed that is easily bullied, such as an Eater Eggers or Salmon Faverolles, isn’t the best option. Or if you have a flock of Polish and Silkies, adding some Rhode Island Reds to the mix could end in disaster. Do your research, and get breeds that work well with each other.
Feed Costs
Chickens may only eat a little feed per bird, but adding more chickens to the flock will increase the feed consumption. If you’re raising chickens for profit, the more birds you have, the more profit you’ll make. However, this could pose a concern for the backyard chicken-keeper raising chickens simply for enjoyment.
The cost of your monthly feed bill will depend on the number of birds in the flock, the feed brand and whether you feed organic feed. Generally, a chicken should eat about half a cup of feed daily —varying on breed, access to green pastures and even the time of year, as chickens tend to eat less in summer and more in winter. A flock of 10 chickens will eat approximately two and a half pounds of feed daily. However, this will vary due to each flock member’s breed, age and metabolism.
After new birds are added to the flock, monitor them for success or fallouts.
More Space in Coop & Run
A major mistake a chicken keeper can make when acquiring new birds is failing to have adequate spacing in the coop and run. Chickens living in crowded conditions are more stressed, have increased chances of contracting respiratory issues and other health problems, and are more likely to feather pick, egg eat, and display other cannibalistic behaviors.
Experts suggest supplying at least 10 square feet in the coop, 15 square feet of run space, and 10 inches of perch space per hen, but giving your birds even more space is a good idea.
Even though our flocks like to be outside free-ranging as much as possible, there are times when leaving the coop isn’t a safe option. Heavy snowstorms, high winds, hurricanes and predators are all possible scenarios that may require your chickens to spend a day or two inside their snug coop. For these reasons, building a larger coop and run than you need will make your chickens less grumpy when they need to stay indoors.
When building the run, always plan for a larger run than the number of birds you plan to house. This practice ensures your hens will have more access to green grass. (This is especially important for chickens housed in a permanent run.)
Expanding your flock may include building on your existing coop and run, or depending on your setup, buying a separate coop and run may be the best option. Building onto the current enclosure is usually the more affordable option; however, buying might be preferred if you aren’t handy with tools.
Whether you build or buy isn’t as crucial as ensuring there is enough room to house chickens without overcrowding. Always have additional housing set up and ready for the new arrivals before acquiring new birds.
Acquiring New Chickens
There are many ways to expand your flock, from purchasing chicks from the local hatchery or feed store to adopting a hen or rooster from your local animal shelter. Personal preference plays a part in deciding what option you choose, so let’s look over some of the popular choices.
Chicks:The most popular choice backyard chicken keepers choose to expand their flocks, chicks are difficult to resist with their tiny size, adorable faces and loud cheeps. Purchase chicks from a reputable source to ensure bringing home some healthy additions to your flock.
Hatcheries are the best and most popular way to purchase new chicks or hatching eggs. While many hatcheries require a minimum of 25 chicks per order, some have dropped those numbers to as little as three during the warmer months. When purchasing hatching eggs or chicks, try to purchase from hatcheries that support the National Poultry Improvement Plan (NPIP).
Don’t Get Greedy
Getting more chicks or chickens when you don’t have room for them causes overcrowding in the coop and run and increases your flock’s stress levels. Stressed chickens are more likely to feather pick (a behavior leading to cannibalism) and can cause egg eating or reduced egg production.
The best way to overcome this issue is simply not giving in to “collecting” chickens. Let’s face it: If you go to the feed-supply store with even the slightest possibility of coming home with chicks you don’t have room for, you’ll do it. So, get disciplined. Trust me, it’s much easier to avoid if you tell yourself you can’t.
Avoid feed-supply stores and other places that sell chicks during spring chick days. Buy extra feed or other necessary supplies ahead of time to avoid unplanned chick purchases. And stay off the hatchery websites unless you’re actively planning on adding to your flock. Finally, don’t attend poultry swaps. The temptation can be overcome, so don’t put yourself in a position where you won’t be able to resist.
Hatch your own. If you have a broody hen and some fertile eggs on your hands, hatching your own can be very rewarding. Some poultry-keepers prefer to hatch their own to avoid the stress of shipping chicks through the mail.
A feed-supply store is another great way to bring home new chicks. While they may occasionally have chicks for sale, most stores require you to place your order in the winter months for spring arrivals.
Craigslist is a popular place to find chicks, but it should be avoided whenever possible. Chicks from backyard flock-keepers may carry harmful bacteria such as E. coli or salmonella that will spread to an existing flock.
