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Animals Chicken Coops & Housing Farm & Garden Flock Talk Poultry

Snakes Alive! Get To Know Common Farm Serpents

My son Jaeson and I were out a couple of mornings ago, doing the daily farm chores. While I checked and reset our live traps, Jaeson went to fill the chicken and duck waterers. Suddenly, I heard a startled “Oh!” Looking up, I saw Jaeson, waterer in hand, standing statue still and staring at the ground. 

“What is it?” I called out.

“There’s a snake here,” he told me.

“Is it a garter snake?” I asked, assuming it was one of the little yard snakes common to our farm. 

Jaeson didn’t take his gaze off the ground. “Noooooo … it’s a big fat snake and it’s reared its head up at me and is really mad.”

I immediately stopped what I was doing and dashed across the grass to the run fence and peeked in. Sure enough, a dark snake with a white underbelly was reared up, cobra style, about half a foot off the ground, continually flicking its tongue at Jaeson, who stood perhaps three feet away.

“I didn’t even see it was a snake,” Jaeson told me. “I thought someone had left the garden hose in here.” 

I walked down the fence line to come even with the snake and gasped. It was at least another two feet longer, thicker than a garden hose, and its tail was upright and vibrating swiftly back and forth in a blur. Rattler, I thought. The coloration didn’t match our state’s sole rattlesnake, the shy Massasauga, but that tail convinced me Jaeson was in peril.

I had him slowly back away. The snake remained in its defensive posture. 

Once he was clear, we discussed our immediate options. With the snake just two feet from the coop’s pop door, we decided against releasing the birds, since we’d have to approach the angry serpent.

We decided to save this coop for the last/ I stood guard and watched the snake while Jaeson dealt with the other henhouses. Just as he returned, the snake took off at incredible speed, heading for the front of the run.

We dashed out of the way and lost total track of where he went, which resulted in us standing still and craning our necks every which way for a few minutes until Jaeson spotted him … under the duck shelter where the feed bowl was. 

Of course.

Jaeson let the ducks out, and fortunately they headed straight for their pool. This gave us the opportunity to fill their waterer and put it back in place. Our slithery friend, however, was not moving from the shade of the shelter.

Using a spare fence post, I retrieved the food bowl, which Jaeson filled. “Now what?” he asked. The ducks weren’t particularly smart. They wouldn’t know to look for their food in another part of the run. In addition, we were expecting rain and didn’t want the food to get ruined by the expected precipitation.

I finally made the decision to put the bowl back under the feeder and hope for the best. I started to carefully push the bowl in with the fence post, when suddenly the snake dropped down. I knew that position full well: I’d covered the Caro, Georgia Rattlesnake Roundup for the New York Post years ago and recognized that the snake was about to strike.

And he did, with lightning speed. I backed off and the bowl sustained no damage.

I waited a few minutes, then retrieved the bowl swiftly. I plunked it on a flat space at the opposite end of the run, pointed at it so the ducks might possibly figure the new location out, and returned to the shelter.

But the snake was once again on the move, and in a blink of an eye he was almost at the stairs leading up to the kitchen sliding glass door. He took a quick turn, went past our chicken tractor, and then settled himself down in the shade beneath my husband’s garden tractor. 

Well, crisis temporarily averted.

Snake Identification

Once back inside, I sent the photos of the snake to Dr. Michael Hoffman, an Army veterinarian who specialized in zoology, especially reptiles. I also sent the images to my father-in-law, who had been the chief naturalist at one of our state’s metroparks. Dr. Hoffman replied first.

“Blue racer!” he texted. “They’re endangered. Good to see one return. Non venomous and safe to us.” My father-in-law confirmed Dr. Hoffman’s identification, noting that the blue racer has become increasingly endangered in recent years and have all but disappeared from our area of Michigan.

Common Non-Venomous Field Snakes

Garter Snake

The most common snake throughout the U.S. is the garter snake. More than 20 subspecies of garter snake, genus Thamnophis, exist in the United States and Canada. Garter snakes are very abundant in residential areas because humans create gardens, swimming pools, ponds and other structures where garter snakes thrive.

In fact, garters are often called garden snakes because they can be found slithering through gardens and basking in the sun in flat spots. Garters are very slender, are typically green with yellow side stripes, and can range from 18 inches to 3 feet in length.

Brown Snake

Found throughout the U.S., Canada, and Mexico, the brown snake (Storeria dekayi) favors open prairies, grasslands, agricultural areas and urban/suburban residential zones. Ranging in color from beige to brown, with a creamy white to pink underbelly, the tiny brown snake ranges in size from 9 inches to just under 2 feet, with 15 inches being the common adult size.

Brown snakes are shy and tend to avoid human interaction, spending their days inside rodent burrows, inside anthills or under log piles.

Corn Snake

The corn snake (Pantherophis guttatus) is an Eastern United States snake seen commonly in fields, meadows, forest clearings and outbuildings such as garden sheds, barns, greenhouses, and yes, even coops. Sometimes called a red rat snake, the corn snake is so named because of the Indian corn-type pattern of its scales and possibly because it tends to hang around corn silos, waiting for rodents.

Corn snakes are a very popular pet snake, second only to the ball python. It is a very gentle snake that is content to be held by its owner. And, just like chicken breeders, many snake fanciers breed corn snakes to produce a specific color or pattern variation, such as candy cane, sunglow, caramel and lavender.

