Turmeric pickled eggs are a great way to preserve eggs while they are abundant before your chickens start to molt. You can freeze eggs, but my favorite way to preserve eggs is to pickle them since they last for months.
Yield: 1 pint jar
Turmeric Pickled Eggs – Ingredients
Main
5 to 6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
1 tbsp. ground turmeric
1 garlic clove, crushed
10 whole black peppercorns
1 jalapeño, sliced (optional)
Brine
1/2 cup distilled white vinegar
1/2 cup water
2 tsp. canning salt
Turmeric Pickled Eggs – Instructions
Add the peeled hardboiled eggs and the remaining ingredients to a clean pint jar.
Heat the brine ingredients to a simmer and stir until the salt is dissolved.
Carefully pour the brine over the eggs until they are completely submerged. Wipe the rim of the jar clean with a dampened cloth to remove any spillage.
Place the canning jar lid on the jar and tightly screw on the ring. Tip the jar upside down a few times to mix the ground turmeric with the brine. Transfer to the refrigerator.
Allow your turmeric pickled eggs at least one week before tasting (or 48 hours if you can’t help yourself).
Notes
Be sure to thoroughly clean your space and supplies before pickling (as when doing any food preservation). Sterilize jars and wash lids.
The longer eggs pickle in the vinegar solution, the more “rubbery” the texture of the egg white will become. Therefore, I recommend enjoying pickled eggs within three months for best texture.
Small or medium eggs are preferred for pickling, as they fit into the jar better. Pint jars fit five to six eggs and quart jars fit 10 to 12.
Use canning jars with shoulders (instead of wide-mouth jars) so that the shoulders help keep the eggs and other ingredients pushed down, underneath the brine.
This story about turmeric pickled eggs was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Chickens that lay green eggs have started to gain popularity in backyard flocks. In this guide, learn more about these extraordinary chickens, including temperament, color varieties, and egg production, to discover why these four breeds are gaining popularity.
#1 Olive Egger
Delightful and friendly, Olive Eggers are a popular breed choice for backyard flock owners who want chickens that lay green eggs. Olive Eggers are a cross between an Araucana or Ameraucana and a Marans. The cross between a blue egg-laying breed and a chocolate egg layer produces chicks that lay olive-green eggs. Now you know how this breed got its name!
Olive Egger hens are high producers, averaging 4 – 6 large/extra large eggs weekly (150 – 240 eggs annually). Eggs range in color from olive green or teal to khaki.
This breed is known for their friendly disposition. Olive Eggers are docile, easily handled, and enjoy interacting with people. Their calm personality makes them an ideal choice for novices and children. Hens rarely go broody, but they make exceptional mothers when they do.
While they are not exceptionally long-lived, Olive Eggers live an average of five to eight years (the average lifespan of most backyard breeds).
Color varieties: Olive Eggers come in shades of browns, grays, and blacks. Some individuals sport speckled or mottled feathers, while others do not.
#2 Green Queen
One of the rarest breeds of chickens that lay green eggs, the Green Queen is an ideal choice for those looking for a prolific green egg layer. Because they are hybrids, these chickens don’t breed true, making them a real surprise. Most Green Queen chickens sport a beard and muff, while others may have feathering on their legs and feet. Individuals of this breed may even have five toes.
Green Queen hens are good layers, averaging 4- 6 large eggs weekly (about 150 – 240 eggs annually). Most hens lay eggs in shades of green, but some will lay tinted or brown eggs since the breed doesn’t breed true.
Green Queen hens are cuddlier than other breeds and are known for their people-loving personalities. They get along well with humans and other chickens. However, their calm and docile personalities put them at a disadvantage when housed with more aggressive breeds.
A calm and hardy breed, the Green Queen is a good starter chicken for novice owners looking to start their backyard flock.
Average Lifespan: five to eight years.
Color Varieties: Comes in a wide array of colors, none of which breed true.
#3 Easter Egger
Did you know? Easter Eggers are the most common breed of chickens that lay green eggs. That’s right! Easter Eggers are among the most commonly found chickens in backyard flocks, rivaling even the Barred Plymouth Rock. So, what makes this breed popular?
