Finding the correct ATV and UTV tire types can be tricky. For the most part, choosing the right tires for a tractor is straightforward. Three main types—R1 agricultural tires, R3 turf tires, and R4 industrial tires—offer varying pros and cons when it comes to traction, strength, and suitability for lawns.
But if you’re a hobby farmer using an ATV or UTV, you’ll find a wider variety of ATV and UTV tire types to consider. What type of tire is best for your machine? It depends on the ground conditions your ATV or UTV will be asked to handle.
Tire Type to Start With
Start with general-purpose, all-terrain tires. There’s a strong chance your machine came equipped with these tires. While they’re not specifically geared to handle any particular type of terrain (like mud, sand, or snow), all-terrain tires —much like R4 industrial tires for tractors—can be the perfect choice for hobby farmers who need their machine to traverse gravel driveways, grassy lawns, bumpy fields, and a little mud. In other words, a bit of everything.
Speaking of mud, hopefully your farming needs don’t require driving an ATV or UTV through deep mud. But if that’s on your agenda, consider mud tires, which features deep and widely spaced lugs designed to stay clean and power through the sloppiest conditions. Just keep in mind that mud tires can make for a bumpy ride on dry ground; like the R2 tractor tires designed for use in extremely wet conditions, ATV and UTV mud tires are great when mud is deep and less suitable anywhere else. The lugs can even be damaged on hard ground.
The same goes for sand tires, which are largely smooth, but with paddle-like lugs designed to scoop through the sand and not get bogged down. They’re great in deep sand, but the paddles will take a beating on hard ground, so you’re probably not interested in sand tires unless your farm has a lot of loose, sandy terrain.
Racing tires are another option; they’re designed to maximize traction over hard ground, particular when traveling at high speeds. But there not necessarily as durable as all-terrain tires, and they won’t be as effective in mud or sand as specialized tires (or even all-terrain tires), so racing tires have some shortcomings when viewed through the eyes of a hobby farmer. After all, you probably won’t be tearing around your farm at racing speeds.
Other Types of ATV/UTV Tires
Now, it’s worth investigating whether you can acquire other types of tires for your ATV or UTV. For example, snow tires with treads designed for optimal performance on snowy ground, or turf tires with wide treads and closely spaced lugs that will inflict minimal damage on lawns. A typical hobby farmer is more likely to drive an ATV or UTV through snow or grass than deep mud or sand, so seeking out snow and turf tires compatible with your machine may be worth the time and investment.
Chances are an all-terrain tire will serve you well as a hobby farmer. But it’s helpful to know all your options in case snow tires, turf tires, mud tires, racing tires, or even sand tires prove perfect or complementary for your specific needs.
Winter livestock chores can’t be neglected. Naturally, hobby farmers spend less time outdoors over the winter. While fall is a great time to prepare your feeding systems and structures to be a little more self-sustaining, it doesn’t mean you can coast through winter without chores. Even with topnotch preparation, winter is difficult on animals, and you must maintain daily, weekly, monthly and seasonal chores.
Animals struggle during the winter because their bodies go into stress keeping themselves warm. Many females have bred during the fall and are pulled down with the burden of pregnancies.
Observation is always the most important daily chore for every aspect of farming. Getting outdoors daily doesn’t have to take a long time, but it’ll remain necessary. Invest in some tough winter gear including boots, gloves, hats, coats to make your time outdoors safer and more bearable. To help you get the bases covered quickly, know exactly what needs to be done and move through the following checklist to keep the animals on your farm safe and healthy.
Daily Livestock Chores
Here are the livestock chores you should do daily in the winter.
Check waterers. Break ice, if necessary. Consider water heaters to prevent water from freezing.
Check the food supply. Make sure your animals always have adequate portions, and monitor that they’re eating enough. Even if your feeding systems are automated, make sure they’re working properly every day.
Check any heat lamps. Make sure they’re working properly and aren’t overheating. Also check that the surroundings aren’t getting too hot, which could lead to fires.
Collect any eggs before they freeze.
Rachel Porter
Weekly Livestock Chores
Do these livestock chores each week during winter.
Check roofing structures for leaks.
Check shelters for drafts, and board up, if necessary.
Add new bedding using the “deep litter method” for chickens and animals.
Top up the coop and nesting boxes with hay or mulch.
Give chickens a supplement, such as mealworms, oyster grit, pumpkin seeds, etc. to beef up their calorie intake.
Supplement your livestock with loose minerals, protein blocks or necessary nutrients.
Check for any signs of mice. They’re always seeking warm places stockpiled with food, but you want to make sure they aren’t taking the feed from your animals.
Check feed storage for any dampness which leads to mold.
Observe power supply and backup generators for facilities.
Monthly Livestock Chores
Each month in winter, follow this livestock chore checklist.
Inventory supplies and medications.
Deep clean stalls and coops.
Refill dust baths systems for chickens if they aren’t still free-ranging.
