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Animals Chickens 101 Farm & Garden Health & Nutrition Poultry

How To Handle End-Of-Life Decisions For Chickens

chickens end-of-life
THESHOTS.CO/AdobeStock

Though poultry-keepers are often taught how to ward off predators and how to keep their chickens healthy, end-of-life issues (and options) are often left out of the chicken-care conversations. However, being able to recognize the signs when chickens are ill or close to an end-of-life scenario is of critical importance—especially if other members of the flock may be at risk. How keepers manage end-of-life events and how chickens are handled if they pass is also instrumental to flock biosecurity.

Healthy vs. Unhealthy 

Though the lifespan of chickens can vary widely by breed and care, a good estimate is that most hens will live between 4 and 8 years. However, it’s not unusual for backyard birds that have no genetic issues to live to between 10 and 12 years old. 

A healthy bird should be alert, with bright eyes, combs and wattles. Its nostrils should be clean and feathers should be smooth. The bird should stand upright and be interested in its surroundings, as well as eat, drink and produce waste regularly.

It follows, then, that an unhealthy bird would be the opposite of those listed previously. It may cough or sneeze, or you might be able to hear it breathing or gasping. The bird may shake its head and have discharge from its eyes or nose, and its wings may look dirty. Sick chickens tend to wipe their nostrils on their wings. Its face or wattles may be swollen, or it may have a bluish cast to its face.

Any of these can indicate that the bird has a respiratory infection. 

Though most of these signs are obvious, a sick chicken may offer only subtle—if any—clues that it isn’t feeling well. It may hide, not eat well, have lower egg production, stand oddly, have unusual droppings or be lethargic. Any of these symptoms warrant a closer look at your chicken. 

It can be a challenge for a backyard bird owner to recognize signs of disease as chickens are quite good at hiding when they’re ill, especially during an end-of-life issue. “Unless the chicken is outwardly sick, you may not know they are dying,” says Jacquie Jacob, poultry extension associate in the department of animal and food sciences at University of Kentucky.

“Chickens can take a lot of pain without showing signs. The outward symptoms [the chicken is showing] will depend on the cause of the heath problem. For example, if they have a reproductive blockage or some cause of abdominal fluid buildup, the chicken will walk like a penguin. In general, the first sign of [any chicken] illness is not eating.” 

Jacob notes that not eating could also be the result of having no available water. Chickens won’t eat if they can’t drink. 

Laura Сrazy/Adobe Stock

Isolate, Hydrate, Diagnose

So what should you do with an unhealthy hen?

Isolate

Removing an unwell chicken from the flock will prevent it from being bullied by other flock members and protect the flock from what could be a contagious disease. It will also allow for closer observation of the ill bird. The chicken should be moved to a warm environment that offers protection from predators and other flock members. 

Hydrate

While offering a chicken water is helpful, a sick chicken may require more intense management. Water may need to be provided by spoon or eyedropper to encourage her to drink. A chicken that can’t drink cannot regulate the most basic of needs, like adjusting body temperature or eliminating waste. 

Diagnose

If possible, try to determine what ails the chicken. Though many chicken owners don’t have access to a veterinarian who is comfortable with birds, a simple internet search of trusted websites may shed some light on the problem. However, the cause of the illness may remain undetermined.

“Unfortunately, most diseases [in chickens] are diagnosed by necropsy, which is not useful,” Jacob says. 

If a Chicken Doesn’t Rally 

If a chicken goes more than a day or two without improving, Jacob notes that euthanasia may be the way to go. A chicken sick for that long rarely returns to full health. Though certainly not enjoyable to think about, all animal owners—including poultry owners—should have a plan in place should the animal become sick or injured beyond repair. Many backyard flock owners don’t have veterinarians who can assist with euthanasia, so the goal is to end the chicken’s life as quickly and as painlessly as possible.  

For most hobby enthusiasts, this involves either wringing (not breaking) the neck or decapitation. Quickly and forcefully wringing the neck causes cervical dislocation, where the spinal cord severs and recoils, causing brain damage (unconsciousness). This is the most humane method of euthanasia for chickens at home, Jacob says. The most important part in the act is to make the bird unconscious, meaning the bird can feel no pain. Anything that happens after this (death) is moot.  

Death by decapitation is often more difficult for backyard flock owners, though both decapitation and wringing the neck can be challenging for a chicken owner to do. If either of these end-of-life options seem unattainable, reach out to other owners of chickens in the area to see if they may be willing to assist when the time comes. Though difficult to think about, it’s imperative that a plan be in place, so the chicken doesn’t suffer.

If a deceased chicken is on the property—either because it was discovered or killed—something must be done with the carcass. If a hen is found dead, immediately remove it from the coop or run if other chickens have access to the body. Though it may seem like overkill, donning protective gloves to remove a feathered friend from the coop is necessary for effective biosecurity to keep the other chickens safe.  

kozorog/Adobe Stock

Disposal 

Proper disposal of a chicken carcass directly relates to the cause of death. Unfortunately, unless there are outward signs (often of predation or disease), it can be difficult to know what caused the chicken’s death. 

If an infectious disease of any kind is suspected, chicken owners (even hobby poultry owners) should reach out to an extension agent, local veterinarian, the state veterinarian or the USDA to determine what should be done with the carcass. USDA can be reached at 866-536-7593. It should be reiterated that a chicken found dead should not be consumed.

