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Animals Chickens 101 Farm & Garden Flock Talk Poultry

The Honest Truth About 4 More Chicken Breeds (Pt. 2)

Poultry keepers learn a major truth during their years as chicken owners: Some chicken breeds are veritable dreams, while others are absolute nightmares. Before buying any of the chicken breeds my husband, Jae, and I raised on our farm, I did major research. I read books, I talked to poultry-science professors, I visited national breed-club web sites … and despite all this, some birds simply refused to fall in line with their breed descriptions. Talk about frustrating. I can still see Jae turning to me, a puzzled expression on his face, asking questions like “Aren’t these supposed to be nice birds?” and “Aren’t these supposed to lay lots of eggs?”  

The following quartet of cluckers comprises part two (here’s part one) in my honest attempt to share my personal experience with these chicken breeds. It’s my hope that these descriptions of my time spent with each of these chicken breeds will help guide your choices when it comes to backyard flock shopping.  

Araucana  

araucana chicken breeds popular
OceanProd/Adobe Stock

To make our farm somewhat profitable, we decided to raise heritage chicken breeds that laid a variety of egg colors. When it came to blue eggs, we decided to go with the “original” blue-egg breed, the Araucana.

Many conflicting stories describe the Araucana’s origin. Suffice it to say it developed from one or more fowl found in or brought to South America that shared the Araucana’s tufted, rumpless features. More conflict existed in the description of the Araucana’s disposition. Some of my sources stated the bird was flighty and timid, while others described the breed as friendly and cheerful. Yet others noted the Araucana was active and aggressive.  

Our Black Araucana flock agreed with all of those definitions. As chicks, they were extremely active, dashing around their brooder and hopping on and off their perches. They were also very easy to frighten. Just reaching in to swap out their waterer or feeder would cause a cacaphony of cheeps as the peeps dashed frantically away to hide from The Hand.

Oddly enough—and this occurred with every generation we raised—it was as if a switch was flipped at about 5 or 6 weeks of age. Now, instead of fleeing from my hand, the juveniles were more likely to hop onto my hand and just sit there contentedly. My sons took to watching TV with an Araucana pullet or cockerel seated on a rag on their laps. As adults, the girls’ attention shifted to the roosters, whom they followed devotedly around the run.

The hens were not afraid of us, however. I got the distinct feeling they tolerated us. The boys, however, still trotted over for belly rubs and mealworm treats, regardless of their age.  

Both the male and female Araucanas were excellent foragers. However, due to their exhorbitant value—we paid $50 each for our initial five chicks and for our four “let’s add a fresh bloodline” additions—we never let them range outside of their run.

The males were quite attentive to their ladies and always kept an active watch for predators. The girls laid an average of two to three beautiful blue eggs per week. Sadly, the fatal Araucana tufted gene did indeed kill about 65 percent of our chicks, in and out of the shell. In addition, most our broody hens would suddenly snap out of their broodiness, abandoning their clutches and forcing me to run to rescue the cooling eggs.

I adored our Araucanas, but I simply couldn’t deal with the heartache trying to breed them caused.  

Cochin  

We originally added Cochins (pictured above) to our poultry farm because they were listed on the Livestock Conservancy’s Priority List of threatened and endangered heritage birds. I drove more than an hour to purchase four chicks from a breeder listed on our state’s grassroots poultry group. She brought me to her brooder room and told me to pick my chicks.

Let’s just say I didn’t leave with just four.  

I’m happy to report that almost everything I read about Cochins is true. They are gentle, friendly and affectionate birds who’d happily spend the day seated on my lap. If I left the kitchen door open, one (or more) of them would invariably wander into the house and contentedly watch me cook or clean.

They got along fabulously with other chicken breeds. In fact, the Cochins would always adopt the last few members of a flock we were discontinuing. Both the males and females made fabulous parents. Our White Cochins (we also raised Blue, Black and Splash varieties) were particularly awesome parents, caring for their own babies as well as the young of other chicken breeds that the broodies had hatched.

Our Cochin ladies averaged between three and four eggs per week. They were the only hens, out of all the breeds we raised, that would lay well into winter without artificial lighting.  

There were also some descriptives that failed to hit the mark with our flock. For instance, in multiple sources I’d read that Cochin hens frequently crush the eggs they set due to their enormous bulk. That was the furthest from the truth. Every single one of our Cochins were carefully methodical in the way they turned and shifted their clutch (something we observed since we numbered the eggs). We never lost a single egg or chick due to the size of the hens.  

Another “nope” was the recommendation to lower the coop’s perch because these big beauties were simply too heavy to get any sort of lift. Not only could our Cochins easily clear the height of their perch, they’d also hop onto our tractor and our lawn mower. They’d hop up the deck stairs and even occasionally roost at the top of their run’s fencing.  

The third not-quite-right “fact” was that Cochins were terrible foragers because of their feathered feet. On the contrary, our Cochins were amongst our best foragers. Every fall, they’d eagerly clean up our vegetable garden, digging at the ground with those supposedly useless feet. These assistant gardeners saved us a lot of work in the autumn. Unfortunately, until we set up a fence yo keep them in the back, they’d also dig up and turn our front yard’s landscaping mulch.  

I don’t really remember why we discontinued our Cochins. I vaguely recall Jae telling me we needed to cut down on the number of flocks we were raising. Should we decide to expand again, Cochins are absolutely the first on the list. Together with Silkies and Orpingtons, they make my Top 3 chicken breeds list.  

Easter Egger 

easter egger chicken breeds popular
NPF Photography/Adobe Stock

Chicken math can sometimes derail the best-laid plans. I am far from immune.

Perhaps one or two weeks after we founded our poultry farm, I headed to our local farm-supply store for more chick starter. Of course it was Chick Days. Of course I had to take a peek at all the babies. Of course I went home with one dozen chipmunk-striped baby Easter Egger chicks.  

These had been labeled as Ameraucana pullets, but even back then I knew that purebred Ameraucanas were hard to come by and would not sell for $1.79 per chick. I knew full well that I was bringing Easter Eggers—hybrid crosses between a brown-egg layer and an Araucana, Ameraucana or other Easter Egger—to a heritage poultry farm. I was read the riot act by Jae when I arrived home.

We had no separate housing for these little girls. I decided they’d join our Orpington flock, which were about the same age. It was a wise move, as the two groups got along fabulously.  

As adults, this pairing also made it easy to see who had laid which egg. Orpington eggs were invariably peachy tan, while our Easter Egger girls laid aqua and green eggs. Despite the Easter Eggers being small standard birds compared to the Orpingtons’ robust girth, the two types of birds formed fast friendships. It always made me smile to see the slimmer Easter Egger girls hanging out with their Orpington pals.  

