Categories
Equipment

The Best Lawn Mowers for Different Yard Sizes

best-lawn-mowers
Photo by J. Keeler Johnson

The best lawn mowers for your yard depend in large part on the amount of ground you wish to mow. A mower that’s perfect for a quarter-acre lawn might not suit a 10-acre field, and a mower designed to quickly and efficiently handle 10-acre fields might be unnecessarily expensive if you have only two acres to mow.

Let’s explore the best lawn mowers for different yard sizes:

Lawn Mowers for Small Yards

At the small end of the lawn mower spectrum are hand-pushed reel mowers. They’re inexpensive and maneuverable. They don’t require engine maintenance because they don’t have engines. They deliver clean, healthy cuts to grass blades and can mow grass to very short heights if needed. But they can struggle if grass grows more than a few inches tall, so you’ll want to mow frequently. And since they’re small and hand-pushed, a quarter-acre is about the maximum area you’ll want to mow with one.

Stepping up, walk-behind mowers generate cutting power with a small engine. On self-propelled models, the engine also saves you pushing effort by providing drive power for the mower. If you’re ambitious, a self-propelled walk-behind mower might be suitable for yards up to half an acre in size. But the top speed is likely to be a modest 3-4 miles per hour, so mowing large areas can be time-consuming.

If you’d rather ride than push or walk behind your mower, a rear-engine riding mower or a lawn tractor is the next step up. These small riding mowers won’t offer much in the way of abundant power or fancy features, but they’ll reduce the effort you spend mowing an acre or two of land while staying relatively budget-friendly. Plus, you’ll get a wider mowing deck than a small reel mower or self-propelled walk-behind mower, reducing the time you spend mowing. A 42-inch deck on a lawn tractor will cut more than twice as much grass in each pass than an 18-inch walk-behind mower.

Mowers for Large Yards

While you could theoretically mow a five-acre field with a hand-pushed reel mower, it’s not a sensible use of time and effort. Even a small lawn tractor is undersized for such a large job.

If you have more than a couple of acres to mow, you may wish to step up your game with a garden tractor. A garden tractor is a lot like a lawn tractor, but more powerful and versatile. The mowing deck may be wider than on a rear-engine mower or lawn tractor, allowing you to complete your mowing jobs faster. You’ll be able to use other helpful attachments when not mowing, such as a snow blower. And a quality garden tractor may prove more durable and long-lasting than an inexpensive rear-engine mower or lawn tractor, an important consideration since you’ll accumulate a lot of driving hours mowing all those acres of grass.

But once you get to where you’re mowing four acres, five acres, and even more, you should consider investing in a zero-turn mower. These maneuverable machines can spin 360 degrees in place, making them ideal for mowing around obstacles and in neat rows. And the decks on the largest models can be spectacularly large, exceeding 100 inches. But perhaps the biggest advantage of a zero-turn mower is speed: they can mow at higher speeds than garden tractors (in some cases more than 10 miles per hour), reducing the time you spend mowing. Just be aware they’re not suitable for use on overly sloping ground since their steering relies on operating the drive wheels at different speeds, and if you lose traction, you’ll lose steering too.

Another option for multi-acre yards is to use a finish mower with a large tractor, such as a compact utility tractor. This can be a fine approach for mowing large, open fields, but you’ll sacrifice maneuverability compared to a zero-turn mower.

With so many options on the table, the best lawn mower for your yard size is definitely out there somewhere, just waiting to conquer all your mowing needs.

This article about the best lawn mowers for your yard size was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals Poultry

10 Reasons To Keep Backyard Geese

backyard-geese

Backyard geese bring advantages to a flock. There’s a whole lot more to these opinionated birds than just their hissing and honking. If you haven’t considered geese for your homestead before, you may want to think about adding a few goslings to the farm.

1. Weeding

Geese make excellent weeders for certain crops. They are vegetarian birds (unlike ducks and chickens), and they have a never ending appetite for fresh greens. While you wouldn’t want them weeding your standard vegetable garden, they can be perfect picking around berries, bushes or small trees. Vineyards and orchards employ geese as weeders to great effect and, at the same time, save money on expensive, toxic weed killers and time and backache from hand-weeding.

2. Alarm Bells

Geese do have loud, often piercing honks. They will squawk at anything unusual on the farm, and this can be used to your advantage. If you’re worried about protecting your property, a goose can be more effective than a guard dog because they can’t be bribed or distracted. While they cannot fight off every predator, they will scare away many. People, especially, tend to harbor a fear of geese that will make them think twice before approaching your barn uninvited.

