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Animals Farm & Garden Homesteading Large Animals

Which Ruminants To Start With: Goats, Sheep Or Cattle?

Remember the first time you butchered a chicken? Or put up your very first batch of canned tomatoes? What about the first apple pie you baked from apples that came from your very own homestead? These things are milestones—significant passages in our homestead journeys toward food independence. They’re really memorable, beautiful and significant.

These accomplishments aren’t just personal victories. They’re victories for your biological community, the sum of all the living things on your homestead. With your management and assistance, energy—solar energy, sunlight, the only source of life—has been captured and launched on its journey through the food web. Life is enhanced on your land, and you’ve taken a starring role. 

Listening to the Land

Once we start homesteading, the adventure of partnering with Mother Nature just gets more exciting. We want to produce more of our own food. We want to eliminate the feed bill and replace those purchased calories with energy straight from our land. We find we want to do more, and bigger, things that will leverage our most important natural resources, sunlight and rainfall, for the renewal and regeneration of our farms.

And, sooner or later, we realize that we need to be harvesting our fields, lawns, meadows and pastures with grazing animals. Good, holistic grazing is the key to utilizing every drop of rain, and every photon, for the fertility and abundance of our homesteads.

But getting a good start in regenerative grazing doesn’t automatically happen when you buy some temporary fencing and an energizer! The very first step, even before you bring an animal onto your land, must be to study your environment and determine what kind of grazing animal your land really needs. Because for your farm to be regenerative, it needs to fit the landscape; it needs to listen to the land.

And grazing animals are not all alike.

Who Eats What?

This is obvious when we look at the most common homestead ruminants—cows, sheep and goats. These are the big players in a regenerative homestead, because they are the most efficient converters of plant material into food energy and soil improvement. If you want to harvest the most energy possible from your land, ruminants are going to be your first choice.

But the different ruminant species have different diets, different behavioral habits and different impacts when they graze. Knowing what kinds of plant foods each prefers, and the propensities of each, will help you select the proper ruminant to have the most positive impact—on your land, on your foodscape, on your diet and on your budget.

ruminant ruminants sheep pasture
Susan/Adobe Stock

Caprine Cuisine

If your land is one solid mass of thorny plants—briars, berry canes, and thorny bushes—you’ve got a banquet for goats. Cheaper than a tractor/brush hog rig, a goat—or a whole herd of goats—can tame your thorny jungle and turn it into milk and meat for your table. 

And no other species of domestic ruminant has quite the taste for woody, gnarly, spiny snacks that goats have. Maybe you’re thinking you want to raise something else—Babydoll Southdown sheep are cute, and a Jersey cow could give you a lot of butter cream. But if your homestead is presently saying it in briars, bring on the goats.

The great thing is, not only are goats the diners for your pasture’s dinner, they’re the fix for your forages. They’ll turn your briars into beautiful grassy meadows. That’s because the brushy plants that goats prefer don’t really benefit from grazing the way, say, grass and clover do. When we allow goats to browse heavily and often, our brushy perennials have to spend their stored energy on regrowth. Eventually they just give up. Then grasses and forbs—broadleaf plants like clovers and weeds—move in to cover the soil. Our thorny fields become pastures.

When that happens, it’s time to move the goats out. Yes, they can eat grass and clover, but what they really thrive on is woody, fibrous growth rich in phytochemicals such as tannins and glycoalcaloids. Further, goats are browsers, best suited to grazing at the height of their own shoulder or higher. They lack the instinct that makes other ruminants avoid grazing near their own manure, so goats that feed at ground level are apt to become pathologically infected with parasites. 

So when the brush and briars are eradicated it’s time to move them on to a new patch of woody overgrowth. If you were thinking all along that you’d rather keep cows or sheep, your time has come. Now your pastures are cow and sheep-friendly.

And good grazing, that benefits the plants and the animals, only happens when we let the forages tell us what species of ruminant it is best to graze.

Sheep & Cows

Tall, weedy broadleafs—common weeds such as goldenrod, Queen Anne’s lace and ragweed—are perfect sheep food. While sheep will graze turf grasses, clovers and other short, dense ground covers, their real gift is for nibbling the leaves off of taller forages. Which is great, because this is a niche that fits right between goats, with their love of woody, thorny plants, and cows, who thrive on lush grasses and tender legumes. 

