Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Health & Nutrition Poultry

Deworming Your Backyard Chickens: The Whys & Hows

From the number and kinds of chickens we keep to the ways we choose to house and manage them, our flocks can be as individual as finger­prints. Still, whether we have just a few backyard hens or a few hundred, we all have at least one thing in common: the need to monitor and occasionally treat our chickens for parasitic worms. 

Unfortunately, a single right answer or one-size-fits-all solution doesn’t necessarily exist when it comes to deworming chickens. What’s more, because poultry deworming methods and schedules vary widely, determining exactly when it’s safe to eat an egg from treated chickens can also be tricky. 

Worms to Watch

Depending on factors such as their age and environment, your chickens probably already have some parasitic worms. 

“An adult chicken that’s having the opportunity to graze on grass is going to pick up some [parasite] eggs,” says Megan Lighty, an avian diagnostic and outreach veterinarian and associate clinical professor at the Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences. “If I have a 1-year-old chicken that’s on pasture and there’s a few 100 or maybe even 1,000 oocysts per gram … in [a test] sample, I’m not that worried about it.”

When parasitic loads do get out of hand, your chickens’ health and egg production can suffer. Very heavy infestations can even cause death.

Among the most common worms your chickens may face? Roundworms, tapeworms, capillary worms and cecal worms, among others. Most—but not all—of these are too tiny to be seen without magnification. But, Lighty says, “There’s a few different types of tapeworms, and you might see those with the naked eye, if you’ve got a bad infestation.”

Pet or Producer?

If your birds need treatment, your options are actually somewhat limited. “I think the big thing for backyard flock owners to know that a lot of them don’t is that …  [the FDA] considers all chickens to be food-producing animals, regardless of how the owner views it,” Lighty says.

“So, that really does limit my options as a veterinarian for what I can recommend. There are some drugs that—even if it’s a backyard rooster that will get a lovely burial and a headstone when it dies—there are drugs that I just cannot [prescribe] because the FDA considers that a food-producing animal.”

In other words? “There are some drugs that could be very helpful in certain circumstances for backyard chickens that are truly pets that we just can’t use,” Lighty says. “The FDA has made it very clear to veterinarians that they’re not interested in playing the game of, you know, ‘This one’s a pet and this one we might eat the eggs from.’

“It’s just a blanket [designation]. They’re all considered food-producing.”

chickens deworming
Panom/Adobe Stock

Fenbendazole

To date, the only FDA-approved antiparasitic for use in chickens is a water-soluble preparation containing a drug called fenbendazole. Sold under the name Safe-Guard AquaSol, it can treat and control adult Ascaridia galli, a type of roundworm, in meat-type chickens and Ascaridia galli and Heterakis gallinarum, a type of cecal worm, in laying hens. 

“The approved dosage regimen is 1.0 milligram/kilogram (0.454 milligram /pound) BW [bodyweight] daily orally in drinking water for five consecutive days,” says Juli Putnam, a spokesperson for the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s Center for Veterinary Medicine.

“In chickens, no (egg or meat) withdrawal period is required when used according to labeling.”

Put another way, provided you prepare and administer the drug according to the instructions on its label, the FDA won’t require you to avoid eating (or selling) the eggs from treated chickens for a specified length of time after deworming. 

Food Safety

Securing FDA-approval for a drug that will be used in food-producing animals doesn’t necessarily come quickly or easily, since human safety comes into play. “To show that the food products are safe, a drug sponsor usually conducts what are called human food safety studies,” Putnam says. 

These studies typically include evaluations of toxicology, residue chemistry and microbial food safety. A study’s data-gathering and measurement methods are also analyzed.

“By looking at detailed information about the drug in laboratory animals, toxicologists at [the FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine] determine the ‘acceptable daily intake’ or ADI,” Putnam says. “The ADI is the largest amount of the drug in a person’s diet that is not harmful even if he or she consumes that amount every day.”

As for evaluation of chemical residues, chemists examine how the drug being evaluated makes its way through the treated animal. That includes how the animal’s system breaks down and eliminates the drug. 

“Based on this information, along with the [acceptable daily intake], the residue chemists set the tolerance for the drug in the edible tissues of treated animals,” Putnam says. “The tolerance is the highest level of drug residues that are legally allowed to be in or on food products made from treated animals.”

