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Poultry

What Are the Best Treats for Chickens?

chicken treats chickens poultry
bilanol/Adobe Stock

The best treats for chickens are nutritious and help to provide a great bonding experience between poultry and humans and can even be used for training. 

For example, researchers wanting to better understand chicken behavior and cognition train chickens to peck at a certain object by rewarding them with a treat. Similarly, backyard chicken owners can train chickens to come when called by using treats as a reward. This can be a great way to consistently get backyard flocks to return to the coop at night. 

For success in training, positive reinforcement tactics with treats is key. Just like with dogs, punishment-based training methods are counterproductive. This is especially true for chickens since they have reactive prey instincts. 

Chickens have a behavioral and physiological response when they anticipate getting a treat. This anticipation of consuming a treat is linked to the reward centers within their brain. One experiment (“Effects of haloperidol, a dopamine D2-like receptor antagonist, on reward-related behaviors in laying hens,” Moe et al., Physiology & Behavior, 2011) found that chickens increase their head movement and remain alert, with their head and neck stretched, when they anticipate receiving a treat. 

In fact, the more desirable the treat (for example, if the treat includes mealworms or insects vs. whole wheat) the more they showed head movement, as shown in another experiment (“Effects of signalled reward 482 type, food status and a µ-opioid receptor antagonist on cue-induced anticipatory behaviour in 483 laying hens [Gallus domesticus],” Moe et al., Applied Animal Behavior Science, 2013). 

Read more: Here’s what you should know about poultry waterers and feeders.

Nutrition & Chicken Treats

Even though poultry feed is considered a complete and balanced diet, treats can be a very beneficial supplement. Poultry feeds are formulated based on the protein, fat, carbohydrate, vitamins and minerals of various ingredients.

Chicken treats can provide additional, more flexible nutrition. 

Supplementing your flock with treats gives you the ability to tailor their diet based on what they need most. For example, most chicken-approved kitchen scraps can be a great treat for a flock. However, fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs have limited nutritional value because of their high water content.

These types of fresh food scraps can help keep a flock hydrated. Oftentimes, however, the water content dilutes most of the nutritional benefits. Dried fruits and vegetables are more shelf stable than fresh, meaning they’re more nutrient-dense and provide a higher amount of nutrients, especially vitamins and minerals. 

Insects are highly beneficial and a poultry favorite, which is why they’re often included in treats! Birds are omnivores and love snacking on insects—those they catch in the coop and garden and the dried insects found on store shelves. 

In general, most insects and their larvae are a good source of protein and fat and are highly digestible, although they can have a varying nutrient profile. For example, the macronutrient (carbohydrates, fat) profile and amino acid digestibility between black soldier fly larvae and mealworms are similar. However, black soldier fly larvae tend to have a much higher amount of calcium and a slightly lower level of crude protein than mealworms.

When it comes to insect treats, safety and sustainability should be taken into consideration as well. For example, black soldier fly larvae are more sustainable to grow than other insects. They have a mechanism in which enzymes are secreted to aid in the digestion and absorption of nutrients, allowing their growth cycle to be relatively shorter and more efficient. 

Another factor that affects the safety and nutrient value of these insects is how they are grown and processed. If the feed fed to black soldier fly larvae contains heavy metals, this can lead to heavy metal accumulation in the larvae. Heavy metal poisoning affects the health of our chickens, and these minerals can also potentially contaminate their meat and eggs. 

Salmonella can also be a concern with dried insects. When salmonella was introduced during mealworm production, it resulted in contamination and remained within the larvae through processing, as shown in “Salmonella Typhimurium Level in Mealworms (Tenebrio molitor) after Exposure to Contaminated Substrate,” Jensen et al., Frontiers in Microbiology, 2020). Selecting insects grown in countries that have strict feed and safety regulations, such as the United States, helps to ensure the insects are safe for our birds to eat. 

Read more: Ferment your chicken feed for numerous nutritional benefits!

Best Treats for Chickens: More Than Corn

Offering treats to poultry isn’t a novel idea. However, the variety of options for the type of treat is!

Historically, scratch grain was considered the original poultry treat. In the early 20th century, poultry were primarily fed by scattering grain on the ground, thus the term “scratch grain.” Generally speaking, the term referred to corn, wheat and other grains. 

Now, because of the progress of nutritional science and poultry nutrition, treats have come a long way. Scratch grain is still available as a treat, but the definition has expanded to include a variety of ingredients such as corn, barley, oats, wheat and more.

These ingredients are high in carbohydrates but may not necessarily be balanced in other nutrients, such as protein and minerals. 

The carbs in scratch grain are a good energy source for our birds, especially with colder temperatures. But the inclusion of other ingredients, such as insects, can increase the nutrient value and take the treat from good to great! A balanced blend of ingredients such as black soldier fly larvae, mealworms, dried fruits and vegetables, and/or herbs can offer the most nutrient-dense option and provide value and are considered the best treats for chickens. 

Researchers and backyard poultry keepers agree that chickens enjoy treats, especially highly palatable ones! They’re an effective, positive way to train poultry while also offering a solution for boredom and fun interaction. However, like most things, moderation is key when feeding treats, and treats should not make up more than 10 percent of a flock’s diet. 

To best support your chicken flock, consider supplementing their diet with treats that offer functionality and nutritional value. You may even discover that they prefer different treats during different times of the year or based on what’s happening in their environment. When you find the right treats for your flock, everyone, keepers and birds alike, will be that much happier and healthier.  

Mikayla Baxter, Ph.D., is the Diges­tive Health Products Manager at Perdue Animal Nutrition. This article about the best treats for chickens originally appeared in the May/June 2023 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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Animals

Small Farms: 15 Livestock Breeds to Consider

pygmy goat breed for small farms
John McIntyre/Flickr

Small farms don’t have to be restrictive when you’re thinking of raising livestock including cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, chickens and turkeys, and dogs to guard or herd them. Livestock need room to roam—and root, forage, peck or scratch—but certain breeds, including miniature versions of standard breeds, can thrive on small farms.

1. Pygmy Goat

As its name suggests, this goat breed is petite, with a height of just 16 to 23 inches and weighing in at 60 to 80 pounds (about the size of a large dog). Their animated nature makes Pygmy goats (pictured above) popular pets, but the breed also has a place on the farm. Females produce excellent milk that can be used in cheese-making.