Add some diatomaceous earth bedding to control lice, fleas, mites, ticks and other bugs. The closer the herds huddle, the more often outbreaks can occur.
Rachel Porter
Seasonal Checklist
At least once this season, check off these items on your to-do list.
Schedule a seasonal vet check. Have your veterinarian do a wellness check during the winter to make sure they’re healthy and prepared to go into Spring.
Catch up on paperwork. Make sure registrations are up to date.
Culling lists. If you’re planning to sell livestock, make sure to plan now.
Check your selling platforms. What information needs updated? What waitlists can you start now for spring animal sales?
Plan financially to increase profits.
Price shop your local market to set your annual fee structure.
Find ways to cut expenses on your farm i.e.,
Price shop your normal go-to products.
Order in bulk to save money.
Consider waste. Are your feeding systems creating waste? Are you composting food scraps, animal bedding? If not, ways to reuse waste on the farm that save money.
Evaluate vaccine schedules.
Evaluate supplement schedules.
Winter Livestock Health
Winter chores should not take long but as we spend more time indoors, use that time to be more intentional about planning the full year. Intentional planning will serve your farm well for the entire year.
Reflecting about the health of your animals can allow you to put systems in place to prevent future problems. Be thankful for a winter season that beckons you indoors and gives you the opportunity to make improvements for a new successful year.
Growing under the cover of a low tunnel is an easy way to get a jump start with your spring vegetable garden. These temporary structures are miniature versions of greenhouses. The domed plastic is great at trapping and holding heat in the soil. Quick, easy and inexpensive to build, low tunnels can be popped up anywhere, so they also work well with crop rotation. These extend the growing season in the spring to warm soil for earlier planting and in the fall to keep cold hearty crops in the garden longer.
Crop Selection
You’ll also need to start with cold hardy crops. Some of the best choices are brassicas (aka cole crops) such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbages and kale, plus beets, radishes and spring greens.
The listed plants will start germinating at temperatures around 40 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Another good list is here.
Temperature Control
But we need to make as important distinction between air and soil temperatures. It’s soil temperature that you need to pay attention to for germinating the earliest plants. Luckily for seedlings and plant roots, soil temperatures are more consistent than air temperatures.
Having a dedicated thermometer to track soil temps will help you keep a handle on things. I actually have a few thermometers so I can keep them in the soil (which gives more accurate readings) in different places, this helps me track my soil temperatures in different garden beds.
The most effective way to warm the soil is to cover it. Coverage on the surface will help a little but bringing that covering up off the ground so the sun’s rays get trapped inside helps even more.
Michelle Brugh
Let’s Build a Low Tunnel
Gather the following needed materials. (Use what you have on hand, but this will get you going.)
18- to 24-inch sections of ¼-inch rebar (I use six total for my 4-by-8 beds.)
8- to 10-foot sticks of ½-inch PVC (I use 4 total for my 4-by-8 beds.)
2- to 8- millimeter plastic sheeting (I use roughly 10-by-16-foot sheets for my 4-by-8 beds.)
clips or blocks to secure plastic snug to ground
Start by finding the dimensions of what you want to cover, and pound in ¼-inch rebar every 2 to 3 feet along the perimeter, so it sticks out a few inches above the ground.
Then slide ½-inch PVC over the rebar, arching from one side of the bed to the other.
Secure an extra piece of PVC along the length of the top to stabilize the low tunnel and help keep it from collapsing after heavy snow.
Cover with 2- to 8-millimeter thick plastic. Rolls of plastic typically come in 10-foot-wide rolls. How tall you want the tunnel, and the width of your bed will determine the width of the plastic you need. For our 4-foot wide beds, the 10-foot-wide works great as we make our low tunnels pretty tall.
Michelle Brugh
You can use clips to keep plastic in place, dig it into soil or use anything handy such as landscape bricks to hold it down. This does bring plastic into your garden but is reusable for many seasons to come, as we’ve been using the same materials for six years now.
Michelle Bruhn
Cheers to growing more food in the same space, getting in an earlier succession and harvests just by growing under a low tunnel!
Do you want to learn to make your own nut mylks (plant-based milk alternatives such as oat, almond, soy, rice), such as homemade coconut mylk? Whether you are living a vegan lifestyle or perhaps just a bit vegan-curious, you’ll want to grab a copy of the newly released, The Vegan Dairy Cookbook: Make Your Own Plant-Based Mylks, Cheezes, and Kitchen Staples, by Marleen Visser.
This cookbook is chock full of vegan dairy alternative recipes that you can easily make from home. Visser’s recipes are simple to follow and also creative and delicious. Her book includes recipes for various nut mylks, butters, yogurts, cream cheezes, desserts and more.
I don’t live in vegan household. However, over the years, family members of my family have gone vegan due to health issues and dietary restrictions. We do occasionally opt for vegan alternatives to get around many of the food allergies we have within our extended family.
