Categories
Recipes

Apple Tea: How to Make This Fall Recipe

apple tea served in a silver mug with apple slices
istetiana/Adobe Stock

Apple tea is perfect for celebrating cool fall temperatures and apple-picking season.

Below is a recipe from The Green Witch’s Guide to Magical Plants and Flowers, written by Chris Young and Susan Ottaviano.

Have you heard the term, “Green Witch” over the past few years? The definition of a green witch is someone who embraces nature and intentionally works toward living in harmony with the earth and humanity. Green witches believe that their “connection to the earth and the universe allows them to draw great power from creating love, health, peace, blessings and harmony in their world.”

Magical herbalism is the central practice of a green witch. The two Green Witches who authored this book seek to encourage readers to transform everyday flowers, fruits and plants from the garden into salts, herbal infusions, soaps, sachets, tinctures and more.

Enjoy the recipe below. I’d say this apple tea is definitely worth making again and again.

Apple Tea Recipe

Serves: 2

Ingredients

  • 2 green tea bags
  • 2 sticks of cinnamon
  • 3 whole cloves
  • 4 whole allspice berries
  • 1 cup unsweetened organic apple juice or apple cider
  • 1 green organic apple, sliced
  • Maple syrup or organic sugar, to taste

Instructions

In a saucepan, bring teo cups of water to a boil. Add tea bags, cinnamon, cloves and allspice to the pan. Remove from heat. Cover and let steep for three minutes.

Discard tea bags and spices. Stir in apple juice (or cider) and heat through.

Always remember that spoons are a kind of wand. You can use them while you cook to direct your energy and intentions to empower whatever you are preparing.

Serve tea with the green apple slices and sweetener of choice.

This recipe has been shared from The Green Witch’s Guide to Magical Plants and Flowers with permission from Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.

This article about a fall apple tea recipe was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Farm & Garden

3 Unique Types of Pumpkins for Halloween Displays

Brodé d'Galeux Eysines squash is one of many unique types of pumpkins
Kevin Fogle

Unique types of pumpkins are all the rage these days. An amazing world of heirloom and conventional pumpkin and gourd cultivars exists that can bring unexpected colors and shapes to your garden or front porch and people are embracing the unique.

Here are a few cultivars to go hunting for at a local U-pick. Many of these will also look great growing in your garden if you happen to have the space.

1. Lumina

lumina is one of many unique types of pumpkins

The Lumina is a standout in unique types of pumpkins. This  conventional cultivar is prized for its smooth, white skin and traditional globe shape. Lumina plants produce two or three pumpkins weighing between 10 and 15 pounds. The pumpkins need to be picked early to ensure the white skin doesn’t take on a bluish hue.

Primarily used for decoration, the Lumina variety is a great choice for fall centerpieces or carving. The white rind and bright yellow flesh create a striking contrast when carved. Just think of the fun jack-o’-lantern possibilities!

2. Long Island Cheese

long island cheese is one of many unique types of pumpkins

Another favorite in unique types of pumpkins is the Long Island Cheese pumpkin, which is famous for its unusual shape, weird name and pure buff color. This American heirloom earned its moniker from its uncanny resemblance to a large pale wheel of cheese. The pumpkin is flat and round with shallow ribs and a well-formed, thin stem. Weighing less than 10 pounds on average, the Long Island cheese has dense, slightly sweet flesh that’s prized for its use in pumpkin pie.

These heirloom pumpkins are also great keepers and will store well for many months if cured and kept dry. If you are thinking about carving the Long Island Cheese for Halloween, its especially thin rind means that the pumpkin will produce an eerie glow when it is well-lit from within.

3. Brodé d’Galeux Eysines

Brodé d'Galeux Eysines is one of many unique types of pumpkins

Looking for unique types of pumpkins and something creepy without even being carved? Consider the Brodé d’Galeux Eysines squash—better known as the peanut pumpkin. This favorite French heirloom gets its nickname from its distinctive peanut-like warts that cover the exterior of the peach-colored rind. Individual plants will produce only one or two of the flattened squashes weighing between 10 and 18 pounds.

This squash is also a culinary treat and is traditionally used by the French for savory dishes like soups and stews. Plan to harvest this pumpkin just before it reaches full maturity to avoid any cracking issues.

