Trees are thoughtful gifts to give around the Christmas season because they represent intentionality, future plans, and a love for beauty and our planet. Trees can be a very personal gift that represent knowing the recipient well enough to pick out something they would enjoy for years to come. Read below for a gift guide of how to pick out the right tree for the right person.
Tabletop Trees
Giving indoor holiday trees is a great way to keep someone’s holiday spirit up. The aroma of the trees and the look of the spruces and pines are a great mood booster to enjoy all season long. Most of these trees can be purchased online and in box stores.
Rosemary Topiaries
Many grocery stores and nurseries sell rosemary plants trimmed in a conical Christmas tree form. This is a great choice for for the chef in your life to keep in their kitchen and use for culinary purposes.
Lavender Trees
Lavender is another great tabletop option to be used in the kitchen throughout the season. The plant has culinary, medicinal and fragrance benefits for anyone who loves essential oils and herbs.
Norfolk Island Pine Tree
The Norfolk Island pine tree has all the beauty of an indoor live Christmas tree in a houseplant size. It is well suited to decorate around Christmas but can also live as an indoor tree year around. The tree does not like cold, though, so this is the perfect tree to bring the outdoors inside during the winter. This is a great gift for someone who loves traditional Christmas trees all year around.
Lemon Cypress
The lemon cypress tree brings energy and freshness to any home. You can easily find it this time of year in a Christmassy cone shape, but with a zesty twist of lemon aroma. It’s perfect for a high-energy acquaintance with an appreciation for tradition. An added benefit: This tree can be repotted outdoors when it is warmer and continues to grow.
Trees to Plant Outdoors
Any time the soil is workable, you can plant a tree. Christmas is still planting time for several zones, so don’t hesitate to find the right tree for the future in a size ready for the ground. These evergreens are wonderful to give at Christmastime because they maintain a Christmas tree look throughout the year.
Here a few few varieties of trees that make perfect Christmas gifts:
Carolina Sapphire Cypress Tree
The Carolina Sapphire Cypress tree is a great choice for gardeners of all levels. It is beautiful and unique looking, with gray, silvery, lacey foliage that maintains an evergreen look—so the recipient can always remember which tree you picked for them. They are low maintenance and adaptable to many soils, with very few pest issues. The tree can be planted almost any time of the year. Best for Zones 6 through 9, this tree bring Christmas-looking trees to the landscape in warmer areas.
Colorado Blue Spruce
Easy to find this time of year, the Colorado blue spruce is a beautiful blue green Christmas tree you can enjoy year-round. Best in Zones 2 though 7, this tree thrives in colder climates. The Colorado blue spruce is instantly recognizable and easy to identify, and it’s a safe bet for traditional people in your life.
Canadian Hemlock
For the artist and advanced topiary pros, the Canadian hemlock is a great choice. It can be trimmed to any height and shape, and left untouched will reach a height of 40 to 70 feet, with a spread of 25 to 35 feet. It creates a fun challenge for creative gardeners who like to work with their trees. (Zones 3 through 7)
Always do your research on growing zones and soil requirements before gifting someone with a tree to plant outdoors.
Another thoughtful way to give a tree to someone without strapping them with the responsibility of taking care of the tree is to purchase any number of trees to be planted in National Forests. This is a thoughtful gesture that shows respect for our planet. Several services sell the option to plant trees in someone’s honor, which is a truly special and unique gift to give.
Trees are beautiful, long-lasting and thoughtful gifts sure to make any recipient smile both during the holiday season and long after Christmas has passed. Recipients are sure to appreciate the time invested in researching and selecting the right one for them.
This pewter chicken jam spoon (pictured above) features a hook to hang it from the rim of a jam jar, keeping fingers sticky-free.
Kids’ Chore Classic Muck Boots
The Kids’ Chore Classic from Muck Boots is a lightweight, 100 percent-waterproof boot featuring a durable quick-cleaning outsole, full neoprene bootie and easy on/off tabs. It includes a molded PU insert with memory foam and a bioDEWIX™ footbed to control odor and manage moisture. The boots come in a chicken print and sizes 8 to 13 (little kids) and 1 to 6 (big kids).
