Categories
Poultry

When Can Chicks Go Outside: From Brooder to Coop

when-can-chicks-go-outside
Shutterstock

When can chicks go outside and move from the brooder to the coop? It’s a question many ask as the brooder that seemed so immense is now full and the dust is pretty much everywhere. Yes, folks, your babies are just about ready for the coop.

While each breed’s young develops at a different rate, by the time the little ones are fully feathered—usually between six to nine weeks of age—it’s time to transition them to the outdoors.

Be aware, however, that moving chicks outside doesn’t simply mean plunking the poor, confused babies into a huge, scary, unfamiliar coop and shutting the door. I personally know three chicken keepers who did this, then consulted with me as to why their once-loving chicks were so fearful, weak and sickly—or dead. To ensure that your young flock thrives in its new home, follow these four steps to transition success.

1. Provide an Accessible Coop Environment

chicken coop cleaning
Shutterstock

A coop for adult chickens is not necessarily equipped to receive younger birds. Perches installed at a height intended for a full-grown flock might be out of the reach of juveniles. The same might be true of hanging feeders and of watering systems featuring nipple drippers. When setting up your coop, make all of these adjustable so that, as your birds grow into their maturity, the perch, feeder and waterer can be raised to heights more appropriate for them. If your coop is elevated, make certain that the ramp you install is at a gentle enough angle to allow the little chickens to reach their pop door.

2. Secure Your Run

when-can-chicks-go-outside
Josh Larios/Flickr

If your growing chicks will be contained within a chicken run, inspect the area thoroughly for potential safety issues. Use a hard rake and shovel to even out the ground, remove protruding roots and fill any holes made by burrowing animals. Carefully check the run’s human-access door, installing springs or other safeguards to ensure that it cannot slam shut on a curious little bird. Protect your young ones even further by installing quarter-inch hardware mesh to a minimum height of two feet from the ground along the entirety of the run’s fencing. The ultra-narrow openings in quarter-inch mesh prevent chicks from poking their heads through the fencing, or from being grabbed by something reaching in.

3. When Can Chicks Go Outside? Offer Gentle Introductions

when-can-chicks-go-outside
Shutterstock

Having spent their entire lives in a cozy brooder, the members of your young flock might stress out when suddenly confronted with so much open space. Ease your birds into their new area slowly, starting with a one-hour test on a sunny afternoon. Bring out their feeder and waterer so they can drink and eat from something familiar. Step away when you sense that your reassuring presence is no longer needed, but stay nearby just in case.

Slowly increase their time in the run until they are happily spending four or five hours outside. At this point, open the coop pop door, allowing the young chickens to discover it on their own. Continue building up the flock’s time in the run and coop, but moving the feeder and waterer to their designated spots inside the coop. You might have to bring a chick or two over and dip their beaks into the water to spread the word that everything’s inside now. Eventually, your little birds will return to the brooder only to sleep, until the day that they all decide to roost on the perch inside their coop.

4. Plan the First Sleepover

pullets chickens integration introduction
normanack/Flickr

You’ll be understandably nervous the first time you transport your chicks back to their brooder, only to find them settled in and snoozing inside their coop. Before you securely close the coop doors and run gate for that first night, take a head count to make sure everyone is inside, then leave your little ones on their own. Set your alarm clock for an early hour; your juveniles might be a little disoriented to wake up in a strange location, and your reassuring voice will help calm them as you open their pop door. They’ll peek out with uncertainty at first but, once they recognize their outdoor play area, they’ll eagerly dash out. Be there again as dusk approaches and they start heading in. Once again, your familiar voice as they head into their new quarters will reinforce that this is exactly what is expected of them.

This article about when can chicks go outside was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Farm & Garden

What is a Master Gardener and How You Become One

A boy and a girl taking care of plants in a garden
Master Gardener

What is a Master Gardener? Many people assume that you must be a skilled gardener to become a Master Gardener, but the truth is that anyone can become one. Master Gardener volunteers are trained volunteers that educate the public on a variety of research based (scientifically studied) horticultural topics.

Novice gardeners, expert gardeners and everyone in between is encouraged to participate. Of course, you must have an interest in growing plants, cultivating gardens and a desire to share your knowledge with the community. Sharing your knowledge with the community is a key component to the program. Becoming a volunteer is a fabulous way to connect with other local people with common interests and a wonderful way to help others learn more about the environment.

Master Gardener programs are run through your county extension offices. Here in Minnesota, I’m a Master Gardener volunteer through Hennepin County and I became one in 2021. The process begins by filling out an application. Next, you’ll be interviewed by 2-3 extension office people, just to make sure that you have a good understanding of what the program entails and that your goals align.

