Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Large Animals

Katahdins Are A Native, Easy-Keeping Sheep Breed

Katahdin sheep breed
Guy Sagi/Adobe Stock

For the independent homesteader, Katahdins have everything! The breed was developed in Maine during the 1950s by sheep farmer and amateur geneticist Michael Piel, who named his new breed after the tallest mountain in his state: Mount Katahdin. The hardy Katahdin combines excellent meat production and a rapid growth rate with vigorous reproduction, a self-shedding hair coat and the overall hardiness expected of an American production. Katahdins are also a naturally parasite-resistant sheep breed and produce abundant meat and milk on pasture. 

In the 10 years since I began raising Katahdins, I have fallen in love with these fluffy, stubborn, sweet-tempered sheep. Their hardiness and pasture-wisdom are just the qualities to recommend them to beginners as well as experienced shepherds. Smart, tough sheep that thrive on whatever happens to be growing—what’s not to like?

An Extraordinary Ovine

Katahdins have some great things to offer. They thrive on forage alone and make outstanding use of even very rough pasture and unimproved grazing land. They’re the best tool we know for reclaiming overgrown hillsides and waste fields or cleaning the understory of a forest. 

They also love weeds. Goldenrod, Queen Anne’s lace and blackberry briars are all favorite forages of the Katahdin—the more fibrous, the better. Even shrubs and bushes are food for this tough breed. So if you have pastures you want to improve naturally, bring on Katahdins.

This preference for wild foods is a great quality. In spring and fall, I graze my Katahdins in the woods, where the sheep find and eat a wide variety of plants, nuts and fruits. I find the more places I let my sheep forage, the better. Maybe it just follows that Katahdins are also ideal for reducing invasive plant species.

Japanese knotweed, for example, an aggressive invasive in the northeastern United States, is a favorite meal for my flock. 

When it’s young and tender, they eat it right down to the ground, letting in sunlight to encourage new and more desirable ground covers. If they graze it later in the year, when it can be as much as 8 feet in height, my determined Katahdins will still strip all the leaves, stunting or killing the unwanted plants. This breed helps with farm work!

Katahdin sheep breed grass
Masha Dougherty

Natural Management

As hair sheep, Katahdins certainly fit shepherds who practice holistic grazing. Their short hair means they ground an electrical charge more easily than their thick-fleeced cousins do. This is a great advantage for sheep farmers. Why? Most folks who manage sheep with electric fencing—a necessity for holistic rotational grazing—must use bulky netting panels to contain their animals. 

I prefer to avoid electric netting for sheep. First, lambs can get entangled, and an animal subjected to repeated shock can die. Secondly, electric netting is a pain to move. It tangles easily. A roll of fence is bulky, heavy and awkward to carry and set up. And panels make the logistics of paddock moves difficult and complicated. 

I’m glad my sheep can be kept in with polytwine: two strands for adult animals, three when the flock includes lambs. There isn’t a need to buy a high-powered charger, either. I often use a small solar energizer of only 0.75 joules. The advantages of simple equipment go beyond making the chores easier. With the flexibility of light-weight reels and twine and a solar charger, I can take my sheep to more places on the farm, utilizing out-of-the-way forages and grooming hard-to-reach areas.

The increased efficiency saves me time and money.

Holistic grazing saves money in more ways than one, especially for breeds such as the Katahdin. Because they’re naturally parasite-
resistant and easy to control, it’s easy to keep these sheep healthy. Frequent moves mean they leave grazed areas before these become infested with worms, something that can be difficult to accomplish with breeds not as well adapted to temporary fence systems. 

No plan for holistic grazing is complete without water and minerals. Fortunately, Katahdins are easy sheep to provide for. 

On pasture, sheep typically drink very little water. A 5-gallon bucket refilled daily may be sufficient for 10 or more sheep. I also keep a copper-free salt block constantly available. (It’s important to avoid mineral blocks that include copper, which can cause toxic buildup in a sheep’s liver.) 

Katahdins’ mixed forage diet provides the bulk of their mineral needs. Some dried kelp offered as an occasional treat takes care of the rest.

Katahdins are hardy animals, and except at times when the weather is extreme or the lambs are very small, the sheep don’t require shelter. Their hair coats are waterproof and provide good insulation. 

Here in northern Appalachia where I live, temperatures may drop below zero on many winter nights. But the cold isn’t a problem for my adult animals. 

During the hottest summer months, I do make sure they have access to shade. Other than that, the infrastructure necessary for Katahdin sheep is minimal.

Breeding & Culling

As with any livestock, it makes a big difference to start with strong breeding stock. I learned this the hard way! My first Katahdins were cull animals from a neighboring farm. That was a big mistake. Although they were strong and healthy, they had mothering problems.

It took three years of uncompromising culling to establish the sound, reliable genetic pool I enjoy now. Don’t be afraid to enact draconian selection practices. The most reliable and effective way to avoid problems is to eliminate problem individuals. 

Katahdins are friendly and tractable, making for ease of management and milking. This breed rewards the regular handling inherent in intensive grass management. Even rams are typically gentle, but don’t let them get too familiar. Any animal may behave aggressively if it sees you as its equal. Never hesitate to replace an aggressive animal. You want to avoid injury and aggressive characteristics reproduced in your flock.

Katahdin lambs mature young, resulting in early availability for breeding. Ewes can be bred at 6 months. They conceive readily, and the rams are typically fertile throughout the year. It follows that you could have as many as three lambings in two years, while the Katahdin’s tough grazing genetics make it a good mother. 

Lambing problems ceased to be an issue as selection improved my flock genetics. Just a hint, though: Be sure to remove male lambs from the breeding flock by 4 months of age to avoid undesirable conceptions.

Although I like ewes to lamb in the barn between December and February (a period of unpredictable weather for my region), the rest of the year my flock lambs in the field. Katahdins seldom need assistance.  

Katahdin sheep breed lamb
britaseifert/Adobe Stock

Natural Health

Katahdins are one the most labor-free flocks you could have. They are less prone to common diseases, and when they are grazed on diverse pasture, they instinctively self-medicate with native plants. This, with Katahdins’ natural parasite-resistance, eliminates the need for toxic dewormers. On the rare occasions when I have seen signs of parasite infestation (a manurey tail or distended belly), the issues have rectified themselves without intervention.

Although much of their resistance is attributable to breed, management is a factor, too. When animals are moved to fresh native pasture on a frequent basis, as in intensive rotational grazing systems, few problems arise. 

I owe my experience with sheep diseases almost exclusively to my conventional neighbors, whose constantly grazed pastures build up soil-borne pathogens. Holistic grazing repays the work involved. I’m reminded of the saying: “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

Paying Their Way

Katahdins’ growth rate and carcass quality make them a hot commodity on the meat and breeding markets. First, losses are drastically reduced by their parasite-resistance. This breed’s fertility results in flock increases of an average of almost 200 percent per year. The fact that they’re hair sheep eliminates the need to pay for shearing, and their ability to survive on forage alone does away with the No. 1 cost in most sheep operations: grain.