Garlic Apple Cider Vinegar
This raw, unfiltered apple cider vinegar is infused with garlic. Stronger than what you’d buy in the grocery, this water additive is purported to boost overall chicken health by aiding digestion and providing bacteria that support development.
HomeoPet Avian Nose Relief
HomeoPet Avian Nose Relief can help chickens that have runny noses, watery eyes, sneezing or low energy; it can also assist with beak rubbing. Easy to use with all-natural ingredients, simply dose medicine in their water.
Reminder Magnet
This reminder magnet (which can also be hung with your own hardware) lets you turn the dial to indicate “in” or “out” so everyone in your family know if your chickens are in—or should be.
MitesBGone
MitesBGone is an herbal additive for nesting boxes, coop bedding and dust baths that prevents and repels mites and lice. This sweet-smelling mix includes basil, garlic, peppermint, rosemary and spearmint.
Chicken Catch-All Trays
Made from maple, walnut and cherry woods, buy these chicken catch-all trays for a flock afficionado to store anything from change to sweet treats. Personalization is available.
Chicken Decoration
Top your tree, decorate a candlestick or lamp with this chicken decoration. The bendable wire on the back allows you to position, attach and wrap nearly anywhere.
In my cookbook WECK Home Preserving, I have a chapter of homemade recipes you can make that don’t require any canning or fermenting. Most are refrigerated or just stored at room temperature. Many of the recipes included make wonderful homemade gifts.
If you’re a fan of making handmade holiday gifts, then consider making some flavored salt to gift this year. Nearly one year ago, I shared a recipe for how to make roasted garlic salt. Roasted garlic salt is my very favorite flavored salt to make. We use it nearly every day. But with the method I share below, you’ll be able to mix up any flavor combinations your heart desires.
Flavored salt is a simple way to add a pop of flavor when cooking, baking and/or cocktail mixing. Some of our other preferred flavors include chive salt, rosemary salt and lime salt.
Yield: 1/4 cup finished salt
Ingredients
1/4 cup coarse kosher salt
Seasoning Options
1 tsp. fresh organic citrus, finely grate the peel (wash and dry fruit first)
1 tsp. dried herbs, crushed
1 tsp. fresh ginger, finely grated
1 tsp. sriracha sauce
Directions
In a small bowl, mix together salt with the ingredient(s) of choice and stir well.
Use a funnel to transfer the salt into a clean jar. If using fresh/wet ingredients, leave the cover off of the jar overnight. Stir the mixture again the following day, then add the lid and tightly secure it on.
Allow the mixture to infuse with the flavors for a day or two, as the flavor will intensify as it infuses with the salt.
Label and date the jar and keep out of direct sunlight.
Notes
The flavor intensity will weaken over time. This is why I make small batches as needed.
If you want a finer salt, blend it down or break it down with a mortar and pestle.
This recipe has been adapted and shared from Thurow’s book WECK Home Preserving with permission from Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.
Chickens and other poultry members come in all sizes, shapes, colors and personalities. Nearly 400 recognized breeds and varieties of poultry exist, including large fowl and bantam chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys and guinea fowl. Using our illustration and a few selected hints, can you guess which mystery chicken breed we have depicted here?
Find out the answer below.
Hints
This breed is one of the oldest breeds of domesticated poultry, originally brought to Great Britain by the Romans with Julius Caesar.
This unique, very rare breed of chicken has a long body on short legs and a fifth toe.
Although they’re known for meat production, they’re a dual-purpose breed. Females lay between 150 to 180 medium-sized cream eggs per year and are somewhat likely to set.
Their “nerdy” name comes from a market town in Surrey in South East England.
Murray McMurray carries the Silver Gray variety. Males are a combination of silvery white and black. Females are an ashy gray and white.
Mystery Breed Answer
The breed depicted above is the Dorking.
The Dorking is an ancient, dual-purpose chicken breed that comes in an array of colors not recognized by the American Poultry Association, including Black, Cuckoo and Speckled.
Standard Dorking cocks weigh about 9 pounds and hens weigh 7 pounds. Single-combed bantam cocks weigh 36 ounces and hens weigh 32 ounces, while the rose-combed bantams weigh about 6 to 8 ounces less.