Like the garter snake, the corn snake is slender. It can range in length from 2 feet to 6 feet in length.

Black Racer

The black racer (Coluber contrictor) can be found in the grasslands, meadows, farms, fields and roadsides of the contiguous 48 states as well as in Canada and Mexico. Many states consider the black racer a species of “importance,” as its numbers are steadily declining due to the loss of its habitat.

This non-venomous black snake ranges in length from 4 feet to 6.5 feet. Despite its namesake speed—it can reach 8 to 10 miles per hour—black racer snakes often falls victim to mowing and other farm operations, as well as vehicular traffic. Its cousin is the aforementioned, endangered blue racer (Coluber constrictor foxii).


Read more: Check out these tips for identifying a shed snakeskin.


Common Venomous Field Snakes

The U.S. is home to four types of venomous snakes: rattlesnakes, copperheads, cottonmouths and coral snakes. While copperheads, cottonmouths and coral snakes prefer swampy, marshy, watery habitats and deep forests in the Eastern (copperheads), Southeastern (cottonmouths) and Southern (corals) U.S., rattlesnakes make their home in almost every kind of American habitat, including mountains, deserts, beaches, grasslands and meadows. 

Rattlesnakes

Rattlesnakes are extremely specialized predators. They have specialized organs located on the roof of their mouth that enhance their sense of smell. Their flickering tongues actually deposit scent particles on these organs, allowing them to use scent to detect prey. As pit vipers, rattlesnakes have heat-sensing pits near their eyes, which help them see their prey’s heat signature.

These specializations allow rattlers to hunt effectively in total darkness. Rattlesnakes strike their prey swiftly from a coiled position. When startled—usually by larger predatory mammals like coyotes, bobcats and wolves—rattlesnakes rear up defensively and vibrate the rattle located at the tip of their tail as a warning to back off.

According to the Centers for Disease Control, approximately 8,000 people are bitten by venomous snakes each year in the U.S., of which 75 percent are rattlesnake bites.

Contrary to popular belief, rattlesnakes do not consider humans prey and do not actively seek people out. The majority of rattlesnake-bite victims either accidentally stumbled across a rattler or for some reason decided to try to handle one. 

The rattlesnake’s chief prey, like its non-venomous kin, are rodents. Because of this, the National Wildlife Foundation notes that the rattlesnake plays an important role in its ecosystem.

However, since mice, rats, voles and other opportunistic rodents tend to gravitate towards chicken coops, so will rattlesnakes, which unfortunately increases the risk of your accidentally coming across one. Rattlesnakes will also eat chicken eggs by swallowing the eggs whole, then regurgitating the inedible egg shells. Chicks are fair game for rattlers, as are smaller bantams such as Old English Games, Mille Fleurs and Dutch Booted Bantams.

Should you come across a dead chicken with a wet head, you can assume it was killed by a rattlesnake that gave up devouring your bird when it wouldn’t fit down the snake’s throat. 

Snakes as Farm Benefactors

Should your farm be inhabited by non-venomous snakes such as garters, browns, corn snakes and racers, your best course of action is to welcome them as a partner in pest prevention. The corn snakes, racers and garters will decimate the local mouse, vole and small rat populations around your farm. The brown snakes (and the garters) will feast on pesky summer beetles, slugs, grubs, worms and other insects that wreck your farm produce, too.

Many herpetologists (reptile scientists) and state natural resource departments consider these snakes beneficial, since their chief diets consist of destructive rodents and insects, and urge homeowners not to kill them. Dr. Hoffman informed us that our blue racer would eat the field mice as well as the frogs and insects that tend to damage gardens.

“That blue racer is a keeper,” he texted. “You want to have him around.”

Erring on the Side of Safety

Still, it never hurts to take precautionary measures, especially if you have rattlesnakes in your region. Rear your large-fowl baby chicks in an elevated, covered brooder inside your basement or garage until they are fully feathered and about 12 to 14 weeks of age—in other words, too large to be considered prey by these snakes.

Keeping snakes out of your runs may prove difficult, as they can squeeze through 1/2-inch mesh fencing. The browns can fit through even smaller openings. A rule of thumb to remember is that if a mouse can get in, so can a snake.

In addition, corn snakes and rattlesnakes are adept at climbing and may enter your coop through the pop-door opening or a gap in the nest-box lid in search of eggs should there be a dearth of mice and insects. A frequent egg-collection routine can help curtail any potential egg loss.

Another way to deter snakes from the runs around your farm is to keep the areas around your coops well mowed, depriving these field-loving serpents of their favorite grassy habitats. Consider planting pungent herbs such as rosemary, thyme, garlic and chives around your run, as their strong fragrances can repel the scent-hunting rattlesnake.

If your chickens free range on your farm, be aware that it’s the snakes that will most likely be at risk, as foraging breeds such as Orpingtons, Wyandottes and Australorps will gleefully go after—and messily devour—garters and browns. I have witnessed this many times over the years. Poor snakes. 

This morning, Jaeson cheerfully reported that he saw the blue racer near our pole barn, otherwise known as field mouse and chipmunk central. I am more than happy to host this endangered snake there and let him eat all the rodents he desires. I haven’t seen a corn snake in years, and I’ve never encountered a black racer. But we do have massasaugas, and I’m more than willing to let this shy rattlesnake join his speedy blue cousin in their quest for pests. 

