Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Health & Nutrition Poultry

Treating Water Belly (Ascites) In A Chicken

Water belly is a colloquial term for a potentially serious condition in a hen called ascites. Ascites is the inappropriate accumulation of fluid within the body cavity of a hen. To understand this condition and know how to manage it appropriately, we first must discuss anatomy.

Normally, there is a membrane in the back half of the body around the intestines called the peritoneal membrane. There is a “potential” space formed by this membrane that typically has nothing inside it. However, when ascites occurs, fluid accumulates within this potential space. 

A unique anatomical feature that is present in birds is the presence of air sacs. Air sacs are membranes that branch off the lungs and are present within the body cavity from the neck down to the intestines. Although they don’t participate in gas exchange, air moves through them to get to the lungs for gas exchange to occur. The air sacs are thin-walled and can change in size based on other structures next to them. This means if fluid accumulates in the belly, it can push on these air sacs, causing an alteration of air flow.

What & How? 

Various disease processes can happen that can cause fluid to accumulate in the peritoneal space. But there are four basic pathophysiologic mechanisms of how it occurs.

  1. Decreased Osmotic Pressure

    The first to discuss is known as decreased osmotic pressure. There is a process known as osmosis that governs the flow of fluids across a membrane. Large particles on one side of a membrane cause fluid to want to stay on that side of the membrane with them.

    In the case of blood vessels, the protein called albumin acts as this large particle. Albumin protein is necessary to help maintain fluid appropriately within blood vessels. If there isn’t enough of it, fluid can leak out of blood vessels. Problems such as liver disease or gastrointestinal disorders could lead to lower levels of albumin in the blood, thus resulting in fluid to accumulate within the intestinal peritoneal cavity.

  2. Hydrostatic Pressure

    The second disease process that causes ascites is an increase in hydrostatic pressure. We can think about the heart and blood vessels as essentially a tubing system with the fluid that is running through it being blood. In various forms of heart disease blood may not be being pumped around the body effectively, leading to pressure alterations. This increased hydrostatic pressure then results in fluids leaking out of blood vessels and accumulating within body cavities or within organs.

  3. Vasculitis

    The third way ascites develops is by a process called vasculitis. This is where blood vessels are inflamed for an underlying reason, and it makes the junctions between the cells that line the blood vessels not fit together as well. This causes fluid to leak out of blood vessels. Underlying disease processes that cause inflammation include infectious diseases, local irritants and other problems. Various reproductive problems can lead to vasculitis including things such as egg yolk peritonitis, an impacted oviduct, cystic ovarian disease and reproductive tract cancers.

  4. Impaired Lymphatic Drainage

    Lastly, the fourth pathologic process that leads to ascites is impaired lymphatic drainage. The lymphatic system in the body is involved in helping fluids that are out in tissues to be taken up and put back into the vascular system. This sort of system is more developed in mammals, but it’s still present to a minor degree in birds.

When a hen develops ascites by one of these routes, the same problem and signs will occur. If a small amount of fluid accumulates it may not cause her to have any signs. However, if a large amount of fluid accumulates this ends up putting pressure on her abdominal organs and leads to compression of air sacs.Signs she can have associated with this include things such as respiratory distress, open beak breathing, panting and becoming easily winded after running around. Some signs are very vague, and she may just be less vocal, acting tired or not eating as well. If you feel her bottom, she may have a very rounded, full-feeling belly. More than likely, she’ll not be laying during this time, but it’s possible that she may still try. 

water belly ascites
Stephanie Lamb, DMV

What Should You Do

If you find that your hen has a round-feeling bottom, do not try to treat her yourself without knowing why her belly is the way that it is. The reality is, that rounded belly could be ascites, but it could be any number of other problems as well. A mass, an enlarged organ or a large amount of fat can all feel very similar, even to the trained professional who feels chicken bellies every day! You really must get a veterinarian to do a thorough physical exam and some testing to know if ascites is present. 

Your veterinarian may want to do a few different tests to tell what is going on in the belly of your hen. I recommend doing one of two tests to diagnose ascites. 

The first is an ultrasound. This is very quick and allows the veterinarian to immediately tell if there is any fluid present. It also allows them to know exactly where they need to drain the fluid from. Sometimes this diagnostic test also allows the veterinarian to tell which of the previously described pathologic causes is behind why the ascites developed. Sometimes it does not. 

The other test the veterinarian may want to do to diagnose ascites is to place a needle into the abdomen to see if they can draw fluid out. If they can get fluid out this is abnormal and ascites is present!

Now here is where the dilemma comes in that each individual owner needs to decide. Is your chicken a production animal that is a part of your farm? Or is your chicken a pet? 

If your chicken is a production animal, you need to seriously consider how humane it is to keep on going with this bird. Once ascites is diagnosed, to treat it appropriately, you must find out why it is happening. This allows you to get the most targeted, appropriate and effective treatments and care done. However, this can become expensive quickly. Your bird may need blood work, cultures, cardiac ultrasounds (echocardiograms) and even exploratory surgery to figure out why ascites is happening.

Yes, all this can be done in a chicken but are you prepared to do it? 