A chicken that has died of natural—or at least unknown—causes can still be a bit of a conundrum as disposal of animal carcasses can vary by county and city. To get an idea of what is acceptable, reach out to a local extension agent or to the municipal waste station for guidance.

Options for Disposal

Burying

Though a chicken might seem small in comparison to larger livestock like horses and cows, there may still be local laws regarding burying it, often with regards to the depth of the local water table, location of water sources like ponds and streams, or how many structures are on the land. Additionally, the location of where electric, gas, water or cable lines can also be a concern when attempting to bury a chicken (if unsure where these are located on the property, call the respective companies before digging the hole). 

If it’s determined that burying is appropriate, bury the hen several hundred feet (or as far as possible) from the coop where other chickens reside. This is of particular importance if parasite overloads, mites or lice are suspected to have played a role in the chicken’s demise. Chickens are omnivores and as such will scavenge a carcass if available, potentially ingesting worms or other parasites. 

The hole should be at minimum 3 feet deep and the soil should be tightly packed around the body to prevent predators like raccoons and dogs from smelling and unearthing the body. 

schankz/Adobe Stock
Burning

Burning a dead chicken in a firepit or burn pile is an acceptable means of getting rid of the carcass. Though it will smell unpleasant, this method will ensure that no parasites or diseases transfer to other chickens or wild birds. 

Sending to a Landfill

Though often not an ideal resting spot for a favorite hen, in many areas of the United States, urban and suburban waste facilities allow for dead animals (including chickens) to be placed in the trash. Often the body must be double- or triple-bagged, so it’s wise to find out what’s acceptable ahead of time. 

Composting

Chickens that reach an end-of-life event due to natural causes can be added to a household composter, which must be properly designed and managed to minimize odor and destroy pathogens. A dead chicken provides nitrogen, so it must be balanced with carbon materials like paper, straw or cornstalks. The correct amount of moisture in the composter is critical for proper breakdown of the carcass and to avoid any unpleasant smells. When done correctly, composting should be completed in about a week after adding the dead chicken. 

Cremating

Some veterinary offices will offer cremation services for a fee. Determine beforehand if the ashes will be received or will remain with the clinic for disposal. This means of removal will incur a fee.

Incinerating

Incineration at a university or state veterinary diagnostic laboratory (often after necropsy to determine cause of death) is the preferred method of carcass disposal if disease is suspected. 

Though the loss of a chicken can be emotional, having a plan (or plans) for how to deal with the body can alleviate some of the immediate stress, allowing owners time and space to grieve. 

More Information

Vaccination & Medication 

While owners of other livestock are used to vaccinating their animals, backyard poultry owners are often not afforded that option to prevent illness for a variety of reasons, including lack of access to veterinarians familiar with poultry, expense or negligence of disease susceptibility. 

Poultry owners should consider vaccination if they show their poultry or if they routinely introduce new birds to the flock, either from auctions or other sources. Additionally, if owners often allow unfamiliar people to handle birds, or if the flock has a history of disease, immunization should be considered. A veterinarian can provide guidance on which vaccines to administer based on the flock’s location and susceptibility.

Though respiratory diseases are common in poultry, they’re often nonspecific in backyard flocks and come on as the seasons change. Often birds will cough or sneeze, but they’ll continue to eat and drink. 

Medications are often unnecessary, and the illness will resolve on its own in seven to 10 days. However, if treatment is desired, most birds can be treated with a tetracycline antibiotic, which can shorten symptom length by about half.

It’s important that only medications approved for laying hens be used and that their directives for administration are followed, says Jacquie Jacob, poultry extension associate in the department of animal and food sciences at University of Kentucky. Though these medications were previously available over the counter, they now require a veterinarian’s prescription to obtain.

This article originally appeared in the November/December 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Equipment Farm & Garden Homesteading

5 Questions To Consider When Buying A Pole Saw

pruning pole saw
Daniel Johnson

Are you thinking of adding a pole saw to your tool shed? If you regularly find yourself pruning trees, then don’t hesitate to make the investment.

From selectively pruning fruit trees to removing dead lower branches from tall coniferous trees, a pole saw allows you to trim otherwise out-of-reach branches without using a ladder.

Here are five questions to ask when shopping for a pole saw.

1. Powered or Manual?

The biggest decision to make is whether to opt for a power saw or a manual saw.

A manual saw is simply a saw blade at the end of the pole. You’ll slice through branches by pulling and pushing the pole back and forth in a sawing motion. In contrast, a powered saw uses a gasoline engine or battery to power a chainsaw that does the cutting for you.

The simplicity of a power saw is appealing—you don’t need chain oil, and there isn’t an engine to maintain or a battery to charge. I use a manual pole saw, and it’s pleasantly lightweight. But a manual pole saw (like any manual saw) can be tiring to operate, so users who have a lot of branches to trim may want to opt for a powered model.

2. Gas or Electric?

If you’re looking to buy a powered pole saw, you’ll have to decide whether you want a gas or electric model. Gasoline engines offer lots of power and can be quickly refueled if your engine runs dry on the job, but like any small engine they require maintenance, put out exhaust fumes, and are noisy to use.

An electric pole saw gets away from those negatives, but you may sacrifice some power, especially on smaller models. And if the battery runs out, you’ll have to interrupt your project while the battery recharges. You may want to invest in multiple batteries to alleviate that concern.

3. How Long Is the Pole?

The whole point of a pole saw is to be able to trim high branches while standing securely on the ground. So how high are the branches you need to trim? Measure the height before buying a pole saw to ensure the model you purchase is long enough.