Categories
Beginning Farmers Farm & Garden

Explore The Anchoring, Therapeutic Power Of Cedar Path Farm

When Jodi Briggs Gabriel from Cedar Path Farm considers what attracted her to the idea of running a farm, she picks out a quote to sum up the calling: “I wasn’t born on the farm, but I got here as soon as I could.”

Situated in Summerfield, North Carolina, Cedar Path Farm occupies three acres of land that took Gabriel and her husband a couple of years to source. “I’ve never felt so connected to my home and land as I do now,” says Gabriel. “The wind in the trees, the animal noises, the space, the feel of their feathers and fur, the look in their eyes, the smell of flowers and herbs. It is anchoring, calming and therapeutic.”

We spoke to Gabriel about experimenting with sunflowers and repurposing jars into vases. We also got the scoop on hosting vintage tea parties.

Focusing on Flowers

 

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As Cedar Path Farm has progressed, Gabriel has increasingly focused on nurturing flowers on her land.

“Growing flowers has been extra gratifying because they automatically make people smile,” she says. “They steal you away for a few moments from your worries and heal you with their colors, scent and glow in the sunshine. Growing flowers and creating bouquets is a way for me to share that and the magic of farm life with others.”


Read more: Plant these summer flowers around your farm!


Spotlight on Dahlias, Zinnias & Sunflowers

 

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Casting her eye over the farm, Gabriel says that dahlias and zinnias are the blooms she’s most excited about this year. “They are so happy,” she says. “The arrangement of their petals are stunning and make for lovely statement flowers in arrangements. It amazes me how tall they get!”

Gabriel adds that she’s also toying with sunflowers this year. “They are a flower that stops you in your tracks! I like that they seem to be a symbol of the country and farm life.”

The Farm’s Most Popular Flowers

 

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Asked about the most popular flowers that Cedar Path Farm produces, Gabriel says that gladiolus and sunflowers seem to strike a chord with the public and passersby.

“I think people are drawn to them because of their size and gorgeous bright colors,” she explains. “I think that pulls them back into happy memories and brings them peace. They are also wonderful gifts, and I know people enjoy sharing that feeling with others.”


Read more: U-pick farms can be successful income opportunities for small farms.


Recycling Jars Into Vases

 

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When it comes to presenting flowers, Gabriel is a big advocate of repurposing glass jars into vases. “My family and friends enjoy saving pretty jars from meals they cook,” she says. “It’s a lot of fun to build the perfect bouquet in these jars, and it seems to turn them into little treasures.”

Host a Vintage Tea Party!

 

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When not tending to her blooms, Gabriel enjoys taking time to host vintage tea parties for family and friends. The concept of the gatherings involves serving up “tiny cakes and sandwiches” in a bid to enjoy and appreciate “the little things” that life can offer.

“It’s relaxing to chat about the beautiful patterns on the porcelain and beautiful flowers in the centerpieces,” says Gabriel. “[Just] pausing to smell the spice of a tea or compare the flavor notes of a cookie is a simple and needed escape from busy life. I feel like the farm offers lovely scenery for such an event. It’s no wonder this tradition was passed down from so long ago!”

Building on the intimate occasions, Gabriel says she has plans to slowly expand the concept of hosting vintage tea parties to involve the wider community. “I’m hoping to offer several seating areas that can be reserved around the farm,” she says. “The tea party would include tea service, a tower of treats and a beautiful farm fresh flower bouquet to take home.”

Follow Cedar Path Farm on Instagram.

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Health & Nutrition Poultry

Ferment Your Chicken Feed For Numerous Flock Benefits

Imagine someone comes to your door selling a brand-new chicken feed they developed. This feed, they explain, is loaded with vitamins, minerals and immune-boosting probiotics that lead to vibrant, healthy birds. Because the chickens have access to better nutrition, they eat less, which in turn saves you money. 

At this point, you might be rolling your eyes and inching the door closed. But, wait, there’s more!

This salesperson goes on to say that because your chickens digest this new feed more effectively, they produce fewer and much drier droppings. So, you save time on coop cleanup every week. Switching to this new feed, they claim, will even help your chickens lay more eggs. And, those eggs are better quality, with thicker shells and more nutrients. 

You’re now ready to close the door on this snake-oil salesman because—after all—what kind of feed could do all that? 

But this magical feed is already sitting out in your barn—no salesman needed. All you have to do to give your flock all these benefits is to ferment your chicken feed.

Fermentation is the same technique used to make wine, beer and sauerkraut. You can ferment chicken feed the same way your local brewery creates your favorite brew and give your flock an impressively long list of health benefits in the meantime.

I do a lot of fermenting on my homestead. My family makes our own probiotic-rich kombucha, sourdough, kimchi, sauerkraut and jars of mixed pickles. More importantly, our flock gets plenty of probiotics, because I ferment their chicken feed, as well.

Fermenting chicken feed might sound a bit strange to some folks. But this is one chicken health strategy that reaps far more benefits than the time and work involved to make it happen.

Fermentation Explained 

Humans have been using fermentation to preserve foods for thousands of years. Evidence suggests Neolithic people practiced fermentation by making cheese more than 7,500 years ago. 

Fermentation occurs when natural yeasts and cultures in the air are encouraged to grow and interact with a food source (in this case, chicken feed) under specific conditions. During fermentation, beneficial microorganisms such as the Lactobacillus bulgaricus bacteria break down sugars and starches and turn them into lactic acid. This promotes the development of healthy probiotics, changes the taste of the food, lowers the pH and aids in preservation by killing off harmful microorganisms.