3. Eggs

Goose eggs are huge and delicious. Equivalent to about three chicken eggs, a single goose egg can make a great omelet for one or two people. Goose egg’s thick yolks mean that they hold a batter together and give it a deep, rich color.

While geese only lay seasonally during spring and early summer, their eggs will keep you well-fed for those months. They’re perfect for making pasta, and you can barely tell the difference in flavor as long as your geese have a fresh pasture-rich diet.

4. Meat

Not everyone is able to slaughter their geese in the fall, but if you do, you’ll be rewarded with a dark meat carcass that produces valuable fat. A roast goose is a classic Christmas dinner, and it is especially divine if you’re using your own fresh, pasture-raised goose. You can save the rendered fat for cooking later, giving many future meals an extra depth and tasty flavor.

5. Entertainment

The entertainment value of the sassy goose cannot be underrated. They are constantly curious, eager to stick their heads into whatever you are doing. Each goose has its own distinct personality, and few of them have the streak of meanness that is so often associated with the bird. In fact, most geese are docile and prefer to be snuggled by the person who raised them.

Geese are highly intelligent and emotional birds, and they prefer to bond for life. They are also creatures of habit, and watching their daily antics you can take comfort in the rhythm of each bath, grooming session and sunbathing nap.

6. Downy Feathers

If you do slaughter your geese, keep the feathers. Goose down is a valuable stuffing for pillows and comforters, and it is heavenly soft. It takes several geese to stuff a comforter, of course, but a small pillow can be made with just a few birds. You can also keep the longer, elegant flight feathers for decoration or homemade jewelry.

7. Guarding Chickens

Thanks to those loud honks, geese make excellent guardians for smaller fowl, like chickens. They can scare off and even kill many smaller predators that otherwise would bother your hens, and they are known to be great at spotting aerial predators. What a goose cannot fight off they will certainly alert you to, giving you time to defend your flock and your goose before disaster strikes.

8. Loyalty/Bonding

Backyard geese are some of the few birds that imprint if hand-raised. And nothing is more charming than an imprinted gosling. Young goslings will follow their caregiver around like a mother, running frantically should you move out of sight. This dedication persists into adulthood, when full-grown geese will still hurry over to say hello to their person and lavish them with soft, happy coos of affection.

9. Long Lives

A healthy goose who does not succumb to a predator will live to be 15 to 20 years old—and some backyard geese can live to be much older. This is something to consider when you first invest in geese—will you be able to care for them for their entire adult lives?—but it’s also an asset. You know you’ll have their companionship and dedication for their long, full life, and for much of that life you can reap their benefits as egg-layers and guardians.

10. Stately Appearance

It may not be the most important reason to keep backyard geese, but their stately appearance in the farmyard is always reassuring. There is something classic about the figure of a goose in the barnyard, watching over the chickens and resting itself on one leg, the other tucked up amidst its feathers.

If you already keep poultry, adding geese is fairly simple. As you thumb through hatchery catalogs, consider a few goslings to bring entertainment and assets to your farm or homestead.

This article about backyard geese was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Food Recipes

Fermented Fennel Recipe: A Tangy Transformation

fresh-raw-fennel-on-a- rustic-background
Adobe Stock by sabino.parente

Fermented fennel is a transformation of fennel like you’ve never tasted before. Fermented fennel is milder, yet still crunchy and is a great condiment to add to your dinner table spread.

Fennel is a very versatile vegetable that many enjoy growing in their gardens. It can be enjoyed raw or cooked. It adds freshness to soups, salads, stews, pastas, marinades and more. All parts of it can be eaten, the fronds, stalks, and bulb. The fronds have a bit more of a citrus flavor and the stalks and bulb have a mild anise flavor, which if you aren’t familiar with anise, you may know it as the flavor of black licorice.

Fermented Fennel Recipe

Yield: 1 pint

Ingredients

1 lb. fennel, thinly sliced

4 small fennel fronds

10 black whole peppercorns

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 dried bay leaf

2 tsp. freshly squeezed orange juice

2 pieces of orange peel, no pith

Brine: 2 tsp. coarse kosher salt mixed with 1 cup of water.

Instructions

Cut the bulb from the stem and reserve the stem and fronds off to the side. Place the bulb on its side and cut away the root end, discard. Wash the fennel and peel away any blemished or bruised parts. Stand the bulb on the root end and cut it in half. Lay the halves down flat and thinly slice the fennel into ¼-1/8” slices.

Wash fronds and trim off 4 or so to add to the ferment.