The does are strong breeders. Their first breeding typically occurs between 12 and 18 months, and after a five-month gestation period, does can bear one to four kids every year. Kids are fully weaned around 3 months of age.

Like other breeds, Pygmy goats are social and do best in a herd atmosphere. Pygmy goats are also active and need ample space for exercise.

2. Berkshire Pig

Berkshire pig
WFIU Public Radio/Flickr

The Berkshire can be traced back to England in the 1800s. When the American Berkshire Association was formed in 1875, it was the first swine registry and breeding group in the world. The breed is prized for its meat: With a market weight of 600 pounds, Berkshires produce juicy, flavorful meat that marbles well.

On small farms, Berkshires thrive. It’s a hardy breed, and the pigs are excellent foragers with calm dispositions. The sows produce an abundance of milk so their piglets grow quickly. Their dark coloring—black with white legs, faces and tails—protects against sunburn, making them suitable for the outdoors.

3. Miniature Cattle

dexter cattle - miniature cattle that can be raised on small farms
Anguskirk/Flickr

A herd of large Holsteins might not be right for small farms, but that doesn’t mean cattle are out of the question. Several miniature cattle breeds, such as Dexters, Miniature Jerseys, Miniature Herefords and Lowlines, make up this small-farm option.

The docile, dual-purpose Dexter (producing milk and meat) is among the smallest breeds; an adult bull measures 38 to 44 inches at the shoulder and weighs less than 1,000 pounds. Jerseys, Miniature Herefords and Lowlines, aka Miniature Angus, are smaller versions of their standard-sized counterparts. While the diminutive Jerseys are prized for rich, creamy milk, Herefords and Lowlines produce tender, high-quality beef.

4. Babydoll Southdown Sheep

Babydoll Southdown sheep
Rachael Brugger

The North American Babydoll Southdown Sheep Association refers to the diminutive breed as “impish creatures” because of their dispositions and adorable appearance. The hornless breed originated in England in the 1800s. The ewes, known as excellent mothers that often produce multiples, reach a height of 20 to 23 inches; the rams top out at 24 inches.

Babydoll Southdowns have sought-after fuzzy white, off-white (light tan or gray) or black fleece that can be spun into luxurious fiber. Thanks to its small size and friendly disposition, the breed is often raised as a pet or used in 4-H projects. Babydoll Southdowns are also excellent foragers and are employed to keep grass trimmed and weeds down.

5. Jacob Sheep

Jacob sheep
Andrew Lews/Facebook

These black-and-white spotted sheep were popularized in England in the 1600s and imported to North America three centuries later. Ewes weigh between 80 and 120 pounds, and rams seldom weigh more than 180 pounds. Depending on breeding, some Jacob sheep (both ewes and rams) have two, four or six horns.

Their docile nature makes Jacob sheep ideal for novice farmers. Fiber artists are also big fans of the wool, as the breed produces a medium fleece with unique color combinations of black, white or a blend of both.

It’s difficult to find purebred Jacob sheep because they’re often crossed with other breeds, such as Dorsets, and the spotted offspring are marketed as Jacob sheep.

6. Miniature Cheviot Sheep

A smaller version of the American Cheviot, this sheep measures to just 23 inches; mature ewes weigh between 45 and 85 pounds while rams top out at 100 pounds.

The breed originated in the Cheviot Hills on the border between England and Scotland and is hailed as one of the U.K.’s hardiest breeds, thanks to its ability to thrive in the bleak, windswept landscape. Miniature Cheviots are mild-mannered, active sheep that love to forage and make great mothers, often producing twins.

With its distinctive white, wool-free head, black muzzle and long wool, the Miniature Cheviot is raised for its fleece, which can be white, black, tan or painted (a combination of two or more colors in the fleece).

7. Tamworth Pig

tamworth sow and baby are good to raise on small farms
Amanda Black/Flickr

Named for the village of Tamworth in England, where the breed originated, these dark-red pigs with long snouts are excellent rugged foragers. Tamworth hogs are active and need space to root and wallow. Their red coloring allows them to adapt to various climates because it protects against sunburn.

Once considered a “bacon breed” because of their slow growth and lean, fine-grained meat, Tamworth pigs, which reach a mature weight of between 500 and 600 pounds, are raised for all cuts of meat. The sows are prized for their ability to raise large litters, making excellent mothers and doing a good job of suckling their litters.

8. Nigerian Dwarf Goat

Nigerian Dwarf goat
Trisha M Shears/Wikimedia Commons

The breed originated in West Africa and resembles a petite version of large dairy goat breeds. Nigerian Dwarf goats range from 17 to 20 inches in height and weigh about 75 pounds. Both does and bucks have soft coats with short to medium hair in a number of color combinations, including black, chocolate, Dalmatian (black-and-white spotted), and gold and white.

This gentle breed is often kept as a pet or used in 4-H projects. On small farms, Nigerian Dwarf goats are great milking goats, producing a surprising amount of milk for their size; the milk is higher in butterfat than other dairy-goat breeds.

9. Large Black Pig

Large Black pig
Amanda Slater/Flickr

As its name suggests, the breed is named for its size and coloring. Perhaps the most noticeable characteristics of the Large Black are its lopped ears that flop forward, giving them the appearance of blinders.

Although it was one of the most popular breeds in the U.K. in the 1900s, The Livestock Conservancy now considers the Large Black a threatened breed. Large Blacks are excellent rooters and foragers; in fact, the shift to industrial/indoor production was one of the reasons the breed fell out of favor. For pastured pork, the breed, which reaches adult weights ranging from 650 pounds to 750 pounds, produces high-quality, lean meat.

10. Welsummer Chicken

Welsummer pullet
Oregon Department of Agriculture/Flickr

These petite chickens just weigh less than 6 pounds. Although the hens are vigorous layers, producing deep-reddish-brown and sometimes speckled eggs, the Welsummer breed is a dual-purpose bird that can also be raised for meat.

The breed originated in Holland and has a docile temperament. Welsummers are adaptable to most climates and fare well in cold and heat. They prefer to free-range and needs ample space to scratch and peck for their supper. Hens might go broody.

The medium-brown feathers of the Welsummer are tipped in dark brown and reddish brown with gold tips around the neck.