For the homesteader, Katahdins’ size makes these sheep great candidates for home processing. Two people can butcher a medium-sized ram in less than two hours. And for folks that live off-grid, the smaller carcass, consumable in a short time, eliminates the need for refrigeration. Plus, Katahdin meat has a rich tenderness and very mild lamb flavor, making it popular even among lamb critics. 

Milk is another reason to raise Katahdins. Ewes can produce up to 2 quarts of rich, nutrient-dense milk per day, perfect for making rich, fragrant cheeses. Milk from forage has the highest levels of phytochemicals, making it especially healthful. And the tractable nature of this breed means they’re naturals for dairying. Of course, if they are used for milk, it needs to be taken into account that the lambs will need to be raised on artificial means.

Financially, you can start a Katahdin flock very economically. Aside from the cost of the initial fence and breeding stock, raising Katahdins won’t break the bank. In fact, they’re going to save you money, because they reduce lawn care time and costs. Grazed year round, Katahdins utilize forage almost as well as cows, with the added benefit that they can graze the same paddocks multiple times in winter, since their impact is light.

I’m grateful for that flock of cull Katahdins of 10 years ago. They taught me so much. Today, Katahdins fill such an important role on our farm that I can’t imagine the place without them. From low maintenance to lamb chops, pasture improvement to parasite resistance, this American breed stands out. They are truly a homestead winner. 

More Information

Lamb Formula Recipe

I rarely see bottle lambs today, but when I do, I mix my own lamb formula: two cups of cow’s milk, an egg and a sprinkle of sugar. That’s it!

The sugar adds energy and palatability, while the egg provides extra protein and aids digestion. Before I got my flock’s genetics worked out, I had a couple bottle lambs per year, and this formula always pulled them through.

This article originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Hobby Farms magazine.

Masha Dougherty lives on a small farm in Toronto, Ohio. She enjoys reading philosophy and baking bread, as well as all aspects of farming, especially caring for her flock of Katahdin sheep.

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Large Animals

Control Parasitic Worms In Sheep With FAMACHA

sheep worms FAMACHA
Maria Sbytova/Adobe Stock

If you’re a seasoned sheep owner (or even if you are new), you’re probably no stranger to the issue of worms. Worm infestations are a common concern among sheep farmers, often leading to health problems for the flock. One particularly troublesome parasite is the barber pole worm, notorious for its ability to attach to the stomach wall, causing bleeding and feeding off the blood. Consequently, long-term and severe infestations with this worm can result in anemia in your sheep. Sometimes you’ll see with barber’s pole worm infection a state that is called “bottle jaw,” which is a fluid swelling beneath the jaw.  

This is where the FAMACHA score comes into play as a valuable tool in managing worms in your sheep and your overall flock health. Developed in South Africa and introduced to the United States by the American Consortium for Small Ruminant Parasite Control (ACSRP), the FAMACHA score involves assessing the mucosal tissue, primarily the lower eyelid, to gauge the level of anemia in your sheep. The scoring system ranges from 1 to 5, with 1 representing the healthiest, pinkest eyelids and 5 indicating severe paleness, signaling anemia. 

So, why is understanding and utilizing the FAMACHA score crucial in managing infestations of worms in your sheep? Let’s delve into the details. 

The Logic Behind FAMACHA Score-Based Treatment 

The ACSRP recommends treating only those sheep falling within the 3 to 5 range on the FAMACHA scale. Surprisingly, this means that you shouldn’t treat the sheep with pink lower eyelids. But why? The answer lies in the potential for drug resistance to worming medications. 

Some worms can develop resistance to certain types of wormers. If you administer wormer medication to all your sheep indiscriminately, you may kill the worms that aren’t resistant while leaving the drug-resistant ones unaffected. Consequently, these drug-resistant worms can continue to reproduce, potentially leading to the creation of “super worms,” a situation you definitely want to avoid. 

However, by selectively treating only the sheep that genuinely require deworming, you allow the coexistence of both resistant and non-resistant worms in your flock. Over time, these worms interbreed, diluting the gene pool with worms that are more susceptible to the worm medicine. The ACSRP refers to this concept as “parasite refugia,” and it substantially increases your chances of effectively managing worm infestations in the future. 

Reducing Medication Usage 

One of the most significant advantages of monitoring your flock’s FAMACHA score is the potential to reduce your reliance on wormer medications.

Surprisingly, it’s estimated that approximately 70 to 80 percent of infections occur in just 20 to 30 percent of the animals. This information can inform your future breeding decisions, allowing you to selectively breed animals with greater resistance to worm infestations. 

Special Considerations for Lambs and Nursing Ewes 

It’s essential to note that recently weaned lambs and nursing ewes are particularly susceptible to worm infestations. Given their vulnerability, it’s advisable to err on the side of caution when in doubt. If you have any reservations about a lamb’s health, it’s best to go ahead and deworm it to prevent potential complications. 

FAMACHA Certification & Resources 

If you are really interested in using the FAMACHA score, the University of Rhode Island offers an online FAMACHA certification class. While the course is free, it does require some effort on your part, such as creating a video demonstrating the proper techniques for testing one or more animals. This certification can be a valuable asset in managing your flock’s health effectively. 

Additionally, the ACSRP’s website is a fantastic resource for sheep owners, covering a wide range of topics related to parasite control and flock health. It’s a valuable resource to bookmark and return to whenever you have questions or concerns about your sheep’s well-being. 

The FAMACHA score is a powerful tool in your arsenal for managing your flock’s health and combating worms in your sheep. My plan is to work on this course over the fall and become certified by November or December. 

By using this scoring system wisely, you can reduce the need for medication, prevent the proliferation of drug-resistant worms, and make informed breeding decisions for a healthier and more resilient flock.  

Your sheep will thank you for it!

 

Categories
Farm & Garden Homesteading Projects

Painting Antiques & Vintage Farmhouse Furniture Pieces

paint furniture farmhouse
images by Stephanie Staton

Being rural, especially when your farm is remote, can make access to just about anything challenging. Recipe calls for exotic ingredients? Search the Internet for a more accessible substitution. Need an appliance part ASAP? Order online and wait for it to ship. Need a certain color dresser for your bedroom refresh? You could order online, or you could refinish something that you already own or picked up secondhand.  

Some furniture pieces are easy to identify for a paint refresh, but others—such as antiques and vintage pieces—can be a little daunting and might even come with a degree of heat from your peers. 

Honestly, any furniture you choose to paint is just that: your choice. No one else’s opinion really matters, but I know that mind doesn’t always manage to trump matter, especially when that matter involves family and friends. So, to secure your peace of mind and help quiet the naysayers, you should consider a few factors before wielding a paint brush: age, condition, value and material.

Age

Start by determining the age of the furniture piece you have in mind. According to Deidre Mundorf at Bob Vila, items that are 100 years or older fall into the antique category, items that are more than 300 years old are antiquities or artifacts, and vintage items fall between the ages of 20 to 99 years. The sneakiest label is that of “retro,” which includes newer items made to mimic older ones. 

painting pieces farmhouse

Finding the age can be as simple as looking on the back, underside or in the drawers for the stamped date or a label. You can also search brands and patent numbers online.  