This article about three unique types of pumpkins was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Equipment

Tracked Vehicles: Can Your Farm Benefit From One?

skid steer carrying dirt in front bucket is an example of tracked vehicles for the farm
Skid Steer carrying dirt to build foundation pad in front bucket. Adobe Stock/Susan Waldron

Tracked vehicles can be a game changer in certain circumstances. Learn how your farm may benefit from the use of a vehicle with tracks instead of tires.

What are tracks?

Tracks go by a few different names. You might know them as caterpillar treads, and vehicles that have them are sometimes known as crawlers. Picture a military tank driving around on continuous bands of interconnected metal plates instead of tires—that’s an example of a tracked vehicle.

Many tracked vehicles have two tracks, one on each side. Some large agricultural tractors have four tracks, with two on each side. The length, width, and configuration of the tracks can vary depending on the vehicle and its purpose. Tracks can be made of metal, rubber, or a combination of both.

You don’t have to invest in a powerful agricultural tractor to gain the advantages of a tracked vehicle. A skid steer with tracks is a more affordable and practical option for small-scale farmers looking to benefit from tracks without breaking the bank. Also, some utility tractors are either designed to work with tracks or can be fitted with them. An example is the John Deere 40C, a version of the John Deere 40 that came with tracks instead of tires.

Advantages of tracks vs. tires

Tracks offer a big advantage over tires: improved flotation. What does this mean? It means the tracks spread the weight of the vehicle across a larger footprint and decrease the likelihood of the machine sinking into soft or wet ground. They “float” across the ground and won’t rut the soil as much as tires, especially if you opt for wide tracks that spread weight even more. With improved flotation, a tracked vehicle is less likely to get bogged down or stuck in wet ground. Traction in soft conditions can be much superior with tracks than tires.

Another advantage of tracks compared to tires is the fact tracks can’t go flat. Tracks can become damaged, true, but you don’t have to keep an eye on tire air pressure and won’t be interrupted by flat or punctured tires.

Tracked vehicles can also offer a smooth ride, since their large footprint evens out bumps and dips in the terrain. And they can be quite maneuverable, even turning in place by driving the tracks in opposite directions, much like a zero-turn mower. Most farm vehicles with tires don’t have this turn-in-place ability.

Disadvantages of tracks vs. tires

Of course, it’s hard to engineer perfection, and tracked vehicles have disadvantages too. Maintenance is a downside; the components of the tracks suffer a lot of strain while in operation, so you may find yourself replacing parts (like rollers, idlers, etc.) as they wear out. Maintaining proper track tension is another area requiring attention. And while specifics may vary, the track components also require grease and oil. Regularly cleaning the tracks can help prevent excess wear and mechanical issues, but that’s an extra chore, and not always an easy one.

Another disadvantage? Tracks can inflict damage to the terrain over which they drive. Tracked vehicles steer by driving their tracks at different speeds. This method of turning can be damaging to various types of ground, including lawns and grassy fields. Plus, metal tracks can damage pavement. Rubberized tracks can help alleviate these issues, but no solution is perfect.

Also, tracked vehicles tend to be more expensive than similar vehicles with tires.

Will your farm benefit from a tracked vehicle?

It comes down to this: if you need to tackle farming jobs over wet or soft ground, a tracked vehicle can allow you to power through conditions that would stop wheeled vehicles, either because they would get stuck or because they would cause too much rutting. And if you need to operate, say, a front-end loader in tight spots where maneuverability is critical, a small tracked vehicle like a skid steer might be perfect.

However, if you don’t see yourself in these circumstances—if your land is typically dry and firm and you don’t need to maneuver in tight spots—a vehicle with tires can alleviate the disadvantages of tracks and serve your needs just fine.

This article about tracked vehicles was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

How Much Does It Cost to Raise Chickens?

group of chickens inside a chicken coop which is included in how much does it cost to raise chickens
Adobe Stock/nd700

How much does it cost to raise chickens? While purchasing chicks is relatively inexpensive, the coop, run, feed, and other expenses quickly add up. Learn how much it costs to raise chickens before you get started.

What Do You Need to Get Started

All chickens need some basic essentials: a coop, run, feed, feeders, water fountains, perches, nesting boxes, and protection from predators are all essentials your chickens can’t live without.

The Coop

If you have ever Googled, “How much does it cost to raise chickens?” You have already learned that the coop is the largest expense. Coop prices vary depending on the size of the coop you acquire, whether you purchase an already-built coop, assemble one yourself, or construct a “coop” in an existing outbuilding.