Chemists then use the established tolerance values to determine the withdrawal period for the drug being evaluated. “The withdrawal period allows for drug residues in the edible tissues of the treated animal to get to levels that are at or below the tolerance,” Putnam says. “If the withdrawal period is followed, the amount of residues in the food products made from the treated animal will be below the tolerance and are safe to enter the food supply.” 

When evaluating drugs for approval, the FDA Center for Veterinary Medicine’s microbiologists also consider the likelihood that, with continual exposure to the same drug, parasites and pathogens could become resistant to it. (If that were to happen, the drug might become a less effective remedy for your flock.) 

Furthermore, “The microbiologists look at the impact of that resistance on public health, and if the impact is potentially negative, they determine if the risk is acceptable,” Putnam says.

chickens deworming
jurra8/Adobe Stock

Extra-Label Uses

Fenbendazole may be the only antiparasitic drug currently approved for deworming meat- and egg-type chickens. However, it isn’t the only drug that can eliminate various parasitic worms from chickens. Drugs such as praziquantel, oxfendazole and levamisole are a few effective antiparasitics, but they haven’t gone through human food safety evaluations relative to their use in meat- and egg-type chickens. 

“Because praziquantel, oxfendazole and levamisole aren’t approved for use in poultry, the FDA doesn’t have the appropriate residue data to determine whether eggs treated with these drugs would be ‘safe’ to eat,” Putnam says. “Any treatment of chickens with these drugs would be considered extra-label use.”

(Also known as “off-label” use, extra-label use refers to a deviation from the FDA-approved use spelled out in the drug’s labeling documentation.) 

“Since chickens are food-producing animals, extra-label use of drugs can only be done under a veterinary-client-patient relationship with a prescription from a veterinarian,” Lighty says. “It would have to be handled on a case-by-case basis with a veterinarian who has a relationship with the client and the patient, and any [egg] withdrawal times have to be determined on a case-by-case basis.”

So, what if you were to engage in extra-label use of a prescription drug and your chickens’ eggs included residues from that drug? “Any amount of residues from extra-label use would be illegal,” Putnam says.

Over-the-Counter Options

Because the water-soluble preparation of fenbendazole is intended for use on commercial chickens, it can be an expensive deworming  choice for hobbyists. “The smallest bottle you can buy is a liter, and it’s a couple hundred dollars,” Lighty says. “Your average backyard chicken flock is going to need a few milliliters of it.”

To save money, some poultry-keepers purchase fenbendazole-containing products, which are actually intended for use in cattle or sheep instead, but they aren’t necessarily getting what they pay for. “[Those products] are cheaper, but they are formulated differently,” Lighty says. “They are intended to be bolused—basically force-fed to the cow at the correct dosage—whereas Safe-Guard AquaSol is actually designed to be mixed in with the drinking water, which makes administration easy.”

“If you try to take one of the products that’s formulated for cattle or other livestock and put it in the drinking water, it falls out of solution,” Lighty says. That means there’s no guarantee that your flock will be able to take up the medication that it needs. There’s also no good way to monitor the dose your chickens might get.

“Technically, if somebody wanted to use the cattle formula, you’re using an over-the-counter product extra-label,” Lighty says. “You should have a prescription from a veterinarian, but there’s nothing that stops you from walking into the farm-supply store and buying that.”

That could be true of other antiparasitic drugs not labeled for use in chickens. That said, however, in the absence of food safety evaluations and without veterinary assistance, you could be jeopardizing your hens’ health—not to mention your own.

The Best Medicine

Aside from which deworming medication to use, deciding when to use one on chickens can also be confounding. “I know there are some recommendations out there that say, ‘You should deworm a backyard flock … every so many months,’” Lighty says. “I personally don’t think that’s necessary for most flocks.

“There are some backyard flocks that can get away with never deworming. It really just depends on the number of birds you have and in how large or small of a space are they, and do you have multiple species and multiple ages on the farm that might affect the [parasitic] burden?”

Rather than automatically medicating your chickens as a preventative measure, Lighty recommends having fecal floatation testing done by a local veterinarian or via your state  diagnostic lab or similar agency. “It’s the same procedure that people would do with their dog or cat when they go to the vet … to see what the [parasite] burden is and then decide, ‘Do I need to treat?’” she says.

