Are you obsessed with cattle? Black and white or a beautiful fawn color, a full-sized dairy cow or a small Dexter—do you love them all? Do you jump on the chance to buy almost any cow print item you find? Do you collect cow pictures and items to put in your house? Do you look for people to talk about cows with? Do you get over-the-moon excited at the thought of purchasing a new cow?
If you answered “yes” to many of these questions … you might be cow-obsessed.
But don’t worry, I’m not here to convert you. In fact, I’m here to help you with your cattle obsession. Stick with me pal, and I’ll give you some suggestions on just how you can feed and grow that obsession.
Here are some fun and wacky suggestions (mixed in with some serious ones) for those longing for the day they can bring their first cow or calf home.
Go Vintage!
If you love to shop and collect cow-related pieces, why not go skip the mainstream home decor stores and instead hit the flea markets and thrift shops for some unique items? Look for not only actual cow pieces but vintage pictures such as counted cross-stitch scenes.
I have a picture hanging by my kitchen door right now that came from my grandma and features a group of cows on it. Look for something unique and that’s not being sold in mass quantity at a big name store—a piece that not everybody else is putting up a copy of in their home!
Make a Plan
I can be rather chicken-obsessed at times and recently I’ve been enjoying browsing through breeds on a hatchery website while I pick out which ones I hope to order come spring.
When it comes to cattle though, it’s a much larger scale operation than a handful of chickens! It’s best to have a plan in mind before you actually purchase and start raising them. Even if you’re not intending to purchase cattle anytime soon, it can be helpful to at least iron out a few basics of what you’re looking for from your herd. It can be not only fun to daydream about, but the more time you spend processing and planning for it now, the smoother it might hopefully go in the future!
Keep in mind some of these basic questions:
What is the purpose for your animal? Meat, dairy or even just companionship?
How many head can you reasonably handle?
What kind of facilities do you have for them?
Will they have adequate space to graze?
What will you feed them?
How will you doctor and treat them when they fall ill or injured?
Pick a Name
Don’t laugh (okay, fine, laugh if you want to), but keep in mind that when you walk out to the pasture and holler this name, other people may or may not be around you. It might be a good idea to give the name a little extra consideration before you just label your bovine friend with it for the rest of their life on your farm. Of course, it’s also good to wait to fully pick one out until you can look at the animal and really see what fits its personality.
Here are some cow-friendly name suggestions:
Speckles
Spot
Mabel
Gerty
Shorty
Sugar
Bella
Sweetie
Betsy
Whitey
Socks
Fuzzy
Begin Collecting Supplies
Years ago, I was horse crazy. I didn’t even have a horse, but I had old halters and some bits that I had managed to get at a farm auction or somewhere. I had them lined up in an old shed, just dreaming of the day when I could finally have a horse. And you know what? I did eventually get one!
While I don’t know that I ever actually used any of those old pieces, having them around was one way that I could be a little closer to my own horse.
But if you have plans to own cattle in the future, what if you started preparing for them now? Why not start picking up a few supplies here and there at reasonable prices (and maybe even some bargains!)? As you check out local farm auctions or places where farm supplies can be found, keep your eyes open for things like:
Good feed buckets
Feeders
Large halter and lead rope (if needed)
Fencing supplies
Calf bottles
Sorting sticks
Check out the Books
There is so much information to be found in quality livestock books. Even if you just pick a topic that interests you and start reading through it, take some time to educate yourself on things that you don’t fully understand.
If you can’t buy a cow right now, see if there’s someone local that would let you come to their ranch or homestead. Get a chance to watch the herd of cattle and ask some questions. Soak in all of the knowledge and experience you can!
One of these days, you might just step out the back door to find your bovine friend grazing contentedly in the back pasture. Until then, keep learning and daydreaming abut cattle. Do your best to make the most of your time now, before the chores start!
Sustainable garden design, regenerative gardening, permaculture design, natural gardening … all of these practices are rooted in observing nature and build garden strategies by working within ecosystems. My work is in ecosystem design, which is about understanding the natural principles that make wild and natural landscapes (ecosystems), such as woodlands and meadows, successful. These wild systems are regenerative and resilient, helping to self-regulate fertility and pests while creating a wealth of resources that are sustainable into the future.