Condition

Next, evaluate the condition of the piece. Is there damage and to what degree? Faded, cracked and even chipped paint is minor. The more damage, the less desirable a piece will be. 

For instance, my dog chewed so far into the leg of my antique dresser that I worried the stability might be compromised. It also had suffered water damage prior to purchase and has countless dings and scratches. All in all, it had a lot of damage. 

Value

The age and condition of your furniture will have a huge impact on its market value. Unless you know a professional in the antiques or vintage market, your best options for determining the current value are to search comparable pieces online or to get an appraisal. 

For my Drexel dresser, I found a company who offers 24- and 48-hour turnarounds on appraisals. I uploaded several pictures of the dresser, including labels, serial numbers, an overall shot and close-ups of the damage. Two days later, I got my response: $50 to $60. 

Material

For the sake of space in this article (and mental capacity in my brain), I’m focusing on painting wood furniture. Know now, there are purists out there who believe no wood should ever be painted. I’m not one of them, but I do believe in taking a measured approach.

I prefer not to paint items that are solid wood unless the condition and/or cost to get it back to stain grade is prohibitive. 

Exotic or expensive hardwoods are considered stain-grade for a reason, but condition may overrule this guideline. An inexpensive, soft wood such as pine that is a recent production (channel your inner IKEA hacks here) is an excellent candidate for paint in my humble opinion. Plus, wood can absorb smells, which can be difficult to eliminate without resorting to a paint or sealant to lock in odors. 

Painting Your Old Furniture

Well, you’ve made it this far, so painting your furniture isn’t out of the question. Don’t run off to the paint store just yet. Consider what type of paint will work best for your project: 

Oil-Based

Wood is a porous surface and can easily absorb oils, which can damage its fibers. Avoid using oil-based paints on wood. These are better served for metal refinishing. However, if you’re painting over another paint and aren’t sure if it’s oil- or water-based, you might consider using oil-based for your project. 

Water-based paints won’t adhere well to oil-based, whereas, oil-based will adhere to both types. Be sure to paint in an open-air space for maximum ventilation. These paints have high volatile organic compounds that aren’t good to breathe.

Water-Based

Water-based paints are often easier to come by, have lower VOCs (and therefore odors), and are easier to work with and clean up. The finish isn’t quite as durable as an oil-based, but the ease of use and access often win out.

There are plenty of water-based paints with an even greater variety of finishes. Here are four of the most common types used for furniture: 

  • latex paint
  • chalky paint
  • milk paint
  • acrylic paint

Let’s Get To Work

Here’s how to paint wood furniture. 

Prep

Take drawers out and doors off, then remove hardware. The last thing you want to do is inadvertently paint the drawers and/or doors shut. Wipe away any sticky or gummy residues with a degreaser. The residue could affect the adhesion of fillers and trying to sand them would only make a bigger mess. 

paint furniture farmhouse

Use wood filler to patch deep gouges and other major damage, applying the filler in layers, sanding in between, and following the product instructions for dry time.

Once you achieve smooth coverage, lightly sand the whole piece. Be careful not to go too deep with the sanding. We just want to rough up the surface. 

“Start with 80- to 100-grit sandpaper, switch to 150-grit or higher sandpaper to remove any remaining finish, and then smooth out the surface,” says Rachel Brougham at Bob Vila.

Paint

Wipe the surface with tack cloth or a damp rag—don’t use paper towels or rags that shed to avoid further debris. Apply a thin layer of primer or paint/primer all in one. Let dry fully.

paint furniture farmhouse

Check paint label for dry times, and add extra for high humidity environments. 

Sand (optional)

This step will help give you the smoothest final finish. Lightly sand the paint, wipe the surface to remove dust and apply another thin coat of paint and let dry fully. Repeat this step until desired coverage is achieved.

painting pieces farmhouse

I did three coats on the frame and drawers and four coats on the top. 

Seal (optional)

If this piece will endure heavy use or be outside, consider adding a protective finish.

“If you are painting a piece of furniture that will not be heavily used, you may be able to skip the sealer,” says Carrie Spalding at Lovely Etc., a popular DIY website. “If you do, be sure to be extra gentle with your furniture for the first month of use. Even though the paint may feel dry to the touch, it can take up to 30 days for it to fully harden. 

Be sure to select the finish based on your needs and the paint you used. (Note: Some topcoats can yellow the finish. Be sure to select a nonyellowing sealant.) Let the topcoat cure for the recommended time before moving.

Finish

Put on hardware and reassemble. Place your furniture, decorate and enjoy!

Painting a piece of furniture, regardless of its age, all comes down to personal preference. If you aren’t looking to grow a piece’s historic value or if you think refinishing/painting it could potentially increase its value (even if it’s just in your eyes), then I say go for it. You’re ultimately the client in this situation, and your happiness is what matters most.

More Information

Resources

There are plenty of opinions out there when it comes to painting furniture pieces. Here are a few that helped me. 

Appraisals

Choosing a Topcoat

Defining and Determining Antique vs. Vintage

Dos and Don’ts of Painting

  • Bob Villa

Painting Antiques and Vintage Pieces

Types of Paint

This article appeared in Hobby Farm Home, a 2024 specialty publication produced by the editors and writers of Hobby Farms magazine. In addition to this piece, Hobby Farm Home includes recipes, crafting projects, preservation tips and more. You can purchase this volume, Hobby Farms back issues as well as special editions such as Healing Herbs and  Goats 101 by following this link.

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Large Animals Poultry

Say Cheese! For Recent Reader Livestock Photos

say cheese livestock farm animals photos
Lucy Webster | Camas, Washington

The editors of Hobby Farms magazine are always on the hunt for great photos of livestock looking good while they say cheese.

In a recent print issue, we ran the best photos submitted by readers. Each one includes the name and city of residence of the person who submitted it.

Upload the very best digital images of your small- farm livestock to HobbyFarms.com/say_cheese or email them directly to hobbyfarms@hobbyfarms.com, with “Say Cheese!” in the subject line. Include your name and address in the body of the email.

We hope to see your photos in an upcoming issue and on our Instagram account!

Barbara Ilijic  | Canton, North Carolina

say cheese livestock farm animals photos

Lydia Sims | St. Cloud, Florida

say cheese livestock farm animals photos

Nicole Maki | Ashland, Wisconsin

livestock farm animals photos

Suzy Sarna | Durham, Maine

say cheese livestock farm animals photos

Shad Arnold | Valley Mills, Texas

say cheese livestock farm animals photos

Jillian Shuttleworth | Roberta Georgia

livestock farm animals photos

Brandie Denard/Suni-Bear Farms | Pinson, Alabama

say cheese livestock farm animals photos

Nate Stoltzfus | Spring Glen, Pennsylvania

Brianna Kannon | Hitchcock, Oklahoma

livestock farm animals photos

Devon Ballard-Hudson | Shepherdsville, Kentucky

say cheese livestock farm animals photos

This “Say Cheese” gallery originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Hobby Farms magazine.

