The most important gardening task in November is to clean up your garden, removing any dying, diseased, decaying plant matter and debris such as fallen or rotting fruits and vegetables. Compost what you can and discard the rest. This will ensure that your garden stays healthy and looks attractive, too.
You can leave flowering herbs and plants such as basil, dill and kale in your garden to feed wildlife, birds and insects in winter.
Disconnect Watering Pipes/ Turn Off Irrigation/ Empty Rain Barrels
Don’t forget to disconnect and drain your watering hoses in winter—otherwise you will risk pipes bursting during a freeze. Same goes for drip irrigation. Be sure to turn it off in winter before temperatures fall below freezing.
Empty all rain barrels and water fountains to prevent cracking and damage.
Add Compost or Organic Matter to Soil
If there’s one task that you absolutely must do in fall, it’s to add compost or organic matter to your soil, especially to your vegetable garden. Add 3 to 4 inches of homemade compost, mushroom compost or leaf mold (made with decaying leaves) on top of your soil.
This will not only prevent soil erosion and compaction but will be a source of food for earthworms and beneficial soil microbes in winter. The best part is that, as the compost further breaks down over the winter months, it releases nutrients into the soil, making it a rich and healthy environment to grow food in spring.
Clean Your Tools
November is also a good time to make sure your garden tools are in good condition before you store them away for winter. Disinfect them by simply washing with soap and warm water.
If they are rusted, soak them overnight in some distilled white vinegar. Scrub off the rust the next day using a steel wool pad, soap and water. Finally, wipe the blades with a soft cloth that has been dipped in some vegetable oil to restore their shine and improve their longevity.
Bring in Cold-Sensitive Plants
If you’re growing citrus or fruit trees such as lemons, kumquats or figs, it’s important to bring them indoors for winter as they will struggle when temperatures drop below 45 degrees F. Be sure to inspect plants for pests and diseases (especially on the underside of leaves). Hose down the plants with water and wipe leaves clean with a soft cloth before bringing it indoors.
Place plants in a greenhouse or warm sunny location, preferably with a humidifier in the room to help them get acclimated to the new environment.
As temperatures start to drop in November, you will notice that plants will struggle to grow and thrive, and this can make your garden look unsightly. It’s important to keep your growing clean and healthy, as decaying plant matter can harbor unwanted pests and diseases, and can become a hiding spot for predators like rats and snakes too.
What to Avoid Doing
Avoid pruning fruit trees in fall. The purpose of pruning is to help the plant redirect its energy into producing new growth and fruits. In winter growth slows down significantly and sometimes even stops temporarily (in below freezing conditions). Hence pruning won’t be as effective and can even harm the plant.
Instead, the best time to prune your fruit trees is in late winter, right before spring time, which will encourage it to grow again.
Horseradish root is very easy to grow but sometimes disregarded because, once you plant it, it tends to take over. It spreads pretty quickly and is difficult to get rid of. We planted about five horseradish crownsthat we were gifted from a friend years ago. It takes a couple years for the roots to establish and for it to be harvestable, but over the years I’ve been able to expand our growing areas to three spots.
With three horseradish gardens, I’m able to always harvest some from one or two gardens, while allowing for the other(s) to take the year off to mature.
I really enjoy fresh prepared horseradish. I love stirring it into sour cream to make a sauce for steak or prime rib, or I’ll mix it into mayo for a zippy sandwich spread. I also use prepared horseradish to make cocktail sauce for shrimp, and of course I mix it into my bloody Mary for an extra kick.
Before I grew it myself, I bought horseradish from a local farmer. When I started growing my own, my farmer friend gave me a great tip about harvesting. He told me to wait until the first frost to harvest because it makes the root even spicier. So now I wait until we’ve had at least one kill frost before I dig it up, but I don’t wait too long. Otherwise the ground begins to freeze, which makes an otherwise tedious task even more difficult.
If you don’t grow your own horseradish, you can likely find fresh root at a local co-op or grocery store. If you can’t find the root in whole form, you’ll probably be able to find the prepared horseradish condiment in the cooler section of your grocer.
I have a recipe for making freshly prepared horseradish in my cookbook WECK Small-Batch Preserving. It’s a more traditional way of preparing it, which uses salt and vinegar. But today I am sharing a recipe for fermented horseradish root.
Yield: 1 cup (8 ounce) jar
Ingredients
1 cup fresh horseradish root, cubed
1/2 tsp. coarse kosher salt
1/2 cup water
Preparation
Once you begin cutting into horseradish, the oils in the root become exposed to the air, and it will begin to burn your eyes. Keep that in mind as you decide where to make this recipe. Outside is the best option if you are able.
Wash, peel and cube horseradish. I find a potato peeler is the best tool for peeling.
Add cubed horseradish to a food processor and blend until finely chopped. Add salt and water, and blend again until you’ve reached a smooth consistency.
Transfer the blended horseradish to a clean canning jar. Use a spatula or spoon to push down all the pieces so that none are stuck to the side of the jar.
Wipe the rim of the jar and place on the canning lid. Tightly screw on the ring.
Fermentation
Ferment at room temperature, out of direct sunlight for at least one week. Once a day, remove the lid, stir the fermented horseradish and pat it back down and re-tighten on the lid.
Once the ferment has reached your ideal flavor, transfer the jar of fermented horseradish to the refrigerator. The spice of the ferment will dissipate within a couple weeks, therefore I try to use it up within two to three weeks. It will, however, safely stay edible in your refrigerator for months.
Notes
If you’d prefer to use vinegar, substitute the water for organic apple cider vinegar (with the mother). For more of a punch, allow the horseradish to be exposed to air for at least five minutes before adding the vinegar (if you go that route). As soon as the vinegar is added, it stabilizes the spice.
This recipe has been adapted from Stephanie Thurow’s WECK Small-Batch Preserving with permission from Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.
My farm garden shed is really starting to take shape! In a previous video, I installed the rafters and purlins, which really add a lot to the structure’s stability and overall frame. But my roof still isn’t ready for sheeting yet, as I still need to install the end rafters for the overhang on the east and west sides. And I need to put on the trim board across the front to block off the exterior against weather or would-be animal intruders.