We can mimic (or emulate) these natural principles in our gardens and properties through ecosystem design to help us grow sustainably. These principles are applied to the context of your typical modern garden and landscape as efficient and sustainable gardening practices.
When we observe wild ecosystems—such as woodlands, grasslands or wetlands—we can see similarities (and natural principles) in all of them. These can guide our design for gardens, landscapes and farms. We will look at the major ecosystem principles that are found around the world in wild ecosystems and discuss how these translate to garden practices.
Ecosystem Design Basics
Some of the obstacles gardeners face include those pervasive issues of weeds, pests, water and yields. Most gardens are also organized for short-term productivity. Annual inputs of fertility and regular irrigation during times of drought are necessary to keep the garden growing.
Ecosystem design is about creating a garden that is self-regulating and healthy. A garden with soil that is alive with beneficial organisms is best able to fix, store and release nutrients on its own (without adding more fertilizer). Similarly, an ecosystem approach to garden soil management makes your soil more able to hold water in droughts as well as drain water better in flood-type rain events.
But ecosystem design is not just about soil. These sustainable gardening practices also diversify backyards yields, ensuring you have more variety in your garden—more than just annuals. These practices emphasize maximizing a property’s square footage with a layered approach to design that includes canopies of fruit trees with berries and annual vegetables growing in between.
Whether you want to apply ecosystem design to your annual vegetable garden, a perennial orchard or some integration of both, these sustainable gardening practices in your backyard are sure to increase your yields and reduce weed, water and pest issues.
Using ecosystem design for gardening is about the principles found in permaculture and natural gardening, not simply purchasing products labeled “sustainable” or “green.” Over my next few articles, we’ll look at six of the most important of these principles, starting with biodiversity.
Biodiversity Is Key
All ecosystems are biodiverse, meaning they have many different life forms that occupy the landscape. As gardeners we can integrate biodiversity into our gardens in a number of ways.
For starters, we can maximize underutilized spaces to achieve more diversity. As an example, we can use ground covers like creeping thyme in our paths between raised garden beds. We can also include various herbs and ground covers as an understory under fruit trees. Ideal flowers and herbs include lemon balm, chives and echinacea.
Increasing the diversity in our garden means we don’t put all our eggs in one basket (so to speak) if there is a pest problem. We are less likely to have pest issues when there is more diversity to confuse pests and act as a habitat for predatory insects.
Biodiversity is a critical principle for sustainable ecosystem design, but it’s just one of a handful of cornerstone practices. Stay tuned for future articles covering more key concepts to practice in your ecosystem gardens.
With holiday gatherings and events at every turn, it seems sweets, savory foods and boozy cocktails are almost always available. If you’re anything like me, you may find yourself indulging a bit more often this time of year. That being said, it’s important to keep your gut health in mind.
I personally try to eat or drink something fermented every day. Having kvass on hand is an easy way to keep up with good behavior. Aside from the healthy belly bacteria that kvass offers, beets and turmeric are known for reducing inflammation, which I feel everyone can benefit from (especially this time of year).
Yield: 1 quart jar
Ingredients
3 to 4 small tender organic golden beets, cut into 2-inch chunks (skin on)
4 inches or so of fresh organic turmeric (skin on), coined
1 tsp. coarse kosher salt
Water, as needed
Instructions
Wash beets, scrub well, trim off ends and greens, and cut into uniform chunks, about 2-inch squares. Scrub turmeric well, cut into coins about 1/2-inch thick. Fill a clean quart jar with beets, ginger and salt (the jar should be at least half full). Fill with cold water, leaving 1 to 2 inches of headspace (top of the water level to the rim of the jar). Stir well.
If you have a small fermentation jar weight, add it to the jar to keep the ingredients completely submerged under the brine. Remove any small pieces of produce that float up to the top of the brine, as produce above the brine will increase the risk of the ferment spoiling. Wipe off the rim of the jar with a clean dampened towel. Add the canning jar lid and tightly screw on the ring.
Fermentation
This is a four- to-six-day ferment. Ferment at room temperature, ideally between 60 and 75 degrees F (15 to 23 degrees C) and keep out of direct sunlight.
