Novelty pumpkins are varieties of pumpkins grown primarily for their unique and interesting appearance rather than for their suitability as food. These pumpkins come in various shapes, sizes, colors, and textures. They are popular for decorative purposes especially during the fall and around Halloween. Common types of novelty pumpkins include white, warty, mini, long-stemmed, and multi-colored. Jung Seed carries a wide variety of pumpkins including many novelty pumpkins. Here are the nine favorite novelty pumpkins you should consider growing this season.
A unique blue pumpkin that is not only beautiful, but delicious too! Deeply ribbed, slightly flattened fruits are somewhat bumpy and hard-shelled with a cool greenish-blue gray color that is certain to add interest to fall displays. They weigh 20 to 24 pounds with sweet, deep-orange flesh that is fantastic for both cooking and baking. They are high-yielding and have intermediate resistance to powdery mildew.
Grow pumpkins as charming as the fairy tale. This 2014 AAS Winner is the first hybrid Cinderella-type pumpkin on the market. The magical reddish orange to pinkish-red colored fruits has a flattened-round shape like the pumpkin carriage from Cinderella fairy tale fame, measuring 15 to 18 inches across and weighing from 20 to 35 pounds each. The vigorous vines are higher yielding than others of this type, bearing 5 to 7 fruits per plant, plus Powdery Mildew tolerance keeps them producing longer. Some lucky gardeners might also find a pale blue pumpkin in their patch. The fruits are not only extremely decorative but are delightfully tasty with a sweet, nutty flavor.
A novel all-white pumpkin. Even the flesh is white! The fruits are nearly round, measuring about 9 inches and weighing 5 to 12 pounds each. They have strong, sturdy handles and their glossy skin makes them excellent for painting and carving into unique jack-o-lanterns. Be sure to harvest when white and store in the dark to maintain the best color. Very productive.
The dark color adds a dramatic dimension to fall displays. The oval 8-to-10-pound fruits have deep ribs and retain their dark green coloring if picked early. Allow them to ripen on the vine and they turn a medium green with orange flecks. The fruits have a long shelf life ensuring they’ll last through the fall season. Vines possess good tolerance to powdery mildew.
The Fireball is a new novelty pumpkin that’s sure to light up your fall display. It has rounded yellow orange, lightly warted fruit displaying green stripes that change to orange as they mature. It has incredibly dark handles. Averaging 9 pounds, these pumpkins will add wonderful variety to pumpkin patches. Vigorous plants have intermediate resistance to powdery mildew and zucchini yellow mosaic virus.
This pumpkin looks like a bloodshot eyeball. There’s a character in every crowd, and it’s no different in the pumpkin patch. These 20-pound round to oblong fruits have a white background accented with midribs and stippled veins of red. The productive vines have good Powdery Mildew tolerance plus some virus tolerance.
The Polar Bear Hybrid Novelty Pumpkin are large, white pumpkins that retain their color in outdoor displays. The fruits typically average 30-65 pounds, but if growing conditions are ideal, they may grow 100 pounds or more. The skin is smooth with slight suturing and won’t turn beige if left in the field too long. Great for carving.
Pretty pink pumpkins are a delight for the eyes and the taste buds. These blocky, 20-to-24-pound fruits are naturally pink on the outside, but have sweet, deep orange flesh on the inside that is fantastic for baking and cooking. The vigorous vines have good tolerance to both powdery and downy mildews.
It’s frightful and yet delightful. Heavily warted pumpkins mature to a bright orange while the warts retain their green coloration for several weeks post-harvest. The hard-shell fruits average 8 to 20 pounds each. With its dark green, firmly attached handle to the novel appearance and you have a pumpkin perfect for kids and roadside stands. Good resistance to Powdery Mildew.
These specialty pumpkins not only add visual interest but also provide an opportunity to experiment with different varieties and expand your gardening skills. Whether you are planning to use them for seasonal displays or culinary creations, you will enjoy the harvest of your very own pumpkin patch filled with extraordinary treasures. If you are looking for additional novelty varieties or traditional pumpkins, be sure to visit Jung Seed Company.
How to clean a chicken coop is something every chicken keeper needs to know to keep a flock healthy and happy. Just as you wash the dishes or dust the living room regularly, routinely cleaning the coop will help prevent common health concerns in your flock.
Knowing some cleaning tips can save you time cleaning your coop. So, grab a pitchfork, a bottle brush and a broom, and let’s start cleaning!
Essential Cleaning Tools
Cleaning the coop for our chickens starts with having the proper tools to do the job quickly and efficiently. To do that, you will need the following:
Pitchfork to fork out soiled bedding
Trash canorwheelbarrow for hauling away old straw, wood shavings, etc.
Broom and dustpan for sweeping out dust and removing cobwebs
Trowel to scoop out nesting box material
Ice scraper to scrape dried manure off the coop floor
Bottle brush to scrub waterers and feeders
Facemask to protect against dust and other particles that can irritate your respiratory tract
Say Goodbye to Deep Litter
The deep litter method has been practiced in backyard flocks for centuries. This method of cleaning the coop consists of removing the bedding soiled by chickens once or twice a year. Instead of removing the manure, chicken keepers place more straw or wood shavings on top.
The manure will break down throughout the year and become a perfect fertilizer, ready for the garden. The old bedding is often placed in the garden to overwinter and break down to provide nutrient-rich soil for next year’s vegetables.
Yes, this may sound ideal for the gardener and flock owner. But the deep litter method can also cause some health issues for the flock.
Chicken manure breaks down into particles of dust. These particles can irritate the respiratory tract, so experts advise wearing a mask over your nose and mouth when handling chicken manure. Not only is this dust harmful to you, but it is also harmful to your chickens. And the dust from manure breakdown can cause respiratory issues in the flock as they scratch through the bedding, causing illness and even death in chickens.