It also changes the food’s nutritional profile for the better.


Read more: Your farm can feed your chickens a non-GMO diet.


Benefits of Fermented Feed

You can encourage these good bacteria to grow by soaking chicken feed in water for several days. But you’ve got roughly three dozen other chores to do. Why on earth would you want to take the time to do this? There are several good reasons why fermentation is worth the few extra minutes it will add to your chore list. 

Better Nutrient Absorption

When you soak grains, you soften them up and make it much easier for the chicken’s body to digest all the available nutrients. That’s common sense, right? But, if we peek under the surface we see there’s more to the story.

All grains, beans, seeds and legumes contain phytic acid, which impairs the absorption of some nutrients. In “Reduction of phytic acid and enhancement of bioavailable micronutrients in food grains” (Gupta RK et. al, Journal of Food Science and Technology, 2015), researchers called phytic acid a “food inhibitor” because it limits the bioavailability of nutrients.

If we remove the phytic acid in foods, we’re free to absorb all the wonderful nutrients found in whole grains and seeds. And the fermentation process removes phytic acid. This means when your chickens eat fermented feed, their bodies can utilize the full range of protein, vitamins and minerals that chickens on dry feed can’t. 

Moreover, the fermentation process actually enhances the nutrition of the feed. It adds B vitamins that weren’t in the feed before.

chicken feed ferment fermentation
Heather Levin
Stronger Immune System

In “Fermented feed for laying hens: Effects on egg production, egg quality, plumage condition and composition and activity of the intestinal microflora” (Engberg et. al, British Poultry Science, 2009), researchers found that hens on fermented feed had a stronger immune system than the control group. The fermented feed increased acidification in the upper digestive tract, which helped form a natural barrier against acid-sensitive pathogens like E. coli, salmonella and campylobacter.

The process of fermentation also produces lactic acid, which helps promote the growth of healthy microbes called probiotics. A robust immune system can help your chickens fend off a variety of illnesses and diseases.

Less Waste in the Coop

Chickens that eat fermented feed produce less waste than chickens on dry feed. And the waste is drier than birds on a regular feed diet. For you, this could mean fewer coop cleanings throughout the year.

Higher Output & Better Quality Eggs

Fermenting feed for your flock may also result in better-quality eggs and improved health outcomes long-term.

That aforementioned study in British Poultry Science found that hens on fermented feed had heavier eggs with thicker shells. While this makes for a better breakfast, it also reduces losses from laying soft-shelled eggs. 

Additionally, “The Foothills Farm Fermented Feed Study” in 2019 conducted by Western Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education found that hens on a fermented feed diet laid 9 percent more eggs than hens on a regular feed diet. 

How to Ferment Your Chicken Feed

Fermenting chicken feed is simple, and it will only take a few minutes out of your day.

Materials Needed
  • large canning jar or bucket
  • mix of crumble, pellets, scratch, or whole grains and seeds like rye, quinoa, whole oats, sunflower seeds, barley, spelt, buckwheat, amaranth or sorghum.
  • dechlorinated water
  • cheesecloth or other loose covering for jar or bucket
Step 1: Measure

Your first step is to figure out how much your flock eats daily. Most full-sized adult birds eat around 1/2 cup of dry feed per day. For example, a flock of 10 chickens will eat around 5 cups of dry feed per day. You’ll cut this in half when calculating how much chicken feed to ferment for your flock. 

Measure out 1/4 cup of feed or grain mixture per bird, and place the seed in the jar or bucket you’re using. Using our example, if you have 10 chickens, you’ll need 2 1/2 cups of dry chicken feed or grains to ferment.

Only measure out enough grain to feed your chickens for one or two days. Fermented feed spoils quickly once it’s taken out of the soaking water.

Keep in mind that you can choose a variety of grains to ferment, or you can ferment just one grain at a time. You can also ferment crumble or pellet chicken feed. However, it will get quite mushy after a 3-day ferment. Your chickens will still love it, though!


Read more: You can ferment pig feed, too, to improve porcine gut health.


Step 2: Add Water & Soak

Fill the jar or bucket with enough water to completely cover the feed, along with a few extra inches so the feed has room in the water to expand. You don’t want to add too much water, though. While this won’t hurt the fermentation process, too much water can make it harder to spot the bubbles that show healthy fermentation is taking place.

If you have chlorinated tap water, let it sit out, uncovered, for 24 hours so the chlorine can evaporate. Chlorinated water can inhibit the growth of beneficial bacteria, so you don’t want to use it. You can also use filtered or distilled water.

Step 3: Cover & Let Ferment

Cover the jar or bucket with the loose cover of cheesecloth, or the loose-fitting lid. The cover helps prevent unwanted bacteria or mold spores from getting into the ferment yet allows the fermentation gasses to escape.

Store the fermentation at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, and away from cold drafts. The optimal temperature range for fermentation is 75 to 85 degrees F. So if your house is cool, keep the ferment in the warmest room.

Let the ferment sit for three days, stirring chicken feed from the bottom up at least three times per day. If the feed soaks up too much water, add enough back in so that the grains stay covered by at least 1 inch. Make sure the grain mixture is always submerged in water.

By the second day, you should start to see tiny bubbles in the jar. This is good news! It’s a sign that active fermentation is occurring. The ferment should smell tangy and clean, like sourdough bread or yogurt. The liquid will also start to get a bit milky looking.