First, I need to build a very basic soffit to prevent anything from flying in between the rafters. If you’re like me and working on an outbuilding project by yourself, you might be interested in the dead-simple woodworking jig solution I came up with, as shown in the video. It really helped me install the 6-foot-long pieces of lumber by myself, and the jig itself was extremely simple to build.
One important thing to keep in mind when installing the front-side trim is, you can’t just line it up with the rafters. As the rafters create a slope, you also need to account for this measurement. This is fairly simple, though, and I just place a flat pencil across the rafter and board. When the pencil lies flat across the rafter and the outer edge of the trim board (as you can see in the video), the board placement is correct.
Next, using my handmade jig to keep things in place, I can just nail the soffit trim board in place. After that, I’ll install rafters on the east and west sides to support my garden shed overhang and consider this structure’s frame complete.
Next up: It’s time to put the roof on my new farm garden shed! We’ll tackle this exciting step in my next video in this series.
All it takes is one good storm—or just one very windy day—to send tree branches earthward. Those fallen sticks and large limbs can really add up. That goes for any woody shrub trimmings you happen to generate while pruning as well. Before long, you can be left with a truly massive brush pile.
Although lots of people choose to burn their brush, you can extract a lot of value from that old pile of sticks. Here are six ways to put your brush pile to better use.
Biochar Basics
As a soil amendment, biochar can improve soil structure, moisture retention capabilities and overall nutrient availability to plants. And, as it happens, dried limbs and branches—especially those from softwoods—make great feedstock for making biochar.
Whether you dig your own burn pit or use a biochar kiln, any limbs from your brush pile that you intend to include for this specialized burning process (pyrolysis) had better be aged and bone-dry. Ideally, they should be about 3 inches in diameter or smaller, and they should break easily with a loud crack when you bend-test them.
Because it can take up to 100 pounds of brush to make just 10 to 20 pounds of biochar, your best bet is to save up limbs and sticks over several months’ time, sorting them by size as you go. Gardening with Biochar author Jeff Cox recommends making a couple of piles—one for branches between 2 and 3 inches in diameter and another for sticks less than 2 inches around.
Cover these piles with tarps to keep the rain out as you wait for the sorted wood to reach levels of 10 percent moisture or less. At that point, they’ll be ready for their transformation from plain-old yard waste to pyrolyzed prize.
Mushroom Magic
Provided some of the limbs in your brush pile are the right sizes and types of wood, you can use them to grow your own mushrooms. In general, hardwoods such as hickory, chestnut and oak are ideal. You’ll need at least one live, healthy, newly cut tree limb that’s 3 to 8 inches in diameter. You’ll also need to obtain mushroom spawn that’s suitable for the kind of hardwood you have on hand.
For instance, shiitake mushrooms will readily grow on alder, ash, beech, chestnut, hickory and oak, among others. And many types of oyster mushrooms do well on alder, beech, oak and hardwood maples.
Incidentally, any wood you plan to use should always be kept up off the ground. If tree limbs are permitted to make long-term contact with the soil, potentially competing fungi could begin to colonize the wood before you’ve had a chance to introduce your chosen mushroom spawn.
Typically, mushroom spawn is sold in the form of small, inoculated plugs or via bags of inoculated substrate such as hardwood sawdust. (Plug spawn can be slightly more expensive, but it’s a good choice for beginners.) Before you begin inoculating your cut tree limb, separate it into sections that are each about 3 to 4 feet long.
Next, drill a row of 1-inch-deep holes spaced 6 inches apart along the length of each of these limbs. Then, turn each limb and drill a second row of holes starting a couple of inches below those in the first rows. Repeat these steps until you have a staggered series of holes forming a diamond pattern along the length of each limb. (By staggering these holes, you reduce the risk of overcrowding once your mushrooms begin to grow. Harvesting them in this configuration is easier as well.)
Once your holes are drilled, insert the mushroom spawn plugs using a small mallet to tap them into place as needed. After the plugs are in place, seal each hole by brushing on some melted beeswax.
Place the inoculated limbs on a tarp or pallet in a cool, shady spot and water them once a week. It can take six months to a year or more before you see your first flush of mushrooms. Once the limbs begin to produce, however, you may get multiple harvests over many years.
If you don’t have just the right hardwood limbs, you might try growing red wine cap mushrooms instead. These will readily colonize a bed of chipped hard and soft woods. To start, choose a shady garden spot and water the soil well. Next, add a layer of fresh wood chips and water again. Sprinkle red wine cap spawn over the top of this layer and cover with about an inch of wood chips. Continue with this layering process until you’ve run out of spawn. Mulch with one more layer of wood chips, water again, and keep moist. Depending on the time of year and depth of your mushroom bed, you may start to see mushrooms in just a few weeks.
As a rule, early spring is best for most outdoor mushroom projects, but fall also works—if you still have several weeks before the first frost.
Susan Brackney
Hügelkultur Helper
Logs and branches that have been systematically arranged to form a mound have long been the basis for hügelkultur. Translating into English as “hill culture,” hügelkultur enables gardeners to literally rise above poor soil and can be especially useful if you have very heavy clay or rocky soil.
To convert that brush pile into a proper mound garden, start by eliminating any turf or weeds in an area that’s at least 3 feet by 6 feet. (Set the green plant matter you remove aside to be re-included later.)
Next, arrange large logs and branches to form a flat base upon which to build. Follow this with a large layer of smaller branches and sticks. Crisscrossing these can help them stay put. (Be sure to avoid using live limbs from aggressive rooters such as weeping willow or Japanese honeysuckle.)
The next layer includes plant waste such as nitrogen-rich grass clippings, vegetable scraps and the plants you pulled up earlier. (Again, don’t include super-rooting invasive weeds such as English ivy.) Top with a thick layer of aged compost and at least 4 inches of topsoil.
Now, you can plant directly into the mound and subsequently mulch to suppress weeds. The mound itself will hold moisture well while also providing slow-release nutrients to plants. Over time, the wood buried in the bottom of the hügelkultur garden will decompose to add a rich layer of humus.
If you plan to start a more structured raised bed, you can adapt this hügelkultur model accordingly. Within your raised bed’s walls, simply line the bottom with dead limbs and sticks before adding compost and topsoil. The woody debris will improve soil drainage and aeration while also promoting the growth of beneficial fungi and other microorganisms.