Before purchasing or constructing a coop, consider what you want your future flock to look like. By planning ahead, you can prevent having to erect another coop in the future, saving you further expenses.

group of chickens at a feeder included in how much does it cost to raise chickens is the feeder, feed, birds and their shelter
Adobe Stock/thomaszobl

Pre-Built Chicken Coop Costs

Despite their cost, pre-built chicken coops are a popular option for starter flocks.  Assembled coops range in price from several hundred dollars to over six thousand dollars, depending on the coop size, whether there is an attached run, and the quality of the coop you are purchasing.

Bear in mind that for pre-built coop companies to cut costs, they may also be of lesser quality, so be sure to shop around for the safest coop, not just the cheapest.

DIY Coops

If you are handy at building things, DIY coops are an excellent way to cut costs. DIY coops also allow you to be creative and build the ideal coop to fit your needs. Construct a coop that is functional, human-accessible, predator-proof, and weather-proofed to keep your flock safe for the best chicken-raising experience.

When purchasing coop building supplies, avoid cheap materials such as chicken wire to create a safe home for the flock. The average cost of a DIY coop falls between three hundred and one thousand five hundred dollars.

Barn Coops

Constructing a coop in an existing barn or other outbuilding is the most budget-friendly option. Take care to only house chickens in an outbuilding with a wooden or cement floor. The estimated cost of constructing a coop in an outbuilding is between three and six hundred dollars. (Bear in mind that this cost does not include any repairs needed to make the outbuilding predator-proofed.)

Building the Run

Many chicken coops have runs attached to them, but constructing a run is necessary if you plan on housing your flock in a building without an attached run. Like the coop, the run should be safe from predators (including digging and ariel predators).

Chicken tractors are the most popular run options and generally cost between three hundred and four thousand dollars, depending on the size. Chicken tractors are often not completely predator-proof, which will add additional costs.

Coop Essentials

Coop essentials should not cost too much unless you plan to be extravagant. These essentials include nesting boxes, a perch, feeders, and water founts. To better learn how much does it cost to raise chickens, let’s look at the prices for these coop essentials.

The Perch

Untreated 2x4x8 boards (cut down to desired perch size) are really the best perching option, costing under five dollars per board. These boards make for better perches than old ladders, as the narrow side of the board is the ideal width for hens to easily grip the perch with their feet.

Nesting Boxes

Nesting box prices vary depending on whether you buy some from a manufacturer, build your own, or use some old storage containers. My flock uses plastic containers from Walmart, as they are budget-friendly and easy to clean up any accidental egg messes.

Nesting box prices vary from twenty dollars to several hundred, depending on your chosen style.

Feeders & Water Founts

Like all chicken care products, feeders and water fountain prices vary depending on style and size. However, for basic water founts and feeders for small backyard flocks, each feeder and water fount should cost approximately ten dollars.

Always have at least two feeders and two water founts in case one accidentally spills to ensure your flock has water and food at all times.

Feed Costs

Pellets, crumble, organic, natural, and non-organic are some of the choices to make before you can decide the estimated cost of feeding chickens. Estimate one fifty-pound bag of feed per month for every ten chickens (depending on the chickens’ age and the time of year).

  • Organic Feed Cost: $30.00-$40.00 per forty lbs. of feed
  • Non-Organic Feed Cost: $20.00-$25.00 per fifty lbs. of feed

Predator Protection

Predator protection costs vary depending on the condition of the coop/barn or existing outbuilding and run you have and the predators found in your area. Remember, predator-proofing is a life-long endeavor, not a once-and-done chore, leading to additional costs per year.

Chicken Costs

The average laying pullet (chick) costs about four dollars. For a flock of ten chickens, the estimated cost is forty dollars. Purchasing chicks through a feedstore will help cut costs, as you won’t need to pay for shipping.

How Much Does It Cost to Raise Chickens in Total?

How much does it cost to raise chickens in total depends on your specific wants and needs. However, the estimated startup costs for a flock of ten usually fall between one thousand three hundred dollars to over eight thousand dollars.

Additional costs should be considered when raising chickens for pets, including treats, supplements, and vet care.

How much does it cost to raise chickens depends on how you want to raise your flock and how important it is to protect them from predators. But for those drawn to raising their own food or pet chicken flock, the costs and effort are well worth the money and time.

