Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Large Animals

Tips For Safely Hauling Cattle In A Livestock Trailer

Whether you’re hauling a single steer to the vet or bringing home an entire group of cattle from the sale barn, transporting livestock is a serious task. At some point in your time of raising cattle, you will likely need to either transport some for yourself or find somebody else to do it for you. Although purchasing a livestock trailer can be a large investment, if properly cared for it can last a long time and be a great asset to your homestead.

Once you do get started hauling cattle, here are some tips for not only good trailer care, but also preparing to haul livestock, and safe driving practices while doing so.

Truck & Trailer Maintenance

Keeping your trailer in good working condition is important for not only the longevity of it, but also safety during use. Regularly cleaning out both manure and used bedding will help prevent rust/oxidation from forming and eating away at the metal frame.

If it has a wood floor, ensuring that any repairs needed are done promptly can help to avoid the floor rotting and an animal breaking through. 

Along with regular cleaning, it’s also important to keep lights, brakes and wheel bearings in good working order. As local farmer and cattleman (and my husband) Kolton Krispense points out, the pickup truckyou’re pulling the trailer with needs to be dependable to avoid breaking down and stranding you along the side of a road with a load of cattle.

This can cause undue stress for both you and the cattle, and it can even require calling another truck to come pick up the livestock. 


Read more: Own livestock? You need a reliable trailer.


Pre-Trip Checklist

Each time before you pull out on a trip, do a walk-around of your rig and check it over thoroughly. Inspect the tires to determine if any are low or leaking. Watch for cracking along the outer edge, as this can cause a tire to be more prone to severe failure. Test both your truck and trailer lights to ensure they’re in working order. 

As you walk around, check the wheels for any loose lug nuts. Look over your end gate for any cracks or breaks in the metal, which could potentially be stressed when cattle push against it. And of course, be sure to check your local regulations for complete information regarding vehicle inspections.


Read more: Wooden trailers and wagons have some real advantages.


Safe Driving Tips

Driving a loaded pickup and stock trailer can be a rather intimidating experience at first. Although you might get more comfortable the longer you do it, it’s best to always remain cautious and alert.

While it will vary from load to load, a truck and trailer weigh a lot more than a car and will take a greater distance and time to stop. Keep this in mind as you drive. 

Before you head out, take the time to line the trailer floor with a layer of good bedding material (such as wood chips), which will help the cattle grip the floor and soften the trailer floor over a long distance. 

It can be helpful on larger loads to split the cattle into separate groups, though this will depend on the number of animals you’re hauling and if the trailer has more than one compartment (split by a gate between). Splitting the load can allow them to fit together more snugly in a compartment, so if an incident occurs where the vehicle has to swerve or move quickly, they will be less likely to bounce around in the trailer. 

Once loaded, do your best to both accelerate and come to a stop gently. Plan ahead and start slowing down in plenty of time. Try to provide the animals the smoothest ride you can. 

During the summer, it’s best to avoid hauling cattle in a trailer when it’s extremely hot out, as this stresses the cattle. To avoid this, consider going earlier in the day or later in the evening when cool. Make sure your trailer has good ventilation, allowing plenty of air flow. 

Hauling cattle can be a good learning experience, but it’s one you always need to take seriously. Take your time and do your best to drive safely. Be aware of not only what is going on around you but also in the trailer behind you, as cattle can move and shift about.

Please keep in min that these tips are just some good, basic suggestions to help when hauling cattle. Refer to your state or federal guidelines for proper procedures. Safe travels! 

Categories
Beginning Farmers Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Farm Management Homesteading Permaculture

Invite The Beneficial Praying Mantis Into Your Garden

A praying mantis should be a welcome sight in the garden, despite the insect’s intimidating features. These hugely beneficial insects eat a wide variety of pest insects, mites and bug eggs. Mantid egg cases are, in fact, commonly hatched and released by gardeners looking for general garden pest control without chemicals.

The praying mantis is a hero in any integrated pest management program. Understanding the insect’s benefits, as well as how you can use them in your garden, will serve you well when pest pressure starts to increase.  

Young mantids prey upon smaller soft-bodied insects (aphids, spiders, leafhoppers, mosquitos, flies, etc.), while adults graduate to larger, harder bodied pests (i.e. grasshoppers, caterpillars, crickets, mice, hummingbirds and small tree frogs).

Mantids’ brown and green colors provide stealthy camouflage while they stalk their prey. Their hands are held ready to capture smaller insects in the commonly recognized “praying position.”