Sheep love to bunch together and move as a group through patches of broadleaf plants, stripping off the foliage and leaving just the stems. This is especially valuable behavior when leveraged against an incurrence of invasive species such as kudzu or Japanese knotweed. Run a group of sheep through and strip the plants bare. Then, when the stems put on a second flush of foliage, bring the sheep back to denude them again. Impact of this kind, when repeated frequently, can whip the most persistent weed infestations.

Cow and sheep pastures look an awful lot alike—for good reason. Cows and sheep utilize a lot of the same plants and in similar ways. For really good utilization of forages, give us sheep and cows, together! 

Both eat grass and legumes; both like broadleaf weeds. But where sheep concentrate their grazing on broadleafs when these are present, cows are more selective, harvesting specific plant parts at specific times, seldom stripping the whole plant.

Sheep utilize more of the broadleaf as food. What cows bring to weed management that sheep don’t is overall impact. Cows, with their larger bodies and feet, knock down and trample what they don’t eat. And both will eat some of everything—even spiny, thorny plants like briars—and make good use of it.

Positive Impacts

In fact, this matter of impact will play an equal role with forage type in determining what species of ruminant your land needs. Animal behavior in general is a factor in species appropriateness. An animal’s size and agility will have a lot to do with how well-suited it is to your pasture. Not only do heavy animals cause more compaction in wet soils—something that can be either beneficial or detrimental, depending on circumstance—but a larger, heavier animal is likely to do more damage if left too long on creek or pond banks, or navigating steep slopes. 

In general, the wetter, steeper or less stable your land, the smaller the animal species that is appropriate to it. So after you ask yourself the questions “what is growing here?” and “who eats that?,” ask: “Which species of ruminant will be most suited to my topography?” Leave the steep, rocky slopes to the sheep and goats, and keep the cows on the more level ground.

ruminant ruminants cow pasture
Alexander/Adobe Stock

Good Grazing!

Maybe you’ve been on this path for a while, or maybe you’ve only just begun to see a bigger goal behind your garden and flock of chickens, but when you’re ready to take the next step, you’ll want to talk about grazing. Because grazing—harvesting whatever grass, forbs (weeds), shrubs and low-hanging tree branches your land grows—is the most effective and productive way we have to turn local sunlight into nutrients to feed us, our livestock and our soil. 

Grazing animals harvest default forages—persistent volunteer plant communities, meaning the plants that want to be here, that belong here and will stay here. They then turn them into manure, to enrich the soil; meat and milk, to feed the hungry humans; and into more grazing animals, which keep the cycle going around.

Good, attentive, regenerative grazing is a soil-building, climate-improving miracle.


More Information

Toxic or Therapeutic? 

We see it all the time in farm consultations and pasture visits: Homesteaders ready to purchase their first ruminant are suddenly set back by the discovery that among the many plant species in their pastures are some the extension officer, or the next door neighbor, or the plant field guide, identifies as toxic. Full of fear, they cancel their plans to bring in a cow, sheep or goat while they try to figure out how to eradicate the dangerous plant species.

If this is your experience, take heart! Most “toxic” species might more correctly be labeled “medicinal.” Or, since holistically grazed animals tend to enjoy the high levels of health that make medicines unnecessary, we might call these plants “therapeutic.”

By consuming nonforage plants with traces of phytochemicals (complex plant-constructed compounds) such as tannins, glycoalcaloids, phenols and other such compounds that, taken in large doses, could be toxic, grazing livestock access their best defense against parasites, deficiencies and diseases. Grazed animals learn to identify these species and know when, what parts and how much to consume for natural health. 

In any case, most animals will avoid toxic plants, preferring to do most of their grazing among familiar, nutritious and tasty forage species. 

Pigs & Poultry

Keeping poultry and pigs on pasture instead of in pens can be a great idea, but you should know what you’re doing and why. Pigs can knock down a weed patch, harvest fruit or nut windfalls, or do some serious surface alterations. 

What a pig can’t do is convert cellulosic fiber into meat. Of the domestic animals, only the ruminants can break down coarse fiber and extract its energy for other uses. And because pasture plants are about 80 percent fiber, that’s a lot of energy.

Poultry can be managed on pasture in several ways. Tractored birds, and birds confined with poultry netting, can be moved gradually across pastures to de-bug and spread manure. Free-range birds have the run of the homestead, so they also are well-placed to harvest what is useful to them in the pasture—things such as seeds, tender leaves, bugs and worms. But, like pigs, poultry can’t digest fiber, so 80 percent of your pasture energy is unavailable to them. 