Another colored egg layer hybrid, Easter Eggers do not breed true. This trait makes it impossible to breed for a feather or egg color, earning this breed its name. This breed is especially popular with children, who love the color varieties these chickens offer.
Easter Egger hens are excellent producers, averaging 4 – 6 large/extra large blue, green, or brown eggs weekly (250 – 280 eggs annually). Easter Eggers rarely go broody as these hens were bred to lay an abundance of colored eggs, not hatch and raise chicks.
Friendly, calm, and sweet-natured, Easter Eggers thrive on human attention and snuggling on their favorite owner’s lap. However, their docile nature puts them at a disadvantage when housed with more aggressive breeds.
Average Lifespan: Five to eight years.
Color Varieties: Easter Eggers come in many colors, none of which breed true.
#4 Favaucana
The Goldendoodle of the chicken word, the Favaucana, is a cross between the Ameraucana and Salmon Faverolles. This breed possesses the calm and sweet personality of the Faverolles and the extreme cold-hardiness of the Ameraucana. Their cold-hardiness makes them ideal for those in colder climates desiring chickens that lay green eggs.
Favaucana hens are excellent layers, producing an average of 5 large sage green eggs weekly (about 250 – 300 eggs annually).
Calm, sweet, and docile, Favaucana chickens are an excellent breed for the novice. This breed does well in a mixed flock and shouldn’t be easily bullied. Favaucana hens go broody and make excellent mothers.
Average Lifespan: Five to eight years.
Color Varieties: Wheaten and Blue. (Even though the Favaucana has recognized colors, the American Poultry Association does not recognize this breed)
Note: Favaucanas and Green Queen chickens are rare breeds that are only available at select hatcheries.
While chickens that lay green eggs may not have as many breeds to choose from or be as popular as brown egg layers, they are starting to increase in popularity. If you want a green egg layer, these four delightful breeds are ideal for the novice or veteran backyard flock keeper.
This article about what chickens lay green eggs was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Listen to Melissa Stewart’s story about the West Virginia National Guard’s Patriot Guardens program — the only agricultural unit embedded in a National Guard unit — and how it grew from an educational program to what it has become in 7 years: an urban farm in Charleston, a flock of laying hens, farmers markets, an orchard on reclaimed coal-mine land in Central West Virginia, a robust beekeeping program, business and marketing support, a composting project, family programming, and mental-health services. All grant-funded, Patriot Guardens is ever-evolving.
Melissa Stewart is the director of the West Virginia National Guard’s Patriot Guardens program.
Melissa talks about the ways this program is benefiting their military service people and veterans, with some seeing agriculture as a possible retirement plan, giving them an opportunity to continue to give back to their community after their military service. Hear about a success story of one participant who’s turned what he’s learned in the program into a thriving plant business. And Melissa gets emotional talking about why Patriot Guardens is important to her and the impact it has on their service members.
As a greenhouse production grower before becoming an Extension agent (and now working with Patriot Guardens), Melissa has a ton of experience using a range of gardening techniques. Listen to the end for Melissa’s advice on getting starting with aeroponics at home.
Heat stress in cows can be a real problem as summertime heat builds. Extremely hot days with the glaring sun are only made bearable by the blowing breeze and the welcome cover of shade from nearby trees.
Different livestock animals possess unique features to help them survive and adapt to different environment. Cattle are no exception. But there are a few things we can do to make them a little more comfortable.
What kind of weather combination is so hard on cattle? Is it the sun and high temperatures that beat them down or is it high humidity?
It’s actually a combination of both.
Dry, 95°F heat, for example, is unpleasant but not unbearable. But it’s when that 95°F day is coupled with 80 percent humidity that lasts for a majority of the day that animals can become overloaded.
In The Cattle Health Handbook, author Heather Thomas notes that any air temperature above 80°F can cause heat stress when paired with 75 percent humidity. (That is, if it stays above 80°F 24 hours a day, even through the night.)
During High Heat, Look for Signs of Heat Stress in Cows
So how do you know if an animal has overheated?