Adult Birds: While some backyard chicken keepers prefer bringing adult birds home versus raising chicks, there may be better options than this practice. Adult chickens are more likely to carry diseases or parasites than chicks. Follow these guidelines to help keep all your chickens healthy.
Rescue Birds
Just like dogs and cats, chickens sadly get dumped on the side of the road, too. These chickens may wander into your backyard, be found in a mall parking lot or be temporary residents at a local animal shelter. Rescue chickens have much to offer those wanting to make a difference for chickens in need. When rescuing chickens, take the same precautions when purchasing adult hens to ensure everyone stays safe and healthy.
• Whether or not you purchase chickens vaccinated for Marek’s disease will depend on whether your current flock is vaccinated. Housing vaccinated chickens with unvaccinated chickens could result in sick birds.
• Buy from a reputable source. Poultry shows and swaps are a great way to bring home some new hens but also a great way to bring home disease. Purchasing started pullets from a reputable hatchery supporting the NPIP is a safer option, as these come fully vaccinated and have been tested to ensure they aren’t contracting a disease.
• Quarantine new chickens for at least 30 days before interacting with the resident chickens. Wear separate clothes and shoes to tend to the new chickens during the quarantine process. Tend to the established flock first, and wash your hands and face between interactions.
• Get them checked. Before allowing the newly purchased adult hens to intermingle with the flock, have a licensed veterinarian examine them for possible health concerns, including internal and external parasites.
When creating a mixed flock, choose breeds with similar temperaments, as docile breeds tend to be bullied by more assertive breeds. JACQUELINE ANDERS/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Integrating New Members
Despite our best efforts, chickens can still spend much time bickering when introduced to new members. Adding additional feeders and waterers may ease some of the tension in the flock by providing chickens with more options to eat and drink while avoiding the flock bully(s).
Before allowing existing and new flock members to mingle, allow chickens to get to know each other through opposite sides of the fence. Doing so enables your flock to establish the new pecking order and smoothly transition. Introducing new members in a run versus the coop is another way to reduce pecking order issues.
Often, it can take several introductions before your flock will accept new members. With patience and ample space, your chickens will soon adjust to their new flock mates, bringing harmony to the coop.
This story about how to add new chickens to your flock was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
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This simple flatbread recipe is loaded with bright spring flavors. It’s ideal for using leftover chicken whether it’s shredded chicken thighs from the grill or chopped breast from a roasted whole chicken. Mozzarella cheese is used here, but Monterey jack and Swiss are other good options. You’ll need a 1-pound ball of pizza dough, either store-bought or homemade.
Premade flatbread or pizza crust can be used, but adjust baking time according to package directions.
Servings: 4 as a meal, 8 to 10 as an appetizer
Ingredients
½ cup prepared crème fraiche
2 scallions, chopped, white and green portions separated
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Grease two baking sheets or a large round pizza pan with butter or cooking oil.
Add the crème fraiche to a small bowl. Add 1 tablespoon of the green portion of the scallions, the tarragon, parsley, garlic and salt. Stir until all ingredients are combined, and set aside.
Divide the pizza dough into two. Roll or stretch each piece into an oval about 8 by 11 inches. Place each on a prepared baking sheet or both on a large pizza pan. Spread an equal amount of the crème fraiche with the herbs over each oval of dough, covering it evenly and all the way to the edges.
Reserve ¼ of the cheese and divide the rest over each flatbread. Scatter 1 cup of chicken over each of the flatbreads. Top with an equal amount of asparagus, spinach and the remaining green and white portions of the scallions. Divide the reserved cheese, and sprinkle over each flatbread.
Bake for 13 to 15 minutes, until the crust is browned and the cheese is melted. Remove from the oven, sprinkle each flatbread with diced radishes and garnish with parsley. Slice into rectangles and serve.
This chicken spring vegetable flatbread recipe originally appeared in the March/April issue of Chickens. Click here to subscribe.
Pasture-raised chickens might seem unusual as modern practices mean meat is purchased from the grocery store from birds raised in an industrial setting. We forget, sometimes, that this practice of mass-raising chickens is relatively new, having become commonplace in only the last 50-70 years.
Before that, pasture-raised chickens were almost exclusively the norm. Either “free range” – entirely unpenned and free to roam – or “yarding.” As the name suggests, this was where birds were fenced into someone’s yard, otherwise unrestrained but with less territory than they might have wanted otherwise.
Pasture chickens
These methods of raising birds are beginning to increase in popularity again, as customer demand for humanely raised and organic meat grows. In one study, only trained taste testers could tell the difference between pasture-raised chickens and conventionally-raised birds, but untrained consumers still expressed preference for birds raised with outdoor access.