Nonruminant livestock have important roles to play in forage harvest communities! Their scavenging, manure-spreading, dethatching, and aeration are valuable ecological services. But for harvesting pasture plants and converting them into forms that fuel the farmstead—things such as milk, meat and manure—ruminants rule.

This article appeared in Hobby Farm Home, a 2024 specialty publication produced by the editors and writers of Hobby Farms magazine. In addition to this piece, Hobby Farm Home includes recipes, crafting projects, preservation tips and more. You can purchase this volume, Hobby Farms back issues as well as special editions such as Healing Herbs and  Goats 101 by following this link.

Categories
Equipment

3 Steps To Store Small Farm Machines For Winter

Winter is coming, and you’re probably busy preparing your major farm machines for cold and snow. You’re switching to winter-grade oil in your tractor, mounting a snow blower attachment on your UTV, installing tire chains wherever applicable, etc.

But what about small farm machines? You know, the string trimmer, the leaf blower, the riding lawn mower—machines that won’t be used again until spring. It’s easy to get caught up in other winter preparation and abandon unused machines in a corner of the garage or tool shed. But taking the time to properly prepare these small machines for winter will help ensure they remain in good working order for next year.

Here are three steps you should take to prepare small farm machines for winter storage.

1. Remove Batteries

Not every small machine will have a battery. Many start via recoil starters. But if you’re putting away your lawn tractor or ATV for the winter, be sure to pull out the battery. Batteries aren’t fond of cold weather and can even freeze if they aren’t fully charged and/or temperatures dip too cold.

Removing batteries and storing them in a warm location for winter will help ensure they’re ready to serve in the spring.

2. Add a Fuel Stabilizer

How long will your small machines be in storage? That’s an important question to ask. Gasoline can start degrading in only a month or two in some circumstances. If you’ll be storing a machine with a gas engine for six months, there’s a chance unused gas in the engine and fuel tank will degrade enough to clog the fuel lines and carburetor.

You might think, “I’ll just drain the fuel tanks,” but this isn’t the best solution. It’s difficult to get every drop of fuel out of the system, and an empty fuel tank can be prone to condensation, introducing the risk of water corroding your fuel system.

Instead of draining fuel tanks, try adding a fuel stabilizer instead. Stabilized fuel can last for a year or more without degrading, so you can safely store unused machines over winter. And so long as you fill fuel tanks almost full before placing machines in storage, you’ll leave hardly any room in the tank for condensation to form.

Just be sure to mix in the right amount of stabilizer (follow the instructions), then run the engine for a few minutes afterward to let the stabilized fuel work through the engine.

3. Store out of the Weather

If possible, store your small machines in an enclosed shed, barn or garage to keep them dry and reduce unnecessary weathering. Your rototiller might be fine stored under a lean-to near the garden in spring, summer and fall. But if you can bring it inside (and keep it out of drifting snow) during winter, all the better.

Preparing for winter takes time, but it’s worth the effort. Think of it this way: going the extra mile to take care of your small machines before winter will make sure you don’t lose time in the spring with dead batteries and clogged-up fuel lines.

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Beginning Farmers Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Homesteading Uncategorized

3 Fall Tasks To Prepare Your Brambles For Winter

Blackberry and raspberry plants need to be properly prepared for fall and winter. While they appear to be dying back on their own, they still need to be tended to for a successful spring harvest. Follow these three steps in October and November to give your brambles the best chance to survive winter and be ready to produce vigorous fruit in the spring.

Prune

Pruning is the act of cutting back plants to send the energy that is being used to grow the plant larger, back down into the bottom of the plant to strengthen the root system. In brambles, there are two different branches to prune.

Primo Canes

Primo canes are the branches that originate all of the others—the “tree trunk” of the plant coming from the ground all the way up. The goal in pruning this branch is finding a maximum height for the cane.

In the video above, you’ll see the branch is outgrowing the trellis. Choosing a spot that sits more comfortably on the trellis will help put the plant’s energy into its lateral branches.

Lateral Branches

The branches extending laterally from the primo canes are the only branches that produce fruit. Keeping these pruned strengthens the plant to produce better fruit. Letting these branches grow wild produces berries smaller in size and quantity. 

 In all parts of your plants, the dead needs to be cut out. If you doubt whether the branch is dead or not, perform a scratch test. As demonstrated in the video, a scratch test is knifing slightly into the branch. If it is green, there is still life inside the plant. If it is woody and dried up you can be sure the plant is dead. 

Secure

Take note of the canes and branches moving with the wind. While it may not seem harmful for branches of your brambles to blow with the breeze in the warm fall, it is during winter. Securing the branches will reduce the risk of freezing tips and breaking branches when the wind, snow and ice hit your patch.

