Hedge trimmers vs. hedge shears. What do you need? It depends on your farm. If you’re focused on raising livestock, maybe not. But if you’re a gardener and want to maintain lovely hedges and shrubs, you’ll want a tool to keep them tidy.
Hedge shears or a hedge trimmer can do the trick. But what are the differences, and which will best suit your needs? Let’s determine whether you need hedge shears or a hedge trimmer on your farm:
What are hedge shears?
Also known as hedge clippers, hedge shears are a hand tool a lot like pruning loppers, but with long, scissor-like cutting blades. They’re designed for shaping and maintaining hedges, shrubs, bushes—really any plant where you need to quickly trim a bunch of small branches to similar lengths.
Hedge shears are lightweight, relatively inexpensive, and simple to use (no power source is needed, only your muscles). But they can be tiring to use if you have a large number of hedges, shrubs, and bushes that need maintenance.
What is a hedge trimmer?
A hedge trimmer is a powered machine that uses long blades with teeth to perform the trimming. All you have to do is engage the power and maneuver the blades with care, and the hedge trimmer will do all the cutting for you.
Hedge trimmers come in many sizes and designs. Whereas the blade length on hedge shears might be six inches, the blades of a hedge trimmer might be 18 inches or 24 inches, allowing you to cut much more at once. In addition, there are poll-mounted hedge trimmers that enable you to cut at heights you wouldn’t be able to reach with hedge shears, at least not without climbing up a ladder.
Hedge trimmers can be powered by a variety of sources. Gas hedge trimmers use a small gasoline engine, which provides ample power and a quick way to refuel, but comes with the downside of weight, noise, and engine maintenance.
Corded electric hedge trimmers run off electricity supplied through a suitable extension cord. They’re lightweight, quiet, emission-free, and easy to start, but mobility is limited by being tethered to the extension cord, and you’ll give up some power compared to a gasoline hedge trimmer.
Battery-powered hedge trimmers eliminate the mobility issues of corded hedge trimmers while offering many of the same benefits. But if your battery runs dry, you’ll have to recharge it before you can resume trimming.
Be sure to note the spacing between the blade teeth on a hedge trimmer. This spacing (3/4-inch, one-inch, etc.) determines the thickest branches the hedge trimmer can cut.
Do you need hedge shears or a hedge trimmer?
If you don’t have long hedges to maintain and are looking more at shaping a few small shrubs, hedge shears might be all you need. Their simplicity and low cost is appealing if you’ll only be using them infrequently.
But if you have your sights set on maintaining a beautiful English garden full of hedges, or if you have a lot of shrubs and bushes you want to tidily shape, hedge trimmers may be worth the extra cost. You’ll appreciate how they save you the repetitive physical exertion of operating hedge shears, and your trimming tasks can be completed faster using the longer, powered blades.
This article about hedge trimmers and hedge shears was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
What chickens lay pink eggs? This article discusses seven pink egg-laying chickens to add color to your egg basket and personality to your flock.
1. Speckled Sussex
One of the most common brown egg-layers kept in backyard flocks, the Speckled Sussex is a well-loved breed. However, while the breed is known for its brown eggs, it may be surprising that this popular chicken can also lay pink eggs.
This breed’s hens are curious and friendly, thriving on human interactions. Speckled Sussex hens are active and need plenty of mental stimulation to keep them happy. In mixed flocks, Sussex can bully more docile breeds.
Speckled Sussex hens lay an average of 4-5 medium light brown to pink eggs weekly (150 eggs annually). While they may not put out the same number of eggs per year as other breeds, the number rarely decreases for the first four years of their lives.
Color Varieties: Speckled is the only common variety in the United States.
Adobe Stock/Jason
2. Java
The Java is a fair egg layer producing three-to-four large eggs weekly (about one hundred to one hundred and fifty eggs annually). Eggs vary in color from light to dark brown to orange, pink, and green. One of the most exciting things about Java hens is that one hen does not consistently lay the same colored egg, as egg color varies significantly throughout the laying season.
Java chickens are calm, sweet, and friendly. Their docile nature makes them ideal pets for children. This breed does well in a mixed flock with other docile breeds.
Java hens are also known for their quiet temperaments.
Color Varieties: Black and Mottled (Mottled is the most popular color option in the U.S.).
3. Black Australorp
Perfect for the novice, the Black Australorp can be an often overlooked choice when considering what chickens lay pink eggs. Primarily considered a brown egg layer, Australorp hens occasionally lay eggs tinted in pink.