Check on the ferment daily to make sure that the brine is covering all the produce. If the produce has floated above the brine level, use a clean utensil to push it back below the brine or scoop it out.
Burp the jar daily. Just unscrew the lid briefly and tighten it back on to allow any built-up gas to release (and avoid possible jar breakage or the ferment from overflowing).
This is an active ferment. Foam-like bubbling after a day or two of fermentation is totally normal and a sign that things are fermenting along just as they should be.
Ferment until the beet kvass liquid turns to a golden color. Taste test to determine completion (the flavor should be tangy and earthy). Once done to your liking, transfer to the refrigerator and enjoy within three weeks.
To Serve
Beet kvass is best chilled. Drink a small glass between meals to aid in digestion.
Side Notes
If you do not have a glass jar weight, you can improvise by using an easily removable small food-grade glass dish that fits inside the jar. Or, if you have a smaller glass canning jar that can fit into the mouth of the jar you are fermenting with, you can use that to keep the produce pushed under the beet kvass brine.
The following excerpt is fromThe Winter Market Gardener(New Society Publishers, October 2023) by Jean-Martin Fortier and Catherine Sylvestre.
In winter, plant growth slows, water uptake tapers off, and the work related to crop irrigation winds down. That’s the good news. The bad news is that irrigation in very cold weather is a real challenge in unheated greenhouses. Water freezes in conduits, which can lead to significant damage (e.g., valves bursting or irrigation lines freezing). To successfully supply water to unheated shelters, the easiest solution is to install an antifreeze hydrant inside the greenhouse (also known as a frost-free hydrant or anti-siphon faucet). This faucet needs to be connected to a water line buried at a depth of 5 feet (1.5 m), lying below the frost line. When we open the valve, water rises in the pipe and we can irrigate crops despite below-freezing temperatures. When we close the valve, the water drops back down into the pipe, below the frost line. This freeze-proofing feature keeps water from sitting in the valve, which is the main cause of frost damage in an irrigation system. Installing this valve requires excavation work, but it is essential. When irrigating an unheated shelter without an antifreeze hydrant, valves must constantly be purged—and the threat of damage is always looming.
The type of irrigation system you select, either drip or sprinkler, needs to take into account the likelihood of freezing temperatures. If the shelter is unheated, drip irrigation is the best choice. Make sure to install connectors properly to prevent water from pooling and stagnating. Irrigation lines in a drip system can handle some expansion in below-freezing temperatures and are less likely to break. Easy to maintain, the drip system is a highly effective solution for many vegetables. It also has the advantage of delivering water right onto the ground, keeping the plant foliage dry. This is particularly relevant in winter, when relative humidity tends to be quite high.
For direct-seeded crops sown in multiple beds at once (still in an unheated shelter), drip is not an optimal irrigation system because it’s impossible to lay out the lines before the seeds germinate. In this case, after the seeding, sprinklers must be set up to water the beds until the crop germinates and becomes established. To avoid any frost damage, irrigation lines must be purged and/or stored in a heated place, such as a garage, after being used.
In minimally heated greenhouses, the threat of freezing temperatures is nonexistent and equipment damage is less likely. In this case, choosing between drip or sprinkler irrigation will depend instead on the crop and planting date. This is a significant advantage provided by minimally heated greenhouses.
When irrigating different crops, knowing when to water and for how long depends largely on the weather and the time of year. In general, especially in unheated shelters, no irrigation is needed in December and January, when day length is at its shortest. At this time, soil moisture retention is high, and the plants, which are in a phase of extremely slow growth, draw very little water up through their roots. When February rolls around and day length increases, it’s time to come out of hibernation and make sure the soil doesn’t get too dry. We monitor the crops and feel the soil several times a week. A moisture meter can also help determine if a bed is ready to be watered.
Another crucial factor to consider when watering winter crops is the relationship between irrigation and a plant’s frost resistance. Plants with a slight water deficit have been shown to better tolerate freezing temperatures because with less water in their cells, they are less likely to form ice crystals in below-freezing conditions. Since crystals are deadly, it’s important to consider this when establishing an irrigation strategy before a major frost event. It’s always safer to tend towards watering too little rather than too much, especially when nights drop below freezing in December and January.