Praying Mantises into Your Garden

It’s worth working to build a praying mantis-friendly environment in the garden, as these mighty hunters do a wonderful job of regulating the bug population.

Gardeners can work to attract praying mantis by enticing them with  plants in the rose or raspberry family. In addition, tall grasses and shrubbery offer shelter and security for their habitation. 

You can also purchase or hunt for praying mantis egg cases, known as ootheca, and hatch them to release in your garden.


Read more: Learn all about integrated pest management to control insects in the garden!


Ordering Praying Mantis Egg Cases

Oothecas are brown egg cases

praying mantis garden
Rachel Porter

containing between 50 and 200 individual eggs. Companies will ship these to users who can set them up properly. These providers gather the egg cases from the wild and are unsure of when the egg cases were first developed. So they can’t always give an accurate hatching window, which can be anywhere from 10 days to six weeks after receipt.

Hatching requires temperatures 60 degrees or warmer. Once hatching commences, the entire egg case is hatched within a few hours. Mantids can become cannibalistic if not released soon enough, so it is best to put them in the garden when several have emerged. 

Releasing the eggs is as simple as opening the lid on the provided container. Be sure to space your egg cases properly if you are releasing several at a time. For every 5,000 square feet, three cases are recommended, and you should really try not to order too many to prevent cannibalism.

Oothecs cost between $5 and $45, depending on the species. The pictured mantids are of the Carolina species. Carolina mantises are found more in the Southern states, whereas the Chinese mantis (which is more likely to attack beneficial pests) is mostly found on the East coast. Several species options are out there, so be sure to shop savvy.  

Moderation is key to life. If you try to build a population of too many praying mantises, they might just eliminate other beneficial insects such as lacewing wasps, hover flies, ladybugs and butterflies. However, diversity is key in the organic realm, and adding a healthy balance of these beneficial insects should work well to keep very destructive garden pests at bay. 

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Poultry Poultry Equipment

Chicken General Store: Chic(k) Poultry Products

Chicken Wheelchair

chicken chickens products chicken wheelchair

 

The Chicken Wheelchair is specifically designed for birds weighing less that 17 pounds and suitable for birds with deformed or missing legs. This custom support system has one or two holes for the legs and an opening at the back for elimination.

Chicken Coop Toy

chicken chickens products toys

The wooden Tender Leaf Chicken Coop is made for ages 3 and up and includes a rooster, two hens, eggs, nests and feeder.   

Decorative Steamer

This decorative steamer (pictured above) is made of cast iron with an enamel finish and adds humidity to a room. It can be used on any wood, coal, pellet or corn-burning stove.   

Chick Care Kit

chicken chickens products chick care

The Baby Chick Care Kit includes First Peep feed supplement, Chick E-lixir growth aid, Coop Recuperate coop care and a Baby Chick Success Guide.   

Chicken Poems

chicken chickens products

Author and former chicken-keeper Jane Finch, a member of the International Thriller Writers Inc., takes a break from crime fiction to write poems about our favorite animals for purchase on https://getbook.at/chickens or find out more about her at https://finchlark.webs.com. 

Chicken Change Purse

chicken chickens products crochet

Ideal for stashing change and other small items, this chicken change purse is an easy way to try crocheting. Download the free pattern, and buy all the items you need at www.yarnspirations.com. 

Cutting Board

chicken chickens products cutting board

A personalized cutting board is a unique housewarming, birthday or wedding gift. With multiple options for material, size and engraving, you can customize this cutting board to their favorite flock.   

Chicken Earrings

chicken chickens products earrings

Welcome warmer weather with these chicken-inspired earrings featuring a hen with a flower crown. Made of hardboard that is laser cut and printed, they’re lightweight and nickel-free.  

This article originally appeared in the May/June 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Health & Nutrition Poultry

Chicken Toe Injury? You May Need To Amputate. Here’s How

Chickens can be a lot like children. They squabble, like to explore the outdoors, adore treats, and have their moments of cuteness. And the moment our backs are turned, they get themselves into a heap of trouble.  

“Help! Are you there?” was the instant message I awoke to a couple of weeks ago. It was from my friend Kara, mom to both chickens and children, and I could sense a tone of desperation. I immediately replied in the affirmative.  