The length of the pole will likely be adjustable, but the maximum length is the number you’re mainly interested in. If you’ll be cutting branches 16 feet above the ground, an 8-foot pole saw is going to be too short, but a 13-foot model should suffice (since you’ll be holding the saw several feet above the ground).

4. Can I Trade the Saw for Other Attachments?

Some power pole saws are more versatile than first meets the eye. You can remove the chainsaw from the end and attach other tools instead—for example, a string trimmer or hedge trimmer. This way, a single gasoline engine or electric motor can be used to power multiple tools, saving you money and maintenance.

5. Does It Come with a Built-in Pruner?

My manual pole saw has a bonus feature: a bypass pruning lopper triggered by pulling a rope from ground level. It’s a quick and easy way to trim small branches—all I have to do is hook the pruner over the branch and pull the rope. It’s less tiring to use than the saw, and it works great when reaching high to trim flexible branches that won’t saw easily, as you might when pruning the top of a fruit tree.

Keep these five questions in mind, and you’ll soon find the perfect saw for your tree-pruning needs.

Categories
Farm & Garden Homesteading Projects

Protect Wood Utensils With This DIY Spoon Butter Recipe

wood spoons spoon butter recipe
Michelle Bruhn

As more of us join the homesteading world, we’re making investments in better quality and longer lasting items for our homes. I know I’d rather stir a soup made with my homegrown veggies with a non-toxic, sustainable wooden spoon than a plastic, throw-away item. 

This also means that many of us are learning how to take care of natural products for the first time. And wood naturally dries out over time, so we must do something to keep it from cracking.  

Enter spoon butter, the simple mixture of oil and beeswax to help condition and seal our wooden kitchen tools and cutting boards. While this recipe has just two ingredients, both those ingredients need to be top quality!  

Ingredient 1: Wax

I love using local beeswax for this and usually have some extra around for making herbal salves and body butters.  

Beeswax is an inert substance on its own, so it doesn’t have any specific benefits when consumed directly. Beeswax is produced by specialized glands on honeybees. They mix it with their saliva and other enzymes. This process creates an antibacterial, adhesive substance that not only holds together bee hives but is the perfect thickener for so many safe and healthy homemade products.   

You can also use carnauba wax, which comes from the leaves of a type of palm tree, if you want to keep a vegan kitchen. Just make sure it is pure wax with no additives.  

Ingredient 2: Oil 

There are a few different oils that do well as conditioners. The main thing is to keep them 100 percent pure and organic. You’ll also want to stay away from mineral oils as they tend to be processed in a way that can leech toxins over time.  

I have used both coconut and sunflower oil for this recipe. I prefer coconut oil for the smell and way it leaves the spoons and cutting boards. I have also seen flaxseed oil recommended for this project. Always look for unrefined options if possible.  

Recipe 

Use one part beeswax to three parts coconut oil (or 2.5 parts sunflower oil). 

Heat the beeswax in a double boiler until just melted. I make my double boiler from a Pyrex measuring cup hung over the edge of a pot, just make sure at least half the measuring cup is under water to heat well. Keeping the melting process low and slow helps keep the intrinsic benefits of the raw beeswax. 

Once warmed and melted, mix together. This recipe will cool to a paste-like consistency. Wait until fully cooled to the place lid on.  

You can slather on a thick layer and let it set overnight, wiping off any excess in the morning. I keep my jar of spoon butter handy and use it on utensils as needed. But I also try to condition all my wood pieces at least once every winter.  

Store the jar of spoon butter in a cool, dark place (I keep mine in my pantry) and it will last 12 or more months. 

Enjoy! I love being able to use this natural product to keep my homestead kitchen running smoothly.

—Michelle Bruhn,
Forks in the Dirt

Categories
Animals Beginning Farmers Farm & Garden Homesteading Large Animals

Cattle Crazy? Take Your Bovine Obsession To The Next Level

cattle
fottoo/Adobe Stock

Are you obsessed with cattle? Black and white or a beautiful fawn color, a full-sized dairy cow or a small Dexter—do you love them all? Do you jump on the chance to buy almost any cow print item you find? Do you collect cow pictures and items to put in your house? Do you look for people to talk about cows with? Do you get over-the-moon excited at the thought of purchasing a new cow?

If you answered “yes” to many of these questions … you might be cow-obsessed. 

But don’t worry, I’m not here to convert you. In fact, I’m here to help you with your cattle obsession. Stick with me pal, and I’ll give you some suggestions on just how you can feed and grow that obsession. 

Here are some fun and wacky suggestions (mixed in with some serious ones) for those longing for the day they can bring their first cow or calf home.

Go Vintage!

If you love to shop and collect cow-related pieces, why not go skip the mainstream home decor stores and instead hit the flea markets and thrift shops for some unique items? Look for not only actual cow pieces but vintage pictures such as counted cross-stitch scenes.

I have a picture hanging by my kitchen door right now that came from my grandma and features a group of cows on it. Look for something unique and that’s not being sold in mass quantity at a big name store—a piece that not everybody else is putting up a copy of in their home!  

Make a Plan

I can be rather chicken-obsessed at times and recently I’ve been enjoying browsing through breeds on a hatchery website while I pick out which ones I hope to order come spring. 