With those test results in hand, you’ll have a better idea about your chickens’ parasitic loads, the types of parasites involved, and whether—and how—you should medicate your flock. 

If you want to help mitigate the need for antiparasitic medications altogether, you can do a couple of things. You can disrupt the life cycles of some common parasitic worms by keeping all chicken runs and coops as clean and dry as you can and, if possible, by periodically rotating your chickens’ grazing locations. 


More Information

Other Remedies

Until recently, poultry-keepers also had over-the-counter access to the antiparasitic drug piperazine, marketed as Wazine. But the product’s manufacturer voluntarily withdrew its application for FDA approval in 2020, and it’s no longer on store shelves.

Also worth noting, a host of other over-the-counter deworming remedies for chickens are available containing everything from garlic extracts and herbal compounds to diatomaceous earth. The good news is that these more natural preparations aren’t likely to contribute potentially harmful residues to your chickens’ eggs or meat. On the other hand, their respective degrees of effectiveness may vary widely.

This article originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Large Animals Poultry

How To Prevent & Treat Pinkeye In Your Cattle

Last month we discussed common flies that put the “pest” in “pester” for cattle in the heat of the summer. This month, let’s explore a secondary summer cattle issue that comes with flies: infectious bovine keratoconjunctivitis, commonly known as pinkeye.

Flies to Blame

Most people understand flies transmit disease, and pinkeye in cattle is a great example. Feeding on tears, face flies easily transmit bacteria to the eye.

In the specific case of pinkeye, bacteria of the genus Moraxella are responsible. These gram-negative, rod-shaped bacteria love to grow in the tissues of the eye. Here they infect mainly the eyelids and the cornea, which explains the clinical signs you see with these infections.

Cattle with pinkeye typically first show squinting and tearing, as the animal becomes sensitive to sunlight. As the case progresses, the cornea, or outside layer of the eyeball, will become cloudy. Sometimes the cornea will ulcerate, and a divot will show on the eyeball.

In severe cases, the eye can either rupture or become so scarred that the animal loses vision. In other cases, a permanent scar will result. This appears as a white spot on the eyeball.


Read more: Watch out for these conditions when you head out to check on cattle.


Treatment for Pinkeye

Some cattle breeds are more susceptible to pinkeye than others. These are the typical “white-faced” breeds such as Herefords and Hereford-crosses, Charolais and Holsteins.

Pinkeye most frequently affects cow/calf herds. A farmer may notice one infected animal and then after a few days, many more within the herd will also succumb, such that it quickly becomes a herd-wide issue. For this reason, it’s important to initiate treatment as soon as you notice a single animal with this condition. That way, you’ll help curb the contagion before it spreads to your entire herd.

Early treatment is also necessary from a welfare perspective. Understandably, this ocular infection is extremely painful. Early and aggressive treatment can help mitigate suffering and prevent vision loss in your animals.

Because this is a bacterial infection, antibiotics are the most effective treatment. Because these medications are prescription-only, work with your veterinarian to settle on a treatment regimen. This will likely include injectable antibiotics in addition to other management options such as an eye patch to help protect the eye as it heals.

Other options may include housing the affected animals inside, out of the sun, during their convalescence.

Another tool to consider incorporating in your pinkeye control kit is vaccination. There are a handful of USDA-approved pinkeye vaccines available on the market, but it is important to understand their utility. Differing genetic strains of Moraxella exist, and what strain your herd has may influence the efficacy of the vaccine. Talk to your veterinarian about whether incorporating a pinkeye vaccine into your program is appropriate for your herd.

Obviously, good fly control goes a long way to also helping control the level of pinkeye outbreak on your farm. Offering cattle plentiful shade can also help, as can reducing the amount of tall grass and weeds in the pastures, as mechanical injury to the eye through seedheads can also contribute to this bacterial infection.

Categories
Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Food

Recipe: Simple, Simply Fabulous Fermented Blueberries

Quick! Before fresh blueberries are no longer available, get a small batch of fermented blueberries going.  

Fermented fruits and vegetables are some of the easiest preserves to make. Fermented fruits and veggies often only require the produce and salt or the produce and a saltwater brine (salt dissolved in water).  