Susan Brackney
Mighty Mulch
You can use a gas- or electric-powered chipper/shredder to transform that untidy brush pile into more manageable mulch. That said, though, you shouldn’t spread those fresh wood chips indiscriminately. As just-shredded wood breaks down, it can reduce the nitrogen levels in your soil. What’s more, trees such as black walnut contain germination-inhibiting chemicals that can stymie the growth of plants nearby.
As a result, it’s best to avoid using this material to mulch your annual flower or veggie patches.
Still, fresh wood chips are very well-suited for suppressing weeds along garden paths and walkways. For best results, lay down large sections of plain cardboard first. (Remove any labels and packing tape before placement.) If you like, you can also pin the cardboard in place with metal landscaping anchors.
Next, top with 4 or 5 inches of your fresh wood chips. With rain and foot traffic, the woody material will become more tightly packed. Some weeds eventually may find their way into your paths, but pulling them out from the heavily mulched surface is a snap.
Compost Fix
Whether you already have a compost pile or wish to start one, the materials in your brush pile can come in handy. The right mix of carbon- and nitrogen-rich materials is essential for maintaining a healthy, active compost pile. (In general, you’re shooting for 25 to
30 parts carbon for every one part nitrogen.)
If your existing pile is smelly and slow to break down, you could have too much nitrogen and not enough carbon. Your compost could also be too wet. These conditions are ideal for cool-operating anaerobic bacteria, rather than their aerobic counterparts. To fix the problem and get your compost really cooking again, run small sticks and limbs through a chipper/shredder and mix these in well with your nitrogen-heavy compostables such as kitchen waste and grass clippings.
Just keep in mind that wood chips can contain a whopping 400 parts carbon to one part nitrogen. (As a frame of reference, the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio for most shredded paper is just over 100:1; that of dried leaves is approximately 60:1; and coffee grounds are 20:1.)
By mixing more “brown,” carbon-rich matter in with your “green,” nitrogen-heavy material, you can boost your carbon-to-nitrogen ratio and add much-needed bulk to the compost pile. This, in turn, will improve airflow and make conditions just right for heat-generating aerobic bacteria. As a result, your compost will break down much more quickly than it otherwise might. (It’ll also smell much better in the process!)
If you’re thinking about starting a compost pile or maybe a few additional piles, begin by lining the bottom of any piles-to-be with crisscrossed limbs and sticks from the brush pile. This will help facilitate drainage and airflow. Top with a layer of smaller twigs and dried leaves and then follow with your mixture of nitrogen-rich greens and carbon-rich browns.
Natural Neighbors
By systematically arranging large limbs and smaller sticks into a structured wildlife habitat, you can support beneficial insects, mammals, and many kinds of birds. To start, remove turf and weeds from the area and cover with cardboard and a layer of dried leaves or other mulch material to suppress future plant growth.
Susan Brackney
Next, position a few large limbs in parallel about 1 to 2 feet apart and add a few more limbs perpendicularly across the top of the first set to form the base. (If you have one, you can use an old pallet as a base instead.) Starting with a solid, slightly elevated base like this facilitates airflow and will help nesting critters to stay dry.
To finish the wildlife habitat, neatly stack the remaining limbs and sticks across the base. Your finished habitat should measure four or five feet across. As animals begin to explore and use the shelter, you should notice your sticks being rearranged to suit their needs. Inhabited structures may take on an igloolike shape, with multiple entry and exit points.
As a finishing touch, you can plant native perennial flowers near the habitat. This acts as a screen and will further attract pollinators and other beneficial insects, too.
This article originally appeared in the Sept./Oct. 2023 issue of Hobby Farms magazine.
Root cellaring is the simplest form of food preservation. Storing produce in a root cellar can be a good deal if you have the right kind of vegetables and fruits and a humid, cold location. Root cellaring, also called cold storage, cool storage and underground storage, takes advantage of the natural coldness of late fall and winter and the insulating coolness below the ground to keep your harvest fresh for a couple of weeks or an entire winter.
Root cellaring is incredibly easy, but it isn’t foolproof. That is because the low temperatures aren’t powered by electricity, so they’ll vary, as will the shelf life of your produce. As a result, you’ll have to check the food regularly, adjusting the temperature and humidity, and remove any fruits and vegetables that are starting to spoil.
Store only top-quality produce without blemishes, bad spots or wounds. Any weakness can invite decay or disease, which can spread to other fruits and vegetables. And only store produce suited for long-term cold storage. Good choices for root cellaring are apples, cabbages, pears, firm cool-season root crops and hard-shelled squash—the crops that seem to last forever if forgotten in the back of the refrigerator.
Handle produce destined for storage with great care during and after harvesting to avoid bruises and damage. Don’t wash the fruits and vegetables, even if they are dirty. Instead, just rub the soil off with a soft cloth or glove or rinse it off gently under running water. Then let the water evaporate before storing. And if you harvest on a warm autumn day, let the food chill in the refrigerator before you put it into storage. Otherwise, it’ll take a long time to cool down and could spoil in the process.
How It Works
We have come to rely on our refrigerators for storing just about anything. It’s difficult to believe that just a few generations ago, your ancestors used their root cellar for a similar purpose. But why should you bother to use a root cellar in our technological age?
For one, your refrigerator probably is crowded with other things, and you simply don’t have enough space to store the fall harvest from a medium- or large-size garden. Secondly, the conditions in a root cellar can be even better than refrigeration for crops such as garlic, onions and potatoes.
A big part of what you can store in a root cellar depends on your storage conditions. You can keep produce in a barrel buried in the garden, in a foam ice chest in an unheated garage, or in boxes or bags in your basement. If you don’t have space or time to make an extra-cold and extra-humid area, you can keep many vegetables in your basement or an unheated room.
If the temperature stays about 50 degrees Fahrenheit, it’s great for pumpkins, sweet potatoes and winter squash and tolerable for eggplant, garlic, onions, potatoes, tomatillos and green tomatoes. You can make a storage area in any convenient place where the temperature is low, ideally, 32 to 40 degrees F, and the humidity is high, 80 percent or more.
Let’s look at these conditions more closely.
ekatherina/Adobe Stock
Temperature
Except for a few fruits and some vegetables, you need to keep your food as close to freezing as possible without letting any of it freeze. The proper range, as mentioned, is 32 to 40 degrees. Put your food in storage after temperatures drop outside so you can use those cold temperatures to cool your stored food. In a basement, open a window or vent when you need to lower the temperature, or you can insulate the space to keep warmer indoor air out.