Master Gardener Programs

Once you are accepted into the Master Gardener program, there are 48 hours of core courses that you will take that teach you about a wide variety of research-based topics. Our program offers weekly classes that each cover a different topic. Our core courses are taught by the University of Minnesota’s horticultural experts. Core courses cover topics such as pollinator health, plant biodiversity, clean water, creating resilient landscapes and techniques for growing vegetables.

Once you’ve completed the core courses, you’re required to volunteer for 50 hours during the first year.

Master Gardener Volunteer Activities

Volunteer activities of a Master Gardener include helping with community gardens, assisting with youth programs, offering support for schoolyard gardens, participating in environmental educational programs, partaking at question-and-answer tables at farmers markets, speaking to garden clubs and so much more.

Other volunteer activities include writing for your local paper, participating in garden tours, plant sales and other special events, growing seeds as part of the annual seed trials, installing pollinator gardens at home, plus more! One of my favorite ways to volunteer is to grow a giving garden where the fresh produce grown in my garden is donated to a local food shelf. There are many volunteer opportunities throughout the year, so it’s very simple to meet the volunteer hour requirements.

Staying Active

Each year after the initial one, you will be required to volunteer a certain number of hours as well as meet continuing education hours to keep your Master Gardener status active.

Programs vary by state and county and the information provided throughout the courses will be tailored to your region. No matter how experienced you are, you will be sure to learn more through the educational courses offered and from other participants. I can’t say enough positive things about the program and encourage anyone interested in it to explore your local offerings.

What to Know

There are class fees required to participate, as well as a background check.

There are application deadlines, so if you are interested, I encourage you to look at your county extension office website sooner rather than later.

If you want to learn more but don’t want to volunteer, there is an option to take the core courses without the commitment of volunteering (at least with our program).

This article about what is a master gardener was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry Waterfowl

Snapping Turtles: Common Duck Predators

A large snapping turtle looks up from the murky water.
A large snapping turtle looks up from the murky waters of a Virginia marsh. By Gary Riegel

Snapping turtles are one of a backyard duck’s most feared and deadly predators, living in ponds, streams, and other bodies of water and preying on ducklings and adult ducks. Discover everything you need to know about snapping turtles, including their habitat and hunting behaviors, to help protect your ducks from these underwater killers.

What Are Snapping Turtles?

The snapping turtle group consists of three species: the Common Snapping Turtle, the Alligator Snapping Turtle, and the Suwannee Alligator Snapping Turtle.

The Common Snapping Turtle is not only the most common but also the most aggressive. These slow-moving reptiles are omnivores (meaning they eat plants and meat), feast on ducklings, and inflict severe damage on adult ducks. Snappers are dangerous for waterfowl and can also be aggressive to other livestock, pets, and even humans.

Snapping Turtle Identity

Snapping turtles are easily recognized by their large size, long tails, and scowling faces. Their color varies from tan to black, although most snappers have a dark-colored carapace (the upper shell). The shell is often rough looking instead of the smooth carapace other turtle species sport. Young snappers’ shells usually display three ridges on the lower back that disappear as the turtle matures.

The snapping turtle’s long tail, which often exceeds the length of the carapace, is another way to easily distinguish this species from harmless turtles.

Snappers are large turtles measuring eight to fourteen inches long and weighing between ten and forty-five pounds.

The final way to recognize these reptiles is by their large head, neck, and hooked jaw, which gives the turtle the appearance of frowning.

Habitat

The snapping turtle can often be found swimming in the dark, murky waters just below the surface of a pond. As aquatic reptiles, snappers spend nearly their entire life in the water.

One of the most interesting things about snapping turtles is that they aren’t picky about the water they live in. It can be found in almost any permanent or semi-permanent body of water, including creeks, marshes, bogs, ponds, lakes, streams, and even your inground pool!

Diet

The snapping turtle is an omnivore, consuming both plants and meat. One-third of their diet is comprised of aquatic plants, including water lilies, duckweed, algae, and pondweed. The other two-thirds consists of meat, including insects, spiders, frogs, invertebrates, ducks (ducklings and adults), birds, fish, carrion, and small turtles.

Hunting Behaviors

Snapping turtles hunt beneath the water just below the surface of ponds, streams, and other waterways. As ducks swim through the waters, their dangling feet and legs make them an easy target for snapping turtles to grab.

While ducklings are at the most risk of being killed by a snapper, it is not uncommon for adult ducks to lose feet and legs from a turtle attack. While it is less common, snapping turtles can also kill and eat an adult duck.

Although snapping turtles are more likely to attack ducks on the water, they can also attack on land, especially if they feel threatened.