Unlike vegetable ferments, because of the high sugar content, fruits ferment more quickly than vegetables. This berry ferment can be used many of the ways you’d use fresh or cooked berries, but we prefer to use it as a condiment that we spoon over spicy, grilled, jerked chicken. 

This recipe can be enjoyed any of the ways you’d enjoy blueberries—in yogurt, oatmeal, added to salads and so on. 

Yield: 1 pint 

Ingredients

  • 2 cups fresh blueberries 
  • 1 tsp kosher salt 

Instructions 

Wash and strain blueberries. Discard any bruised or flawed berries.

Add blueberries to a clean pint jar and add salt. Wipe the rim of the jar with a clean towel and add the canning lid, then tightly screw on the ring. Shake the jar to mix the salt within the berries.

It is ideal to use a fermentation jar weight to push the berries down in the jar (without crushing them) so that, once the natural brine is created, it will keep the berries submerged.

Keep at room temperature and out of direct sunlight. 

Once a day, unscrew the canning ring to “burp” the ferment so that the built-up gases created during fermentation can release. Push down the jar weight as needed so the berries are once again submerged. 

Ferment for three days and taste test. If the fermented blueberries have reached your desired sour-tangy flavor, transfer the jar to the refrigerator. If they still taste too much like fresh berries, allow them to ferment another day and taste test again until they reach your liking.  

For best texture and flavor, enjoy this fruity ferment within two weeks.  

Categories
Farm & Garden Permaculture

Transition Plan For Establishing A New Food Forest

When you want to grow a food forest, you have to remember that the correct steps will bring success. Going out and planting trees and berries like you would an orchard or an ornamental landscape are not the right methods. With a food forest (or any edible ecosystem, such as a berry meadow or edible prairie), you need to replace all the current vegetation with chosen plants to fill all of the ecological layers of a woodland. 

In fact, the woodland is the best term to use because we often want more light in our food forests than a true forest provides. So here are my steps to creating an edible woodland. 

 1. Remove all the current vegetation.  

First, you need to clear the land of existing vegetation. There are three common practices for this:

  • Apply herbicide
  • Plow disc and cultivate
  • Install weed barrier 

I like the last two. If you are preparing a large piece of land consisting of many acres, then use the typical earthwork strategy. The key is to cultivate the plot continuously for several months during the hottest part of the year, and this only works well if a proper plowing has upturned the roots. 

If you use black tarps (commonly used for covering hay), then lay them on the ground and weigh them down with heavy sand bags. Heavy duty weed barrier works too (though plastic is best). But weed barrier is more useful later. 

2. Turn the area into Permabeds. 

Once the vegetation is gone, build Permabeds across the entire plot. These raised earthen beds will warm the soil and improve drainage in spring.

They can also reduce routine compaction from humans and sustain better production zones for soil life and plant roots. 


Read more: Build Permabeds with a 2-wheel tractor and power ridger.


3. Use Permabeds to organize a pattern of plants. 

Now you can choose a pattern of plant to create your edible woodland. Some beds can be focused on fruit trees and shrub-type berry bushes (like currants) with an understory of herbs like chives. Other beds need to contain low-growing ground cover to create access, like strawberries.

Asparagus is good too because you can mow fronds after harvest. Thyme and violets are other great choices for ground covers, while some beds can grow just raspberries, which spread. 

Make a pattern of beds that allows easy access and alternates between the larger fruit trees and the lower ground covers and berries. Here’s a good example pattern: 

  1. Bed 1: Rhubarb and large-leaved companions to prevent encroachment of grass from the edge 
  1. Bed 2: Ground covers, like violets, thyme or strawberry 
  1. Bed 3: Fruit trees, currants and herbs 
  1. Bed 4: Asparagus (easy-access alley crop) 
  1. Bed 5: Raspberries 
  1. Bed 6: Ground covers, like violets, thyme or strawberry 
  1. Bed 7: Fruit trees, currants and herbs 
  1. Bed 8: Asparagus (easy access alley crop) 
  1. Bed 9: Ground covers, like violets, thyme or strawberry 
  1. Bed 10: Raspberries 
  1. Bed 11: Ground covers, like violets, thyme or strawberry 
  • Bed 12: Rhubarb and large-leaved companions to prevent encroachment of grass from the edge 

Zipperbeds edible ecosystem food forest


Read more: You can use Permabeds to better manage community gardens.