The breed’s sweet nature makes it ideal for young children and novices. Although black Australorp hens may appear shy at first, they quickly forget their shyness if handled frequently.
Australorp hens are egg-laying rockstars, averaging 5 – 6 light brown eggs per week (about 220 – 240 eggs per year), and lay an average of 4 years.
Color Varieties: Black is the primary color available in the U.S.
4. Buff Orpington
The golden retriever of the chicken world, Buff Orpingtons, are sweet, friendly, people-loving chickens. The breed is one of the most popular chickens kept in backyard flocks, and it’s easy to see why. With their exceptionally soft golden-colored feathers and endearing personalities, the Buff Orpington is an ideal choice for children, novices, and veteran chicken keepers alike.
Buff Orpingtons lay an average of 3 – 5 light brown or pink eggs per week (120 – 150 eggs annually) and will lay for three years.
Color Varieties: Black, Blue, Buff, Jubilee, Lavender, and White, with Buff being the most common color.
5. Silkie
With their hair-like feathering, sweet temperaments, and excellent mothering abilities, Silkies have proven they are no ordinary chicken.
Silkies make excellent family pets. Their sweet, docile, and endearing nature makes them hard to resist, even for non-chicken-loving people. However, their sweet, docile nature disadvantages them in mixed flocks. To prevent this breed from being severely bullied, housing them separately from aggressive breeds is advised. Silkie hens are also wonderful mothers, happily sitting on eggs and raising chicks.
Silkie hens are good bantam egg layers averaging 3-4 small light tan, cream, or pink eggs weekly (100-150 eggs annually).
Color Varieties: Black, Blue, Buff, Gray, Partridge, and White.
6. Salmon Faverolles
What chickens lay pink eggs and have five toes? Salmon Faverolles. This breed has won the hearts of many backyard flock owners. These curious and energetic chickens make lovely pets and love interacting with people of all ages. They are also an ideal breed for the novice.
Both the hens and roosters are adaptable (although they should not be allowed to free-range) and have a calm and gentle disposition.
Salmon Faverolles hens are good egg producers, averaging four tinted, light brown, or pink medium-sized eggs weekly (about 150-200 eggs annually).
Color Varieties: The American Poultry Association (APA) recognizes the breed in two colors, Salmon and White. Salmon is the only color available from most hatcheries.
7. Easter Egger
What chickens lay pink eggs? Easter Eggers! This delightful chicken doesn’t just lay pink eggs but also blue, green, or brown eggs, earning this breed its name. Easter Egger hens are excellent producers, averaging 4 – 6 large/extra large pink, blue, brown or green eggs weekly (250 – 280 eggs annually).
Easter Egger hens have earned their popularity not only with their colorful egg baskets but also with their charming personalities. This chicken’s curious, gentle, and social personality is ideal for families with children, as it thrives with human interactions.
Their calm and gentle nature makes them easily bullied by more aggressive breeds, so care should be taken to ensure these gentle birds are not bullied.
Color Varieties: This unique chicken comes in many colors that do not breed true.
Now that you know what chickens lay pink eggs consider adding one of these seven pink egg layers to add color to your egg basket.
This story about what chickens lay pink eggs was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
How to make money with chickens can be top of mind as the past few years prove that chickens are farm gateway animals. They appear easy to get into and lure non-agricultural people and children into trying out farm life. One of the qualities making chickens so attractive is the appeal to make money, or at least support a chicken operation. While there are several ways chickens can make a profit, these five ways are the easiest.
1. Sell Fresh Eggs
Eggs are a byproduct of chickens. Selling eggs is easy because there are no steps needed to take other than collecting and selling. Eggs can last two to four weeks unrefrigerated on the counter or up to six months if cleaned and stored in the refrigerator. This allows plenty of time for selling and is very appealing for customers.
Rhode Island Reds are often hailed as prolific egg layers. They lay 200-300 eggs per year, which equates to around 5 eggs per week. They are a great choice of egg layers because they can start laying eggs around 16 weeks while other breeds take up to one year.
As of Fall 2024, $4/dozen fresh eggs is a fair rate. The rule of thumb is to price just over the supermarket fee. Fresh organic eggs have a distinctly better homegrown taste and higher nutritional value. As in any business, economy of scale comes into play. The more chickens you have the more products you will have to sell. After setting up your coop, daily feeding and watering you might as well have multiple birds as it takes very little effort to care for more than one.