11. Bourbon Red Turkey

Bourbon Red turkey
Mtshad/Wikimedia Commons

An American breed, the Bourbon Red is a cross between the Bronze, Buff and White Holland breeds and named for Bourbon County, Ky., where it was first developed. The birds have brown to dark-red plumage with white flight and tail features; toms might have feathers edged in black.

Active foragers, Bourbon Reds do well on pasture, making them perfect for small-flock production. They reach a market weight between 14 and 23 pounds, producing heavy breasts and richly flavored meats. The hens lay pale eggs with light brown spots.

Although most Bourbon Reds are good-natured, some breeders select for aggressive traits, so toms will be more driven to mate. Careful breed selection is essential.

12. Orpington Chicken

orpington chickens can be raised on small farms
Elias Gayles/Flickr

Raised for eggs and meat, these docile dual-purpose chickens, developed by William Cook in Orpington, England, in the late 1800s, are still popular today for their rapid growth, weighing between 7 and 8½ pounds at 5 months, and their prolific egg-laying, producing large, light to dark-brown eggs.

The Orpington is popular with small farms and backyard chicken keepers because it’s calm and friendly, making it an ideal egg-laying pet. There are several varieties, including Black, White, Buff and Jubilee, a speckled bird.

13. Narragansett Turkey

Narragansett turkey
Glenn Kraeck/Flickr

Another American breed, the Narragansett was named for Narragansett Bay in Rhode Island, where it was developed from a cross between domestic and wild turkeys. Its color pattern is a striking combination of black, gray and white with a red to bluish-white head.

Although the breed is known for its meat (the birds reach a market weight of 14 to 23 pounds), Narragansett turkeys are also regarded for superior egg production, laying pale brown-spotted eggs. On pasture, the turkeys are excellent foragers with strong maternal instincts.

14. Guardian Dogs for Small Farms

Great Pyrenees livestock guardian dog
Don DeBold/Flickr

Livestock guardian dogs, or LGDs, can play an important role on the farm. The most common LGD breeds include Great Pyrenees, Anatolian Shepherds, Akbash, Kangal and Maremmas. Great Pyrenees are known as gentle giants for their ability to show affection to their families while guarding flocks ranging from chickens to alpacas. In contrast, Anatolian Shepherds have strong protective instincts and incredible endurance and are best-suited to farms with experienced owners. Both Maremma sheepdogs and Akbash look similar to Great Pyrenees thanks to their thick white fur and dark eyes. The Kangal, like the Akbash and Anatolian Shepherd, originated in Turkey. It can be territorial and protective of its flock and its family.

15. Herding Dogs for Small Farms

Border Collie herding dog
Corinne Benavides/Flickr

Nonguardian dogs have an equally important role on a small farm: using their herding instincts to keep livestock in line. Border Collies (pictured) are hailed as the best sheepherding breed in the world, using stalking movements and an intense gaze to guide sheep in a desired direction. Border Collies are comfortable working long hours on rugged terrain but are also affectionate and make great companion dogs. Australian Cattle Dogs, as their name implies, were bred to herd cattle in the outback of Australia. It’s believed that crossing the dingo, Kelpie, Dalmatian and Highland Collie created the breed. The result is a working dog with the strength and stamina to control cattle across large rangelands. Herding dogs have a strong work ethic and make excellent four-legged farmhands. The breeds can also form strong bonds with their owners and are suitable as pets.

This story about livestock breeds for small farms originally appeared in the July/August 2016 issue of Hobby Farms. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

How to Keep Free Range Chickens Safe: Adding Cover

free range chickens in a field
Adobe Stock/FiledIMAGE

How to keep free range chickens safe by adding cover to their runs and pastures is said to be one of the best ways to protect your birds from predators. When chickens feel safe and comfortable, it encourages better health in the birds, less anxious behavior and is even believed by some to help produce a better product. However, does the addition of cover actually add a protective element to raising birds?

Effects on Predation

A 2024 study in Applied Animal Behavior Science discussed the wild ancestors of domestic chickens – noting that they prefer to remain in vegetation whenever possible. This is suspected to be for both food and to avoid predators. The study tested this theory by observing two farms – one with high vegetation and one with low vegetation. Farm Two – with low vegetation – was noted to have lost up to 200 chickens a year as supporting evidence for the idea that low vegetation leads to more predation.

However, there were numerous issues with the study, including the farms having significantly different hen populations, the short period in which the hens were observed and the decision by researchers to exclude parts of Farm Two that may have modified their results. They also did not report the number of birds lost on Farm One. This makes it difficult to form a firm conclusion – based on this study – about the relationship between range coverage and the comfort or safety of birds. Other studies have been equally indeterminate. For example, one older study showed that cover appears to result in lower levels of predation, while a study of chicks in South Africa showed that increased vegetation cover actually increased mortality, with sixty percent of losses coming from aerial or ground predators. Many of these studies involve a single breed of chicken, in a limited area, which may explain the varying results between studies.

Effects on Behavior

What is clear in these studies is that – whether predation is actually reduced or not – the birds involved show greater signs of comfort with their environment. They are more likely to range further and to show signs of relaxation – such as dust bathing, scratching and preening behaviors. These behaviors have been repeatedly shown to be signs of low anxiety, suggesting that having plenty of cover reduces stress for poultry flocks.

In addition, numerous journal articles have been written, showing that flocks that are offered environments with cover – especially natural cover consisting of long grass, trees and other vegetation – are likely to venture further from their coop. Increased ranging has also been shown to decrease foot issues, skin issues and to improve feather scores. Negative behaviors, such as pecking, were reduced, while positive behaviors, such as foraging for bugs and vegetation, were increased.

How To Keep Free Range Chickens Safe: Conclusion

While there have been studies showing improvements in chickens’ behavior when provided with covered runs and free-range environments, research exploring the effectiveness of cover against predation is less available. Studies have had limited scope, have provided varied results and have often only examined one breed of chicken.

It is also important to note that the color of the chickens may make a difference in whether they are more or less visible to predators and no studies could be found using entirely the white birds usually used for commercial meat production.

Still, health improvements in both egg and slow-growing broilers are well-documented, as well as the aforementioned positive behavioral traits observed. Therefore, it may be that offering coverage to domestic flocks may be beneficial, even if there is no improvement in predation.