This article about how much does it cost to raise chickens was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Uncategorized

Growing Good Podcast #87: Entomologist Ron Bittner

This conversation with Ron Bittner will help you make the connection between crop pollination, water conservation and soil health in a way you probably haven’t before.

Learn about how Ron’s interest in insects—specifically the alfalfa leafcutting bee—has taken him around the US and all the way to Australia.

Hear about the beginnings of Ron’s small vineyard, which he operates with his wife, daughter and a small crew and why this location in Caldwell, Idaho, is ideal for growing wine grapes. Ron also talks about his farm’s certifications: Salmon Safe, Bee Friendly Farming and LIVE.

Ron’s involvement with the nonprofit Pollinator Partnership and continued research on pollinator populations in his area keep him involved with some of the 4,000 native bees in the US. Let his passion for pollinators get you excited about how to attract and protect these creatures on your own property. 

Links from this episode:

Hobby Farms Presents: Growing Good podcast episode with Sara Wittenburg

Pollinator Partnership website

iNaturalist citizen science app

Categories
Equipment

How Much Weight Can a Front-End Loader Lift?

front end loader lifting feed for cows
Tractor with front end loader scored feed for cows. Adobe Stock/sheris9

How much weight can a front-end loader lift? The answer depends on many factors, including the size and strength of the loader, the type of load you’re lifting, and whether your machine is appropriately counterbalanced.

Whether you’re looking to lift a 300-pound log or 1,000 pounds of dirt, it’s wise to know the maximum lifting capabilities of your loader so you can tackle suitably-sized jobs safely and efficiently. Here are three tips for determining (and maximizing) the lifting capacity of your front-end loader:

#1 Check online or in the manual for weight lifting maximums.

You don’t have to guess how much a loader can lift, at least not entirely. You can find basic numbers by looking up the front-end loader’s specifications online or in a printed manual if you have one.

There are two key numbers to know. The first is how much weight the loader can lift to maximum height at the pivot pins. Let’s say it’s 1,250 pounds. You’re good to go lifting anything up to 1,250 pounds, right?

Wrong. The bucket of the front-end loader sits forward of the pivot pins, and this added distance creates leverage that reduces the lifting ability of your loader. The same goes when using other attachments, like forks. In all likelihood, the load you’re lifting is going to sit somewhat forward of the pins.

That’s where the second number comes into play. If your loader is rated to lift 1,000 pounds to maximum height at a point 20 inches forward of the pins, that’s a more realistic measure of your loader’s lifting capacity.

Understand that a small front-end loader may be fairly limited in its lifting capabilities. If the most it can lift to a maximum height 20 inches forward of the pins is 550 pounds, you’ll have to carry less with each load (if lifting dirt, compost, logs, etc.) and skip lifting solid objects weighing more than 550 pounds if they can’t be separated into smaller loads.

On the other hand, powerful tractors with large front-end loaders can be capable of lifting more than 6,000 pounds. When you have a front-end loader this strong (and a powerful tractor to match), you can tackle some mighty heavy-lifting projects without running up against the limitations of your loader.

#2 If you only need to lift a little, you can lift more.

Notice that the rated lifting capacity of your front-end loader refers to the amount it can lift to maximum height. If you don’t need to lift a heavy load as high up as possible, you can squeeze more lifting power out of your loader. For example, if you’re using a bale spear to lift a round bale, and you only need to lift the bale a few inches off the ground, you’ll be able to lift more weight than your loader is otherwise rated for.

#3 Counterbalancing is the key to safety and max performance.

When lifting heavy loads with a front-end loader, it’s critical to counterbalance the weight at the front of your tractor with ballast at the rear. Without weight at the rear, when you attempt to lift your load, you may find that the load stays stationary and the rear wheels of your tractor lift off the ground instead. Suffice to say, that’s a safety hazard.

Ballast helps you stay safe while getting the most out of your front-end loader. Wheel weights and liquid tire ballasts are two common options. You can also install suitcase weights on a bracket at the rear of your tractor, or mount a ballast box to the three-point hitch and fill it up with heavy materials like rocks, concrete blocks, or dirt. In a pinch, you use any three-point implement (like a plow or box blade) as rear ballast, though doing so can make your tractor less maneuverable, and you mustn’t forget about the implement an inadvertently damage it while focusing on your front-end loader.

By combining these tips and tricks with the rated lifting capacity of your front-end loader, you can stay safe while maximizing the amount of weight your front-end loader can lift.

This article about how much weight can a front-end loader lift was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe. 