If you’re storing produce in a covered trash can buried outside, you’ll need just enough soil over and around the container to keep it cold but not freezing. Foam chests are their own insulators.
Humidity
Most vegetables, except onions and winter squash, shrivel rapidly unless stored in a moist atmosphere where the humidity is between 80 and 95 percent. In a storage room, keep the humidity up by keeping the air quite moist or the food moist in rustproof cans, pails or barrels.
To keep the air in the storage room moist, spray water regularly right on the cement or dirt floor. Or sprinkle the floor with water from a watering can. (If you have got a dirt floor, think about building a wooden slat floor over it so that you won’t be walking around in wet dirt. Or lay down a layer of coarse, well-washed gravel 3 inches thick, and keep that moist.)
Be careful not to water so much that puddles collect. These could easily encourage the growth of molds and bacteria.
You’ll have to sprinkle each time the relative humidity of the air falls below 80 percent (a hygrometer will tell), which could be quite often. Large shallow pans filled with clean water and placed throughout the root cellar can also be used to increase humidity.
If you aren’t able to or don’t desire to go through the trouble of keeping the entire root cellar humid, store produce that is particularly likely to shrivel, such as root crops, in closed rust-proof containers layered in damp sand, burlap or sphagnum moss. Containers such as large crocks, metal cans, tight wooden boxes and barrels are all suitable for this purpose.
Ventilation
Good ventilation is essential for preventing the growth of airborne bacteria and molds that thrive in humid environments. It isn’t so important when you’re just storing a small amount of food in a buried barrel as it is when you are storing a large amount in a storage room. To ventilate, let in fresh, cold outside air, which also helps bring your storage room temperature down to 32 to 40 degrees.
Light
Store fruits and vegetables in a dark place. Food will decay faster if exposed to light.
Dmitriy Sladkov/Adobe Stock
Cellaring Supplies
Get together everything you’ll need for root cellaring so you can bring your produce right from the garden into storage without shifting it from container to container. This will save time and minimize handling, keeping the produce in better condition.
Fortunately, root cellaring doesn’t require any expensive or specialized equipment. All you need are the fruits and vegetables you want to store, containers to store them in and packing materials such as newspaper, hay or leaves to cushion and separate the produce in storage.
Make sure the storage container you choose is free of any substances that would affect the quality of the food you store. Contamination from diseased vegetables will spoil your produce, and the odor and scent of gasoline, cedar or any other strong-smelling substance can be absorbed by vegetables. Wash plastic and metal containers before you use them for storage, and make sure they are dry before you pack produce in them.
Here’s an opportunity to put your recycling creativity to work with the following containers.
Wooden Boxes
Originally designed to store and ship apples and other fruits, wooden boxes make ideal storage units for cold storage. Dry leaves, hay, straw, sphagnum moss or crumpled burlap can all be used to stuff them. When stacking wooden boxes for storage, place furring strips between the boxes and the floor and between individual boxes to permit good air circulation.
Cardboard Boxes
Probably the most readily available container option, cardboard boxes are perfectly suitable for storing produce in a root cellar if they’re clean.
Homemade Storage Bins
DIY bins are another good option. You can build bins right into storage areas so that there is no chance of water seeping in from the floor. Make the lowest bins 4 inches above the floor to allow air circulation. And make the storage containers removable so you can take them outdoors at the end of the storage season to wash them thoroughly and air them out.
Rustproof Containers
Plastic/metal trash cans, large pails and barrels are all fine as long as they are rustproof. Fill them with packing material and produce in layers, and finish with another 2-inch layer of additional packing at the top. These containers can also be used for pit storage if they’re waterproof.
Styrofoam Ice Chests
Styrofoam chests, with lids removed, make great containers. A crack or two will do no harm.
Mesh Bags/Orange Crates
These are excellent options for storing produce such as onions that require good air circulation.
Sites for Root Cellaring
From a built-in basement storage room to storing in the garden, a variety of root cellaring options exist to store food through the winter. A basement root cellar is lovely to have because it’s so convenient to use, but it can be expensive to build and may just cancel out any savings you had gained from storing your harvest instead of buying from the grocery store during the winter.
Garden
The easiest way to keep vegetables in cold storage is to leave them where they are growing during the late fall and early winter. This only works with extra hardy crops such as winter-keeper cultivars of beets, carrots, parsnips, rutabagas and turnips, as well as durable greens such as Brussels sprouts, evergreen scallions and parsley. And it requires well-drained soil that won’t encourage the roots to rot. If you have a cold frame, you can also grow arugula, Swiss chard, winter lettuce and other cool-season greens.
Cellar Steps
You can make a small but simple and inexpensive storage area by taking advantage of the steps that lead from your basement to the outside basement door. Install an inside door at the bottom of the steps to keep basement heat out. If you want to create an even larger storage area, build inward into the basement, but take care to insulate this extra interior wall space from the rest of the basement. As you go up the steps, temperatures in the stairwell will decrease, and a little experimenting will help you determine the best levels for the different crops you are storing. Check the humidity, and if it’s too dry put some pans of water at the warmest level to increase it.
Styrofoam Ice Chests
A foam ice chest is a perfect cooler for crops such as apples and green tomatoes. If you have an unheated place that doesn’t actually freeze, such as a garage or porch, these coolers can work well for short periods of time. Add the produce you want to store in the chests, a different one in each chest. (Don’t mix different types of produce.) Put the lid in place, and keep it out of the sun, which might heat up the chest. Produce kept this way will probably be good for several weeks.
Underground Storage
A fully or partially buried container makes a good place for storing produce. The earth protects from freezing temperatures as well as keeps the food cool and out of the light. But it doesn’t keep out rodents and other animals, so make sure the container is secure.
It’s also important to make some kind of drainage to prevent water from entering the container and spoiling the food.
Areas of the country that have moderate winters without extreme temperature changes are the best for this kind of cold storage. The earth acts as a good insulator, but there is no guarantee that it’ll hold out freezing temperatures that will freeze your food or high temperatures that can cause food to spoil. Two simple ways to store produce underground are in a wooden box or a sunken trash can.