If your bird is a production animal, these diagnostics may not be practical. And the other harsh reality that needs to be discussed is that most of the causes for ascites are serious ailments that do not have good outcomes in the long run. Yes, treatments can be done, but not all problems are fixable. 

For those problems that can’t be fixed, treatments to keep a bird comfortable and improve quality of life may be able to be done. However, it may be prolonging the inevitable. If you don’t want to do treatments or diagnostics, it’s OK and, even more importantly, humane to consider euthanizing or culling that individual. 

If your bird is a pet or has become one over time, you may want to work with your veterinarian and do some of the previously mentioned diagnostics. Once the cause for ascites is determined, treatment options need to be discussed. 

In many chickens, the main cause of ascites is a reproductive disorder. Many people think the only cause of ascites is egg yolk peritonitis. This is simply not the case. As we learn more about avian medicine and do more diagnostics, we’re finding that many other forms of reproductive tract pathology can cause ascites. I have personally seen more birds with cancer of the reproductive tract causing ascites than egg yolk coelomitis cases. 

water belly ascites
Stephanie Lamb, DMV

Treatment

Depending upon what your veterinarian determines, the cause of the ascites will determine what treatments need to be done. 

If your bird happens to have: 

  • Liver Disease Causing Ascites: Liver support medications may be needed. 
  • Heart Disease: Heart medications are in order. 
  • Egg Yolk Coelomitis: Anti-inflammatories and possibly antibiotics are needed. 
  • Cancer of The Reproductive Tract: Sometimes hormone therapies, pain medications, anti-inflammatories and omega-3 fatty acids are recommended. 
  • An Impacted Oviduct: She may need to be spayed.

Although treatments may vary, one treatment that all forms of ascites will have in common is the need to have fluid drained from the belly. This treatment can give your bird some immediate relief. If you’re lucky and it’s a simple case of egg yolk peritonitis, one draining may be all that is needed. 

Yes, you read that correctly. I said you’re lucky if it’s egg yolk peritonitis, and you may have this problem only once. You’ll read in many places that egg yolk peritonitis is a death sentence and, if it causes ascites once, it will just keep happening. The reality is that information is based off the assumption that all causes of ascites are from egg yolk coelomitis. And as we have discussed throughout this article they simply are not. 

Yes, many causes of ascites will be repeated problems (for example liver disease, heart disease, reproductive tract cancers, cysts), but egg yolk peritonitis doesn’t have to be one of those that leads to repeated fluid build-up. In fact, every time I have worked with a bird that has had ascites reoccur, it has had some other cause for the ascites than egg yolk peritonitis. So, consider that fact if you encounter this problem in your hen and she develops this as a reoccurring issue. 

One problem that owners have asked me is if they can drain their bird’s belly of fluid on their own at home. My answer for this is that you really need to work with your veterinarian and have them tell you if this is OK to do with your bird or not. In many cases, it won’t be. 

Not only does the fluid draining need to be a sterile procedure, it needs to be done in the correct location of the abdomen. If the incorrect location is poked with a needle, it can cause problems and be painful. One owner informed me once that she knew of someone online who would put needles into their hen’s belly and let them walk around and drain the fluid on their own. I must say that this is a highly inappropriate and inhumane to do. 

One problem with this is that leaving a needle in the body is leaving a hole in the body that bacteria can climb up into, which could result in an infection. That’s a quick way to make your bird sicker and die faster. The other problem with this is as the fluid drains that needle will start to scrape against the internal organs. This could lead to lacerations on organs and damage, and it must also be highly uncomfortable.

Please don’t do this to your chicken. Get help from your veterinarian if you want to treat your bird. And if you don’t, please consider humane euthanasia or culling.

Ultimately, most of the diseases that cause ascites can become chronic problems that require lifelong management or medications. Occasionally, you may get lucky and have it be a one-time problem. However, working with your veterinarian can help you to determine what the cause is for your bird. And it can help you to determine what you need to do to treat it.

Remember: It’s OK to say you don’t want to treat the problem. But if you don’t, please do what is right by the bird. Don’t let it suffer. 

This article originally appeared in the Nov./Dec. 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Equipment Farm & Garden News

10 Stocking Stuffer Ideas To Consider For The Farmer In Your Life

Every year, around Thanksgiving, I pen a column for HobbyFarms.com suggesting gift ideas perfect for farmers. But what about the perfect stocking stuffer gifts? That’s a key distinction. An electric chainsaw is a great gift for a farmer, but it’s a bit expensive for a stocking stuffer. And of course, stuffing a chainsaw inside a stocking is easier said than done.

So if you’re seeking last-minute stocking stuffer ideas for the farmer you know, here are 10 ideas to get you started.

1. Flashlight

You can’t go wrong with a flashlight, especially if the farmer lives far enough north where winter nights are long. Opt for a bright LED flashlight to cut through the darkness.

2. Zip Ties

Zip ties can be used in so many ways. I use them in abundance to attach welded wire and/or black plastic fencing to metal T-posts, but any time you need to quickly and easily tie things together, zip ties are a simple option.

3. Locking Pliers

One of my favorite tools, and a perfect stocking stuffer for a farmer. Locking pliers lock tightly in place and don’t require squeezing by hand to maintain their grip, so they’re awesome for loosening stubborn nuts and bolts.