The Problems with Pasture-Raised Chickens
Pasture raising is, by no means, a perfect system. Many farmers moved to raising birds in confinement out of necessity, especially once raising large numbers of birds became more common. Free-ranging requires more area, and when dealing with thousands of chickens, this can result in significant costs to the breeders.
Some studies suggest that, without environmental enrichment, few birds will even use the outside areas if they are provided. However, birds placed in pastures or runs that included shaded areas, places to hide and spaces for dust bathing were not only more likely to use the outdoor areas but suffered lower rates of predation.
Loss of chickens due to predation is a serious risk that can cut into profits. Since many farmers sell to middlemen who set their prices, these added expenses can make it impossible to break even. Protecting birds while still allowing access to pasture means building special, portable shelters and having the people to move them daily.
Stressed About Sickness
Surprisingly, while industrial breeders regularly express concerns about illness in pasture-raised chickens, results on this have been mixed. With rates of salmonella causing the recall and destruction of thousands of pounds of chicken in 2023, one of the concerns is that outdoor access may put birds at greater risk of contamination. According to the Humane Society (2002) no evidence can be found that pasture-raised birds are more likely to develop salmonella. In fact, they may be less likely due to the decrease in crowding.
One 2015 study showed that fast-growing birds had higher rates of mortality than slow-growing breeds when both were raised on pasture. However, this is generally the case in industrial chicken-raising as well, since fast-growing broilers are known for leg, heart and other health issues. In another, 2011 study, fast-growing broilers raised outdoors had a significantly lower level of mortality than those raised indoors, suggesting the outdoor birds were healthier. Many studies concluded that the mortality rates of pasture-raised birds likely vary based on the breed of birds and the experience of the breeder with this type of breeding.
Why Freedom is Fantastic
Pasture-raised chickens have been shown to be higher in protein than industrially-raised birds, as well as having less abdominal fat. Some studies also suggest they may also have higher levels of healthy vitamins and minerals. Despite the lower fat content, the flavor of pasture-raised birds had been deemed preferable by most professional testers. The unique herbs, clovers or grasses the chickens eat can give the birds a richer, more distinct flavor than grain alone.
For those who can overcome the issues with pasture raising, the benefits can far outweigh the downsides. Many farmers who practice pastured poultry gain a niche market that attracts those interested in both humanely raised birds and those interested in better nutrition. They can often sell directly to consumers, allowing them a higher profit margin than those going through major grocery-chain suppliers. All of this while giving their birds a higher quality of life.
This story about pasture-raised chickens was written for Chickens magazine online. Click here to subscribe.
Free-range chickens are among the healthiest and happiest of chickens, and they produce amazingly nutritious eggs. Plus, they have no rivals when it comes to simplicity.
The term “free-range” describes a method of farming that allows animals to roam free outdoors. The term is often loosely applied when it comes to egg carton labels. A true free-range bird, however, is allowed to roam without the boundary of interior fences. A free-range chicken is a rare breed but arguably the best chicken to keep, raise and provide breakfast. Free-ranging does more than provide healthy chickens and eggs, though; it provides a healthier setting for the chicken keepers and the environment. To properly keep them, you need only a nighttime coop and plenty of space.
Free range chickens
A Higher Place
In order to remain healthy, a chicken needs exercise, a healthy living environment, plenty of fresh water and a nutritious diet. The free-range bird gets it all.
Foraging for meals does more than produce healthy eggs. Free-range chickens get more exercise and sunlight and are generally happier. A hen that is allowed to spend her day roaming the fields and woodlines searching for her next grub or treat is a happy hen. Observe a few chickens for a short time, and you’ll undoubtedly see how much they enjoy the “hunt.” Scratching and pecking are more than just a pastime; it’s what chickens do. A mother hen wastes no time before teaching her brood of chicks the art of scratching out a living.
Free-range chickens get a lot of exercise, so weight is rarely a problem. When chickens are fed too many treats and don’t get enough exercise, it can result in health issues. Chickens that roam free typically burn more calories on their quests for food and snacks, keeping them svelte and fit.
A chicken’s nutritional requirements are also simplified with free-ranging. With an accommodating landscape at her beak, a hen will naturally consume a healthy diet. A chicken’s native sustenance consists of berries, seeds, insects, grubs and greens. These naturally sourced foods provide the carbohydrates, oil, protein, vitamins and minerals the chicken needs.
Breakdown
Farmers have paired chickens and cows together for years for sustainable agriculture. When this duo is allowed to coexist, the farm, the animals and the environment benefit: Cows keep the grasses mowed down so the chickens can get to all the bugs and seeds, and the cows “feed” the chickens for free, as chickens love breaking down and scratching through cow pies.