Greg A Lutovsky is passionate about potatoes. After originally toying with turning an old sandbox into a raised bed in a bid to grow corn, radishes and tomatoes when he was a kid, Lutovsky’s interest in seeds has turned into a role as farm manager at Irish Eyes, a seed purveyor based in Ellensburg, Washington, that’s focused on potatoes.
“In my 20s, being ginger, Irish and loving potatoes, I gravitated toward seed potato farming,” explains Lutovsky of his path. “There is no other veggie that is so flexible you can grow it just about anywhere and return such large yields for a small space.”
Taking a minute out from farm manager duties, we spoke to Lutovsky about the glory of Kennebecs and the changing demands of the potato seed market. We also got into a recommended way to grill potatoes.
Lutovsky’s love for seeds was formed during his early years growing up in Georgia. “In the third grade when we would eat watermelon outside, we would spit the seeds between the cement pad and mobile home underpinning,” he recalls.
“Low and behold, after a week I noticed the seeds had sprouted. Before you knew it I had blossoms and now small little watermelons. I would check the watermelon plants every day before school and immediately afterwards. After a few weeks, I came home and found a watermelon so large I couldn’t even pick it up. I was hooked!”
It turns out, Lutovsky’s moment of wonder came with a little human help. “Later on in life my dad came clean,” he says. “He told me the day after I left for school he removed my little watermelon and replaced it with a 30 pound watermelon. Dad and I had a good laugh when he told me in my 20s.”
When it comes to picking up on trends in the potato world, Lutovsky says that demand has rocketed since his early days at Irish Eyes.
“Gardeners did not have much access to seed potatoes other than a few old standards,” he recalls, mentioning the Red Pontiac, Kennebec and Russet varieties. “Doing research I found there were thousands of different varieties of potatoes, so I started offering Yellow Finn and a new potato called Yukon Gold. They became immediately popular with garden centers and home gardeners.
“Now the garden market has developed into yellows and something fun or different like fingerlings.”
Gazing toward next year, Lutovsky predicts that “yellows like Yukon Gold, Yukon Gem and the heat-tolerant Jelly will hold the top spots.”
Lutovsky adds that two relatively new varieties—the purple-skinned Huckleberry Gold and the yellow-hued Montana—are also likely to become top five seed sellers. “Both of these potatoes are low carb and friendly to diabetics.”
When it comes to personal potato favorites, Lutovsky picks based on how they’re going to be used. “When I make French fries, I choose Kennebec hands down,” he explains. “For lumpy mashed potatoes, it’s a tie between Caribe and Viking Purple. For a breakfast or baked potato, I would chose Arizona Gold, a new release for 2024.”
However, pushed to anoint one variety as victor, Lutovsky plumps for the Huckleberry Gold. “It’s not the best for any one purpose, but it’s the best for every purpose,” he says, noting how its great yield and storage properties make it a top choice for baking, frying, mashing and using in hash browns.
Lutovsky is a big advocate for utilizing the grill when cooking potatoes. “My favorite way to fix a potato is to barbecue it on your grill,” he says. “Slice half-inch slabs, cover them with oil so the seasonings stick, season it with garlic and your favorite seasonings and grill it on medium low,” he advises. “When the first side is crispy, turn it over and crisp the other side. It’s like a crispy potato chip with a soft center—add a small dollop of sour cream in the center of each slice.”
No matter if you grew up on a homestead yourself or are just now beginning to dabble in a more self-sufficient lifestyle, a small flock of chickens can be a great way to get your feet wet. Whether you have plans to harvest broilers for meat or are just looking for some laying hens to fill your kitchen with eggs, consider the following before adding poultry to your farm.
What to Look For
Chickens come in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes. Have a plan in mind before choosing a breed. Know what purpose your flock will serve.
Are you looking to raise them for meat, eggs or ornamental purposes?
Are you looking for a specific feather or egg coloring?
How large of a space can you offer them, both in a coop or a run?
What type of climate do you live in? This can influence which breed you choose. For example, breeds with larger, more exposed areas of skin in their combs or waddles can be more prone to frostbite and might not be as well-suited for a cold climate.
Are there any regulations in your area about having poultry?