Step 4: Drain & Feed

On the third day (72 hours after starting your ferment), pour off the excess water. If you’re about to start a new batch of ferment, however, save the water and use it to cover the fresh grains. It will speed up the fermentation of the next batch.

Feed the fermented grains to your flock immediately and refrigerate any unused feed for the next day.

chicken feed ferment fermentation
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Troubleshooting

Although it’s easy to get started with fermentation, things don’t always go as planned. Sometimes, due to temperature fluctuations or bacterial contamination, your ferment will fail and be unsuitable to feed to your chickens.

Sniff Check Daily

Healthy ferments should smell tangy and clean, like sourdough bread or plain yogurt. If the ferment starts to smell sulfurous, like rotten eggs, or acidic, like vomit, throw it out. An off odor is a sign that your ferment was exposed to too much oxygen or too much heat, or bacteria was introduced during the beginning of the ferment.

Check for Mold

You also need to check for mold daily. Any signs of pink, black or fuzzy mold on the surface means the entire batch needs to be thrown out.

If your ferment develops mold, it could be because the temperature was too cold (which slows the bacteria and prevents the fermentation from happening fast enough to stop mold from developing), there was not enough liquid in the jar or bucket, or the brewing container was contaminated. 


More Information

Money Savers

Use these tips to save money on feed costs. 

Free-Range

While everyone can’t do this, allowing your flock to free-range means they’ll supplement their diet with bugs and grass instead of commercial feed.

Provide Forage

If you can’t free-range your flock, provide forage in the run. Grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps, and pasture weeds will be a tasty addition for your birds and help reduce their feed intake.

Ask Around

Another option is to feed your flock less than perfect produce. Contact local farmers, or even talk to the produce manager at your grocery store, and ask if you can pick up damaged produce once a week. Just make sure the produce isn’t moldy or rotten.

Grow Your Own

Start a garden to supplement your chickens’ diet. Your flock will love feasting on fresh tomatoes and zucchini all summer long.

Control Rodents

Feeding your flock free-choice can lead to a major rodent infestation. Limit feed only to what your flock will eat in a day, and employ a barn cat to control mice and rats.

This article originally appeared in the May/June 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Podcast

Episode 55: Marykate Glenn & Lindsey Melling


Hobby Farms Presents: Growing Good podcast

Farmers Marykate Glenn and Lindsey Melling join Hobby Farms Presents: Growing Good to talk cooperative farming, sliding-scale CSAs, handcrafted herbal products and more.

Hear about Marykate’s and Lindsey’s individual backgrounds, how they each became farmers, and how they came together for collaborative farming under the Mustard Seed Farm CSA umbrella. Learn how they farm individual pieces of rented land and share equipment, distribution systems, support and knowledge. Lindsey and Marykate talk about how they found three pieces of land they’re renting for their operation—pay attention if you’re working on your own access to land! 

Have your sliding-scale CSA questions answered with Marykate’s explanation of Mustard Seed Farm’s program—from whether customers intentionally pay a lower price to how the sliding-scale math works out—and what she’s learned with 10 years of working with sliding-scale models. 

Lindsey closes out the conversation telling us about how her Effloresce Herbals business began using a healing salve she started making with chickweed she weeded from her garden beds. Listen to the end to get Lindsey’s recipes for a violet simple syrup and a soothing plantain skin salve.

LINKS:

Categories
Animals Chicken Coops & Housing Farm & Garden Poultry

This Cool Coop Teaches Environmental Responsibility!

An important part of our chicken-raising strategy is to reduce environmental impact. Our chickens live at Double Creek, a small school in Portland, Oregon. The children designed and built the coop and do most of the chicken care. They have come up with great ways to make our backyard flock sustainable.  

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle

When constructing our coop, we used reclaimed wood, scrap roofing, mis-mixed paint, and reused stepping stones and cinder blocks. If we hadn’t used these things, they would have ended up in the landfill.

We have taken to dumping our lawn clippings, leaves and other chicken-safe yard debris in their large run. It breaks down much faster and keeps the hens amused. We also supplement commercial bedding with shredded paper in their nesting boxes and coop. The older kids enjoy using the paper shredder and watching the paper turn back to soil. 

Our chicken feeder is a 5-gallon bucket which was previously restaurant packaging for human food. We give our chickens water with a watering system made of scraps of PVC pipe attached to another 5-gallon bucket. The chickens enthusiastically consume our fruit and vegetable scraps. They also provide great inspiration to get the kids weeding; the chickens love dandelions!


Read more: Chickens can bring big benefits to the garden!


Rich Fertilizer for the Garden

We regularly scoop out the coop and clean all the old bedding out of the small run every few months. The waste spends a year decomposing and then becomes rich fertilizer for our garden beds. The kids love planning and caring for our vegetable garden. They even plant chicken-friendly plants just outside the run to offer shade and give the chickens a tasty treat. 

Keeping chickens has been a great experience. The kids at our school have come up with many creative ways to reduce waste while spoiling our seven special birds. 

— Joy Geren, Beaverton, Oregon

This article originally appeared in the May/June 2023 issue of Chickens magazine as a “Cool Coop” feature. Have a cool coop you’d like to share? Email us a short write-up (~250 to 500 words) about your chicken coop along with a few images to chickens@chickensmagazine.com with the subject line One Cool Coop, and include your name and mailing address. Check out Chickens magazine for current prizes and contest rules.