Viesturs Kalvans/Adobe Stock
Buried Box
Make a wooden box 6 feet long, 3 feet wide and 2 feet deep. Standard 2-by-4 wooden boards work well. Use a 1-inch hardware cloth to tightly line the inside to keep out rodents. Make a neat wooden lid for the top.
At harvest time in late autumn, select beets, carrots, parsnips, potatoes, turnips and the like for storage. Rinse them free of soil, but be careful not to bruise the skin. (Let excess water evaporate before storing.) Make a pit to put the box in, preferably on sloping ground so excess water will drain away. Put the box inside and lay a layer of clean, sharp builder’s sand (washed sand) on the box bottom. Then place a layer of root vegetables on top of this, resisting the temptation to just dump vegetables into the pit. Cover this first layer of root crops with a layer of sand, then continue layering like this until you fill the box, finishing with a layer of sand.
Try to keep different vegetables separate from one another, and if snow is likely to make them difficult to find, mark their location. For insulation, close the lid and cover it with bales of straw, and then cover this with a plastic sheet to keep out rain and snow. In the summer, when all the food has been taken from the box, clean everything out and let in sunshine and fresh air.
Built-In Basement Storage
Centrally heated homes with concrete floor basements are generally too warm to be used for cold storage because most vegetables and fruits require temperatures between 32 and 40 degrees. However, with a little ingenuity and investment, part of almost any basement can be successfully converted into a convenient root cellar.
Prepare a room that is separated from the rest of the basement, is reasonably insulated and has a window or other means of allowing cold outside air in on occasion to cool the space. You could try a storage room, about 8-by-10 feet, which should be plenty large for a modern gardener’s storage purposes. You can store 60 bushels of produce in this size room.
If possible, locate the storage room in the northeast or northwest corner of your basement, away from the chimney and heating pipes. The northeast corner takes advantage of the two coldest walls of a house. The northwest corner is second best. You have the added advantage when building into a corner of only having to construct two interior walls to enclose your storage space.
Even this setup won’t give you total control over temperature. That depends largely on the outside weather conditions. In early fall and late spring, daytime temperatures may be higher than you want in the storage area. So close the windows to keep the warmth out. Open the windows whenever the storage room temperature is higher than 40 degrees and the outside temperature is lower. Close them when the room temperature drops to 32 degrees. Obviously, a thermometer is a necessity in a root cellar. Train yourself to check the temperatures outside and inside the root cellar frequently.
Cover the windows with opaque material to keep light out of the storage area. Wide wooden shutters fitted to the outside of the window frame will help if you need to open the windows during the daytime. Also, cover the windows with screening to keep out pests.
Keep the storage room clean to prevent problems with bacteria and molds. The walls, floor, and ceiling should be made of easy-to-clean materials, and bins and storage shelves should be removable for cleaning. Take them outside on a dry summer day and dry brush them or scrub them with soapy water. Be certain they’re completely dry before replacing them in the root cellar. Open the windows and the door and let the breeze blow through the entire room.
Root cellaring is the oldest and simplest method of food preservation. It doesn’t require electricity, expensive or specialized equipment, or take up room in your fridge and freezer. The best part is that you can use what you already have—your home, commonly found containers, produce from your garden—and easily preserve many of your harvests for delightful eating throughout the winter.
This article originally appeared in the Sept./Oct. 2023 issue of Hobby Farms magazine.
I remember the day I walked into my local feed store to pick up Taylor, my Delaware chick. The lady at the store asked if I wanted to pick out my chick, and I eagerly accepted. About 10 Delaware chicks were eating, drinking and napping, except for one. She was standing there gazing up at me, looking into my eyes. I looked down at her and instantly knew she was the one I wanted.
Nine years have passed since that day, and every day when I go out to see my chickens, Taylor is there looking for me, just like she did the day we met. She hasn’t laid an egg in years and moves a little slower, but she is still as happy to see me as when she was younger.
While many people believe when a hen stops laying, there is no more use for her. They don’t know, however, that older hens can be of great value to the backyard flock owner. From teaching younger layers the ropes to brooding chicks and looking out for danger, our golden hens offer us as much joy today as they did in their younger years.
With the bonus of being the perfect companion for the flock owner, elderly hens are truly a joy to own. So before you butcher or rehome your aging hens, take a moment to consider some of the perks of owning these delightful birds.
Mama Hens
Did you know that older hens have a better success rate at brooding and raising chicks than younger hens? While no one knows why this is, there are several theories for this behavior.
Hormone Change
As hens age, so do their hormones. These hormones signify to a hen that her body is slowing in egg production, which may be enough change to cause a hen to go broody.
These same low hormone levels can also cause hens to go broody in the fall shortly before a molt.
Slowing Down
Older hens do not have the stamina found in pullets and younger hens, so being content to set on a nest of eggs is no big deal. Also, if the hen has had prior sitting experience, she is more likely to brood chicks successfully.
The Best Teacher
Young chickens have a lot to learn, and aged hens are exceptional at teaching them the ropes. Even if a hen doesn’t brood the youngsters, she will usually be the one to teach the newly introduced pullets everything they need to know.
One essential thing teenage chickens learn from older hens is how to behave around chickens higher in the pecking order and become a respected flock member. Older hens often hang out with new pullets and protect them from other flock members, ensuring the youngsters get access to the feeders and waterers without being severely bullied.
With Experience Comes Wisdom
Older hens have an advantage with all their years of experience. They know how to respond better to situations than younger birds.
Taylor is the first of my hens to notice that it’s getting dark and it’s time to head into the barn for the night. If my hens have some supervised free-ranging time, Taylor will round them up and start “herding” them to the barn. She is also the first to notice hawks or a neighbor’s cat. She then alerts the other hens to the danger or, if necessary, will even stand over the younger girls to protect them.
Pest Control
Aging hens are excellent at pest control. Having no eggs to lay means they spend all day eating pests and are a better choice for gardeners, as they tend to be less vigorous in their scratching. This trait allows them to help work your soil even after your garden has been planted and plants are established.
Important note: Older hens still love treats and other goodies, so make sure they don’t eat all the fruits and vegetables in your garden.
A Lifelong Friend
Nothing can compare to the bond you share with your older hen. These girls realize that most of their life is behind them and are content to enjoy life at a slower pace. Older hens (like older dogs) tend to display a more devoted affection than younger chickens and will gladly spend all day beside you if given the opportunity.