Naturally, Arnold Orpington also enjoyed the company of our Easter Egger girls. This led to Easter Egger hatching eggs and chicks being our second biggest seller after Silkie eggs and chicks. We increased the size of our flock and eventually built them their own coop, headed by Blaziken, one of the best roosters we have ever had.  

Our Easter Eggers were friendly, got along with everybody, and loved getting attention, cuddles and treats from us. They were very active and curious, investigating every nook of our yard (much to Blaziken’s annoyance).

They were definitely the fastest of all our breeds. They easily outran the other flocks every time I stepped outside with kitchen scraps. The Easter Eggers were also our best layers, averaging five to six eggs per week. Every now and then, one of the girls went broody. I remember my amusement at finding Keynoter setting her secret nest beside our compost heap. The warmth of the compost heap kept her egg stash at proper incubating temperature when she grumpily went into the coop at night.

Eleven of her clutch of 15 hatched out. I’m guessing the elements affected the other four.  

I still regret discontinuing our Easter Egger flock. In the end, our poultry farm focused on purebred birds, not chicken cross breeds. Blaziken and his girls found a new home with a young family about an hour away from us. If you have no hang-ups about heritage vs. hybrid, Easter Eggers are definitely the way to go.  

Welsummer 

welcummer chicken breeds popular
lonnyinco/Adobe Stock

And then there are the Welsummers. Part of the draw of breeding Welsummers was the stunning beauty of the Welsummer rooster, with its full, black tail and red-orange body. Cornelius, the Kellogg’s Corn Flakes rooster, is a Welsummer, so there was some Michigan loyalty in our decision.

The main factor, however, was the gorgeous terra-cotta eggs laid by Welsummer hens. We wanted to offer our customers a rainbow of eggs, and that rich, red-brown egg fit in nicely with our plan. Those beautiful eggs also won me several blue ribbons in local community and county fairs, for which I’m quite grateful to the Welsummer girls.  

The Welsummer hens, however, aren’t the great layers I’d read about. They supposedly produce around 180 eggs per year—that’s an egg almost every other day. I guess the breed has no calendar instinct, because the Welsummers were always the last of our chicken breeds to start laying each year, producing their first eggs in May when everyone else started laying in March or early April.

They were also the first to molt, in September, cutting their laying season to a whopping five months, during which they laid an average of two eggs per week. Twenty weeks times two does not total 180! Fortunately, the hens showed absolutely no interest in brooding. Fortunately, they accepted the juveniles we hatched and raised without any issue. 

One thing was certain: Welsummers loved to roam. I lost count of how many times I had to fetch the flock out of our neighbor’s yard, acres away from us, or catch them as they started down the trail leading into the state woodlands behind us. For all their ranging, though, they were terrible foragers, always voracious upon returning to their run.  

Eventually, the number of hens we needed to keep up with egg demand, coupled with the Welsummers’ standoffish attitude towards us, led me to call it quits. The entire flock was purchased by a very nice farmer several hours north of us.  

Categories
Beginning Farmers Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Homesteading

5 Purposes For Dried Sunflowers In The Autumn Season

Sunflowers are still vibrant and healthy through August and September, into the early days of autumn. As they start to fade, prepare for ways to use the spent flower heads.

Sunflowers are not just beautiful, but they are beneficial, too. Once the beauty of your sunflowers fades, they can be used as future seeds, food and autumn decorations. Here’s how to harvest sunflower seeds, followed by five ways to prepare sunflowers once they have started to die back.

Harvesting the Seeds

If you plan to use the seeds for replanting or preparing for food, you will need to harvest and remove the seeds by cutting them back from the stalk once they have started to dry out. You’ll know it is time when the back of the flowerhead is turning yellow, most petals have dried up and fallen, and the seeds appear loose. If you want to speed the process up, you can cut bunches and hang them to dry.

De-seeding the sunflower is very simple if the flower is dried enough. Most seeds will be loose and ready to easily come away from the stalk. Firmly rub the seed head over a bucket to catch the falling seeds. Small blooms and other debris will also collect in the bucket.

Once you have completed this process with all your sunflowers, collect a colander or strainer to begin separating the debris. 

spent sunflowers sunflower seeds autumn fall
graja/Adobe Stock

Depending on the amount of debris, you will decide if shaking the seeds in the strainer is effective or if you will need to run water over them. If you choose to run water, you will need to make sure they spend adequate time in the drying process so no moisture creates mold and the integrity of the seed is not compromised. 

After separation, line a cardboard box or crate with newspaper or paper towels, and spread the seeds evenly in a single layer. They will need to dry a few hours or even overnight depending on how much moisture they have. 

Use Your Sunflower Seeds

Now that the seeds have been harvested, cleaned and dried, you can use them for the following purposes.

Replanting

Place the seeds you plan to replant next year in an airtight container. Label the container and store them in a cool, dark place. 

Roasting

Many people love to flavor and roast sunflower seeds. The large mammoth varieties are best for eating. Once the seeds are cleaned and dried you will want to: 

  1. Boil the seeds in salted water to add flavoring. If you do not like salt, you can move straight to the final step. The ratio should be 1 cup seeds to 1 qt. water to 2 tbsp. salt.
  2. Bring to a boil and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes.
  3. Drain the water from the seeds.
  4. Place the drained seeds in a single layer on a baking sheet.
  5. Cook in the oven at 400 degrees for 10 to 20 minutes.
Raw Snacks

Sunflowers aren’t at risk for rapid spoilage. If they are kept in a cool, dark place, they can last two to three months without needing refrigeration. Once they are cleaned of debris, they are ready for raw snacking.

Suet Cakes

Bird suets are valuable food for birds and chickens in the winter months. It is a mixture of fatty foods and proteins, and sustains birds and chickens when a lot of food they  forage in warmer months has died. It’s also best for winter months because the cooler temps allow the ingredients to stay solidified and not melt.

spent sunflowers sunflower seeds suetautumn fall
Jill/Adobe Stock

Here’s how to make suet cakes:

  1. Gather ingredients: 16 oz. lard, 16 oz. crunchy peanut butter, 1 cup cornmeal, 1 cup flour, 2 cups sunflower seeds 
  2. Mix all ingredients in a large mixing bowl and incorporate well. 
  3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and transfer the dough
  4. Create a flat, rectangle shape.
  5. Place the baking sheet in a freezer for four hours.
  6. Once the suet cake is frozen thoroughly, cut the rectangle into appropriate sizes for whatever feeder you will use. 
  7. You can freeze the remaining suet cakes for up to six months.
Decorating

Preserving sunflowers creates beautiful autumn decor both for your home and as gifts for others. You can create mementos for special events or just display your garden longer for special and unique pieces of art. Preserved sunflowers look beautiful with fall decorations, including wreaths or vase arrangements. 