4. Use the Zipperbed technique for establishment  

The best method to establish the beds easily is the Zipperbed technique: using two pieces of weed barrier on a Permabed, bringing the edges meet in the center of the bed. 

You can plant the center row of the bed, but the rest of bed top, bed shoulder and paths remain covered. This allows the trees and bushes to establish while keeping everything free of weeds. 

Later you can “unzip” the weed barrier so the plant can spread into the new weed-free soil via suckers, seeding, runners or other method. You can also add more understory plants initially (if there is less aggressive weeds, like grass) or add them later (if aggressive weeds are still present for the planting). 

So that’s it! Four very useful steps to planting an edible woodland! 

Grow On! 

Zach

Categories
Farm & Garden Video

Video: Building A New Farm Garden Shed (Pt. 5)

It’s time for me to move onto the next step in my garden shed build, and when I say “me,” that’s what I mean. This build is a one-man job for me, which certainly poses some challenges. But I’m taking the time to think through steps of this build so that I can work smarter rather than harder.

Today’s task, then, is to put the siding onto my garden shed frame. And to make this next step easier for me, I’m going to start by putting a long screw into the rim joist, just below the line of the plywood flooring, followed by a second screw level with the first and so on down the line.

Why? Well, I can rest my piece of siding on the screws as I attach them. It’s a simple solution that just makes the job easier.

Siding Material

For my sheeting material, I chose a product called LP SmartSide, an engineered product that’s weather hardy, pre-primed and takes paint well. Ten of these 4×8 sheets should be enough to wrap my garden shed.

My roof is sloped, but rather than cutting the angle before hanging, I’m just going to put the sheets up whole and cut the angle with a circular saw later.


Read more: Need to buy a new circular saw? Consider these extra features.


Hanging the Sheeting

Check out the video above to see how easily the siding goes up with screws in place to hold the sheets up. It’s an easy step, but if you’ve ever hung sheeting of any kind—whether by yourself or with a helper or two—you’ll no doubt recognize the benefit a handful of screws can bring to this step in the project.

In the video you’ll see that getting this siding up on the frame really makes the structure start to look like a building. This little garden shed is coming along! In my next video, we’ll put up some rafters.

Categories
Beginning Farmers Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Homesteading

Head-Clipping Weevils Devastate Coneflowers, Sunflowers, Other Aster Family Members

I rely on native perennials like purple coneflower and black-eyed Susans quite heavily in my landscape because they’re so drought-tolerant and generally very forgiving. They spread out nicely over time, support lots of different bees and butterflies, and attract sundry birds with their seed heads in the late summer and fall.

Once I mix in perennial common milkweed along with annual zinnias and assorted sunflowers, I’m left with a solid, worry-free pollinator garden. At least that’s how things used to be.

Recently, I noticed several of my new purple coneflower heads were drooping. At first glance, I thought the heat and dry conditions that so many of us have been suffering through lately were bad enough to affect even my drought-tolerant coneflowers. Then I looked more closely. I could barely believe my eyes.

While several other coneflower heads on the same plant looked as perky as ever, their droopy counterparts seemed to have been cut nearly all the way through and were now hanging by a thread. Worse still, when I stood back to take in the whole scene, I saw that several of my echinacea plants had been reduced to mere stems.

Had someone helped themselves to a cut-flower bouquet? Nope.

Looking down, I saw the cut flower heads shriveled up (or in the process of shriveling) lying on the ground below. Then I noticed that some of my sunflowers—finally beginning to bloom, no less!—similarly had been snipped.

Weevil Woes

Turns out a very small insect created my big mess. Known as the head-clipping weevil, the head clipper weevil or, sometimes, the sunflower head-clipping weevil, the insect is officially classified as Haplorhynchites aeneus. And there’s still a lot we don’t know about it.

According to the National Sunflower Association, “Work on this insect has been very limited due to its lack of economic injury.”

But here’s what we do know. These tiny black creatures have long, beaklike mouthparts with which they can slice through hollow-stemmed plants like my purple coneflowers and sunflowers. (Head-clipping weevils are also drawn to important prairie plants such as prairie dock, compass plant and prairie asters, among others. As such, you’re most apt to find head-clipping weevils in parts of the Midwest and Great Plains. However, their range may be shifting.)

