Categories
Urban Farming

Flooding Poses Threat to Urban Gardens

Flooded tree

While trees have a greater tolerance to flooding, other garden plants may not do so well if under water for prolonged amounts of time.

As hurricane season gears up, urban gardeners need to protect their vegetables and flowers from heavy rains. Flooding can devastate urban areas and cause a lot of damage to gardens and the landscape.

“A single day of flooding may take many months to repair,” says Jeff Rugg, a horticulturist from the University of Illinois Cooperative Extension. “Flooding in the man-made landscape mimics flooding in the natural landscape, where land that is under water regularly has little vegetation and almost no debris.”

Gardens that experience flooding tend to turn into mud flats that easily erode because most plants don’t survive under water, according to Rugg.

Other materials that prevent erosion, like mulch, are washed up to the high-water mark, so gardeners who experience flooding in their garden will need to replace their mulch.

“If mulch is washed away, it’s a good idea to replace it so the flower beds don’t dry out in the hot weather after the storms and to help prevent weed growth,” he says.

Flood waters will also cause damage to plants.

“Fast-moving water smashes down plants and breaks or cracks their stems and branches, so they cannot straighten up. This is especially true of plants without wooden stems,” Rugg says.

Annual flowers and vegetable crops that are ruined in floods may need to be replaced, Rugg recommends. Perennial plants can be propped up to facilitate growth for the following year, and shrubs and trees can be staked until they regain strength.

When the top of a plant is under water, the plant has a hard time maintaining the proper level of moisture within its leaves and stems. When the plant eventually dries out, some leaves may die off. The longer the plant was under water the worse the damage will be.

Mud that coats the leaves will reduce the plant’s ability to photosynthesize, so wash off any mud-coated leaves.

Soil must have oxygen in it for most terrestrial plant roots to survive. Waterlogged soil doesn’t have enough available oxygen for many dry-land plants. For some big trees, the damage may not appear for several weeks or months. Plants that are native to stream banks and near lakeshores can tolerate low levels of oxygen in the soil. Some maples are especially good at tolerating periodic flooding.

“Because of the way we change the topography of the land, many plants have been placed in areas where they can be harmed by flooding,” he said. “The longer the water is over the roots, the more potential there is for damage.”

Most trees and shrubs will survive under surface water for a few days. However, one to two weeks of water covering the plants’ roots could cause stress, leading to problems in the plant the following year. Longer-standing surface water can kill flood-intolerant plants. 

As water is released from retention ponds, water levels may remain artificially high. Trees around the edges of retention ponds should be flood tolerant, but Rugg has seen many instances where this was not the case.

“Overall, there will not be a long-lasting effect on the landscape from localized flooding if it doesn’t last more than a few days and is a rare occurrence,” says Rugg. “Unfortunately, some areas are flooded longer and more often because of land upstream that is being changed from rural to urban. If there is more flooding to come to an area, especially in the few weeks after a previous flood, watch out for drowned plants.”

A simple rule of thumb to remember is that if a plant doesn’t normally grow on the edge of a lake or in a swamp, it won’t do well in a flood. The longer a plant is under water the worse it will do. Slow growers or weakened plants will have a harder time recovering from flood damage.

Categories
Urban Farming

Rucola and Basilico

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Photo by Rick Gush

We are busy harvesting arugula this season.

Rucola (arugula)

This is high season for rucola (arugula) and we’re harvesting every few days. Collecting arugula takes a bit of time because each leaf has to be harvested individually, but the result is worth the results. Actually, we grow two different types of arugula: the wild variety that self seeds, shows up every spring and lasts until the summer heat; and another type called “cultivated” arugula that we seed in fall and harvest for most of the winter.

Cultivated arugula can out-yield wild arugula by more than double. While the wild stuff just shows up wherever it feels like, the cultivated crop can be nicely contained within a single planting zone.

The leaves on the wild arugula that we’re harvesting now are leaner than the cultivated variety, but the flavor can be more intense. The older leaves underneath the new growth are particularly crunchy and delicious. The wild variety also has the advantage of being pest-free, while the cultivated type is bothered by a fungal disease that can disfigure the leaves with lots of little yellow pustules.

Obviously, we’re big arugula eaters. In colder weather, my wife makes pizzas in the oven, and we wouldn’t think of eating pizza without generous helpings of arugula as a topping. During warmer weather, we eat a lot of salads, and the arugula serves as the greens base, with or without additional lettuce greens mixed in. In the in-between months, my wife often makes pesto with arugula instead of basil. This makes for a really tasty pesto that we use to flavor pasta or simply to spread on bread for sandwiches.