Is My Pond Safe?

The tricky thing about snapping turtles is that just because you don’t see them doesn’t mean they aren’t residing in a pond or the nearby marsh. These reptiles rarely leave their calling cards, so many duck owners do not realize they have taken up residence until their flock has been attacked.

Snapping turtles are also known for traveling up to ten miles to find a new territory to lay eggs and raise their young.

Protecting Your Duck Flock

Protecting ducks from a snapping turtle attack is easy if you keep them off ponds and out of marshes, creeks, and streams.

Also Read: How to Protect Ducks from Weasels

While ducks need water to stay clean and parasite-free, many duck owners prefer to offer kiddie pools or stock tanks for a safer swimming alternative. (When raising ducklings, always provide the young with a kiddie pool to ensure the safety of the ducklings from a predator attack.)

Pond Safety

If you still desire to provide your flock with a pond, there are some safety tips you can employ to keep your flock safe.

Before allowing ducks out on the pond, always ensure that the pond and the surrounding area are free of snapping turtles.

Keep the perimeter around the pond trimmed to prevent turtle hiding spots. This will make them easier to spot.

Install ¾ inch fencing around the pond’s perimeter to keep baby and adult snapping turtles from accessing the pond and your flock. The fencing should stand two feet high to prevent turtles from attempting to scale the fence.

While the fencing size may seem extreme for adult snappers, baby snapping turtles are only one inch wide and can fit through small gaps. Check fencing frequently for weak spots or holes.

If a snapping turtle is spotted, remove ducks from the area immediately. Snapping turtles can live up to thirty years, so chances are they won’t be moving on anytime soon.

Check with your local fish and wildlife officials before eradicating snapping turtles from your property.

While the snapping turtle is a natural predator of ducks, you can prevent your flock from falling prey with knowledge and careful planning.

Categories
Poultry

Chicken Predator Identification Guide: Predator CSI

chicken-predator-identification
Tambako the Jaguar/Flickr

Chicken predator identification is important so chicken keepers know what has attacked their flock and how to prevent it from happening again by protecting your flock from common predators.

On a personal note…Tara and her young son, Beckett, had started the morning like any other: a short stroll in their backyard to the coop where their four hens lived. As they drew closer, however, Tara sensed something wrong. She told Beckett to wait, then approached the henhouse slowly—only to see a quartet of bodies slumped on the ground, motionless. Quickly, she took a confused Beckett back to the house and, once he was occupied, returned to investigate.

“It was like something made a hole in their chests and sucked the insides out. What did that to my chickens?” she asked me.

I get this question far too often. I hate to hear how birds, sometimes entire flocks, get decimated by nocturnal and diurnal predators. It’s happened to our flocks a handful of times over the years, enough so that I can look at a victim and identify the predator, whether raccoon, dog, weasel, fox, coyote or other.

If you find your flock has been attacked, here is a reference guide to chicken predator identification so that you can take proper precautions in the future.

Missing Heads

If you find your chicken with its head missing, chances are the attacker is a raccoon or a bird of prey, such as a hawk. Birds of prey will swoop down and scare chickens, who sometimes jump up in fear and get their heads caught in the netting or mesh that covers their run. A hawk or other bird of prey will then grab the head with its powerful talons and rip it off. Raccoons will also rip the heads off chickens through fencing, often reaching through at ground level to grab a chicken and pull its head off, leaving its body on the other side of the fence.

Missing Legs and Wings

A chicken whose mortal injury was the loss of a limb, such as a leg or a wing, was the victim of a raccoon. In this case, the raccoon reached through the fencing and caught hold of your bird’s limb instead of its head.

Wounds Near the Vent; Entrails Pulled Out

If your chicken is alive, with bite marks and lacerations around her vent, or if your bird is deceased, with intestines pulled out through her vent, the predator in question belongs to the weasel family. Weasels, minks, ferrets, badgers and martens wrap themselves around their prey’s body and attack the vent area. Members of the weasel family will also bite a bird at the base of the skull to kill it before feeding. (Here’s a video of how to identify predators with a simple scent station.)

This gruesome carnage signifies a common poultry predator, the raccoon. This type of predation pattern often occurs when a raccoon has gotten into a coop at night. It will typically feed on one or two chickens in this manner, then depart, leaving the remains behind.

Missing Birds

If one of your birds seems to have simply disappeared, or if there is nothing but a scattering of feathers in the coop, run or yard, the probable culprit is a fox. Foxes tend to kill or severely injure their prey, then carry them back to their dens, often to feed their kits. Coyotes and bobcats are also known to carry off their prey, as are hawks, owls and other birds of prey.