2. Sell Hatching Eggs
One rooster can cover 12 hens and be successful at fertilizing their eggs. No special breeding tactics are required to sell hatching eggs. Just access to hens for a rooster. Gathering eggs quickly and selling them garners a fee higher than fresh eggs, but not as high as hatched eggs. However, it takes much less time and effort and customers understand they can’t be choosy about the characteristics, colors or gender of the chicks. The more rare the breed, the more money people will spend and more willingness to buy eggs.
3. Sell Juveniles
Stepping up in difficulty is selling juvenile chickens. Juvenile chickens are around six weeks old and still unsexed. Selling unsexed chickens is a safe bet because many people do not want roosters and before they are old enough to be sexed you will be selling all chickens for the same price. The juvenile age is safely off the heat lamp and more hearty than day-old chicks. The price difference certainly reflects the additional time and supplies needed.
4. Sell Hens
The most difficult of these suggestions is to sell hens. The difficult part comes before the pullets become hens. Keeping birds healthy enough to be at an egg-laying age takes a lot of monitoring. Birds become much heartier as they near egg-laying age. The easier part is selling. Many customers will pay more for a hen ready to lay, rather than risking getting a rooster or getting a young chick. Rare and exotic breeds go for high dollars when they are ready to breed and produce offspring. Buying one hen ready to have lots of chicks in the near future is an investment people are looking to make.
5. Sell Manure
Chicken manure is considered a complete fertilizer as it contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. It also includes calcium, sulfur, manganese, magnesium, copper, zinc, boron, chlorine and iron. When the coop needs to be cleaned, simply save the litter and allow it to sit and compost for 90+ days. Gardeners are thrilled to use this black gold for several applications including; supplementing nitrogen, drainage enhancement, erosion reduction and soil aeration.
How to Make Money with Chickens: Business Principles
Basic business principles apply to profiting from chickens, as well as any other business. Economy of scale comes into play realizing with little more effort multiple birds mean multiple products to sell. General marketing should be used to communicate and educate clients. Understanding profit margins. Yes, butchering chickens and selling meat will make money, but if it requires a middleman your profit will decrease dramatically. Understanding time is money is another consideration. Hatching eggs yourself requires maintenance for three weeks plus the time it takes for them to be old enough to sell. Value time and reflect that in your pricing structure.
Intangible principles also help make this endeavor more fun than several other ways to make a profit. Watching genetics play out in each hatching is fascinating. Taking place in contributing to a heritage breed or a rare breed is humbling. If you already enjoy chickens, finding ways to profit from them is a fulfilling job.
This post about how to make money from chickens was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Can chickens eat pumpkins? It’s a question that chicken keepers ask each year as gardens become laden with ripe pumpkins and squash. The short answer is yes. Here are some nutritional notes to make sure your birds make the most of this seasonal bounty from pie pumpkins to mini decorative varieties and jack-o’-lanterns.
Can Chickens Eat Pumpkins: Nutritional Notes
Pumpkin is one of the most nutritious treats you can ever offer your chickens. Pumpkin flesh is chock full of vitamin E, thiamine, niacin, vitamin B6 and iron. Pumpkin seeds are an excellent source of dietary fiber, zinc, protein and healthy fats.
Despite how healthy pumpkin is, only offer it to your flock in moderation. Give them one pumpkin every other day, not one pumpkin three times a day. Ingesting large quantities of pumpkin creates an imbalance in your flock’s diet, as the chickens will be too full to eat their feed and will thus miss out on nutrients necessary for their health and development.
Jack-O’-Lanterns
Since these traditional Halloween decorations spend most of their time outside and are exposed to the elements through their assorted openings, it stands to reason that carved pumpkins are the first to show signs of decay.
If you plan on giving your flock a jack-o’-lantern snack, do so no later than November 2. Should your neighbors offer their used jack-o’-lanterns for your chickens, thank them then, like any parent on Halloween, inspect any treat before letting your feathered kids eat it.
First, remove any stickers, googly eyes and other detachable embellishments from the pumpkin’s outer shell. Next, inspect the interior and remove any candle-wax remnants.
While candle wax is non-toxic, it can include artificial colors and fragrances that should not be ingested by chickens. Some candles even contain citronella to keep insects away from the pumpkin’s exposed interior. It’s in your birds’ best interest to simply remove all candle wax.
Then, check for signs of rot. Thump the outside of the gourd. It should still be strong and hard, not soft and falling in on itself. Sniff the inside for any funkiness beyond the scent of pumpkin guts. If the outer shell has softened or there’s any discoloration, mottling, or other visible sign—or scent—of decay, consign the jack-o’-lantern to the compost pile.