Pack the fennel into a clean pint jar, beginning with the garlic and peppercorns, then tuck the bay leaf gently on the side of the jar, so not to crush it and fill the jar with the sliced fennel and fronds. Add in the orange juice and peel.

Mix the brine ingredients together until the salt is dissolved and pour the brine over the produce until everything is completely submerged. Be sure to leave ½-1-inch of headspace from the brine level to the rim of the jar.

If you have a small fermentation jar weight, add it to the jar to keep the ingredients completely submerged under the brine. Remove any small pieces of food that float up to the top of the brine.

Clean the rim of the jar with a damp paper towel to remove any food or brine from the rim. Apply the canning jar lid and tightly screw on the lid.

Fermentation

This is a 10-to-14-day ferment, or longer if needed. Ferment at room temperature, ideally between 60-75°F (15-23°C) and keep out of direct sunlight. Check on the ferment daily to make sure the brine stays over the produce. This is a crucial step in all vegetable fermentation, as any produce above the brine is prone to mold.

If the produce is above the brine, use a clean utensil to push the produce back down below the brine. Burp the jar daily – unscrew the lid briefly and tighten it back on to allow any built-up gas to release (and avoid jar breakage).

After one week, taste-test the fermented fennel to see how it’s coming along. It will likely need to ferment over one week unless the space you are fermenting in is on the warmer side. If the fermented fennel still tastes raw, allow it to ferment a few more days and taste test again until it obtains a tangy, fermented flavor. Transfer to the refrigerator once fermented to your liking, with the brine and all.

The fermented fennel will last nearly indefinitely however the texture and flavor will continue to change. Fermentation does not stop once refrigerated, it just slows way down. This ferment is best enjoyed within 6 months.

Fermented Fennel Side Notes

If you do not have a glass jar weight, you can improvise by using an easily removable small food-grade glass dish that fits inside the jar. Or, if you have a smaller glass canning jar that can fit into the mouth of the jar you are fermenting with, you can use that to keep the produce pushed under the brine.

If you are unsure if your water is safe for fermentation, you can boil it and allow it to cool to room temperature before adding in the salt to make your brine.

You may use fine sea salt instead of coarse kosher salt if you prefer. Just adjust the recipe to 1 1/4 tbsp. fine sea salt.

This fermented fennel recipe article was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry Waterfowl

Khaki Campbell: Duck Breed Profile

khaki-campbell-duck

Khaki Campbell ducks are one of the most popular duck breeds kept in backyard flocks. With their exceptional foraging skills and high egg production, Khaki Campbells are among the most self-sufficient duck breeds.

History

The only duck breed to be bred by a woman, the Khaki Campbell was developed by Mrs. Adele Campbell of Gloucestershire, England, who bred a Fawn and White hen to a Rouen Drake. She later bred these ducks to a mallard and then bred the original Cambells back to a Silver Pencilled Indian Runner, creating the first Khaki Campbells.

In 1929, Peter Fish imported the Khaki Campbell to his home in Syracuse, New York. However, the breed did not gain popularity in the U.S. until after the Vietnam War.

Today, the Khaki Campbell is one of the most popular ducks kept for egg production and pest control.

Khaki Campbell Characteristics

The Khaki Campbell is easily recognized by their chocolate brown feathering and upright stature. The head, neck, and bill are relatively long. Although the drake and hen’s plumage is brown, the coloring for each is quite different.

Hen

Khaki Campbell hens sport a green to black bill. Feet and legs vary from dark brown to black. The head, neck, and lower back feathers are described as seal-brown, while the rest of the body is covered in khaki feathers.

The eyes of both the drake and hen are dark brown.

Drake Ducks

Khaki Campbell drakes are beautiful in their bronze and khaki feathers. The drake’s bill ranges from olive green to orange, and the feet and legs are also orange. Sporting bronze heads, necks, lower backs, and tails with soft khaki feathers on their backs and undersides, Khaki Campell drakes are eye-catching beauties.

The breed is considered lightweight, with drakes and hens weighing between four and six pounds.

Production

Khaki Campbell hens are highly prolific duck egg layers, with each hen averaging two hundred and fifty to three hundred and forty white, cream, or green-tinted eggs annually. Females start laying between the ages of five and seven months.

As the hens age, egg numbers decline; however, most hens never cease laying. This characteristic gives them an advantage over other breeds, as many staggered-aged Khaki Campbell flocks produce eggs throughout the year.

Feed hens a well-balanced layer feed to ensure excellent production.

Drakes

While many duck owners don’t consider a drake duck’s productivity, Khaki Campbell drakes are vigorous breeders. If not kept in a well-balanced male-to-female ratio, they may accidentally injure females.