It turned out that, due to the onslaught of end-of-school-year events—prom, field day, yearbook day, class trip—Kara had barely had time to bathe, let alone focus on her flock. She was therefore utterly horrified to discover that her favorite hen, Harriet, was  limping gingerly around her run, her outermost toe barely attached to her foot. Kara had searched for jagged fencing, rough rocks, anything that could have damaged Harriet’s toe … and had come up empty.  

“Will I have to euthanize her?” she asked.  

Fortunately for both Harriet and Kara, euthanasia was not only unnecessary but not even an option. I had been in this exact situation years ago with my Marans hen, Nestle. Like Kara, I had no idea what had caused Nestle’s toe to get crunched. With my background in emergency medical services, however, I was able to treat my girl.

I was therefore able to coach Kara through what she needed to do to help Harriet: chicken toe amputation.  

Gather Your Supplies 

Decide where you will be treating your chicken. A clean, well-lit surface in your basement, laundry room, or workroom works best.

Drape the surface with a clean, soft towel and have a receptacle for medical waste standing by. Rubbing alcohol, cotton balls, sterile gauze, medical-grade adhesive tape, a veterinary antiseptic/sealant such as Blu-Kote, and an antibacterial ointment are necessary supplies. So is a sharp, sterilized pair of snips.

Veterinary wrap is optional, but should be considered if your chicken run is dusty or muddy.

Have styptic powder or corn starch standing by in case of bleeding. You will also need an extra set of hands, preferably ones accustomed to handling chickens, and a clean tote or large carton with fresh shavings, feed and water.  

chicken toes injury amputate
Ana Hotaling

Treating Your Bird 

It’s best to operate on your bird early in the morning, before she has a chance to fill her crop. This way, there is less chance of regurgitation while she is on her back.

Gently place her, belly up, on your prepared surface. Have your assistant stand on the opposite side of the table. From here, they can hold your chicken in place, one hand on either side of her rib cage and, if possible, they can stroke your bird’s belly to calm her down.

Disinfect the skin around the chicken toe using the alcohol and cotton balls, then wipe down the blades of the snips as well. Proceed by firmly cutting the toe off at the point of least connectivity to the rest of the foot. Depending on the state of the chicken toe, there may be little to no bleeding. If bleeding persists, dip the site in styptic powder or corn starch.  

Once any bleeding has been contained, seal the wound with the veterinary antiseptic/sealant. Apply a thin layer of antibiotic ointment to a small section of gauze, then apply the treated gauze to the surgical site, wrapping the rest of the gauze securely around the bird’s foot and securing it in place with medical adhesive tape. Cover this with the veterinary wrap if desired.

The wraps should be snug but not tight. You don’t want to restrict circulation.   

chicken toes injury amputate
Ana Hotaling

Post Surgery 

Place your patient inside the recovery tote to eat and drink immediately after surgery. This everyday activity will comfort her and put her at ease. She may settle down and snooze after she eats. She may choose not to eat immediately. Keep an eye on her throughout the day.

Once she has eaten, drank and pooped, re-evaluate her. Take her out of the tote and see how she handles moving. She will still favor her uninjured foot but should be able to walk. If she seems energetic, put her back with her flock. It’s also okay to keep her separated from the others overnight.  

It will take a few weeks for your bird to completely heal. Change the dressings frequently and give your chicken plenty of TLC. Without a toe, your chicken may not be able to perch any longer, so be prepared to make a nestbox or section of the coop floor cozy for her.

She should, however, be able to roam, scratch and otherwise do everything the rest of her flock does.  

 Kara reported back recently that operating on Harriet was one of the most nerve-wracking things she had ever done. Harriet recovered swiftly and, while she sleeps in one of her coop’s nestboxes now, her antics are exactly as they were prior to her injury … which is a far cry better than the considered alternative.  

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Flock Talk Poultry

Shutterclucks: Chickens Editors Choose Reader Photos

The editors of Chickens magazine are always on the lookout for great chicken photos, and in the May/June 2023 print issue they ran a contest titled Shutterclucks.

Above is the winning photo submitted by Maris Schiess of Indianapolis, Indiana, and below you’ll find others chosen and printed in Chickens. Each one includes the name and city of residence of the chicken lover (or lovers) who submitted it.