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Photo by Rick Gush

Our 16 big-leaved green basil plants just don’t seem to be enough for our basil usage.

Basilica (basil)

This is also the beginning of the summer basilica (basil) season, so we harvest basil to make pesto often. It takes a fair amount of basil to make a batch of pesto, so we grow a number of different plants in order to be able to harvest large quantities frequently.

This year we’re growing 16 basil plants, all the same big-leaved, green type. I often think this is not enough. Unfortunately basil seems to prefer rich soil with a bit of shade, and we don’t really have a place for more basil plants. Maybe this winter I can think ’bout making some new planting areas specifically for the basil crop.

We’ve tried growing a bunch of the other basils like the little-leaved “Greek” variety, the dark-leaved types and the various lemon- and other-flavored basils. But for sheer bulk of harvestable foliage (which is what we want), the big-leaved green type is our preference.

I don’t even seed the basil any longer, because I like the 6- inch pots with clumps of basil seeded in a greenhouse. These thick clumps pack more harvestable foliage into a small area. The plants do not grow nearly as tall as single specimens, but the percentage of prime harvestable leaves is much higher.

Read more of Rick’s Favorite Crops »

Categories
Crops & Gardening

Rain in July

broccoli
Photo by Jessica Walliser

The broccoli is already packaged in the
freezer to enjoy this winter.

July.  And still the rain hasn’t stopped.  Never has the back yard remained such a soggy, muddy mess for such a long time.  I’m getting tired of wiping dog paws

The garden, too, has suffered from this smooshy, waterlogged soil. 

I have a bunch of perennials in the lowest corner of the garden that are completely wilted, looking much like they are in need of water when in fact quite the opposite is occurring—too much water is starving the roots of oxygen and making the plants wilt.  It’s kind of sad.  I’m worried about the peonies that are there. 

I’m thinking the thick, fleshy roots may end up with rot; but I don’t want to move them right now because summertime relocation almost always spells death for peonies.  So I’m crossing my fingers for a drier July (ha, there is a wish I never thought I’d make!)

On the upside (cause there always is one, right?), the sugar snap peas have been phenomenal this year. 

They never make it into the kitchen, though, since we tend to eat them all right off the plant and that’s OK since cooked sugar snaps just don’t do it for me.  Fresh is so much better.  The broccoli, too, has done extremely well.  I’ve managed to freeze several bags for winter use. 

And it certainly has been nice to not have to water all the containers … not even once have I had to lug the hose out to quench their thirst. 

Momma Nature has helped me big time on that one.  My front porch railing planters have always required a daily dousing but not this year.  I’m thankful for that since watering them requires toting dripping watering cans through the house and out the front door. 

Another good thing all this rain has brought about is the perfect excuse for all the weeds. 

When guests come, it’s easy to say “Please excuse all the weeds.  With so much rain this year, they are just taking over.  And, it’s been really difficult to find a dry time to get out in the garden to pull them.” 

If the guest is a gardening friend, they’ll nod their head in agreement, knowing full well the very same words will come out of their mouth the next time a friend shows up at their door.     

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Categories
Urban Farming

Pick Your Own

Raspberries

Photo by Judith Hausman

Raspberries are the “queen of berries” in my opinion, and I get mine from Amawalk Farm in New York.

I’ve always loved the view from the berry patch at The Hickories. The gentle hills fold down from the ridge (just over the Connecticut line from me in Ridgefield) and over the treetops. First, I go to pick deep scarlet strawberries for shortcake, later for easy-to-reach blueberries for pancakes. Big hickory trees line the stone walls, a peach orchard graces the next field over and there’s an apple and quince orchard too across the road. Dina lets me pick the knotty yellow quince late in the season to cook down to a deep-red jam, which is especially good served with cheese.

Berry farm

Photo by Judith Hausman

A view of The Hickories and grandma’s red tractor

Dina Brewster is the long-legged young farmer here. Her dad, uncle, grandma and grandpa were weekend farmers. After an Ivy League education, a stint in the Philippines with the Peace Corps and six years of teaching high school English in the Bronx, the tug of the farm on her was finally too strong to ignore. Because of her family, The Hickories has miraculously survived the suburbanization of the rest of the town. The Farmingville School up the road reminds you what the neighborhood used to be like, starting probably from when Governor Lounsbury built the white farmhouse on the property in 1764.