The deep litter method is also known for harboring bacteria, fungi and diseases such as coccidiosis, as well as external and internal parasites. Never use the deep litter method housing hens five years or older, as these aging ladies’ immune systems may no longer be able to handle the bacteria often found in deep litter.
So what should you do instead? Remove all the bedding from the coop floor and nesting boxes weekly to keep your coop clean and chickens healthy. Depending on the size of your enclosure, this will only take a couple of minutes. Trust me, the rewards of a clean coop are worth the time it takes to clean it.
Erin Snyder
Choosing the Correct Bedding
Selecting a bedding can be tricky as there are many options. Chicken keepers have many preferences, from straw and hay to sand or wood shavings.
There are some pros and cons to each bedding type. In my experience, straw has been the best option for my flock, as it is easy to fork out, while other beddings (wood shavings and sand) can be difficult and more time-consuming. Straw is less likely to cause a crop impaction than sand or shavings and will provide hens with hours of fun and foraging as they search for remaining seed heads to snack on.
Hay is generally considered not the best bedding option for backyard flocks. Unlike straw, hay is expensive to purchase, is more likely to grow mold, and carries a greater risk of combustion.
Because of these safety concerns, avoid using hay as bedding whenever possible.
Cleaning the Waterers
Erin Snyder
Cleaning waterers should be a part of your daily routine. Waterers should be emptied, rinsed and refilled with fresh drinking water twice daily.
But I also like to clean mine more thoroughly once a week as my hens enjoy filling them up with dirt as they happily scratch or dust bathe nearby. I use a drop of dish detergent, hot water and a bottle brush (that I only use on my chicken waterers) to clean them quickly and efficiently.
Always be sure to rinse thoroughly before refilling.
Cleaning Feeders
Erin Snyder
How to clean a chicken coop also means cleaning the chicken feeders. This can be a complex process. So, several years ago, I switched from a hanging poultry feeder to rubber feed pans. These feed pans are easy to clean, and you can add or remove the number of pans as your flock dwindles or grows.
Fill feeders twice daily with as much food as your chickens will eat in 20 minutes. Empty remaining food and rinse feeders at least once (preferably twice) daily. Wash feeders weekly in hot, sudsy water and thoroughly rinse before returning them to the flock. Always be sure feeders have dried before refilling them by placing them in a well-ventilated dry area or on a porch in the sun.
Cleaning the Run
Knowing how to clean a chicken coop also means cleaning the run — an oft-overlooked daily task. Check the run and remove spilled food, freshly laid eggs or leftover table scraps to deter predators and rodents from trying to enter the coop or run.
You can also use this time to check for any signs (holes in wire mesh or digging) of predators trying to gain access.
Regularly cleaning the coop, run, waterers and feeders may seem like a lot of work, but it is one of the best ways to keep your chickens healthy and happy.
This article about how to clean a chicken coop was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.
PREMIER SPONSOR: Home Fresh® Poultry Feeds (Kent Nutrition Group)
From Oregon, Michele Thorne talks with show host Lisa Munniksma about support and resources for livestock farmers and meat consumers from The Good Meat Project, the challenges of farming on rented land, the finding value in “failure” and more.
Hear about all the ways that Thorne engages with the food system through what she refers to as “choice, trade and destiny.” She talks all about The Good Meat Project, a nonprofit building pathways toward responsible meat production and consumption for consumers, producers, processors, and food professionals. Learn about how they bridge gaps and break down barriers between all of these stakeholders in the food system and how you as a farmer can plug into the free resources and education the organization offers. Also hear about the Real Burger of Earth Day promotion happening in April each year—bringing together and promoting grassfed-beef producers—and a number of other promotions and learning communities meant to uplift all “good meat” farmers.
Thorne talks about her background in gardening and then keeping livestock, beginning with inheriting ducks and chickens and progressing through just about every type of poultry there is, plus pigs. We cover the ecosystem services animals provide to the land and to the farmer and the value in that over and above the eggs, meat and milk they provide. Thorne talks, too, about how her farming mindset changed after evacuating her property from wildfires with 200 animals in tow. Conversation turns, of course, to land access and the challenges associated with that, as so many farming conversations do.
Thorne gets vulnerable about failure and how we can learn from it — a lesson that endures in farming and elsewhere. She talks about how her experience in farming and her decision to back away from making a living farming helps her in her work with The Good Meat Project now.
Listen to the end to hear about Food Slain, the podcast that Thorne hosted for a few years focusing on food chain issues, from the adulteration of honey to the U.S.’s food-labeling laws. Hear about her thoughts on starting in our backyards to understand and ultimately change the food system for people, animals, the environment and the economy.
Maple rosemary chicken is a standout recipe for any occasion whether it’s a cozy night in or a weekend family dinner. In this recipe, whole chicken is coated in a buttery rub. As it bakes, the butter drenches the meat and the root vegetables below it with a rich glaze that has a touch of maple sweetness.
I usually keep the peel on the carrots and gold potatoes but remove it from sweet potatoes. Feel free to prepare them however you prefer, just ensure they are all cut in similar-size pieces for even cooking.
YIELD: 4
Ingredients
Maple-Rosemary Butter Rub
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 ⁄4 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
Roasted Chicken
3 medium carrots, cut in 1½-inch pieces
2 small sweet potatoes, peeled and cut in 11 ⁄2-inch pieces
2 medium Yukon gold potatoes, cut in 11 ⁄2-inch pieces
15 yellow broiler onions, trimmed and peeled
1 ⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt
pinch of ground black pepper
one 4-pound whole chicken
3 garlic cloves, slightly smashed and peeled
fresh rosemary leaves for garnish, optional
Preparation
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Make the rub by stirring together the softened butter, minced rosemary, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Stir in the maple syrup until a creamy spread forms. Set it aside.