 

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Flock Talk Poultry

The Honest Truth About 5 Popular Chicken Breeds (Pt. 1)

chicken breeds Ameraucana
Andrew Jones/Adobe Stock

Before I started writing for Hobby Farms and Chickens, before I focused my journalism on agricultural topics, I was known as the Chelsea Chicken Lady—one of the two individuals responsible for getting the city of Chelsea, Michigan, to legalize backyard flocks. But even before that, I was a longtime chicken owner, helping friends, family, neighbors and perfect strangers choose chicken breeds and navigate poultry issues. I was called on for help during Chick Days by local feed and farm-supply stores and folks knew I exhibited my birds at poultry shows around the Midwest. And long before that, I was a kid who helped take care of her grandmother’s rooster and hens. 

It’s safe to say that chickens have been part of my life for most of my existence. It’s also safe to say that, over the years, I’ve gotten to know numerous different breeds of chickens. My close association with poultry has given me insight into these chicken breeds, insight that many microflock owners have counted on to help guide their breed choices with questions like, “I’m thinking about [insert breed of interest here], and I read that they are docile/flighty/aggressive/poor layers/great mothers/etc. What’s the honest truth?” 

The honest truth is that I can only go by my decades of experience. I do know that what I’ve encountered with a few chicken breeds completely contradicts the general information found online. So … get out your salt shaker, because those grains of salt may come in handy as you read my honest truth about the 18 chicken breeds we’ve raised over the years. Here are the first five.  

Ameraucana  

We added White, Blue and Black Ameraucanas (pictured above) to our farm because of their beautiful baby-blue eggs, the same kind laid by their rarer Araucana cousins. We had read that, like Araucanas, Ameraucanas had reproductive issues due to genetics. To our delight and relief, this was never evidenced in our flock.

The Ameraucana girls laid an average of three to four eggs each per week, and every Ameraucana egg we incubated hatched. And we didn’t have to incubate many. The Ameraucana girls surprised us again by being almost as broody as our Orps … not necessarily a good thing when we had customers waiting for blue-egg dozens.

Our Ameraucana hens were fabulous mothers, guiding their chicks well into adulthood. Pullets actually stayed with their mothers as adults, creating little multigenerational girl groups in our flock. We made another unexpected discovery about Ameraucanas, too. They turned out to be our longest-producing layers, with our girls regularly laying at least one egg per week well into their sixth year—and some beyond.

These Ameraucanas also turned out to be our longest-lived chickens. Our Black Ameraucana, Dolly, turned 11 this past June. Our Ameraucana boys were also nothing to sneeze at. After our Orpingtons, our Ameraucana roosters were our best guardians, always watching for predators or anything unusual in their runs or in our yard. Our Blue Ameraucana rooster, Jefferson, was one of my all-time favorite roosters. He wasn’t as cuddly as my Orpington boys—our Ameraucanas basically tolerate our presence—but he protected his flock, fathered many chicks, and never failed to make his hens his priority.  

Old English Game Bantam 

chicken breeds Old English game bantam
pimmimemom/Adobe Stock

We never intended to raise Old English Game Bantams, or any kind of bantam for that matter. Bantams would not produce eggs of a marketable size, and integrating them with a large-fowl flock would be almost impossible. We had already made accommodations—figuratively and literally—for our Silkies. We were set … until I made a run to our farm-supply store and heard the cheeping from the Chick Days stock tanks.

I instantly fell in love with the teeny baby chicks with the chipmunk stripe down their backs. I could fit three of them on the palm of my hand! They were so dainty. I couldn’t resist.

I had absolutely no idea what breed these babies were. They were listed as “Assorted Bantams.” Dedicated research determined that these chicks were Old English Game Bantams. I was horrified to read that this bird was originally bred to game fight, was aggressive, highly active, and would not interact well with other chicken breeds.

Uh oh

I soon discovered that these write-ups were completely wrong. Not only were our Old English Game Bantams friendly with us, they endeared themselves to the other chicks in our brooder. Everybody wanted to be their friends, and the nightly chick-carpet snoozefest had the Old English Game Bantams smack in the center. When it was time to move our juveniles to their coops, the Old English Game Bantams went along, happily settling in with our Easter Eggers.

The star of the trio was Belle, named so because she was a pretty little princess. While all three of our Old English Game Bantams eagerly rushed over to greet us, Belle would wait for me to put out my palm. She’d then hop onto my hand and, from there, to my shoulder.

Belle was my pseudo parrot. She adored perching up there while I completed my outdoor chores. She was the epitome of affectionate.

In fact, Belle was the little chicken that attended all the organizational meetings that led to the city of Chelsea approving backyard-flock ownership. The council members were enchanted by the charming little Belle, who happily let anyone who so desired hold her. Never did we witness any aggression towards us or any humans or any combative tendencies towards the other birds.

The Old English Game Bantams were indeed highly active. They behaved like kids in a candy shop, running all over the yard, investigating everything. We chose to discontinue breeding the Old English Game Bantams to focus on the standard breeds, but I would definitely recommend this chicken to anyone seeking a cute poultry pet.  

Orpington 

chicken breeds Orpington
angiehunt111/Adobe Stock

One of my top three chicken breeds, my husband, Jae, and I started raising Orpingtons because they were on the Livestock Conservancy’s Priority List of endangered poultry species. In addition, Orpingtons were supposed to be docile and affectionate.

Over the years, we have raised Buff, White, Black, Blue, Lavender and Jubilee Orpingtons. With only one exception—Angel, the first Buff Orpington cockerel we hatched—every single one of our Orpingtons has been gentle, friendly and sweet in disposition. All of our roosters (except Angel) have been carefully attentive of their hens, calling them for treats, alerting them to possible predators, and firmly shepherding them as they roam our acreage.

They were also excellent fathers. In fact, two of our boys—Arnold and Claude—set eggs briefly so the broody of the moment could stretch her legs. Our Orpington hens were excellent layers, producing an average of four to five large brown eggs weekly.

I estimate about half of the girls would go broody at the drop of a hat. One of our Black Orpington hens, Fitz, was so enamored with motherhood that she hid 18 of her eggs under a shrub, then led us on a frantic search one night when she wasn’t present for lock-up. We transferred Madame Broody and her enormous clutch to a brooder, and of course all 18 successfully hatched.

Orpingtons are excellent foragers; swift demolishers of stray toads, mice and snakes; and incredibly intelligent. Observation taught them where their humans emerged with those tasty kitchen scraps, and for years we’d find a mob of Orps waiting for us outside our kitchen sliding-glass door. The bolder ones would rap on the door with their beaks to call us.

Orpingtons were one of the chicken breeds that launched our poultry farm and, years later, they are still our main breed.  

Silkie 

chicken breeds silkie
taitai6769/Adobe Stock

It’s hard not to love a Silkie. This living fluffball is so gentle and endearing that you’ll want to own them all.

That’s pretty much what happened to us. We started with a quartet of Buff Silkies. The next thing we knew, we had Blue Silkies, Black Silkies, White Silkies and Splash Silkies. We kept bearded and beardless, and all of them were adorable, though we soon phased out our beardless bunc. (They just weren’t “poofy” enough for us.)