To preserve sunflowers, you will need to harvest earlier than you would for collecting seeds. To dry sunflowers for display, select flowers with heads that are mostly open. The back of the flowerhead will still be a vibrant green, and also look for flowers with petals mostly intact.

To speed up the drying process, you will want to remove the pollen heads and petals from the sunflower. Next, bundle a few flowers with rubber bands and hang upside down somewhere in the shade outside and allow them to dry completely. This should take two to four weeks to remove all moisture. 

You can use a clear hairspray before using sunflowers as decor inside. Display dried sunflowers in vases, on wreaths, in shadow boxes or tied to your autumn gifts. 

Categories
Crops & Gardening Equipment

Simplify Planting Heavy Trees With A Wooden Ramp

Potted trees can be purchased in many sizes. Tiny trees might come in a pot as small as 1 gallon in size. I commonly plant fruit trees from 7- and 10-gallon pots. Much larger sizes are also available, and the larger the tree, the closer you are to having a magnificent specimen in your yard or orchard.

But here’s the problem: While large pots support older and larger trees, they’re also heavy and can be difficult to move around. As pots increase in size, the volume of soil they hold follows suit, and soil can be very, very heavy. Planting trees from large pots can be difficult … but it need not be an insurmountable challenge. In fact, it can be surprisingly simple. And you don’t necessarily need much machinery to help.

Dealing with Large Fruit Trees

This spring, I was shopping at my favorite nursery when a couple of impressive apple trees caught my attention. They were every bit of 12 feet tall, and one was loaded with just-forming apples. They were gorgeous specimens at very reasonable prices given their size, and I decided they had to come home with me.

The problem was, the trees were growing in 25-gallon pots. The soil in a 25-gallon pot probably weighs close to 300 pounds, and when combined with the weight of a tree (with lush leaves and apples) … I knew moving and planting those potted trees wouldn’t be easy.

Shipping the trees home was the easy part. I paid for delivery, and the nursery kindly brought the trees to my front yard, where a strong deliveryman used a dolly to roll the heavy trees down a ramp and drop them off. The tricky part would be getting the trees from the yard to my orchard, about 800 feet away.

I thought about using the hydraulics on a tractor—either by crafting a means for a three-point hitch to lift the pots; by lifting the pots in the bucket of a front-end loader; or by wrestling the trees on to a pallet that could be lifted by a fork lift attachment. I also thought about enlisting the help of several strong people to simply lift the pots into a tractor-pulled trailer.

But in the end, none of these approaches were necessary. Instead, I kept things simple with a garden tractor, a small utility trailer, a few blocks of wood, and a long wooden plank.

Wooden Ramp to the Rescue

It couldn’t have gone better. I used the garden tractor to back up the utility trailer to within about 12 feet of the first 25-gallon pot. Then I took a sturdy 12-foot wooden plank and laid it down so one end was in the utility trailer and the other end was right up at the base of the heavy pot, turning the plank into a ramp for the trees. Underneath the plank, I stacked a few blocks of wood to provide support.

Then I called in a couple of people to help me slide the pot up the plank. With very little effort, all 300 pounds of soil and however many pounds of tree glided up into the trailer. After driving the trailer to my orchard, I parked 12 feet from the pre-dug planting hole, set the plank and blocks of wood back up, slid the tree easily down the plank, and gently rolled it into the hole.

There you have it. With minimal equipment and a couple of helpers, I managed to move a potted tree weighing hundreds of pounds without ever lifting the pot. It was fast, it was easy, and it was gentle on the tree.

So what are you waiting for? Even if you don’t have fancy equipment like a tractor with a front-end loader, you can still plant large, beautiful trees. And, as I did, you can even get a head start on enjoying homegrown apples!

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Large Animals

Katahdins Are A Native, Easy-Keeping Sheep Breed

For the independent homesteader, Katahdins have everything! The breed was developed in Maine during the 1950s by sheep farmer and amateur geneticist Michael Piel, who named his new breed after the tallest mountain in his state: Mount Katahdin. The hardy Katahdin combines excellent meat production and a rapid growth rate with vigorous reproduction, a self-shedding hair coat and the overall hardiness expected of an American production. Katahdins are also a naturally parasite-resistant sheep breed and produce abundant meat and milk on pasture. 

In the 10 years since I began raising Katahdins, I have fallen in love with these fluffy, stubborn, sweet-tempered sheep. Their hardiness and pasture-wisdom are just the qualities to recommend them to beginners as well as experienced shepherds. Smart, tough sheep that thrive on whatever happens to be growing—what’s not to like?

An Extraordinary Ovine

Katahdins have some great things to offer. They thrive on forage alone and make outstanding use of even very rough pasture and unimproved grazing land. They’re the best tool we know for reclaiming overgrown hillsides and waste fields or cleaning the understory of a forest. 

They also love weeds. Goldenrod, Queen Anne’s lace and blackberry briars are all favorite forages of the Katahdinthe more fibrous, the better. Even shrubs and bushes are food for this tough breed. So if you have pastures you want to improve naturally, bring on Katahdins.

This preference for wild foods is a great quality. In spring and fall, I graze my Katahdins in the woods, where the sheep find and eat a wide variety of plants, nuts and fruits. I find the more places I let my sheep forage, the better. Maybe it just follows that Katahdins are also ideal for reducing invasive plant species.

Japanese knotweed, for example, an aggressive invasive in the northeastern United States, is a favorite meal for my flock. 

When it’s young and tender, they eat it right down to the ground, letting in sunlight to encourage new and more desirable ground covers. If they graze it later in the year, when it can be as much as 8 feet in height, my determined Katahdins will still strip all the leaves, stunting or killing the unwanted plants. This breed helps with farm work!

Katahdin sheep breed grass
Masha Dougherty

Natural Management

As hair sheep, Katahdins certainly fit shepherds who practice holistic grazing. Their short hair means they ground an electrical charge more easily than their thick-fleeced cousins do. This is a great advantage for sheep farmers. Why? Most folks who manage sheep with electric fencing—a necessity for holistic rotational grazing—must use bulky netting panels to contain their animals. 

I prefer to avoid electric netting for sheep. First, lambs can get entangled, and an animal subjected to repeated shock can die. Secondly, electric netting is a pain to move. It tangles easily. A roll of fence is bulky, heavy and awkward to carry and set up. And panels make the logistics of paddock moves difficult and complicated. 