What are some physical signs you look for? When visiting with a local rancher, he said that in extreme cases, you’ll notice:
rapid breathing
frothing at the mouth
possibly even the tongue hanging out
He mentioned that cattle will also pace back and forth, trying to find a cooler spot. Here are a few key things you can put in place to help make the summer season a bit more bearable for cattle.
1. Offer Plenty of Fresh, Cool Water
Water is a requirement for any season and time of the year. But during the summer, it’s critical.
According to Thomas, cattle need more than 4 gallons of water per 100 pounds of body weight, if the temperature is over 95 degrees. For a 500-pound animal, that’s over 20 gallons of water per day.
Water intake will vary depending on the kind of cattle you have, if they’re steers or lactating cows, etc.
As for water sources, if your cattle are dependent on a pond for their water supply, be sure to check it often. (If it’s not very large or is prone to leaking from time to time, check daily.) Also, have a backup plan ready just in case it goes dry. Different water sources include reliable streams or rivers, ponds or windmills.
A last resort is always to haul water to a stock tank. This can be a pain. But some way or another, you must make sure the cattle have plenty of water available at all times.
2. Provide Sunshades or Trees
For cattle in feedlots, sunshades are a great option to help give cattle a break from the golden rays. A couple of things to consider as you set up your shade are the location and size of shadow it will cast, and the material it is made of.
A shade would be best located toward the middle of a pen. There, it will be easily accessible as the shadow moves throughout the day.
3. Feed at the Correct Time
When feeding cattle during the summer, avoid feeding them in the heat of the day. Preferably, feed during the early morning and late evening.
Cattle produce heat as they digest forages and feed. So if not fed early enough in the day, they will end up digesting food midday during the peak of the heat.
Another advantage of feeding early is that cattle will be more willing to eat while it’s cooler out. As it heats up, they’ll pick around and eat less.
4. Provide Salt & Minerals
Just like people will drink sports drinks to get electrolytes, it’s important to help your cattle out by offering salt and mineral blocks in easily accessible areas.
Both sodium and minerals are lost through body fluids and sweating. If not replaced, cattle will fair even worse in the heat.
5. Let the Animals Rest
Move and work the cattle as little as possible during the heat of the day. Whether it is working and vaccinating them, walking them to a different location, or physically loading and transporting them, it’s best to wait until it cools off.
When hauling them somewhere, you can make sure that there is plenty of airflow in the trailer and that animals are loaded loosely. Avoid packing them in too tight.
Overall, just do your best to keep the animals comfortable during the summer. Don’t work or rush them, offer plenty of water, minerals and shade, and be patient with them.
If you have questions, reach out to someone around you—whether it’s a vet or a local rancher/farmer. It will cool off soon enough. But in the meantime, go jump in the pond.
This article about heat stress in cows was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Drying herbs through the high season is a great way to take advantage of the abundance and have homegrown herbs on hand all year. Growing and drying your own herbs is incredibly cost-effective. A .6-ounce jar of organic dried basil is nearly $5 at the grocery store!
For the best taste and texture, it’s recommended to dry herbs earlier in the season, before they bloom and start going to seed. But for most of us, we aren’t in the harvest/drying mindset until later in the growing season.
So, if you haven’t dried any herbs yet, don’t worry! Now is as good a time as ever to stock your pantry. Here are five tips for a successful harvest.
1. Harvest in the Morning
Make sure you are harvesting at the right time of day to maximize the flavor of your dried herbs. Harvest herbs in the morning, after the dew has dried. Clip the younger, more tender growth from the plants.
2. Wash Your Harvested Herbs
Wash herbs after harvesting. Soak in cold water briefly to perk them up and clean off any dirt/insects. Pat them dry with a lint-free towel, but stay mindful not to bruise/damage the herbs when doing so. Discard any damaged or bug-eaten areas.
3. Use a Dehydrator
If using a food dehydrator for drying herbs, you’ll want to dry herbs on the lowest temperature the dehydrator will go, ideally 95 to 110°F.
Dry herbs in a single layer. Drying time varies by location and humidity in the air but will take several hours. Check occasionally to determine when done.
Put like-sized leaves/cuttings together since they will dry faster, and it’ll be easy to remove them as they become dry and leave the larger ones to continue drying.