When it comes to cattle though, it’s a much larger scale operation than a handful of chickens! It’s best to have a plan in mind before you actually purchase and start raising them. Even if you’re not intending to purchase cattle anytime soon, it can be helpful to at least iron out a few basics of what you’re looking for from your herd. It can be not only fun to daydream about, but the more time you spend processing and planning for it now, the smoother it might hopefully go in the future!

Keep in mind some of these basic questions:

  • What is the purpose for your animal? Meat, dairy or even just companionship? 
  • How many head can you reasonably handle?
  • What kind of facilities do you have for them? 
  • Will they have adequate space to graze? 
  • What will you feed them?
  • How will you doctor and treat them when they fall ill or injured? 

Pick a Name 

Don’t laugh (okay, fine, laugh if you want to), but keep in mind that when you walk out to the pasture and holler this name, other people may or may not be around you. It might be a good idea to give the name a little extra consideration before you just label your bovine friend with it for the rest of their life on your farm. Of course, it’s also good to wait to fully pick one out until you can look at the animal and really see what fits its personality.

Here are some cow-friendly name suggestions:

  • Speckles
  • Spot
  • Mabel
  • Gerty
  • Shorty
  • Sugar
  • Bella
  • Sweetie
  • Betsy
  • Whitey 
  • Socks
  • Fuzzy

Begin Collecting Supplies

Years ago, I was horse crazy. I didn’t even have a horse, but I had old halters and some bits that I had managed to get at a farm auction or somewhere. I had them lined up in an old shed, just dreaming of the day when I could finally have a horse. And you know what? I did eventually get one!

While I don’t know that I ever actually used any of those old pieces, having them around was one way that I could be a little closer to my own horse. 

But if you have plans to own cattle in the future, what if you started preparing for them now? Why not start picking up a few supplies here and there at reasonable prices (and maybe even some bargains!)? As you check out local farm auctions or places where farm supplies can be found, keep your eyes open for things like:

  • Good feed buckets 
  • Feeders 
  • Large halter and lead rope (if needed)
  • Fencing supplies
  • Calf bottles 
  • Sorting sticks

Check out the Books

There is so much information to be found in quality livestock books. Even if you just pick a topic that interests you and start reading through it, take some time to educate yourself on things that you don’t fully understand.

Learn the basics. Check out this list for some reading suggestions.

Find a Friendly Cattleman or Homesteader

If you can’t buy a cow right now, see if there’s someone local that would let you come to their ranch or homestead. Get a chance to watch the herd of cattle and ask some questions. Soak in all of the knowledge and experience you can!

One of these days, you might just step out the back door to find your bovine friend grazing contentedly in the back pasture. Until then, keep learning and daydreaming abut cattle. Do your best to make the most of your time now, before the chores start! 

Categories
Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Homesteading Permaculture

With Ecosystem Design, Always Start With Biodiversity

sustainable ecosystem design
cooperr/Adobe Stock

 Sustainable garden design, regenerative gardening, permaculture design, natural gardening … all of these practices are rooted in observing nature and build garden strategies by working within ecosystems. My work is in ecosystem design, which is about understanding the natural principles that make wild and natural landscapes (ecosystems), such as woodlands and meadows, successful. These wild systems are regenerative and resilient, helping to self-regulate fertility and pests while creating a wealth of resources that are sustainable into the future.

We can mimic (or emulate) these natural principles in our gardens and properties through ecosystem design to help us grow sustainably. These principles are applied to the context of your typical modern garden and landscape as efficient and sustainable gardening practices.

When we observe wild ecosystems—such as woodlands, grasslands or wetlands—we can see similarities (and natural principles) in all of them. These can guide our design for gardens, landscapes and farms. We will look at the major ecosystem principles that are found around the world in wild ecosystems and discuss how these translate to garden practices.

Ecosystem Design Basics

Some of the obstacles gardeners face include those pervasive issues of weeds, pests, water and yields. Most gardens are also organized for short-term productivity. Annual inputs of fertility and regular irrigation during times of drought are necessary to keep the garden growing.

Ecosystem design is about creating a garden that is self-regulating and healthy. A garden with soil that is alive with beneficial organisms is best able to fix, store and release nutrients on its own (without adding more fertilizer). Similarly, an ecosystem approach to garden soil management makes your soil more able to hold water in droughts as well as drain water better in flood-type rain events.

But ecosystem design is not just about soil. These sustainable gardening practices also diversify backyards yields, ensuring you have more variety in your garden—more than just annuals. These practices emphasize maximizing a property’s square footage with a layered approach to design that includes canopies of fruit trees with berries and annual vegetables growing in between.

Whether you want to apply ecosystem design to your annual vegetable garden, a perennial orchard or some integration of both, these sustainable gardening practices in your backyard are sure to increase your yields and reduce weed, water and pest issues.

Using ecosystem design for gardening is about the principles found in permaculture and natural gardening, not simply purchasing products labeled “sustainable” or “green.” Over my next few articles, we’ll look at six of the most important of these principles, starting with biodiversity.

Biodiversity Is Key

All ecosystems are biodiverse, meaning they have many different life forms that occupy the landscape. As gardeners we can integrate biodiversity into our gardens in a number of ways.

For starters, we can maximize underutilized spaces to achieve more diversity. As an example, we can use ground covers like creeping thyme in our paths between raised garden beds. We can also include various herbs and ground covers as an understory under fruit trees. Ideal flowers and herbs include lemon balm, chives and echinacea.

Increasing the diversity in our garden means we don’t put all our eggs in one basket (so to speak) if there is a pest problem. We are less likely to have pest issues when there is more diversity to confuse pests and act as a habitat for predatory insects.