In the video, branch locks are used. These are extremely handy for securing branches without putting too much pressure on the plant.

Mulch

Mulching with wood chips, hay or straw will protect your plants in the winter. The mulch will act as a blanket when freezes come on and also as a moisture barrier. Without the mulch the soil is likely to dry out and erode with the wind. 

Taking these precautions now, while the weather is changing, will give your plants a leg up when harsh weather hits. While blackberry and raspberry plants are perennial and survive in most growing zones through the winter, they still need intentional protection.

Threats to consider are wind, floods, droughts, ice storms and heavy lingering snow days. As always, keep monitoring your plants throughout the coming seasons.

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Farm Management Homesteading Large Animals

Preparing For A Successful Sheep Breeding Season

It’s breeding season, a critical period for many sheep producer operations, and it’s time to ensure that your flock thrives in the coming year. The success of a sheep operation depends on the number of lambs raised, weaned and marketed each year.  

Seasonal Timing in Sheep Breeding 

Sheep, like many other mammals, are profoundly influenced by the changing seasons. Most sheep will stop cycling when the days start getting longer, typically in January or February, and return to cyclicity when the days start getting shorter, around August or September. This cyclical pattern is intricately tied to the photoperiod, the amount of light and darkness during the day.

In essence, sheep are short-day breeders, which means they prefer to mate when the days are shorter and nights longer. 

During the autumn and winter months, ewes enter their 17-day estrous cycles, becoming sexually active. However, from late winter through to autumn, they experience a period of sexual inactivity known as anestrus. While most sheep follow this pattern, certain breeds with a naturally long breeding season (such as Dorset, Polypay, Rambouillet, Targhee, Katahdin and Finnsheep) deviate from the norm. These breeds start cycling sooner and adapt to fall lambing with more success than breeds with shorter breeding seasons, which typically last for four months. 

Because my flock is mostly North Country Cheviot, I’ve always put the rams and ewes together near the end of October or early November. That means I’ll be looking for lambs around the first of April. 

Managing Body Condition for Breeding Success 

One of the key determinants of a successful sheep breeding season is the body condition of your ewes. Animals that are either too thin or too fat may not cycle into estrus and will not be bred. Ideal body condition is typically rated at a 5 or 6 on the Body Condition Score (BCS) scale. It’s essential to assess BCS before the breeding season begins, and it should be maintained throughout the season and at lambing or kidding. 

For those that are not in ideal condition, there is a practice known as “flushing.”  Flushing involves increasing the amount of feed offered to the animals, typically two to three weeks before the breeding season. This extra nutrition helps them put on weight prior to breeding. Ewes that are already in good condition usually don’t respond to flushing. 

Don’t overlook your ram when it comes to body condition. They typically lose weight during the breeding season due to increased physical activity and decreased feed intake, so monitoring their condition is crucial. 

Health Management for Breeding Success 

In addition to body condition, the overall health of your flock plays a pivotal role in a successful breeding season. Regular health management practices include hoof trimming, vaccination and deworming. 

Proper hoof care is vital, especially during a period of increased activity for both ewes and rams. It’s essential to examine their feet for sores, signs of foot rot, infection and overgrowth. Healthy hooves ensure that your sheep can move about comfortably and actively participate in the breeding process. 

Vaccination is another critical aspect of health management. Producers should consider vaccinating twice per year, starting at the beginning of the breeding season and again four to six weeks before lambing. If you only vaccinate only once per year, it’s best to do so four to six weeks before lambing to ensure that immunity is passed to the lamb or kid. Additionally the lambs should be vaccinated at 8 weeks old, with a booster at 12 weeks. I use a CD&T vaccine, which protects against overeating disease and tetanus. Definitely talk to your vet about what they recommend for vaccination.  

Deworming is another important pre-breeding season task, particularly if you plan to flush your ewes. You should do the deworming before flushing to get optimal health and reproductive success. 

Optimizing Breeding Season Duration & Ratios 

The breeding season should last for at least 40 to 45 days to allow ewes to complete two estrous or heat cycles, or about 34 days. My research shows that a ratio of one ram for 50 ewes is about right. This ratio helps ensure that each female has the opportunity to mate and conceive, optimizing her overall breeding season. 

By paying attention to seasonal timing, managing body condition, and ensuring the health of your animals, you can set the stage for a productive and successful breeding season, ultimately leading to a thriving flock. 