Can Chickens Eat Pumpkins? Yes. They Love Whole Pumpkins!
Uncarved pumpkins, especially those pumpkins grown in your garden, are an extra-special treat for your chickens since all the tasty pulp and delicious seeds are still intact inside. Uncarved pumpkins last longer than those that have been cut and carved, but it’s still important to inspect any pumpkins destined for your chicken run.
As with the jack-o’-lanterns, remove any decorations from the outer shell. Thump it all around to check the shell’s integrity. A healthy pumpkin should sound like a small drum when thumped. Carefully feel the exterior for any signs of softening and look for mottling, discoloration or holes that insects may have made.
If everything checks out, you can go ahead and present your pumpkin to the chickens whole. After a few moments spent eyeing the orange intruder, they’ll begin to peck at the shell. A better method would be to cut it in half or into wedges, so your birds can tear right into the good stuff.
Pumpkin Seeds
Chickens adore pumpkin seeds. They’ll gobble them up fresh out of the pumpkin. The next time you carve a jack-o’-lantern, have a container ready to receive the seeds and stringy pumpkin guts. Your chickens will love you for it.
There’s no need to rinse the seeds or roast them … fresh is perfectly fine. If you have indeed roasted your pumpkin seeds, your chickens will still eat them. Just make sure no flavorings like salt, sugar or spices have been added to the roasted pumpkin seeds. There’s also no need to peel the seeds, whether fresh or roasted. Chickens will eat the outer shell as well as the seed (the pepita) contained within.
This article about can chickens eat pumpkins was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
A shade cloth for plants can increase water retention and improve circulation among plants.
When temperatures exceed 90 °F, plants get stressed—even warm-season crops. Once heat sets in, flower production reduces, buds shrivel up and the plant spends its energy on survival rather than production.
Providing your plants with shade is the most effective way to reduce stress. There are several options for doing this, ranging from very expensive to next to nothing. Shade cloths can be purchased from several websites and garden stores, and will perform well to protect your plants.
You can select the percentage of sun rays filtered through the cloth. Most vegetable gardeners choose a 30 to 40 percent cloth. These allow the sun’s rays and raindrops to still reach the plant to continue its growth.
DIY a Low-Cost Solution
You can also find also several quick and free resources around your house. If you only need to shade a few days at a time, a DIY option may be a great choice that will save you money.
First, you need to understand that every shade cloth system needs posts, cloth and clips. Here are some common items you may already have in your possession to use:
Shades: umbrellas, white sheets, mesh fabric, tulle, burlap, curtains (everything from sheer to blackout could work), bug netting
Clips: clothespins, twist ties, chip clips, binder clips, zip ties, twine, metal clips, staples
Shade Color
Should you use light or dark-colored shades? According to All About Gardening, it depends, but either will probably work:
“Lighter-colored shade cloth can cause rays of light to refract, redirecting some of the light away from our plants. Darker-colored shade cloth simply prevents the sun’s light from fully reaching the plants by absorbing the light. In both cases, it reduces the sunlight that’s directly reaching the plants—and for some species, particularly shade-loving plants, a denser shade cloth can be the only way to grow those plants at certain times of year.”
Make Your Own Shade Cloth for Plants
To make your own shade cloth, follow these steps for assembly:
Measure all posts to make sure they are the same size and will be tall enough to keep the cloth off of the plants.
Hammer down the posts.
Measure the cloth to reach the posts. Consider if you need to tactfully drape one side depending on the evening sun.
Staple or clip the cloth into place on the posts.
Observe that the shade is correctly placed to create shade at various times in the day.
When installing your shade cloth, keep these things in mind:
The cloth needs to hover above the plant. If it touches or smothers the plant, that increases heat.
Be aware of the wind. Gusts of wind will come under the cloth and try to lift it, so secure all loose areas.
Continue to water plants under the shade cloth. Check the soil once or twice a day to make sure it is not getting too dry.
All plants need sunlight to grow. Don’t overpower your shade cloth by blocking too much sun or leaving it on the plants during rainy, cloudy days.
Heat-tolerant plants thrive in 80 to 90 degrees and really shouldn’t be covered until temps reach 95 or higher.
This article about making a shade cloth for plants was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Rosemary salt is easy to make year-round and the addition of lemon creates a flavor profile that’s good for cooking, popcorn, cocktails and more.