Trina Rookus | Wilmington, North Carolina

shutterclucks


Samantha Cooper | Newbury, New Hampshire

shutterclucks


Dana M. Arvidson | Whitleyville, Tennessee


Missy Zombor | Milwaukee, Wisconsin


Karen Brunsting | Burlington, Michigan


Lyndsey Rhodes | Altamont, New York

shutterclucks


Mayra Garcia | Ennis, Texas


Stacey Myrick | Pensacola, Florida

Got a cool clucker you want to show off? Email us an image of your chicken(s) to chickens@chickensmagazine.com with the subject line Shutterclucks, and include your name and mailing address. The winner will receive a prize from one of our sponsors!

This article originally appeared in the May/June 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Health & Nutrition Homesteading Poultry

Supplement With Chicken Scratch For Additional Benefits

Standing at the “snack bar” in a local urban feed-supply store looking at an assortment of specialty grains might leave you scratching your head. Which are best for your hens? How much should you offer to your flock on any given day? And what mixture is nutritionally sound?

Chickens scratch the ground every day searching for seeds, insects and other tasty treats. Offering them scratch grains, such as cracked, rolled or whole grains (corn, barley, oats or wheat), stimulates that behavior while providing them with added food resources. Scratches are a source of mental and physical stimulation—particularly during the winter months when weather conditions reduce the presence of natural treats such as insects, grass and seeds.

Understanding the content of chicken scratch mixes can help you determine what to choose from the buffet at your local feed-supply store.

A word of caution: Chicken scratch grains are not meant to be the primary source of nutrition for your flock. Think of scratch as a limited treat—something hens enjoy but should not consume in large quantities. Feed mixes are nutritionally balanced resources your hens need for healthy living. They contain nutritional elements including calcium and protein that support growth and egg production. Chickens need those resources much more than tasty scratch offerings that they will inevitably enthusiastically eat.

Diet Matters

According to Laura Harper, owner of The Urban Chicken store in Raleigh, North Carolina, the average hen eats about a 1⁄4 pound of food a day. Scratch should make up only about 10 percent of that. Any more than that will affect their nutrient balance.

“Scratch is so low in protein that it doesn’t support hen health,” Harper says. 

As with humans, too much of a good thing isn’t necessarily a good thing.

Robert Litt, former owner of the Urban Farm Store in Portland, Oregon, says chickens eat for energy. If you provide cracked corn with unfettered access alongside layer feed, they will eat all their calories in corn. And corn offers only 7 percent protein while prepared chicken feeds offer 16 percent protein with corn in the mix.

Chickens that consume too much scratch can experience extended molts because of the low amount of necessary protein. A lack of nutritional balance can also affect egg production and cause birds to become unhealthily overweight. When hens choose between their regular feed and scratch, the feed lingers untouched in feeders, attracting mice and rats to your run.

With nutritional needs in mind, Litt and Harper educate people about the use and offering of scratches. Scratches should not be the only source of food a small flock receives. Scratches are always treats, and understanding their content can improve the health of your birds.

chicken chickens scratch
norrie39/Adobe Stock

Cold-Season Scratch

During winter months, cracked corn is a good addition to any scratch recipe. Cracked corn is a high-energy carbohydrate made of starch and sugars. Chickens love it. Fed before dusk on cold days, the corn provides a thermic effect creating heat as it’s digested.

This helps hens stay warm on long winter nights.

Scratches can also help bored hens during the wintertime. Cold months often limit hen activity levels, keeping them inside the coop and more sedentary than during other seasons. During these times, flocks become more disruptive, pecking at one another when boredom sets in. Scratch provides mental and physical stimulation for a small flock.

“During the winter, I suggest that people offer scratch in the form of a flock block or in a toy that makes the girls work harder for the food,” Harper says. 

Toys that require the hens to work harder to obtain treats promote activity, fight boredom and keep hens busy. Rather than picking on one another, hens will puzzle out how to get their favorite treats.


Read more: Help your chickens though cold weather with these tips.


Summer Scratch

During the hot days of summer, eliminate corn from scratch. Because corn stimulates metabolism, it can cause heat-related stress for birds. The summer is a time to add alternatives that provide nutrition, such as calcium and protein.

“Summer scratch can contain whole oats to help with heat stress,” Harper says. 

It, along with dried soldier fly larva (which adds calcium), is an excellent resource during the peak egg production days of summer. Harper sees people mixing their own summer scratch blends by including flax seed and raisins along with the whole oats.