Prepare the chicken and vegetables by scattering the carrots, sweet potatoes, gold potatoes and 12 of the broiler onions on the bottom of a 5-quart Dutch oven or roasting pan. Sprinkle the vegetables with a quarter teaspoon of salt and a pinch of black pepper.
Place the chicken on a plate or flat working surface. Remove any parts that might be inside and trim any excess skin around the opening of the cavity.
Take one clove of smashed garlic and rub it all over the chicken. Get up under the skin over the breasts and over the legs. Allow any fragments of garlic that may break off the clove to remain on the chicken. Put the remaining clove along with the two other cloves and the three remaining boiler onions inside the chicken.
Rub the chicken with the rosemary-maple butter. Then, coat it evenly over the skin and up under the skin.
Tie the legs of the chicken together with kitchen string and fold the end of each wing behind the chicken. Transfer the chicken to the baking pan, setting it over the vegetables.
Bake for about 90 minutes, until a thermometer inserted into the most center part of the chicken reads 165 degrees. After about 60 minutes, if the top of the chicken appears to be browning too rapidly, cut a piece of aluminum foil to cover the chicken. Tent the foil and lay it over the chicken to slow the browning while the meat fully cooks.
Remove the pan from the oven. Sprinkle the fresh rosemary leaves over the vegetables if using. Let the chicken rest for five minutes. Carve to serve with the roasted vegetables.
This maple rosemary chicken recipe article was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Probiotics for chickens are just as important for their immune systems and digestive tracts as probiotics and ferments are for humans. With their ability to help ward off harmful bacteria and viruses and keep our guts healthy and robust, it’s no wonder we want to include probiotics in our everyday diet. Not only does feeding chickens probiotics improve their well-being, but it’ll also improve their flock owner’s health.
ANTIBYDNI/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
What Are Probiotics?
The word probiotic means “for life.” So, it’s only fitting that every living creature needs probiotics to thrive. Probiotics are beneficial bacteria and yeast known as live organisms in your chicken’s body. These organisms line the chicken’s digestive tract and intestines with a protective coating to help prevent infections and disease. Probiotics also help to raise a chicken’s antibodies to further protect against illness and harmful bacteria or yeast. (More on that later.)
While all chickens naturally have some probiotics in their bodies, just like humans, supplementing their daily diet will increase these beneficial microbes, resulting in a healthier, more robust flock.
Through probiotics, chicks receive the beneficial bacteria they need to fight off infection by pathogenic bacteria, such as salmonella. FERNANDO/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Probiotic Pros
So many benefits come from supplementing your chickens’ diet with probiotics that it’s difficult to know where to begin. While we know that probiotics help control salmonella, E. coli and other bacterial infection outbreaks in backyard flocks and commercial chicken farms, you might wonder what else probiotics do. Before diving into different ways probiotics benefit our chickens, let’s look at how probiotics can help combat and avoid salmonella and E. coli outbreaks.
Salmonella and E. coli are members of the bacteria family. Both can be very harmful and cause sickness and, in extreme cases, death. Probiotics work to coat a chicken’s intestinal tract to protect against these and other harmful bacteria and yeast attacking the intestinal walls. Probiotics stimulate the micro-floral and pathogen growth in a hen’s intestines, combating harmful bacteria with good bacteria in the intestinal tract. Research has proven that probiotics can not only lessen a chicken’s chance of contracting salmonella, but they can also heal the gut of a chicken that has a salmonella infection.
While E. coli exists in all poultry manure, it only becomes a problem when a chicken’s (or flock’s) digestive system becomes susceptible to the E. coli. These bacteria can happen because an individual hen is sick, but the infection usually starts because a chicken has an unhealthy gut. The infected hen will poop manure infected with E.-coli, spreading the bacteria to the rest of the flock. E. coli infections are a severe condition that will spread through the flock and could also harm you and your family if you consume the eggs or meat from infected birds.
Probiotics for chickens are the best way to combat an E coli outbreak. In contrast, antibiotics can increase the E.-coli bacteria leading to death. Probiotics eliminate the effects of an E. coli infection by safely removing harmful bacteria from an infected hen’s intestines. Since the antibiotics’ job is to kill all bacteria (good or bad), it makes sense that probiotics would be a more effective treatment for an E.-coli outbreak.
So, how else do probiotics benefit our flocks? Probiotics provide backyard flocks the chance to live healthy, productive lives. Chickens raised on probiotics are more energetic and lay bigger eggs with thicker eggshells. These traits are due to probiotics enhancing the gut’s ability to break down carbohydrates, releasing the necessary energy our chickens need to thrive.
Did you know that 60% of a chicken’s immune system is in their digestive tract? This explains why chicks and chickens raised on probiotics have a stronger immune system capable of fighting infections and diseases, including cancer.
Researchers at PoultryDVM.com have found that probiotics may prevent and, in some instances, help to treat toxins, infections, bacteria and conditions. These include avian intestinal spirochetosis, avian tuberculosis, chronic respiratory disease, coccidiosis, E.-coli, fowl cholera, heatstroke, salmonella, sour crop, yolk sac infection and more.
Probiotics can also have positive side effects on molting chickens and hens recovering from antibiotic treatment and prevent respiratory diseases. However, never use probiotics to treat a sick or injured chicken unless directed otherwise by a licensed veterinarian.