Roosters of the single-comb variety have large combs that stand upright. Hens’ medium-sized combs fall jauntily to one side. Rose-combed varieties have large rose combs that are square in the front and liberally dotted with spikes and small rounded points.
Dorkings are sweet, gentle chickens that bear confinement well, but they’re also outstanding foragers.
This mystery chicken breed feature originally appeared in the Nov./Dec. 2023 issue of Chickens magazine. Brought to you by Murray McMurray Hatchery, which provides the highest quality poultry and auxiliary products to its customers and has been a trusted, knowledgeable industry resource for more than 100 years. Whether you are an experienced or novice enthusiast, Murray McMurray is sure you’ll enjoy its wide selection of breeds and supplies to assist you with raising your flock!
Sheep play a special role in Jane Lauber’s world. Based in Yarrambat in the state of Victoria in Australia, Lauber heads up the Valais Blacknose Sheep family farm, where she specializes in raising an irresistibly charming breed that she dubs the “world’s cutest sheep.”
Beyond the Valais Blacknose’s eye-catching looks, it turns out that establishing the heritage breed in Australia was something of an administrative trial—and Lauber’s original inspiration behind tracking down some Valais Blacknose came about after receiving heartwrenching family news.
We spoke to Lauber about her sheep-centric roots and the personality of the Valais Blacknose breed. We also got into the benefits of raising sheep in pairs.
Growing up on a mixed farm in Devon, Lauber recalls earning her pocket money by caring for baby lambs who couldn’t be reared by their mothers.
“I absolutely adored it, and then I progressed to rearing the calves as well,” says Lauber. “I would be furious if dad didn’t wake me when he did the 2 o’clock round to check the sheep and I slept through to 6. He knew I needed to sleep to get to school, but I would always try and make the middle-of-the-night rounds.”
Lauber’s path to raising Valais Blacknose sheep began when she received the traumatic news that her daughter, Sue, was diagnosed with brain cancer. “We were sitting in the lounge room one afternoon, after her daily treatments, watching television when I saw a program about these sheep,” says Lauber. “I said to Sue we should get some for the 8 acres I had just bought.”
Lauber adds that after her daughter was first diagnosed, she sold all her business interests “to be with her, so these sheep just looked so adorable I thought it might be a nice interest for us.”
After Lauber set about attempting to import some of the “stunning sheep” into Australia from the United Kingdom, she quickly came across a series of tricky import regulations.
“We had to pass requirements of Department of Agriculture and all the quarantine requirements,” she explains. “You cannot import live sheep to Australia because we do not have some of the terrible diseases that other countries do. Having accepted that, I started the paperwork chase.”
Ultimately, Lauber found a workaround that took over three years and involved acquiring sheep in Switzerland and sending them to the United Kingdom “to have embryos made and also semen straws and then finally imported them into Australia.”
When it comes to the personality of Valais Blacknose sheep, Lauber says she wasn’t prepared for just how amiable and entertaining the breed is. “They are naturally so friendly and brave and inquisitive,” she says. “They just follow you around like a dog. They want you to pat them and play with them all day long.”
To that end, two of Lauber’s flock, Adam and Arnie, enjoy popping along to a local cafe on their leashes.
“I recommend these sheep to anyone who loves animals and wants a friendly, hardy and easy-to-handle pet,” says Lauber when advocating for the benefits of raising Valais Blacknose sheep. “I will only sell two together unless they already have another suitable pet. They are very expensive because it has cost a fortune for me to get them here—but it also means they should be well treated by new owners.”
This article was excerpted from Growing an Edible Gardenby Gary Pilarchik, Chiara D’Amore, PhD, published by Cool Springs Press.
Sheet mulching is an inexpensive, natural way to prepare areas to become gardens. The basic idea is to use thick layers of natural materials (paper, cardboard, compost, etc.) to block sunlight from whatever plants you want to replace (grass, “weeds,” etc.). These will die off in a way that nourishes the health of your soil and creates the foundation for the plants you want to grow. In warmer areas, the best time of year to sheet mulch is the fall, so everything can decompose over the winter, or the spring right before things start to green up. It takes about six months for areas you have sheet mulched to be optimal for new planting if you need to dig into the ground.