One recipe in the cookbook that stood out was for coconut mylk. We normally buy it canned, and it never occurred to me to make my own homemade coconut mylk before, so I was excited to give it a try.
optional flavorings: maple syrup, vanilla extract, cinnamon, dates
Preparation
Combine the coconut with water and salt in a food processor and blend until smooth.
Place a piece of cheesecloth in a strainer over a bowl, and strain the mixture through the cheesecloth. Squeeze out any excess moisture. Taste the mylk, and strain again as needed.
Add any desired flavorings at this point, such as maple syrup, vanilla extract, cinnamon, and/or dates.
Pour the mylk into sterilized bottles, and store in the refrigerator. Enjoy within 4 days.
Notes
If you want to put the leftover pulp to use, consider mixing it with yogurt, oats, nuts and fruit for a delicious no-waste breakfast.
With The Vegan Dairy Cookbook, learn how to make all kinds of vegan dairy products at home that taste just as good as the real thing (if not better)! This helpful guide includes 50 homemade vegan dairy recipes.
Several years ago, I noticed that while my healthy hens were robust during the growing season, their health declined a little during winter when they weren’t regularly consuming herbs or other greens. So, I started supplementing my flock’s diet with herbal tea in winter.
Since introducing wintertime teas, my chickens have been as vigorous and healthy in the winter as they are the rest of the year. I have also noticed fewer winter deaths. So, if you want healthy hens this winter, look no further than wintertime teas.
Brewing Tea
Winter can be difficult for chickens as the snowy conditions make accessing fresh greens and herbs impossible. Not only does foraging for these nutritious plants act as fun mental stimulations, but they also provide chickens with essential vitamins, minerals and other health benefits. And tea is one of the best ways to incorporate herbs into your flock’s winter diet!
Brewing tea for your chickens is as easy as brewing a cup of tea for yourself. Start by boiling 1½ cups of water. Add 1 teaspoon of dried herbs to boiling water. Cover the tea and remove from heat. Let steep for 20 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Serve to your flock by mixing 1 cup of herbal tea into 1 gallon of water.
Winter Herbs for Healthy Hens
While many culinary herbs benefit chickens, the herbs below are some of the best to boost chickens’ health during the colder months.
CINNAMON/OREGANO: While cinnamon and oregano tea may sound like something other than the tastiest combination, this tea is an herbal powerhouse. This tea is my go-to for treating minor respiratory problems. Cinnamon is also one of the best herbs to aid digestion and positively affects the G.I. tract, helping with digestion and absorption. At the same time, oregano works as a natural antibiotic and helps ward off viruses (including the avian flu) and bacteria found in many chicken runs. Both of these herbs are also considered immune boosters and anti-inflammatories.
To serve, dilute one-half cup (4 fl.oz.) of tea into one gallon of water.
THYME: During the winter months, our hens spend more time in the coop. While staying indoors during snowy days is vital for your flock’s survival, it can cause extra moisture to build up in the coop. In extreme cases, this moisture can cause respiratory issues in the flock. Thyme is excellent at boosting respiratory health and is also high in antioxidants, supporting a healthy immune system. One of the best antiparasitics in the herb world, thyme is a natural insect repellant and antihelminthic.
While thyme has many health benefits, it is also a potent herb. When brewing thyme tea for your flock, steep one-half teaspoon of dried thyme in one and a half cups of water. Dilute one cup in a gallon of water.
BASIL: If you are looking for a “one herb wonder” to treat all your poultry health problems, basil may be that herb. This herb has many beneficial flavonoids, vitamins and minerals to boost your flock’s immune systems. Basil also works as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anticancer, antifungal and antiviral.
DILL: While dill is often overlooked when brewing tea for poultry, this tender herb offers many year-round benefits for chickens. Dill is excellent in aiding in digestive health, including stimulating the appetite. This quality is essential in winter, as chickens that aren’t consuming enough food could quickly grow weak and die. Ensuring your flock’s appetite is in peak condition during the cold winter is vital to keep hens thriving through winter and ensure their bodies are healthy enough to resume laying in the spring.
Dill also aids in respiratory health and is considered an antioxidant, anticancer and natural anti-inflammatory.
An Herb to Avoid in Winter
While many culinary herbs are beneficial in winter, some members of the mint family are best to avoid when temperatures dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. However, the herbs listed below are safe to feed fresh or steeped in tea during the warmer months.
MINT:Everyone loves mint, including chickens, so why should you avoid mint tea during the winter months? Some experts suggest that peppermint naturally helps lower body temperatures in chickens (and humans). Drinking a hot cup of peppermint tea in winter doesn’t negatively affect humans, but our chickens out in the cold and wind may not fare well. While more studies are needed to conclude this suggestion, I am always cautious and avoid feeding peppermint or other mint varieties during the colder months.