While younger hens are very affectionate to their owners, nothing can compare to the bond you share with an aged hen. Taylor and I have buried flock members and welcomed new chickens into the flock together. Honestly, I can’t imagine my life without her.
I know Taylor will no longer be with me one day, but I’ll never forget the lessons I have learned from her. Until that day comes, I will smile whenever I hear the sound of Taylor running after me as we do our evening chores together.
Next time your laying hens slow down egg laying, consider letting them live the rest of their years with you. You can experience for yourself the joy of older hens.
I’m not sureif critters get a bit bored with the same old pasture, but they can plainly see that what’s on the other side hasn’t been chomped and is therefore taller and smells fresher. The problem is animals can get in trouble when they break their confinement. Sadly, we all want what we don’t have, even if we have plenty and are safe right where we are.
That phrase “The grass is always greener on the other side” has been around for more than a century. It was probably born because some farmer noticed that his or her livestock would continually reach over the fence to nibble the greens on the other side. It didn’t take much time to relate the phrase even to human behavior.
Anyway, it should serve to illustrate the importance of livestock fencing.
Ins & Outs
Fencing is required to satisfy two important potential problems: how to enclose your livestock or poultry and how to keep predators and/or other humans out. To ensure success, you must consider several factors, the first being the species of livestock.
Animal Considerations
Each species of livestock has specific behavioral tendencies that dictate which type of fencing is going to be the most ideal. For instance, chickens can fly over low fences and all poultry may need protection from aerial attack. Swine tend to rout under fencing if it isn’t partially buried beneath the surface by at least a few inches of topsoil. Horses may tend to chew on wood fences destroying the top run of a board fence.
Give some thought concerning species you have or may have in the future.
Plan Ahead
Before you begin the build, check your local building codes to see if there are any restrictions as to type of building materials or height limitations in your city or county. Most rural settings have minimal requirements but err on the side of caution. Fences within city limits, however, may require a permit.
Ask in your city or county.
Fences along roadways are likely to have setback requirements. If you’re building a perimeter fence that includes property lines, establish the exact line, stay on your side, or follow closely and discuss with neighbors.
Style Selection
There are many styles of fences based on height and differing building materials. We’re only going to concentrate on fences that are practical for livestock. The factors to be considered must first start with the idea of confinement—not just any confinement but safe confinement.
You should know which predator types live in your area and what is the potential they have to harm or kill your livestock. Sheep and chickens are natural prey species and may require a bit of additional protection.
Money Matters
The last factor when considering livestock fencing is going to be cost. Because of the cost and ease of installation, galvanized wire fencing is often the best choice and will be the focus of our discussion. Wire mesh fencing may be sold under the names “field fencing,” “welded wire fence,” “woven wire” or simply “pasture fencing.”
The material will likely be sold in 50- to 330-foot rolls.
In addition to the length, consider the fencing height needed to secure your species of livestock. For instance, a 3-foot-high fence would be worthless for livestock; 4- or even 5-foot fencing is best for most livestock, especially poultry. To keep out deer, you’ll need at least a 6-foot barrier.
Note that horses and/or cattle may reach over the fence, pushing down the top wire over time. Therefore, you may want to consider adding a single strand of barbed wire above your mesh wire as an additional deterrent and providing a bit more height. Look for brands of fencing that have a heavier gauge wire as the top and bottom strands to minimize bending from critters that try to reach over or sneak under.
Field fencing is also sold in two or more thickness gauges. Always use the heaviest gauge wire that you can afford. Heavier wire will last longer, bend less and provide an additional layer of protection. You can use other materials for livestock fencing, but wood or vinyl fencing may not hold up to wind and the sun in the long term. Both types are potentially more costly.
A cyclone style fence is effective and attractive but once again too costly for a large pasture.
Bill Graves
Building Plans
The meat and potatoes of building a fence isn’t too complicated. I mentioned ease of installation, but that may be a bit understated. Fences do take some time and effort. If the fence is longer than a few hundred feet, it’ll also require a bit of walking, so an ATV/UTV or pickup truck may be a big asset. A second or third hand may also be needed.
Because building a fence requires activities to occur in a definite sequence, we’ll describe each procedure in order.The first step is to establish the corner locations and build adequate bracing. Included here are some photos of corner braces and how they should be built.
The central or main length of the fence is simply made up of straight lines, so metal tee posts are all that is needed. Use the heaviest tee posts you can afford, especially if you intend to confine horses or cattle.
On long runs, it’s best to add an additional beefier post or two in the middle of the span. A long span is considered a full length of 330 feet of wire. Common sense dictates bracing will also be needed when making splices in wire mesh fencing or when making any turns in the fence, even if it’s not 90 degrees.
Angling turns in fences will require bracing because the turn will become a point where you may need to pull the wire tight. Corners of 90 degrees absolutely require corner braces because you will be pulling the wire under high tension to make the wire taught.
Consider metal posts as corner bracing or metal in combination with wood. Corner braces should be concreted in place and allowed to dry before you proceed.
Once the corners have been set and cement allowed to dry, stretch out a string line. Using heavy construction string, pull from the corner braces at a height of 3 to 4 feet. Pull tight enough to minimize sagging.
Next, lay out your heavy tee posts along the string line with the bottom of the tee post laying near the string. The tee posts should be approximately 8 feet or less apart. When building a pasture fence with all wood posts, the span should be slightly less than 8 feet so a top spanning board can easily be added.
Bill Graves
In Go the Posts
Using a tee-post driver, now start setting posts. Make sure that you set all the posts with the ribbed portion of the tee post facing the inside of the pasture. That way the wire mesh fencing will be on the same side of the post as your livestock. Animals that push on the fence will be pushing against the post and not pushing the wire off the post.
Of course, on occasion you’ll have animals on both sides of a crossing fence, but it’s always good practice for perimeter fences.
To drive a post, use the string line to establish the bottom point. Holding the post up straight, place your driver up over the top. Drive the post to a point where the stabilizing blades are well beneath the topsoil and yet where you have about 8 inches of post above your finished fence height. Take this into account especially if you’re planning to add a strand or two of barbed wire.
Before the wire mesh is fastened, posts can be tapped down level and straightened to vertical by making slight bends using the driver as needed. If you’re working on a windy day, your string line will be thrown off, so occasionally make visual inspections.