4. Bungee Cords

Bungee cords, like zip ties, are useful in many ways. I frequently use them to tie down loads I’m transporting around the farm: hay bales, potted trees, corral panels, etc.

5. Post & Pipe Level

A simple yet ingenious tool. A post and pipe level has two sides connected at a right angle, with three bubbles (one on each side and one at the joint) allowing you to gauge  whether a post (or pipe) is perfectly plumb or level. You can check multiple directions at the same time, saving you from switching a simpler level back and forth from one side to the next.

6. Sharpening Stone

Do you know a farmer whose tools have gotten dull? A sharpening stone can restore the cutting power to knives and other cutting blades.

7. Battery-Powered Radio

A small battery-powered radio that tunes in FM and AM radio broadcasts gives a farmer something to listen to, even when they’re tackling dirty or dusty jobs where they’d rather not take other devices.

8. Safety Glasses/Goggles

The farmer in your life might already have safety glasses or goggles to protect their eyes. But are they scratch-resistant with UV protection and an anti-glare coating? A quality pair of safety glasses/goggles (or even just a new pair that isn’t scratched up from riding around in pockets) makes a nice stocking stuffer.

9. Pruning Shears

Do you know a farmer who’s using regular household scissors to dead-head flowers and perform other trimming around their garden? Increase their cutting power and make their life a little easier with a pair of bypass pruning shears.

10. Watering Wand

A watering wand is awesome when watering garden beds. You can easily control the intensity of the spray, and opting for a wand that’s a few feet long makes it possible to water underneath large plants without bending down (though a long wand might stick out of the stocking a bit).

Merry Christmas!

Categories
Animals Chicken Coops & Housing Farm & Garden Health & Nutrition Poultry Poultry Equipment

Chickens In Winter: Tips From A Minnesotan

When we decided to raise backyard laying hens, we chose breeds based on adult size (for our limited space) and cold hardiness. Here in Minnesota, our winters get very cold and sometimes we have negative-degree temperatures, as our daily high and double-digit negative-degree temperatures overnight, occasionally for weeks at a time. It can be brutal, to say the least. 

While I do feel bad for the hens in the dead of winter, one thing to remember is that chickens are covered in feathers. They have their very own built-in down blankets and acclimate well to the extreme weather we have in the north. 

Some chickens don’t mind the snow much, but mine do. It doesn’t matter if I cover a path in straw or sprinkle goodies through the snow, they don’t want anything to do with it. They just stand in the doorway of their poultry pen and watch me dancing around like a fool, trying to entice them out. 

Being that our winters can last five to six months, I feel saddened that my chickens are cooped up for so much of the year. Because of that, we get creative with ways to keep them warm, busy and stimulated.

Winter Preparations for Chickens

By October, we’re beginning to think about the daunting and fast-approaching first hard frost that we are sure to have. With that comes the process of tucking in our gardens for the winter and winterizing the coop for our chickens.

There are many methods for winterizing coops and runs, but the ultimate purpose is to block the hens from the harsh winds and snow. Winterizing will also allow proper ventilation so their coops don’t get moist, which would put them at higher risk of getting frostbite. 

chickens winter cold
Stephanie Thurow
Barrier

I have a bit of a unique setup for my hens, as the coop is inside of a secured poultry pen, which is the “chicken run.” I live in the Twin Cities, in an urban city, which requires us to keep our chickens confined unless we are physically outside while they roam. 

We line all four 8-by-8-foot sides of the coop with tarps, which we attach with zip ties. We use large logs from a tree we cut down to lay on top of the tarps (and bricks) to keep the tarps from blowing open. My co-author of Small-Scale Homesteading, Michelle Bruhn, reuses her shower curtain liners as barriers on her chicken run, which I think is a brilliant way to repurpose something that would otherwise become trash. 

The top of the pen has a waterproof cover that’s made to fit. So, between the top cover and the tarps on the sides, we can keep the snow out of the run (even when we have nearly record-breaking snowfall, such as this past winter—just under 90 inches in Minneapolis!). The perk to lining the run with tarps versus something more semipermanent is that on the milder days, the tarps can be pulled back for the hens to enjoy the fresh air and sunshine. 

Insulation

Spring through fall we line our coops with pine shavings, but in the winter, we get a bale of straw for our chickens. We fill the coop with a nice, thick layer of straw, and pack a nice barrier of straw around the chicken coop for additional insulation.

The rest of the bale gets scratched and moved around the chicken run in a deep layer so that the hens’ feet aren’t directly on the cold ground.

Supplement Heat

Many chicken-keepers don’t believe in supplementing heat. Since I’m only allowed a few hens where I live, though, I believe they benefit from the heat since they don’t have the luxury of gaining warmth by huddling together with a larger flock. We get “Arctic blasts” a couple times throughout the winter that can cause the temps to reach down to negative 40s with the windchill! 

Once the temperatures get down into the teens, we add a radiant heater inside the coop, which keeps the temperature about 10 degrees F warmer than the outside temperature. You don’t want too much of a temperature discrepancy because it can make it more difficult on the hens. They do acclimate naturally to the seasonal temperature changes. 