Everything I’d read about this lovable breed’s disposition was true. Silkies are amazingly tolerant. My sons carried them in fair parades, tucked them under an arm to search for Easter eggs with them, sat on the couch—inside!—and read with them on their laps. Silkies are the perfect pet chicken.

They’re also amazing setters and mothers. If Orpingtons go broody at the drop of a hat, Silkies go broody at the blink of an eye, even on golf balls and rocks. Our Silkie hens weren’t great layers—each averaged about two to three eggs per week—but they happily hatched and raised other poultry’s young and continued to mother them even when the chicks were fully adult.

There are some drawbacks to these beautiful bantams, however. They are terrible foragers, even in their own enclosed run, possibly because their vision can be obscured by head fluff. Silkies are also short on brains. I’ve lost count how many times we’ve had to show our Silkies the entrance to their coop, the location of their nestboxes, how to perch, how to drink from their waterer, etc. The term “birdbrain” was probably coined after an encounter with a Silkie.

They also do poorly in cold weather due to their feather structure. Still, Silkies are ideal for exhibition, their striking looks winning them many prizes. They’re also perfect microflock poultry, especially for small urban and suburban yards. Of all the chicken breeds we’ve raised over the years, Silkies—chicks and hatching eggs—have always been our best sellers. Silkies join Orpingtons as one of our original breeds and one of our top three favorites.   

Wyandotte 

chicken breeds Wyandotte
illuminating images/Adobe Stock

Like the Orpington, the Wyandotte was one of the first chicken breeds we raised on our poultry farm, and for the same reasons: They were on the Livestock Conservancy’s Priority List and were described as friendly, docile and great for families with children.

We began with six Silver-Laced Wyandotte chicks, which we raised the exact same way as our half-dozen Orpington babies. The birds received lots of cuddles, TLC and hand-fed mealworm treats to train them to recognize and trust us. While this method—which we still use—worked wonderfully with the Orpingtons, the Wyandottes grew less and less affectionate as they grew up.

Stunning birds, the Wyandottes were a very cohesive flock. The hens always stayed within a few feet of their rooster. The hens produced an average of four large brown eggs per week, but showed absolutely no tendency towards broodiness. In all honesty, they were an excellent backyard breed: reliable layers, excellent foragers and beautiful to behold.

But I just couldn’t get past their aloof attitude, especially when they were described as friendly.

I bought four baby pullets—also Silver Laced—from a different breeder just in case our Wyandottes’ disposition stemmed from inbreeding. Unfortunately, these new girls showed the exact same attitude towards us … and towards our older Wyandottes. Our existing flock completely ignored the younger quartet, even though the pullets joined the original flock outdoors once they were old enough to leave the brooder. There were no pecking-order squabbles or hen fights between the two groups. They simply acted as if the other birds were invisible.

I was mystified and perturbed and, ultimately, decided that Wyandottes weren’t for us. Despite their beauty, their excellent laying and foraging, and their tight-knit devotion to their group, that detached, cold composure simply didn’t click with me. Wyandottes were the first breed we discontinued. 

Stayed tuned for future installments of this honest look at popular chicken breeds!

Categories
Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Food Recipes

Recipe: Easy, Super Tasty Fermented Green Beans  

fermented green beans
shaiith/Adobe Stock

It seems like every few days I’m harvesting handfuls of beans from my garden. We love to eat them fresh off the vine, but one can only eat so many beans. A great way to preserve beans, besides freezing them, is make some fermented green beans.  

As with most recipes I write, the process is super simple. Feel free to add additional herbs, such as dill, as you desire to transform the flavor. 

Enjoy these fermented green beans as a quick, healthy snack or chop them up and add them to a salad. They make a delicious cucumber pickle substitute and garnish a Bloody Mary perfectly.  

Yield: 1 quart jar 

Ingredients 

Main
  • 1/2 pound green beans (tender ones) 
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed 
  • Optional for spice: 1 jalapeno (or hotter pepper of choice), sliced into quarters 
Brine
  • 1 tbsp. coarse kosher salt, dissolved in 2 cups water 

Instructions 

Wash beans and trim off both ends to fit your canning jar (about 5 1/2 inches long). 

Place the garlic at the bottom of the jar and pack in the beans vertically. Try to fit the beans as snug as possible, without bruising or damaging them. During fermentation they will shrink and begin to float. If adding hot peppers, pack them within the beans. 

Once the jar is packed, pour in the brine until the beans are completely submerged and covered by at least 1/2 inch of brine, but be sure to leave 1 to 2 inches of headspace in the jar (space from the top of the beans to the rim of the jar). Leaving some space will help keep the ferment from bubbling over during fermentation. 

If you have a small fermentation jar weight, add it to the jar to hold down the produce under the brine. Remove any small pieces of food that float up to the top of the brine, as anything above the brine will increase the risk of mold and, ultimately, spoilage.  

Wipe off the rim of the jar with a clean, dampened towel. Add the canning jar lid and tightly screw on the ring. 

Fermentation 

These fermented green beans are a 10 to 14 day ferment. Ferment at room temperature, ideally between 60 to 75 degrees F, and keep out of direct sunlight. 

Check on the ferment daily to make sure that the brine is covering all the produce. If any produce has floated above the brine level, use a clean utensil to push it back below the brine.  

Burp the jar daily—unscrew the lid briefly and tighten it back on to allow any built-up gas to release (and avoid possible jar breakage or the ferment from overflowing). 

After 10 days, taste the beans and see if they taste garlicky, tangy and a bit sour. If they still taste too much like raw beans, allow them to ferment another couple days and taste them again. Once fermentation is complete, transfer the jar into the refrigerator, with the brine and all. 

Fermentation does not stop once the ferment is transferred to the refrigerator. However, it does slow the process way down. The taste and texture will continue to change, therefore this ferment is best enjoyed within 12 months. 

Side Notes 

If you do not have a glass jar weight, you can improvise by using an easily removable small food-grade glass dish that fits inside the jar. Or, if you have a smaller glass canning jar that can fit into the mouth of the jar you are fermenting with, you can use that to keep the produce pushed under the brine. 

If you are unsure if your water is safe for fermentation, you can boil it and allow it to cool to room temperature before stirring in the salt to make your brine. 

You may substitute fine sea salt instead of coarse kosher salt if you prefer. The measurement will remain the same for this recipe. 

It is completely normal for the brine to turn cloudy during fermentation or to see sediment on the beans. This is a sign that fermentation is taking place, just as it should.  

This recipe has been adapted from Stephanie Thurow’s Can It & Ferment It, with permission from Skyhorse Publishing Inc. 

Categories
Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Homesteading

Control Extra Rainwater With Bioswales & Rain Gardens

bioswales rain gardens
Nathan Hutchcraft/Adobe Stock

No matter where you live and garden, odds are you’ve noticed at least some changes in your local weather patterns over the last several years. Throughout much of the United States, for instance, we’ve seen new extremes—more intense rains punctuated by prolonged periods of drought.

A 2019 research brief released by the policy-neutral nonprofit group Climate Central notes that for every degree Fahrenheit rise in temperature, our atmosphere can hang onto about 4 percent more water vapor. That means as temperatures go up, the stage is set for even heavier deluges when it does rain. Climate Central researchers analyzed the rainiest days of the year for 244 U.S. cities and determined that, “Since 1950, the wettest day of the year has gotten wetter in 79 percent of the cities analyzed.