Good luck to all who are looking forward to some lambs in the coming months! 

Categories
Beginning Farmers Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Farm Management Homesteading News

Plan For Farm Water Concerns In A Changing Climate

Considering the climate is shifting, it’s probably worth considering how to prepare your farm for coming uncertainty. There are a number of production aspects to consider, from water to soil management to crop choices to business strategies.

Today, we’ll focus on the very important consideration around water on the farm: too little, too much and maybe even both! 

Water is one of the most critical resources on the planet. Your annual and perennial crops must have water to thrive and survive.  Insufficient water in the soil will cause a crop to wilt and eventually die. Inadequate water will lead to a loss of yield and crop quality. 

Similarly, too much water is a bad thing. Waterlogged soils can become anaerobic and produce poor crop yields. If soil is too wet, you may not even be able to get into the field to plant or harvest. 

Capture & Store More Water

Develop strategies to capture and store water and easily distribute it to your plants around your farm. 

I like to create ponds in low-lying areas to hold water—this feels like a no-brainer. But you can also create ponds at higher elevation in strategic locations to capture spring runoff and soil seepage. 

One simple, though potentially costly, idea is to install eavestroughs (gutters, essentially) to direct water into storage tanks from barns and houses.

Drip irrigation, flood irrigation and sprinklers all have merit for water distribution. Drip irrigation is lower cost and can also be very efficient, with minimal water lost to evaporation. The method, however, is less ideal on a large scale, and drip irrigation can get in the way when you need to cultivate for weeds. Sprinklers, on the other hand, can be easily avoided for mechanical cultivation. But they can also waste precious water.

One of the farmer’s best lines of defense is to improve soil’s capacity to hold water. This can be done through intensive cover cropping to increase the soil’s organic matter percentage and build better aggregation in the soil. Ironically this will also help the soil drain better when there is too much water. 

Dealing with Too Much Water

If you have too much water, you should improve the drainage in the soil on your farm to prevent flooding. For gardens and market gardens, raised Permabeds will help improve soil drainage by assisting in development of aggregates and better soil structure.

You should also strategize your crop selection for low-lying areas prone to seasonal flooding. If it already floods, it will likely flood more in the future. Maybe you can retire this area from annual crops and plant perennials that don’t mind getting seasonally wet feet (like elderberries). Hazelnuts have also performed well in less-than-ideal soils, and haskaps will also yield in low-lying clay soils. Alternative crops like sweetgrass can be an interesting addition to a farm’s output; sweetgrass does very well in wet soil.

Sometimes it is about planting crops in the fall, when it may be drier, then avoiding late starts in spring. Crops like winter grains or garlic avoid spring bottlenecks with uncertain weather.

Additionally, planting later may be a good idea. If the ground is saturated April through May, maybe a June planting of water-loving melons could be just the ticket. 

Climate change requires consideration for water—both too little and too much. Choosing when and what you plant; improving the soil; and understanding how to capture, store and release water for irrigation are some of the key considerations to make now so you’re ready for climate change effects in the coming years.

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Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Food Recipes

Recipe: A Delightful Fermented Tomatillo Salsa

If you still have fresh tomatillos available to you, give this fresh tomatillo fermented salsa recipe a try. Most tomatillo recipes I’ve had are roasted or canned. This fermented twist will delight your tastebuds. Enjoy it as you would any other salsa.

Yield: 1 pint jar (2 cups)

Ingredients

  • 1.5 cups fresh tomatillo, diced (about 4 small tomatillos)
  • 2 tbsp. finely diced yellow onion
  • 1/2 cup chopped cilantro, loosely packed
  • 2 tsp. fresh garlic, finely chopped
  • 1 jalapeño pepper, finely diced (or bell pepper if you want to omit the spice)
  • 2 tsp. fresh lime juice
  • 1 tsp. coarse kosher salt
  • Dash of black pepper (optional)

Directions

In a medium-sized, non-reactive bowl (such as a stainless steel or glass), prep ingredients and mix them together. Stir well to distribute the salt.

Once mixed well, transfer the ingredients to a clean wide-mouth, pint-sized canning jar. Use a jar weight (or other food-safe weight option) to push down the ingredients under the brine. Make sure that there is no food on the sides of the jar that is above the brine.

Wipe the rim of the jar clean, place the canning lid (or airlock lid if using one), and tightly screw on the metal ring.

Fermentation

Ferment at room temperature for two to three days out of direct sunlight. Though the tomatillo salsa is delicious immediately after mixing together, the fermented flavors will change after a couple of days.