During the winter and early spring, my rosemary is the only herb that I still have growing in the garden. Fortunately, it’s my favorite herb. Rosemary is a versatile herb that pairs well with sweet as well as savory dishes, on light and dark meats, and on many types of vegetables. One way I love to use rosemary is as an herbal salt.
Herbal salts are a cinch to put together with any type of herb. In the summer, I make herbal salts with basil, chives, parsley or any fresh culinary herb I have growing in the garden. They are wonderful to keep on hand on your spice rack. My favorite flavor combination for making herbal salt with rosemary is lemon and garlic.
How to Make Herbal Salt
Use this method to make savory herbal salts with any type of herbs. Substitute the garlic for shallots or the lemon for lime (depending on the flavor combination you prefer).
Debbie Wolfe
Ingredients
2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary
zest of 1 lemon
1 large garlic clove, peeled and smashed
1 cup kosher salt
Debbie Wolfe
Preparation
Wash and dry the sprigs of rosemary.
Strip the leaves from the rosemary.
Place the kosher salt, rosemary sprigs, lemon zest and garlic clove into a food processor.
Pulse the food processor a few times until the rosemary, lemon and garlic are finely chopped and incorporated into the salt.
Spread the salt onto a cookie sheet and let it dry for 2-3 hours.
Store the lemon rosemary salt in an airtight container. Use the salt within a week or two.
How to Use Lemon Rosemary Salt
Use the salt on roasted poultry, sprinkle it on popcorn, toss it onto root veggies or rim a glass with it for a Bloody Mary. Make an extra jar or two—herbal salts make great gifts for friends and family.
Lemon balm benefits are numerous. It is an easy-to-grow herb in the garden. It spreads quickly in the landscape and can be grown from seed or as a start from another gardener. It is a quick spreader, so most gardeners are happy to give a few starts to new growers.
Lemon balm’s scientific name is appropriately Melissa officinalis. Named for Melissa, the Greek god of honeybees, lemon balm’s tiny flowers are beloved by honeybees and other smaller pollinators, as well as herbalists and tea drinkers alike!
Growing Lemon Balm
Lemon balm loves a sunny location and can thrive in both dry and wet conditions. It will sow itself and form clumping patches outward from the original plant. It takes so little care to flourish that many have been known to thin it from their herb beds or landscaping.
To cultivate for bulk, young plants can be trimmed like any mint, removing the top three to four sets of leaves to make your first infusion. Then, while that infusion steeps (for a few weeks or more), the plant will grow bushier, making more medicine for you to harvest in the weeks’ time that your extraction steeps.
The lemony flavor appeals to almost every palate, making it an easy tea to serve company and anyone wary of plant tea, including children. It can soothe a cold, a fever and other common everyday ailments! It brings a dose of sunny disposition during long winter nights.
Lemon Balm Benefits
Lemon balm has so many uses that it’s easy to understand why the herb has been popular for so long and why people might carry it from place to place. It has no contraindications and is safe for children. Its daily use over time can help with chronic anxiety. And a strong dose will clear a headache almost immediately.
Lemon balm can help relax our whole system without sedating, making things like menstrual cramps and stress more manageable.
It has antiviral qualities and has been found specific to some herpes. Some friends of mine have successfully used it topically for cold sores and internally to prevent outbreaks. Although an alcohol preparation applied to an open sore is not pleasant, it has been shown to restore the myelin sheath of our nerves. A handful of plants have this ability, and lemon balm is probably the most abundant of them all.
Preparing Lemon Balm
Lemon balm is known as a rare essential oil due to its difficulty of extraction. The organic compounds, which bring both its smells and flavors, readily fall off the plant with both heat and mechanical disturbance.
I make a three- to four-times-infused alcohol extraction. You do this by covering freshly cut leaves, stems and flowering parts as tightly packed as possible with 95 percent alcohol. I let that steep for at least a week or two, straining and then repacking the strained extraction with more plant material. Repeating this another time or two will get you a stronger extraction that’s effective in lower doses.
Extraction is a fairly laborious project, so I more often use my lemon balm immediately upon harvest, whether drying or freshly infusing.
Make lemon balm a staple in your cupboard or medicine cabinet.
This article about lemon balm benefits was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
It’s good to know the best herbs for chickens to help ease them through molting and support their bodies while they’re hard at work regrowing their feathers.
Every year, starting in mid to late summer, adult chickens go through an annual molt. This natural process allows chickens to shed their old, broken, dirty feathers, and regrow fresh new feathers before the chill of winter sets in. These brand-new feathers help chickens stay warmer throughout the winter and survive until spring.