Are you wanting only hens? Keep in mind when purchasing that you’ll likely need to choose between straight run (an unsexed mix of cockerels and pullets), cockerels and pullets.
scott/Adobe Stock
Find a Good Source
Chickens can generally be purchased as either hatching eggs, young chicks or started pullets. While fertile eggs might not be too difficult to come by in your community, incubating is a task that will need careful and consistent monitoring. On the other hand, though, started pullets can be more expensive to purchase.
Offering a happy middle ground, newly hatched chicks are a good option for the beginning chicken-keeper. They can be purchased online via hatchery websites and then shipped to your local post office. You can also purchase in person at farm-supply stores or from an individual’s own flock.
If ordering online, some hatcheries will require a minimum number of poultry to be purchased, and some may charge a fee for any order below a set quantity, as the chicks can stay warm longer and ship better in a larger group. This can be a disadvantage for anyone looking to start with a small flock of just a few hens.
If you’re open to a more limited selection of breed options, a local farm-supply store might be a good place to visit as you’ll be able to see the chicks in person and likely choose which ones and how many you want. Our local feed mill also offers the option to order in chicks for people.
For those looking to purchase from an individual, consider asking to see the original flock and inquire about any previous sickness or problems they might have had. If you already have an existing flock that you’ll be incorporating new birds into, avoid bringing any illness or problems home to your own birds.
Ashleigh Krispense
Supplies to Have
I have gone the impulsive route of walking away from a farm-supply store with two little boxes of fluffy chicks. But if you’re not familiar with the basics of caring for and raising them, it can be a good idea to wait until you have the supplies needed to bring them home!
Here are some things to have on hand:
A stock-tank or other suitable living space (with a piece of metal grate or other material with small openings for a lid) that can be sectioned off into smaller areas to keep the chicks contained in. While young, they won’t need a huge area to roam and keeping them warm is important.
Plenty of new bedding that can be changed out once soiled
Chick waterer that has a shallow ring around the bottom, allowing for safe drinking
Chick feeder
Good quality chick starter, whether you choose to use medicated or unmedicated
Heat lamp and bulb (whether a heat lamp bulb or incandescent) that’s height can be adjusted, allowing it to be moved closer for more warmth and then further away as the chicks get older. (Tip: Watch the chicks for indicators of how hot or cold they are. If they huddle close together, they’re likely cold and need the heat lamp moved closer. If they move outside the ring of light and spread out, the light might need to be moved a bit further away.)
A plan for future relocation is good, because as your chicks grow, their space will need to grow as well. Offer room for them to stretch their wings and move about.
As your chicks mature into adult birds, their needs will change. Here are some basic things to have:
• Large enough coop and run for the size of your flock
• Appropriate feeder and feed, which can vary dependent on whether you have broilers or layers, and their age
• Larger water dish
• Nesting boxes and bedding (such as straw)
• Roost that they can grip securely
Brooding Setup
Long-time chicken-keeper David Esau hatches his own chicks twice a year to share with people at local events/holidays, replenish his own flock of laying hens and raise cockerels to butcher.
After hatching, he raises the chicks in about a 2-foot square cardboard box until they have grown enough to be relocated. A cardboard box meets his needs well. He can dispose of it then after the chicks have outgrown it, and as he mentioned he won’t require storage until the next batch of chicks hatch. For an additional brooder option, metal stock tanks or washtubs work very well if you’re willing to store them when not in use.
Esau suggests using appropriately-sized equipment in your brooder set-up, such as chick feeders and waterers that are low enough to the ground that they will be able to reach them. Wood chips can be used for litter. And for a heat source, Esau has opted to use a heat shield with a 40- to 60-watt incandescent light bulb (as opposed to the traditional heat lamp bulbs). Esau also notes that the heat can gradually be reduced over time as the chicks grow and feathers develop.
Inside Your Coop
Transitioning young birds into a regular coop can be more of a challenge if you already have an established flock. Do it gradually and allow time for the chicks and older hens to first become acquainted with each other through a pen.
Whether your chicks are in their “big bird” coop yet or not, it can be helpful to go ahead and make any repairs or small fixes needed to secure it against predators and the elements. From fixing holes in the fencing that encloses your pen, replacing broken or missing windows inside the coop, or touching up other various areas that have become weakened over time, always be prepared.