This article on how to keep free range chickens safe was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

How to Raise Chickens: Tips to Keep Them Off Your Porch

chickens
M. Huston/Flickr

How to raise chickens and keep them off your porch may seem like a funny problem. And while chickens are abundantly amusing and useful livestock to keep on the farm, this is a serious question. Keeping chickens isn’t without its challenges, especially with free-range fowl. Shutting them up at night keeps them safe from predators and in their intended living space, but free-ranging during the daylight hours enables them to engage in natural foraging activities for better nutrition and overall health.

Keeping them from roosting in trees, wandering off or peeking through your windows, however, can be difficult. When your favorite relaxation spot or frequently used machinery becomes their new perch—aka a droppings board in function, if not in name—the rose-colored glasses start to fade. If you’re having to wage war with your free-range birds to keep them under control (and off the porch!), the following tips should help to turn the tide in your favor without imprisoning your prized poultry.

1. Move Your Coop

Jennifer Cook, the small acreage management coordinator from the Colorado State University Extension, says that a free-range flock needs a minimum of 10 square feet per bird in a run or fenced area to forage. If you have 10 chickens, they need at least 100 square feet of space set away from your human-designated areas but will likely roam farther based on their comfort with the space as well as with you.

Placing shelter and feeding stations nearby makes sense from an accessibility standpoint, but this accessibility makes your porch, equipment or anything else that could serve as a nice poultry perch tempting to your fowl flock, too. If proximity when figuring out how to raise chickens seems to be the problem for your situation, consider moving your coop and other shelters farther from the area where your chickens need to be banished.

If proximity isn’t the problem and your hens are just straying too far from the coop, as they tend to do as they become comfortable with an area, Jacquie Jacob, a poultry extension associate at the University of Kentucky, recommends adding a rooster to your flock: “Sometimes a rooster will keep them closer to home,” she says.

2. Limit Your Feeding Areas

If you are comfortable with how to raise chickens and your poultry shelter is already positioned at a suitable distance or moving it didn’t have the desired effect, evaluate the behavior of your flock to determine what might be driving them to set up shop in your zone. “Other than the use of confinement, it is hard to get chickens to not roost where you don’t want,” Jacob says. “Sometimes, they want to be near people, so even if there are better perching areas, they still migrate to where the people are to see if they can get handouts.”

Be sure to keep your handouts restricted to the area where you want them; feeding near your personal areas will only encourage them to seek you out. Food should be associated with a location more so than a person.

If you’re not the attraction when working out how to raise chickens comfortably, look around to see what is. Does a porch railing or tractor steering wheel give them a better vantage point than they already have? Chickens will look for the highest perch for the best view and might even compete for the honor if there isn’t room for more than one, which is why you might find them roosting in trees on your property or, if you lack those, your porch rail. If you find this is the case, raise the stakes—or perch alternative, as it might be. Offer a higher perch near the point of offense to lure the birds away. If your chickens take the bait, gradually move the perch toward their designated area to help ease the transition.

3. Break Your Chickens’ Bad Habits

Even with proper spacing and preferable perch options, habits can be difficult to break. If you have the time and energy to devote to herding the birds off your porch several times per day for days on end, then a traditional shooing method might be enough to curb your birds’ bad habits.

You will need to be home to drive the birds from their perch as quickly as possible each time they come to it. Leaving to go to town or leaving the area to do other tasks will kill the consistency needed to make this method successful. These “shooing” methods include just walking calmly and slowly with arms extended toward the birds—probably the safest and least trust-damaging method to use with your birds—to using spray bottles to spritz the offending fowl.

That said, when working out a schedule with how to raise chickens successfully, most small-scale farmers don’t have that luxury and would prefer to devote their energies to other farm-related chores. In this case, look into automated deterrents, including mechanized decoys and water sprayers. Chickens have a natural aversion to their common predators, which has led some companies to develop animated owls, snakes and hawks that move and make sounds. These frightening tools have limited efficacy as the birds can become accustomed to the mechanized predators, especially if they aren’t moved to various locations and positions on a regular basis. While this is a lesser commitment, it does require some upkeep to garner the most benefit from it.

Another mechanized tool that might work is an automated sprayer often sold for deterring dogs from landscaping. These motion-activated sprayers shoot a small stream of water at the offender. This one would require a thoughtful placement to avoid spraying yourself or other members of your family, but it affords the consistently random deterrent required to keep chickens at bay.

How to Raise Chickens & Protect Surrounding Birds

Be sure the deterrents you choose don’t impact the raptor population in your area. Although birds of prey, such as great horned owls, hawks and eagles, are natural predators of poultry, it’s illegal to use scare tactics or lethal controls on them without a permit.

People who experience raptor damage problems should immediately seek information and/or assistance, according to the Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management, a research website (www.icwdm.org) funded through a grant and maintained by Scott Hygnstrom, the director of the Wisconsin Institute for Wildlife at the University of Wisconsin-Stevens Point:

“Frustration killings occur far too often because landowners are unfamiliar with or unable to control damage with nonlethal control techniques. These killings result in the needless loss of raptors, and they may lead to undesirable legal actions. If trapping or shooting is necessary, permits should be requested and processed as quickly as possible. Always consider the benefits that raptors provide before removing them from an area; their ecological importance, aesthetic value and contributions as indicators of environmental health may outweigh the economic damage they cause.”

Although they vary by state, the legalities that protect these birds are quite strict: All hawks and owls are federally protected under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. These laws strictly prohibit the capture, killing or possession of hawks or owls without special permit. No permits are required to scare depredating migratory birds except for endangered or threatened species, including bald and golden eagles.

In addition, most states have regulations regarding hawks and owls. Some species may be common in one state but may be on a state endangered species list in another. For permit requirements and information, consult your local representatives at the U.S. Department of Agriculture Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service Wildlife Service, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and/or state wildlife department.

The Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management recommends preventing an attack before predation becomes a problem: “Eliminate perch sites within 100 yards of the threatened area by removing large, isolated trees and other perching surfaces. Install utility lines underground and remove telephone poles near poultry-rearing sites. Cap poles with sheet metal cones, Nixalite (bird barriers), cat claws or inverted spikes.”

The same fright devices you use for your chickens might not be legal for birds of prey in your area, so check local regulations. The same pitfalls of these devices often apply to birds of prey: Generally, if birds are hungry, they quickly get used to and ignore frightening devices.