“In addition to getting stronger, extreme downpours are happening more frequently than in the past. In 80 percent of the cities analyzed, the top 1 percent of rain events have been recorded disproportionately recently.” Just how recently? More than 1⁄3 of the cities Climate Central studied set their rainfall records since 1990.

Too Much, Too Fast

When our gardens get buckets of rainfall dumped on them in a more compressed amount of time, we’re at greater risk for flooding—and greater risk of losing precious topsoil in the process. Rather than slowly penetrating and subsequently filtering through layers of soil to recharge the local groundwater, extreme rainfall becomes fast-moving runoff. 

If your soil is really compacted or, like most of us, you’re surrounded by asphalt roads, concrete driveways and similarly impervious surfaces, all that extra rainwater has a chance to spread out and flow even more quickly across these areas. As a result, the runoff remains above ground, making its way into nearby streams and rivers and taking the topsoil and its nutrients along with it. 

Fortunately, we can prepare for these extreme weather events and preserve the rich topsoil we work so hard to build. By building bioswales and rain gardens into our landscapes, we can channel and slow that runoff. 

bioswales rain gardens
Studiomiracle/Adobe Stock

Basics of Bioswales

You may already be familiar with swales. They’re long, narrow ditches or shallow basins typically positioned around homes and along roads to redirect storm water. These may be planted with grass, filled with stone, or even made from concrete. But what makes a swale a bioswale?

Modeled after Mother Nature, a bioswale incorporates natural elements that work together to filter and direct the runoff. These may include native perennial grasses and flowers as well as certain soil amendments. In part, the natural elements to be included depend on factors such as soil texture and how quickly water drains through a particular area. The land’s degree of slope matters, too. (Land that is nearly flat or, conversely, land that is very steeply sloped is ill-suited for a bioswale.)

The Role of Rain Gardens

You can use bioswales to slow and direct stormwater runoff from your roof, driveway and other impervious surfaces, but where exactly should this runoff go? Bioswales work especially well when paired with rain gardens. Rain gardens are usually located in low-lying areas and include deeply rooted native plant species that, once established, can tolerate “wet feet” and drought conditions.

While native plants do some of the runoff-filtering work, the physical structure and layout of the rain garden are also important parts of the equation. Imagine the rain garden as a kind of basin complete with berms—built-up ridges of land—on all sides except for the side that receives stormwater runoff. 

Water from the gutters on your home and water being directed along any nearby bioswales flows into the rain garden site. The rain garden’s high berms help to hold the runoff in place long enough for it to be taken up by the deeply rooted plants. The stormwater runoff also gradually penetrates and drains through the rain garden’s layers of mulch and amended soil.

bioswales rain gardens
auntspray/Adobe Stock

Taking Stock

Should you choose to install your own bioswale and rain garden, their location, size and shape depend on several factors. Some of these include your current stormwater runoff drainage patterns, the texture of your soil, the rate at which water drains through it, and your growing conditions.

If you aren’t sure about the path your stormwater runoff currently takes, you might have to wait until the next heavy rain to carefully observe this. Take note of any areas in the yard with standing water as well as any spots that feel extra squishy. Snap some photos or draw a map to help you remember where excess water is going and which areas of your land may be eroding.

As for the makeup of your soil, if it is badly compacted or especially poor-draining—think heavy clay—you’ll need to remove and amend more of it than if it is already very light and sandy. Ideally, a combination of well-rotted compost, sand and topsoil is best.

Sometimes called the “soil infiltration rate,” the rate at which water drains through your soil is another critical piece of information to consider. A simple way to estimate this for your soil is to dig a hole that’s about 6 inches across and 8 to 12 inches deep. Fill the hole with water and wait until it has drained before moving on to the next step.

Once the hole is empty again, put a yardstick inside it and refill the hole with water. Make a note of the water level now and then again in an hour’s time. If at least 1⁄2 inch of water has drained, then this might be a suitable spot for your rain garden.

How much sunlight the area gets also matters. After all, this will influence the plants you’re able to choose for any bioswales and your rain garden.

Do the Math

The spot you’re considering for your rain garden should be located at least 10 feet away from the foundation of your home. It should also have a slope of less than 12 percent. You can find an area’s percent of slope by placing two stakes at its highest and lowest points. Run a string from the base of the uphill stake to the downhill stake, making sure that the string is level where it attaches to the downhill stake. Measure the distance from the base of the downhill stake to the top of the now-level string. This is the change in the “rise.” Next, measure the distance between the two stakes. This is the “run.” 

Make sure your rise and run are both expressed in the same units of measure. Divide the rise by the run and multiply the answer by 100. This is your percent of slope.

Knowing the slope of a potential rain garden location will help you determine how deep the final product needs to be. As a rule, rain gardens built on a slope of less than 4 percent should be just 3 to 5 inches deep at their deepest points. For slopes of 5 to 7 percent, you’ll need to dig down 6 or 7 inches. Rain gardens built on slopes between 8 and 12 percent should be about 8 inches deep at their deepest points.

Ultimately, the depth of your rain garden, along with the square footage of impermeable surface you have, will influence your rain garden’s finished size. For example, say you have 800 square feet
of impermeable surface and your rain garden is going to be 6 inches at its deepest point. In this case, the rain garden should take up about 40 square feet. But, if your rain garden is just 3 inches deep, you’d need to double its footprint, making it 80 square feet instead.

Depending on your rain garden’s size and depth, its excavation and shaping could take several days. So could amending heavy soil with sand and compost. Plan to cover the area with a large tarp between work sessions. (Oh, and don’t forget to ask your local utilities to mark any underground lines before you begin your big dig!) 

More Information

Planning for Plants

Plants that perform best in bioswales and rain gardens are clumping, native grasses and sturdy, native perennial flowers with very deep roots. Some common warm-season grasses that work well throughout much of the United States include sedges, big bluestem, and northern sea or river oats. And swamp milkweed, bee balm, columbine, black-eyed Susan, joe-pye weed, queen of the prairie and cardinal flower are just a few of the perennial flower options that can really pull their weight in most rain gardens. 

For best results, ask your county extension office or native plant society for rain garden plant recommendations to fit your specific microclimate. Also, it’s worth noting that some city and county governments do offer stormwater project grants for area residents looking to install their own bioswales and rain gardens. If one of your local agencies offers grants, you might be able to use one to help cover labor or plant costs.

This article originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Hobby Farms magazine.

 

Categories
Podcast

Episode 61: Stephen Mackell

Hobby Farms Presents: Growing Good

Ohio farmer Stephen Mackell talks with podcast host Lisa Munniksma about microgreens, actually sustainable (profitable!) small-scale farming and food access.