Adding to Your Flock’s Diet
Just as you take supplements daily to keep yourself healthy, your flock needs probiotics daily to thrive. Adding probiotics to your chickens’ daily diet is very easy. There are two ways to incorporate them into your flock’s diet, as probiotics can get mixed into either feed or water.
Feed Probiotics
Pros: Feed probiotics are convenient because you only have to mix in probiotics when opening a food bag. It’s just once and done without the hassle of a precise probioticsto-feed ratio.
Cons: The downside to probiotics mixed into feed is your lack of control over your chickens’ consumption. The probiotic powder often sifts down to the bottom of the bag, leaving your flock with little to no probiotics at the top and potentially consuming too many nutrients when the bag starts running low.
Probiotics can be mixed with fresh water. CCESTEP8/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Water Probiotic
Pros: Water-soluble probiotics are my favorite. Just add the probiotics to a gallon of water, and that’s it. And if all flock members drink, everyone gets equal nutrition daily.
Cons: Many flock owners consider water-soluble probiotics a con due to the need to refill waterers twice daily. However, chickens prefer fresh drinking water, so changing water twice daily with or without probiotics is advised.
Whether you choose to mix probiotics into feed or water is a personal choice. Store all probiotics in a dry area in an airtight container. Avoid placing probiotics in direct sunlight, especially when mixed with water.
ERIN SNYDER
Recommendations
There are many poultry probiotics, so what should you be looking for? Probiotics formatted specifically for chickens should always include lactobacillus. It’s one of the most common and beneficial probiotics in a chicken’s gut. Buy a probiotic that includes lactobacillus in its ingredients.
When purchasing probiotics, read online reviews to see what other poultry keepers recommend. While there can be conflicting reviews, look for probiotics that help sick chickens recover. An easy rule to remember is: If it can help the sick, it can help to prevent the healthy from contracting an illness.
Most importantly, when you find a good probiotic, stick with it. While purchasing the cheapest probiotic currently on the market may be tempting, this practice could cause your flock more harm than good. A chicken’s digestive tract and immune system can be delicate, and the constant switching of probiotics could make individual birds sick.
Avoiding Probiotics
Even when fed a proper diet with probiotics, chickens can still become ill and require medication. Never feed probiotics to a chicken taking medication (especially antibiotics) unless directed by your veterinarian.
Once the chicken has completed a round of antibiotics, provide probiotics for six to eight weeks until she has regained her strength.
Even if probiotics aren’t part of your flock’s diet, always administer to a chicken recovering from any illness or injury unless directed otherwise by a qualified veterinarian.
Probiotics can also just be used during times of stress, such as molting, and after antibiotic treatment. BOB/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
A Healthier You
Today, many backyard flock owners raise their chickens for enjoyment, but the chickens’ original purpose was to provide meat, eggs or both. Therefore, we want to ensure our meat and eggs are safe to consume by our family and customers. You may wonder how supplying your chickens with probiotics will equal a healthier you. The reason is that harmful bacteria and yeast in your chicken’s gut may lead to human salmonella or E. coli infection.
While the common myth believed by most flock owners is that salmonella comes from ingesting an egg that has come in contact with manure, most cases result from the egg yolk getting contaminated in the ovary. Even though many hens carrying salmonella appear healthy on the outside, their gut is still unhealthy. Therefore, experts suggest that all chickens, whether they appear healthy or not, should consume probiotics daily.
Chickens raised without probiotics are 99% more likely to spread salmonella or E. coli to humans through the consumption of their eggs or meat, then chickens raised on probiotics. With probiotics, you and your family can safely consume eggs and meat without worrying about disease, giving you the peace of mind of a healthy family and flock.
While feeding your chickens probiotics doesn’t mean they’ll never get sick, it does help to decrease their chances of becoming ill. So, if you want a healthy, long-lived flock that provides you with quality eggs and meat, consider supplementing their diet with probiotics.
This article about probiotics for chickens was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
A delicious pickled egg recipe is sure to become a family favorite. They make great snacks straight from the jar, but it can be difficult to stop at just one. Sliced in half and placed on a charcuterie platter makes a creative and welcomed treat. Or pluck out the yolks and mash them with mayo, mustard and pickle relish and you’ll have some of the most unique deviled eggs you’ve ever tasted. Pickled eggs can even be added to bloody Mary skewers, alongside other homemade pickled goodies.
Pickled eggs can be dated back to 16th century England, originally used as a method of preserving eggs. They were popular in Germany in the mid-1700s. Since then, they’ve become a popular snack at pubs. Because pickled eggs are salty, they induce thirst, which makes people drink more. You can often find a jar of pickled eggs alongside a jar of pickled pigs feet at small-town bars in Minnesota and Wisconsin.
Below are four yummy pickled egg recipes. Ideally, you should let the eggs pickle for at least one week before eating. You can eat them at any point, but the longer you wait (one to two weeks), the better flavor they’ll have.
Oh Boil!
Before we get to pickling, we must hard boil the eggs. The fresher the egg is, the more difficult it will be to get the peel off smoothly. The reasoning behind this is that the membrane on the inside of the shell is firmly against the shell of fresh eggs. However, as the days pass, the egg shrinks and the space between the eggshell and membrane gets larger, which makes the eggs easier to peel.
It seems like everyone has their tried-and-true method for hard-boiling the perfect egg. My mom swears that adding a glug (technical term) of oil to the water before adding the eggs helps the skin slide right off when peeling. My aunt and grandma swear by steaming eggs. They both have small egg steamers that truly do cook the eggs perfectly, with shells that seem to practically fall off the hard-boiled egg, regardless of the freshness of the egg. However, when steaming, an extra step to pierce a small hole into the end of the egg before cooking is required.