An amazing amount of nutrition can be scavenged from cow droppings: undigested grain, seeds, maggots, grubs and even bits of manure. As unappetizing as it sounds, manure provides many essential vitamins and other nutrients to the chicken.
“There is a benefit to keeping chickens and cows together or to allowing chickens to forage on pastures previously used by cows,” notes Jacquie Jacob, poultry extension project manager at the University of Kentucky in “Interactions of Chickens in Small and Backyard Poultry Flocks with Other Species.”
“The chickens will eat any feed that the cows have dropped and will peck through cow manure looking for larvae. A cattle-chicken rotational system is good for reducing fly problems.”
This team is also great for the pastures because the chickens scatter the cow pies, allowing the manure to compost more quickly and easily into the earth. This prevents dead spots, reduces diseases and controls bug populations. Perhaps one of the best ways to keep the flies off the farm is to get a flock of free-range chickens.
Learning to Fly
Free-range chickens also are beneficial for farmers and farms. Because the chicken is allowed to scour the land for food, it will consume less commercial chicken feed, especially in lush landscapes flourishing with chicken delicacies. This can save the farmer substantial amounts of money. During most seasons in moderate climates, a chicken with the freedom to explore can be quite resourceful. There are plenty of edible feasts found on homesteads everywhere. The pastures, the ground under rabbit hutches, pig pens, gardens, compost bins and even the barn floor provide meals to the unrestricted chicken.
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The chicken keeper can save money on grit as well with free-ranging. Because chickens don’t have teeth, they rely on their gizzard and a bit of grit to “chew” their food. In most circumstances, free-ranging chickens gather all the grit they need from the wild. Bits of rock, sand and rubble will make their way into the chicken’s diet naturally.
Ultimately, a healthier chicken means healthier eggs for the farmer to consume and sell. The diet of the free-range chickens is fresher, more organic and less processed. Just like humans, chickens are healthier when they eat a fresh, raw, natural diet. Likewise, the eggs from these free-range flocks pack more nutrition than those of their confined counterparts. A free-range chicken egg has a yolk that glows with nutritional supremacy. The bright-orange color isn’t a sign of freshness; it’s a sign of excellent nutritional value within the egg and a sign of a healthy hen.
Another benefit of keeping free-range chickens is the simplicity of this farming method. No fences must be erected. No gates need to be hung. No runs, birdcages or chicken tractors are needed. The only necessity of the free-range chicken is its home. By keeping chickens free, the amount of space necessary inside the coop is also reduced. When chickens are allowed to roam free, they need only enough space on the roosting bars to comfortably sleep at night, at least 8 inches of roosting bar per bird.
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Free Falling
Free-range chickens are also great for the environment and cause less pressure on land. With free-ranging, the chicken keeper never faces the problem of a desolate, disgusting chicken run. When chickens are penned in, it’s only a matter of time before they have their way with the area. It happens all the time. A well-intentioned, egg-loving soul decides to raise a few laying hens. She fences off a beautiful chicken space in the corner of the yard and puts up a coop.
Before much time passes, the pretty, green yard is transformed into a desert, void of all life. Inevitably, nothing remains to scratch and peck, leaving the chickens to rely solely on their keeper—and usually a bag of feed—for sustenance.
This is never the destiny of the free-range bird. The world is her buffet, and as long as she is up for the hunt, the food is there for the taking. Because free chickens are not concentrated to one section of the land, the landscape doesn’t suffer from too much pressure.
Farmers can also reduce the insect and bug populations on their property with free-ranging. Chickens are excellent exterminators. They eat just about any insect or bug. Chickens enjoy ticks, creepy-crawly bugs and even eat the fly larvae out of manure.
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Here Come My Girls
Getting started with a flock of free-range chickens is easy. Start by choosing the right real estate for the flock’s new abode. When deciding where to erect the chicken coop, consider the following.
First and foremost, the location should be a safe one. Thick, wooded areas or wood lines might not be the ideal location for the chicken coop. Although tree cover can provide some protection from overhead predators, such as hawks, the woods are often home to many other predators seeking a chicken dinner. A vulnerable flock of hens is often safer with the coop in a field or other open space with only a few trees.
Once you’ve selected the location, you can move the birds to their new home. Free-range chickens must be trained to come home to roost at night. This is a simple process that begins with “chicken camp.” After the chickens are old enough to be free from a brooder, they can be safely welcomed to the coop.