Missing Chicks

If you are missing one or more chicks, you might have a rat or opossum problem. Both predators grab infant poultry off an unguarded nest and carry them away. Rat snakes also prey on chicks, eating them whole. Another carnivore that targets chicks is the domestic cat, which tends to carry chicks off to play with this lively new toy elsewhere.

Missing or Damaged Eggs

A number of predators prey on poultry eggs. Snakes swallow eggs whole. Rats carry eggs away a short distance, then eat them. A skunk punches a hole into an egg, then sticks its muzzle in to lick out the contents. Raccoons and opossums tend to crush eggs to eat them, leaving behind a mess of mashed shell and oozing interiors. Blue jays and crows are known to occasionally prey on poultry eggs.

Bird Found Dead, No Sign of Injury

If you’ve found one or more of your birds dead with no apparent sign of foul play, your problem might be a dog. Descended from wolves, dogs still have a strong instinct to hunt and might harass and frighten your birds. In their panic to escape, your birds might pile up in a corner, one on top of the other, resulting in the suffocation and death of those on the bottom. A dog might also target a free-ranging bird, playing with it until the bird finally stops moving.

Bird Found Dead With Various Injuries

If the injuries that killed your hen don’t fit any of these patterns, among the predators stalking your flock might be an opossum or a feral cat. Both attack grown birds in a random fashion, doing whatever it takes to bring the prey down. We caught an opossum in the act of tearing the beak off our Araucana cockerel, Eduardo. The opossum did not survive that encounter, and poor Eduardo had to be euthanized. One of our Orpington hens, Mariel, encountered a feral cat in the woods. Fortunately, I found and rescued her, treated the horrible lacerations to her sides and belly, and—three years later—Mariel is still with us.

My friend Tara is still heartbroken about her hens, whom she had raised from baby chicks she purchased several years ago. This incident won’t stop her from raising chickens again, though. She already plans to try again next spring—as long as she and her husband have fully secured their coop and run from further attacks by raccoons and other predators.

This article about chicken predator identification was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Food Recipes

A Refreshing Strawberry Rhubarb Shrub Recipe

strawberry rhubarb shrub
Svetlana Kolpakova/Adobe Stock

A strawberry and rhubarb shrub recipe is a winning combo and a great way to use up some of your rhubarb and fresh strawberries as they ripen. I hope you enjoy this recipe as much as we do!  

Yield: 3 to 4 cups finished shrub 

Ingredients 

  • 2 total cups rhubarb and strawberries, chopped (fresh or frozen). Discard green leaves of the rhubarb, as they are poisonous, and hull the berries. 
  • 2 cups white granulated sugar 
  • Days later: 2 cups organic apple cider vinegar (or other drinking vinegar of choice) 

Directions 

Wash strawberries and rhubarb, removing any bruised or damaged parts.  Prep rhubarb and strawberries, and add them to a clean quart jar. Pour in sugar. Wipe the rim of the jar with a clean dampened towel to remove any sugar or fruit juice, apply the canning jar lid, and tightly screw on the ring.

Shake the jar vigorously to mix the strawberries, rhubarb and sugar together.  

Store the jar at room temperature, out of direct sunlight. Allow the mixture to macerate over a couple days until a thick syrup is made. A few times per day, shake the mixture to speed up the process (or you can use a clean spoon to stir well). 

After two to three days, once the sugar has dissolved and a syrup is made, use a fine mesh strainer to strain out the solids, reserving the syrup in a measuring cup. Use the back of a spoon to push out any excess syrup. Once strained, measure the amount of syrup that was collected and add that same amount of vinegar to the syrup (it will be 1.5 to 2 cups of vinegar), stir well to mix.

Store your strawberry rhubarb shrub in a clean, airtight jar and refrigerate. Enjoy within a few months for best flavor. 

To Serve 

Mix about one shot glass of the shrub mixture with water or carbonated water. Serve over ice. Shrubs also make delicious and unique cocktail mixers. 

Side Notes 

You can also use brown sugar, coconut sugar, maple syrup or other sugar alternative in place of white granulated sugar. 

This method of shrub-making can be applied to any fruits-and-herb combinations.  

Don’t toss the strained-out fruit solids! They are delicious mixed into plain yogurt or oatmeal, or blended into a smoothie. 

This strawberry rhubarb shrub recipe was adapted for Hobby Farms magazine online from WECK Small-Batch Preserving (2018) with permission from Skyhorse Publishing, Inc. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Food Recipes

Rhubarb Cake: Vintage Recipes

rhubarb cake on a plate
rhubarb cake

Rhubarb cake is top of mind in spring as it’s abundant in our gardens and easily found at the farmer’s markets.