Categories
Animals Chicken Coops & Housing Farm & Garden Health & Nutrition Poultry

Tips For Keeping Rodents Out Of The Chicken Coop

Mice and rats are more of a nuisance than a true threat to adult chickens. While they’re certainly capable of killing chicks, only a very large, very hungry and very motivated rodent will attempt to kill an adult chicken. Rodents tend to view the coop as a warm, dry shelter in which to make a nest, particularly if there is chicken feed to feast on nearby. To get rid of them, the first step is to not attract them. 

Eliminate Sources of Food & Water

To begin to eradicate rodents, stop providing a restaurant service in and around your coop. Remove feeders and waterers from your coop and runs at dusk, and clean up any spilled rations that might attract rodents.

Store your feed in tightly lidded metal containers. You can also use heavy-duty, lidded plastic totes, but you will need to inspect these regularly as rodents can chew through plastic.

If you give your flock kitchen scraps, clean anything left uneaten before dark or the rodents will find it. Do not leave pressed seed or suet cakes or other “boredom busters” in any area your chickens frequent, as these will attract rodents as well.

Similarly, don’t leave pet food or wild bird feeders outside overnight. The rodent’s keen sense of smell will quickly locate these.

If you store your household garbage outside, keep it inside your garage instead. Regardless of location, keep your trash secure by storing it in rodent-proof containers. If you have fruit trees, pick ripe fruit frequently and do not leave fallen fruit on the ground.

Collect your hens’ eggs daily to remove that source of food as well. Finally, do not leave sprinklers on at night as these become a source of water for rodents. Check your garden hoses for any leaks that might create standing water from which rats can drink.


Read more: Nip a pest problem in the bud with smart rat traps.


Weed Out Potential Nesting Materials & Hiding Places

While rodents may use their own fur to line their nests, they’ll happily utilize anything at hand.

Avoid using straw or lawn clippings in your chicken runs. Not only can rats hide in these, but they’ll carry it down to their nests as lining.

Keep your lawn mowed to eliminate tall grasses where rodents can hide, and be sure to trim or weed whack any plant that grows taller than 12 inches near your coop, your run fence and other buildings.

Dryer lint blown out of vents is another favorite, so make certain to regularly check these openings. If possible, close them off with quarter-inch hardware mesh.

Eliminate piles of junk on your property. Rodents love the hiding places clutter creates. Rats also frequently turn piles of firewood into dens, so keep your logs neatly stacked, at least 18 inches off the ground and well away from walls and fences.

If roof rats are a problem, trim any branches that overhang your coops and run or touch overhead wires or other trees. And prune back any ivy growing on the walls or branches that drape down to the ground.

Evicting Resident Rodents

All of these precautions will make your coop and property less inviting to rodents, but you still have to deal with the ones that are already in residence.

Snap traps are an effective countermeasure to a rat infestation. If you have identified burrow entrances or runways, set snap traps near these holes and heavily traveled areas.

Peanut butter, oatmeal and pet food can be used as bait, but we have had great success using chicken feed. Be certain that you do not set up the traps until your flock is locked up for the night and your pets are inside. A snap trap can seriously injure or even kill a curious animal.

Like other sources of food, remove the traps during the daytime, preferably before a chicken decides to investigate it.

Electronic traps are also highly effective. These usually run on batteries, lure a rat in via ultrasonics, then zap it once it is inside.

Somewhat less effective are glue boards, which are similar to fly paper except for rodents. These work well for mice, but the larger rat can wrest itself out of this sticky situation.


Read more: Evict rats from your chicken coop—and keep them out for good!


Set Colony Traps

Colony traps are multicatch traps, meaning they can hold more than one mouse at a time. The small metal boxes have an entrance hole on either end that contains a one-way door, meaning mice enter and can’t get out. The nice part about them is they’re on duty 24/7 without maintenance, except for removing trapped mice. Again, no bait is needed if placed against the wall in the normal travel route. All mice caught in a colony trap will be alive if you check them frequently, so you will need a plan for dealing with them. Mice are not at all wary of these devices and will enter them readily.

Colony traps are like small cages. Again, the rats will hesitate to enter them at first. My experience is once one finally goes in, they all go, but it might take days or even weeks.

Apply Rodenticides

Poisons are often a last resort for the chicken keeper and should be used with caution around your livestock or poultry. Always place poisons in containment boxes. In most areas, this is the only legal way to use them.

Make sure the boxes are locked in some manner. Many of them snap shut and require a tool to open, while others need to be locked with a screw or similar fastener. This will keep them from opening and exposing the contents to nontarget animals.

I prefer poison blocks over pellets, as the blocks can be fastened to the inside of the box and are more difficult for rodents to remove. Pellets can easily be removed from the boxes, which is hazardous to your flock.

When using any rodenticide, don’t continually use the same one over and over, as rodents will eventually build up an immunity to the chemicals. If a rodent snacks on a poison block and gets a bellyache and then recovers, it’s now immune to that particular cocktail, so change it up frequently. Also, keep the boxes maintained—don’t run out of poison—and keep them well-fed.

Be aware of secondary poisoning to domestic animals, such as cats and dogs, and in wildlife that might consume poisoned rodents. Secondary poisoning is rare, but it can happen. 


More Information

Rodent Disposal

Disposing of a rodent requires extra precautions, due to the diseases and parasites it carries on its fur and skin. Use disposable gloves to pick up the body, then double bag it in plastic bags and place it in your garbage bin.