Erin Synder
A Word on Lemon Balm
Even though lemon balm is a member of the mint family, this tea has long been known as an antitumor. Due to the high risk of domestic chickens being diagnosed with reproductive tumors, I serve lemon balm tea year-round to my flock. Because lemon balm does have the same cooling properties found in other mint, adding lemon balm tea to your flock’s drinking water in the winter shouldn’t have any ill effects.
Supplementing your flock’s diet in winter will help keep healthy hens happy year-round. And resume laying those spring eggs every flock owner is eagerly anticipating.
Whether your farm receives 10 inches or 10 feet of snow per winter, your most important farm machines (like your ATV, UTV, tractor, etc.) should be ready to handle the conditions. When winter weather gets tough, your farm machines need to keep going.
The key is to be prepared before the first snowstorm strikes. You don’t want to be scrambling to find tire chains and trade out a mower deck for a snow blower attachment when (surprise!) you get 8 inches of snow overnight and it’s difficult to walk to your barn. Nor do you want your tractor struggling to start on a cold morning when there’s much work to be done.
Let’s walk through the steps to prepare your farm machines for maximum winter performance.
Prep From the Inside Out
It’s tempting to focus on outer accoutrements that make machines visibly winter-worthy, but you shouldn’t overlook the basics: the inner adjustments that can’t be seen at a glance but are important at a foundational level.
Even before you turn your attention to winter prep, your farm machines should be up to date on regular maintenance. Do air filters need to be cleaned or replaced? Do any fluids need to be replenished? Even if you’re on top of engine maintenance, your farm machines might appreciate a deep cleaning of accumulated dirt and debris before winter strikes.
Once you’re finished, you can dive into the following winter adjustments.
Winter-Worthy Oil
Modern engine oil is remarkable. Multigrade oils such as 5W-30 stay thin enough in cold temperatures to facilitate engine starting, but thicken up sufficiently to keep the engine running safely at high temperatures. The range of temperatures they can handle is impressive compared to single-grade oils.
Oil grades (also known as weights) are measured by the SAE J300 standard. If a number is followed by a “W,” it’s measuring cold-weather performance; the lower the number, the better the oil can handle cold temperatures. Unmarked numbers measure oil viscosity at 212 degrees Fahrenheit; the higher the number, the better the oil can handle hot ambient temperatures.
In many cases, a multigrade oil works well all year, especially for farm machines kept in a heated garage where they aren’t exposed to extremely cold winter temperatures when starting. But if your workhorse plow tractor lives outside under a lean-to all winter, you may want to switch out its summer oil for one offering better cold-weather performance. Consult the machine’s manual for advice. Chances are there will be recommendations for the type of oil to use based on the ambient temperature.
Engine Heaters
If your machine lives outdoors and starting in cold weather is problematic even with a winter-grade oil, consider adding a heater to the engine. An engine block heater, an oil pan heater, a heater installed in place of the dipstick, etc. will keep the engine (and the oil) warm and improve cold-weather starting, provided you park close enough to an electrical outlet for the heater to operate.
Diesel Fuel Gelling
At temperatures below 32 degrees, diesel fuel starts to gel. As the temperature drops even lower, the gelled fuel can clog the fuel filter, preventing your engine from running. The critical temperature is known as the cold filter plugging point.
Fuel gelling is less likely to be a concern if your diesel machine parks in a heated garage when not in use; out and about on cold days, the running of the engine will discourage the fuel from gelling. But if you plan on leaving a diesel engine outside when temperatures are below 32 degrees, you’ll want to take steps to prevent fuel gelling.
Mixing diesel No. 1 fuel (which contains kerosene) with diesel No. 2 fuel can lower the temperature at which the mixture starts to gel. The appropriate ratio of diesel No. 1 to diesel No. 2depends on how cold the weather is expected to be; as a general rule of thumb, every 10 percent addition of diesel No. 1 lowers the cold filter plugging point by approximately 5 degrees, maybe a little less.
Fuel additives can similarly discourage gelling and lower the cold filter plugging point. When cold weather is in the forecast, follow the instructions to mix an appropriate amount of additive into your diesel fuel.
If this all sounds complicated, the good news is, your local gas station likely sells premixed winter-ready diesel fuel suitable for your area. So long as you switch to the winter-ready fuel shortly before problematic temperatures strikes, you should be good to go.
Fuel Stabilizers
Not every farm machine needs to be prepped for winter duty, because some will spend the winter slumbering away until spring. But it doesn’t take long for gasoline and diesel fuel to start degrading inside farm machines unused during winter, which can hurt the engines.
What’s the solution? You could drain the fuel tanks, but that takes time and allows water to condensate inside the fuel tank, which can corrode the fuel system. Instead, use a fuel stabilizer to slow down the degrading of fuel. Follow the instructions to mix the right amount of stabilizer into the fuel system, and your farm machines can be safely stored—fuel and all—during the winter off season.
Batteries
Batteries don’t like cold weather. To make sure a battery is ready to fire up an engine in cold weather, take good care of them. If a machine is going to be stored in the cold and used infrequently, considering disconnecting and even removing the battery when not in use. Store the battery in a warmer location for best results.