Rhubarb is great because it can be used in a variety of different ways. Enjoy it fresh with a little dab of sugar, turn it into jam, bake it into a pie or create a delicious sauce with it, make a rhubarb shrub, plus so many more delicious culinary options.

rhubarb-in-garden
Fresh Rhubarb is growing in the garden. Photo by manuta

While paging through my vintage church/school/other group cookbooks from the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s, I found a large variety of rhubarb recipes. I treasure the old cookbooks because the recipes contained in them are a collection of tried-and-true favorites from members of the various groups – the member’s family favorites.

Here is a great rhubarb cake recipe from one of the cookbooks, published 48 years ago.

Rhubarb Cake

Cake Ingredients

1.5 cups brown sugar
½ cup shortening
1 egg
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. baking soda
2 cups all-purpose flour
1.5 cups rhubarb, finely chopped

Topping Ingredients

1.5 cup white granulated sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. ground cinnamon powder
½ cup nuts of your choice, finely chopped

Directions

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Mix all of the cake ingredients together and pour batter into an 8×8” oven safe baking pan. Mix together all topping ingredients and evenly disperse it over the batter. Bake one hour.

Rhubarb cake recipe submitted by, Irene Keller. Shared form the 1976 copy of Dodge Center St. John Baptist DeLaSalle Catholic Women’s Cookbook. Iowa.

–

Here is a second recipe for rhubarb cake that I found in another 1970s cookbook…

Rhubarb Cake

Cake Batter Ingredients

1.5 cups brown sugar
½ cup butter (recipe originally calls for oleo)
1 egg
2 cups white all purpose flour
½ tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking soda
½ cup buttermilk
1.5 cups rhubarb, chopped
1 tsp. vanilla extract

Topping Ingredients

½ cup white granulated sugar
1 tsp. ground cinnamon powder
1 cup coconut flakes
1 tbsp. butter, room temperature

Directions

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Beat brown sugar, room-temperature butter and egg together well. Sift flour, salt and baking soda into the mixture. Add buttermilk, rhubarb and vanilla and mix together well.

Combine the topping ingredients; mix together the sugar, cinnamon, coconut and butter. Sprinkle the topping over the cake before baking.

Bake for 40 minutes.

This rhubarb cake recipe was submitted by Mrs. Roman Rezac and Mrs. Harry Tuma. Shared from the 75 Years of Good Cooking cookbook, compiled by the Rosary Society Immaculate Conception Parish in Lonsdale, MN.

—

Here is a bonus recipe for Rhubarb Meringue Pie, an alternative to rhubarb cake…

Rhubarb Meringue Pie

Ingredients

Pie crust (raw, either premade or freshly made with recipe of choice)

Filling Ingredients

1 whole egg and 2 egg yolks
1 cup sugar
1 tsp. white all-purpose flour
1.5 cups rhubarb, finely chopped
A pinch of salt
1 tsp. vanilla extract

Meringue Ingredients

2 egg whites, set aside for the meringue after initial baking
6 tbsp. white granulated sugar

Directions

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Mix together the sugar, flour and salt. Beat eggs slightly. Mix in the dry ingredients (sugar, flour, and salt mixture) to the eggs. Then mix in the rhubarb and vanilla extract.

Pour mixture in an unbaked pie shell and bake for 8 minutes at 375°F, then reduce the temperature to 325°F for 25 minutes, or until the center is set.

To make the meringue, beat the egg whites until stiff. Beat in the sugar. Once stiff, cover the entire pie with the meringue and bake 8 minutes longer, or until golden.

This rhubarb pie recipe was submitted by Loucille Howalt. Recipe shared from the Grandma Wore an Apron cookbook, compiled by members and friends of the Crippled Children’s Hospital in Sioux Falls, SD.

This rhubarb cake recipe article was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals

Goat Treats: Feed them Right

A women is sitting with her goats and feeding them.
Goat treat and feed

Goat treats are an essential part of our herd’s diet; however, as delicious as treats may be, they can also be harmful. Learn what healthy treat options will help goats live healthier lives and what treats to avoid in this exclusive guide.

Nutrient-Rich Treats

Goats love a variety of fruits, vegetables, and plants, so it’s relatively easy to find some healthy goat treats. While these treats may not contain the high levels of minerals found in hay or goat feed, they are a safe and fun treat to feed in moderation.

Apples

Apples are a delicious and fun treat to feed your goats. This sweet and tasty fruit is a good source of calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, and zinc. The minerals found in apples aid in many body functions, including milk production, feed-to-milk efficiency, and overall improved herd health.

Wash apples before feeding to ensure they are free of pesticides and insecticides. Always core apples and cut them into slices to avoid choking.