Do not leave a rodent in a trap for long, as it will draw insects that can spread any diseases the rat carried. Also, the carcass can end up a source of food for other rats and any scavengers you have in the area.

This article originally appeared in the May/June 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Crops & Gardening Equipment Farm & Garden

Embrace Hand Tools On National Gardening Exercise Day

Did you know June 6 is National Gardening Exercise Day? It’s a day hobby farmers should be keen to celebrate.

We all know exercise is good for us, and gardening is an enjoyable way to approach it. You don’t necessarily have to turn gardening into the equivalent of a full-fledged workout regimen. Even just puttering among the beds, repeatedly squatting down and standing up to remove weeds and harvest veggies, is a beneficial exercise.

But even if you’re out in the garden every day, it’s worth pondering whether there are ways you can increase the amount of exercise you receive. For example, why let power tools and machines do all the hard work? I’m all for getting things done quickly and efficiently, and often machines are the best way to do that. But there are benefits to occasionally trading power tools and machines for old-fashioned hand tools.

Here are some ideas to get you started:

1. Use a string trimmer or hand-pushed reel mower around your garden.

A riding lawn mower is a must-have tool when mowing large yards, and I wouldn’t dream of caring for my farm without one. But they can be too large for use in and around a garden, where pathways between beds are often narrow. And using a riding lawn mower doesn’t require much in the way of exercise.

Fortunately, you can keep your garden looking tidy and simultaneously get a good workout by using other tools. A handheld string trimmer is one option. Maneuvering the trimming head between your beds, keeping it steady and elevated to just the right height, can be an excellent workout.

Or, if you prefer your garden time to be peaceful and serene, skip power tools entirely and opt for a hand-pushed reel mower. Reel mowers are excellent at cutting grass (provided the grass isn’t too long), and since hand-pushed models don’t have an engine, they’re quiet and pleasant to use. You can listen to music and podcasts or simply enjoy the sounds of the garden while tidying things up and getting good exercise.


Read more: A reel mower can bring numerous benefits to the small farm.


2. Skip the power tiller, use a garden fork.

Does the soil in your garden beds need to be broken up and turned over in preparation for planting? It’s tempting to reach for a gasoline or electric tiller and let the power of an engine or motor do most of the work, though truth be told guiding such a tool requires strength and exercise on your part.

But gasoline engines are noisy, and if you’d like to work in peace while getting even more of a workout, grab a garden fork and work the soil by hand. It’s not as fast or efficient, but you can enjoy pleasant conversations with fellow gardeners while you work. And the price of a garden fork is a lot lower than a power tiller.


Read more: Check out these 12 essential garden tools!


3. Forego soaker hoses in favor of watering manually.

Soaker hoses have their place in gardens, particularly if you’re pressed for time. When properly installed in level garden beds, soaker hoses can thoroughly water your plants without supervision beyond turning the water on and off.

But I find that watering manually—whether with watering cans in a small garden or with regular hoses and a spraying nozzle in a large garden—has its own benefits. In addition to the exercise you receive by traveling the garden to quench the thirst of every nook and cranny, watering manually ensures that you regularly lay eyes on every plant. You can watch for signs of pests and diseases, tend to plants that need extra care, and simply enjoy watching your garden grow from one day to the next.

National Gardening Exercise Day is technically a single day, but you can apply its lessons all year round. Have fun!

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Flock Talk Poultry

A Broody Hen Can Hatch Duck Eggs (Excerpt, “An Absolute Beginner’s Guide to Raising Backyard Ducks”)

Excerpted from An Absolute Beginner’s Guide to Raising Backyard Ducks© by Gail Damerow. Used with permission from Storey Publishing.

ducks chickens
courtesy of Storey Publishing

Although duck eggs take a week longer to hatch than chicken eggs, a chicken hen can successfully hatch duck eggs. A chicken can cover about 12 eggs of the same size she produces. To hatch duck eggs that are larger than her own, don’t expect her to handle more than about 10. If the duck eggs are smaller than her own (such as those of bantam ducks), she might be able to cover as many as 18. 

All the eggs must fit handily beneath her. If any stick out around the edge, chances are she’ll eventually rotate them back under her and let some other eggs take a turn getting chilled, until they all fail to hatch. Because duck eggs take longer to hatch than the 21 days required for chicken eggs, use a proven broody hen to hatch them. A hen that’s brooding for the first time may not stick around long enough to finish the job. 


Also Read: Is your broody hen too young to hatch eggs? It’s possible.


All the eggs in a nest must hatch at approximately the same time so the ducklings can leave the nest together, under the protection of the mother hen. Therefore, once you are assured that the chicken is indeed broody, remove whatever eggs are in her nest and replace them with the number of duck eggs you wish to hatch. 

Chickens typically mother ducklings as if they were their own. Some chickens become upset if their newly hatched babies waddle into the water for a swim. Others, however, take it in stride, jumping right in and happily paddling around right along with the ducklings. 

Gail Damerow lives on a farm in Tennessee where she and her husband keep poultry and dairy goats, tend a sizable garden, and maintain a small orchard. She has authored more than a dozen books,
including
Storey’s Guide to Raising Chickens; several Chickens magazine articles; and blogs at www.gaildamerow.com. 

This book excerpt previously appeared in the May/June 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Large Animals

What You Should Know About Frothy Bloat In Cattle

Bloat in cattle is a different sort of digestive issue than it is in humans. For us, it’s a bit of “tight pant syndrome” or water retention, most of the time due to diet or hormones. Although certainly uncomfortable, it’s typically temporary and not fatal. For cattle, however, bloat can be fatal.