I’m glad my sheep can be kept in with polytwine: two strands for adult animals, three when the flock includes lambs. There isn’t a need to buy a high-powered charger, either. I often use a small solar energizer of only 0.75 joules. The advantages of simple equipment go beyond making the chores easier. With the flexibility of light-weight reels and twine and a solar charger, I can take my sheep to more places on the farm, utilizing out-of-the-way forages and grooming hard-to-reach areas.

The increased efficiency saves me time and money.

Holistic grazing saves money in more ways than one, especially for breeds such as the Katahdin. Because they’re naturally parasite-
resistant and easy to control, it’s easy to keep these sheep healthy. Frequent moves mean they leave grazed areas before these become infested with worms, something that can be difficult to accomplish with breeds not as well adapted to temporary fence systems. 

No plan for holistic grazing is complete without water and minerals. Fortunately, Katahdins are easy sheep to provide for. 

On pasture, sheep typically drink very little water. A 5-gallon bucket refilled daily may be sufficient for 10 or more sheep. I also keep a copper-free salt block constantly available. (It’s important to avoid mineral blocks that include copper, which can cause toxic buildup in a sheep’s liver.) 

Katahdins’ mixed forage diet provides the bulk of their mineral needs. Some dried kelp offered as an occasional treat takes care of the rest.

Katahdins are hardy animals, and except at times when the weather is extreme or the lambs are very small, the sheep don’t require shelter. Their hair coats are waterproof and provide good insulation. 

Here in northern Appalachia where I live, temperatures may drop below zero on many winter nights. But the cold isn’t a problem for my adult animals. 

During the hottest summer months, I do make sure they have access to shade. Other than that, the infrastructure necessary for Katahdin sheep is minimal.

Breeding & Culling

As with any livestock, it makes a big difference to start with strong breeding stock. I learned this the hard way! My first Katahdins were cull animals from a neighboring farm. That was a big mistake. Although they were strong and healthy, they had mothering problems.

It took three years of uncompromising culling to establish the sound, reliable genetic pool I enjoy now. Don’t be afraid to enact draconian selection practices. The most reliable and effective way to avoid problems is to eliminate problem individuals. 

Katahdins are friendly and tractable, making for ease of management and milking. This breed rewards the regular handling inherent in intensive grass management. Even rams are typically gentle, but don’t let them get too familiar. Any animal may behave aggressively if it sees you as its equal. Never hesitate to replace an aggressive animal. You want to avoid injury and aggressive characteristics reproduced in your flock.

Katahdin lambs mature young, resulting in early availability for breeding. Ewes can be bred at 6 months. They conceive readily, and the rams are typically fertile throughout the year. It follows that you could have as many as three lambings in two years, while the Katahdin’s tough grazing genetics make it a good mother. 

Lambing problems ceased to be an issue as selection improved my flock genetics. Just a hint, though: Be sure to remove male lambs from the breeding flock by 4 months of age to avoid undesirable conceptions.

Although I like ewes to lamb in the barn between December and February (a period of unpredictable weather for my region), the rest of the year my flock lambs in the field. Katahdins seldom need assistance.  

Katahdin sheep breed lamb
britaseifert/Adobe Stock

Natural Health

Katahdins are one the most labor-free flocks you could have. They are less prone to common diseases, and when they are grazed on diverse pasture, they instinctively self-medicate with native plants. This, with Katahdins’ natural parasite-resistance, eliminates the need for toxic dewormers. On the rare occasions when I have seen signs of parasite infestation (a manurey tail or distended belly), the issues have rectified themselves without intervention.

Although much of their resistance is attributable to breed, management is a factor, too. When animals are moved to fresh native pasture on a frequent basis, as in intensive rotational grazing systems, few problems arise. 

I owe my experience with sheep diseases almost exclusively to my conventional neighbors, whose constantly grazed pastures build up soil-borne pathogens. Holistic grazing repays the work involved. I’m reminded of the saying: “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

Paying Their Way

Katahdins’ growth rate and carcass quality make them a hot commodity on the meat and breeding markets. First, losses are drastically reduced by their parasite-resistance. This breed’s fertility results in flock increases of an average of almost 200 percent per year. The fact that they’re hair sheep eliminates the need to pay for shearing, and their ability to survive on forage alone does away with the No. 1 cost in most sheep operations: grain.

For the homesteader, Katahdins’ size makes these sheep great candidates for home processing. Two people can butcher a medium-sized ram in less than two hours. And for folks that live off-grid, the smaller carcass, consumable in a short time, eliminates the need for refrigeration. Plus, Katahdin meat has a rich tenderness and very mild lamb flavor, making it popular even among lamb critics. 

Milk is another reason to raise Katahdins. Ewes can produce up to 2 quarts of rich, nutrient-dense milk per day, perfect for making rich, fragrant cheeses. Milk from forage has the highest levels of phytochemicals, making it especially healthful. And the tractable nature of this breed means they’re naturals for dairying. Of course, if they are used for milk, it needs to be taken into account that the lambs will need to be raised on artificial means.

Financially, you can start a Katahdin flock very economically. Aside from the cost of the initial fence and breeding stock, raising Katahdins won’t break the bank. In fact, they’re going to save you money, because they reduce lawn care time and costs. Grazed year round, Katahdins utilize forage almost as well as cows, with the added benefit that they can graze the same paddocks multiple times in winter, since their impact is light.

Im grateful for that flock of cull Katahdins of 10 years ago. They taught me so much. Today, Katahdins fill such an important role on our farm that I can’t imagine the place without them. From low maintenance to lamb chops, pasture improvement to parasite resistance, this American breed stands out. They are truly a homestead winner. 


More Information

Lamb Formula Recipe

I rarely see bottle lambs today, but when I do, I mix my own lamb formula: two cups of cow’s milk, an egg and a sprinkle of sugar. That’s it!

The sugar adds energy and palatability, while the egg provides extra protein and aids digestion. Before I got my flock’s genetics worked out, I had a couple bottle lambs per year, and this formula always pulled them through.

This article originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Hobby Farms magazine.

Masha Dougherty lives on a small farm in Toronto, Ohio. She enjoys reading philosophy and baking bread, as well as all aspects of farming, especially caring for her flock of Katahdin sheep.

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Large Animals

Control Parasitic Worms In Sheep With FAMACHA

If you’re a seasoned sheep owner (or even if you are new), you’re probably no stranger to the issue of worms. Worm infestations are a common concern among sheep farmers, often leading to health problems for the flock. One particularly troublesome parasite is the barber pole worm, notorious for its ability to attach to the stomach wall, causing bleeding and feeding off the blood. Consequently, long-term and severe infestations with this worm can result in anemia in your sheep. Sometimes you’ll see with barber’s pole worm infection a state that is called “bottle jaw,” which is a fluid swelling beneath the jaw.  