As a general rule of thumb, keeping one drake for every six to eight females is advised.

Lifespan

Khaki Campbells are relatively long-lived, with each duck averaging a respectable eight to ten years.

Health Concerns

Khaki Campbells are relatively healthy and hardy ducks. However, their high production can put them at risk for reproduction issues in drakes and hens.

Cage-Layer Fatigue (Osteoporosis):

Known as milk fever in mammals, cage-layer fatigue is a deficiency or imbalance of calcium, vitamin D3, and phosphorus levels. Symptoms include broken or brittle bones and paralysis. If you suspect your duck may be suffering from cage-layer fatigue, take her to a licensed veterinarian immediately for treatment.

If veterinarian treatment is unavailable, humanely dispatching the hen is the best way to avoid suffering.

Ovarian Cancer

Like many other high-production breeds, Khaki Campbell hens are more likely to develop ovarian cancer than lower-producing breeds. Ovarian cancer risks can be significantly reduced by providing proper nutrition and no artificial light to promote egg production.

Prolapse Phallus

With their high libido, Khaki Cambell drakes are at a higher risk of developing a prolapse phallus. This condition is extremely painful, and treatment should begin immediately. Drakes with a prolapse phallus should be isolated and taken to a vet for immediate treatment.

Khaki Campbell Temperament

The words that Khaki Campell duck owners use to describe this breed are active and nervous. While some individuals can be tamed as pets, they may not be the best choice for those wishing for an all-purpose pet.

Khaki Campbells are enthusiastic ducks who thrive on bug-catching and foraging. Hens and drakes are extremely active, so providing this breed plenty of room to forage is essential. Allowing them to help you in your garden will also make for happy ducks, as Khaki Campbells love nothing more than digging through a garden and looking for harmful bugs and grubs to snack on.

Adaptability

The number one thing that sets Khaki Campbells apart from other breeds is their ability to adapt to all climates. When kept in small flocks with numbers no larger than fifty to two hundred ducks, fed proper nutrition, and allowed ample space to forage, these ducks can thrive in deserts and rainforests. They can handle winter chills as low as 0° F. to summer heat over 100° F.

When it comes to adaptability, you can’t beat the Khaki Campbell.

The Khaki Campbell is a highly adaptable, hardy, and productive breed, making them one of the most well-loved ducks for backyard flocks and family farms. With their beautiful brown plumage and enthusiastic personality, what isn’t there to like about this breed?

This article about Khaki Campbell ducks was written for Chickens magazine online. Click here to subscribe to Chickens magazine.

Categories
Recipes

How to Make Corn Tortillas: A Cinco de Mayo Treat

stack-of-homemade-corn-tortillas

How to make corn tortillas is a great skill to have. The arrival of Cinco de Mayo—the May 5 celebration of Mexico’s quest for democracy and freedom that commemorates the Battle of Puebla in 1862—gives everyone a perfect excuse to try this skill.  It’s so easy and fun that your kids can help you with it.

We adapted the simple recipe below from the Maseca brand of Masa corn flour. These corn tortillas are gluten-free.

Before you start, you’ll need to get your hands on a tortilla press to press out the tortillas. If you want to give it a try without a tortilla press, just roll out the dough on the counter sandwiched between two sheets of plastic to 1/8-inch or thinner. The tortillas should be about 6 inches in diameter.

Recipe: Handmade Corn Tortillas
Photos by John Ivanko

Yield: 16 tortillas

Ingredients

  • 2 cups instant corn masa flour
  • 1/4 tsp. salt
  • 1¼ cup water
  • 1/4 cup canola oil

How to Make Corn Tortillas: Preparation

Step 1: Mix flour, salt and water thoroughly for about 2 minutes to form soft dough. If the dough feels dry, add more water.

mixing-flour-and-water-to-make-corn-tortillas

Step 2: Divide dough into 16 equal-sized, hand-formed balls.

dividing-dough-to-make-corn-tortillas

Step 3: Line tortilla press with two sheets of plastic. The plastic keeps the dough from sticking to the tortilla press. A large Ziplock bag can be cut and separated works perfectly.

pressing-dough-balls-in-a-tortilla-press

Step 4: One at a time, place balls of dough between plastic and press until the tortilla measures about 6 inches in diameter. Lift the tortilla press once, and rotate the flattened dough a quarter turn clockwise, then push down on the press again.

turning-pressed-dough-in-a-tortilla-press

Step 5: Carefully peel the tortilla off the plastic, and place it into a medium-hot skillet or fry pan.

peeling-plastic-from-pressing-tortilla-dough

Step 6: Cook the tortilla for one minute or until lightly browned, then flip to cook the other side.

cooking-pressed-tortilla-dough-in-a-skillet

Step 7: Keep tortillas warm in a covered basket until the other tortillas are completed.