Hear about how Stephen found his passion for farming through the magic of starting seeds. Learn about the Mission of Mary Cooperative Farm in Dayton, Ohio, where Stephen started out as a volunteer farm manager and went on to build their community programs for nine years. Stephen explains how the farm came to financially sustain itself with a two-tier CSA being grown on six empty housing lots and eight homemade caterpillar tunnels and greenhouses. He also talks about other food-access programs, including an after-school program that eventually led to food production for the school salad bar and a program to help 100 neighbors start their own gardens.

Get to know Stephen’s 1/2-acre Greentable Gardens in Xenia, Ohio, where he and one part-time employee serve a 90-member microgreens, salad and full-vegetable CSA. Learn how Stephen got his garden beds established from lawn to permanent raised beds, including the installation of drainage tiles. Stephen talks about his farming and business efficiencies—hint: microgreens are a year-round, stable source of income—and his farm’s niche as a USDA Certified Organic home-delivery CSA. Get Stephen’s advice for growing microgreens yourself, too.

Hear about how Stephen, as a college student, was inspired to start a curbside-collection compost subscription company, which he then sold. It’s still in business today!

 

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Large Animals

Learn How You Can Trim A Goat Hoof In Just 8 Steps

trim goat hooves hoof
images by Daniel Johnson

Livestock care requires many daily chores regarding the basics of feeding, watering and shelter. But certain other chores are performed less frequently, and for that reason, may be a little more challenging for the beginner. Hoof care falls into this category. 

If you’re going to raise goats, sooner or later you’ll need to know how to trim a goat hoof. At first you might be tempted to delegate this task to a knowledgeable neighbor or friend. But learning the skill yourself will save time and maybe some money and, most importantly, help you feel more independent and confident with your livestock and homesteading lifestyle. To help you out, let’s look at some of the tools and techniques needed to perform this important task.

Why Trim a Goat’s Hooves?

Left untrimmed, the hoof walls (the sides of the hoof) have a tendency to grow long and then fold over on themselves. Eventually this can become uncomfortable for the goat and can even cause lameness or a deformity of the pasterns if left unchecked. 

Regular trimming prevents this and keeps the hoof at the correct angle. It’s also a chance to clean the hoof thoroughly and perform a visual inspection for any health issues such as abscesses or hoof rot. 

How Often? 

Plan on evaluating your goat’s hooves about every two months. Some goats raised on grassy pastures or that spend time in soft stall bedding may need a trim that often. Other goats may naturally wear down the hoof walls if they have access to rocks or sand outdoors.

In these cases it may be possible to stretch out the trimming intervals to several months, but you probably wouldn’t want to trim less than three times a year. The length of time between trims also depends on the breed, as some grow slower than others.

Needed Materials

  • goat stand
  • foot-rot shears
  • hoof pick
  • blood stop powder (precautionary)
Optional Tools
  • hoof rasp
  • electric hoof grinder

Step 1: Position Your Goat

The job of performing the hoof trim will be a lot easier on your back if you raise your goat up on a milking stand or similar structure (some use chutes). The stand also offers a way to secure your animal so they stay in position.

trim goat hooves hoof

Some goats particularly dislike having their rear legs handled. A restraint along with a tasty snack as a distraction will go a long way towards making the task more enjoyable for both of you. 

Step 2: Clean the Hoof

Start by using the hoof pick to clean out any old bedding or dried manure in and around the toes. A pick with a brush on one end can be helpful here. Some people remove the debris with the tip of closed shears. 

If the goat hooves are particularly in need of a trim, you might need to pry the hoof walls apart with the shears and trim a bit first to get enough room to access with the hoof pick. 

Step 3: Trim the Hoof Walls (Sides)

Next, carefully trim away at the sides of each toe, called the hoof walls. Many goat owners prefer a simple tool known as foot rot shears, which are similar to pruning shears but designed specifically for  to give a goat or sheep hoof a trim. 

trim goat hooves hoof

You’re looking to take small pieces, slowly lowering the hoof walls down until they are more or less flush with the sole of the foot (the softer, fleshier portion). You’ll need to take care never to trim too low, as this is where you can accidentally create bleeding (just like trimming a dog’s toenails). You may also need to shorten the tips of the toes.

Step 4: Trim the Heel If Needed

Now examine the heel—the area where the toes connect at the back of the hoof—and trim that as well until the entire hoof is basically flush with the sole. The aim is to create a basically flat surface across the entire bottom of the hoof. Take small pieces, and take your time.

Step 5: Watch the Coronary Band 

During the trimming process, you’ll want to try to achieve a proper angle on your goat’s hoof relative to the ground. The hoof’s coronary band is a good guide for this. It’s located right at the top of the hoof, where it starts to transition into fur.

Ideally, this band should be parallel to the ground. So as you’re working, try to match your trims to the band.

Step 6: Finish with the Rasp

Once you have the excess trimmed away and the hoof angle is satisfactorily matching the coronary band, you can finish off the job with a few strokes of the hoof rasp.

trim goat hooves hoof

Step 7: Don’t Go Too Far

As you trim, you’ll notice the newly-exposed areas of the hoof walls and sole turning from gray to white to pink. White is OK, but if you start reaching any pink that’s a definite warning sign that you’re about to reach blood flow. Stop right there!

If you do ever nick a bit too far, apply your blood stop powder and perhaps some pressure to halt the bleeding.

Step 8: Trim the Dew Claws

Older goats may need the dew claws trimmed a bit. This could be done either with the shears or a rasp. Take small pieces here as well, as you can accidentally cause bleeding with the dew claws too.

Try a Grinder

Particularly tough hooves or those that have gone a while without seeing a trim might benefit from a grinder. The process is essentially the same except that you’ll carefully grind down the hoof walls and heel until they are flush with the sole.

If a goat has gone a long time between trims, you may need to break the hoof trim job into several shorter sessions.

Goat hoof trimming is a job that will become easier with practice. Once you have a few trims under your belt, you’ll have the confidence to keep your entire goat herd looking—and feeling—great! 

More Information

Moisture Conditions

It’s beneficial to stay on top of goat hoof trimming when conditions are particularly moist, such as in the spring or fall. When hooves are subjected to prolonged exposure to mud and wet soil, certain issues such as hoof rot or hoof scald are more likely to develop due to the moisture providing bacteria with an opportunity to thrive. The good news is that the hooves will be easier to maintain during these periods, as a hoof with a high moisture exposure is naturally softer and easier to trim.

If you need to trim goat hooves during periods of dry weather, you might find that the hooves can be quite hard, brittle and challenging to cut through. This might be a good time to experiment with a grinder, or you could alternately allow your goats access to wet ground for a couple of hours prior to trimming to help soften the hoof.

When It Rains

The best time to trim hooves is immediately after a rain or a heavy dew, because the hoof wall will be much softer and easier to cut.

Natural Hoof Abrasion Materials

As mentioned, goats raised in naturally rocky or sandy environments may not need to be trimmed as frequently. The abrasive qualities of the ground will help keep the hoof walls worn down. But if your goats enjoy play structures, you can simulate the effects of rocky ground by installing simple asphalt shingles to the steps and surfaces of the playground. 

Asphalt shingles provide a nonslip surface for the goats’ safety, and the coarse face of the shingles will help file down hooves. You might be able to extend the time needed between trims this way, but it’s obviously no substitute for regular hoof trimming. 