Biodiversity is a critical principle for sustainable ecosystem design, but it’s just one of a handful of cornerstone practices. Stay tuned for future articles covering more key concepts to practice in your ecosystem gardens.

Categories
Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Food Recipes

Golden Beet & Turmeric Kvass Brings Better Gut Balance

beet kvass recipe
posh/Adobe Stock

With holiday gatherings and events at every turn, it seems sweets, savory foods and boozy cocktails are almost always available. If you’re anything like me, you may find yourself indulging a bit more often this time of year. That being said, it’s important to keep your gut health in mind.  

I personally try to eat or drink something fermented every day. Having kvass on hand is an easy way to keep up with good behavior. Aside from the healthy belly bacteria that kvass offers, beets and turmeric are known for reducing inflammation, which I feel everyone can benefit from (especially this time of year). 

Yield: 1 quart jar 

Ingredients 

  • 3 to 4 small tender organic golden beets, cut into 2-inch chunks (skin on) 
  • 4 inches or so of fresh organic turmeric (skin on), coined 
  • 1 tsp. coarse kosher salt 
  • Water, as needed 

Instructions 

Wash beets, scrub well, trim off ends and greens, and cut into uniform chunks, about 2-inch squares. Scrub turmeric well, cut into coins about 1/2-inch thick. Fill a clean quart jar with beets, ginger and salt (the jar should be at least half full). Fill with cold water, leaving 1 to 2 inches of headspace (top of the water level to the rim of the jar). Stir well.  

If you have a small fermentation jar weight, add it to the jar to keep the ingredients completely submerged under the brine. Remove any small pieces of produce that float up to the top of the brine, as produce above the brine will increase the risk of the ferment spoiling. Wipe off the rim of the jar with a clean dampened towel. Add the canning jar lid and tightly screw on the ring. 

Fermentation 

This is a four- to-six-day ferment. Ferment at room temperature, ideally between 60 and 75 degrees F (15 to 23 degrees C) and keep out of direct sunlight.  

Check on the ferment daily to make sure that the brine is covering all the produce. If the produce has floated above the brine level, use a clean utensil to push it back below the brine or scoop it out. 

Burp the jar daily. Just unscrew the lid briefly and tighten it back on to allow any built-up gas to release (and avoid possible jar breakage or the ferment from overflowing). 

This is an active ferment. Foam-like bubbling after a day or two of fermentation is totally normal and a sign that things are fermenting along just as they should be. 

Ferment until the beet kvass liquid turns to a golden color. Taste test to determine completion (the flavor should be tangy and earthy). Once done to your liking, transfer to the refrigerator and enjoy within  three weeks.  

To Serve 

Beet kvass is best chilled. Drink a small glass between meals to aid in digestion.  

Side Notes 

If you do not have a glass jar weight, you can improvise by using an easily removable small food-grade glass dish that fits inside the jar. Or, if you have a smaller glass canning jar that can fit into the mouth of the jar you are fermenting with, you can use that to keep the produce pushed under the beet kvass brine.  

Categories
Crops & Gardening Equipment Farm & Garden Permaculture

Challenge Of Irrigating In Winter (Excerpt, “The Winter Market Gardener”)

irrigation irrigating winter cold market gardener
images courtesy of New Society Publishers

The following excerpt is from The Winter Market Gardener (New Society Publishers, October 2023) by Jean-Martin Fortier and Catherine Sylvestre.

In winter, plant growth slows, water uptake tapers off, and the work related to crop irrigation winds down. That’s the good news. The bad news is that irrigation in very cold weather is a real challenge in unheated greenhouses. Water freezes in conduits, which can lead to significant damage (e.g., valves bursting or irrigation lines freezing). To successfully supply water to unheated shelters, the easiest solution is to install an antifreeze hydrant inside the greenhouse (also known as a frost-free hydrant or anti-siphon faucet). This faucet needs to be connected to a water line buried at a depth of 5 feet (1.5 m), lying below the frost line. When we open the valve, water rises in the pipe and we can irrigate crops despite below-freezing temperatures. When we close the valve, the water drops back down into the pipe, below the frost line. This freeze-proofing feature keeps water from sitting in the valve, which is the main cause of frost damage in an irrigation system. Installing this valve requires excavation work, but it is essential. When irrigating an unheated shelter without an antifreeze hydrant, valves must constantly be purged—and the threat of damage is always looming.

irrigation winter cold market gardener

The type of irrigation system you select, either drip or sprinkler, needs to take into account the likelihood of freezing temperatures. If the shelter is unheated, drip irrigation is the best choice. Make sure to install connectors properly to prevent water from pooling and stagnating. Irrigation lines in a drip system can handle some expansion in below-freezing temperatures and are less likely to break. Easy to maintain, the drip system is a highly effective solution for many vegetables. It also has the advantage of delivering water right onto the ground, keeping the plant foliage dry. This is particularly relevant in winter, when relative humidity tends to be quite high.

For direct-seeded crops sown in multiple beds at once (still in an unheated shelter), drip is not an optimal irrigation system because it’s impossible to lay out the lines before the seeds germinate. In this case, after the seeding, sprinklers must be set up to water the beds until the crop germinates and becomes established. To avoid any frost damage, irrigation lines must be purged and/or stored in a heated place, such as a garage, after being used.