Step 8: Serve tortillas with refried beans, rice, black beans, shredded salad, cut tomatoes, guacamole, sour cream, and stewed pork or chicken. If you decide to make tostadas, let the tortilla cool before frying in oil to make it crispy. Tortillas can be stored in the refrigerator for up to one week.

serving-homemade-corn-tortillas-at-the-dinner-table

This how to make corn tortillas tutorial and recipe were written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

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Farm & Garden Sponsored

Gravel Ain’t Cheap! Maintain it!

Among the many wonderful reasons we love “life out here” are the sounds: happy chickens and goats, birds singing, bees buzzing, and the sound of a pick-up truck driving down a big, beautiful gravel driveway. And it’s reassuring to know that gravel driveways are so cheap that you don’t have to worry about maintaining them. Wait…what?

Nope, gravel driveways aren’t cheap, and maintenance is crucial. Heavy vehicles and weather can leave canyon-deep ruts in your gravel, and weeds will destroy it. Tractors are a must, and we can’t control the weather. But we can control the weeds. Pulling them by hand lets you feel the satisfaction lets you hear that “pop.” But if you don’t get the entire root, you just make it angry. Instead of making them angry, make them dead with Barrier® Year-Long Vegetation Control Concentrate.

Barrier features 5 active ingredients to deliver unbeatable non-selective control that lasts up to a year. It controls listed grasses, vines, brush, and trees down to the roots, and Barrier kills broadleaf weeds fast. It’s ideal for driveways, patios, sidewalks – almost any location where you don’t want any vegetation to grow.

Categories
Food Recipes

Beef Jerky Recipe: A Homemade Dehydrated Treat

beef-jerky-recipe
Photo by Fabio Balbi

A good beef jerky recipe makes a convenient snack to grab on the go. It makes an ideal food to take along fishing, hunting or when going out on a hike. It’s packed with protein and flavor and is lightweight to carry along. One pound of meat dries to just four ounces after dehydration. Because jerky is packed with protein, it’s a great option to fuel the body and is a wonderful treat to bring along when camping.

You can make jerky out of many different types of meat, including fish, chicken, buffalo, and venison. But my favorite jerky is beef jerky.

The process of making beef jerky is fairly simple. It requires thinly sliced beef to marinate for a period of time (this flavors and tenderizes the meat) and then dried either using a food dehydrator or an oven.

It’s important to use a lean cut of beef, ideally top-round or bottom-round beef.

How to Make Beef Jerky

Yield: 1/4 pound of dehydrated beef jerky

Ingredients:

1-pound lean beef, such as top round or bottom round

Beef Jerky Marinade:

1/2 cup Braggs Amino Acids
1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. ground garlic powder
½ tsp. onion powder
¼ tsp. ground black pepper

Before Drying:

Optional: Sprinkle crushed red pepper flakes and garlic powder over marinated meat before dehydrating.

beef-jerky-recipe
A Pile of Hot and Spicy Beef Jerky with Red Pepper Flakes. Photo by pamela_d_mcadams.

Beef Jerky – A Two-Part Recipe

Part 1: Slice and Marinate Beef

In a medium-sized bowl, mix all the marinade ingredients.

Slice meat across the grain, into long, ¼-inch thick strips. Trim away any fat from it, as fat can cause the jerky to spoil faster and also may cause an off taste.

Place the meat into a large gallon-sized resealable bag and pour the marinade ingredients over the meat until it’s completely submerged. Tightly seal up the bag and place it into a bowl to collect any marinade droppings that may leak from the bag.

Allow the meat to marinate 12-24 hours.

Part 2: Heat and Dry Beef Jerky

The USDA recommends beef jerky be heated to 160°F to ensure its safety. Heating to the noted temperature before drying will guarantee that any bacteria present will be destroyed. If your food dehydrator does reach 160°F, you can skip the next step and dehydrate the beef at 160°F.

If you do not have a food dehydrator that reaches 160°F, pour the meat and marinade into a medium-sized saucepan and warm until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 160°F.

Heat oven or food dehydrator to 130 -140°F (or 160°F if you skipped the previous step).

Remove the meat strips from the marinade and allow the excess marinade to drip away.

Place the beef strips on a dehydrator rack or baking sheet. Space them so that none of the pieces are touching. Dab away any marinade droplets with a paper towel. Sprinkle the meat with more garlic powder and/or crushed red pepper flakes, if you so desire.