Categories
Poultry

Chicken Water: What Kind of Water Should Chickens Drink

chicken water in backyard with red chicken drinking from a waterer
Red chickens on a private farm in the village. Adobe Stock/UPictures

Chicken water may seem like a basic topic. And, it is. Like all living things, our chickens need water to survive, thrive and produce healthy eggs. Clean water keeps hens’ reproductive systems working the way they should, and some chicken keepers, especially newbies, worry about water quality or if they’re properly watering their flock. To provide some clarity, here are four water sources for your chickens and what to think about when using them.

1. Tap Water

In urban areas with municipal water systems, we don’t usually need to worry about the water quality. City water sources are considered safe for consumption, but there are certainly differences in the taste and composition from city to city. Treated water isn’t all the same, but it is almost always safe. Growing up, I drank from Lake Huron. Today, my chickens and I drink from the Ohio River. I can tell you, the difference between the two is huge; in our current location, we face more hard-water issues.

Watering your flock from the outside spigot is comparable to the tap water inside your house. Although the tap inside is probably cleaner than the spigot outside, that’s certainly nothing to worry about. Sometimes I will clean my flocks’ waterer, fill it up from the spigot, and put it back in the coop, only to find them all drinking out of a mud puddle.

Safety Check: 4 Water Sources for Your Chickens - Photo by Rachel Hurd Anger (UrbanFarmOnline.com) #chickens #chickenkeeping

2. Well Water

About 15 percent of the U.S. relies on private wells, which aren’t regulated like municipal water sources. Wells can be polluted by natural and man-made contaminants, including microorganisms, like bacteria and viruses, heavy metals, and unsafe levels of naturally occurring fluoride. Chemicals or animal waste runoff from farms can also contaminate wells, especially if they’re shallow.

If you have well water, test it for safety. If you drink it yourself, consider it safe for your livestock, too. But, if you don’t drink your well water for reasons like heavy metal contamination, chemical pollutants or microorganisms, remember you are what you eat—and you are what your food eats, too. If you eat the eggs or meat of your chickens, don’t give them water you wouldn’t drink yourself.

3. Softened Water

Water softeners commonly use salt (sodium chloride)—the same stuff in your kitchen saltshaker—to replace the calcium and magnesium ions that make water hard. Hard water’s biggest caveat is scale buildup. It’s not unsafe to drink, but it can clog pipes, build up around faucets, and keep your soap from lathering in the shower. Water softeners installed where water enters the home can protect pipes, making the naturally hard water unavailable.

While water softeners use common table salt, the process of softening is only replacing calcium and magnesium ions with higher-charged sodium ones. Very little sodium ends up in the drinking water. Even for people on a sodium-restricted diet, the FDA says that the amount of sodium in an 8-ounce glass of water is so low that it still falls under its own definition of a very low-sodium food.

Consider that if you’re giving your chickens any kind of electrolyte products, that it contains more sodium than they will consume from softened water. Sodium is an essential electrolyte. If you’re sodium sensitive and use a water purification system that uses potassium chloride in lieu of sodium chloride, this is also safe for you and for your flock.

4. Backyard Hose

Dragging the hose to the waterer for rinsing and refills is often easier than lugging the waterer to the spigot. If you prefer the hose, consider buying one labeled safe for drinking. Most commercial hoses contain hormone disruptors, like phthalates and and bisphenol A (BPA), to keep the plastic soft. If you can’t replace your hose, let the water run for several minutes before giving any hose water to the chickens. This will rinse out many contaminants that could have leached into the water left sitting in the hose.

This story about chicken water was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

Got a Missing Chicken? 5 Steps to Take

missing chicken hiding nest grass
Ana Hotaling

Got a missing chicken? For those who keep a backyard flock in an urban or suburban setting, a missing bird seems unthinkable. How could a chicken possibly get out of its tidy, contained coop-and-run combo or its fenced backyard?

For those of us who live in a rural residential or agricultural zone, however, discovering a member of our flock is missing at lock-up is not as uncommon as you’d think. Combine free-ranging with a chicken’s innate curiosity and you’ll have plenty of reasons why you might be short one chicken.

If this happens to you when you’re closing up your coop for the night, don’t panic. Take a deep breath. Then take on one or more of these five suggestions.

#1 Is Your Bird Having a Slumber Party?