Hens that have some free-range time in a backyard each day gain the benefits of nature’s own scratch: new grass, insects, seeds, weeds and more. These fresh local foods are great for flock health because hens must work hard to find them.

chicken chickens scratch
Kalypso/Adobe Stock

Mix & Match

Litt and Harper offer their own special blends of premixed, seasonally sensitive scratches. Each shop owner also provides scratch bars with resources for customers to make their own blends.

Harper suggests a wide range of ingredients when blending your own. She uses mealworms, dried soldier fly larva, oats, barley, wheat, flax seed—high in omega-3 for egg laying—sunflower seeds, raisins, kelp and a vitamin/mineral supplement.

Harper also suggests making grit available on a free-feed basis.

Scratch Cautions

Chickens can—like humans—become addicted to their favorite scratch food items. Litt says that these hens become pushy, grumpy and demanding, expecting and choosing available scratch over the feed they need for a balanced diet.

Employ a tough-love approach. Give hens limited access to scratches, with their health and well-being in mind. Too much chicken scratch can cause health problems including weight gain, longer molts and summer doldrums in egg production.

Litt and his wife, Hannah, work to find natural resources for hens that promote better health and egg production. The pair co-authored A Chicken in Every Yard (2011) and have researched the use of natural options for feed and scratches. For instance, Hannah Litt discovered that black cumin (nigella sativa) seeds could support egg production and size. 

The Litts offer it in a mash so that none of the tiny black seeds are wasted. Their interest includes energy for hens. For instance, amaranth is another chicken scratch ingredient that can add protein energy.

Robert Litt noted that people often offer hens kitchen scraps, such as pastas and bread. These too have low nutritional value because they don’t contain much protein. Small meat scraps are a good protein option.

Some people have begun growing their own chicken scratch. This includes raising fodder by sprouting seeds that are fresh and inviting. Litt suggests a windowsill fodder system. 

Chickens also like silage, fermented greens left from the summer season. Silage offers helpful probiotics that are partially digested and enable chicken keepers to offer greens throughout the winter.

Overall, scratches offer benefits in moderation. Just like us, hens need care and attention when it comes to choosing a diet. Seasonal offerings can help your hens have successful molts in the fall and winter and begin the spring and summer season with good egg production. Experiment with creating your own scratches by observing what your hens do and don’t prefer. 


More Information

Scratch Advice

Here is what Jacquie Jacob, poultry extension project manager at the University of Kentucky, says about chicken scratch, in “Feeding Chickens for Egg Production.”

“Scratch grains are like French fries; chickens that eat too many scratch grains have less of an appetite for more nutritious feed. If you are using scratch grains, feed them to chickens in the afternoon after birds have eaten complete feed, and then provide only as much scratch grains as chickens can finish in 15 to 20 minutes.”

This article originally appeared in the May/June 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Equipment Farm & Garden

A Three-Way Hitch Adapter Saves Time & Effort

Sometimes, the key to solving a problem is learning that a solution exists. If you’re not aware there’s a solution, it’s easy to waste time and effort with workarounds that don’t address the root problem.

Let me give you an example. Throughout the spring, summer, and fall, you can find me driving around my farm on a garden tractor, towing carts and wagons of various sizes. The largest one (which I affectionately call my “red wagon” even though it’s technically a cart) mounts to my tractor with a 1 7/8-inch hitch ball. The others attach with clevis fasteners.


Read more: Check out our simple guide to yard carts.


The Problem

The hitch ball installs at the back of my tractor in the hole used by clevis fasteners for the clevis pin. This means that when the hitch ball is installed, I can’t attach carts with clevis fasteners. And when the hitch ball is removed, I can’t use my red wagon.

The Workaround

I spend a surprising amount of time removing and installing the hitch ball from my garden tractor to accommodate different carts. It’s not a big deal, but it does require that I fetch a wrench and wrestle off the nut holding the hitch ball in place. I’ve lost nuts off hitch balls in the past, so I try to install them tightly.

Removing or installing a hitch ball can take several minutes, and when performed repeatedly over the summer, it adds up to a fair amount of lost time and productivity.


Read more: Tiny time savings really do add up around the farm.


The Solution

A three-way hitch adapter that allows me to install a hitch ball while still leaving an open hole for clevis fasteners solves this problem. I wasn’t specifically searching for this solution, but a relative of mine came across one of these hitch adapters and brought it to me, wondering if I would find it useful.

When I realized what it was, a lightbulb went on in my head. I couldn’t believe I had never thought to shop for one before.