Cook for a minimum of 6 hours. The jerky is done when you can bend in half and it cracks, not breaks. You don’t want to dry it until it snaps, if it snaps, it is overly dried and will be hard to chew. If it is very rubbery, it’s not completely dried yet – allow it to dry another 30 minutes and check again. The smaller pieces will dry faster and can be removed from the dehydrator/oven while the rest continue to cook.

Store in an airtight container and keep what you aren’t eating refrigerated for longer storage. Enjoy within one month. Or freeze jerky in an airtight container. If frozen properly, ideally vacuum sealed, jerky will last years.

Additional Notes for Making Beef Jerky:

Foodborne illnesses are completely avoidable. Always wash your hands, prep space and cooking utensils before beginning to preserve food.

Do not reuse the marinade.

If you don’t want to slice the meat yourself, ask the butcher at the meat counter to do it for you.

This beef jerky recipe article was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe to Hobby Farms magazine.

Categories
Animals Large Animals

Raising Sheep: How to Treat Wool Loss

sheep
Older ewes can suffer wool loss, especially when carrying twins. Their body diverts nutrients from wool production into supporting the lamb they are carrying.

When raising sheep, wool loss can be a warning sign for shepherds. Also called wool slip or wool break, this usually presents as a thinning of the fiber, resulting in wool falling out, breaking easily and becoming patchy. In most cases, it not only reduces the value of the fleece but also suggests illness in the flock or problems with the animals’ caretaking. However, in a few, select breeds, this is a natural function of the sheep’s physiology. 

Reasons for Wool Break

When raising sheep suffering from wool break, the first thing to check is body weight. Sheep can lose weight due to illness, insufficient feed, or parasites. More indirect causes may include discomfort due to illness, injuries or pregnancy. In underweight sheep, wool growth is reduced to maintain the sheep’s own health. Returning the sheep to a healthy weight will usually cause growth to resume, though how quickly will depend on how long the sheep has been underweight.

Malnutrition is another common cause of wool slip, and while sometimes related to the animals being underweight, this is not always the case. Younger animals may develop so quickly that their bodies use up the nutrients needed for fleece development. Areas where the forage is nutritionally poor may result in malnourished sheep – especially those low on the “pecking order.” Poor forage or fodder quality can also result in animals having enough to eat, but developing wool break due to a nutrient imbalance. When raising sheep – or other grazing animals – it is good practice to have the nutrient contents of hay and pasture tested regularly to make sure they are of high value to the animals.

sheep
Soay sheep are one of the oldest sheep breeds in the world and naturally shed their fiber each spring

Sheep Can Have Mental Health Issues Too

Stress is a major issue for sheep that is often overlooked. Animals under stress – especially pregnant ewes – are prone to losing wool. Shearing in cold temperatures, predator attacks, and other stressful events increase the likelihood of wool break. As with underweight sheep, high stress will result in animals conserving energy by reducing wool production.

Wool loss can also be behavioral, though this is often related to one of the aforementioned categories. Sheep under high stress will sometimes pull the wool off each other as an act of aggression. Parasites or other skin issues will cause sheep to rub themselves against rough surfaces in an attempt to reduce discomfort. 

All Natural

While these are a few, common examples of preventable wool slip, it is important to remember that wool loss can also be natural. Older ewes will produce less wool during pregnancy, especially if having multiple lambs. As with many of the previous examples, her body needs to put its resources into the young, rather than fiber production. Older sheep are likely to produce less wool in general, which is why many large fiber producers cull older animals. 

Some breeds of sheep also shed their wool naturally in the spring. These include some of the oldest heritage breeds, wild sheep or hair sheep – none of which require human intervention to remove their fiber. 

Conclusion

Raising sheep on small farms should involve regular health checks, but wool loss can also be an easily observable sign that extra attention needs to be paid to the flock. It can also mean a loss of productivity for farmers, so by no means should preventative care and examinations be ignored.

This article about raising sheep was written for Hobby Farms online. Click here to subscribe to Hobby Farms print magazine.

Categories
Animals

Raising Rabbits in a Colony: Pros & Cons

rabbits
If introduced young, colony-raised does usually get along just fine

Raising rabbits in colonies is an alternative to cage-breeding that is rising in popularity, especially for those farming rabbits for meat. However, for some breeds and breeders, colony-raising can cause more complications than it solves. Taking a look at the advantages and disadvantages of raising rabbits in this way is important to determine whether it will fit your individual situation.