4. Air Drying Herbs
If air-drying herbs, create small bundles of like kind to hang upside down. Hang out of direct sunlight. This method of drying will take several days. A location with airflow is ideal.
5. Dry Completely
Make sure to dry herbs completely until the leaves easily crumble and stems easily snap. This will help to prevent mold. Store in airtight containers/jars out of direct sunlight.
This article about five tips for drying herbs was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Ducks vs. chickens: You have probably heard many backyard flock enthusiasts refer to ducks as the “new chicken.” Ducks and chickens are not birds of the same feather; learn more as we dive into what makes ducks genuinely unique.
Family Matters
Did you know ducks and chickens are not related? That’s right. Ducks are members of the waterfowl family (think wild ducks, geese, swans and loons) and chickens are members of the pheasant family.
Erin Snyder
Water Lovers
One of the most noticeable differences when comparing ducks vs. chickens is a duck’s love of water. Unlike their chicken cousins, who detest getting wet, nothing makes a duck happier than splashing in a kiddie pool.
Ducks require a bucket to submerge their heads daily to clean their eyes and airways. They also require swimming in a kiddie pool several times weekly to keep their feathers clean.
Duck vs. Chicken Fact: Did you know? Mature laying hens drink an average of one pint of water daily, while adult ducks drink as much as one-half gallon of water. Both species require clean drinking water changed twice daily for optimal health.
A Messy House
Ducks are notorious for turning a clean, dry coop into a wet, messy disaster overnight. Unlike their chicken cousins, ducks can’t go without water overnight, so duck owners have no choice but to deal with a messy coop.
Duck vs. Chicken Fact: A duck’s messy lifestyle is not ideal for a chicken. Wet living conditions can make chickens ill, so housing the two species separately is advised.
Nutritional Differences
Ducks require different nutritional needs than chickens. Laying ducks require more protein, crude fat and niacin than chickens to lay eggs. Adult ducks’ nutritional differences can often be balanced by allowing them access to green pastures and supplementing their diet with Brewer’s yeast to ensure they receive enough niacin.
Ducklings also require more nutrition than chicks to grow healthy and strong. The best way to ensure your duckings stay healthy is by feeding them feed formulated for ducklings.
Duck vs. Chicken Fact: Ducklings require twenty percent more niacin than chicks.
Predator Protection
Just like chickens, ducks need protection from predators. The best way to protect your duck flock from a predator attack is to cover the run sides, roof, and coop windows with a half-inch 16-gauge hardware cloth and attach predator skirts to deter digging. Leave no gap bigger than ½ inch in either your coop or run. House all poultry in a coop with a wooden or cement floor.
Only allow ducks to free range if directly supervised by an adult.
Duck vs. Chicken Fact: Unlike chickens, ducks can’t fly into a tree to avoid a fox. They also lack sharp beaks and spurs that many chickens use to attack a predator.
Eggs, Eggs, Eggs
Duck vs. chicken eggs is a popular debate among backyard flock owners. Unlike their chicken cousins, ducks usually lay their eggs in the morning, saving you from needing to search the run for eggs. While duck eggs are significantly larger than chicken eggs, the egg size comes at a price. Each duck requires two cups of feed daily, compared to one-half cup per chicken.
Ducks generally produce more eggs than laying hens; however, both species should stop to molt and overwinter before resuming laying in the spring.
Duck vs. Chicken Fact: An average duck egg weighs between seventy and eighty grams. Meanwhile, a chicken egg weighs between fifty and sixty grams.
Noise Please
Are ducks quieter than chickens? Ducks don’t sing an egg song or crow, but a duck cutting loose with a loud quack can carry a far distance and even echo.
Ducks are usually quieter than chickens, but this largely depends on the breed, as some are noisier than others.
Duck vs. Chicken Fact: While roosters are loud, drake ducks have a soft quack. However, a female duck’s deep quack can be very loud.
Ducky Behaviors
Ducks vs. chickens behaviors vary greatly. From bobbing their heads and hours spent preening to stunning courtship displays, ducks continue to fascinate us with their behaviors. But why do ducks do these behaviors?