Dina also strives to rebuild a nearly-gone farming support infrastructure here. She uncovered a mechanic that could fix her grandmother’s 1959 Massey Ferguson tractor and the one butcher in the area that can kill her livestock. Her CSA has grown quickly, and she supports her local economy by adding local bread and cheese shares and running a pig, turkey and beef lottery in the fall. All this is in a community that also hosts an oil exploration R&D facility and a pharmaceutical company headquarters, along with many young family homes, strong schools and small businesses.

Secret Weapon:

Other than the jam, I usually don’t cook the precious raspberries. They are better enjoyed un-messed-with. But I can recommend putting up raspberry cordial from 1 quart of berries, 2 cups of sugar and 1 pint of vodka. Just combine these in a clean jar and leave it all alone in the dark for two to four weeks; then strain out the spent berries. The alcohol steals and preserves The True Berry for you to enjoy long after the berry canes are picked over and emptied.

For early-bearing raspberries, the queen of berries in my opinion, I’ll head over to Amawalk Farm in Katonah, N.Y., in July. This is another suburban farm with a great story and located hard by the commuter train line. Marian has a PhD and Larry has an MPH and a day job. Who would have thought an Emmy-award winning TV producer from New York and a health care specialist from Maine would end up married and farming together? The Crosses decided to put the land that surrounds Marian’s former weekend retreat to work.

The antique 1825 farmhouse is tucked into a hollow surrounded by public lands and the sloped field that holds the wide raspberry patches looks out on forested hills. To prepare the meadow for raspberries, Larry cleared 150 trees, innumerable buckets of rocks and tangles of barberry, and then planted 1,500 plants in the spring of 2006 and 500 more in 2009. The former dairy barn is hung with 700 pounds of garlic, their second crop, and a vegetable prepping area is housed in the former calving barn. Larry puzzled it out for their squash, salad greens, hot peppers, flowers and other crops, which they sell to a few local stores and direct to U-pick customers.

Working romantically together in this second “career,” Larry and Marian have created a food-producing, organic oasis, filled with bees too busy to bother you, and a heavenly setting to pick the tender, tart berries. Kids from area schools and daycare visit regularly too, gardening carefully and learning where good nutrition comes from.

Of course, there are setbacks: Last year the tomato plague wiped out that sought-after crop for everyone around here and then after a gangbuster start, a raspberry fungus shut down Amawalk picking about five weeks early. I was lucky; I picked enough for a luxurious batch of jam that brings back the smell and the heat of the day that I picked the berries just perfectly.

Read more of The Hungry Locavore »

Categories
News

Remove Poison Hemlock From Forage

Poison hemlock
Courtesy Oregon State University/
Clint Shock

Poison hemlock is an invasive weed that is poisonous to livestock when ingested, so keep it out of your hay and pastures.

Many farmers across the country are in the midst of making their first hay of the season. While making hay, it’s important for farmers to notice and remove traces of poison hemlock from their hay or pasture fields.

Native to Europe, poison hemlock is an invasive weed that was introduced as an ornamental plant in the United States during the 1800s. Poison hemlock is potentially poisonous if ingested by livestock (such as goats) or humans in both its vegetative growth stages and when dry.

“This is a classic example of one invasive plant problem that has gotten out of hand, but people may not be as alarmed about it as with other invasive plants because they may not know what it is,” said J. D. Green, extension weed scientist with the University of Kentucky’s College of Agriculture. “There are no state laws that mandate control of it by landowners or along rights-of-way areas.”

Poison hemlock is often found along fencerows, roadways and other areas not used for cropland across the United States. However, in the past several years, poison hemlock’s presence has increased and is now found more frequently in some hay and pasture fields.

If consumed, poison hemlock’s poisoning symptoms appear rather quickly and include nervousness, trembling, muscle weakness, loss of coordination, pupil dilation, coma and eventually death from respiratory failure. While livestock typically refrain from eating poison hemlock in its natural growing state because of its unpalatable taste, they will eat it if no other forage is available or when consuming hay.

Poison hemlock is often confused with Queen Anne’s lace, a nontoxic wildflower. Both plants produce leaves and clusters of small, white flowers that look somewhat similar. However, poison hemlock has smooth stems with purple spots while Queen Anne’s lace has hair along its stem and leaf bases. Peak bloom for poison hemlock is in late May and early June, whereas Queen Anne’s Lace is just beginning to produce flowers at that time.