The method that I stand by came printed on a refrigerator magnet I picked up at a conference 15 years ago from the American Egg Board. This is the method I’ve used to hard-boil eggs ever since, and I stand by it. However, I do tend to use my week-old (or older) eggs whenever possible.
Hard Boiling Instructions
Place the eggs in a single layer in a saucepan. Add enough water to cover the eggs by at least 1 inch.
Bring eggs to a boil, and turn off the heat. Cover the pot, and remove it from the burner. Allow the eggs to stand in the hot water for 15 minutes; 12 minutes for medium eggs.
Drain the hot water from the eggs, and run cold water over the eggs. Soak in an ice bath for 15 minutes, or until eggs are completely cooled.
Peel eggs by cracking the shell and peeling from the large end. Hold the egg under running cold water or dip it in a bowl of water to ease off the shell.
Making pickled eggs allows you to experiment with ingredients. If you have a ratio of at least 1:1 vinegar to water (up to 100 percent vinegar), you can add whatever seasonings and herbs you desire.
You can even use different kinds of vinegar, if they’re safe for pickling, such as apple cider vinegar, malt vinegar or wine vinegar. It’s fun to experiment with new flavor combos! But remember to be sure and always start with a clean workspace, sterilized jars and clean lids.
1. Ye Olde English Style Pickled Egg Recipe
Yield: 1 pint
Ingredients
5 to 6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger root, peeled
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 teaspoon whole allspice
Brine
1 cup distilled white vinegar
2 teaspoons canning salt
Preparation
Add the peeled hard-boiled eggs and the remaining ingredients
to a clean pint jar.
Heat the brine ingredients to a simmer, and stir until the salt is dissolved.
Carefully pour the brine over the eggs until they are completely submerged. Wipe the rim of the jar clean with a dampened cloth to remove any spillage.
Place the canning jar lid on the jar, and tightly screw on the ring. Transfer to the refrigerator. Allow to pickle at least one week before tasting.
2. MustardPickled Egg Recipe
Yield: 1 pint
Ingredients
5 to 6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
1 teaspoon ground yellow mustard
1 teaspoon celery seed
1 teaspoon yellow mustard seed
3 whole cloves
2 tablespoons yellow onions, thinly sliced
brine
1/2 cup distilled white vinegar
1/2 cup water
1 tablespoon white granulated sugar
2 teaspoons canning salt
Preparation
Add the peeled hard-boiled eggs and the remaining ingredients to a clean pint jar. Heat the brine ingredients to a simmer, and stir until the salt and sugar is dissolved.
Carefully pour the brine over the eggs until they’re completely submerged. Wipe the rim of the jar clean with a dampened cloth to remove any spillage. Place the canning jar lid on the jar and tightly screw on the ring. Transfer to the refrigerator. Allow to pickle at least one week before tasting.
3. Spicy Pickled Egg Recipe
Yield: 1 pint
Ingredients
5 to 6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
1 jalapeño pepper (or hotter pepper of choice), halved
1 garlic clove, chopped
2 sprigs fresh dill
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
brine
1/2 cup distilled white vinegar
1/2 cup water
2 teaspoons canning salt
Preparation
Add the eggs and the rest of the ingredients to a clean pint jar.
Heat the brine ingredients to a simmer, and stir until the salt is dissolved.
Carefully pour the brine over the eggs until they’re completely submerged. Wipe the rim of the jar clean with a dampened cloth to remove any spillage. Place the canning jar lid on the rim of the jar, and tightly screw on the ring. Transfer to the refrigerator.
4. Quick Pickled Egg Recipe with Brine Leftovers
Each fall, I can 30 pints or more of sliced jalapeños (solely for my personal consumption). I love them and can’t get enough. I put jalapeño slices on nearly everything I eat.
Once a jar is almost empty, I use the brine to make a quick-pickled spicy egg. The leftover jalapeño brine lends the perfect flavor to the eggs. I simply add hard-boiled eggs to the empty jar, make sure the brine totally covers the eggs and allow them to pickle for a week or two. Store-bought pickled peppers work just as well.
This same method can be used with homemade pickled beet brine or store-bought too. After just a few days in the pink beet brine, the egg white turns a vibrant pink color. If they’re pickled long enough, even the yolks will turn pink. Beet-brine pickled eggs take on a strong beet flavor after pickling.
Pickled Egg Recipe Additional Tips
Be sure to thoroughly clean your space and supplies before pickling (as when doing any food preservation). Sterilize jars, and wash lids.
The longer the eggs pickle in the vinegar solution, the “rubberier” the texture of the egg white will become. Therefore, eat pickled eggs within three months for best texture.
Small or medium eggs are preferred for pickling, as they fit into the jar better. Pint jars fit five to six eggs while quart jars fit 10 to 12 eggs.
Use regular-mouth canning jars with shoulders (instead of wide-mouth jars) so that the shoulders help keep the eggs and other ingredients pushed down, underneath the brine.
This pickled egg recipe article originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Typically, sweet corn transplants are grown for 14 to 18 days, with the first 12 days or so at about 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and about 60 degrees at night.
MATTHEW/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
How to make a hotbed is useful for growing vegetables, fruits, herbs, flowers and tropical plants. As a bonus learn how to grow sweet corn transplants.
What is a Hotbed?
A hotbed is basically a garden bed heated by decomposing organic material such as manure that allows year-round cultivation. A greenhouse or cold frame is used to trap the heat.
Various crops can be grown in hotbeds, such as vegetables, fruits, herbs, flowers and tropical plants. The technique is useful in extending the growing season, and after some practice, it could even be used to grow tropical plants (if you have a taste for horse-manure pineapples!).