This article about how to raise chickens and keep them away from your personal space was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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Homesteading

Farm Superstitions: 13 for Friday the 13th

horseshoe on barn wood is a part of farm superstition
Adobe Stock/Africa Studio

Farm superstitions abound. If you’re superstitious, you might wish you could spend all of Friday the 13th in bed, covers pulled up to your ears, anxiously awaiting the onset of tomorrow.

Logically, we know that bad (and good) things will happen regardless of whether we cross our fingers. However, Judith Viorst gets at the core of most people’s superstitions with the following quote. “Superstition is foolish, childish, primitive and irrational – but how much does it cost you to knock on wood?”

Why not take the extra precaution?

13 Farming Superstitions

 

A quick online search will confirm that superstitions hold true across the board, but here are 13 superstitions that are well-known in the world of agriculture and farming. Do you swear by any of them?

1. Never start a new job/task on a Friday. (This must go doubly for Friday the 13th.)

2. Never raise 13 livestock of one species/breed.

3. Horseshoes are believed to be lucky and offer protection, but people have different beliefs about how they should be hung. Some say a horseshoe hung with the ends pointing up (U) will catch and store the luck. Others say a horseshoe hanging with the ends pointing down will let good luck flow out and surround your home or barn.

4. “Red sky at night, sailor’s delight. Red sky in morning, sailor’s warning.”

5. Finding a black snake in the garden or field is a harbinger of a bountiful harvest for that crop.

6. Tree leaves blown upside down by the wind foretell rain.

7. Crops sown from north to south will grow better than crops sown east to west.

8. Crops sown during a full moon will thrive, while crops sown during a waning moon will wither.

9. Never plant anything on the 31st of the month.

10. Rain on Easter Sunday will bring rain for the following seven Sundays.

11. Anything planted by a pregnant woman is guaranteed to thrive.

12. Never harvest or plant on the 13th of any month.

13. Once the forsythia blooms, there will be three more snows.

Regardless of whatever your beliefs on superstition are, Friday the 13th is an important day because it asks you to be present and aware of your surroundings more than other day throughout the year. Instead of just steering clear of the number 13 and being extra cautious around mirrors today, why not refocus that hyper-vigilance onto other aspects of your farm? Take this opportunity to analyze your soil with fresh eyes, or to reevaluate your chicken feeder/waterer setup. You’re already paying more attention to potentially bad things today; why not hone in on the good (and improvable) things, too?

In fact, maybe we should just put an end to Friday the 13th’s bad reputation and instead use it as a day to evaluate and improve the things around us on our farms and in our homes and gardens. But, just to be safe, I plan to avoid other things associated with bad luck today—as well as strangers in hockey masks carrying big knives. It can’t hurt, right?

This article about farm superstitions and Friday the 13th was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals

7 Herding Dog Breeds For Your Farm

border collie herding dog breeds
Border Collies. Adobe Stock/Oszkár Dániel Gáti

Herding dog breeds are some of the most popular dogs kept on farms and ranches for their help in moving livestock. Whether you enjoy caring for backyard chickens as a hobby or raising cattle for profit, this feature will help you choose the herding dog to fit your needs.

#1 Border Collie

The Border Collie is the most intelligent and popular of the herding dog breeds. Highly energetic, talkative, playful and full of stamina, Border Collies must have a job to do. They also require several hours of vigorous exercise and mental stimulation daily.

Bred to herd sheep, this high-energy breed herds anything that moves. Border Collies are workaholics exhibiting a stronger herding style than other herding dog breeds. Because they were bred to herd sheep, Border Collies do not tend to nip at the heels of livestock, making this breed ideal for sheep, cattle, pigs, poultry and even ostriches.

Border Collies are natural headers (meaning they work from the front of the livestock). However, some individuals may also work as heelers (herding the livestock from behind).

Border Collies also use their intense eyes to help herd livestock. To do this, they crouch on the ground, staring down the animal. Next, while crouching, they take a few steps toward the livestock before springing into top speed.

#2 Australian Cattle Dog

Also known as “cattle dogs,” the Australian Cattle dog is another popular choice for herding dog breeds. Cattle Dogs are known for their high intelligence, active mind, and ease of training. These dogs require plenty of exercise (both physical and mental stimulation) and companionship, and they must have a job.

Cattle dogs are also affectionate and playful pets with their human family, but they can be aloof and sometimes aggressive with strangers.

Bred to herd cattle, Australian Cattle Dogs are natural heelers, working from behind the livestock, nipping at the livestock’s heels to move them along in the intended direction. Cattle Dogs work silently and do not feel the need to force bark to move the livestock along.

Cattle Dogs are a sturdy breed that can work long hours driving cattle. However, they thrive on human interaction and should not be left without companionship in the fields or pastures all day.

Cattle Dogs are also famous for their superior ability to move cattle and sheep.

#3 Australian Shepherd

Australian Shepherds, often called Aussies, are the only dog in the herding dog breeds that originated in America. Aussies are intelligent, affectionate, hardworking, loyal, protective, adaptive, and active. Even though many current-day Aussies have been bred more for companions than herding, these dogs still possess a strong herding instinct.

Aussies were bred to work large flocks of sheep without causing the flock to fear. In doing this, the breed has developed its unique herding style. While some Aussies use a strong, keen eye to herd like a Border Collie, many others have a loose-eye approach (they don’t make eye contact with the livestock). Aussies are excellent at herding cows, geese, chickens, and other livestock but excel at herding sheep.

Working Aussies should never nip at the livestock, preferring to bark rather than nip at them. If barking doesn’t get a particular sheep moving, the Aussie will hit the sheep with a front paw or shoulder.

#4 Shetland Sheepdog

One of the best herding breeds for hobby farms, the Shetland Sheepdog has grown in popularity since its origin in the early twentieth century. Shelties are lively, alert, loyal, active, playful, highly trainable, gentle and eager to please.

Shelties are agile, alert and intelligent dogs. What sets this breed apart from other herding dogs is that they are neither headers nor heelers. Instead, Shelties prefer to work in a “gathering” style, working in circles around the livestock, gathering and sending them in the right direction. The breed is known for its gentle herding tendencies.

The breed excels at herding sheep, cows, and ponies and is considered one of the best breeds for herding poultry.

#5 Pembroke Welsh Corgi

Pembroke Welsh Corgis are one of the most popular cattle dogs among herding dog breeds. They are known for their tenacious, friendly personalities and willingness to please their owners.