So, what’s behind all of the flower head-clipping destruction? Think of it as a precursor to “date night.” After the female and male head-clipping weevils mate, the female deposits her fertilized eggs in the damaged flower head. Eventually, the eggs hatch, the weevil larvae eat the old flower head from which they emerged, and then they burrow deep into the soil below. There, they’ll overwinter until the next growing season when new blooms have come on.

head-clipping weevil

Facilitating this lifecycle seems awfully costly. Certainly, there is the lost personal enjoyment from so many missing blooms.

But, to my mind, it’s more than that. There’s the resulting lost pollen and nectar that our foraging pollinators so desperately need. And then there are all of the birds who have come to rely on the spent seed heads that I’ll leave until well into late spring. If enough weevils survive year after year, my wildlife garden won’t be able to support nearly as many animals and beneficial insects as it once did.

Protecting Plants

Fortunately, we all have some recourse when it comes to controlling these unusual insects. If you have head-clipping weevils, first take a close look at any affected plants to try to catch the culprits at work. Slicing through tough stems takes time and effort for these insects, so you just might get lucky.

In particular, examine the first inch or two below your flower heads. You might notice the start of a dark, horizontal line or a series of puncture marks girdling the stem. Then, you might see the insect itself. If so, hand-pick and drop it in a container of soapy water. (Just keep in mind that they can fly, so you’d better be swift as you grab them!)

You’ll also want to pick up any dropped flower heads you see, since these will eventually play host to the next generation of head clippers. Rather than compost these flower heads, wrap them up and throw them away. (Alternatively, you could solarize the flower heads and then place them well away from any potential host plants.)

Finally, use clean, sharp garden shears to remove most of the stem from any previously clipped flower heads to facilitate plant bushing and stimulate the production of new blooms.

Categories
Animals Chicken Coops & Housing Chickens 101 Farm & Garden Flock Talk Poultry

Domestic Dogs, Cats Can Be Dangerous Chicken Predators

Domestic dogs account for the majority of backyard chicken losses. They’re often the most overlooked predator because of their status as pets. But any dog, no matter its size, may pose a threat to chickens.

Please note that this doesn’t mean all dogs do pose a threat. In fact, many individual dogs and various breeds make fabulous livestock guardians. 

Other than these few trustworthy canines, exercise precaution around new or unfamiliar dogs, whether they have a great reputation or not. Domestic dogs with a high prey drive will kill for sport. Feral dogs, on the other hand, are more likely to consume their prey. 

Many dogs that attack chickens do so out of play, rather than with the intention to kill. There are also some dogs that will chase chickens relentlessly, forcing them into dangerous situations, causing injury, heart attack and/or death without meaning to.  

Canine Calling Card

Domesticated dogs will often strike during the day. Dogs usually continue their killing spree until all of the birds in a flock are dead. However, you may find some that have survived a dog attack.

These birds will likely be fatally wounded and should be humanely dispatched as quickly as possible. Since many dogs that attack chickens kill for sport, the telltale signs of a canine presence can be pretty clear:

  • most, if not all, of the chickens dead or fatally injured
  • bodies scattered around the enclosure haphazardly
  • chickens with broken necks
  • a very big mess, with blood and feathers everywhere. Surviving chickens may have large puncture wounds, broken legs or wings or skin pulled off.
  • chickens mauled but not eaten
  • torn fencing where the dog has gained access
  • holes dug under fencing where the dog has gained access
  • whole eggs missing or empty shells in and around the nests

If a dog attacks your flock, it’s important to remember a few things. First, it isn’t the dog’s fault. The dog was simply acting on instinct.

As the flock’s keeper, it’s your responsibility to keep your birds safe. It’s the dog owner’s responsibility to monitor his or her pets and keep them on leash or in their own yard or home. If the attack occurs by another person’s dog, rather than your own, report the incident to your municipality’s animal control department. While rules vary from city to city, the dog’s owner is likely responsible for reimbursing the cost of your lost birds, damaged fencing and other financial losses you may have incurred. 

Finally, if any of your chickens should survive a dog attack with little apparent physical injury, remember that they’ll still be suffering from the severe stress and trauma of the event. They’ll likely cease laying for a while, from a few days to several weeks.

Watch them closely for other signs of distress and minimize stressors in and around the coop for several weeks following the attack.