Courtship Displays
Drakes perform courtship displays to attract a mate, but they will also perform them for their favorite humans. Drakes twist their bodies in various movements, splash water with their bills, and whistle, showing off their curly tail feathers and wing speculums (the blue wing patch found on Mallards and other gray ducks like Rouens).
Most courtship displays occur when ducks are courting in the fall and winter, but some drakes will perform year-round.
Duck vs. Chicken Fact: Unlike a rooster with a flock of multiple hens, many drakes prefer having only one female.
Preening Time
When watching ducks vs. chickens preening, the difference is astounding. Chickens spend minutes a day preening, while ducks spend hours. As members of the waterfowl family, ducks must protect their feathers with a sticky oil found in the gland at the base of their tail. This oil protects ducks from the elements, including waterproofing them.
Duck vs. Chicken Fact: Chickens also have an oil gland at the base of their tails, but their feathers are only water-repelling.
Head Bobs
Ducks bob their heads to communicate with other ducks. What they say to each other depends on how high their heads are positioned and how fast or slow they move their heads. Let’s break down some common headbobs.
Slow Two Duck Headbob: When two ducks slowly bob their heads up and down at each other, this behavior signifies a courtship display.
Fast Bill to the Ground Headbob: When a duck performs a fast bill to the ground headbob, the duck is angry. This behavior is usually accompanied by aggressive quacking and is only performed by female ducks.
Submissive Headbob: Female ducks perform a submissive headbob when greeting ducks higher in the pecking order or their mate.
Ducks may not be the “new chicken,” but they offer backyard poultry enthusiasts as many eggs and countless hours of entertainment as their chicken cousins. So, if you’re comparing duck vs chicken for your flock, why not try both?
Ducks in the garden are becoming increasingly popular. Tough on pests and easy on plants, ducks have won the hearts of many gardeners.
Why Ducks?
With their cheerful faces and happy quacks, it’s easy to see why many people fall in love with ducks, but their sweet nature isn’t why many gardeners have employed ducks.
Ducks are excellent at pest control and, if given the opportunity, will rid a garden of slugs, Japanese beetles, and other harmful pests.
Many gardeners prefer keeping ducks versus chickens as ducks do not scratch up tender vegetation like their chicken cousins.
Safety First
Before allowing ducks to free-range in the garden, consider these safety tips.
Only allow ducks out to graze when you are there to supervise them directly. This eliminates the chance of a predator attacking your flock.
Consider setting up a puppy playpen to prevent ducks from wandering too far from the garden. Small animal playpens also work well for this. However, playpens are not predator-proof, so only use them in the garden when you’re with the flock.
When working in raised beds, surround the perimeter with portable fencing to prevent ducks from falling or jumping out of the garden. This is important as ducks can easily injure or break their legs when jumping.
If you allow ducks to overwinter in the garden, housing them in a chicken tractor during daylight hours will benefit your garden soil while keeping your flock safe. Attaching predator skirts to prevent digging predators makes the experience even safer.
Do not allow ducks in a garden that has been sprayed with pesticides, insecticides or harmful fertilizer.
Choosing a Garden Companion
All duck breeds enjoy helping in the garden, but some breeds are exceptional at removing pests. Ideal breeds for the small backyard gardener include Ancona, Indian Runner, Khaki Campbell, Pekin and Welsh Harlequin.
Of all the breeds listed above, the Pekin is the most recommended. While Pekins are often overlooked for pest control, these darling ducks are exceptionally good in the garden as they don’t stray too far from home, like to stick close to their favorite human and are excellent at bug control,
However, if your garden has expanded into a several-acre plot or orchard, choosing a more active breed, such as an Indian Runner or Swedish, is advised.
Indian Runners are a common choice for large garden plots, while Swedish ducks are a popular choice for orchardists. Both breeds love to forage and are happiest when allowed to free range, trimming weeds and grasses and feasting on harmful pests.
Note: Swedish ducks can fly, so their wings need to be trimmed to keep them close to home.