Once you have identified the area you want to sheet mulch (along a foundation or fence, at the base of raised beds, etc.), the items you will need for the project include:
Lawn mower or weed wacker—to get plants down to a low level
Tools—wheelbarrow, shovel, rake, spading fork or garden knife, etc.
Biodegradable weed barrier—newspaper or cardboard
Brown mulch—leaves, straw, wood chips
You can likely obtain both the weed barrier and the brown mulch at your local recycling center or by asking community members to share their landfill-bound resources with you. You might even be able to borrow the tools. Once you have all of your supplies handy, including a source of water, the following are the steps for sheet mulching:
Get low: Using your lawn mower or weed wacker (depending on what you are trying to get rid of), cut the existing plants down to the lowest level. You don’t want them to grow back, so cutting them all the way down is helpful to your process. Leave any grass clippings as part of the natural mulch, but if you have plants like thistle that you want to get rid of, be careful to remove seed heads so they don’t sprout right back. If you have woody plants that need to be removed from the area you are sheet mulching, pull them out by hand or dig them out with a shovel, trying to remove as much of the root base as possible. This is the time to get rocks or branches out of the area too so you have a smooth surface for the next step.
Support the soil: If the area you are working in has compacted soil, you can use a spading fork to gently loosen the soil and make holes for nutrients to enter. You shouldn’t till or turn over your soil because it disrupts the soil ecosystem, which you are working to enhance with sheet mulching. If you are planning to put bigger plants into your new garden area (fruiting shrubs or trees), you can put them in at this time and then mulch around them so you aren’t digging through all the layers of the sheet mulch later.
Layer away: The biggest part of the project is to create the layers of organic matter—the sheets, or the lasagna layers if it helps to think about it that way:
Evenly spread about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of compost, leaves or straw on the ground. This will attract worms and beneficial insects to help loosen up the soil. Spray the whole area with water to help kickstart the process of decomposition and help the next layer stick.
Lay out thick layers of newspaper or cardboard (at least 3/4 inch [2 cm] thick) over the entire area to create a weed barrier. It is really important to substantially overlap the edges of your paper product so there are no gaps that allow sunlight to get through and encourage your old ground cover to grow back. Also make sure that you have removed glossy pages from the newspaper and tape from cardboard (don’t use glossy or wax-covered cardboard at all), since these elements don’t decompose well. Spray the whole area with water again.
Evenly cover the weed barrier layer with 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of compost, which will help the decomposition process and support soil health.
Add an even layer of 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) of organic material such as leaves or wood chips. This layer helps ensure that light doesn’t penetrate to the ground, and it supports beneficial microorganisms. At this point your mulch layer should be about 8 inches (20 cm) tall. Water it one more time and wait!
If it is important to add some visual appeal to the area while the sheet mulching is doing its work, you can add a couple of inches of compost to the top and add small plants into the space, using a gardening knife to cut small holes in the paper layer so the roots have a way to access the soil.
Raccoons are found throughout the United States and dwell in every setting, from rural farmland and woods to suburban areas, including New York City. Nicknamed the “super predator,” these masked creatures will do just about anything to get a meal, including scaling the tallest fences, unlatching and opening coop doors, and eating resting poultry through chicken wire.
Protecting our flocks from becoming victims of predator attacks should be one of the poultry owner’s biggest priorities. But how do you keep your flock from falling prey to your neighborhood raccoons?
Predator Proofing
The best way to prevent raccoons from attacking your flock is by predator-proofing your coop and run. Raccoons are extremely intelligent, take care to cover any opening larger than 1/2 inch.
When protecting your flock from raccoons, no measure is too extreme. So, let’s get started predator-proofing!
Climbing
Like children, raccoons love to climb, and they will use their human-like hands to scale any fence or tree. Raccoons aren’t scared of heights and will scale the highest fences for their meal. Covering the top of your run with 1/2-inch, 16-gauge PVC heavy wire will keep raccoons from gaining access to the run through the roof.
Another way to prevent raccoons from turning your run into their playground is by locking your birds in a coop or barn every day before dusk. If predators can’t see the poultry, they are less likely to try to gain access to the run. Even if poultry are locked in an enclosure at night, care should be taken to cover the top of the run with PVC-coated 1/2-inch, 16-gauge hardware cloth to protect the flock from daytime and nocturnal predators.