The molting process is a stressful experience for chickens. And the process is painful, for the chickens as well as the chicken keeper. During molt, many birds look like they were on the losing end of a nasty bar fight. They often lose feathers in large patches, act lethargic and depressed, and skulk around the yard like they’re trying to avoid being seen by anyone they know.
Thankfully, we can support them through this process. Here’s our best herbs for chickens in molt list…
1. Chickweed
Heather Levin
Chickweed is an unassuming spring weed that you’ve likely walked past a hundred times without giving it a second glance. However, this innocuous “weed” can be a marvelous snack to your chickens while they’re molting.
Chickens love the flavor (hence the name, “chickweed”), and the plant is high in vitamins A and C, as well as B vitamins, calcium, magnesium and zinc. It’s also a powerful anti-inflammatory and helps the body feel refreshed and rejuvenated, particularly after a long, cold winter.
The challenge with feeding your chickens chickweed during molt is that this is an herb that typically only grows in the cool days of early spring. Once the hot summer sun blazes, it disappears. And your chickens will be molting in fall. So, what can you do?
The answer lies with your freezer. Chick-weed freezes well, so harvest chickweed in spring, freeze it and then dole it out to your chickens once they start to molt. I do this every year, as we have an abundance of chickweed that grows on our property, and it’s always a special treat for the chickens.
2. Basil
In addition to tasting divine, basil is a good source of protein and vitamin K, a mild sedative, and is helpful in treating stress, nervousness and irritability. Sounds like the perfect herb for a molting chicken to me!
Basil is best used fresh, as it loses much of its flavor and medicinal properties upon drying. One of the best ways to preserve basil is to freeze it with olive oil when it’s at its summer peak.
To do this, grab a handful of basil out of the garden and finely chop it. Stuff the basil into an ice cube tray, and then fill each cube with olive oil. Stick it in the freezer until it’s completely frozen, then pop out the cubes and store them in a freezer bag.
You can give your chickens these basil cubes frozen or thaw them and put them in a food dish. These basil cubes are also an excellent way to preserve fresh basil for winter soups and spaghetti sauce!
3. Calendula
Calendula is famous for its ability to repair skin, promote cellular repair, and combat infection. It’s often used topically in salves, but you can serve your chickens fresh or dried calendula in their feed.
This is another herb that’s easy and wonderful to grow at home. It’s also much more cost-effective than buying dried calendula from a retailer. Another benefit to feeding your chickens calendula is that it will turn egg yolks and your chicken’s feet and beaks a deep, rich yellow.
4. Red Clover
Red clover grows wild throughout most of the country during the summer months. And this pretty little weed offers a wide range of medicinal and nutritional benefits that you can take advantage of when your chickens are molting.
Red clover is an excellent cleanser of the blood. It’s also high in beta-carotene, calcium, vitamin C and minerals such as magnesium, copper and zinc. Think of it as a little vitamin for your flock!
You can offer your chickens fresh or dried red clover blossoms. However, if you live in a northern climate, most red clover will be past its prime by the time your chickens start their fall molt.
To overcome this, forage for red clover when it’s at its peak, and dry the blossoms yourself. Choose flowers that are bright pink, and avoid harvesting any blossoms that have turned brown.
5. Chamomile
Chamomile is a sweet, gentle herb perfect for the molting season, for several reasons.
First, chamomile is a calming herb that excels in alleviating stress and nervousness, especially when it’s prepared fresh. It’s also anti-inflammatory.
You can give your chickens dried chamomile mixed in with their feed. Or, you can make a pot of chamomile tea and give it to them in place of regular water once it has cooled.
6. Stinging Nettle
Stinging nettle’s scientific name is Urtica dioca. It comes from the Latin word uro, which means “to burn.” And if you’ve ever touched stinging nettle, you’ve felt the burn!
We have stinging nettle growing all over our homestead. I planted it right after we moved in, and it has grown and spread like gangbusters. Our neighbors wonder why we welcome such a painful plant onto our homestead, but we use nettle for so many different things that it’s worth the occasional sting.
So where do we start with nettle? It’s an anti-inflammatory powerhouse and can work wonders to control allergies. It’s also delicious when cooked or made as a tea with honey. Many people also use it to alleviate arthritic pain.
Nettle is beneficial during molt because it’s high in iron. It’s also rich in other vitamins and minerals such as vitamins C, A and K, as well as several B vitamins. It also contains calcium, phosphorus and all essential amino acids.