A second set of eyes at one end can be a big help.
Wire to Wire
Once all your tee posts are set, roll out the wire mesh. Most quality fences are designed to keep animals from poking their noses through as they graze near ground level, and you may notice that the square openings are tighter at the bottom of the wire mesh.
Start by unrolling the mesh a short distance beyond your first corner bracing and in line about 5 feet from your post line. It may sound incorrect, but if you have the space, start the top of the spool closer to the post line and the bottom farther away such that the spool won’t want to roll up after its been flipped over.
As you begin, park your ATV or other heavy weight on the beginning of the roll. Now unroll the entire spool of wire to a point beyond the next brace point and again secure with a heavy weight or tie down the coil so it can’t spring back to a coil.
The following steps usually require more than one person. At the starting corner brace, move the hold down and start flipping the wire over and back towards the fence posts such that the wire can’t reroll itself. If you have the help, walk back and forth several times on the wire in order to flatten it to the ground taking out the springy tendency. Done properly, the fence won’t want to recoil, and the bottom edge should now be nearer to the bottom of each tee post.
When you feel the wire is flattened to the ground, use strong plastic cable ties and stand the fence up making temporary attachment points every third post or as needed. Your helper will probably have to hold up the wire as you proceed along the fence line. But when you reach the next brace, the mesh should be standing on its own and close to its final positioning.
The fence should now be attached firmly to one of the two corner braces (but not both) as you still need to stretch the wire. Use a pickup, a tree or other fixed spot to attach a come-a-long style hoist to pull the wire tight. This requires a little planning to decide which end to attach firmly and which end to park the truck.
Cut two pieces of wood 2-by-4 feet, drill some holes and clamp the two boards on either side of the fencing with 3/8th bolts so you can use a chain along with the come-a-long. The two boards should be as long as your fence is high and be well clamped with the bolts, otherwise you may distort the wire grid shape.
Use the hoist to pull the wire as tight as you can or until you’re happy with the tension and the look of your new fence. Be prepared for your temporary cable ties to snap as you pull. If you can, stretch wire on a warm afternoon because wire stretched on a cold day will relax and become looser when things begin to warm up.
Use appropriate fasteners to tee posts and staples wherever as required to wood posts. Go completely around your intended enclosed space in the same manner and you’ll be well on your way to a safe and beautiful fenced-in area.
More Information
Adding Gates
Before you get too far along—and as you’re considering your livestock fencing layout—decide where any gates might be placed. Even on small pastures, construct at least one gate so it’s possible to drive through with a full-size vehicle.
Bill Graves
A 10-to-12-foot gate is usually adequate or slightly more if you must approach the gate from an angle. See the photo above of a 10-foot gate with a closeup of a latch and hinges. Also note the bracing of the gate has been placed near a corner so the brace can serve double duty.
Wood Advice
If you must use wood posts only, toss a shovel of dirt in the post hole after setting the wood posts so the very bottom of the wood post is not “sealed” in the concrete. Unfortunately, sealing a wood post in concrete tends to promote rot.
Posts should be either 4-by-4-inch, pressure-treated wood or redwood. They should also be at least 8-feet long with 2-feet in the ground, longer if you have a very high fence.
Don’t cut posts off on the top until later. (Imagine if you cut your posts and decide later to add a strand or two of barbed wire or an electric strand to the top!)
This article originally appeared in the Sept./Oct. 2023 issue of Hobby Farms magazine.
Several years back, I spent hundreds of words here on HobbyFarms.com expounding on the benefits of wooden trailers and wagons. I highlighted several advantages offered by wood—it’s easy to modify, it’s not as slippery as metal when wet, it’s relatively quiet when hauling tools down a gravel road or bumpy field, etc.
But the main benefit I focused on his how easily wooden trailers and wagons can be repaired. You can rebuild wooden decks and sides from scratch if needed … which is good, because I’m afraid my trusty red wagon is due for a nearly complete overall.
A Reliable Tool
Technically, my red wagon is a two-wheeled trailer, not a wagon. But semantics aside, it’s one of the most heavily used pieces of equipment on my farm.
It was old and a bit beat up when I put it to work, and between me and its previous owner I can’t imagine how many miles it’s traveled. Throughout the spring, summer and fall, I use it almost endlessly to carry tree branches to brush piles, haul water to the trees in my orchard, transport dirt and compost, gather hay bales off fields, move tools and supplies, and more.
Usage Wear & Tear
But my red wagon is showing its age. Hauling water hasn’t been its favorite project. A small leak in a hose adapter on my 35-gallon leg tank (which I should really fix) means that the plywood decking gets wet in places, and over time the decking has gotten a little soft in one spot.
Not a big deal since it’s a small trailer and I don’t walk around inside. But it’s reaching the point where I’ll need to install new decking sooner rather than later.
The sides of the wagon are the bigger issue. The original lumber has lost so much paint that my red wagon is barely recognizable as “red” anymore. Along the way, the lumber has slowly deteriorated, and now large loads of branches and hay bales crack the wood as they lean one way or the other on bumpy ground.
My attempts to reinforce the sides with scraps of lumber worked for a while, but now it’s not enough. The original sides no longer hold screws or nails securely.
I rebuilt one side of the red wagon a number of years back, and it’s held up well. But the other two sides are on their last legs.
Circling back, that’s the advantage of a wooden trailer. If I were using a metal trailer that had rusted to the point where the sides and deck were failing, I’d be out of luck as far as DIY repairs are concerned—I’m no welding or metalworking expert.
But I can handle woodworking no sweat.
So that’s an upcoming project on my agenda: rebuild my trusty red wagon from the frame up. I’ll have to purchase new plywood for the decking, but I have a stash of lumber that will be perfect for the sides. I also have a hefty bucket of red paint left over from painting a barn that will make my red wagon red again.
It can be hard to set aside time for projects like this (the red wagon still works pretty well, despite its issues), but making the effort to take care of equipment is important. Take care of your equipment, and it will help you take good care of your farm. My red wooden trailer has served faithfully for many years, and it’s definitely earned a rebuild.
Of course a root cellar is on my wish list, and I will get one someday … but for now there are many ways to help prolong the life of your homegrown produce in a regular home. Between your coolest closet and using your refrigerator to its full potential, you can easily keep your veggies happy for months to come, even without a root cellar. And I think we all want to reduce food waste in any way we can.