How to Make a Hotbed
A hotbed could be made by building a box around three feet deep and four-to-six-feet-square. Bricks, lumber or straw could be used as building materials. If you don’t have any materials and don’t mind the work, you can make an even better hotbed by digging a pit with the same dimensions.
Obtain some manure, preferably horse manure containing around one-third of straw or other bedding. Place the manure in a pile, compact it and wait three to four days until it gets warm. Turn it over, compact it again and wait another three to four days. Now the manure should be ready to be placed in the hotbed.
Fill the hotbed with manure, and tamp it down so that the depth is one to two feet. Add six to eight inches of topsoil and a south-facing cold frame on top to keep in the heat. Don’t plant immediately as the hotbed will reach high temperatures for several days. You can safely plant when the temperature drops to 85°F or slightly lower.
Using & Maintaining a Hotbed
Maintaining the hotbed will require some skill in opening the frames in mild weather and covering them in very cold nights, but overall, you’ll be surprised at the usefulness of this natural greenhouse. The heat generated from decomposing horse manure could last for several weeks to a few months, depending on various factors, including the size of the bed and the quality of the manure.
Generally, a hotbed will be warm for six to eight weeks. A hotbed makes a wonderful bed for growing pumpkins or other nutrient-loving plants in the summer.
Hotbeds provide bottom heat to transplants, enhancing germination and stimulating root growth. PAUL MAGUIRE//STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Transplanting Sweet Corn
Transplanting sweet corn is an old technique that is sometimes used even today. Because plants get established quickly, farmers get an earlier crop as well as effective weed control without herbicides. Gaps in the field from ungerminated seeds are avoided as well as weed competition which leads to a better crop.
The old-school directions for transplanting corn is to prepare a plot of land much like a garden in fall. Scatter the seeds and cover with some straw to prevent birds from eating them. The following spring, the land where the crop will eventually grow is plowed, and the small corn plants are transplanted. Though this requires a lot of effort, much time is saved from weeding and the resulting crop is earlier and better.
Modern growers use greenhouses and 98-cell trays with potting mix to sow corn seeds several weeks earlier than planting time. The trays are placed on tables so that the corn won’t root in the ground. After around 12 days at greenhouse temperatures of 65 degrees in the day and 60 at night, the transplants are hardened off for two to six days and planted in the prepared soil. The transplants could be also covered with a floating row cover for further protection and season extension. Try several varieties of corn beforehand because varieties can widely differ in vigor.
Though the process of transplanting corn could be costly, there are many benefits. Growers who transplant corn find that there is less weed trouble, an earlier harvest to attract customers and even a higher yield (mostly because of more plants per acre).
This article about how to make a hotbed and grow sweet corn transplants was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
What crops to grow tops many farmer’s and backyard gardener’s lists. Here’s our list of the 24 best crops to grow for fruits, vegetables and herbs. This is not a “sexiest crops of 2024” list. This list is more about reliability than it is about trends. They have been tested in an area that typically sees six frost-free months in zone 6b. From this list, you may find the inspiration you need to get your 2024 garden off to a good start.
Carmen Peppers PHOTOS BY LISA MUNNIKSMA
1. Carmen Peppers
I don’t prefer peppers, but I found one variety that I savor: the sweet Italian Carmen frying peppers. I could have left this vegetable-diary entry at “sweet Italian peppers,” but I’ve tried a few varieties and find Carmens are the most suited for my garden and my taste.
I also prefer the red over the yellow, but that might be about looks more than flavor.
Garden Huckleberries PHOTOS BY LISA MUNNIKSMA
2. Garden Huckleberries
Don’t confuse garden huckleberries — nightshades, growing in clusters on long, upright stalks —with wild huckleberries. Green, unripe garden huckleberries are toxic when ingested in quantity; ripe but raw, they’re mildly acerbic; but cook them down with sugar, and they make an unforgettable ultraviolet-colored freezer jam that tastes like a grape-blueberry combination.
3. Borage
Borage is a great medicinal herb. The blue flowers make yummy cucumber-flavored additions to salads, and bumblebees flock to the blooms. Borage can grow quite tall, and it’ll reseed next season. I appreciate that borage can withstand some frost, keeping color in the garden a little longer.
4. Thornless Blackberries
Friends gave me a few thornless blackberry canes when I moved to this farm, and they weren’t sure of the variety. I wish I knew.
Each year, I harvest gallons of blackberries through the entire month of July from a 15-foot row. Besides pruning them back in the winter, I perform no upkeep on these plants.
Blackberries aren’t my favorite fruit, but the cost-benefit exchange puts them on my top-24 list.
Salt & Pepper Cucumbers PHOTOS BY LISA MUNNIKSMA
5. Salt & Pepper Cucumbers
The yellow-white skin of these pickling cucumbers throws off some people, but they’ve outproduced the rest of the pickling cucumbers I’ve tried growing, so I don’t mind the color.
My garden has an intense Mexican bean beetle population with a taste for cucurbits. These cucumbers get going before the beetles show up and just keep growing while under siege.
6. Mexican Sour Gherkins
I learned about Mexican sour gherkins — aka cucamelons (pictured on this issue’s cover) or mouse melons —years ago at the Key West Community Garden in Key West, Florida. The vines look like delicate cucumber plants. The fruits look like tiny watermelons and taste like tangy cucumbers. They’re crisp and delicious when fresh and pickle well. They’re fun to bring to potlucks, too. I never seem to grow enough of them.
7-9. Three Toms
Every garden needs some tomatoes, but don’t simply stop at the Romas and the beefsteaks. Try planting these this spring.