Begin by confining the chickens to the coop for a few days. During this time, you’ll need to provide a high-quality chicken feed and plenty of fresh water inside the coop. Refill the food and water each day. To train a flock of chickens to come when called, simply say “here-chick-chick-chick” each time food is replenished. They will quickly learn that this call means dinner, and they’ll come running when they hear it.
After about four days, open the chicken door and let the chickens come out at their own pace. They will return to their home through the same door each day at sundown. For the first days or weeks, the chickens will probably stay close to their home. Before long, they will adventure over the hills and through the barns looking for good things to eat.
Timid chickens can be encouraged to free-range. Lead the flock to the areas that contain some good chicken snacks and simply sprinkle down a little feed. You can also encourage chickens to free-range by offering a variety of foods. Chickens that eat only commercial feed might not recognize greens or seeds as food. Providing healthy kitchen scraps or garden scraps to chickens regularly opens their eyes to new and delicious chow. The more experience a flock of chickens has with free-ranging, the more proficient it becomes.
Keep watch over the chickens and offer free-choice feed as needed to supplement their diet. The free-range chicken soon learns where to find the best meals and probably starts to ignore the store-bought feed, greatly reducing your feed bills and producing a happy farmer.
If removing all the chicken tractors, runs and fences seems irresponsible and risky, just relax. Free-range chickens might be some of the safest of chickens. Because they are constantly on the hunt for nutrients, they are usually healthier, slimmer and more energetic. This makes the escape from a hungry predator far more likely.
Additionally, with the freedom to forage also comes the freedom to evade predators. Many attacks on chickens happen right in their homes or runs. Being trapped in a run can also mean having no way to escape a hungry varmint.
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You’re So Bad
Predators can pose a real risk to free-ranging situations, suggests Terry E. Poole, principal agent emeritus at the University of Maryland Extension, in “Introduction to Developing a Free-Range Poultry Enterprise.”
Building an effective perimeter fence around your property is a good start. Poole states that the fence should be at least 6 feet high and have a small enough mesh that predators cannot squeeze through. He also recommends that the perimeter fence be buried at least 6 inches in the soil to prevent predators from digging underneath. Electric wire can be added near the base of the fence to stop diggers and at the top to prevent predators from climbing over the fence.
“Another good preventative practice is to keep pastures mowed or grazed down,” Poole says. “This practice eliminates much of the cover preferred by predators that are more comfortable approaching prey unseen in the tall grass.”
Free-ranging, like other chicken-keeping methods, is not perfect; however, it does provide a great life for chicken and chicken keeper alike, and it’s better for the environment. Free-range chickens live healthier, happier lives filled with fresh, real foods.
The free-range method is simple to embrace and put into action. It undeniably provides the tastiest, most nutritious eggs and meat on the planet while allowing chickens to fulfill their destiny as hunters and peckers.
This story about raising free-range chickens originally appeared in the May/June 2018 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
If you are searching for your dream farm, this podcast episode with Bonnie Warndahl has you covered. Bonnie searched for years to find the property that is now her Winnowburrow Farm and Florals, in Colfax, Wisconsin. Listen to Bonnie’s story about how she came to be interested in gardening and stewarding land. (Thanks, Barbara Kingsolver!) Follow her journey through various programs to learn about farm business, renting farmland as a beginning farmer, losing a farmland deal, and finally finding and purchasing her dream farm.
Warndahl talks about the Renewing the Countryside nonprofit that she works with as a farmland access specialist. From food hubs to farm-to-childcare and connecting farmers with farmland, the organization is building a regional network to prop up farmers of all kinds. The Farmland Access Hub helps assess farmers’ readiness for land access, guides farmers in their loan applications, and provides resources to help farmers with their land search and purchase.
Dive into the facts about why farmland access is so hard as well as why it’s so vital. “It’s important for people to understand how dire of a situation we are in, unbeknownst to so many people,” Warndahl says. She continues, talking about an impending food crisis facing the US, given the confluence of the advancing age of farmers, farmland real estate prices and fewer new farmers coming in to replace those who are retiring. Hear about federal and state policy solutions that may help ease some of the issues complicating the current farmland-access crisis.
Get Warndahl’s best advice for your farmland search, from her lived experience as a beginning farmer trying to purchase land as well as her professional experience as a farmland access specialist. Start by preparing yourself, knowing how and why you’re farming, and exploring all manner of outlets to search for land. Best of all, find out how you can get connected to farmland access assistance!
Finally, hear about Warndahl’s Winnowburrow Farm and Florals. While Bonnie is currently focusing on her farmland access specialist work, she has big plans for this farm and retreat space.