It’s important to realize that your chickens won’t willingly eat fresh, raw nettle. It stings their tongues! There are a few different ways you can give your chickens the benefits of nettle without doing them harm.
One way is to dry the herb and crumble it into their feed. Drying, as well as cooking, causes the stinging hairs to fall off and renders it harmless. You can sautée nettle or bake it into a frittata with other fresh herbs. Or you can steep nettle in hot water for 30 minutes to make a nettle tea and give it to your chickens in place of water.
If you choose to sautée it for your flock, taste it yourself before you give it all away. Sautéed nettle is delicious, and you might decide to start cooking it for your family.
7. Lemon Balm
Lemon balm is a sunny, citrusy herb in the mint family that’s well known as a relaxing nervine. And during the stressful molting season, your chickens can greatly benefit from herbs and any other calming aid you can give them.
Although many herbs are potent when dried, lemon balm is one that’s best to use fresh whenever you can. Lemon balm contains beneficial volatile oils that are often lost when dried, especially when handled incorrectly. So growing this easy, cheerful herb at home is a fantastic way to ensure you always have quality lemon balm when you need it.
One way to help your chickens relax is to make a tea using fresh lemon balm. Cut up 4 tablespoons of fresh leaves and steep, covered, in 20 ounces of hot water for 30 minutes. Pour the cooled tea into your chickens’ watering dish. You can also put fresh lemon balm in their water to soak throughout the day.
Support the Immune System
Molting is a stressful process for chickens and their bodies are taxed while they’re regrowing feathers. This means that their immune system won’t be as robust as it is during normal times. So, providing chickens with immune-boosting herbs and spices can help prevent illness and disease during molting.
Some beneficial herbs and spices to mix into feed for your chickens when they’re molting include turmeric, fresh garlic, oregano, thyme, cinnamon and fresh ginger.
Keep in mind that the duration of the molt is going to be different for each bird. Some chickens will molt hard and fast and have a complete set of new feathers in a month. Others take eight to 12 weeks or more to go through their molt.
A rare few, typically poor layers, can take up to six months to go through the molting process. However, because these molts are so slow you might not even be able to tell that they’re losing feathers.
So your birds might need extra support for longer than you think! Keep an eye on their progress as they transition through their molts, and switch them back to regular layer feed when they start laying again.
Magic Molting Frittata
Here’s a helpful recipe for herbs to feed your chickens during molting season.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a 12-inch cast iron skillet, pour the olive oil to coat.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, plant-based milk, garlic cloves, turmeric and oregano. Fold in the fresh herbs and sunflower seeds.
Pour the egg and herb mixture in the skillet.
Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the eggs are completely set in the middle. Let cool completely, and serve to your flock.
This article about the best herbs for chickens during molting originally appeared in the Sept./Oct. 2023 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Nasuha Lenuh talks about small-scale farming in the tropics.
Small-scale farmer and entrepreneur Nasuha Lenuh — nicknamed R — talks about the tree crops grown in her region, the southern part of Thailand. Hear about her family’s tree crops, from rubber to durian fruit, and how R has chosen her own path in developing Rganic Farm, including herbs, salad greens and edible flowers. R shares this journey, being honest about her family’s and community’s feelings about her attempt at growing crops that others just aren’t attempting in this area.
R talks about her elevated raised beds, which she said go together like Legos so she can move them as the durian tree crops around them grow tall. She also talks about her experience as a woman farmer in Thailand and why this profession is important to her.
Based on her experience of growing temperate-climate crops in a tropical climate, R explains a secret of her success: patience in soil building.
Hear about the Young Southeast Asian Leaders Initiative, hosted by the US State Department, which awarded R a fellowship that brought her to the US to study food systems (and then allowed the Hobby Farms Presents: Growing Good host Lisa Munniksma to visit Thailand through a reciprocal fellowship). R explains Kotatuera Basar Kita, the YSEALI project she’s working on now, to develop farmers and bring an American-style farmers market to her community in Yala, Thailand. R and Lisa also talk about what it’s been like to work together on this project both in the U.S. and in Thailand.
What is molting? Seasoned backyard chicken owners know when their flock experiences molting. But, if you’re a first-time backyard chicken owner, it can be startling to see your birds losing feathers in the fall. Molting is an interesting, yet natural, process that can also be very stressful to the animals. This article takes a deep dive into the process of molting and how poultry owners can help alleviate some of the associated stress for their beloved chickens.
What Is Molting?