Feeding Directions: Feed no more than one apple per goat daily.

Also Read: DIY Goat Feed

Carrots

Carrots are among the healthiest goat treats to feed your herd. This vegetable powerhouse is loaded with vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients goats need to stay healthy and keep their immune system in tip-top condition.

Carrots are high in vitamins A, C, E, and K and calcium, manganese, magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium. They are also a good source of fiber, which helps feed and generate the growth of good bacteria in the colon.

Feeding Directions: Cut carrots into bite-size pieces to avoid choking. Like all goat treats, carrots should not exceed ten percent of a goat’s diet.

Dandelions

Like many fresh greens, dandelions are an excellent choice for goat treats. This hardy weed is one of the first plants to pop up in the spring and is considered antiparasitic, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer. Dandelions also help improve digestion, boost the immune system, and cleanse the blood.

Also Read: 5 Key Aspects of Feeding Goats

This nutritious plant contains vitamins A, B, C, D, E, and K. It is also a good source of calcium, folate, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, and zinc.

Feeding Directions: Both leaves and blooms are edible. Offer dandelions as a special treat throughout the growing season, or allow goats to eat their fill while in pasture. Dandelions are an excellent treat for weaned baby goats.

Herbs

Goats like fresh greens, so what better way to offer your herd some healthy goat treats than herbs from your garden?  From basil, chervil, dill, fennel, oregano, parsley, sage, and thyme, herbs keep a goat’s digestive system running smoothly. They also help to prevent certain types of cancer and are a natural anti-inflammatory.

Herbs contain many vitamins and minerals, boosting the herd’s digestive tract and immune system.

Feeding Directions: Offer fresh herbs free choice daily to keep your herd healthy and thriving. When feeding dried herbs, follow the general rule of ⅛ teaspoon of dried herb per ten pounds of body weight.

Do not feed sage to lactating does, as it is known to reduce lactation.

Other Fruits and Vegetables

Other safe fruits and vegetables include blueberries, celery, grapes, lettuce, strawberries, squash, and seeded watermelon.

Feeding Directions: Cut fruit and vegetables into bite-size pieces to avoid choking. Vegetables and fruit should not exceed ten percent of a goat’s diet.

Treats to Avoid

Even though goats have a reputation for eating everything, some plants and foods are toxic to goats. Always ensure treats and plants are nontoxic before feeding to your herd.

Oak Tree Leaves

Goats enjoy munching on tree leaves; however, not all are safe for consumption. Green oak leaves from black, red, and yellow oaks contain high tannins. The high tannin levels result in kidney and liver damage when consumed in high quantities.

Be sure to keep your herd’s water source free of oak leaves. The tannins in oak leaves may also leach into the water, damaging the organs and leading to death.

Decorative Plants

Many decorative plants, such as perennials, annuals, and ornamental trees and bushes, are toxic to goats. However, just because they are considered toxic doesn’t mean you must remove them from the yard. Planting ornamental and decorative plants out of a goat’s reach will keep your herd safe and your lawn beautiful.

Toxic Weeds

Many weeds are toxic to goats, including Bur Dock, Cocklebur, Crowfoot  Goatweed,  Horse Nettle, Ivy, Jimsonweed, Johnson Grass, Lambs Quarter,  Lily of the Valley, Milkweed,  Mountain Laurel, Mustard, Philodendron, Poison Hemlock, Red Root, and Rhododendron.

Contact your local extension office for a complete list of toxic plants.

Too Many Goat Treats

Even though they may not be toxic, one of the worst mistakes goat owners can make is overfeeding their herd treats (even healthy treats). Overfeeding treats causes many problems, including goats becoming obese, milk production slowing or ceasing entirely, and an imbalanced diet.

Knowing what treats are safe and which ones to avoid will help goats live healthier lives. So, next time you head to the goat barn, grab some nutritious goat treats for a delicious and fun bonding experience with your favorite goat.

This article about goat treats was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe. 

Categories
Equipment

How to Replace Spark Plugs on a Tractor, ATV or UTV

A person is holding a spark plug of a small tractor
Replacing spark plugs on a small tractor. Photo by J. Keeler Johnson

Knowing how to replace spark plugs on a tractor, ATV, or UTV is a useful skill for any farmer to have. While spark plugs don’t require the regular maintenance schedule of other engine components, from time to time replacing spark plugs is a quick solution to engine troubles.

Fortunately, replacing spark plugs is a relatively straightforward task you can handle yourself, provided you have the right tools.