If you raise multiple flocks of chickens, chances are your birds have not only noticed each other but have also communicated back and forth through clucks, warbles, crows and other vocalizations. Commonly, these calls keep each other informed of the status of their territory. This is especially true if you keep more than one rooster.

Occasionally, your birds’ chatter may actually be more neighborly. Chickens will sort out where each of them stands in the expanded poultry society comprised of all your flocks. If you discover that one of your hens is missing, check your other coops.

I’ve lost count of how many times we’ve found members our BBS Orpington flock peacefully snoozing on the perch in the Buff Orpington coop and Buffs on the Blue Orpington perch. If your birds are having a sleepover , there’s no need to disturb them (unless roosters are present and you breed separate varieties).

Just sort everyone back out when you release them in the morning.

#2 Your Missing Chicken Could Be a High Flyer

With few exceptions, chickens prefer their roosts several feet off the ground. According to Dr. Richard Fulton, a poultry science professor at Michigan State University, the inclination to roost up high originates from an instinct to stay out of reach of ground-based predators.

Most birds are content with the height of their henhouse perches. But others look for higher ground.

Our Dutch Bantam, Cutie, and our Golden Sebright, Dennis, always perched up in the rafters of their coop, well above the heads of the rest of their flock. Dennis went missing one evening, and I spent several hours searching the surrounding forests for that tiny bird.

I finally gave up and headed back to the house. Then I caught an orange gleam high up in one of our maples. Sure enough, there was Dennis, cozy as could be and snoozing away.

If your missing chicken is a bantam or a breed that flies well, such as Ameraucana, Lakenvelder or Fayoumi, get out your flashlight and search in the boughs of nearby trees. Chances are your lost chook is roosting on a low branch.

#3 Mamma Mia! (It Could Be Broodiness)

Even if our coops are equipped with nest boxes, sometimes a girl in Mama Hen mode wants more privacy than we provide. Instead of setting eggs within the safety of their henhouses, these ladies venture out to find brooding grounds of their own.

Ten years ago, our Easter Egger, Keynoter, went missing from release until lock-up every day for more than two weeks. I finally tailed her to the woods on the southeast corner of our property. Here I discovered her—and her clutch of 18 eggs—tucked out of sight beneath a fallen tree.

Our Black Orpington, Fitz, pulled a similar stunt four years ago, except she did not return at night. We’d given her up for dead… until the weekend we were weeding around our pole barn. There was Fitz, all fluffed up and growling at us from beneath our overgrown rhubarb, where she was brooding nine eggs.

We were fortunate that our hens weren’t overly adventurous. Mari, a local breeder I know, lost her award-winning Salmon Faverolle hen one summer evening a few years back. Her family searched everywhere for the sweet-tempered hen, to no avail.

About three weeks later, that Faverolle reappeared, trooping out of the forest and looking very worn, ratty and grumpy … with a troop of chicks accompanying her.

If your missing bird is a hen who has demonstrated a penchant for brooding, check under shrubs and bushes, beneath fallen trees and behind air-conditioning units.

Look inside old tires, too. That’s where we found Ebony Orpington and her egg-filled nest.

#4 A Missing Chicken Could Mean Predatory Danger

Unfortunately, sometimes our birds don’t leave of their own accord. Chicken predators exist pretty much anywhere chickens live, especially if you live in a suburban, rural or agricultural area.

While many predators leave behind vivid evidence of their visits, some grab and go with minimal disruption. If your hen seems to have vanished without a trace, chances are it was carried off by a bobcat, fox or coyote… or by a hawk or owl.

Each of these predators prefers to carry off their prey versus kill and eat it in situ.

Years ago, our Buff Orpington girl, Buttercup, disappeared without a trace. My husband, Jae, and I hadn’t mowed recently, however. I managed to track a trail of disturbed tall grass into the woods and right up to a fox’s den dug out under a fallen tree.

Sure enough, Buttercup’s legs were sticking out of the entrance. The fox was nowhere in sight, so we retrieved our poor girl and gave her a proper burial. If your chicken has seemingly disappeared, she may have been the victim of a predator.

#5 Don’t Give up If Your Chicken Goes Missing

If your headcount is off at lock-up or at any other time and you’ve already exhausted the steps outlined above, don’t give up hope just yet. Call your neighbors and ask them to keep an eye open for your missing bird.

(Our Henrietta once decided to relocate herself to the grassy backyard of neighbors about a half mile to the north.)