In minimally heated greenhouses, the threat of freezing temperatures is nonexistent and equipment damage is less likely. In this case, choosing between drip or sprinkler irrigation will depend instead on the crop and planting date. This is a significant advantage provided by minimally heated greenhouses.

irrigation winter cold market gardener

When irrigating different crops, knowing when to water and for how long depends largely on the weather and the time of year. In general, especially in unheated shelters, no irrigation is needed in December and January, when day length is at its shortest. At this time, soil moisture retention is high, and the plants, which are in a phase of extremely slow growth, draw very little water up through their roots. When February rolls around and day length increases, it’s time to come out of hibernation and make sure the soil doesn’t get too dry. We monitor the crops and feel the soil several times a week. A moisture meter can also help determine if a bed is ready to be watered.

Another crucial factor to consider when watering winter crops is the relationship between irrigation and a plant’s frost resistance. Plants with a slight water deficit have been shown to better tolerate freezing temperatures because with less water in their cells, they are less likely to form ice crystals in below-freezing conditions. Since crystals are deadly, it’s important to consider this when establishing an irrigation strategy before a major frost event. It’s always safer to tend towards watering too little rather than too much, especially when nights drop below freezing in December and January.

Categories
Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Recipes

Potatoes Are A Passion At Irish Eyes

Irish Eyes
Irish Eyes

Greg A Lutovsky is passionate about potatoes. After originally toying with turning an old sandbox into a raised bed in a bid to grow corn, radishes and tomatoes when he was a kid, Lutovsky’s interest in seeds has turned into a role as farm manager at Irish Eyes, a seed purveyor based in Ellensburg, Washington, that’s focused on potatoes.

“In my 20s, being ginger, Irish and loving potatoes, I gravitated toward seed potato farming,” explains Lutovsky of his path. “There is no other veggie that is so flexible you can grow it just about anywhere and return such large yields for a small space.”

Taking a minute out from farm manager duties, we spoke to Lutovsky about the glory of Kennebecs and the changing demands of the potato seed market. We also got into a recommended way to grill potatoes.

Learning a Love for Seeds

Lutovsky’s love for seeds was formed during his early years growing up in Georgia. “In the third grade when we would eat watermelon outside, we would spit the seeds between the cement pad and mobile home underpinning,” he recalls.

“Low and behold, after a week I noticed the seeds had sprouted. Before you knew it I had blossoms and now small little watermelons. I would check the watermelon plants every day before school and immediately afterwards. After a few weeks, I came home and found a watermelon so large I couldn’t even pick it up. I was hooked!”

It turns out, Lutovsky’s moment of wonder came with a little human help. “Later on in life my dad came clean,” he says. “He told me the day after I left for school he removed my little watermelon and replaced it with a 30 pound watermelon. Dad and I had a good laugh when he told me in my 20s.”

Potato Seed Trends

When it comes to picking up on trends in the potato world, Lutovsky says that demand has rocketed since his early days at Irish Eyes.

“Gardeners did not have much access to seed potatoes other than a few old standards,” he recalls, mentioning the Red Pontiac, Kennebec and Russet varieties. “Doing research I found there were thousands of different varieties of potatoes, so I started offering Yellow Finn and a new potato called Yukon Gold. They became immediately popular with garden centers and home gardeners.

“Now the garden market has developed into yellows and something fun or different like fingerlings.”

Predicting 2024 Potato Preferences

Gazing toward next year, Lutovsky predicts that “yellows like Yukon Gold, Yukon Gem and the heat-tolerant Jelly will hold the top spots.”

Lutovsky adds that two relatively new varieties—the purple-skinned Huckleberry Gold and the yellow-hued Montana—are also likely to become top five seed sellers. “Both of these potatoes are low carb and friendly to diabetics.”

Kennebecs, Caribes & Viking Purples

When it comes to personal potato favorites, Lutovsky picks based on how they’re going to be used. “When I make French fries, I choose Kennebec hands down,” he explains. “For lumpy mashed potatoes, it’s a tie between Caribe and Viking Purple. For a breakfast or baked potato, I would chose Arizona Gold, a new release for 2024.”

However, pushed to anoint one variety as victor, Lutovsky plumps for the Huckleberry Gold. “It’s not the best for any one purpose, but it’s the best for every purpose,” he says, noting how its great yield and storage properties make it a top choice for baking, frying, mashing and using in hash browns.

Break Out the Grill

Lutovsky is a big advocate for utilizing the grill when cooking potatoes. “My favorite way to fix a potato is to barbecue it on your grill,” he says. “Slice half-inch slabs, cover them with oil so the seasonings stick, season it with garlic and your favorite seasonings and grill it on medium low,” he advises. “When the first side is crispy, turn it over and crisp the other side. It’s like a crispy potato chip with a soft center—add a small dollop of sour cream in the center of each slice.”

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Animals Chicken Coops & Housing Chickens 101 Farm & Garden Flock Talk Health & Nutrition Poultry Poultry Equipment

Helpful Tips For Getting Started With Chickens

chicken chickens chicks tips for getting started
Maya Kruchancova/Adobe Stock

Growing up, I was fortunate enough to be surrounded by various types of poultry. My mother certainly enjoyed keeping birds around. We had everything from Rhode Island Red and Golden Laced Wyandotte chickens to Rouen ducks, Brown African geese and even Bourbon Red turkeys. I had the opportunity to gather fresh brown eggs from the nests or, earlier on, help my family butcher roosters and prepare them for the freezer. 