Aim to keep the battery fully charged as well. Starting a cold engine requires a lot of power, so letting the battery run down (whether from lack of use or too many starts in short order) can be problematic in winter.
J. Keeler Johnson
Properly Inflated Tires
Cold weather can mess with the air pressure inside your tires, causing the psi (pound-force per square inch) to drop lower than ideal. Before winter strikes, make sure the tires on your vehicles are inflated to the proper psi, and don’t forget to check them again when temperatures drop.
Maintaining the proper psi is important. While some folks subscribe to the theory that mildly underinflated tires offer better winter traction (because more of the tread comes in contact with the ground), this can damage tires and wheels, negatively affect steering and reduce driving safety. There are better ways to improve traction, which is an important point, because when conditions get tough, peak performance is all about traction.
Traction
When the ground is snowy and/or icy, maintaining suitable traction between tires and the ground can be difficult, especially for lightweight machines and those without four-wheel drive or aggressive tire treads. Those turf tires that are so kind on your lawn aren’t designed for getting a good grip in slushy snow.
There are several ways to improve tire traction. If you’re preparing a vehicle for clearing snow or navigating particularly challenging winter terrain, you may want to combine two or more of the following add-ons to boost traction and performance.
Snow Tires
Suitable snow tires might not be available for every farm machine you own, but for certain farm machines (such as a farm truck equipped with a snowplow), you may want to switch out your regular tires for snow tires during winter.
Snow tires are designed to improve traction on snow and ice. They feature deep, aggressive treads, and they’re better able to handle cold temperatures. If you opt for snow tires, install them on every wheel; don’t mix and match them with regular tires.
Tire Chains
An effective traction boost can be gained by installing tire chains, which wrap around tires to firmly grip snow and ice. While not infallible, they’re pretty much a must-have accessory if you’re going to use an ATV, UTV or even a tractor to clear snow. If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, you’ll want chains for all four tires. If you’re working with two-wheel drive, chains on the drive wheels should be sufficient. Follow the instructions to install the chains, tightening them as best you can. You may have to drive forward a short distance to check if any more slack develops; if so, tighten the chains again.
Tire chains are awesome in many winter situations, but they shouldn’t be used at speeds over 30 miles per hour. Nor should tire chains be used on dry roads; if there isn’t a cushion of snow and ice, you’ll wear out the chains and possibly damage the road as well.
To purchase the right size chains for your vehicle, you’ll need to know the width of each tire from sidewall to sidewall, the diameter of the tire and the tire height aspect ratio—all of which are likely inscribed on the sides of your tires. Many chains fit more than one size of tire, so you have a bit of wiggle room. In addition, the manufacturer may provide instructions for purchasing the right size.
Ballast
Ballast comes in many forms and has a couple of purposes. For lightweight vehicles, ballast improves traction by increasing the weight pressing down on the tires. For vehicles operating with heavy attachments on the front or rear end (such as a snow blower or snowplow), ballast carried at the opposite end counterbalances the implement weight to prevent vehicle damage and maintain proper traction for steering and drive power.
Common types of ballast include:
suitcase weights:Square or rectangular weights with handles, designed to be quickly and conveniently installed at the front or rear of a vehicle. They come in varying sizes and can be perfect for counterbalancing heavy implements.
ballast box: A ballast box installs on the three-point hitch of a tractor and can be filled with heavy items (dirt, rocks, concrete blocks, etc.)to counterbalance a heavy load on the front end.
tube sandbags: Stacking sandbags in the back of a farm truck puts weight over the drive wheels (assuming it has rear-wheel drive), increasing traction for plowing snow and gripping slippery terrain.
concrete block or cylinder: If you want to take a DIY approach, some people fuse three-point hitch pins inside a large concrete block or cylinder, which can then be picked up by the three-point hitch and used as an effective counterweight.
wheel weights: Installing weights directly on wheel rims or axles places a focus on increasing traction rather than counterbalancing a load (though they can help with that, too). As an added benefit, this approach takes weight off the frame of the tractor.
liquid tire ballast: By filling your tires with a heavy liquid, you can increase traction without straining other tractor components. You’ll need a liquid that can tolerate subfreezing temperatures, so plain water is out.
Calcium chloride has long been an option, but it’s corrosive and known for damaging wheel rims. Windshield washer fluid and antifreeze (the latter when mixed with water) are other possibilities, but both are toxic. Beet juice is more expensive, but it’s nontoxic and resists freezing to negative 35 degrees.
Snow-Clearing Attachments
Of course, improving traction won’t get you very far if your farm is buried under 3 feet of snow. Removing snow from your driveway and major pathways is critical to keep your farm in action when heavy snowstorms strike.
Fortunately, your tractor, farm truck, UTV and even your ATV can assist in clearing snow using one of three common attachments.