The radiant heater is my preference because I believe it’s the safest option for heating the coop, and it works best with the small coop space we have. Also, with just a 10-degree temperature difference, in the event of a power outage the hens would fare well even without the supplementary heat—without causing stress on their bodies.

Proper Ventillation

Proper ventilation for chickens is important year-round and especially in the winter. Though we do add tarps for the wind and barriers to add extra insulation, we want to keep proper ventilation so that moisture doesn’t build up in the coop. If there is excess moisture in the coop overnight, in the morning when the chickens go out into the cold, they’re at a higher risk for frostbite. 

Avoid Frostbite

On the very coldest days, we add a barrier to our chicken’s combs and wattles. This helps the chickens avoid getting frostbite. Once we open the coops to let them out for the day, we scoop them up in our arms and apply a generous coating of petroleum jelly (or coconut oil) over the aforementioned areas.

I don’t rub it in too much because I want it to create a waterproof barrier between their tender skin and the brutal cold temperatures. But I do try my best to thoroughly cover all parts.

Chickens that have small pea combs are now on the top of my list of preference when it comes to breeds for northern climates. The Ameraucana is the best cold-hardy breed I’ve owned thus far (and my sweetest, most snuggly hen). Chickens with the larger combs are at most risk. Frostbite hurts, and depending on severity, it’ll need to be treated for infection. So it’s best to avoid it at all costs. 

Water Heater

As always, fresh food and water is important. But how do we keep the water from turning into ice with these low temps? There are several ways, but my preferred method is to use a heated waterer. 

We have a 2-gallon, plug-in, nipple-style drinking system that has kept our water from freezing for going on four years now. We hang ours from the top of our poultry pen so that it’s off the ground and can easily be removed to refill. I do check the nipples each morning when I open the coop to make sure the water is flowing and the heater is still working. 

Pest Control

Rodents are drawn to the coop in the winter because they can find food and warmth. We check the coop for evidence of pests often and advise you to do the same. Check the corners of the coop for signs of droppings. If you find evidence, do not use poison or traps that could harm the chickens. 

Avoiding Winter Blues

Here are some great ways to keep your chickens happy in the darkest and coldest months.

  • Feed cracked corn in the evenings to keep their bodies digesting food overnight, which ultimately keeps the chickens warmer.
  • Buy them or make them treat blocks that are full of beneficial foods. Hint: There are great recipes in Small-Scale Homesteading, such as recipes for flock blocks and suet treats. 
  • Go out and snuggle them! Spend time with them. Knowing your chickens allows you to notice when something has gone awry before the symptoms get too far along.
  • Give them raw vegetable kitchen scraps and leafy greens. My chickens especially love when I surprise them with a head of cabbage.
  • Add in or alternate things for them to perch on. This keeps the coop dynamic and exciting.

Prepare for winter before it arrives. It’s an unruly guest, so the more ready you are to handle it, the easier it’ll be to get through. For the most part, cold-hardy chicken breeds will do just fine, but those really wet, snowy, subzero days and nights can be brutal.

Provide for your flock, and make sure they are physically healthy as well as mentally.


More Information

Molting Tips

A molt is an annual event for chickens more than a year old when their feathers fall out and are replaced with new ones. Normally this process takes place in the fall so that by winter your molting chickens are fully feathered and warm once again. However, some chickens don’t molt until later in the season. This is the case with one of my girls, Smarty Pants, our Gold Star hen. (She likes to wait until the temperatures take a deep dive before she begins her molt.) 

chickens winter cold
Stephanie Thurow

Because the greens in our yard and the insects that are usually found there have gone away with the frost, there isn’t as much of an opportunity for Smarty Pants to forage for the nutrients her body craves. 

Feathers are made up of mostly protein, so I always supplement my hen’s diet with extra protein during the molting process. At least once a week while my chickens are molting, I give them a mixture of the following ingredients: scrambled eggs cooked with coconut oil, crumbled eggshells, chopped peanuts, vitamin E oil, sesame seeds, baked fish, black oil sunflower seeds and soldier fly larvae. 

Because they love oats, sometimes I cook up oatmeal to mix within or cooked rice and often sprinkle in some dried herbs such as oregano, basil and mint.

This article originally appeared in the Nov./Dec. 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Farm & Garden Homesteading News Permaculture

Give Trees As Christmas Gifts With These Selections

Trees are thoughtful gifts to give around the Christmas season because they represent intentionality, future plans, and a love for beauty and our planet. Trees can be a very personal gift that represent knowing the recipient well enough to pick out something they would enjoy for years to come. Read below for a gift guide of how to pick out the right tree for the right person. 

Tabletop Trees

Giving indoor holiday trees is a great way to keep someone’s holiday spirit up. The aroma of the trees and the look of the spruces and pines are a great mood booster to enjoy all season long. Most of these trees can be purchased online and in box stores. 

Rosemary Topiaries

Many grocery stores and nurseries sell rosemary plants trimmed in a conical Christmas tree form. This is a great choice for for the chef in your life to keep in their kitchen and use for culinary purposes.