No matter if you grew up on a homestead yourself or are just now beginning to dabble in a more self-sufficient lifestyle, a small flock of chickens can be a great way to get your feet wet. Whether you have plans to harvest broilers for meat or are just looking for some laying hens to fill your kitchen with eggs, consider the following before adding poultry to your farm.

What to Look For 

Chickens come in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes. Have a plan in mind before choosing a breed. Know what purpose your flock will serve. 

  • Are you looking to raise them for meat, eggs or ornamental purposes? 
  • Are you looking for a specific feather or egg coloring?
  • How large of a space can you offer them, both in a coop or a run? 
  • What type of climate do you live in? This can influence which breed you choose. For example, breeds with larger, more exposed areas of skin in their combs or waddles can be more prone to frostbite and might not be as well-suited for a cold climate.
  • Are there any regulations in your area about having poultry? 
  • Are you wanting only hens? Keep in mind when purchasing that you’ll likely need to choose between straight run (an unsexed mix of cockerels and pullets), cockerels and pullets. 
chicken chickens chicks tips for getting started
scott/Adobe Stock

Find a Good Source

Chickens can generally be purchased as either hatching eggs, young chicks or started pullets. While fertile eggs might not be too difficult to come by in your community, incubating is a task that will need careful and consistent monitoring. On the other hand, though, started pullets can be more expensive to purchase. 

Offering a happy middle ground, newly hatched chicks are a good option for the beginning chicken-keeper. They can be purchased online via hatchery websites and then shipped to your local post office. You can also purchase in person at farm-supply stores or from an individual’s own flock. 

If ordering online, some hatcheries will require a minimum number of poultry to be purchased, and some may charge a fee for any order below a set quantity, as the chicks can stay warm longer and ship better in a larger group. This can be a disadvantage for anyone looking to start with a small flock of just a few hens. 

If you’re open to a more limited selection of breed options, a local farm-supply store might be a good place to visit as you’ll be able to see the chicks in person and likely choose which ones and how many you want. Our local feed mill also offers the option to order in chicks for people. 

For those looking to purchase from an individual, consider asking to see the original flock and inquire about any previous sickness or problems they might have had. If you already have an existing flock that you’ll be incorporating new birds into, avoid bringing any illness or problems home to your own birds. 

chicken chickens chicks tips for getting started
Ashleigh Krispense

Supplies to Have 

I have gone the impulsive route of walking away from a farm-supply store with two little boxes of fluffy chicks. But if you’re not familiar with the basics of caring for and raising them, it can be a good idea to wait until you have the supplies needed to bring them home! 

Here are some things to have on hand: 
  • A stock-tank or other suitable living space (with a piece of metal grate or other material with small openings for a lid) that can be sectioned off into smaller areas to keep the chicks contained in. While young, they won’t need a huge area to roam and keeping them warm is important. 
  • Plenty of new bedding that can be changed out once soiled
  • Chick waterer that has a shallow ring around the bottom, allowing for safe drinking
  • Chick feeder
  • Good quality chick starter, whether you choose to use medicated or unmedicated
  • Heat lamp and bulb (whether a heat lamp bulb or incandescent) that’s height can be adjusted, allowing it to be moved closer for more warmth and then further away as the chicks get older. (Tip: Watch the chicks for indicators of how hot or cold they are. If they huddle close together, they’re likely cold and need the heat lamp moved closer. If they move outside the ring of light and spread out, the light might need to be moved a bit further away.)
  • A plan for future relocation is good, because as your chicks grow, their space will need to grow as well. Offer room for them to stretch their wings and move about.

As your chicks mature into adult birds, their needs will change. Here are some basic things to have: 

• Large enough coop and run for the size of your flock 

• Appropriate feeder and feed, which can vary dependent on whether you have broilers or layers, and their age 

• Larger water dish

• Nesting boxes and bedding (such as straw)

• Roost that they can grip securely

Brooding Setup

Long-time chicken-keeper David Esau hatches his own chicks twice a year to share with people at local events/holidays, replenish his own flock of laying hens and raise cockerels to butcher. 

After hatching, he raises the chicks in about a 2-foot square cardboard box until they have grown enough to be relocated. A cardboard box meets his needs well. He can dispose of it then after the chicks have outgrown it, and as he mentioned he won’t require storage until the next batch of chicks hatch. For an additional brooder option, metal stock tanks or washtubs work very well if you’re willing to store them when not in use.

Esau suggests using appropriately-sized equipment in your brooder set-up, such as chick feeders and waterers that are low enough to the ground that they will be able to reach them. Wood chips can be used for litter. And for a heat source, Esau has opted to use a heat shield with a 40- to 60-watt incandescent light bulb (as opposed to the traditional heat lamp bulbs). Esau also notes that the heat can gradually be reduced over time as the chicks grow and feathers develop. 

Inside Your Coop

Transitioning young birds into a regular coop can be more of a challenge if you already have an established flock. Do it gradually and allow time for the chicks and older hens to first become acquainted with each other through a pen. 

Whether your chicks are in their “big bird” coop yet or not, it can be helpful to go ahead and make any repairs or small fixes needed to secure it against predators and the elements. From fixing holes in the fencing that encloses your pen, replacing broken or missing windows inside the coop, or touching up other various areas that have become weakened over time, always be prepared. 

As you prepare your coop, here are some things to consider having.