Simply put, molting is a physiological process that occurs in avian species where they shed and replace their feathers. Molting is mainly regulated by various hormonal changes within the body and usually involves a period where the reproductive system stops.
During this time, birds typically lose and regrow their feathers in a gradient. They lose from the innermost feathers first to the outermost feathers last.
Why Molt?
The primary reason birds molt is to keep their feathers functioning well. Feathers play a very dynamic role in a chicken’s life. They help regulate temperature; protect birds from scratches, wounds and cannibalism; are used to communicate and attract a mate; and are indicators of a bird’s health.
Research has shown that molting can be beneficial to a chicken’s health and improve egg quality. Photoperiod-induced molting has been shown to increase livability in laying hens (Brake and Thaxton, 1982) and to improve egg production and egg quality (Koelkebeck and Anderson, 2007).
The reduction or pausing of egg production gives a hen’s reproductive tract time to rejuvenate, resulting in stronger eggs and better production. Plus, without molting, a bird’s lack of feather shedding and regrowth would lead to poor plumage, which is associated with fearfulness and stress and chickens.
When Does Molting Occur?
Avian species typically molt during any time they require a healthy plumage, such as breeding season, wintertime or migration. The time of the year in which a molt occurs can help determine if it is related more to a natural molting or can be attributed to stress.
Natural molt in chickens occurs seasonally, during the fall, where the primary trigger is a reduction in day length. This decrease in day length changes the bird’s circadian rhythm, which triggers a variety of physiological processes such as reduced reproductive function and molting of feathers. In migratory birds, it would increase fattening and induce some restlessness. On the flip side, in the spring, when day length gets longer, the reproductive tract increases egg production and therefore we don’t typically see chickens molt.
So, a strong relationship exists between molting, day length and egg production. In fact, ducks and chickens that have been sterilized tend to stay in an extended state of molt. When sex hormones are supplemented, however, molting stops.
Broody hens can also experience a natural molt. When a hen becomes broody (starts to sit and incubate her eggs), she typically reduces her feed and water intake. Research on broody jungle fowl hens found that hens consumed very little food or water during this time even if it was offered near the nest. (Weight loss and anorexia during incubation in birdsJournal of Comparative and Physiological Psychology, 1980, Sherry et al.).
The lack of egg laying and voluntary anorexia results in shedding and replacement of feathers, suggesting broody hens can also experience a molt. Once chicks hatch, a broody jungle fowl hen will resume eating and drinking, and her feathers will grow back.
Stress-related molt occurring at other times of the year can be associated with inadequate nutrient intake or severe stress. Molt can also be induced with water and feed restriction, which is why we may see some molting during the summer.
Flock Assistance
Support your flock during their annual molt with the following tips.
More Protein
Feed more protein, especially sources rich in cysteine. Feathers are made up of about 80 percent protein and represent about 3 to 6 percent of a chicken’s total body weight.
Proteins are made of building blocks known as amino acids. Cysteine is typically the most limited amino acid during feather synthesis so supplementation can help speed up feather regrowth. Cysteine is also important because it forms bonds within the feathers that make them durable and resistant to wear and tear.
Support Digestion & Immunity
Typically, issues in feather quality at any time of the year are often the result of a poor diet or lack of nutrient utilization. Ensuring molting chickens can digest and absorb the nutrients they need for feather regrowth is key.
Molting has also been shown to suppress the immune system in chickens and is associated with an increase in pathogenic bacteria, such as salmonella. Providing molting birds with supplements that strengthen the immune system and support the digestive tract can ensure they remain healthy during this stressful period.
Comfort Is Key
Make them comfortable and reduce stress. During feather regrowth, a chicken’s skin becomes more sensitive. This sensitivity typically peaks at eight to 11 days after the start of a molt. Plus, molting is a time when chickens are more vulnerable and, in some breeds, this can lead to more aggression and stress.
We can help reduce stress by minimizing handling during molt to help limit injury and discomfort, and continuing to provide care like offering fresh water and feed even if they aren’t consuming a lot. Plus, if you notice a molting hen getting picked on, isolating her from the flock can help prevent further injury.
That’s molting in a nutshell. When your flock molts this year to replace damaged or broken feathers for their protection and health, hopefully, you feel better equipped to support them so they are revitalized and stronger for the months ahead.
Mikayla Baxter, Ph.D., is the Digestive Health Products Manager at Perdue Animal Nutrition. This article about what is molting originally appeared in the Sept./Oct. 2023 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