Keep Away Slugs
Gardeners keep ducks in the garden for many reasons, but slugs are among the most popular. Slugs destroy the garden by chewing holes in plants and leaves, weakening the plant. Plants attacked by slugs often die or produce fewer fruits and vegetables.
When allowed in the garden, ducks happily devour any slugs they can get their bills on. Their ability to rid the garden of slugs has made keeping ducks in the garden popular in Great Britain, where wet conditions result in slug infestations.
However, if you want to rid the garden of slugs but prefer to keep ducks out, building a slug trap can quickly resolve a slug problem.
Making a DIY slug trap is an easy and effective way to remove slugs from your garden. Lay a piece of cardboard, patio blocks, or untreated wood around the perimeter of your garden, paying close attention to areas with high slug infestations (think lettuce and strawberries).
Check the traps for slugs and other bugs every morning. To feed, use a trowel and scrape the slugs into your ducks’ food bowl. Set the food bowl down and watch your ducks enjoy a feeding frenzy.
Protecting Plants From Webbed Feet
Protecting plants from webbed feet has never been easier. Ducks are much easier on plants than chickens. Unlike their chicken cousins, ducks don’t scratch through newly planted vegetation, destroying all plant life.
When working in the garden, our ducks usually nibble on the lettuce and other leafy greens, but their main focus is looking for bugs. However, we always keep the ducks out of the garden until plants have matured enough to withstand trampling from webbed feet.
Using portable fencing is another great way to fence ducks into a small portion of the garden, or it can also be used to fence off any vegetation you don’t want your ducks getting into.
Keep Water Out
The best way to prevent ducks from destroying the garden is to keep water out. Ducks love water and can quickly turn a beautiful garden into a muddy mess.
Avoid watering the garden for several hours before allowing ducks access. Place a water bucket for your ducks to drink from at the garden’s edge where they can easily access it without destroying plant life.
Goodbye, Beetles
Junebugs, Japanese beetles and Colorado Potato beetles are just a few of the beetles ducks love to eat. Allowing ducks supervised free-ranging time will help reduce harmful beetles feasting on the plants.
Have some beetles that are out of your duck’s reach? Simply handpick the beetles and store them in a freezer-safe bag in the freezer. Once the bugs become sluggish, remove them from the freezer and feed them to your ducks. You can also feed completely frozen beetles to ducks.
Companionship
Nothing beats spending some garden time with your favorite web-footed friends. Even weeding the garden is more fun with a flock of ducks by your side. Ducks will keep you entertained with their happy chatter and antics while removing harmful pests from plants and the soil.
So, next time you pull weeds or pick beans, why not let the ducks out to help you?
This article about ducks in the garden was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Preserving vegetables in jars. Abobe Stock/yanadjan
Pickle recipes don’t have to involve standing over a boiling hot water bath canner when the temperature outside is triple digits. Instead, quick pickling is your answer to easy and painless preserving.
It’s especially helpful to learn how to quick pickle if you have small harvests from your garden or if you want to preserve something quickly before it spoils.
There are many delicious quick pickle recipes in the world, but to keep it simple, I stick to one basic brine recipe that I tailor to whatever the main ingredient is that I’m pickling.
Basic Pickle Recipe for Brine
My basic quick pickle recipe for brining pickles is:
1 cup water
1 cup 5 percent white distilled vinegar
1 tbsp. canning/pickling sat
This amount of brine will cover a one-quart jar packed with vegetables and seasonings.
Here are three quick pickle recipes for you to try this summer. But remember to be creative and with my basic brine recipe above, you can experiment with any fresh produce and seasonings if your choice.
1-2 pounds fresh small pickling cucumbers
1 garlic clove, sliced
1 tsp. dried dill seed or 2 springs of fresh dill
1 tsp. yellow mustard seeds
Note: If you have large pickling cucumbers, you can halve or quarter them lengthwise and fit them into the jar. If you want sliced cucumbers for burgers, it’s recommended to use small pickling cucumbers for the best texture. Also, always only use cucumbers that have been harvested within 48 hours – this will aid in keeping the pickles crunchy.
In a nonreactive pan, bring the brine ingredients to a simmer and stir until the salt is dissolved.