Taste test after 48 hours to determine if the salsa has fermented to your liking. If the salsa still tastes too much like the food in the raw form, allow it to ferment for another day. Repeat until it’s reached your ideal flavor. Once fermented, transfer to the refrigerator.

Because fermentation does not stop completely once cooled, the taste and texture will continue to change. Therefore, this ferment is best enjoyed within two weeks.

Notes

If you do not have a glass jar weight, you can improvise by using a small (and easily removable) food-grade glass dish that fits inside the jar. Or, if you have a smaller glass canning jar that can fit into the mouth of the jar you are fermenting with, you can use that to keep the produce pushed under the brine.

You may substitute fine sea salt instead of coarse kosher salt if you prefer. The measurement will remain the same for this recipe.

This recipe has been adapted from Thurow’s book WECK Home Preserving (2018) with permission from Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.

Categories
Beginning Farmers Equipment Farm & Garden

Protect Farm Equipment From Theft With Smart Devices

Living on a farm means dealing with daily challenges. But one of the most distressing situations is when an intruder trespasses onto your property and steals your valuable farm equipment. Whether it’s ATVs, tractors or tractor attachments, farm equipment theft can cause a lot of headaches and hassle.

Insurance can cover some losses due to theft, but you will still need to spend time and energy filing insurance paperwork and replacing stolen items. Some types of farm equipment aren’t replaceable either, so prevention is key to avoiding this issue entirely.

One way to be proactive and minimize your risk of farm theft is to use smart devices to protect and monitor your property. While they can’t put a full stop to someone trespassing, they can alert you to intruders, light up dark areas, track your equipment, or help law enforcement crack down on thieves.

Here are a few ways you can use smart devices to be proactive and prevent theft on your hobby farm.

Add Smart Lights to Your Yard

Smart lights are (wired or wireless) light bulbs or light fixtures that are controlled by an app connected to your Wi-Fi network. There are smart motion lights with built-in cameras, bulbs you can add to your outdoor fixtures, and landscape lighting you can use to light up dark areas of your yard or add to your garage, barn or gate.

Depending on which smart lights you choose, you could add a bright motion light to the spot where your farm equipment is stored. Or you could set a timer for your lights to come on outside when it gets dark.

Most smart lights are controllable from anywhere you are. You can turn lights on in your home or yard when you’re not there. They have motion detection so they will turn on if someone is nearby. Some even have two-way talk—if your lights detect motion, you can hear and speak to whomever is there.

Smart Cameras Keep a Watchful Eye on Your Farm Equipment

Smart cameras also detect motion, but these cameras can capture video of trespassers who may venture into your yard in search of farm equipment. If you have an issue with Wi-Fi reaching different areas of your property, you may want to opt for wired cameras that connect to a DVR and store your recorded footage. You can also opt for cameras that run on a cellular network so you don’t have to be in range of Wi-Fi to use them. They will connect just like a cell phone and record footage that’s stored in an app or on the camera’s micro-SD card.

A good rule of thumb when using smart cameras to protect farm equipment is to add it to the area where it is focused directly on your tractor, ATV or other implements. If possible, choose an out–of-the-way area for storing your equipment so it’s out of sight and you know no one will walk by and set off the camera’s motion sensors.

On your phone, be sure to set the app up so it has a unique notification tone that’s not the same as your ringer or your text notification tone. If motion is detected and you hear that sound, you’ll immediately know to open the app and find out who is there.

Add GPS Tags to Your Farm Equipment

Bluetooth tags and agricultural-specific GPS trackers are designed to help you locate lost items, and they can add a layer of anti-theft protection to your tractor or other farm vehicle. You can slide the tracker into an out-of-the-way spot or use a magnetic holder to keep it on the bottom of the vehicle.

Some trackers will alert you if your tractor is heading out of the driveway without your knowledge. Others will only detect when the tractor is nearby or if the thief’s phone picks up the tracker’s signal.

If you are very concerned about potential farm equipment theft you’ll want to choose a tracker with long battery life and the ability to track the equipment’s location with an app. That way, if you notice your tractor has been stolen, you can just open the app on your phone and share the location with police.

If your farm equipment is stolen, you should report the theft to your local police immediately. Even if you have a tracker on your equipment and know where it is, it’s safer to rely on law enforcement to locate and return your items.

Protect Your Farm & Your Farm Equipment

Smart devices are an easy and fairly inexpensive way to protect your farm equipment. Once everything is set up on your property, you’ll have peace of mind knowing you can keep a watchful eye on your tractor, ATV and other implements from wherever you are.