The process that slowly sucks the life from produce is called transpiration. Even after plants are harvested, they are still “breathing.” This natural process lets harvested foods lose moisture through their skins. This is also a good reminder that a plant’s purpose is to grow again, not feed us. There are lots of simple ways to slow this down and keep food in good form longer—without a root cellar.
Set Your Goals
Start by knowing that certain varieties of potatoes, squash, onions, etc. simply store better, so if your goal is long-term storage, growing a crop developed for that purpose can get you extra months of storage. Harvest at the peak ripeness and take time right away to sort through and use any produce that has cuts, bumps or bruises first.
You’ll also add lots of storage time by curing your crop as needed. Curing is leaving harvested crops in a warm, protected area at a certain temperature with good air circulation for 10 to 30 days depending on the crop.
All these measures work towards slowing transpiration. It’s common sense then that the relative humidity plays a big part in storage time. In general, our homes hover around 50 percent humidity. Expect lower humidity in homes during the winter months when heaters are on. In general produce prefers higher humidity than our typical human comfort levels.
But we can play with those levels. We all know the coldest place in the house, usually a basement corner, or closet that we never go into. Even a few degrees and a little higher humidity can add weeks to your food. Storing potatoes in paper bags and cardboard boxes lets them breathe while holding a little extra moisture.
Refrigeration
Refrigerators run between 35 and 50 percent humidity. Using your crisper drawer and wrapping in plastic (we wash and reuse our plastic bags until they fall apart) can easily increase that to 65 percent. Many refrigerators also give the option of adjusting the humidity levels inside drawers, so make use of being able to increase that as well.
Some crops that do great in long-term refrigeration include apples, beets, carrots, cabbages, turnips and daikon radishes. I routinely store these for three to four months in my refrigerator. I will often add a damp paper towel in with my refrigerated veggies.
I also have great luck storing my carrots in damp sand in my attached garage. We live in Minnesota, though, and it can get down to 20 degrees F in our garage, so I do have to watch once January rolls around.
Cool Storage “Best Practices”
The guides below are to get you thinking where you have an environment closest to this in your home, not to stress about exact numbers you must hit.
Squash
Harvest before frost, leaving at least 2 inches of stem. Cure 10 to 20 days. Store in 50 to 55 degrees F with humidity around 60 percent. Pumpkins prefer slightly higher humidity at 75 percent.
Onions
Harvest once tops start to flop over, leaving tops intact. Cure three weeks or until tops are fully dried out. Store onions in something with good air flow at 45 to 55 degrees F and 60 to 70 percent humidity.
Potatoes
Harvest when it’s been dry and do not wash. Cure in a dark area 60 to 70 degrees F for around two weeks. Store between 45 to 55 degrees F in the dark with humidity over 80 percent. Do not store in refrigerator.
With a little planning we can be eating healthy from our gardens long into winter and spring. Isn’t that part of the homesteading dream?
Pro Tips
Don’t store onions next to potatoes. Potatoes release moisture quickly and will speed onion deterioration.
Apples (and many other fruits) release ethylene as they ripen and can hasten the rotting of other nearby produce, so it’s best to keep them in a separate place.
When someone thinks about raising their own livestock, they might picture the physical benefits that the animal will offer them such as fresh milk, cream and meat. But what you might have overlooked are the slightly-less tangible things a family can benefit from. These include a chance to grow a greater work ethic, the patience learned while working with an animal, and knowledge to not only care for animals but also deal with any emergencies that might arise in the herd.
Here are just some of the lessons raising cattle can teach you and enhance your family’s homesteading experience.
Grow Your Knowledge
It’s amazing how much better you learn something once you’ve done it for yourself, whether it’s locating milk replacer and mixing a bottle for the first time or researching what a proper feed ration looks like for your steer.
Raising cattle will throw you into plenty of situations where you learn important lessons and (hopefully) come out knowing a little more than you did before. As your animal grows, you’ll get a chance to learn more about mixing a proper ration of roughage, energy and protein, as well as where you want to source your ingredients all from.
If an emergency situation arises, you might need to either pull out something you learned about treating a particular ailment or contact a local vet for further direction. While books can be helpful resources, so can local ranchers or veterinarians. But once you’ve dealt with a situation, you’ll be more prepared should it arise a second time.
Expand Your Skill Set
Have you ever had to build a fence? What about a shelter? Or a feeder? Sometimes a person has to get creative when they’re starting out with a new endeavor (especially if they’re not looking to break the bank).
Eventually, you might learn other lessons and pick up important skills such as roping a steer, fixing a broken wire, sorting and moving cattle, pulling and backing a stock trailer or managing grassland.
Strong Work Ethic
Even if you don’t have a dairy cow that needs regular milking day in and day out, cattle need a regularly scheduled feeding (which can help to avoid bloat) and access to clean water.
Caring for your animals doesn’t quit on Christmas Day or pause when you want to go on vacation, so it’s important to really think through what you’re signing up for before you bring them home. Once they’ve arrived, though, you might find their company enjoyable and come to appreciate the little bit of routine and structure animal care adds to your day.
Teach Patience & Gentle Handling Practices
Sometimes the animal just doesn’t want to go where you want it to. Period.
While you may feel the temptation to get angry and loud, a gentle approach can be effective to eventually coax the animal into place. Working with and moving around cattle can be rather daunting, as they’re generally much larger and heavier than us, and this can give one an uneasy feeling if they can’t read animal behavior or predict movements before they happen.
As you work with and around large animals, though, you’ll learn where their flight zones are and where to stand, as well as when to back off and stop pushing them forward.
Produce Connections
My husband and I recently started a new project, and it’s interesting how we’re gaining connections and going places we never needed to go before. We’re learning things as we go and beginning to make different (and hopefully better) decisions based on what we learn from others.
As you continue into the world of cattle—whether it’s at sale barns, veterinarian offices, local extension offices, coops, feed mills or farm supply stores—you’ll get opportunities to visit with folks and make connections you might find helpful in future scenarios.
So whether you decide to dive right in for those tangible benefits like fresh milk or beef, or you’re looking forward to exciting life experiences ahead, now might be your time to jump into the world of raising cattle!