As you prepare your coop, here are some things to consider having.
A sturdy-enough roost that will allow the chickens to sleep up off the ground
Nesting boxes can come in a variety of shapes or sizes, including homemade ones. Whatever you choose to use, line it with some bedding, such as wheat straw.
Feeders and waterers, whether on the ground or suspended from the ceiling
Appropriate lighting that can be used to supplement any extra hours of light needed for laying hens
Ventilation is also necessary to remove ammonia smell due to droppings, as well as to help cool the hens during hot summer months when they are inside the coop. Doors and windows can be opened and lined with chicken wire to make screens, allowing more air flow. Esau has used half-inch hail screen in the past.
Consider the litter on the floor of your coop and find what method of care and cleaning works best for your flock and lifestyle. Keep in mind also what type of floor your coop has, whether it’s a dirt floor at ground level or elevated with wood.
Look for any openings or gaps that would allow a predator to slip inside, such as a weasel, opossum or hungry raccoon. Even snakes will seek out a whole egg meal at times.
Feeding & Boredom Busters
The nutritional needs of your flock will vary, depending on their age and intended purpose. It’s good to do your research via poultry-related books, trustworthy local feed-mill/feed-store employees, or, as Esau suggests, the instructions on feed bags. He feeds a commercial feed that is age-appropriate for his flock. Chicks should start with chick starter and gradually move up as they mature to a brooder/grower/finisher feed. Esau suggests that pullets can then be switched to a layer feed around a month before they are to start laying.
Once you have landed on a good feeding plan, supplement it from time to time with various boredom busters. Try suspending a head of cabbage or lettuce in the air and letting your birds peck at it. You can also make your own frozen treats.
If producing fodder from sprouted grains—such as wheat—sounds like something you would like to try, Esau has grown it in various containers to around a height of 3 inches before feeding it to his flock. He prefers to not grow so much that the flock can’t consume it within just a day or two.
Ashleigh Krispense
Poultry-Safe Landscaping
Gardening and landscaping while owning chickens can be a challenge, especially if they free-range. Learning which plants are safest to plant near your coop or in the main free-range area can be helpful. For example, local greenhouse owner and chicken-keeper Jana Dalke shared some herbs and other plants that can be safely planted near poultry, such as “mint, chives, parsley fennel, basil, anything in the brassica family,” she says. “They love lettuce and other salad greens.”
If you’re looking to mix it up, Dalke also suggests providing your flock with an accessible snack by allowing cucumbers to grow up a fence. This way, the birds can munch on them as they’re produced. She pointed out that preventative measures will need to be taken in the beginning—such as putting fence around the plants—to keep chickens from the plants until they have matured.
While various types of plants can safely co-exist with poultry, some are also considered toxic. Dalke mentioned some of these. “Nightshades, bulbs such as tulip daffodils and iris, holly, foxglove, azalea, oak leaves and acorns, rhubarb, yew, apricot pits, certain ferns are said to be toxic to chickens,” she says.
Whether you’re close to making your first purchase from a hatchery or are considering some fertile hatching eggs to go in an incubator, chickens can offer a fun and educational experience for your homestead. Do your research, gather the supplies and watch as your flock seems to expand right before your eyes!
More Information
Keeping Your Hens Healthy
Sometimes, prevention can be the best medicine when it comes to keeping your flock healthy. Here are some simple steps you can implement in caring for your own poultry.
Chicken-keeper David Esau recommends having good feed (which should be appropriate for your flock’s age and nutritional needs, depending on if they’re layers or broilers) and being watchful for parasites. The more time you spend around your birds, the more normal their behaviors will appear, so you’ll be better able to spot something that’s out of character.
Provide fresh, clean water during the summer and winter. Whether it’s become low and dirty during the hot summer afternoons or frozen over and unable to be drunk during cold winter days, check in regularly on their water supply and freshen it up.
For larger flocks, an appropriately sized coop and run is beneficial. This will keep them from being too cramped and avoid behavioral problems and excessive pecking or bullying.