Corgis were bred to herd cattle, nipping at their heels to make the cows move along. This particular style of herding is called heeling, making Pembrokes a part of the herding group known as heelers. While Corgis can herd anything from cats, chickens, ducks, sheep, or goats, this breed excels best at herding cattle.

From their small stature, robust and stubborn nature, constant barking, and heeler style of herding, Corgis make ideal dogs for cattle ranches and farms.

#6 Rottweiler

Rottweilers are the most overlooked of the herding dog breeds as they are usually considered law enforcement dogs more than herders. But these mighty dogs might surprise you. Good-natured, devoted, obedient and alert, Rottweilers are fearless dogs with a strong desire to protect their home, family, and livestock.

Rottweilers are natural herders and generally do not need to be trained. They have a natural gathering style and a strong desire to control. Rottweilers typically show a loose eye while maintaining a strong force while working with livestock.

One of the most interesting things about Rottweilers’ herding traits is their ability to change their style to suit the livestock they are herding best. Rottweilers excel at herding sheep, goats, and cattle.

#7 Belgian Shepherd

Highly intelligent, alert, sensitive and playful, the Belgian Sheepdog is less prevalent in the U.S. than the other herding dog breeds. However, these dogs are hardworking and versatile herders.

Belgian Shepherds work well with tame livestock, barking at the front of the livestock before going around to herd the livestock from behind. While they excel at herding various livestock species, these dogs tend to nip, so they may not be ideal for herding poultry and sheep.

While not all individuals of these herding dog breeds excel at herding, most herding dogs naturally desire to herd and will become an essential part of your farm or ranch.

This article about herding dog breeds was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

Gardening With Chickens: How Free-Ranging Benefits Soil

free-range chickens soil benefits
hardworkinghippy/Flickr

Gardening with chickens means you’ll be able to park the rototiller in the shed forever if you can employ a small flock of chickens to care for your garden soil. Not only do chickens provide a tremendous nitrogen source to the area, they are champions of turning the soil, eliminating weeds and creating compost in place.

“I would keep chickens even if they didn’t lay eggs because of their working power,” says Justin Rhodes, who shares his homesteading experiences on AbundantPermaculture.com. “I don’t weed I don’t use synthetic fertilizer. I don’t till.” Chickens handle these tasks for him while providing a valuable fertilizer resource, and here’s how you can, too.

Gardening with Chickens Gives Your Crops a Nitrogen Boost

Joseph Heckman, a soil specialist for Rutgers University, became interested in the soil impact of chickens when he started keeping them in 2005. He uses chickens on his lawn, as well as keeps a chicken tractor with 30 birds in his hay fields after the hay is cut for the season.

“One thing to consider when you’re buying chicken feed is you’re buying fertilizer, too,” Heckman says. “You’re actually fertilizing the land when you keep the chickens there.”

Heckman knows this firsthand. As the flock of chickens in his hay field is moved down the field, their path is obvious because you can see a green streak of fertile forage appear in their wake.

“When I made hay this year, I could tell where the chickens were last year,” he notes.

When you think about it, it makes perfect sense to allow the chickens to do what they do best: scratch, dig, peck, eat greens and poop. It’s all a matter of directing this energy. Even though chickens are fantastic little nitrogen-producing factories, if the manure isn’t where you need it, it doesn’t do much good.

Developing a pasture-based system is the best way to build the organic matter content in your soil, Heckman says, and this can be done with a few birds in a suburban backyard or with full-fledged chicken tractors on a small farm. Pasturing chickens in a garden that’s been put to bed for the season allows the birds to clean up any garden debris, turn over the soil and fertilize the area in the process. This in itself is a terrific way to turn the green waste into delicious, and as Heckman points out, far more nutritious eggs.

As with using any fresh manure, which can carry listeria, salmonella or E. coli and potentially contaminate edible crops and cause serious health concerns, allow four months (120 days) between moving the chickens out of the garden area and harvesting. This time frame also minimizes the possibility of burning your plants because of too much nitrogen.

They Till in Organic Matter

free-range chickens soil benefits
Joan/Flickr

Rhodes takes his feathered fertilizer machines to another level by allowing them to till organic matter into the soil. In some areas of his garden, he adds 8 inches of wood chips as mulch and a carbon source, which the chickens turn into the soil as they’re scratching around.

“It’s decomposing on the bottom, and that’s creating compost in place,” Rhodes explains. “In the spring, you could move the chickens out and plant.”

He uses wood chips because that is what is available to him locally, but he says other gardeners use straw or even leaves.

Gardening with Chickens Provides Organic Pest Patrol

By giving the chickens the opportunity to scratch through the soil, they can also ferret out overwintering pests, thereby reducing the number of insect problems you’ll have next year. Squash bugs are a particular treat, but they’ll often find other delicacies bedded down just below the soil level, as well.

After harvesting all of the squash he wants from the patch, Rhodes will turn the chickens loose in the area to bring down the vegetation. The chickens also eat any squash that is left in the garden as the fruits soften throughout the season, and bugs don’t stand a chance.

“That’s my thank you for them,” he says. And in the end, the chickens leave a few seeds that grow into new squash plants the next spring.

They Turn in Cover Crops

If using chickens to clean up the garden or turn in a deep layer of carbon-rich materials wasn’t genius enough, Rhodes incorporates the chickens in the rotation of cover crops. After planting a cover crop, such as buckwheat, clover or rye, let the chickens into the area to turn the cover crops into the ground instead of firing up the rototiller. The birds follow the cover crop, adding nitrogen to the organic matter. Once the vegetation is consumed and the area is tilled, they can be moved elsewhere.

The Deep-Litter Option

For chicken keepers who can’t rotate their chickens’ pasture and need to keep the flock in one place, Rhodes recommends the deep-litter coop method. This way, farmers or gardeners can harvest the compost at the bottom of the litter pile to add to the garden while the chickens stay put.

Whether you’re using chickens as a large mobile unit to fertilize and improve the soil structure of fields and pasture or keeping them in place for as long as you need to prepare your garden bed, chickens are an invaluable resource in any small homestead. From fertilizing, tilling and especially pest patrol, they are happy to do the work.

This post about gardening with chickens was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Equipment Sponsored

Be Prepared: Having a Plan Before a Fence Project Can Spare You Headaches Later

A horned goat and fence with six-inch spacing.