Your Flock’s Defenses

You can protect against dog attacks in much the same way you would against coyote attacks: Erect tall, secure fencing, bury fencing or mesh along perimeters, or use electric netting for pastured birds.

Exercise a few extra precautions when protecting your birds against man’s best friend. If you own one, first determine if your own dog is trustworthy around poultry. Stay on top of his training and be consistent. If need be, take measures to keep your pup and your poultry separate.

Next, speak with neighbors about their dogs and any stray dogs you encounter in your neighborhood. Share your concerns with neighbors in order to reach an agreement and report stray animals to your municipality’s animal control division.


Read more: Dogs around your chickens? Here’s what you can do.


Killer Cats

Domestic and feral cats appear to be smaller than most standard-sized chickens, but don’t be fooled. Cats may consume young chicks in their entirety or attack larger birds that are sick, injured, isolated or unaware. Of all the predators on this list, cats pose the least threat to a flock of adult chickens.

But this doesn’t mean you should let your guard down. 

Once in a great while, a very hungry feral cat, a large house cat or a particularly bold feline will take on a grown chicken. If the chicken is a bantam or rather petite, the cat has a better chance of causing some real damage.

However, the true danger that cats pose is really toward small chicks. House cats, in particular, find squeaking, chirping, flying chicks to be alluring “play things,” and they won’t waste much time before inflicting potentially fatal wounds.

domestic dogs cats cat chickens
kozorog/Adobe Stock
Cat Calling Card

Domestic and feral cats hunt for both food and sport. The remains from a cat attack may indicate either or both scenarios. Consider a cat to be the culprit if you find the following at the scene:

  • Dead chicks in a brooder (indoors).
  • Dead or fatally wounded chicks around the house (taken from the brooder and played with).
  • A large mess, with lots of feathers and bird parts strewn about.
  • Muscle and meat of the birds consumed; feathers, wings, head and bones remain.
  • Attack occurs either day or night.
Your Flock’s Defenses

Since the vast majority of cat attacks occur in household brooders, the remedy is simple: Secure vulnerable chicks away from house cats. Always. A brooder with a mesh top and solid sides is all well and good, but it may not keep a determined feline from getting in.

Cats especially like to paw at their prey and will easily slip a leg through chicken wire to investigate chicks.

Remember also that cats are nimble and are excellent climbers and jumpers. And, as any cat person knows, they like to pounce. 

Ultimately, the best line of defense is a closed door. Keep your chicks in a separate room or part of the house away from the cats entirely. If you are keeping a brooder in a barn, shed or other structure where a mouser lives, consider building a partition or moving the chicks to a more secure area. 

This article originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Animals Chicken Coops & Housing Farm & Garden Poultry

The Reclaimed Chick Inn Is One Cool Coop!

Greetings from The Reclaimed Chick Inn, our handmade chicken coop!

I purchased this coop in May of 2021 from a minimal security prison. The prisoners built it out of old shipping containers. We hauled it home in a flatbed trailer.

Along the way, we stopped at a roadside thrift store and found three safari-print chicken wall pictures that I hung inside the coop. I later purchased a couple of zebra and leopard print shirts at Goodwill, cut them up, and made them into curtains for the nesting boxes. 


Read more: This cool cool in Portland, Oregon, reuses materials and yard waste to teach students about sustainability!


Gone with the Wind

In July of 2022, a terrible windstorm came through and rolled The Chick Inn completely over, demolishing it and devastating myself and the chickens. No lives, however, were lost in the wreckage!

My father-in-law spent more than 10 days in 100-degree weather piecing the coop back together and adding more/heavier reclaimed wood to it. It’s even better than before, and the chickens were happy to be back home! 

Our reclaimed coop currently houses 15 hens and nine guineas. On the other side is a 4-by-8-foot room that holds the feed and can also fit an oval-shaped tank for a brooder. My coop has a story to tell, and the eggs are tastier from The Chick Inn.  

  Rachael DeLand, Wray, Colorado

This article originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Chickens magazine as a “Cool Coop” feature. Have a cool coop you’d like to share? Email us a short write-up (~250 to 500 words) about your chicken coop along with a few images to chickens@chickensmagazine.com with the subject line One Cool Coop, and include your name and mailing address. Check out Chickens magazine for current prizes and contest rules.