Hardware Cloth
Raccoons are excellent at chewing and biting through chicken wire, tearing a big enough hole to squeeze through, and gaining access to the coop and run. Another downside to chicken wire is that the 1-inch hole is big enough for a raccoon to reach their paw through, grab resting chickens and eat them through the fence.
Covering runs and any gaps larger than 1/2 an inch with PVC-coated 1/2-inch, 16-gauge hardware cloth is the best way to prevent raccoons from chewing and biting the wire or grabbing unsuspecting hens. Also, cover any window or screens with 1/2-inch hardware cloth to prevent raccoons from ripping screens to gain access to the coop or barn.
Cement Floors
While raccoons are less skilled at digging than they are with climbing and chewing, they can still gain access to the coop or run by digging underneath the perimeter. Building a structure with a cement floor or purchasing a cement slab to rest your coop on is one of the best ways to protect your flock.
With a sturdy cement floor, there is no need to worry about predators digging or chewing through the floor to gain access to your flock. Even though many poultry keepers prefer more cost-effective wood flooring, the peace of mind with a cement floor is worth every penny.
Predator Skirts
Attaching PVC-coated 3/4-inch 16-gauge hardware cloth to the bottom outside perimeter of your coop and run will prevent digging predators from accessing your flock. These predator skirts are one of the best ways to keep raccoons out and your flock safe.
Lock the Doors
Unlike any other predator, raccoons are so intelligent they can unlock and open coop and barn doors. Many poultry owners prefer to use something different than bolt and hook-and-eye locks, as raccoons can easily open these fasteners. Using padlocks to secure all doors, including pop holes and nesting boxes, is the only way to prevent raccoons from accessing the coop through a door.
Goodbye Raccoons!
Even though raccoons are one of the biggest threats to backyard flocks, extreme measures to eradicate them from your backyard are not usually necessary. However, some deterrents can help deter them from visiting your backyard.
Wind Chimes
Raccoons dislike wind chimes, so hanging some around or near your coop and run is one of the best ways to deter raccoons from visiting your coop and run.
Dogs
Having your dog tag along with you as you do chores is another way to deter raccoons. If a raccoon smells that a dog frequents the area, they are less likely to visit.
Predator Urine
Spreading predator urine around the perimeter of the coop or run can prevent raccoons from wanting to inhabit the area.
Avoiding Common Mistakes
Unfortunately, many chickens fall prey to predator attacks due to several common chicken-keeping practices, including:
Allowing poultry to free-range, especially at dawn or dusk
Failing to lock poultry in a predator-proofed coop and run at night
Leaving feeders and spilled feed in the run or coop at night
A raccoon attack can happen during daylight or at night, so always be on your guard. Protecting your flock from a raccoon attack is possible with some know-how and common sense. Remember, no protection is too extreme when protecting your flock from raccoons and other predators.
Though poultry-keepers are often taught how to ward off predators and how to keep their chickens healthy, end-of-life issues (and options) are often left out of the chicken-care conversations. However, being able to recognize the signs when chickens are ill or close to an end-of-life scenario is of critical importance—especially if other members of the flock may be at risk. How keepers manage end-of-life events and how chickens are handled if they pass is also instrumental to flock biosecurity.
Healthy vs. Unhealthy
Though the lifespan of chickens can vary widely by breed and care, a good estimate is that most hens will live between 4 and 8 years. However, it’s not unusual for backyard birds that have no genetic issues to live to between 10 and 12 years old.
A healthy bird should be alert, with bright eyes, combs and wattles. Its nostrils should be clean and feathers should be smooth. The bird should stand upright and be interested in its surroundings, as well as eat, drink and produce waste regularly.
It follows, then, that an unhealthy bird would be the opposite of those listed previously. It may cough or sneeze, or you might be able to hear it breathing or gasping. The bird may shake its head and have discharge from its eyes or nose, and its wings may look dirty. Sick chickens tend to wipe their nostrils on their wings. Its face or wattles may be swollen, or it may have a bluish cast to its face.
Any of these can indicate that the bird has a respiratory infection.
Though most of these signs are obvious, a sick chicken may offer only subtle—if any—clues that it isn’t feeling well. It may hide, not eat well, have lower egg production, stand oddly, have unusual droppings or be lethargic. Any of these symptoms warrant a closer look at your chicken.