It sounds like the beginning of a joke, but it’s a serious recipe for disaster. Installing the proper fence for your animals is vital not only for keeping them contained, but also for keeping them safe as well.

So it stands to reason that a quality fence is one of the most important investments animal caretakers can make. But, there is more to fencing than simply driving posts in the ground and fastening wire. There are several considerations to think about before a single posthole is dug. What are your plans for that area in the future? Are you corralling goats or horses? Will you institute rotational grazing?

Priority One

“Animal safety is priority one,” says fencing expert Keith Taylor. That means choosing the right type of wire for your animals. “You can’t keep horned sheep or horned goats in a fence with six-inch spacing. They’ll push their heads through it and get their horns caught. They can’t get back out,” Taylor says. “Then they’re stuck.” The fence also has to be tough enough to endure animals running into it without injuring themselves.

With a multitude of options, choosing the right fence for your project can be daunting. Taylor recommends reaching out to Bekaert’s Fence Pro team. “People can actually email questions that they have about each product to meet their animal needs. We answer those questions daily.”

It’s also important not only to consider the animals you’re keeping but to also think about those you don’t want in. For instance, to keep deer out, Taylor says, “You definitely need a high fence to do that. That should be part of your planning: What am I trying to keep in and what am I trying to keep out?”

Look Ahead

“Look at the long term,” Taylor says. “Will you need to cut the pasture in half at some point? Decide where you might want to put gates, but also where you might want future gates. Will you have cattle grazing in one season and horses in another, or will you have them all together?

“Really study the layout of upcoming projects. Not only the project that you’re working on now but upcoming projects that you’re going to look at in the future.”

Map It Out

Once you’ve decided what type of wire you need for your project, it’s time to map it out. You can start with a sketch, or use helpful planning tools like aerial maps of your property which you can get from the US Soil Conservation Service, the US Agricultural Stabilization and Conservation Service, your local agricultural Extension service or private aerial survey firms. When laying out your plan, mark assignments for pastures, hay, crops, buildings, water accessibility and obstacles.

Taylor recommends using Bekaert’s online fencing calculator to map your area, which uses Google Earth and the user’s inputs to develop a list of materials needed. “You can actually go in and drop points around the pasture that you want to fence. It’ll tell you the length of your fencing project, how much wire you need and how many posts you need based on recommendations or personal preferences. You can set all these specifications, and it’ll actually print you out a shopping list.”

That way you can get exactly the right materials in just the right amount.

Know the Rules

When fencing near a highway, it’s important to know the rules for how close fences can be to the road. “It shocks me how different things are from region to region,” Taylor says. “Every county can be different.” Contact your county officials for proper guidelines for your area.

Gear Up

Once your plan is in place, it’s important to make sure you have the right gear for the job. Taylor is adamant about safety, “Always safety first. Be sure to have a good pair of safety glasses and leather or cut-resistant gloves. Even smooth wire can be sharp.”

A good pair of work boots will also be beneficial. “Rolls are heavy. To drop one on your foot will make for a bad day,” Taylor laments.

As for tools, Taylor says, “A good set of cutters or pliers is a must when working with high tensile wire. A stretcher bar and a good set of stretcher bar pullers make life easier when stretching fence and working with woven wire. Gripple accessory products make building fence much easier and faster.”

To learn more about planning in order to get the most out of your fence, head to fencing.bekaert.com.

Categories
Farm & Garden Farm Management

Farm Photoshoots: A Farm Revenue Source

farm photoshoot taking place in sunflower field
Allison Wlcoxson

Farm photoshoots are growing in popularity with photographers and farmers. They are a great way to bring in revenue for a farm and a smart way to utilize agricultural property. Trends with family portraits, proposals and senior pictures outdoors in flower fields and tree farms are skyrocketing and farmers are becoming very creative at using their space for profit. If you are considering offering a section of your land for photoshoots, think through these tips, warnings and examples.

Farmers are finding uncultivated plots of land on their farms and putting in the work to create a natural and charming aesthetic for farm photoshoots. Popular crop options are sunflowers, zinnias, lavender, bluebonnets, brambles and even just tall grasses on open fields or hay bales lined up in a row. Farm-curated props also create a space photographers are seeking. Having an old truck parked in a field, barns, swings tied to trees or a greenhouse that can be decorated for each season are ways to keep photographers coming even when a crop is not in season.

Sunny Acres Farm

farm photoshoot in sunflower field
Sarah Jane Holmes

Sunny Acres Farm in Mounds, Oklahoma has a five-acre property operating year-round bookings. Lacie Leford and her husband cultivated their property in 2020 and stay busy maintaining settings for 90% of photographers in the Tulsa Oklahoma Area. The Ledford’s reputation for upkeep and maintaining their scenic property keep photographers coming back all year. During the summer they have fields of sunflowers, zinnias and cosmos. During the winter they offer truck minis and greenhouse shoots. Photographers also love to shoot their open fields.

Farm Photoshoots & Photographers

Maintaining a good relationship with photographers is the key to successful farm photoshoots on your property. While there are several ways to profit through u-pick bouquets and hosting groups on-site, the Ledfords are committed to keeping the crops at their prime for photographers. “For me, the photographers have grown to respect that we don’t offer those services,” says Lacie. “I don’t want to step on their toes, because they are the ones I want to have a relationship with.” She prioritizes engaging in relationships with the photographers because they will come back several times, whereas u pick farms don’t have nearly the successful client retention. Lacie has also taken feedback from photographers and it informs how she proceeds. This past year she started opening her Greenhouse for Christmas sessions and they were a hit. She also considers where the sun sets when lining up her planting fields, knowing what shots and angles they will want to capture.

Another key to her relationship with photographers is being respectful and timely with communication. Her goal is to always answer within an hour of receiving messages. She communicates with clients and photographers. Being timely to photographers is especially important because as the third party in the conversation, dates and details need to be set for others. “I’m careful not to guarantee anything being in bloom. We say there will be something blooming all of June-September,” says Lacie. Working with nature, she has learned anything can happen.

Most people consider bringing agritourism to their property but immediately feel resistance to hosting people especially when it is the property where they live. The Ledfords were no different. “People don’t think of it as your personal property and that is the hardest part,” explains Lacie. “As we’ve gotten bigger and busier some people just show up without appointments. This can be during our family gatherings. I have to confront people a lot. However, many people don’t get to experience, relax and enjoy being outside in a beautiful space. That is something I keep reminding myself. We are selling an experience and we are here to let people enjoy our space.”