Lavender Trees

Lavender is another great tabletop option to be used in the kitchen throughout the season. The plant has culinary, medicinal and fragrance benefits for anyone who loves essential oils and herbs.

Norfolk Island Pine Tree

The Norfolk Island pine tree has all the beauty of an indoor live Christmas tree in a houseplant size. It is well suited to decorate around Christmas but can also live as an indoor tree year around. The tree does not like cold, though, so this is the perfect tree to bring the outdoors inside during the winter. This is a great gift for someone who loves traditional Christmas trees all year around. 

Lemon Cypress

The lemon cypress tree brings energy and freshness to any home. You can easily find it this time of year in a Christmassy cone shape, but with a zesty twist of lemon aroma. It’s perfect for a high-energy acquaintance with an appreciation for tradition. An added benefit: This tree can be repotted outdoors when it is warmer and continues to grow. 

evergreen evergreens gifts trees

Trees to Plant Outdoors

Any time the soil is workable, you can plant a tree. Christmas is still planting time for several zones, so don’t hesitate to find the right tree for the future in a size ready for the ground. These evergreens are wonderful to give at Christmastime because they maintain a Christmas tree look throughout the year.

Here a few few varieties of trees that make perfect Christmas gifts:

Carolina Sapphire Cypress Tree

The Carolina Sapphire Cypress tree is a great choice for gardeners of all levels. It is beautiful and unique looking, with gray, silvery, lacey foliage that maintains an evergreen look—so the recipient can always remember which tree you picked for them. They are low maintenance and adaptable to many soils, with very few pest issues. The tree can be planted almost any time of the year.  Best for Zones 6 through 9, this tree bring Christmas-looking trees to the landscape in warmer areas.

Colorado Blue Spruce

Easy to find this time of year, the Colorado blue spruce is a beautiful blue green Christmas tree you can enjoy year-round. Best in Zones 2 though 7, this tree thrives in colder climates. The Colorado blue spruce is instantly recognizable and easy to identify, and it’s a safe bet for traditional people in your life.

Canadian Hemlock

For the artist and advanced topiary pros, the Canadian hemlock is a great choice. It can be trimmed to any height and shape, and left untouched will reach a height of 40 to 70 feet, with a spread of 25 to 35 feet. It creates a fun challenge for creative gardeners who like to work with their trees. (Zones 3 through 7)

Always do your research on growing zones and soil requirements before gifting someone with a tree to plant outdoors. 

Another thoughtful way to give a tree to someone without strapping them with the responsibility of taking care of the tree is to purchase any number of trees to be planted in National Forests. This is a thoughtful gesture that shows respect for our planet. Several services sell the option to plant trees in someone’s honor, which is a truly special and unique gift to give.

Trees are beautiful, long-lasting and thoughtful gifts sure to make any recipient smile both during the holiday season and long after Christmas has passed. Recipients are sure to appreciate the time invested in researching and selecting the right one for them. 

Categories
Animals Chickens 101 Farm & Garden Poultry Poultry Equipment

Chicken General Store: Gifts, Decor & More!

Chicken Jam Spoon

This pewter chicken jam spoon (pictured above) features a hook to hang it from the rim of a jam jar, keeping fingers sticky-free.

Kids’ Chore Classic Muck Boots

chickens general store

The Kids’ Chore Classic from Muck Boots is a lightweight, 100 percent-waterproof boot featuring a durable quick-cleaning outsole, full neoprene bootie and easy on/off tabs. It includes a molded PU insert with memory foam and a bioDEWIX™ footbed to control odor and manage moisture. The boots come in a chicken print and sizes 8 to 13 (little kids) and 1 to 6 (big kids).   

Garlic Apple Cider Vinegar

This raw, unfiltered apple cider vinegar is infused with garlic. Stronger than what you’d buy in the grocery, this water additive is purported to boost overall chicken health by aiding digestion and providing bacteria that support development.   

HomeoPet Avian Nose Relief

chickens general store

HomeoPet Avian Nose Relief can help chickens that have runny noses, watery eyes, sneezing or low energy; it can also assist with beak rubbing. Easy to use with all-natural ingredients, simply dose medicine in their water. 

Reminder Magnet

This reminder magnet (which can also be hung with your own hardware) lets you turn the dial to indicate “in” or “out” so everyone in your family know if your chickens are in—or should be. 

MitesBGone

MitesBGone is an herbal additive for nesting boxes, coop bedding and dust baths that prevents and repels mites and lice. This sweet-smelling mix includes basil, garlic, peppermint, rosemary and spearmint. 

Chicken Catch-All Trays

chickens general store

Made from maple, walnut and cherry woods, buy these chicken catch-all trays for a flock afficionado to store anything from change to sweet treats. Personalization is available.   

Chicken Decoration

Top your tree, decorate a candlestick or lamp with this chicken decoration. The bendable wire on the back allows you to position, attach and wrap nearly anywhere.   

Under the Henfluence

chickens general store

Curl up with Under the Henfluence: Inside the World of Backyard Chickens and the People Who Love Them, by Tove Danovich, a journalist who discovers just how irresistible chicken personalities can be.   