How spark plugs work

While spark plugs designs can vary, the basic principle is always the same. At the bottom of a spark plug are two electrodes (a central electrode and a side or ground electrode) with a narrow gap between them. During operation of the engine, a spark passes between the two electrodes, causing the fuel and air mixture inside the combustion chamber to ignite. This creates gas pressure that pushes on a piston, and the movement of the piston is converted into the rotational energy of the engine.

There’s a spark plug for each piston in a gasoline engine. Diesel engines don’t have spark plugs since they ignite fuel with compression rather than sparks.

When to replace spark plugs

Spark plugs can go for years without needing attention. But if you’re having trouble starting an engine (even though the tractor battery is strong), or if an engine runs rough once it gets going, the spark plugs may be to blame. Replacing the spark plugs can restore the engine to proper working order and also improve fuel efficiency.

Choosing the right spark plugs

Some small gasoline engines might have only a single piston and spark plug. Larger ones have several. And unsurprisingly, spark plugs come in different sizes. The diameter and the distance between the electrodes are two important considerations.

The material from which the tips of the electrodes are made (copper, platinum, or iridium) can impact performance and longevity. Copper spark plugs have been around for ages, but platinum and iridium spark plugs last longer and may be necessary for high-performance engines. This is especially true of double platinum and double iridium spark plugs, which are designed with platinum or iridium on both electrodes rather than only the central one.

Fortunately, an average farmer doesn’t need to know the nuances of spark plug designs. Simply consult the instruction manual of your machine for a recommendation on the number and type of spark plugs you need.

How to replace spark plugs

The exact steps required to replace spark plugs may vary depending on your engine. Consulting the instruction manual for specifics is a wise idea, but the basics are as follows:

Do not replace spark plugs when the engine is hot; let the machine sit until the engine is fully cooled. Once you’re ready to begin, unhook the battery for safety.

Locate the spark plugs and remove either the spark plugs wires or the ignition coils, depending on whether your engine has spark plug wires or the “coil on plug” (COP) design. Be careful not to damage them, and keep track of which wire/coil goes to which spark plug.

Clean around each spark plug so debris won’t fall into the combustion chamber when you remove the plug. Then, using a socket wrench of the correct size, unscrew and remove each spark plug.

Before installing new spark plugs, you may need to confirm that the spacing between the electrodes—the “gap”—is correct. There are tools available to check the gap and adjust the spacing of the electrodes if needed. A wire feeler gauge or wire gap gauge is what you’re after.

After confirming the gap is correct, carefully thread the spark plugs into place and tighten with a torque wrench to the required torque, which will likely be detailed in your machine’s instruction manual. Once the spark plugs are in place, reinstall the spark plug wires or ignition coils, and don’t forget to hook up the battery.

Congratulations! Now you know how to replace spark plugs on tractors, ATVs, UTVs, and other gas-powered farm machines. And the process is much the same for gas-powered cars, so even a bit of automotive maintenance is now within your reach.

This article about how to replace spark plugs was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe. 

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Equipment

Guide to Tractor Filters: Air, Cabin, Fuel, Oil and More

A person changing the oil filter on a garden tractor.
Changing the oil filter on a garden tractor. Courtesy Daniel Johnson

Tractor filters come in numerous types, shapes, and sizes. You’ll find them across many of the tractor’s most important components, working behind the scenes to filter debris from the air and fluids that feed the tractor’s hard-working engine and related systems.

Regularly maintaining and replacing tractor filters is an important step to maximize your tractor’s performance and lifespan including your tractor battery. If it’s not already, make sure to add this to your tractor maintenance checklist. Not every tractor will have every type of filter, but let’s run through some of the most common filters and highlight the important jobs they serve:

Air filter

The air filter plays a huge role protecting an engine from damage and allowing it to perform at its best. Both gasoline and diesel engines require air to operate, and the air filter blocks dust, dirt, and other contaminants from entering (and damaging) the engine.

Since the air filter is responsible for catching all that grime, it must be regularly cleaned and/or replaced. Let an air filter get too dirty, and engine performance will start to suffer. Signs include reduced fuel efficiency and black smoke in your exhaust.

Filters are typically made from paper, foam, or synthetic materials. Your tractor may have multiple air filter components; consult your tractor’s instruction manual for guidance on cleaning and replacing the air filter(s).

Cabin filter

If your tractor has a cab, you may have a cabin filter that needs replacing. Cabin filters have nothing to do with engine performance; instead, they cleanse the air in your cabin so you can breathe easy.

Tractor cabins fall into four categories based on the level of protection they offer the operator. For farmers out plowing fields or baling hay, a Category 2 cabin that protects against dust might be all you need. But if you’ll be spraying pesticides, applying fertilizers, etc., you may need a Category 3 cabin (which protects against aerosols) or a Category 4 cabin (which blocks vapors too).