This is where the FAMACHA score comes into play as a valuable tool in managing worms in your sheep and your overall flock health. Developed in South Africa and introduced to the United States by the American Consortium for Small Ruminant Parasite Control (ACSRP), the FAMACHA score involves assessing the mucosal tissue, primarily the lower eyelid, to gauge the level of anemia in your sheep. The scoring system ranges from 1 to 5, with 1 representing the healthiest, pinkest eyelids and 5 indicating severe paleness, signaling anemia. 

So, why is understanding and utilizing the FAMACHA score crucial in managing infestations of worms in your sheep? Let’s delve into the details. 

The Logic Behind FAMACHA Score-Based Treatment 

The ACSRP recommends treating only those sheep falling within the 3 to 5 range on the FAMACHA scale. Surprisingly, this means that you shouldn’t treat the sheep with pink lower eyelids. But why? The answer lies in the potential for drug resistance to worming medications. 

Some worms can develop resistance to certain types of wormers. If you administer wormer medication to all your sheep indiscriminately, you may kill the worms that aren’t resistant while leaving the drug-resistant ones unaffected. Consequently, these drug-resistant worms can continue to reproduce, potentially leading to the creation of “super worms,” a situation you definitely want to avoid. 

However, by selectively treating only the sheep that genuinely require deworming, you allow the coexistence of both resistant and non-resistant worms in your flock. Over time, these worms interbreed, diluting the gene pool with worms that are more susceptible to the worm medicine. The ACSRP refers to this concept as “parasite refugia,” and it substantially increases your chances of effectively managing worm infestations in the future. 

Reducing Medication Usage 

One of the most significant advantages of monitoring your flock’s FAMACHA score is the potential to reduce your reliance on wormer medications.

Surprisingly, it’s estimated that approximately 70 to 80 percent of infections occur in just 20 to 30 percent of the animals. This information can inform your future breeding decisions, allowing you to selectively breed animals with greater resistance to worm infestations. 

Special Considerations for Lambs and Nursing Ewes 

It’s essential to note that recently weaned lambs and nursing ewes are particularly susceptible to worm infestations. Given their vulnerability, it’s advisable to err on the side of caution when in doubt. If you have any reservations about a lamb’s health, it’s best to go ahead and deworm it to prevent potential complications. 

FAMACHA Certification & Resources 

If you are really interested in using the FAMACHA score, the University of Rhode Island offers an online FAMACHA certification class. While the course is free, it does require some effort on your part, such as creating a video demonstrating the proper techniques for testing one or more animals. This certification can be a valuable asset in managing your flock’s health effectively. 

Additionally, the ACSRP’s website is a fantastic resource for sheep owners, covering a wide range of topics related to parasite control and flock health. It’s a valuable resource to bookmark and return to whenever you have questions or concerns about your sheep’s well-being. 

The FAMACHA score is a powerful tool in your arsenal for managing your flock’s health and combating worms in your sheep. My plan is to work on this course over the fall and become certified by November or December. 

By using this scoring system wisely, you can reduce the need for medication, prevent the proliferation of drug-resistant worms, and make informed breeding decisions for a healthier and more resilient flock.  

Your sheep will thank you for it!

 

Categories
Farm & Garden Homesteading Projects

Painting Antiques & Vintage Farmhouse Furniture Pieces

Being rural, especially when your farm is remote, can make access to just about anything challenging. Recipe calls for exotic ingredients? Search the Internet for a more accessible substitution. Need an appliance part ASAP? Order online and wait for it to ship. Need a certain color dresser for your bedroom refresh? You could order online, or you could refinish something that you already own or picked up secondhand.  

Some furniture pieces are easy to identify for a paint refresh, but others—such as antiques and vintage pieces—can be a little daunting and might even come with a degree of heat from your peers. 

Honestly, any furniture you choose to paint is just that: your choice. No one else’s opinion really matters, but I know that mind doesn’t always manage to trump matter, especially when that matter involves family and friends. So, to secure your peace of mind and help quiet the naysayers, you should consider a few factors before wielding a paint brush: age, condition, value and material.

Age

Start by determining the age of the furniture piece you have in mind. According to Deidre Mundorf at Bob Vila, items that are 100 years or older fall into the antique category, items that are more than 300 years old are antiquities or artifacts, and vintage items fall between the ages of 20 to 99 years. The sneakiest label is that of “retro,” which includes newer items made to mimic older ones. 

painting pieces farmhouse

Finding the age can be as simple as looking on the back, underside or in the drawers for the stamped date or a label. You can also search brands and patent numbers online.  

Condition

Next, evaluate the condition of the piece. Is there damage and to what degree? Faded, cracked and even chipped paint is minor. The more damage, the less desirable a piece will be. 

For instance, my dog chewed so far into the leg of my antique dresser that I worried the stability might be compromised. It also had suffered water damage prior to purchase and has countless dings and scratches. All in all, it had a lot of damage. 

Value

The age and condition of your furniture will have a huge impact on its market value. Unless you know a professional in the antiques or vintage market, your best options for determining the current value are to search comparable pieces online or to get an appraisal. 

For my Drexel dresser, I found a company who offers 24- and 48-hour turnarounds on appraisals. I uploaded several pictures of the dresser, including labels, serial numbers, an overall shot and close-ups of the damage. Two days later, I got my response: $50 to $60. 

Material

For the sake of space in this article (and mental capacity in my brain), I’m focusing on painting wood furniture. Know now, there are purists out there who believe no wood should ever be painted. I’m not one of them, but I do believe in taking a measured approach.

I prefer not to paint items that are solid wood unless the condition and/or cost to get it back to stain grade is prohibitive. 

Exotic or expensive hardwoods are considered stain-grade for a reason, but condition may overrule this guideline. An inexpensive, soft wood such as pine that is a recent production (channel your inner IKEA hacks here) is an excellent candidate for paint in my humble opinion. Plus, wood can absorb smells, which can be difficult to eliminate without resorting to a paint or sealant to lock in odors. 

Painting Your Old Furniture

Well, you’ve made it this far, so painting your furniture isn’t out of the question. Don’t run off to the paint store just yet. Consider what type of paint will work best for your project: 

Oil-Based

Wood is a porous surface and can easily absorb oils, which can damage its fibers. Avoid using oil-based paints on wood. These are better served for metal refinishing. However, if you’re painting over another paint and aren’t sure if it’s oil- or water-based, you might consider using oil-based for your project. 