Shelter

Rabbits are naturally outdoor animals. Access to sunshine lets them form vitamin D, which helps with the healthy absorption of calcium. They have instincts to dig and to run, which colony living can provide. 

In addition, a large run allows waste to remain separate from other activities. Their urine is full of ammonia, and being outside helps to dispel vapors that can otherwise make rabbits sick. 

However, in areas with heavy predator loads, losses can be high without significant protection. Kits and small breed rabbits are at especially high risk. Other animals may also be attracted to water and feed left in the pen, which can lead to disease exposure. Wild rabbits have also been known to be attracted to domestic rabbit pens.

rabbits
Rabbits love to play in the dirt!

Socialization

Rabbits are social animals.  Allowing young rabbits to form relationships in a colony environment can improve their well-being and quality of life.  Colony-raised rabbits can help each other reduce stress through grooming and physical contact. 

Breeding rabbits in colonies also allows does to share parenting duties. Does will often birth close together, and this means fostering between mothers is easier in case of emergency. A good buck will play with his kits, keep them warm, and sometimes can even be observed assisting with bathing. 

However, those breeding show rabbits, these animals do have disagreements. There are rarely serious injuries in these scuffles, but rabbits will pull fur, and bloody noses and cause minor injuries. This can interfere with the quality of the rabbits.

Caretaking

During most seasons, care of colony rabbits is simple. They often deposit manure in one area of the run, and it breaks down quickly, requiring less cleaning. 

They can be free-fed since the increased exercise and other options for stimulation means they eat only what they need. The added physical activity can result in a higher calorie need, however. Exercise also works muscles, so keeping meat rabbits in colonies can result in less tender rabbit meat.

rabbits
Mother and baby finding some shade on a hot day

Weather

Winter is usually the biggest concern for those considering colonies. However, thick fur and warmth in the winter make rabbits successful in cold weather climates. Heat and rain will actually create more difficulties for the animals. 

Rabbits do not sweat, instead regulating their body temperature primarily through their ears. They will stretch out in shallow trenches on hot days but require a source of shade and plenty of water. 

Torrential rains can cause flooding, driving rabbits from their burrows and exposing them to predators and cold. In extreme conditions, litters can drown if burrows are not secured. In winter, rain and cold temperatures can cause rabbits to freeze, whereas snow will not.

This is especially true for fiber-producing rabbit breeds. These animals have been selectively bred to have finer fur than most rabbits. It does not repel water, or maintain warmth, and is prone to matting. Fiber rabbits are not recommended for colonies. 

Conclusion

When considering colonies, it is important to find a balance that works for you, between meeting realistic production goals and the animals’ quality of life. The type of colony you plan to have, how it will stand up to weather and predator loads, and what breed of rabbits you plan to have, are major factors to consider. 

This article about raising rabbits was written for Hobby Farms online. Click here to subscribe to Hobby Farms print magazine.

Categories
Poultry

Top 12 Brown Egg Laying Chickens

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Brown egg-laying chickens are the most common egg layers in backyard flocks. From Buff Orpingtons to Golden Comets and every breed in between, this article will count down the top 12 best brown egg layers in egg production.

#12 Buff Orpington

Buff Orpingtons are sweet, talkative, and will do just about anything for attention. These hens are both cold and heat-hardy, making them ideal for most weather climates. Buff Orpingtons lay an average of 3 – 5 light brown eggs per week (120 – 150 eggs annually) and will lay for three years.

What Orpingtons lack in egg quantity, they make up for with their affectionate, people-loving personalities.

Color Varieties: Black, Blue, Buff, Jubilee, Lavender, and White.

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#11 Welsummer

With their lovely mahogany brown eggs, Welsummers’ eggs are among the most pleasing. Averaging 3 – 5 eggs weekly (120 -150 eggs annually), Welsummers will consistently lay eggs for the first three to five years of their lives and are one of the longest-producing brown egg-laying chickens.

Welsummer hens are docile and friendly, although they are known for feather picking if bored. This breed is intelligent and should have mental stimulation to avoid developing destructive behaviors.

Color Variety: Partridge

 #10 Swedish Flower Hens

The rarest of the brown egg-laying chickens featured in this countdown, these delightful chickens have a lot to offer backyard flock owners. Swedish Flower Hens are a landrace breed, meaning they were not carefully selected for their breed characteristics. Therefore, hens of this breed come in a variety of colors.

Swedish Flower Hens are confident and friendly birds, often seeking out their owners for attention.

Hens are excellent layers, averaging 4 – 6 large tan or tinted eggs per week (200 – 220 eggs annually).