Carefully check your road for signs of a chicken unsuccessfully trying to cross a road. Inspect your garage, garden shed and any other structure on your property and on your neighbors’ property, too. If you belong to a local poultry group, put out the word—and share a photo, if you have one—that your chicken is missing.

The more people searching, the more chances you’ll find your bird.

This article about what to do about a missing chicken was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Equipment

3-Point Hitch: How to Attach It To Your Tractor

tractor with attached 3 point hitch
Daniel Johnson

How do you attach a 3-point hitch implement to your tractor? It might seem straightforward at first glance, but you need a little knowledge and experience to do the job quickly and easily.

If you’re struggling with getting a 3-point implement attached to your tractor, here are step-by-step instructions to guide you through the process:

#1 Back Your Tractor Up to the 3-Point Hitch

Slowly back your tractor toward the 3-point hitch you want to attach. Don’t approach at an angle; get lined up straight so that the two hydraulic-powered lift arms of your 3-point hitch are positioned roughly in line with the attachment points (likely protruding pins) on the implement.

#2 Adjust the Height of the Lift Arms

The lift arms may not be at the correct height for the implement you’re attaching. Using the hydraulic controls, raise or lower the lift arms as necessary to get them roughly aligned with the implement. You’ll notice the height of one lift arm (usually the one on the right) can be adjusted independently of the other, perhaps with a hand crank. If your implement isn’t sitting perfectly flat (maybe the ground is sloped a bit), you can raise or lower the adjustable arm to match the slant and ensure you can attach both arms to the implement.

Note that some 3-point hitches have telescoping lift arms that can extend and give you even more flexibility for achieving proper alignment with the implement. If you extend one or both lift arms, you’ll have to return them to their proper length once finished. Try backing up the tractor slowly and gently until they snap back into normal length.

#3 Attach the Non-Adjustable Lift Arm

The connectors that the hydraulic lift arms raise and lower—the connectors that actually attach to the three-point implement—are called draft links. Each one has a hole in the end that can be attached via pin to an appropriate place on three-point implements. Exactly where the draft links are attached will depend on the implement.

Attach the draft link on the non-adjustable lift arm to the implement. Secure it in place as required, likely with a lynchpin. If you have trouble getting the draft link to line up with the implement, you may need to adjust or loosen the stabilizer arms that limit the draft links from swinging side to side. The stabilizer arms might be telescoping ones that lock into a particular length with pins, or they might be adjustable with turnbuckles.

You may also be able to slightly tweak the position of the implement itself by pushing and shoving. Use a crowbar or digging bar to gain leverage if needed, but be careful not to hurt yourself (or you machines). Implements can be heavy!

#4 Attach the Adjustable Lift Arm

Move to the opposite side of your tractor and attach the draft link on the adjustable lift arm to the appropriate point on your implement, adjusting the height of the lift arm and the position of the stabilizer arm as needed. Secure the draft link in place with a lynchpin. Once the draft link is attached, you can return the adjustable lift arm to its normal height (if you changed it) to level the implement. Or, if you want one side of the implement to be higher or lower than the other, you can adjust the lift arm accordingly. As an example, slanting a rear blade or box blade in this manner can help create a crown for drainage when grading a driveway.

#5 Attach the top link

At this point, the job gets easier. The top link of the 3-point hitch is adjustable in length, so you can shorten or lengthen it as needed until you can attach it via pin to the top connection point on the implement. Add a lynchpin to lock it in place.

Once the top link is attached, you can further adjust the length to change the front-to-back pitch of the implement, if needed. Once you’re happy with the position, there may be a lock nut you can tighten to firmly secure the length of the top link at your chosen point.

#6 Return Stabilizer Arms to Proper Tension

If you adjusted the stabilizer arms for the draft links, you’ll want to tighten them back to a suitable tension to prevent your implement from swinging side to side.

Congratulations! You’ve successfully attached a three-point implement to your tractor.

This article about how to attach a 3-point hitch to a tractor was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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Poultry

When Do Ducks Molt? Plus, Proper Nutrition During Molting

molting wood duck swimming
Molting wood duck. Adobe Stock/Jim Cumming

When do ducks molt? Learn the answer to this question and many others as we dive into why and when ducks molt, proper nutrition for molting ducks, and more.

Why Do Ducks Molt?

Ducks molt for various reasons, including replacing their worn-out feathers in autumn to mating plumage, but to get into the nitty-gritty of why ducks molt, let’s first look at when do ducks molt.