Water-based paints won’t adhere well to oil-based, whereas, oil-based will adhere to both types. Be sure to paint in an open-air space for maximum ventilation. These paints have high volatile organic compounds that aren’t good to breathe.

Water-Based

Water-based paints are often easier to come by, have lower VOCs (and therefore odors), and are easier to work with and clean up. The finish isn’t quite as durable as an oil-based, but the ease of use and access often win out.

There are plenty of water-based paints with an even greater variety of finishes. Here are four of the most common types used for furniture: 

  • latex paint
  • chalky paint
  • milk paint
  • acrylic paint

Let’s Get To Work

Here’s how to paint wood furniture. 

Prep

Take drawers out and doors off, then remove hardware. The last thing you want to do is inadvertently paint the drawers and/or doors shut. Wipe away any sticky or gummy residues with a degreaser. The residue could affect the adhesion of fillers and trying to sand them would only make a bigger mess. 

paint furniture farmhouse

Use wood filler to patch deep gouges and other major damage, applying the filler in layers, sanding in between, and following the product instructions for dry time.

Once you achieve smooth coverage, lightly sand the whole piece. Be careful not to go too deep with the sanding. We just want to rough up the surface. 

“Start with 80- to 100-grit sandpaper, switch to 150-grit or higher sandpaper to remove any remaining finish, and then smooth out the surface,” says Rachel Brougham at Bob Vila.

Paint

Wipe the surface with tack cloth or a damp rag—don’t use paper towels or rags that shed to avoid further debris. Apply a thin layer of primer or paint/primer all in one. Let dry fully.

paint furniture farmhouse

Check paint label for dry times, and add extra for high humidity environments. 

Sand (optional)

This step will help give you the smoothest final finish. Lightly sand the paint, wipe the surface to remove dust and apply another thin coat of paint and let dry fully. Repeat this step until desired coverage is achieved.

painting pieces farmhouse

I did three coats on the frame and drawers and four coats on the top. 

Seal (optional)

If this piece will endure heavy use or be outside, consider adding a protective finish.

“If you are painting a piece of furniture that will not be heavily used, you may be able to skip the sealer,” says Carrie Spalding at Lovely Etc., a popular DIY website. “If you do, be sure to be extra gentle with your furniture for the first month of use. Even though the paint may feel dry to the touch, it can take up to 30 days for it to fully harden. 

Be sure to select the finish based on your needs and the paint you used. (Note: Some topcoats can yellow the finish. Be sure to select a nonyellowing sealant.) Let the topcoat cure for the recommended time before moving.

Finish

Put on hardware and reassemble. Place your furniture, decorate and enjoy!

Painting a piece of furniture, regardless of its age, all comes down to personal preference. If you aren’t looking to grow a piece’s historic value or if you think refinishing/painting it could potentially increase its value (even if it’s just in your eyes), then I say go for it. You’re ultimately the client in this situation, and your happiness is what matters most.


More Information

Resources

There are plenty of opinions out there when it comes to painting furniture pieces. Here are a few that helped me. 

Appraisals

Choosing a Topcoat

Defining and Determining Antique vs. Vintage

Dos and Don’ts of Painting

  • Bob Villa

Painting Antiques and Vintage Pieces

Types of Paint

This article appeared in Hobby Farm Home, a 2024 specialty publication produced by the editors and writers of Hobby Farms magazine. In addition to this piece, Hobby Farm Home includes recipes, crafting projects, preservation tips and more. You can purchase this volume, Hobby Farms back issues as well as special editions such as Healing Herbs and  Goats 101 by following this link.

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Large Animals Poultry

Say Cheese! For Recent Reader Livestock Photos

The editors of Hobby Farms magazine are always on the hunt for great photos of livestock looking good while they say cheese.

In a recent print issue, we ran the best photos submitted by readers. Each one includes the name and city of residence of the person who submitted it.

Upload the very best digital images of your small- farm livestock to HobbyFarms.com/say_cheese or email them directly to hobbyfarms@hobbyfarms.comwith “Say Cheese!” in the subject line. Include your name and address in the body of the email.

We hope to see your photos in an upcoming issue and on our Instagram account!


Barbara Ilijic  | Canton, North Carolina

say cheese livestock farm animals photos


Lydia Sims | St. Cloud, Florida

say cheese livestock farm animals photos


Nicole Maki | Ashland, Wisconsin

livestock farm animals photos


Suzy Sarna | Durham, Maine

say cheese livestock farm animals photos


Shad Arnold | Valley Mills, Texas

say cheese livestock farm animals photos


Jillian Shuttleworth | Roberta Georgia

livestock farm animals photos


Brandie Denard/Suni-Bear Farms | Pinson, Alabama

say cheese livestock farm animals photos


Nate Stoltzfus | Spring Glen, Pennsylvania


Brianna Kannon | Hitchcock, Oklahoma

livestock farm animals photos


Devon Ballard-Hudson | Shepherdsville, Kentucky

say cheese livestock farm animals photos

This “Say Cheese” gallery originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Hobby Farms magazine.

 

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Flock Talk Poultry

The Honest Truth About 5 Popular Chicken Breeds (Pt. 1)

Before I started writing for Hobby Farms and Chickens, before I focused my journalism on agricultural topics, I was known as the Chelsea Chicken Lady—one of the two individuals responsible for getting the city of Chelsea, Michigan, to legalize backyard flocks. But even before that, I was a longtime chicken owner, helping friends, family, neighbors and perfect strangers choose chicken breeds and navigate poultry issues. I was called on for help during Chick Days by local feed and farm-supply stores and folks knew I exhibited my birds at poultry shows around the Midwest. And long before that, I was a kid who helped take care of her grandmother’s rooster and hens. 

It’s safe to say that chickens have been part of my life for most of my existence. It’s also safe to say that, over the years, I’ve gotten to know numerous different breeds of chickens. My close association with poultry has given me insight into these chicken breeds, insight that many microflock owners have counted on to help guide their breed choices with questions like, “I’m thinking about [insert breed of interest here], and I read that they are docile/flighty/aggressive/poor layers/great mothers/etc. What’s the honest truth?” 

The honest truth is that I can only go by my decades of experience. I do know that what I’ve encountered with a few chicken breeds completely contradicts the general information found online. So … get out your salt shaker, because those grains of salt may come in handy as you read my honest truth about the 18 chicken breeds we’ve raised over the years. Here are the first five.  

Ameraucana  

We added White, Blue and Black Ameraucanas (pictured above) to our farm because of their beautiful baby-blue eggs, the same kind laid by their rarer Araucana cousins. We had read that, like Araucanas, Ameraucanas had reproductive issues due to genetics. To our delight and relief, this was never evidenced in our flock.