Categories
Beginning Farmers Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden

Snohomish Lavender Farm Is About Connecting With Community

“I feel very fortunate to have grown up in the Pacific Northwest,” says Allison Lamb, who runs the Snohomish Lavender Farm and photography venue in Washington. “In the ’80s and ’90s it was natural to be outside all the time. And to this day I prefer to spend my time outdoors. Yes, it sure does rain a lot here, but it’s worth it when you get to soak in the beauty of the Puget Sound. All the different textures and colors of summer through fall bring me great joy.”

Lamb’s outdoors-based upbringing officially transformed in Snohomish Lavender Farm in 2020, when she and her family secured an old farm set on 5 acres of property. A humble vision to establish a vegetable garden and a greenhouse has now grown into a full-on hobby farm, which supplants lavender with dahlias and sunflowers.

Taking a moment from caring for her flowers, we spoke to Lamb about her favorite types of lavender seedlings and how family is a key part of hobby farming. We also got into lavender’s culinary potential.

Searching for Room to Get Creative

When looking at properties in 2020, Lamb says the goal was to find a place “that gave us the room to be creative.” Lamb adds that the idea to establish a hobby farm developed over time and came about organically.

“One moment I can say for sure that helped solidify my dream for a hobby farm was when I was pregnant with my second child and we were looking for a safe private place to take maternity photos,” explains Lamb. “I couldn’t find a flower farm that offered the vibe I was looking for. I love photography and if I can offer to share my garden with families to safely bring their families to capture those special moments, then why not?”

Putting Trust in Lavender

“I love lavender because of its wide range of uses and it’s a hardy herb that is easy to maintain and grow in my region,” says Lamb, recalling why the aromatic shrub became the focus of her hobby farm. “In the spring of 2021, we planted over 200 lavender seedlings. Folgate, Royal Velvet and Grosso are the three varieties we grow here on the farm. We hope to expand over the years.”

Bringing Lavender into The Kitchen

Lavender wreaths and sachets are the biggest requested items at Snohomish Lavender Farm. But Lamb says embracing the shrub’s culinary potential is fascinating.

“Folgate and Royal Velvet are perfect for in the kitchen,” she says. “You can enjoy lavender lemonade, tea and baked goods. Beyond the kitchen, this aromatic herb is highly sought after for its health benefits and cosmetics.”

A World Beyond Lavender

After Snohomish Lavender Farm’s titular crop, Lamb says they also grow over 300 cultivars of dahlia flowers and frequently receive requests for sunflowers.

“Most farms grow sunflowers late in the season for a fall attraction. Our customers here are always pleased when we have them available earlier in the summer.”

Connecting with Community

At heart, Lamb says that Snohomish Lavender Farm is about connecting with the local community. “It is rewarding to have photographers bring their clients to capture those special moments here on the farm, especially when they return all season long, year after year,” she explains.

Additionally, Lamb says the inherent family aspect of hobby farming brings her a rewarding feeling. “The farm is a special place for my family,” she says. “We have fun watching it develop with each season. The kids love to help me in the garden. They get so excited to eat what they planted, pick flowers and share them with their friends or neighbors.

“My oldest daughter likes to help make bouquets and sell them. We are teaching the kids the bounty of accomplishment and what it means to put in hard work.”

Follow Snohomish Lavender Farm at Instagram.

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Podcast

Episode 64: Reeba Daniel


Hobby Farms Presents: Growing Good Reeba Daniel

Reeba Daniel talks farm to school, land access, leadership in food systems and more on this episode of Hobby Farms Presents: Growing Good.

Reeba talks about their business, Keep Growing Seeds, that allows them to create and manage school gardens, work with “learners” to grow and eat good food, and also examine culture and connection through food. They talk about the benefits and challenges of gardening and garden education in the Pacific Northwest climate of Portland, Oregon, and how they adjust their plans based on the weather. Reeba shares their dream for school gardens and garden education everywhere and why this could be important to all of us.

Hear about Reeba’s own garden, growing and marketing culturally relevant crops from responsibly sourced seeds, and learning about the business side of farming from the Come Thru Market. They talk about the search for farmland, Black land loss and opportunities to create community partnerships for growing space. Learn about some of the value-added products Reeba creates—like vegan honey!—their R&AIRE botanical skincare line, Oregon’s cottage-food laws, and why value-added products are a smart business idea.