If you are considering preparing your property to host farm photoshoots, create your own terms according to your comfort level. Think through these questions:

  • Where should they park?
  • What are your hours?
  • Do they need gate instructions? Often non agricultural people don’t understand how to close gates behind them.
  • What is off limits? What seems obvious to you, may not to them.
  • Where do you want them to walk?
  • Are they allowed to pick anything?
  • Should they feed animals they see?

red tulips in area for farm photoshoots

Ledford’s best piece of advice for anyone thinking about opening up their property is, “Look at your property and figure out what is unique for you. Don’t copycat others. Do you have rolling hills, creeks or huge trees? Find what is unique to set yourself apart.” Ledford has learned through lots of trial and error staying confident and continuing to learn. She and her husband cultivate five acres of land and do 100% of all upkeep including basic landscape, mowing, weed eating, trimming trees, pulling weeds, direct sowing, etc.

  • Uncluttered Backdrops. Open fields are great. If you have an old barn, declutter items around it. Farm shoots should be simple and not distracting.
  • Good lighting. Know where the sun hits each part of your property so you can guide them on what time of day to shoot where. If trees create too much dappled shade, consider manicuring the branches or cutting it down. Reference this site to better understand the sun timing: https://www.timeanddate.com/sun/
  • Clean and cute setting. The trend for photographers is moving away from props and to more natural lifestyle settings, but a few options like swings, benches, trucks, etc are helpful to offer.
  • Leading lines. Think like a photographer. In order to create depth in a photo, leading lines are necessary. Rows of crops are ideal for dynamic photos.
  • Options this or that. Having a few different scenes or settings will make your space more valuable, especially when nature takes over. If your crop is not thriving like you would expect a more reliable setting on your property will make your farm more valuable.
  • Know your space and be able to communicate it effectively. Is your space woodsy? Natural? Manicured? Elegant? Know the tone and feeling of your property.

As with all aspects of farm businesses, marketing is a must. The better you communicate and educate, the more confident non-agricultural clients will feel working with you. Create social media pages and a website of your offerings and policies. Rather than just saying, “an outdoor field for your needs,” paint a picture of possibilities. “Our farm can capture your clients’ most precious memories. With fields of flowers, rows of natural beauty, a charming old barn, stunning sunset views, and open fields there are so many scenic photography options. Every season brings a new backdrop to your clients.” Once you establish relationships with clients and photographers, their postings and photos will further your marketing efforts.

This article about farm photoshoots was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals

Tan Rabbits: Breed Characteristics

tan rabbit on wood background with leaves
Adobe Stock/Vera Kuttelvaserova

Tan rabbits, despite their name, are not, in fact, tan in color. They have a two-toned pattern with similar markings to Doberman Pincher dogs, with tan on the chin, chest, belly and tail. The rest of the rabbit may be lilac, blue, chocolate or black, depending on the type. Tans are small rabbits, weighing no more than 5.5 pounds and primarily bred by experienced rabbit breeders for show purposes.

Challenges to Raising Tan Rabbits

Personality

Tans, unlike many domestic rabbits, are a high-strung, active breed. They were developed in 1880 from a colony of wild rabbits in England and a Dutch cross, and while their physical appearance has changed over the generations, their ancestry certainly can be seen in their activity levels. If not properly socialized or handled, they have been known to be aggressive – especially the females. They are not “snuggly” rabbits, and require plenty of exercise.

Breeding

Breeding tan rabbits can be a challenge for a number of reasons. Litters are small, often only averaging about four kits. Because the adults are so active, the death of the young through cannibalization or stomping to death is common, especially since many rabbit cages don’t provide enough space. They also are known for having young outside the nestbox because of their energetic natures. Socializing does can help them become better mothers, and more experienced does are less likely to have issues.

If breeding for show, be aware that Tans have often been line bred for many generations. This means that the rabbits that have good genetics are great, but the breed will also be prone to harmful mutations. Bucks born with missing testicles or a split penis, or rabbits born with misaligned teeth are not uncommon. Body conformation will also be important at shows, and keeping only those that meet the proper standards will reduce available stock even further.

Care of Tan Rabbits

Tans live about eight to ten years, and aside from the previously-mentioned genetic concerns, are not unusually predisposed to any diseases. However, because of their activity level, they can be prone to injury. Broken tails and nails are especially common, and these or other injuries can be a cause for worry.

Especially for those who intend to show or breed their rabbits, the Tan will need lots of socialization and “hands-on” time. Daily handling, exercise and show-ring training are recommended. Despite being a small rabbit, plan on a larger cage to give them plenty of running room. Tans cannot be trusted outside a caged area, so don’t try them with free-ranging. You might never get them back!

The upside to all this activity is that breeders rarely have to worry about obesity with their Tans. Some even struggle to maintain a healthy weight. A balanced diet of pellets, high-quality hay and fresh water will help them maintain good nutrition. Make certain protein levels are as high as possible with pregnant and nursing does to ensure good health and lower stress levels.

Showing the Tan

Tans have a body type unlike almost any other breed and it is worth twenty-five out of the full hundred points at show. It should have a long, fine-boned body that arches from neck to tail. The chest should be wide and the body should taper from shoulders to hips. The hips and legs should be the width of the body and parallel to one another. Balance is important in the Tan, since if the body is too long or too short the rabbit will lose the lovely arch that makes the Tan so distinctive. The bone structure, likewise, should be fine without being too fine.

The Tan should have a short “flyback” coat that quickly returns to position when stroked backward. The line between the colors on the chest should be clearly defined. The coat texture will change as the rabbit gets older, so knowing the show requirements by category is important. The coat will always be medium fine, however, and should have no colors other than Tan and the color allowed by the rabbit’s type.

Broken tails, nails or other signs of injury are a common reason for disqualification, so rabbits should be checked carefully before showing.

Conclusion

The tan rabbit is an active breed, suggested for experienced rabbit breeders only. Their active nature has made them difficult to breed, high-strung and prone to injuries. Generations of line breeding also make it important to be able to recognize and cull poor genetics early on. However, they can be a stimulating project for the experienced breeder and their elegant appearance makes them a stand out in the show ring.

This article about Tan rabbits was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.