Here’s what you should know about this condition in your animals.

2 Kinds of Bloat in Cattle

To clear up some initial confusion, there are two main types of bloat in cattle: free-gas bloat and frothy bloat.

Free-gas Bloat

Free-gas bloat occurs when there is a physical blockage of the esophagus and the animal can’t burp to relieve the constant buildup of gas in the rumen. This can also occur in certain metabolic conditions when the rumen isn’t churning as it should. This is called rumen stasis.

In both scenarios, a large gas bubble builds up inside the rumen which can’t be released, causing distension, pain and death, as the buildup of gas pressure on the diaphragm causes suffocation.

Frothy Bloat

Frothy bloat is slightly different and is the development of a foam (hence the froth) that sits on top of the ingesta in the rumen. This blocks the escape of gas through the esophagus. Both types of bloat involve the blockage of gas from the rumen, just from different causes.

Frothy bloat is sometimes called pasture bloat. This is because it is commonly seen with cattle on certain types of pasture. Legumes such as clover (red, white and sweet clover) and alfalfa are at the highest risk of causing this froth.

But why? Legumes such as clover and alfalfa are high in soluble protein. This can result in the creation of a sort of “slime” that sits on top of the rumen, trapping gas. These grasses also have a highly digestible cell wall that also contributes to the creation of a foamy cap.


Read more: Considering cattle? Here are 7 reasons to start your own herd!


Recognizing Bloat

How can you tell if an animal is experiencing frothy bloat? Initially, if you look carefully, you may notice that the left side of the animal’s flank is protruding, like a ball filling with air. This is because the rumen lies mostly on the left side of the abdomen.

From the back, the animal will appear uneven. This animal may act uncomfortable, such as repeatedly getting up and then lying down, kicking or looking at its flank, and it may go off feed. These signs may be difficult to observe when the cattle are out on pasture.

As the condition progresses, the left abdominal distension becomes more obvious to the point where the trapped gas puts pressure on the diaphragm and it becomes difficult for the animal to breathe. At this point, the animal may be reluctant to move and be in respiratory distress. If treatment is not implemented at this point, the animal is likely to die from suffocation.

Treating Bloat

The best way to treat an emergency situation of frothy bloat is to call your veterinarian. She will pass an orogastric (OG) tube—a rubber hose inserted down the throat and into the rumen. This will sometimes allow the release of air from the rumen and offer immediate relief.

However, remember the challenge with frothy bloat is that the froth can block the release of gas via the hose, just as it prevents release naturally through the esophagus. If no gas is released from the OG tube, an anti-foaming agent will be administered. This can be a specific drug like poloxalene, which is a surfactant that breaks down the foam.

It is commonly sold under brand names like Bloat Guard. In a pinch, mineral oil can also be used.


Read more: Dexter cattle pack a lot of benefits into a smaller frame.


Prevention Measures

This can all be quite dramatic if an animal is at the point of respiratory distress. So how do you prevent frothy bloat in the first place?

Pasture management is key. Experts recommend avoiding grazing cattle on pastures with more than 50 percent legumes. Dew increases the risk of bloat, so if you are moving cattle to a new pasture that contains legumes, don’t move them until mid-day after the dew has burned off.

Poloxalene is available as a block and feed additive. In high-risk situations, farmers can consider adding this as a daily supplement. Adding hay feeding along with pasture grazing has also been shown to decrease the incidence of bloat.

As with most things, there is not one best method for prevention. Finding a combination of factors that work best for your herd is key.

Categories
Animals Beekeeping Equipment Farm & Garden Projects Video

Video: Build A Simple DIY Bee Stand For Your Hives

I’m a first-year beekeeper—or, rather, I will be later this year when my bees arrive. Right now I’m getting things ready for my first hive, and I’ve got the hives set up and ready. But as today’s conditions evidence, things can get rainy and muddy this time of year around these parts, and water stands for a while on my flat farmland. So I’m building a bee hive stand to get my hives off the ground to keep things nice and dry for my bees.

I’ll be using a mixture of recycled and new lumber for this project. Here’s the breakdown of my supplies:

  • 2 treated 2×4 boards
  • 1 treated 2x6x8 board
  • 4×6 posts

Read more: Ready to start beekeeping? Here’s how to purchase bees for a new or expanding hive.


Cutting Lumber

The first step in this build is to cut four legs for the stand. The plans I found call for 4×4 posts, but I have some 4×6 posts on hand, so that’s what I’m using.

I’m building a stand big enough for my two bee boxes. So while my plans call for a stand 8 feet wide, I’m halving that to fit my needs. So I’m cutting my single 2x6x8-foot piece of lumber into two 4-foot pieces.

Next, I’m cutting the leg supports. Again, I’m deviating from the plans here, which call for two 25-inch leg supports. I’m doubling that with four leg supports, which will keep things more secure over time.

Bee Box Assembly

This stand doesn’t require much in the way of construction. Essentially, you’re just building a very basic table that your bee boxes can sit on, protected from ground-level moisture.

I’m not using glue or anything for this construction, but rather I’ll attach everything with some long, all-weather screws. You don’t need any advanced joinery techniques here—just screw everything together using butt joints to build a sturdy box-type table.

Check out the video to see how everything is constructed, as well as my tips for installing the bee stand on your land.