The Ameraucana girls laid an average of three to four eggs each per week, and every Ameraucana egg we incubated hatched. And we didn’t have to incubate many. The Ameraucana girls surprised us again by being almost as broody as our Orps … not necessarily a good thing when we had customers waiting for blue-egg dozens.

Our Ameraucana hens were fabulous mothers, guiding their chicks well into adulthood. Pullets actually stayed with their mothers as adults, creating little multigenerational girl groups in our flock. We made another unexpected discovery about Ameraucanas, too. They turned out to be our longest-producing layers, with our girls regularly laying at least one egg per week well into their sixth year—and some beyond.

These Ameraucanas also turned out to be our longest-lived chickens. Our Black Ameraucana, Dolly, turned 11 this past June. Our Ameraucana boys were also nothing to sneeze at. After our Orpingtons, our Ameraucana roosters were our best guardians, always watching for predators or anything unusual in their runs or in our yard. Our Blue Ameraucana rooster, Jefferson, was one of my all-time favorite roosters. He wasn’t as cuddly as my Orpington boys—our Ameraucanas basically tolerate our presence—but he protected his flock, fathered many chicks, and never failed to make his hens his priority.  

Old English Game Bantam 

chicken breeds Old English game bantam
pimmimemom/Adobe Stock

We never intended to raise Old English Game Bantams, or any kind of bantam for that matter. Bantams would not produce eggs of a marketable size, and integrating them with a large-fowl flock would be almost impossible. We had already made accommodations—figuratively and literally—for our Silkies. We were set … until I made a run to our farm-supply store and heard the cheeping from the Chick Days stock tanks.

I instantly fell in love with the teeny baby chicks with the chipmunk stripe down their backs. I could fit three of them on the palm of my hand! They were so dainty. I couldn’t resist.

I had absolutely no idea what breed these babies were. They were listed as “Assorted Bantams.” Dedicated research determined that these chicks were Old English Game Bantams. I was horrified to read that this bird was originally bred to game fight, was aggressive, highly active, and would not interact well with other chicken breeds.

Uh oh

I soon discovered that these write-ups were completely wrong. Not only were our Old English Game Bantams friendly with us, they endeared themselves to the other chicks in our brooder. Everybody wanted to be their friends, and the nightly chick-carpet snoozefest had the Old English Game Bantams smack in the center. When it was time to move our juveniles to their coops, the Old English Game Bantams went along, happily settling in with our Easter Eggers.

The star of the trio was Belle, named so because she was a pretty little princess. While all three of our Old English Game Bantams eagerly rushed over to greet us, Belle would wait for me to put out my palm. She’d then hop onto my hand and, from there, to my shoulder.

Belle was my pseudo parrot. She adored perching up there while I completed my outdoor chores. She was the epitome of affectionate.

In fact, Belle was the little chicken that attended all the organizational meetings that led to the city of Chelsea approving backyard-flock ownership. The council members were enchanted by the charming little Belle, who happily let anyone who so desired hold her. Never did we witness any aggression towards us or any humans or any combative tendencies towards the other birds.

The Old English Game Bantams were indeed highly active. They behaved like kids in a candy shop, running all over the yard, investigating everything. We chose to discontinue breeding the Old English Game Bantams to focus on the standard breeds, but I would definitely recommend this chicken to anyone seeking a cute poultry pet.  

Orpington 

chicken breeds Orpington
angiehunt111/Adobe Stock

One of my top three chicken breeds, my husband, Jae, and I started raising Orpingtons because they were on the Livestock Conservancy’s Priority List of endangered poultry species. In addition, Orpingtons were supposed to be docile and affectionate.

Over the years, we have raised Buff, White, Black, Blue, Lavender and Jubilee Orpingtons. With only one exception—Angel, the first Buff Orpington cockerel we hatched—every single one of our Orpingtons has been gentle, friendly and sweet in disposition. All of our roosters (except Angel) have been carefully attentive of their hens, calling them for treats, alerting them to possible predators, and firmly shepherding them as they roam our acreage.

They were also excellent fathers. In fact, two of our boys—Arnold and Claude—set eggs briefly so the broody of the moment could stretch her legs. Our Orpington hens were excellent layers, producing an average of four to five large brown eggs weekly.

I estimate about half of the girls would go broody at the drop of a hat. One of our Black Orpington hens, Fitz, was so enamored with motherhood that she hid 18 of her eggs under a shrub, then led us on a frantic search one night when she wasn’t present for lock-up. We transferred Madame Broody and her enormous clutch to a brooder, and of course all 18 successfully hatched.

Orpingtons are excellent foragers; swift demolishers of stray toads, mice and snakes; and incredibly intelligent. Observation taught them where their humans emerged with those tasty kitchen scraps, and for years we’d find a mob of Orps waiting for us outside our kitchen sliding-glass door. The bolder ones would rap on the door with their beaks to call us.

Orpingtons were one of the chicken breeds that launched our poultry farm and, years later, they are still our main breed.  

Silkie 

chicken breeds silkie
taitai6769/Adobe Stock

It’s hard not to love a Silkie. This living fluffball is so gentle and endearing that you’ll want to own them all.

That’s pretty much what happened to us. We started with a quartet of Buff Silkies. The next thing we knew, we had Blue Silkies, Black Silkies, White Silkies and Splash Silkies. We kept bearded and beardless, and all of them were adorable, though we soon phased out our beardless bunc. (They just weren’t “poofy” enough for us.)

Everything I’d read about this lovable breed’s disposition was true. Silkies are amazingly tolerant. My sons carried them in fair parades, tucked them under an arm to search for Easter eggs with them, sat on the couch—inside!—and read with them on their laps. Silkies are the perfect pet chicken.

They’re also amazing setters and mothers. If Orpingtons go broody at the drop of a hat, Silkies go broody at the blink of an eye, even on golf balls and rocks. Our Silkie hens weren’t great layers—each averaged about two to three eggs per week—but they happily hatched and raised other poultry’s young and continued to mother them even when the chicks were fully adult.

There are some drawbacks to these beautiful bantams, however. They are terrible foragers, even in their own enclosed run, possibly because their vision can be obscured by head fluff. Silkies are also short on brains. I’ve lost count how many times we’ve had to show our Silkies the entrance to their coop, the location of their nestboxes, how to perch, how to drink from their waterer, etc. The term “birdbrain” was probably coined after an encounter with a Silkie.

They also do poorly in cold weather due to their feather structure. Still, Silkies are ideal for exhibition, their striking looks winning them many prizes. They’re also perfect microflock poultry, especially for small urban and suburban yards. Of all the chicken breeds we’ve raised over the years, Silkies—chicks and hatching eggs—have always been our best sellers. Silkies join Orpingtons as one of our original breeds and one of our top three favorites.   