Watch for excess amounts of ammonia from droppings, which can cause respiratory issues in your flock. Check your coop for plenty of ventilation and clean or change litter as needed. Find a routine that works for you and your flock.
Keep a watchful eye out (and ear, as sometimes you may notice an odd noise) on your chickens for early signs of health problems. Whether mites or an illness, it can be helpful to jump on an issue as soon as it can be recognized.
This article originally appeared in the Nov./Dec. 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.
Indiana farmer and The Lean Micro Farm author Ben Hartman talks about the logistics of downsizing.
Hear about the CSA Ben started while still in high school and how this set him up for a career in farming. Ben shares the statistics that, by the end of this century, we will lose half of the farms that we have now, and the farms that are left will be twice as large. Statistics like this make him believe even more strongly that farmers need to increase their money-making potential.
“We were really bad farmers,” Ben says about his and his wife, Rachel Hershberger’s, Clay Bottom Farm. Listen to his story of farming 5 acres on a growth trajectory, then changing course to start downsizing instead—and now farming just 1/3 acre and making the same amount of money. You’ll hear Ben’s step-by-step entry into the principles of the lean manufacturing system, including examining and getting rid of the seven forms of waste, designing a farm business that achieves specific goals, using the 80/20 principle to identify both customers and products, and more. Also learn a couple of lean concepts for managing workforce and the 5 S organizing system. (This will change how you use and store your farming tools!)
Also get to know the work Ben has done with Winrock International’s USAID farmer-first lean-farming project in Nigeria and his teaching and training work for farmers everywhere.
My garden shed build is coming along nicely, and, in fact, I have almost got it dried in (protected from the elements). Next I need to work on the soffits and fascia, which needs to be done before I put the roof on—or, according to my philosophy it does. I think of a building project like a lasagna, where each layer needs to be completed before moving on to the next one.
To cut the soffit material, you need just a couple of tools. One is a straight edge, and for this I’m using a track system that fits on my circular saw. This track system will allow me to make pretty straight cuts, but I’m going to cut my fascia boards from my two pieces first because I want to keep the factory edge. Why? Because, even using a track, the circular saw can cut a slightly wavy line and, if that happens, it’ll be hidden by the trim layer. The dead-straight factory edge, though, will be on the bottom and visible.
Make sure you check out the video, where I show you how to adjust the saw so the teeth will barely clear the wood—and leave my sawhorses intact.
You’ll see in the video that I’ve got some slight gaps between the top of the garden shed wall and the roof beams. Is this a problem? No, it’s not. In following steps, we’ll be installing trim that will cover that up and, at the end, caulking the gap to ensure the shed is weather tight and not so easy for bugs to enter.
But, as I said, that’s a future “lasagna” layer, as are window installation and hanging the door. Next up, it’s time for me to put on the roof, at which point this shed will be pretty close to done.
Happy World Soil Day! Back in 2013, the United Nations General Assembly chose Dec. 5 as the date for annual World Soil Day, which was held for the first time in 2014. According to the United Nations website, World Soil Day is “a means to focus attention on the importance of healthy soil and to advocate for the sustainable management of soil resources.”
Here at Hobby Farms, we care a lot about soil. Without healthy soil, we can’t grow productive gardens, orchards and crops. That’s why we’ve spent years exploring topics pertaining to the maintenance and improvement of soil health.
Are you looking for ways to improve your farm or garden soil? Here’s a roundup of helpful articles to get you started:
Tree leaves are a great carbon addition to garden soil, providing calcium, magnesium and more. Here are three ways to incorporate leaves into your soil.
What is the pH level of your soil, and does it need amending? The kickoff article in this two-part series explores stage one of soil fertility management.
The second installment of this two-part series on soil fertility management dives into forming Permabeds, adding compost and side-dressing, and managing your annual crop cycles.
Soil isn’t comprised solely of “dirt.” Ideally it will be 25 percent air and 25 percent water, allowing microorganisms to thrive and water to carry nutrients around. This article explains it all.
It’s possible to suppress weeds without using weed barrier fabric. Cardboard and cover crops are alternative (and more beneficial) options, as this article describes.
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“When you have 98 degrees F and 95 percent humidity, it’s hot,” says Michael Spencer, who lives on 3 acres northwest of Houston, Texas. “We were triple digit for over 20 days with no rain. It was brutal.”