When Do Ducks Molt?

Like chickens, ducks do a big molt in autumn, replacing the worn-out feathers on their heads, necks, bodies, and wings with new ones. The new feathers are more airtight and keep ducks warm during the cold winter months. This molt usually occurs in August or September, but exceptional egg layers may not molt until October. But unlike their chicken cousins, who molt once a year, ducks molt twice.

Female ducks drop their body feathers again in the late winter/early spring just before the point of lay. This molt is a good sign for backyard duck keepers eagerly anticipating those first spring eggs, and it does not seem to cause the duck any discomfort.

Male ducks go into an eclipse molt in late spring/early summer as they replace their bright, vivid mating plumage with subdued plumage, making them look like females. Since all domesticated ducks are Mallard descendants (excluding Muscovies), all drakes go through an eclipse molt. However, if you raise Pekins or other white duck breeds, you will not be able to see any difference in your drake’s feathering except for losing the curly feathers on his tail.

What To Expect

Ducks molt fast. You may find feathers everywhere when you head out to the coop one morning in late summer/early fall. You might think that your flock has been attacked by a predator, but a look around the coop will reassure you all ducks are accounted for. And the fall molt is underway.

molting duck feathers scattered in a backyard
Scattered feathers from a molting duck. Photo by Erin Snyder

Dropping all their feathers may not be the only symptom molting ducks may show. Changes in hormones may result in some ducks becoming grumpy. Grumpy ducks may even start flock squabbles. If this occurs, separate the bully from the other flock members until everything calms down.

How Do Ducks Molt?

Ducks and chickens do not molt the same way, so if you are accustomed to how a chicken molts, ducks may surprise you. Ducks drop all their feathers, including their wing feathers, in just a few days, while chickens drop their feathers over several weeks. Even though domestic ducks cannot fly, losing their primary flight feathers makes them skittish and nervous.

Ducks also appear to feel more prickly than chickens, so be extra careful when handling them (more on that later).

While ducks quickly regrow their feathers, they need a lot of feed and proper nutrition to do that. Molting is hard work, so let’s look at what a duck needs to grow strong, healthy feathers.

A Molting Duck’s Diet

Molting requires a lot of energy, second only to egg laying, so it’s crucial to supply your flock with the proper nutrients they need to molt.

High-Quality Feed: High-quality feed begins with choosing a good brand. Look for a feed with essential amino acids and probiotics to support a healthy immune system. Always feed ducks a layer ration during a molt, as maintenance feed does not have the nutritional values molting ducks require.

Healthy Protein-Filled Treats: Supplementing your duck’s diet with healthy treats will help boost protein levels and encourage your flock to eat, as molting poultry tend to consume less feed. Encourage your ducks to eat by offering healthy treats such as black soldier fly larvae, peas, oatmeal, wheat berries, and zucchini.

Avoid feeding unhealthy treats such as bread, corn, mealworms, pasta, and tomatoes.

Probiotics: If you are not already supplementing your ducks’ diet with probiotics, adding some to their feed or water during a molt is essential to keeping your flock healthy. Molting is stressful for ducks, making them more susceptible to disease. Adding probiotics to your flock’s diet will make the molt easier for everyone.

Brewer’s Yeast: Brewer’s yeast is essential to a duck’s diet. This vitamin B supplement contains high amounts of niacin, an essential vitamin ducks need to stay healthy.

Herbs: Many herbs contain vitamins and minerals beneficial to ducks, especially during molting. Feed oregano to molting ducks to boost their immune system and parsley, fennel, and dill to help them through the molt.

Keep Them Safe

When do ducks molt? In the fall, when many predators are teaching their young to hunt, the combination of increased predator activities and not feeling their best increases a duck’s chance of falling prey.

If your duck flock isn’t already housed in an entirely predator-proofed coop and run, move molting ducks to a safe place to keep everyone safe. Do not allow molting ducks to free-range unless directly supervised by an adult.

Handling Tips

Ducks are often uncomfortable when molting as the new feather growth can make them sensitive to being handled. When handling a molting duck, let them lay across your right arm while placing your left hand on their chest to support them. Pay close attention to the wings as new flight feathers growing in are extremely painful for ducks.

Now that you know the answers to when do ducks molt, what to expect from a molt, and what nutrients they need for a successful molt, you can help your flock through one of the most challenging times of the year.

This article about when do ducks molt was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.