Daniel Johnson
Front-End Loader
A front-end loader is an effective means of shifting snow around to clear a driveway or regain walking/driving access to farm buildings. The advantages are compelling: there’s a good chance you already own a front-end loader, and it’s easy to take it off road compared to maneuvering a 7-foot snow blower attachment.
There are some downsides, however. Clearing snow with a front-end loader can be time-consuming and a bit messy. A typical bucket is oriented straight ahead and can’t be angled, which isn’t the best for plowing snow. You may have to frequently raise the bucket, turn and dump snow off the path you’re clearing.
If you don’t receive more than a few inches of snow in any given snowstorm, and if you need to clear only a short driveway and a couple of walking paths, a front-end loader can be a great choice. But for handling larger volumes of snow, a snowplow or snow blower may prove more suitable.
Snowplow
Snowplows come in many styles and sizes. Gaining control over the blade angle makes them fast and effective for clearing long driveways and pathways. They’re good at scraping snow down close to the ground, and they’re less expensive than snow blowers of similar size.
Where snowplows can struggle is in deep snow. If you get 2 feet of wet, heavy snow, your vehicle may struggle to push the plow through the snow, especially if you’re using a lightweight machine such as an ATV or UTV. Tight spaces can also be tricky for snowplows, and care must be taken to ensure that the snow piles you create are positioned where they won’t become problematic as winter drags on (and the piles get bigger).
Snow Blower
A snow blower attachment is highly effective in areas where snowstorms regularly produce a foot or more of snow. They’re not as fast to operate as a snowplow, but they can cleanly and methodically remove large volumes of snow. And because a snow blower discharges snow in a user-controlled direction as it operates, you won’t accumulate the large snow piles that can result from snowplow usage.
The main downside to a snow blower is the cost; they’re more complex than snowplows and pricier as a result. And in some cases, they’re less suitable for scraping snow all the way down to the ground; even if your snow blower features a scraping blade, you’ll have to be careful over some surfaces (such as gravel) to avoid scraping down and picking up debris that could damage the blades or discharge chute.
Snow blowers come in many sizes. A 7-foot snow blower will clear more snow in a single pass than a 4-foot snow blower, but narrower snow blowers are more maneuverable. You should also consider the number of stages; a single-stage snow blower handles a foot or less of light snow, while a two-stage snow blower is well-suited to most jobs and a three-stage snow blower aims to clear as much as 2 feet of heavy snow and ice.
Consider a Cab
Clearing snow on cold winter days can be unpleasant, especially if it’s windy and snow is blowing back in your face. Installing a cab on your vehicle can help protect you from the elements. It doesn’t have to be a full-fledged hard cab with a heater, though you’ll certainly enjoy that setup.
Soft cabs provide helpful protection from snow and wind and can be a relatively inexpensive choice for small, lightweight vehicles. See if there are cab options available from your machine’s manufacturer; if not, there may be suitable third-party cabs available.
Once your machines are decked out for winter, you may feel invincible, like there’s no task you can’t handle. But that feeling quickly goes away when your tractor-mounted snow blower is buried in a snowdrift and your tractor is helplessly spinning its wheels (chains and all) in slushy, muddy snow.
Common sense goes a long way when dealing with winter conditions. Start slow, and don’t push your machines beyond their means. Stay on top of snow clearing, and don’t let too much accumulate before you dig in. Keep up with regular maintenance and remember, the coming of spring is inevitable, and before you know it you’ll be performing all these steps in reverse to celebrate the end of winter.
This article originally appeared in the Nov./Dec. 2023 issue of Hobby Farms magazine.
Did you know January is National Mail Order Gardening Month? January is the perfect time of year to hunt through seed, garden, and nursery catalogs, shopping for the perfect plants to grow in gardens and orchards.
I love picking out varieties that I’ve never tried before, because—to me—experimenting with new and different plants is half the fun. Here are three plants that I’m excited to grow for the first time in 2024.
1. Apricot Tree
My orchard is filled with fruit trees that are hardy to northern Wisconsin winters: more than a dozen varieties of apples, three different kinds of plums, three types of cherries and even a couple of pears.
But I’m also branching out with more adventurous specimens. A couple of years ago I planted a cold-hardy Contender Peach tree that is doing well. And in 2024, I intend to plant a similarly cold-hardy apricot tree.
I haven’t seriously considered planting apricots in the past because I assumed they weren’t hardy enough for my region. But shopping through catalogs this winter, it seems there are at least a couple of varieties hardy to Zone 4.
Emboldened by this discovery, I’m going to give an apricot a try. My orchard is situated on a south-facing slope, so as with my peach tree, I’ll plant my apricot at the top of the hill (for frost protection), where it will be protected from harsh winter winds by rows of windbreak trees to the west, north and east.
By taking this approach–and by mulching it thoroughly before each winter—I’m optimistic my apricot will not only survive, but thrive.