Ladle the warm brine over the vegetables until they are completely covered with brine by at least one-quarter inch.
Wipe the rim with a dampened towel to remove any brine and add the canning lid and screw on the ring. Allow the warm jar to cool on your counter until it reaches room temperature. Once cooled, transfer to the refrigerator. Allow the veggies to pickle for at least 48 hours before tasting.
The longer your veggies pickle, the more flavor they will have. They’ll have the best flavor and texture if enjoyed within two months.
Quick Pickle Recipe Notes
Always wash supplies with warm soapy water when preserving food. Also, be sure that your food prep space has also been thoroughly cleaned before beginning.
When it comes to pickling brine, use pickle recipes that note to use at least a ratio of 1:1 vinegar and water. You want at least 50% or more of the brine to be vinegar. When it comes to vinegar, you want to use vinegar that has at least 5% acidity, this will ensure that your pickle recipe is safe.
This article about quick pickle recipes was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Plant identification apps are the greatest hack for gardeners in the 2020s. Before plant apps, gardening groups, encyclopedias and web searches were all tedious ways to identify weeds, flowers or anything popping up in the garden. Now with a snap of the camera and a click of a button, the answers can be generated quickly, easily and effectively. We will go over the pros and cons of the top 5 apps in the plant ID world.
Picture-Taking Steps for App ID
Apps are great for gardeners who see plants on vacation or away from home and want to add to their garden. Plant identification apps are also in their own gardens to identify weeds versus volunteer plants and when plants emerge and aren’t easy to identify. Plant identification apps are extremely useful tools for identifying weeds versus poisonous vines and plants. To use any plant app you can take pictures of bark, flowers, stems or leaves and almost instantly learn the plant genus and often even the cultivar. No matter which app you use, follow these picture taking steps to ensure the best results.
Pay attention to lighting. Try to take pictures in the morning, evening or on a cloudy day. The harsh direct sun makes it more difficult for the app to read the picture.
Focus on the subject. On phones, you can tap the plant you want to be the focus to make sure the camera is focusing on the right target.
Isolate the subject. If the plant you want to be identified is not prominently pulled away from the group, try to find a way to isolate what you are wanting to identify. No apps identify multiple plants in a picture. It is one identification per picture.
5 Best Plant Identification App List
#1 Plant.Net
Plant.net is the “Wikipedia” of ID Apps. It is free with public contributors and relies on its users to help out by confirming correct identifications. The app has a GPS component that also helps narrow down the answers based on what has been identified in your area.
Pros- No sneaky pop-ups or ads results in quicker findings. Very accurate and keeps a log once you are signed in and creates groups you can follow from all around the world.
Cons- The answers are simple and don’t go into as much detail as other apps. For some, it is enough just knowing plant species but compared to other apps it lacks information for educators or users who want to know more.
#2 iNaturalist
iNaturalist is a go-to for nature enthusiasts. It connects users to a community of people looking for both flora and fauna. iNaturalist data is used by scientists to advance science and conservation and has been used in thousands of scientific publications. For example, scientists have published papers based on iNaturalist data that describe species new to science and rediscover species that were once thought extinct.
Pros- A community of enthusiasts with several group options for conversations and following particular species. It is free and has a wealth of information.
Cons- If you are looking for a quick plant ID, this can be too much information.
#3 Picture This
Picture This has both a free version and a paid version by the Gority Global Group. Features beyond identification in Picture This include AI-powered plant doctors that help diagnose plant problems, lighting needs for each specimen and guides for watering and feeding.
Pros- Users believe this is worth the subscription if you really want to be a plant mom to your garden, rather than wanting to know whether to pull the weed or not. The AI and technology are very successful and the amenities are nice. Keeping a log of what you are growing is helpful to be able to go back and check articles when a plant needs care. There are always helpful linked articles including pest control, house plant care and propagating plants.
Cons- The premium version is $29/year and the ads can be a nuisance. If you choose not to start a subscription, get ready to click the x every time you want to look up a plant. If you plan to just ID plants, free versions work just as well.
#4 Google Lens
Google Lens is available through the free Google app for all smartphones. Google Lens allows you to take a photo or upload one for identification and it is free. The steps to identify through the Google App include:
First, shoot a photo of the entity.