It can be a challenge for a backyard bird owner to recognize signs of disease as chickens are quite good at hiding when they’re ill, especially during an end-of-life issue. “Unless the chicken is outwardly sick, you may not know they are dying,” says Jacquie Jacob, poultry extension associate in the department of animal and food sciences at University of Kentucky.
“Chickens can take a lot of pain without showing signs. The outward symptoms [the chicken is showing] will depend on the cause of the heath problem. For example, if they have a reproductive blockage or some cause of abdominal fluid buildup, the chicken will walk like a penguin. In general, the first sign of [any chicken] illness is not eating.”
Jacob notes that not eating could also be the result of having no available water. Chickens won’t eat if they can’t drink.
Laura Сrazy/Adobe Stock
Isolate, Hydrate, Diagnose
So what should you do with an unhealthy hen?
Isolate
Removing an unwell chicken from the flock will prevent it from being bullied by other flock members and protect the flock from what could be a contagious disease. It will also allow for closer observation of the ill bird. The chicken should be moved to a warm environment that offers protection from predators and other flock members.
Hydrate
While offering a chicken water is helpful, a sick chicken may require more intense management. Water may need to be provided by spoon or eyedropper to encourage her to drink. A chicken that can’t drink cannot regulate the most basic of needs, like adjusting body temperature or eliminating waste.
Diagnose
If possible, try to determine what ails the chicken. Though many chicken owners don’t have access to a veterinarian who is comfortable with birds, a simple internet search of trusted websites may shed some light on the problem. However, the cause of the illness may remain undetermined.
“Unfortunately, most diseases [in chickens] are diagnosed by necropsy, which is not useful,” Jacob says.
If a Chicken Doesn’t Rally
If a chicken goes more than a day or two without improving, Jacob notes that euthanasia may be the way to go. A chicken sick for that long rarely returns to full health. Though certainly not enjoyable to think about, all animal owners—including poultry owners—should have a plan in place should the animal become sick or injured beyond repair. Many backyard flock owners don’t have veterinarians who can assist with euthanasia, so the goal is to end the chicken’s life as quickly and as painlessly as possible.
For most hobby enthusiasts, this involves either wringing (not breaking) the neck or decapitation. Quickly and forcefully wringing the neck causes cervical dislocation, where the spinal cord severs and recoils, causing brain damage (unconsciousness). This is the most humane method of euthanasia for chickens at home, Jacob says. The most important part in the act is to make the bird unconscious, meaning the bird can feel no pain. Anything that happens after this (death) is moot.
Death by decapitation is often more difficult for backyard flock owners, though both decapitation and wringing the neck can be challenging for a chicken owner to do. If either of these end-of-life options seem unattainable, reach out to other owners of chickens in the area to see if they may be willing to assist when the time comes. Though difficult to think about, it’s imperative that a plan be in place, so the chicken doesn’t suffer.
If a deceased chicken is on the property—either because it was discovered or killed—something must be done with the carcass. If a hen is found dead, immediately remove it from the coop or run if other chickens have access to the body. Though it may seem like overkill, donning protective gloves to remove a feathered friend from the coop is necessary for effective biosecurity to keep the other chickens safe.
kozorog/Adobe Stock
Disposal
Proper disposal of a chicken carcass directly relates to the cause of death. Unfortunately, unless there are outward signs (often of predation or disease), it can be difficult to know what caused the chicken’s death.
If an infectious disease of any kind is suspected, chicken owners (even hobby poultry owners) should reach out to an extension agent, local veterinarian, the state veterinarian or the USDA to determine what should be done with the carcass. USDA can be reached at 866-536-7593. It should be reiterated that a chicken found dead should not be consumed.
A chicken that has died of natural—or at least unknown—causes can still be a bit of a conundrum as disposal of animal carcasses can vary by county and city. To get an idea of what is acceptable, reach out to a local extension agent or to the municipal waste station for guidance.
Options for Disposal
Burying
Though a chicken might seem small in comparison to larger livestock like horses and cows, there may still be local laws regarding burying it, often with regards to the depth of the local water table, location of water sources like ponds and streams, or how many structures are on the land. Additionally, the location of where electric, gas, water or cable lines can also be a concern when attempting to bury a chicken (if unsure where these are located on the property, call the respective companies before digging the hole).