2. Jarrahdale Pumpkins
I have a tendency to grow the same pumpkin varieties year after year. Early Prince and Casperita are my two favorites. They’ve proven productive and consistent in my raised garden beds.
But last year, I expanded my horizons with Big Max pumpkins. The plants struggled a bit with health issues, but I did manage to grow two hefty pumpkins—one of them the largest I’ve ever grown.
Now that I’ve conquered “big pumpkins,” I’m going to branch into growing different colors. I love my miniature white Casperita pumpkins, and in 2024 I’m going to plant blue Jarrahdale pumpkins.
When I saw them in a seed catalog, I knew I had to give them a try. Blue is a relatively uncommon color in nature, and blue pumpkins will be a delight to grow. The only tricky part is the fact they require 100 days or more to grow and ripen. I may start them off indoors as seedlings to give them a head start.
3. Mongolian Giant Sunflowers
I enjoy growing American Giant sunflowers each year and will plant more in 2024. But I’m going to try another variety as well: Mongolian Giant.
It seems that Mongolian Giants can grow to extraordinary size—more than a dozen feet tall, with flower heads as wide as 1 1/2 feet. I plan to grow them in a rich bed of compost soil, giving them every chance to live up to the “Giant” part of their name. I may even stake a few of them to provide extra support and see if they’ll grower taller as a result.
Can you believe it? We’ve reached the beginning of January! While each season brings its own good and bad points, the cold weather can be a challenge for me. When I’m cold, it’s hard for me to get motivated and get to work. But when I’ve made smart choices and prepared myself ahead of time for the job at hand, whether that be caring for cattle or performing other farm chores, I function better in winter.
While our cattle might be more suited for the outdoor winter temperatures than we are, the bitter temperatures, biting wind and blinding snow (although that doesn’t happen too often here) can still be unpleasant for them. Depending on what breed of cattle you have and where they originate from, some can be more tolerant of nasty conditions than others. But with some proper care and preparation done ahead of time, you can make your animals much more comfortable throughout the harsh winter days.
Here are some things to keep in mind and mistakes to avoid as you consider caring for your own cattle during the winter months.
Weather
Although you can’t do much to change the weather conditions themselves, you can work extra hard to protect your herd from the elements. Days that vary greatly in temperature with too-hot daytime hours and too-cold nights can be some of the hardest for cattle to manage.
Wet conditions can also be a challenge, especially if there’s no dry place for them to lie down. If you find that it’s especially wet and cold outside, some ways to help them cope include:
Having them out on grass or pasture rather than in a dry lot.
If in a dry lot, offer a mound of dirt that the water can run off of and where they will have a dry spot to lay on.
If needed, use equipment to go into the pen or lot and manually clear away a large space that will give them solid ground to rest on.
Water
While cattle desperately need water during the summer as they battle through the toasty months, it’s also extremely important to keep a close eye on the water supply during the winter as well. Even though there might be water in the tank, it might be stuck under several inches of ice. Ponds can freeze over, water fountains can malfunction, and stock tanks can become blocks of ice.
For frozen ponds, it’s helpful to keep an axe or other tool handy to chop accessible drinking holes through the ice. For water fountains, check them regularly to ensure that the heating elements are doing their jobs and keep any necessary spare parts on hand for quick repairs.
If putting water in a stock tank, it can be good to avoid filling it completely full so that it won’t freeze solid at the top.
Feed
Cattle “burn” through a lot of feed when it’s really cold outside as they essentially eat to stay warm. Feed rations can be adjusted as needed to help meet their nutritional requirements during the colder months.
Keep well stocked with good quality hay and grain, and avoid waiting until it’s getting cold to go buy feed.
Bedding
At times if it is quite cold out, straw bales can be rolled out on the ground for the cattle to lay down in. The straw acts as insulation and can even be used out in a calving pasture if calves are being born and need a place to lay.
When it comes to wind, offer a wind-block or some protected place where animals can get a break from the wind.
Calving
Speaking of calving, if your cow herd has early “spring calves” toward the beginning of the year, not only will you need to be regularly keeping on top of their normal needs such as feed, water and protection from the elements, but you’ll want to watch out for any other potential threats to the new calves as well.
These threats can be in the form of anything from a physical hazard in the pasture (like a ditch with frozen water that a calf could become trapped in), to an inexperienced heifer that doesn’t get the calf cleaned off and nursing in time, or even a hungry predator that is hoping to catch its next meal in your calving pasture. Regularly check in to make sure that all babies are accounted for and hopefully warmly nursing right under mama.
As you raise and care for your cattle year after year, you’ll become more accustomed to what their needs will be, where your most common problems often arise, and what you can do to become better prepared for them.
So grab an extra pair of long johns and wrap that scarf a little tighter. You’ve got cattle to feed!
Another principle is wild ecosystems that they build potential. When you have a field of corn, you start with a certain number of seeds. If you fertilize the field and have a successful year, you will get a good yield of corn cobs with much more seed than when you started. This is agriculture.