RED PEARL TOMATOES: Grape tomatoes that ripen early, hold well on the vine, keep well after harvest, and produce until the frost? Red Pearls are a dream. I eat them whole and in salsa all season long, and when I can eat no more, I roast them with salt and olive oil and freeze them to use all winter in quiche and focaccia.
CA CHUA HONG TOMATOES:A Vietnamese heirloom, I’ve read about these tomatoes growing as large as 3 pounds, but I haven’t harvested any giants like that. Among the slicing varieties I grow, these produce first and longest. They’re meaty, so I don’t mind canning them, too. I describe the taste as a typical red tomato. For being indeterminate, the plants are a reasonable size.
LAURA’S POMME D’AMOUR TOMATOES:These plum tomatoes are an example of a variety not commercially available. I’m growing these in honor of Laura, a gardener who was developing this strain of large-thumb-sized, low-seed, high-pulp tomatoes when she passed away in 2009. I started growing these in 2020, and they’re the most productive and longest-producing of any other paste variety I grow.
10. Too Much Zucchini
“Too much” isn’t a variety; it’s a quantity. I have an affinity for summer squash just as I do for winter squash.
I eat zucchini for breakfast, lunch and dinner throughout the growing season, then shred and freeze the extras to add to meals and baked goods the rest of the year. I look for varieties that produce large plants to handle my garden’s cucurbit pest pressure.
11. Xiye Butternut
Maybe it’s too soon for me to declare my love to this squash, but the 45 pounds of massive, thick-skinned, long-storing Xiye (pronounced she-yay) butternuts yielded by a handful of plants last year outcompete every other butternut I’ve tried.
Xiye is under development by a farmer I met last year who’s motivated to find a butternut that thrives in her Tennessee garden. I’m impressed.
Jester Delicata PHOTOS BY LISA MUNNIKSMA
12. Jester Delicata
This is the last squash, I promise. I love delicata for its flavor and use as a vessel to stuff with all manner of grains, other veggies, fruits and meats.
Jester is a hybrid and looks like a cross between delicata and carnival squash. Jester has shorter vines than many winter squash, making it less of a garden bully.
Luffa PHOTOS BY LISA MUNNIKSMA
13. Luffa
My neighbors grow luffa up a trellis on the west side of their home to add shade. I’ve always admired these crops to grow so I grew my own along a fence line last year. It’s one thing to be able to grow your own food but to be able to also grow your own sponges for bathroom and kitchen use feels next level.
14. Burgundy Okra
I appreciate my burgundy okra for its looks and more. They start producing when they’re only a couple of feet tall, releasing their cream-colored hibiscus-like flowers along their stalks and side shoots. I can’t get enough of these flowers!
The leaves are spineless, and the pods are easy to spot for harvest because they’re burgundy instead of green.
15. Don’t Forget the Flowers
In 2022, I realized I had more garden space than I did energy. I decided to let one row go fallow for the season, but instead of planting a cover crop, I planted a wildflower mix. The garden came alive with flowers and pollinators in a way I hadn’t expected.
That row remains in wildflowers, and I’ll never again have a garden that doesn’t involve these beauties.
16. Clary Sage
Clary sage is a newer medicinal addition to my garden crops to grow and one I wonder how I did without. This biennial starts with fuzzy, burdock-looking leaves.
In its second year, it sends up a stalk with tightly packed purple blossoms along it. I was pleased enough to find this, and then I was in awe witnessing flowers opening and stalk further unfurling over the next week. It was simply stunning.
17. Papalo
A nod to my more tropical farming experience, papalo — also called pore herb — is commonly used fresh in Mexico and Central America. It tastes similar to a lime cilantro, and a little goes a long way.
Cilantro is quick to bolt in Kentucky summers, but I can get a similar flavor with this bushy, prolific herb. I’ve heard that it can reseed and become weedy, but not here.
18. Munstead Lavender
Early in my farming journey, I was enchanted by a visit to a lavender farm in Idaho. Munstead lavender has been in my garden ever since. Lavender is medicinal and makes a delightful syrup.
I like that it offers a bit of a challenge as far as crops to grow, requiring a bit of a buffer from the coldest parts of winter and well-drained soil, instead of the heavy clay native to my garden.
19. Kapoor Tulsi
The first herb I ever grew on my own was Kapoor tulsi, also known as holy basil. This plant captivates me, from its herby-licorice-bubblegum scent to its purple flower stalks to the calming tisane resulting from steeping its leaves and flowers in hot water.
Be warned that it’ll reseed to the point of being weedy.
Garlic PHOTOS BY LISA MUNNIKSMA
20. Garlic
I have been known to grow too much garlic. (OK, I consistently grow too much garlic.) But garlic cures well, I use it nearly every day and I appreciate having something green growing in the garden when everything else is brown and gray.
I also like to say garlic scapes are 80% of the reason that I grow garlic. If you’ve ever fermented scapes, you understand. The whole plant pleases me.
21. Swiss Chard
Greens are a staple of my diet. Swiss chard makes the cut for being the most productive through the summer.
While kale and collard plants are looking pale and getting picked on by harlequin bugs, the Swiss chard just keeps putting out large, shiny leaves. In the winter, it slows but rebounds alongside the temperature and daylight.
22. Fat Horses Beans
Dry beans are fun crops to grow, good for soil building and a great kitchen staple.
I was given a few fat horses heirloom dry beans while traveling in Mississippi a few years ago. I planted them in my first-ever garden and now eat these pintolike beans all the time. Heirloom beans each have a story, and by planting these varieties, you become part of the story, too.
23. Broccoli Rabe
I love broccoli, and honestly, I don’t have the patience for it in my crops to grow. Enter broccoli rabe. I’m looking for the broccoli-floret taste and the broccoli-stem crunch, and broccoli rabe offers this plus more leafy greens to satisfy me.