The three-way hitch adapter is basically a metal plate that installs between the ball of the hitch ball and the frame of the tractor. The plate extends a short distance away from the back of the tractor so that the hole for the clevis pin rides behind the hitch ball, safe from interference. For good measure, the hitch adapter features two other openings perfect for connecting chains and tow ropes.

After conducting a bit of research, it seems that many variations of this concept exist. They aren’t all metal plates for small machines like my garden tractor. There are larger two-way and three-way hitch adapters designed for use with the receiver hitch on an ATV, UTV or truck.

I’ve already installed the three-way hitch adapter on my garden tractor and am delighted at the time and effort it will save. No longer will I have to stop in the middle of a project because I forgot my hitch ball, or because I need to return to the garage and find a wrench for removing the hitch ball.

Now all my hitch needs are simultaneously accommodated thanks to a simple solution I wish I’d discovered sooner.

Categories
Beginning Farmers Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden

Mint Can Definitely Have A Place In The Garden

I’m going to share a secret with you … I grow mint in the ground. Gasp! I recently found out this is a very divisive statement. But I’ll invite you to look at the big picture before jumping to conclusions.

First off, I’ll invite you to consider this topic within a “my-garden-my-choice” frame of mind.

My Testa-Mint

I love experimenting in my garden, so I planted a clump of mint dug up from my parents’ place into our “chicken yard” maybe eight years ago. The chickens kept it in check as they munched and scratched around it. And I used that patch of mint mostly for their bedding.

A few years ago though, we expanded the vegetable garden into that space. I half-heartedly dug up the roots, knowing full well I’d never get them all. We decided to plant a hügelkultur bed full of strawberries right over a part of it.

The mint lives on right with the strawberries and I’m far from worried about eliminating it. Plus, my chances are about as good as eliminating creeping Charlie. So far, the strawberries are holding their own, as long as I manage it.


Read more: Forage wild strawberries for a springtime treat.


Embracing Mint

I’m choosing to embrace the mint instead of fight it. For me this looks like:

  • I get to harvest a ton of mint all summer  for infused mint water. Plus, I can dry tons of mint for winter herbal teas.
  • I spend a few extra minutes every week pulling up plants from my pathways.
  • I spend an hour or so two to three times a year pulling mint roots from my garden beds.
  • I pay attention to the strawberry plants that my mint coexists with.
  • I use extra mint in my chicken coop bedding.

Read more: Mint is seriously cool!


I know this way of gardening isn’t for everyone, or for every garden space either. But in some spaces and some gardeners, it’s a match made in heaven. 

I’m embracing the chance to pay attention and try to help the plants find a balance so they can coexist peacefully.

Mint does a wonderful job at coexisting with raspberries and blackberries, as it grows in dry shade where other plants really struggle. And a few of my friends actually grow it in the ground as a ground cover of sorts. They prefer it to clover and grass.

Now, one place I would not plant mint is near (like anywhere near) your compost pile. You don’t want those roots getting mixed in and spreading them all over your garden!

I’d just hate for you not to experience the joy of mint—or bee balm, lily of the valley or other aggressive spreaders—just because you’re afraid. 

Sure, plant mint in a pot, and sink it to help overwinter. But grow new plants and learn from them.

I’m in a relationship with my garden. There’s give and take to this gardening world, and that’s the beauty.

So, dare I ask … do you grow mint in the ground?

By Michelle Bruhn
Forks in the Dirt

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Large Animals

Keep An Eye Out For Lameness In Your Sheep

As a sheep owner, it’s not uncommon to encounter the occasional limping member of your flock. Lameness in sheep can be caused by various diseases or issues with their hooves. Understanding and addressing these problems promptly is really essential for maintaining the overall health and well-being of your entire flock. 

Identify the Issue 

When you notice a sheep limping, it’s crucial to separate it from the rest of the flock and conduct a thorough examination. Begin by assessing the state of the hoof. Is it overgrown? In some cases, simply trimming the hoof can solve the problem.

Additionally, consider the moisture level. Extended periods of wetness, especially after rainfall, can contribute to hoof problems. 

Foot Rot & Foot Scald 

Foot rot and foot scald are two common hoof conditions that affect sheep. Warmth, mud and poor sanitation create an environment that can cause these diseases.

Foot rot is characterized by inflamed, red skin between the toes; a foul odor; and detachment of the hoof wall from the horn. Foot scald, on the other hand, is a more benign condition with redness between the toes without more severe symptoms. 