Watch Videos!

A goat-knowledgeable friend or mentor can offer great advice, but not everyone has one nearby! Luckily, there are plenty of YouTube or Extension office videos online that you can watch over and over again to get an even better handle on the process. You can even keep one handy on your phone in the barn to reference while you’re trimming.

This article originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Hobby Farms magazine.

Categories
Equipment Farm & Garden Homesteading

Recycle & Reuse Scrap Metal Around The Farm Or Homestead

scrap metal recycle farm
images by Frank Hyman

Our neighbor told my wife and me how she stopped her fourth-grader as she was pulling a bottle cap out of their kitchen trash can, saying, “Honey, put that back. It’s trash.” The little girl, schooled on recycling, smiled and said, “Mama, metal’s never trash.” That’s certainly true. I repeat that story every time my wife raises an eyebrow at my sprawling piles of trash … I mean, scrap metal. 

I’m not above picking up scrap fencing and other metal off the curb. And I always take a look into construction site dumpsters. One builder had tossed a heavy, broken nail gun that was easily worth $15 at a scrap metal yard. 

Every bit of metal from my scavenging trips and building projects—stripped screws, sheet metal, broken tools, worn saw blades, excess pipe—gets tossed into black, 10-gallon nursery pots by the back gate. That includes household metal such as jar lids, out-of-date keys and, of course, bottle caps. Because the pot has drainage holes, I don’t have to worry about it filling with rainwater. And because it’s black, it’s not very eye-catching—other than to my wife. 

But once or twice a year, I gather enough metal in pots and piles to justify a quick trip to the scrap metal yard (that happens to be near a favorite BBQ lunch place). There, I sell it all for as little as about $3 one time (the price of steel was down that day) and another time for more than $160 when I had a load of scrap copper and aluminum. 

The little girl is right. Metal isn’t trash anymore. In addition to recycling it at the scrap yard, a lot of metal scraps can be repurposed for use in chicken coops and the garden. Here are a few examples. 

Rack ’em Up

One part of our vegetable garden that always gets compliments is our trellis system for cucumbers. We use colorful metal racks that we get cheap from what we call junk-tique stores. These are racks from retail stores that have closed. They are a 2-dimensional mesh with openings about 2-by-2 inches. We have them in a variety of colors: red, yellow, black and green. 

In the store, the racks stand vertically, and items for sale would be suspended from them. But when a store closes, everything must go, including display racks. And then we get them for a couple bucks apiece. 

In the off season, I store them outside in the weather. In the garden, I hammer a couple of 4-foot lengths of rebar into the ground to support the racks. Then I tie rack and rebar together with short lengths of tie wire or jute. I’ve even installed a couple of these racks permanently to frame a gate in our narrow side yard. 

Hinge Binge

A couple of hinges scavenged from a fence and gate removal for a gardening client of mine found their calling when I needed to install a chicken-sized gate between the hen pen and a chunnel (short for “chicken tunnel,” of course). This new gate and chunnel would allow the hens access to a separate fenced area for foraging bugs and seeds, safe from predators. I framed the chunnel gate with scraps of lumber and snipped out the fence wire to make an opening. 

One side of the hinge was too long for the space, so I placed each hinge on a granite block, held one side with channel locks and hammered the other end of the hinge until it bent over on itself and was the right size for this spot. 

Perhaps I was inspired by a shirt my wife had given me that read: “The Handyman’s Rule: Cut to Fit. Beat into Place.”

Country Hinges

I’ve also used scraps of copper roofing left over from a project—but you might find them on nearby job sites—to make hinges. Some might call these “country” hinges for their reuse of something that would otherwise be scrap. 

scrap metal recycle farm

Because copper is flexible, you can cut a strip about 2-by-4 inches, then predrill four holes near the corners and attach the strip to function as a hinge. I did this on our nest box, and it still works great 10 years later. 

Screen Scrap

Most popular breeds of chickens in the United States were bred in northern climates and are well adapted to winter weather. Here in the South, where I live, the big threat is from heat building up in the coop. So coops need ventilation. Every gable and window in our coop has an opening that is covered by various scraps of metal screen. Air can flow through, but vermin and predators can’t. 

On my metal scrap yard jaunts I always check out the nicer pieces of metal—chains, pipe, fencing—that the scrap dealer sets aside to resell. There I bought a small roll of brass screen—the kind used to make fireplace screens. It looks good, has a fine mesh, can stand up to the weather and was cheap. 

scrap metal recycle farm

That roll lived in my garage for years before I found a use for it on our coop. I cut square sections of the brass screen to cover the openings. I cut it with metal snips and screwed it into place with brass screws from the hardware store. I could use regular steel screws, but with enough moisture, two kinds of metal in contact with each other creates corrosion. 

Because the openings in the mesh were smaller than the heads of the screws, I didn’t need to use washers. But if you’re using a mesh with wider openings, such as hardware cloth—as in the photo—you’ll want to buy some washers to slip over the screws and pin the mesh in place. 

Bad-Guy Barrier

Over many years I have picked up miles of leftover fence wire from the curbside. Most of it gets reused, sold at the scrap yard or I pass it on to a friend for a project. At home, I use a variety of scavenged fence wire to keep critters from digging under the fence into our chicken run. 

To stop critters from tunneling under your fence, some “experts” mistakenly recommend digging a trench 1 to 2 feet deep into which you bury the bottom of your fence. The problem with this “solution” is that even galvanized fencing in the ground will rust down to nothing in 5 to 10 years (depending on moisture levels). 

Galvanized fencing is steel wire coated with a gray layer of the metal zinc. In the open air, this zinc layer will keep steel from rusting. But when a galvanized fence is in close contact with the ground, the organic acids in the soil oxidize the zinc. This leaves steel fencing to rust away, exposing your hens to tunneling predators. 

scrap metal recycle farm

A better defense is to lay an apron of fence wire on the ground at the base of the fence. You only need about a 2-foot tall section of fence. Cut 4- or 5-feet-tall fencing in half with metal snips, bolt cutter or a hand tool (called a side cutter). 

With the 2-foot section of apron fence laid flat on the ground and your foot on it, bend the top 6 or 8 inches of the fence upright.
The upright section goes up against the outside base of the fence. Use tie wire to attach the apron fence to the run fence. 

The remainder of the apron fence laying flat on the ground extends about 12 to 18 inches out from the fence. It should also be pinned to the ground with landscape staples or by bending some of the fence wire to go into the ground. 

Cover it with mulch or let grass grow up through it. Continue this all the way around the base of your chicken run. At the gate lay fencing flat on the ground or put down a flagstone to frustrate diggers.

When a predator comes up to the fence, they’ll try to dig right next to it but will be foiled by your apron fencing. If the predator was really smart, they would back up a couple of feet and dig a tunnel under your apron fence to get to your hens. Instead, they’ll go explore your neighbor’s coop. 

Eventually, the apron fence will rust away. But it’ll be easier to replace than fencing buried under the ground which will also corrode to nothing. And if you’ve scavenged some fencing, it won’t cost you anything. Because metal is never trash!  

This article originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Hobby Farms magazine.