Despite the 2023 drought, Spencer harvested bumper crops of tomatoes, okra, potatoes and numerous vegetables, using several gardening techniques.
Tomato Time
An organic gardener, Spencer nabbed plants at the local feed store, without knowing their varieties. He purchased three hybrid tomato plants and one cherry tomato plant, each 4 to 6 inches tall, and he planted them inside 3-foot-tall tomato cages during mid-March. To encourage growth, he clipped all of the bottom leaves off the tomato plants, leaving only the top three sprouts.
“I started clipping them when they began growing, at about three weeks,” Spencer says. “When they reached 3 feet tall, they were growing and spreading. I circled one piece of 4-by-4 and 4-feet-tall wire around all four bushes. The plants took off and spread everywhere. They were 6 feet tall. Once they went over the wire and began flowering, I stopped pruning. There were flowers everywhere.”
The Spencers began picking tomatoes by June. Compared to previous years, and their neighbors, they harvested a bumper crop.
“Because our water has chlorine in it, I try to avoid using it,” Spencer says. “I only use tap water when necessary. I used my rain barrel until it was dry. It’s amazing what happens to plants when it rains versus using tap water.”
Oh, Okra
Tomatoes aside, Spencer randomly grabbed okra seed packets at the seed store. He planted two rows, 6 inches apart, in the tomato bed.
“I don’t think the tap water bothered the okra as much as the tomatoes,” Spencer says. “I just kept watering. I’ve never seen okra like this. The plants are 10 feet tall. I used a ladder to get into the bed, and then I would hand walk myself to the top, bend the plant over, and pick the okra.”
Spencer’s okra began producing in late June. And he continued to harvest his bumper crop during Thanksgiving week.
Taters & Onions
With an eye on potatoes, he prepped his potato and onion bed. Then he covered the bed with cardboard pieces to block weeds until he planted.
Spencer says, “You’re supposed to plant potatoes after the last frost. But I outguessed the weather and planted in mid-February. I bought a bag of golden potatoes at the grocery. I cut red and golden potatoes into quarters. I dug a 6-inch-deep trough and buried them. And as they sprouted, I added my garden soil mix on them. “
Circling back a few years, Spencer began gardening in 2014, when he cobbled a 6-feet-by-12-feet (and-1-foot-high) raised garden bed. Then in 2015, he crafted a raised bed from blue Hackett Oklahoma stone. Now in his 60s, all the bending over and weeding took its toll on Spencer.
So, in 2022, he built a third, 2-foot-high raised bed. Spencer used 2-inch-by-12-inch-by-12-foot long treated lumber, lining it with black weed barrier on the sides and bottom. As well, he used 4-by-4 (and 8-foot-tall) treated lumber posts in the corners to connect everything. Also, Spencer raised his other beds to 2 feet high.
Spencer filled his beds with compost that included grass clippings and leaves, saved since 2019, packing it down to 15 inches high. Atop the compost, he added a garden soil mix made of soil, sand, mulch and mushroom compost. A slow-release organic fertilizer, mushroom compost’s ingredients usually include various organic materials and animal manure.
Meeting the Challenge
Since deer, rabbits and other critters freely nosh on his acreage, Spencer installed a gated, 8-foot-tall wire fence, with 2-inch-by-2-inch openings, around the beds.
Other challenges include nutsedge grass. So, after a good, soaking rain in January or February, Spencer digs a foot down and removes the nuts, which are the source of the weeds.
After harvesting the bumper crop, Spencer washes his tomatoes. He washes and then blanches his unpeeled potatoes, steaming them for two minutes. Everything goes into freezer bags for freezer preservation.
Born in Alaska Territory, Spencer grew up in Oklahoma, and he says gardening success is in his blood. His French grandparents were wheat farmers in Saskatchewan, Canada. Their huge vegetable garden plus livestock provided all of their food.
Spencer began picking raspberries and cucumbers on their farm by age five. After his grand-pére died, his grand-mére continued gardening into her late 90s. And she passed the shovel to Spencer’s mother.
Harkening to his roots, Spencer says, “I grow up to half of our vegetables now, and I know what we’re getting in our food.”