Open the pic through Google Photos.
Tap the lens icon at the bottom.
That will launch a web search & show all the relevant results.
Adjust the four corners of the focus area if you prefer to improve the accuracy of the results further.
Pros- Google Lens goes beyond plant identification and acts as a search engine that connects articles relevant to the subject.
Cons- Reports show it is less accurate than some of the other Plant ID Apps.
#5 Visual Look Up
Visual Look Up is built into iPhones and iPads and can identify objects in photos and videos and provide relevant information. Apple Users need to perform the following steps.
Open a photo in full screen or pause a video on any frame. If the Info button displays a symbol with stars Visual Look Up is available.
Tap the starred Info button, then tap Look Up at the top of the photo information to view the Visual Look Up results.
Tap to close the Visual Look Up results, then swipe down on the photo or video frame to close the photo information.
Pros- No App required. No subscription sales or ads. Can pull information from videos, rather than just photos.
Cons- Only for iPhones running iOS 15 or later. Also, results are showing around 80% accuracy.
As the world of AI develops, apps will adapt and become even more accurate. Keep up to date with the upgrades available to get the best results. And never rely 100% on plant ID apps before ingesting plants.
This article about the best plant identification apps was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
The Harlequin rabbit is a French breed, known primarily for its multicolored coat which, in a perfectly patterned specimen, resembles a medieval court jester. The Harlequin is categorized as a commercial breed – used primarily for meat – by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). However, the American Harlequin Rabbit Club reports that the breed is primarily raised for its coloring, not for meat. Processing is usually done only for rabbits that do not meet coat standards.
The Harlequin is an exceptionally social animal, even for a rabbit. They do best with plenty of exercise and lots of attention. The ideal weight for the Harlequin is 6.5-9.5 pounds. They have few grooming needs and are not prone to any unusual health issues, beyond the normal concerns of rabbits. Most Harlequins live at least 5 years and up to ten years is common.
Harlequin Rabbit Coloring
The Harlequin is an old breed, with the initial color schemes and patterns first appearing in 1887. Currently, it comes in two color varieties, known as Japanese and Magpie.
Japanese show quality Harlequin rabbit. Harley Dote/Wikimedia Commons
Japanese was the original color scheme, combining orange with another color – most commonly black. Blue, chocolate and lilac are also considered valid colors. They were initially known by a wide variety of names but became known as “Japanese” because – at the time – Asian countries were often associated with the strange and unique.
The magpie coloring was first mentioned in 1946. Magpie coloring is a white rabbit, combined with another color; again, most commonly black. Like the Japanese, blue, chocolate and lilac are also acceptable secondary colors.
Harlequin Rabbit Patterns
Face & Ears
In both the magpie and Japanese standards of perfection, the requirements are similar. A perfect rabbit is considered to have its primary color on half its face, and the secondary color on the other. There should be a perfect, vertical line down the center of the face where the colors meet. The ears should be held in a “V” shape and must each be one color – opposite that of the face color.
As an example, in a Magpie-lilac, the primary color will be white and the secondary will be lilac. If the left side of the face is white, the ear on the left must be lilac. The ear on the right should be white, and the face color should be lilac. A lack of clear division on the face is a disqualifying trait in showing.
LadyElizabeth
Legs & Body
The legs should also alternate. If the left front paw is white, the right back paw must be white. The other two legs should be the secondary color. Rabbits of the Japanese type are disqualified if they present with white toenails.
The body should have bands of color down its length – alternating the primary and secondary colors. These can be solid bands or split bands. Split bands have a line that runs down the back and wraps around the body. Like the face, these lines must be distinct where the colors meet – primary color on one side, secondary on the other, swapping in the next band, and so on down the back.
White spots in the Japanese type are a disqualifying trait when showing. White coloring under the tail and body, however, has been an area of contention between Harlequin breeders and the ARBA for some time. This is a normal presentation for the Japanese color. However, there have been instances of the ARBA pushing for this to be a disqualifying trait. Currently, though, it remains allowed in show rabbits.
This article about the harlequin rabbit was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