This roundup of general store items originally appeared in the Nov./Dec. 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Farm & Garden Food Recipes

Recipe: ‘Tis The Season For Homemade Flavored Salt

In my cookbook WECK Home Preserving, I have a chapter of homemade recipes you can make that don’t require any canning or fermenting. Most are refrigerated or just stored at room temperature. Many of the recipes included make wonderful homemade gifts. 

If you’re a fan of making handmade holiday gifts, then consider making some flavored salt to gift this year. Nearly one year ago, I shared a recipe for how to make roasted garlic salt. Roasted garlic salt is my very favorite flavored salt to make. We use it nearly every day. But with the method I share below, you’ll be able to mix up any flavor combinations your heart desires.  

Flavored salt is a simple way to add a pop of flavor when cooking, baking and/or cocktail mixing. Some of our other preferred flavors include chive salt, rosemary salt and lime salt.  

Yield: 1/4 cup finished salt 

Ingredients 

  • 1/4 cup coarse kosher salt 
Seasoning Options 
  • 1 tsp. fresh organic citrus, finely grate the peel (wash and dry fruit first) 
  • 1 tsp. dried herbs, crushed  
  • 1 tsp. fresh ginger, finely grated 
  • 1 tsp. sriracha sauce 

Directions 

In a small bowl, mix together salt with the ingredient(s) of choice and stir well.  

Use a funnel to transfer the salt into a clean jar. If using fresh/wet ingredients, leave the cover off of the jar overnight. Stir the mixture again the following day, then add the lid and tightly secure it on.  

Allow the mixture to infuse with the flavors for a day or two, as the flavor will intensify as it infuses with the salt.  

Label and date the jar and keep out of direct sunlight.  

Notes 

The flavor intensity will weaken over time. This is why I make small batches as needed.  

If you want a finer salt, blend it down or break it down with a mortar and pestle.  

This recipe has been adapted and shared from Thurow’s book WECK Home Preserving with permission from Skyhorse Publishing, Inc. 

Categories
Animals Breeds Chickens 101 Farm & Garden Poultry

Can You Identify This Mystery Chicken Breed?

Chickens and other poultry members come in all sizes, shapes, colors and personalities. Nearly 400 recognized breeds and varieties of poultry exist, including large fowl and bantam chickensducksgeeseturkeys and guinea fowl. Using our illustration and a few selected hints, can you guess which mystery chicken breed we have depicted here?

Find out the answer below.  

Hints

  • This breed is one of the oldest breeds of domesticated poultry, originally brought to Great Britain by the Romans with Julius Caesar. 
  • This unique, very rare breed of chicken has a long body on short legs and a fifth toe. 
  • Although they’re known for meat production, they’re a dual-purpose breed. Females lay between 150 to 180 medium-sized cream eggs per year and are somewhat likely to set.
  • Their “nerdy” name comes from a market town in Surrey in South East England.
  • Murray McMurray carries the Silver Gray variety. Males are a combination of silvery white and black. Females are an ashy gray and white.

Mystery Breed Answer

The breed depicted above is the Dorking.

The Dorking is an ancient, dual-purpose chicken breed that comes in an array of colors not recognized by the American Poultry Association, including Black, Cuckoo and Speckled. 

Standard Dorking cocks weigh about 9 pounds and hens weigh 7 pounds. Single-combed bantam cocks weigh 36 ounces and hens weigh 32 ounces, while the rose-combed bantams weigh about 6 to 8 ounces less.

Roosters of the single-comb variety have large combs that stand upright. Hens’ medium-sized combs fall jauntily to one side. Rose-combed varieties have large rose combs that are square in the front and liberally dotted with spikes and small rounded points.

Dorkings are sweet, gentle chickens that bear confinement well, but they’re also outstanding foragers.

Learn more about Dorkings here. To purchase blue- and green-egg laying chicken breeds, visit Murray McMurray Hatchery online.

This mystery chicken breed feature originally appeared in the Nov./Dec. 2023 issue of Chickens magazine. Brought to you by Murray McMurray Hatchery, which provides the highest quality poultry and auxiliary products to its customers and has been a trusted, knowledgeable industry resource for more than 100 years. Whether you are an experienced or novice enthusiast, Murray McMurray is sure you’ll enjoy its wide selection of breeds and supplies to assist you with raising your flock! 

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Homesteading Large Animals

The Brave, Inquisitive Flock At Valais Blacknose Sheep

Sheep play a special role in Jane Lauber’s world. Based in Yarrambat in the state of Victoria in Australia, Lauber heads up the Valais Blacknose Sheep family farm, where she specializes in raising an irresistibly charming breed that she dubs the “world’s cutest sheep.”

Beyond the Valais Blacknose’s eye-catching looks, it turns out that establishing the heritage breed in Australia was something of an administrative trial—and Lauber’s original inspiration behind tracking down some Valais Blacknose came about after receiving heartwrenching family news.

We spoke to Lauber about her sheep-centric roots and the personality of the Valais Blacknose breed. We also got into the benefits of raising sheep in pairs.

Pocket Money Rearing

Growing up on a mixed farm in Devon, Lauber recalls earning her pocket money by caring for baby lambs who couldn’t be reared by their mothers.