Wyandotte 

chicken breeds Wyandotte
illuminating images/Adobe Stock

Like the Orpington, the Wyandotte was one of the first chicken breeds we raised on our poultry farm, and for the same reasons: They were on the Livestock Conservancy’s Priority List and were described as friendly, docile and great for families with children.

We began with six Silver-Laced Wyandotte chicks, which we raised the exact same way as our half-dozen Orpington babies. The birds received lots of cuddles, TLC and hand-fed mealworm treats to train them to recognize and trust us. While this method—which we still use—worked wonderfully with the Orpingtons, the Wyandottes grew less and less affectionate as they grew up.

Stunning birds, the Wyandottes were a very cohesive flock. The hens always stayed within a few feet of their rooster. The hens produced an average of four large brown eggs per week, but showed absolutely no tendency towards broodiness. In all honesty, they were an excellent backyard breed: reliable layers, excellent foragers and beautiful to behold.

But I just couldn’t get past their aloof attitude, especially when they were described as friendly.

I bought four baby pullets—also Silver Laced—from a different breeder just in case our Wyandottes’ disposition stemmed from inbreeding. Unfortunately, these new girls showed the exact same attitude towards us … and towards our older Wyandottes. Our existing flock completely ignored the younger quartet, even though the pullets joined the original flock outdoors once they were old enough to leave the brooder. There were no pecking-order squabbles or hen fights between the two groups. They simply acted as if the other birds were invisible.

I was mystified and perturbed and, ultimately, decided that Wyandottes weren’t for us. Despite their beauty, their excellent laying and foraging, and their tight-knit devotion to their group, that detached, cold composure simply didn’t click with me. Wyandottes were the first breed we discontinued. 

Stayed tuned for future installments of this honest look at popular chicken breeds!

Categories
Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Food Recipes

Recipe: Easy, Super Tasty Fermented Green Beans  

It seems like every few days I’m harvesting handfuls of beans from my garden. We love to eat them fresh off the vine, but one can only eat so many beans. A great way to preserve beans, besides freezing them, is make some fermented green beans.  

As with most recipes I write, the process is super simple. Feel free to add additional herbs, such as dill, as you desire to transform the flavor. 

Enjoy these fermented green beans as a quick, healthy snack or chop them up and add them to a salad. They make a delicious cucumber pickle substitute and garnish a Bloody Mary perfectly.  

Yield: 1 quart jar 

Ingredients 

Main
  • 1/2 pound green beans (tender ones) 
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed 
  • Optional for spice: 1 jalapeno (or hotter pepper of choice), sliced into quarters 
Brine
  • 1 tbsp. coarse kosher salt, dissolved in 2 cups water 

Instructions 

Wash beans and trim off both ends to fit your canning jar (about 5 1/2 inches long). 

Place the garlic at the bottom of the jar and pack in the beans vertically. Try to fit the beans as snug as possible, without bruising or damaging them. During fermentation they will shrink and begin to float. If adding hot peppers, pack them within the beans. 

Once the jar is packed, pour in the brine until the beans are completely submerged and covered by at least 1/2 inch of brine, but be sure to leave 1 to 2 inches of headspace in the jar (space from the top of the beans to the rim of the jar). Leaving some space will help keep the ferment from bubbling over during fermentation. 

If you have a small fermentation jar weight, add it to the jar to hold down the produce under the brine. Remove any small pieces of food that float up to the top of the brine, as anything above the brine will increase the risk of mold and, ultimately, spoilage.  

Wipe off the rim of the jar with a clean, dampened towel. Add the canning jar lid and tightly screw on the ring. 

Fermentation 

These fermented green beans are a 10 to 14 day ferment. Ferment at room temperature, ideally between 60 to 75 degrees F, and keep out of direct sunlight. 

Check on the ferment daily to make sure that the brine is covering all the produce. If any produce has floated above the brine level, use a clean utensil to push it back below the brine.  

Burp the jar daily—unscrew the lid briefly and tighten it back on to allow any built-up gas to release (and avoid possible jar breakage or the ferment from overflowing). 

After 10 days, taste the beans and see if they taste garlicky, tangy and a bit sour. If they still taste too much like raw beans, allow them to ferment another couple days and taste them again. Once fermentation is complete, transfer the jar into the refrigerator, with the brine and all. 

Fermentation does not stop once the ferment is transferred to the refrigerator. However, it does slow the process way down. The taste and texture will continue to change, therefore this ferment is best enjoyed within 12 months. 

Side Notes 

If you do not have a glass jar weight, you can improvise by using an easily removable small food-grade glass dish that fits inside the jar. Or, if you have a smaller glass canning jar that can fit into the mouth of the jar you are fermenting with, you can use that to keep the produce pushed under the brine. 

If you are unsure if your water is safe for fermentation, you can boil it and allow it to cool to room temperature before stirring in the salt to make your brine. 

You may substitute fine sea salt instead of coarse kosher salt if you prefer. The measurement will remain the same for this recipe. 

It is completely normal for the brine to turn cloudy during fermentation or to see sediment on the beans. This is a sign that fermentation is taking place, just as it should.  

This recipe has been adapted from Stephanie Thurow’s Can It & Ferment It, with permission from Skyhorse Publishing Inc. 

Categories
Podcast

Episode 61: Stephen Mackell


Ohio farmer Stephen Mackell talks with podcast host Lisa Munniksma about microgreens, actually sustainable (profitable!) small-scale farming and food access.

Hear about how Stephen found his passion for farming through the magic of starting seeds. Learn about the Mission of Mary Cooperative Farm in Dayton, Ohio, where Stephen started out as a volunteer farm manager and went on to build their community programs for nine years. Stephen explains how the farm came to financially sustain itself with a two-tier CSA being grown on six empty housing lots and eight homemade caterpillar tunnels and greenhouses. He also talks about other food-access programs, including an after-school program that eventually led to food production for the school salad bar and a program to help 100 neighbors start their own gardens.

Get to know Stephen’s 1/2-acre Greentable Gardens in Xenia, Ohio, where he and one part-time employee serve a 90-member microgreens, salad and full-vegetable CSA. Learn how Stephen got his garden beds established from lawn to permanent raised beds, including the installation of drainage tiles. Stephen talks about his farming and business efficiencies—hint: microgreens are a year-round, stable source of income—and his farm’s niche as a USDA Certified Organic home-delivery CSA. Get Stephen’s advice for growing microgreens yourself, too.

Hear about how Stephen, as a college student, was inspired to start a curbside-collection compost subscription company, which he then sold. It’s still in business today!