Get to know the nonprofit Farmers Market Fund, which matches SNAP purchases at Oregon Farmers Markets. Reeba talks about their experience as a first-time board member—and podcast host Lisa Munniksma gives Reeba (and you!) a pep talk about why “we”—meaning everyday farmers and community members—are fully qualified to serve and actually must serve in leadership roles.

Categories
Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Foraging Foraging Homesteading Permaculture

Grow Mullein For Its Powerful Antioxidant Properties

About 30 years ago, Linda Jameson acquired two mullein plants from her husband’s grandfather. She planted them on her family’s Oklahoma acreage, in case she needed them for medicinal purposes. 

 “But during 2020, 100 plants suddenly popped up and you could barely walk in my chicken yard,” Jameson says. “I couldn’t mow the area. So, I thought I should take the plants more seriously. I used YouTube to understand how to use mullein. Then I gathered the leaves and flowers for our family, and to share with friends.” 

Using & Preparing Mullein

During the plant’s first year, mullein emerges at ground level, remaining there before it dies during summer heat, leaving an established root. During year two, it grows back, up to 8 feet tall, and continues growing through spring and summer.  

Jameson does nothing to help the plants grow. During the spring, she gathers the leaves and flowers while they are fresh. However, the entire plant dries up at summer’s end, at which time she pulls down the stalks. By that time, the flowers are gone. 

In order to make teas and tinctures, Jameson gathers flowers when they bloom, and she only gathers leaves from the bottom of the plant so she gets fresh leaves. 

“I have a dehydrator, but I don’t use it because I don’t want the leaves or flowers to get too hot,” Jameson says. “I place the leaves on a surface to dry a bit, so they won’t mold. Then I tie the leaves with string, so air circulates around them, and let them hang where it’s cool inside my home. After they dry, I take them down and hand crush them, and put them in lidded canning jars.” 

As well, Jameson places the flowers onto paper towels on wire racks, and lets them dry inside her home. She places the dried, whole flowers into lidded canning jars.  

mullein
Carol Mowdy Bond

Making Teas & Tinctures

Jameson uses small canning jars, allowing each opened jar to be fresh. She uses all the leaves or flowers in one jar, before opening the next jar. She keeps the jars for several years but cautions to make sure all moisture is removed prior to storing in jars.  

“I place about 2 teaspoons of the leaves, or the flowers, into boiling water like you would to make any tea,” Jameson says. “But it’s important that you strain it because there are little hairs on the leaves that irritate the throat. So, I strain the tea through a coffee filter. When I use the flower to make tea, it has a more delicate flavor.” 

Jameson uses YouTube for mullein tincture recipes. The tincture is more convenient to have on hand. She places tincture drops into warm water to make tea. 

For a tincture, use 2.5 to 5ml three times daily of a 1:5 tincture (in 40 percent alcohol). For infusion, pour 1 cup boiling water over 2 teaspoons dried leaf or flower, and infuse for 10 to 15 minutes. Then strain through cheesecloth to filter out the hairs. Drink three times daily.

You can also purchase already processed mullein products. 

Several years ago, the Jamesons brought beehives onto their property. The bees are all over the plants. When they harvest the honey, the honey tastes like mullein plants. So Jameson refers to the honey as “natural mullein honey.” 

 “You can infuse honey with mullein, but I don’t have to do that because the bees do it,” Jameson says. “The mullein honey stops coughs.” 

mullein
Linda Jameson

All About Mullein 

Mullein has been used since ancient times, and there are various species of the biennial herb, which is also known by many other names. During the Middle Ages, mullein was used for skin and lung diseases, to potentially help with respiratory health (especially coughs with bronchial congestion) as well as wound healing, ear infections, asthma and urinary tract infections.

Herbalists commonly use mullein for respiratory and lung health because of antioxidant properties that reduce inflammation and act as a stimulating expectorant. As well, mullein may benefit the skin and promote wound healing. Plus, due to microbial properties that fight urinary tract infections, the plant may act as a diuretic to reduce inflammation in the urinary system.  

Recent scientific research has backed up claims of the plant’s traditional health benefits, though researchers say more studies are needed.  

When appropriately ingested, mullein is safe and well tolerated by most people. However, no research exists relating to those who are pregnant or lactating. And the medical community suggests talking to a doctor before using the plant, while reiterating the mouth and throat irritation caused by the tiny hairs on mullein leaves. 

Mullein attracts insects, and is considered invasive in 20 states, producing 100,000 to 200,00 seeds per plant. Considered a weed by many, mullein may be challenging to remove, remain viable for decades, and crowd out native plant species.