Categories
Equipment Farm & Garden

Big Farm Project? Test Your Equipment Beforehand

Whenever a major seasonal farm project rolls around, it’s wise to test any necessary equipment before work gets underway, just in case there are any unforeseen issues that need fixing.

Baling hay is a perfect example project. Baling hay is a seasonal farm activity requiring lots of specialized equipment that goes unused many months out of the year. When the fields are tall and it’s time to start cutting, you want to be confident your equipment is in tip-top shape. Giving everything a test run well before the first hay needs to be cut will provide you time to address any problems that pop up.

With hay season approaching on my northern Wisconsin farm, I needed to bale up some loose hay on the floor of my hay barn to clear a tidy space for fresh hay bales. Baling up loose hay provided a perfect opportunity to fire up the Massey Ferguson 135 tractor and the New Holland hay baler and make sure they were in working order.

Troubleshooting Farm Equipment in Time

It’s a good thing I tested them out, because both had issues. Bumblebees had taken up residence inside the tongue of the hay baler and had to be carefully removed.

Then it turned out the baler’s telescoping PTO shaft had frozen in the closed position and was too short to attach to the tractor. It took close to 15 minutes to get it moving freely again. As we all know, losing 15 minutes on a busy baling day can be problematic (especially if you’re trying to beat evening rain), so I was glad to get that straightened out during a less time-sensitive situation.

But the troubles weren’t over. The Massey Ferguson 135 started without issue and was running smoothly when I hooked up the baler. But when I tried to increase the throttle to baling speed, the throttle lever wouldn’t hold in the needed position. Instead, it sprang repeatedly back to a middle position too slow for baling hay.

I could lower the throttle just fine—it would hold in a slower position. And if I raised the throttle and held the lever in place myself, the engine would respond. But something was clearly preventing the throttle lever from staying at high speed.


Read more: Check out these 5 ways to improve the fuel economy of your farm machines.


Finding Fix

An examination of the entire throttle mechanism revealed the culprit: a broken spring. Fortunately, the Massey’s manual included an exploded diagram of the throttle mechanism with every part labeled and identified. It wasn’t hard to find the broken spring, look up the part number, and order a replacement.

This story also illustrates the importance of having backup farm equipment when possible. The Massey wasn’t in any position to bale the loose hay that day, but my John Deere Model 40—a smaller tractor that usually rakes hay and pulls wagons around—is strong enough to bale a little hay in a pinch. Before long, I had the loose hay dealt with and the hay barn clean for another season.

If I hadn’t tested my equipment beforehand, I would have been in a tough situation when the first three-day hay window opened up and I discovered both tractor and baler had issues in need of fixing. Instead, I was able to work through the issues on my own time, leaving me ahead of the game and ready for a busy summer of hay production.

Categories
Animals Breeds Chickens 101 Farm & Garden Poultry

Can You Identify This Mystery Chicken Breed?

Chickens and other poultry members come in all sizes, shapes, colors and personalities. Nearly 400 recognized breeds and varieties of poultry exist, including large fowl and bantam chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys and guinea fowl. Using our illustration and a few selected hints, can you guess which mystery breed we have depicted here?

Find out the answer below.

Hints

  • With origins dating back to the time of Julius Caesar, this petite bird is a very old and rare chicken breed. 
  • Close-fitting feathers cause this chicken breed to appear even smaller than it is.
  • The rooster possesses a form of “hen feathering,” in which he doesn’t develop long sickle feathers in the tail, hackle and saddle feathers.
  • The APA recognizes two colors: Golden and Silver, and despite its name, it probably doesn’t like to go “camping.” 

Mystery Breed Answer

The breed depicted above is the energetic Campine, a dependable layer of medium-sized white eggs. Both varieties are solid-colored on the head and neck and display black barring on the body and tail.

The chicken breed’s single comb and medium-sized wattles are bright red. Its bright-white earlobes sit close to the head. Shanks are leaden blue.

Standard Campine cocks weigh 6 pounds and hens weigh 4 pounds. Bantam Campine cocks weigh 26 ounces and hens weigh 22 ounces. The breed is listed in the Critical category of the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy’s Conservation Priority List. Learn more at Hobbyfarms.com/campine-2. To purchase Golden Campines, visit Murray McMurray Hatchery online.

This mystery chicken breed feature originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.