If it’s determined that burying is appropriate, bury the hen several hundred feet (or as far as possible) from the coop where other chickens reside. This is of particular importance if parasite overloads, mites or lice are suspected to have played a role in the chicken’s demise. Chickens are omnivores and as such will scavenge a carcass if available, potentially ingesting worms or other parasites.
The hole should be at minimum 3 feet deep and the soil should be tightly packed around the body to prevent predators like raccoons and dogs from smelling and unearthing the body.
schankz/Adobe Stock
Burning
Burning a dead chicken in a firepit or burn pile is an acceptable means of getting rid of the carcass. Though it will smell unpleasant, this method will ensure that no parasites or diseases transfer to other chickens or wild birds.
Sending to a Landfill
Though often not an ideal resting spot for a favorite hen, in many areas of the United States, urban and suburban waste facilities allow for dead animals (including chickens) to be placed in the trash. Often the body must be double- or triple-bagged, so it’s wise to find out what’s acceptable ahead of time.
Composting
Chickens that reach an end-of-life event due to natural causes can be added to a household composter, which must be properly designed and managed to minimize odor and destroy pathogens. A dead chicken provides nitrogen, so it must be balanced with carbon materials like paper, straw or cornstalks. The correct amount of moisture in the composter is critical for proper breakdown of the carcass and to avoid any unpleasant smells. When done correctly, composting should be completed in about a week after adding the dead chicken.
Cremating
Some veterinary offices will offer cremation services for a fee. Determine beforehand if the ashes will be received or will remain with the clinic for disposal. This means of removal will incur a fee.
Incinerating
Incineration at a university or state veterinary diagnostic laboratory (often after necropsy to determine cause of death) is the preferred method of carcass disposal if disease is suspected.
Though the loss of a chicken can be emotional, having a plan (or plans) for how to deal with the body can alleviate some of the immediate stress, allowing owners time and space to grieve.
More Information
Vaccination & Medication
While owners of other livestock are used to vaccinating their animals, backyard poultry owners are often not afforded that option to prevent illness for a variety of reasons, including lack of access to veterinarians familiar with poultry, expense or negligence of disease susceptibility.
Poultry owners should consider vaccination if they show their poultry or if they routinely introduce new birds to the flock, either from auctions or other sources. Additionally, if owners often allow unfamiliar people to handle birds, or if the flock has a history of disease, immunization should be considered. A veterinarian can provide guidance on which vaccines to administer based on the flock’s location and susceptibility.
Though respiratory diseases are common in poultry, they’re often nonspecific in backyard flocks and come on as the seasons change. Often birds will cough or sneeze, but they’ll continue to eat and drink.
Medications are often unnecessary, and the illness will resolve on its own in seven to 10 days. However, if treatment is desired, most birds can be treated with a tetracycline antibiotic, which can shorten symptom length by about half.
It’s important that only medications approved for laying hens be used and that their directives for administration are followed, says Jacquie Jacob, poultry extension associate in the department of animal and food sciences at University of Kentucky.Though these medications were previously available over the counter, they now require a veterinarian’s prescription to obtain.
This article originally appeared in the November/December 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.
Are you thinking of adding a pole saw to your tool shed? If you regularly find yourself pruning trees, then don’t hesitate to make the investment.
From selectively pruning fruit trees to removing dead lower branches from tall coniferous trees, a pole saw allows you to trim otherwise out-of-reach branches without using a ladder.
Here are five questions to ask when shopping for a pole saw.
1. Powered or Manual?
The biggest decision to make is whether to opt for a power saw or a manual saw.
A manual saw is simply a saw blade at the end of the pole. You’ll slice through branches by pulling and pushing the pole back and forth in a sawing motion. In contrast, a powered saw uses a gasoline engine or battery to power a chainsaw that does the cutting for you.
The simplicity of a power saw is appealing—you don’t need chain oil, and there isn’t an engine to maintain or a battery to charge. I use a manual pole saw, and it’s pleasantly lightweight. But a manual pole saw (like any manual saw) can be tiring to operate, so users who have a lot of branches to trim may want to opt for a powered model.