For both foot rot and foot scald, you can try similar treatment. A 10 percent zinc sulfate solution can be used as a footbath, in which the sheep are stood for up to 15 minutes every five to seven days. Copper sulfate is another alternative for footbaths. Additionally, I’ve used products like Hoof ‘N Heel and found it effective in treating hoof rot and scald.  


Read more: Have questions about trimming your sheep’s hooves? We have answers here!


Importance of Trimming 

Regular hoof trimming is a simple—yet vital—practice in maintaining healthy hooves for your sheep. By inspecting and trimming hooves on a routine basis, you can prevent potential issues from coming up.

For instance, I’ve had a ewe come up limping and a simple stick lodged between the toes of her overgrown hoof was the cause. A sharp hoof trimmer, readily available at farm supply stores, is the primary tool you need for this task.

By taking the time to trim and clean hooves, you can alleviate discomfort and restore mobility to your sheep. 

Prevention Is Key 

In addition to proper hoof care, ensuring good nutrition and maintaining clean and dry living conditions for your sheep really contributes to hoof health. Providing a well-balanced diet that meets their nutritional requirements helps strengthen their immune system and promotes overall well-being.

Don’t forget to regularly inspect your pasture, barn or paddock for dampness. Cleaning any soiled areas can help prevent the development and spread of hoof-related diseases. 


Read more: When (and how) should you give your sheep a hoof trim?


When All Else Fails, Call the Vet 

Proactive measures and basic treatments can address many hoof issues … but it’s important not to ignore persistent or severe cases of lameness. If you can’t identify the cause or if the problem persists despite your efforts, don’t hesitate to contact a veterinarian.

Vets have the expertise and experience to diagnose and treat more complex hoof conditions and can help identify any underlying health issues within your flock. 

Lameness in sheep is a common problem that requires prompt attention. By understanding the common hoof conditions, doing regular hoof trimming, and maintaining suitable living conditions, you can keep your flock healthy and mobile. Remember, the well-being of your sheep depends on your vigilance. By prioritizing hoof health, you’re ensuring the overall vitality and productivity of your entire flock. 

Categories
Farm & Garden Food Recipes

Check Out This Delicious Vegan Avocado Crema Recipe!

Over the last decade, we have learned about many food allergies and intolerances that our family (and extended family) members have. It can become a bit of a challenge to accommodate everyone for dinner when one person can’t eat gluten, another can’t have pork or beef, another can’t have eggs or dairy, one has a nut allergy, and the other a seafood allergy, and so on.

(This is actually my family. And this isn’t the complete list.)  

When I learned of Easy Allergy Free Cooking by Kayla Cappiello I was ecstatic. Through her own personal journey, while navigating her own health issues with celiac disease and lactose intolerance, as well as having a nut allergy, she’s learned what works and doesn’t work for her. She’s now written a cookbook full of recipes that were created with consideration of many of the most common dietary restrictions, while still providing delicious comfort foods for you and your family to enjoy.  

Avocado Crema

In Kayla’s book. she has a chapter called, “Life-Changing Dressings and Condiments.” I’m such a sauce gal—I’m all about the incorporation of various aiolis, dipping sauces and other condiments that generally enhance my food.

So naturally, I decided to try the recipe for Vegan Avocado Crema. Yum!

Now, if you are lucky enough to not have any food allergies in your family—great. This is still a recipe worth making. We enjoyed the crema with fish tacos, but you could dollop spoonfuls of this crema over enchiladas, burrito bowls, tacos, nachos or, really, whatever you’d like. 


Read more: Dress yourself with these tasty homemade dressing recipes!


Yield: 1/2 cup 

Gluten-free, nut-free 

Ingredients

  • 1/2 avocado 
  • 1 tsp garlic powder 
  • 1/2 tsp salt 
  • 1/2 tsp pepper 
  • 1/4 cup yogurt (see below for vegan option)

Instructions 

In a bowl, add the avocado, garlic, salt, pepper and yogurt. Mix together until fully blended and smooth. It’s OK to use a food processor, if needed.

Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 5 days. 

Options

  • Dairy-free option: Use dairy-free yogurt 
  • Low-fat option: Use fat-free or light sour cream 
  • Vegan option: Use vegan green yogurt  

Notes 

I added the juice of half of a lime and added in a bit of cilantro when I made this recipe. Feel free to tweak it to your liking.  

This recipe was shared from Easy Allergy Free Cooking by Kayla Cappiello with permission of Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.