  • A sturdy-enough roost that will allow the chickens to sleep up off the ground
  • Nesting boxes can come in a variety of shapes or sizes, including homemade ones. Whatever you choose to use, line it with some bedding, such as wheat straw.
  • Feeders and waterers, whether on the ground or suspended from the ceiling
  • Appropriate lighting that can be used to supplement any extra hours of light needed for laying hens
  • Ventilation is also necessary to remove ammonia smell due to droppings, as well as to help cool the hens during hot summer months when they are inside the coop. Doors and windows can be opened and lined with chicken wire to make screens, allowing more air flow. Esau has used half-inch hail screen in the past. 

Consider the litter on the floor of your coop and find what method of care and cleaning works best for your flock and lifestyle. Keep in mind also what type of floor your coop has, whether it’s a dirt floor at ground level or elevated with wood.

Look for any openings or gaps that would allow a predator to slip inside, such as a weasel, opossum or hungry raccoon. Even snakes will seek out a whole egg meal at times.

Feeding & Boredom Busters

The nutritional needs of your flock will vary, depending on their age and intended purpose. It’s good to do your research via poultry-related books, trustworthy local feed-mill/feed-store employees, or, as Esau suggests, the instructions on feed bags. He feeds a commercial feed that is age-appropriate for his flock. Chicks should start with chick starter and gradually move up as they mature to a brooder/grower/finisher feed. Esau suggests that pullets can then be switched to a layer feed around a month before they are to start laying.

Once you have landed on a good feeding plan, supplement it from time to time with various boredom busters. Try suspending a head of cabbage or lettuce in the air and letting your birds peck at it. You can also make your own frozen treats.

If producing fodder from sprouted grains—such as wheat—sounds like something you would like to try, Esau has grown it in various containers to around a height of 3 inches before feeding it to his flock. He prefers to not grow so much that the flock can’t consume it within just a day or two. 

chicken chickens chicks tips for getting started
Ashleigh Krispense

Poultry-Safe Landscaping 

Gardening and landscaping while owning chickens can be a challenge, especially if they free-range. Learning which plants are safest to plant near your coop or in the main free-range area can be helpful. For example, local greenhouse owner and chicken-keeper Jana Dalke shared some herbs and other plants that can be safely planted near poultry, such as “mint, chives, parsley fennel, basil, anything in the brassica family,” she says. “They love lettuce and other salad greens.” 

If you’re looking to mix it up, Dalke also suggests providing your flock with an accessible snack by allowing cucumbers to grow up a fence. This way, the birds can munch on them as they’re produced. She pointed out that preventative measures will need to be taken in the beginning—such as putting fence around the plants—to keep chickens from the plants until they have matured.

While various types of plants can safely co-exist with poultry, some are also considered toxic. Dalke mentioned some of these. “Nightshades, bulbs such as tulip daffodils and iris, holly, foxglove, azalea, oak leaves and acorns, rhubarb, yew, apricot pits, certain ferns are said to be toxic to chickens,” she says. 

Whether you’re close to making your first purchase from a hatchery or are considering some fertile hatching eggs to go in an incubator, chickens can offer a fun and educational experience for your homestead. Do your research, gather the supplies and watch as your flock seems to expand right before your eyes! 

More Information

Keeping Your Hens Healthy

Sometimes, prevention can be the best medicine when it comes to keeping your flock healthy. Here are some simple steps you can implement in caring for your own poultry.

Chicken-keeper David Esau recommends having good feed (which should be appropriate for your flock’s age and nutritional needs, depending on if they’re layers or broilers) and being watchful for parasites. The more time you spend around your birds, the more normal their behaviors will appear, so you’ll be better able to spot something that’s out of character.

Provide fresh, clean water during the summer and winter. Whether it’s become low and dirty during the hot summer afternoons or frozen over and unable to be drunk during cold winter days, check in regularly on their water supply and freshen it up.

For larger flocks, an appropriately sized coop and run is beneficial. This will keep them from being too cramped and avoid behavioral problems and excessive pecking or bullying. 

Watch for excess amounts of ammonia from droppings, which can cause respiratory issues in your flock. Check your coop for plenty of ventilation and clean or change litter as needed. Find a routine that works for you and your flock.

Keep a watchful eye out (and ear, as sometimes you may notice an odd noise) on your chickens for early signs of health problems. Whether mites or an illness, it can be helpful to jump on an issue as soon as it can be recognized.

This article originally appeared in the Nov./Dec. 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

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Podcast

Episode 67: Ben Hartman

Hobby Farms Presents: Growing Good

Indiana farmer and The Lean Micro Farm author Ben Hartman talks about the logistics of downsizing.

Hear about the CSA Ben started while still in high school and how this set him up for a career in farming. Ben shares the statistics that, by the end of this century, we will lose half of the farms that we have now, and the farms that are left will be twice as large. Statistics like this make him believe even more strongly that farmers need to increase their money-making potential.

“We were really bad farmers,” Ben says about his and his wife, Rachel Hershberger’s, Clay Bottom Farm. Listen to his story of farming 5 acres on a growth trajectory, then changing course to start downsizing instead—and now farming just 1/3 acre and making the same amount of money. You’ll hear Ben’s step-by-step entry into the principles of the lean manufacturing system, including examining and getting rid of the seven forms of waste, designing a farm business that achieves specific goals, using the 80/20 principle to identify both customers and products, and more. Also learn a couple of lean concepts for managing workforce and the 5 S organizing system. (This will change how you use and store your farming tools!)

Also get to know the work Ben has done with Winrock International’s USAID farmer-first lean-farming project in Nigeria and his teaching and training work for farmers everywhere.