2. Gas or Electric?
If you’re looking to buy a powered pole saw, you’ll have to decide whether you want a gas or electric model. Gasoline engines offer lots of power and can be quickly refueled if your engine runs dry on the job, but like any small engine they require maintenance, put out exhaust fumes, and are noisy to use.
An electric pole saw gets away from those negatives, but you may sacrifice some power, especially on smaller models. And if the battery runs out, you’ll have to interrupt your project while the battery recharges. You may want to invest in multiple batteries to alleviate that concern.
3. How Long Is the Pole?
The whole point of a pole saw is to be able to trim high branches while standing securely on the ground. So how high are the branches you need to trim? Measure the height before buying a pole saw to ensure the model you purchase is long enough.
The length of the pole will likely be adjustable, but the maximum length is the number you’re mainly interested in. If you’ll be cutting branches 16 feet above the ground, an 8-foot pole saw is going to be too short, but a 13-foot model should suffice (since you’ll be holding the saw several feet above the ground).
4. Can I Trade the Saw for Other Attachments?
Some power pole saws are more versatile than first meets the eye. You can remove the chainsaw from the end and attach other tools instead—for example, a string trimmer or hedge trimmer. This way, a single gasoline engine or electric motor can be used to power multiple tools, saving you money and maintenance.
5. Does It Come with a Built-in Pruner?
My manual pole saw has a bonus feature: a bypass pruning lopper triggered by pulling a rope from ground level. It’s a quick and easy way to trim small branches—all I have to do is hook the pruner over the branch and pull the rope. It’s less tiring to use than the saw, and it works great when reaching high to trim flexible branches that won’t saw easily, as you might when pruning the top of a fruit tree.
Keep these five questions in mind, and you’ll soon find the perfect saw for your tree-pruning needs.
As more of us join the homesteading world, we’re making investments in better quality and longer lasting items for our homes. I know I’d rather stir a soup made with my homegrown veggies with a non-toxic, sustainable wooden spoon than a plastic, throw-away item.
This also means that many of us are learning how to take care of natural products for the first time. And wood naturally dries out over time, so we must do something to keep it from cracking.
Enter spoon butter, the simple mixture of oil and beeswax to help condition and seal our wooden kitchen tools and cutting boards. While this recipe has just two ingredients, both those ingredients need to be top quality!
Ingredient 1: Wax
I love using local beeswax for this and usually have some extra around for making herbal salves and body butters.
Beeswax is an inert substance on its own, so it doesn’t have any specific benefits when consumed directly. Beeswax is produced by specialized glands on honeybees. They mix it with their saliva and other enzymes. This process creates an antibacterial, adhesive substance that not only holds together bee hives but is the perfect thickener for so many safe and healthy homemade products.
You can also use carnauba wax, which comes from the leaves of a type of palm tree, if you want to keep a vegan kitchen. Just make sure it is pure wax with no additives.
Ingredient 2: Oil
There are a few different oils that do well as conditioners. The main thing is to keep them 100 percent pure and organic. You’ll also want to stay away from mineral oils as they tend to be processed in a way that can leech toxins over time.
I have used both coconut and sunflower oil for this recipe. I prefer coconut oil for the smell and way it leaves the spoons and cutting boards. I have also seen flaxseed oil recommended for this project. Always look for unrefined options if possible.
Recipe
Use one part beeswax to three parts coconut oil (or 2.5 parts sunflower oil).
Heat the beeswax in a double boiler until just melted. I make my double boiler from a Pyrex measuring cup hung over the edge of a pot, just make sure at least half the measuring cup is under water to heat well. Keeping the melting process low and slow helps keep the intrinsic benefits of the raw beeswax.
Once warmed and melted, mix together. This recipe will cool to a paste-like consistency. Wait until fully cooled to the place lid on.
You can slather on a thick layer and let it set overnight, wiping off any excess in the morning. I keep my jar of spoon butter handy and use it on utensils as needed. But I also try to condition all my wood pieces at least once every winter.
Store the jar of spoon butter in a cool, dark place (I keep mine in my pantry) and it will last 12 or more months.
Enjoy! I love being able to use this natural product to keep my homestead kitchen running smoothly.