24. Salad Radishes
The opposite of broccoli’s long growth period, salad radishes’ quick growth makes me feel like I know what I’m doing in the garden. I grow too many radishes, then thin them and eat the thinnings as microgreens. I appreciate that radishes come ready so quickly in the spring, offering something new to eat before other early spring crops are ready.
Maybe like me you find garden planning is full of hope and sometimes overwhelming. Let my garden lessons guide you as you make your own list of 24 crops to grow in 2024.
This article about the 24 best crops to grow in 2024 was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Nasturtiums are a workhorse farm flower that many gardeners plant simply for their beauty and carefree nature. The truth is that nasturtiums serve many important roles in a garden; we shouldn’t just grow them for their good looks alone.
1. Nasturtiums Are Edible
If you haven’t nibbled a nasturtium blossom, it’s time. Their fresh, peppery flavor is a spectacular way to spice up a salad or sandwich, or top a cracker spread with cream cheese. There are many recipes using nasturtiums cooked as well, including my favorite: stuffed with goat cheese, battered and fried. Nasturtiums can also be candied for use on cakes, tarts and other desserts. Oh, and the leaves are edible, too.
You’re probably asking yourself why I would include this in a list of positive nasturtium attributes, but the truth is, if you don’t have a few plants that aphids love in your garden, you won’t have a good population of ladybugs, lacewings and other beneficial insects around either. Nasturtiums can tolerate a ton of aphids feeding on them with little ill effects, so having them around as an aphid nursery means they can also help grow a healthy population of beneficial insects who can keep pest outbreaks on other plants in check.
3. Nasturtiums Make a Great Living Mulch
Trailing nasturtium varieties spread very quickly and cover a lot of ground, making an unwelcoming environment for weeds as they do. The soil in a garden with a cover of nasturtium foliage is shaded, which helps suppress weed seed germination. A living mulch of nasturtiums might also prevent excess moisture loss from the soil due to evaporation, and it helps shade the soil to keep it a bit cooler during hot summer weather.
4. They Provide Food for Pollinators
Nasturtium blossoms are a great nectar source for a wide variety of insects, including long-tongued bumblebees and butterflies. You’ll also find hummingbirds enjoying the nectar the blooms produce. That long spur you find at the back of the flower is where the nectar is found, so only certain creatures can access it, but those that do, are a joy to watch in the garden. Nasturtiums are quite floriferous, too, with most plants in constant bloom from mid-summer through fall’s first frost.
5. Nasturtiums Provide Excellent Toad Habitat
The bug-eating prowess of toads often goes unappreciated by farmers, but the truth is that every morning and every evening, toads patrol the garden, lapping up ants, slugs, beetles and scores of other insects. Even if you seldom spot a toad in your landscape during the day, know that there are still likely to be many around. During warm, sunny weather, toads take shelter, nestling under mulch, in cavities or under a cooling canopy of foliage. And guess what plant’s foliage makes a great canopy for toads? That’s right, nasturtiums. Their ground-hugging, spreading nature, creates moist pockets that are wonderful toad habitat.
As you can see, beyond their beauty and easy nature, there are many excellent reasons to make nasturtiums your new favorite farm flower.
Tire inflators vs. air compressors. What exactly are the differences? Do you need one machine more than the other, or are both handy to have around? Let’s dig into the key differences.
First, there are two main types of powered machines that can be used to inflate tires on cars, tractors, wagons, and more. We’ll refer to them as tire inflators and air compressors, though these names aren’t especially formalized—both machines compress air and can be used to inflate tires.
Tire inflator
For the purpose of this article, a tire inflator is a machine that inflates tires without using a tank to hold compressed air. The lack of this tank makes tire inflators lightweight and portable. Some tire inflators draw power from a regular wall outlet, but others can be powered by the 12-volt (cigarette) outlet in a car. That’s convenient if you want a tire inflator that can ride along in your car and, if necessary, inflate a tire when you’re traveling and away from other sources of power.
But tire inflators have disadvantages. In some cases they’re not as powerful as air compressors with tanks, so they can take longer to inflate tires. And they may be unable to fully inflate tires that require high pounds per square inch (PSI) of pressure. Check the recommended PSI range for the tires you’ll be filling and make sure the maximum PSI rating of your tire inflator is higher.
Air compressor
For the purpose of this article, an air compressor is a machine that holds compressed air in a storage tank. Many models are electric and plug into wall outlets, but gasoline air compressors are also available.
Strength is a primary benefit of an air compressor; they typically have high maximum PSI ratings and can be used to quickly inflate tires to high PSI levels. And while an air compressor (like a tire inflator) is bound to produce some noise while it fills its tank, once the tank is full you can inflate tires in silence using the stored air, at least until the pressure in the tank drops low enough for the air compressor to start up again.
But there’s another big benefit offered by air compressors: they can do more than just inflate tires. Air compressors can be used with a wide variety of air-powered tools, such as nail guns and impact wrenches. You’ll just need to ensure you air compressor is big enough and strong enough to handle these jobs, which comes down to factors like the size of the holding tank (in gallons) and the volume of air (in cubic feet per minute, CFM) the air compressor can supply at any given PSI level.
Conclusions
If all you’re looking for is a machine to inflate tires to moderate PSI levels, opt for a tire inflator and appreciate its portability. But if you have heavy-duty tires to fill, or if you want to use air tools (like a nail gun) on farm construction projects, an air compressor is the way to go. Or best of all, get them both and use whichever is better suited to any given need that arises.
This article about tire inflator or air compressor was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.