The category of cabin you need will obviously impact the type of cabin filter(s) you use. Consult your instruction manual for guidance on how and when to tackle filter replacing.

Fuel filter

Without fuel, an engine won’t run. And without a working fuel filter to cleanse the fuel, the engine won’t run for very long. Fuel contaminants—such as dirt and other small particles—can damage engine components if not filtered out.

As with any filter, the fuel filter must be regularly replaced; over time it will gradually clog, reducing fuel flow to the engine and stressing the fuel pump. Your machine’s manual will advise on how and when to change the fuel filter.

Oil filter

Oil is critical to maintaining the performance and well-being of an engine. Without oil providing lubrication, moving engine parts would quickly wear out. Oil also serves to dissipate heat generated by the engine.

To do its job properly, engine oil must be free of contaminants. Since oil inevitably picks up impurities as it circulates through the engine, the oil filter serves to cleanse the oil.

The oil filter should be changed on a regular schedule. Consult your machine’s instruction manual; you’ll likely find guidance on how often to change the filter. If you’re changing the oil anyway, replacing an oil filter can be a straightforward extra step that doesn’t take much time.

Other filters: hydraulic, DEF, etc.

Depending on your tractor, there may be other filters to replace. Hydraulic filter(s) for the hydraulics. On diesel tractors, a DEF filter for the diesel exhaust fluid. Perhaps a coolant filter if your tractor has a liquid-cooled engine. In each case the filter is serving to remove contaminants from a liquid to protect engine components and keep your tractor running in tip-top shape. Don’t overlook any of these tractor filters, and replace them as recommended by the instruction manual.

This guide to tractor filters was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

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Equipment

Finish Mower or Rough Cut Mower: Do You Need Both?

A Brush hog cutter attached to tractor
Brushhog cutter attached to tractor (Daniel Johnson)

A finish mower is a great tool for keeping a well-maintained lawn looking awesome, but not every farm field is ready for the manicured treatment that it provides. That’s where rough cut mowers come into play, and many farmers need both to keep their land tidy and clear of brush.

So what are the differences between both mowers? Let’s define both types and explore their pros and cons:

What is a finish mower?

A finish mower is designed to cleanly cut well-maintained grassy fields to short heights—under eight inches or so. Your typical riding lawn mower or zero-turn mower can be considered a finish mower, but when people use the term, they’re usually referring to a wide mower that is attached and towed behind or mounted to the three-point hitch of a larger tractor. Some can be more than a dozen feet wide, allowing you to quickly mow large areas.

Finish mower pros and cons

The obvious advantage of a finish mower is the tidy job it does cutting short grass. If you desire picturesque fields of rolling grass—the perfect pastureland—this will help make your dreams reality.

But this precision comes with limitations. Woody plants and overly tall or thick grass can choke or damage the blades of a finish mower. It’s not the right machine for going off the beaten path to clear overgrown fields. That’s the domain of a rough-cut mower.

What is a rough-cut mower?

A rough-cut mower (you might call it a brush hog, bush hog, brush mower, or field mower) isn’t designed to tidily mow short grass. Typically towed behind or mounted to a three-point hitch, a rough cut mower is built to plunge through overgrown fields hacking down tall and thick grass, woody brush, and—in some cases—even sapling trees. Comparatively, a rough-cut mower can seem almost indestructible.

You might think, “Wow, the blades on a rough-cut mower must be sharp to slice through trees.” Actually, the opposite is true. A rough-cut mower features thick, dull blades that bash through obstacles with sheer momentum. They can take a lot of hits while suffering minimal damage.

Rough-cut mower pros and cons

The upsides of a rough-cut mower are obvious. If a farm field has been abandoned for a few years and is overgrown with tall grass, brush, and small trees, mowing everything down with a rough-cut mower is a great first step to restoring the field to service.

On the downside though, a rough-cut mower lives up to its name and generates a rough cut. It’s not a precision instrument meant for manicuring grassy lawns and pastures. You might say it leaves the job unfinished, and you need to pair both mowers to achieve the best results. But before you tackle a second pass with a finish mower, you’ll need to clean up the worst of the debris the rough-cut mower left behind. Sapling trees don’t just pulverize into dust (though a rough-cut mower gives it a good try), and you don’t want to damage your finish mower by hitting hacked-off stumps or pieces of tree trunks.

If your farm fields are in good condition and you have the time to mow them regularly, a finish mower might be all you need. But for restoring abandoned fields, or for cutting back fields in which the grass has gotten too tall, you’ll want to have a rough cut mower on hand.

This article was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.