Color Varieties: Various colors, none of which breed true.

#9  Dominique

Dominiques may be best known for their calm, sweet, gentle, people-loving nature, but they are also excellent egg producers. Hens average 4 – 6 large brown eggs weekly. (200 – 220 eggs annually)  Dominique hens lay well for two years before production starts to decline. Even so, Domiques are still known for their longevity of production.

Color Variety: Barred.

#8 Wyandotte

Wyandottes are among the most popular brown egg laying chickens, known for their hardy and robust characteristics. They are respectable egg layers, averaging 4 – 6 medium/ large light brown eggs per week. (200 – 220 eggs annually)  Wyandottes have a short production life of about three years

Wyandotte hens are an ideal beginner breed due to their friendly disposition, with the Gold Laced variety being the friendliest.

Color Varieties: Black, Blue, Buff, Black Laced Red, Columbian, Gold Laced, Partridge, Silver Laced, Silver Penciled, and White.

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New Hampshire Red

#7 New Hampshire Red

Excellent egg layers, New Hampshire Red hens average 4 -6 extra large brown eggs per week (200 – 220 eggs annually), laying an average of three to four years before production ceases. New Hampshire hens are known for being good broodies and excellent mothers. These traits, however, can affect the number of eggs each hen produces.

This breed is generally known for being friendly, although they can be food-aggressive and bully other hens away from the feeders.

Color Variety: Red

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Speckled Sussex

#6 Speckled Sussex

Highly intelligent and energetic, the Speckled Sussex is a well-loved breed. The hens’ calm, cheerful, and curious natures make this breed one of the most popular brown egg-laying chickens. Sussex hens love interacting with people and often carry on animated conversations with their favorite humans.

Speckled Sussex hens lay an average of 4-5 medium light brown eggs weekly (150 eggs annually). While they may not put out the same number of eggs per year as other breeds, the number rarely decreases for the first four years of their lives.

Color Varieties: Speckled is the only common variety in the United States.

#5 Delaware

Delaware hens are a fun addition to the flock with their quirky, mischievous dispositions. They are known for being good layers, averaging five large/extra large brown eggs per week (200+ eggs annually). Deleware hens produce eggs for the first three years before production ceases.

Color Variety: White with barred neck feathers and black wing and tail feathers. White feathers turn “brassy” when allowed in the sunshine.

#4 Australorp

Usually described as “shy but sweet,” Australorps are energetic, friendly, and known for their vibrant personalities. Their sweet natures make them the perfect choice for families desiring an egg layer who will quickly become part of the family.

Australorps are egg-laying rockstars, averaging 5 – 6 light brown eggs per week (about 220 – 240 eggs per year), and lay an average of 4 years.

Color Varieties: Black is the primary color available in the U.S.

#3 Rhode Island Red

Possibly the most popular brown egg-laying chickens, Rhode Island Reds are well known for their egg-laying abilities. Averaging 5 – 6 extra large brown eggs weekly (200 – 220 eggs annually), Rhode Island Reds are known for frequently laying double-yolked eggs. Hens of this breed lay consistently for about three years before production begins to slow down.

Rhode Island Red hens are calm and friendly and quickly become part of the family.

Color Variety: Red

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Plymouth Rock

#2 Plymouth Rock

One of the most popular brown egg laying chickens in America, the Plymouth Rock has many fans. They are excellent layers, and their calm nature makes them a good choice for a pet.

Plymouth Rocks are reliable layers, averaging 4 – 6 medium/large brown eggs weekly (200 – 220 eggs per year). Plymouth Rock hens’ most productive years start to decline by the age of three, but some hens have been reported to lay a respected ten years, although egg production will decrease to just a couple of eggs.

Color Varieties: Barred, Blue, Buff, Columbian, Partridge, Silver Penciled, and White.

#1 Golden Comet

An ideal chicken for novices and veteran chicken keepers alike, this breed tops the charts for egg production.  Hens are friendly, people-loving birds who sometimes prefer their human companions over the company of other chickens.

Comets are excellent egg layers and will easily outlay all other breeds. They average 5+ extra large brown eggs per week ( about 280 – 300 eggs annually). Golden Comets lay exceptionally well for the first two to three years of their lives. After age three, egg production will significantly drop.

Color Variety: Golden Red with white.

Brown egg-laying chickens have dominated the henhouse for centuries. With so many delightful breeds, it’s easy to see why many chicken keepers today choose brown egg-layers for their backyard flocks.

This article about brown egg laying hens was written for Chickens magazine online. Click here to subscribe to Chickens magazine.