But, if you don’t dry the seed, save it over the winter, then prepare the land and seed the corn again, then the landscape will yield nothing the next year. Yes, nothing will grow that is of use to the farmer or the community that eats the corn, aside from some random weeds.
On the other hand, an ecosystem builds potential with time. If you plant a diversified field—or in our case a yard with fruits, nuts, berries and herbs—and you leave it, it will continue to produce. In five years, there will be more fruits than previously. The soil will be richer from fallen and composted leaves, and the soil will host new habitat for soil organisms to help fix nitrogen and access deeper nutrients in the soil.
This is not just a difference between an annual and a perennial agriculture, either. An orchard with only apples will be less resilient if there is a major pest outbreak than a diversified fruit forest with many different varieties. Yes, perhaps some varieties in the fruit forest will fail due to pests, but others will fill in the gaps and the ecosystem continues to build potential as a whole.
A community built from ecosystem landscapes using sustainable gardening principles will in, say, 15 years present many benefits and opportunities. Community members can harvest fruits, nuts or herbs. They can graft scion wood and sell fruit trees. They can chip pruning for edible mushrooms and so on.
The community will also have increased wellness from the beautiful and bountiful landscapes through local, nutrient-dense food. And these ecosystems also provode the health benefits of “forest bathing,” which has proven that rich colors, scents and textures of natural landscapes have beneficial effects on human mental, emotional and physical health. Wow, it really is a pharmacy!
Holistic Soil
Finally, all terrestrial ecosystems are deeply connected to their soil. And this soil is alive!
The term “holistic soil” refers to a soil that has a balance of mineral material, organic matter and pore space for air and water. Indeed, an ideal soil composition is about 45 percent mineral, 5 percent organic matter, 25 percent air and 25 percent water. This means 50 percent of the soil is actually openings in the soil aggregates for air and water (otherwise known as pore space). These macro pores and micro pores (as they can be classified) help to keep the soil hydrated and aerated, which help plants survive.
This provides good drainage in major storms and provides oxygen for decomposition of organic matter.
However, and of the utmost importance, is the fact that a well-balanced soil also helps sustain soil life. Within the soil there is a micro ecosystem of organisms: from bacteria that fix nitrogen from the atmosphere, to mycorrhizal fungi that share resources with plants and arthropods that help shred and decompose organic leaf litter into more soluble and plant-available nutrients. Soil is like a city with pathways of transport, communication, plumbing and electricity. Soil even holds houses and places of work!
When we support a healthy structure to the soil in our garden, by avoiding compaction, and providing protection over the winter through cover cropping, and regular additions of organic matter, then our “soil society” thrives and provides support for the plants we want to grow. Natural ecosystems have thriving soil life, and our garden should too!
When we use these sustainable garden practices in our gardens and yards, we maximize the benefits of wild ecosystems, such as the improved soil health and its ability to fix, store, cycle and release nutrients and water to our garden plants. This creates gardens that are more drought resistant and self-regulating for fertility.
Good ecosystem design also creates plants that are healthier and more resistant to pests! A plant that is healthy can easily acquire the nutrients it needs to grow vigorously and will more quickly develop strong shields made of lipids in their leaves to defend against the chewing insects like flea beetles.
Ecosystems are biodiverse, full of site-suitable plants, with layered form and many functions, as well as constantly building overall potential such as dynamic holistic soil rich in organic matter and teaming with life. Ecosystem design, and all the benefits it provides now and into the future, can start with simply integrating layered diversity into our yards and protecting and enhancing the soil.
In my WECK Small-Batch Preserving cookbook, I share a recipe for a savory leek paste that my friend Holly Howe contributed. Holly is the author of Mouthwatering Sauerkraut and developed this delicious, fermented recipe.
This leek paste is used to enhance soups, stews, sauteed greens and pasta dishes. It also makes a great spread for cheese and crackers or a savory spread for sandwiches.
Wash and prepare leeks by removing the outer leaves and cutting off the darkest portion of each stalk. Slice lengthwise into uniform-sized pieces. Rinse under cold water, removing any dirt and grit.
In a food processor, pulse the garlic until finely chopped, then add leeks and pulse again until roughly chopped. Add remaining ingredients.
Pack mixture into a clean pint canning jar, leaving 1 to 2 inches of headspace. Push the paste down well so that there are no air bubbles within the mixture. Apply the jar lid and tightly screw on the ring.
Fermentation
This is a 3-to-5-day ferment. Ferment at room temperature and keep out of direct sunlight.
Open the jar once daily, and (with a clean utensil) stir the mixture. Pat it back down to remove any air pockets. Taste test the paste on day 4 to determine if it’s finished fermenting. It should have a slightly sour taste, and the flavors should have melded together. An indication that the paste is finished and ready to enjoy is when the bright green color of the leeks has dulled and the leeks have softened.
Once complete, store in an airtight container and transfer to the refrigerator.