“I absolutely adored it, and then I progressed to rearing the calves as well,” says Lauber. “I would be furious if dad didn’t wake me when he did the 2 o’clock round to check the sheep and I slept through to 6. He knew I needed to sleep to get to school, but I would always try and make the middle-of-the-night rounds.”

Sheep as Therapy

Lauber’s path to raising Valais Blacknose sheep began when she received the traumatic news that her daughter, Sue, was diagnosed with brain cancer. “We were sitting in the lounge room one afternoon, after her daily treatments, watching television when I saw a program about these sheep,” says Lauber. “I said to Sue we should get some for the 8 acres I had just bought.”

Lauber adds that after her daughter was first diagnosed, she sold all her business interests “to be with her, so these sheep just looked so adorable I thought it might be a nice interest for us.”

Overcoming Importing Issues

After Lauber set about attempting to import some of the “stunning sheep” into Australia from the United Kingdom, she quickly came across a series of tricky import regulations.

“We had to pass requirements of Department of Agriculture and all the quarantine requirements,” she explains. “You cannot import live sheep to Australia because we do not have some of the terrible diseases that other countries do. Having accepted that, I started the paperwork chase.”

Ultimately, Lauber found a workaround that took over three years and involved acquiring sheep in Switzerland and sending them to the United Kingdom “to have embryos made and also semen straws and then finally imported them into Australia.”

Getting to Know the Valais Blacknose

When it comes to the personality of Valais Blacknose sheep, Lauber says she wasn’t prepared for just how amiable and entertaining the breed is. “They are naturally so friendly and brave and inquisitive,” she says. “They just follow you around like a dog. They want you to pat them and play with them all day long.”

To that end, two of Lauber’s flock, Adam and Arnie, enjoy popping along to a local cafe on their leashes.

Good Things Come in Pairs

“I recommend these sheep to anyone who loves animals and wants a friendly, hardy and easy-to-handle pet,” says Lauber when advocating for the benefits of raising Valais Blacknose sheep. “I will only sell two together unless they already have another suitable pet. They are very expensive because it has cost a fortune for me to get them here—but it also means they should be well treated by new owners.”

Follow Valais Blacknose Sheep on Instagram.

Categories
Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Homesteading

Sheet Mulching (Excerpt, “Growing An Edible Landscape”)

This article was excerpted from Growing an Edible Garden by Gary Pilarchik, Chiara D’Amore, PhD, published by Cool Springs Press.


Sheet mulching is an inexpensive, natural way to prepare areas to become gardens. The basic idea is to use thick layers of natural materials (paper, cardboard, compost, etc.) to block sunlight from whatever plants you want to replace (grass, “weeds,” etc.). These will die off in a way that nourishes the health of your soil and creates the foundation for the plants you want to grow. In warmer areas, the best time of year to sheet mulch is the fall, so everything can decompose over the winter, or the spring right before things start to green up. It takes about six months for areas you have sheet mulched to be optimal for new planting if you need to dig into the ground.

Once you have identified the area you want to sheet mulch (along a foundation or fence, at the base of raised beds, etc.), the items you will need for the project include:

  • Lawn mower or weed wacker—to get plants down to a low level
  • Tools—wheelbarrow, shovel, rake, spading fork or garden knife, etc.
  • Biodegradable weed barrier—newspaper or cardboard
  • Brown mulch—leaves, straw, wood chips

You can likely obtain both the weed barrier and the brown mulch at your local recycling center or by asking community members to share their landfill-bound resources with you. You might even be able to borrow the tools. Once you have all of your supplies handy, including a source of water, the following are the steps for sheet mulching:

  1. Get low: Using your lawn mower or weed wacker (depending on what you are trying to get rid of), cut the existing plants down to the lowest level. You don’t want them to grow back, so cutting them all the way down is helpful to your process. Leave any grass clippings as part of the natural mulch, but if you have plants like thistle that you want to get rid of, be careful to remove seed heads so they don’t sprout right back. If you have woody plants that need to be removed from the area you are sheet mulching, pull them out by hand or dig them out with a shovel, trying to remove as much of the root base as possible. This is the time to get rocks or branches out of the area too so you have a smooth surface for the next step.
  2. Support the soil: If the area you are working in has compacted soil, you can use a spading fork to gently loosen the soil and make holes for nutrients to enter. You shouldn’t till or turn over your soil because it disrupts the soil ecosystem, which you are working to enhance with sheet mulching. If you are planning to put bigger plants into your new garden area (fruiting shrubs or trees), you can put them in at this time and then mulch around them so you aren’t digging through all the layers of the sheet mulch later.
  3. Layer away: The biggest part of the project is to create the layers of organic matter—the sheets, or the lasagna layers if it helps to think about it that way:
    1. Evenly spread about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of compost, leaves or straw on the ground. This will attract worms and beneficial insects to help loosen up the soil. Spray the whole area with water to help kickstart the process of decomposition and help the next layer stick.
    2. Lay out thick layers of newspaper or cardboard (at least 3/4 inch [2 cm] thick) over the entire area to create a weed barrier. It is really important to substantially overlap the edges of your paper product so there are no gaps that allow sunlight to get through and encourage your old ground cover to grow back. Also make sure that you have removed glossy pages from the newspaper and tape from cardboard (don’t use glossy or wax-covered cardboard at all), since these elements don’t decompose well. Spray the whole area with water again.
    3. Evenly cover the weed barrier layer with 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of compost, which will help the decomposition process and support soil health.
    4. Add an even layer of 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) of organic material such as leaves or wood chips. This layer helps ensure that light doesn’t penetrate to the ground, and it supports beneficial microorganisms. At this point your mulch layer should be about 8 inches (20 cm) tall. Water it one more time and wait!

If it is important to add some visual appeal to the area while the sheet mulching is doing its work, you can add a couple of inches of compost to the top and add small plants into the space, using a gardening knife to cut small holes in the paper layer so the roots have a way to access the soil.

Categories
Animals Chicken Coops & Housing Farm & Garden Poultry Poultry Equipment

Protecting Against Raccoons, A Poultry Super Predator

Raccoons are found throughout the United States and dwell in every setting, from rural farmland and woods to suburban areas, including New York City. Nicknamed the “super predator,” these masked creatures will do just about anything to get a meal, including scaling the tallest fences, unlatching and opening coop doors, and eating resting poultry through chicken wire.

Protecting our flocks from becoming victims of predator attacks should be one of the poultry owner’s biggest priorities. But how do you keep your flock from falling prey to your neighborhood raccoons?

Predator Proofing

The best way to prevent raccoons from attacking your flock is by predator-proofing your coop and run. Raccoons are extremely intelligent, take care to cover any opening larger than 1/2 inch.

When protecting your flock from raccoons, no measure is too extreme. So, let’s get started predator-proofing!

Climbing

Like children, raccoons love to climb, and they will use their human-like hands to scale any fence or tree. Raccoons aren’t scared of heights and will scale the highest fences for their meal. Covering the top of your run with 1/2-inch, 16-gauge PVC heavy wire will keep raccoons from gaining access to the run through the roof.

Another way to prevent raccoons from turning your run into their playground is by locking your birds in a coop or barn every day before dusk. If predators can’t see the poultry, they are less likely to try to gain access to the run. Even if poultry are locked in an enclosure at night, care should be taken to cover the top of the run with PVC-coated 1/2-inch, 16-gauge hardware cloth to protect the flock from daytime and nocturnal predators.

Hardware Cloth

Raccoons are excellent at chewing and biting through chicken wire, tearing a big enough hole to squeeze through, and gaining access to the coop and run. Another downside to chicken wire is that the 1-inch hole is big enough for a raccoon to reach their paw through, grab resting chickens and eat them through the fence.

Covering runs and any gaps larger than 1/2 an inch with PVC-coated 1/2-inch, 16-gauge hardware cloth is the best way to prevent raccoons from chewing and biting the wire or grabbing unsuspecting hens. Also, cover any window or screens with 1/2-inch hardware cloth to prevent raccoons from ripping screens to gain access to the coop or barn.

Cement Floors

While raccoons are less skilled at digging than they are with climbing and chewing, they can still gain access to the coop or run by digging underneath the perimeter. Building a structure with a cement floor or purchasing a cement slab to rest your coop on is one of the best ways to protect your flock.

With a sturdy cement floor, there is no need to worry about predators digging or chewing through the floor to gain access to your flock. Even though many poultry keepers prefer more cost-effective wood flooring, the peace of mind with a cement floor is worth every penny.

Predator Skirts

Attaching PVC-coated 3/4-inch 16-gauge hardware cloth to the bottom outside perimeter of your coop and run will prevent digging predators from accessing your flock. These predator skirts are one of the best ways to keep raccoons out and your flock safe.

Lock the Doors

Unlike any other predator, raccoons are so intelligent they can unlock and open coop and barn doors. Many poultry owners prefer to use something different than bolt and hook-and-eye locks, as raccoons can easily open these fasteners. Using padlocks to secure all doors, including pop holes and nesting boxes, is the only way to prevent raccoons from accessing the coop through a door.

Goodbye Raccoons!

Even though raccoons are one of the biggest threats to backyard flocks, extreme measures to eradicate them from your backyard are not usually necessary. However, some deterrents can help deter them from visiting your backyard.

Wind Chimes

Raccoons dislike wind chimes, so hanging some around or near your coop and run is one of the best ways to deter raccoons from visiting your coop and run.

Dogs

Having your dog tag along with you as you do chores is another way to deter raccoons. If a raccoon smells that a dog frequents the area, they are less likely to visit.

Predator Urine

Spreading predator urine around the perimeter of the coop or run can prevent raccoons from wanting to inhabit the area.

Avoiding Common Mistakes

Unfortunately, many chickens fall prey to predator attacks due to several common chicken-keeping practices, including:

  • Allowing poultry to free-range, especially at dawn or dusk
  • Failing to lock poultry in a predator-proofed coop and run at night
  • Leaving feeders and spilled feed in the run or coop at night

A raccoon attack can happen during daylight or at night, so always be on your guard. Protecting your flock from a raccoon attack is possible with some know-how and common sense. Remember, no protection is too extreme when protecting your flock from raccoons and other predators.