Ideally, farmers can control poison hemlock with herbicide products, such as 2, 4-D, applied during the plant’s vegetative growth stage in the late winter or early spring or with an herbicide treatment in the fall. Because it’s too late this season to make an application and the plants are in full bloom, growers can still control poison hemlock by mowing the plant before it produces new seeds, which occurs soon after flowering.

Forage producers who find poison hemlock in their fields will want to either mow around the weed when cutting hay or mow and separate it from the other forages.

Categories
Farm Management

10 Tips for Starting a Canned-food Business

Canned pickles
A great way to be successful in your canning business is to start small. If your canned-food specialty is dill pickles, start there and expand later.

Do canning jars and garden abundance line every inch of your kitchen counter space during the harvest season? Is the “plink plink” sound of lids sealing music to your ears?  Do your friends and family arm-wrestle over your sweet pickles, peach salsa or other canned-food specialties? These may be strong signs of a fledgling canning business, blending your passion for preserving with a viable farm-based income source.

One appealing advantage of starting a canned-food business is it can strategically add to your farm’s income mix. By starting small and experimenting with produce you already have readily available, you can enable your canning business to grow and develop strategically according to your priorities. 

Just as you organize all your jars, produce and ingredients before you start canning a batch of pickles, assemble the key ingredients for your business’ success. Here are 10 tips to get you started:

1. Be State Regulation Savvy
The good news: An increasing number of states today support “cottage food industries,” legislating requirements that make it more accessible for small food entrepreneurs to get started. To support such micro-businesses, many states have passed or are in process of passing laws that enable specific forms of canned items to be processed for sale in a home kitchen rather than needing to rent or invest in commercial kitchen space.

The more complicated news: These laws vary tremendously by state and can change at any time. It remains your responsibility as a business owner to research and understand all aspects of your state’s laws. A state’s department of agriculture, health or commerce is typically the agency that enforces these laws. Call your local extension office for first-step guidance. 

Canning business
Courtesy Stock.XCHNG
Share the details of your canning business with customers so they can get to know you and your canned product better. Start a blog or share your favorite recipe.

2. Start Your Canning Business Small
Instead of jumping full-force into your start-up canning businessand investing in equipment and committing to multiple farmers’ markets, start small and harvest learning along the way.  You may find you don’t like the weekend market schedule because it takes too much time away from your family and you’d rather focus on having a booth at a few larger events. 

3. Develop Your Canning Niche
Think out of the strawberry jam and dill pickle jar. The American palette and food preferences constantly evolve with an increasing number of “foodie” shoppers seeking unusual and distinct flavors. So experiment with unique flavor combinations for your canned food. Think about creating distinct “limited edition” batches that pair sweet and savory, such as pears with ginger.

4. Access Quality Canning Ingredients
You already have high-quality, fresh produce. Now, research your other canning ingredients, like sugar, and find an organic, sustainably harvested and Fair Trade option when possible. You may be able to order wholesale direct from the supplier or bulk through a local food co-op or buying club, which will bring down the cost.

5. Price Canned Food Accurately
Remember the long list of inputs that go into your canned product when setting a fair price. Don’t forget things like canning equipment, storage, transportation, marketing and, importantly, your time spent making the canned product.

6. Sell Your Canning Story
Here’s the secret to a strong marketing plan: Tell your story. Sharing your farm and explaining why your canned product is distinctly different (and better!) than the mass-produced canned food at the supermarket will draw interest to your canning business. Bring garden pictures to the farmers’ market. Start a blog to narrate your experience starting up canning business. Share your raspberry bar cookie recipe that features your jam. 

7. Manage Your Time and Resources
Keep thinking of ways to make the best use of your time to most efficiently produce your canned product. Look at the weather a week in advance, plan a sunny harvest day, and hit the kitchen for canning when it rains. Write a detailed checklist of everything you need for going to market, and identify ways to best transport your canned product, like reusing the boxes the canning jars came in.

8. Market Your Canning Business Year-round
A big benefit to canned food businesses is the ability to sell your product year-round, particularly during the holiday season when folks seek unique gifts. Identify local fall craft fairs and winter farmers’ markets that might be a good outlet for your wares.

9. Kids Can, Too
Canned-food business ventures provide abundant opportunity to instill the farmstead entrepreneurial spirit in your children. The more you involve everyone from the start—from deciding your business name to taste-testing recipes—the more skills your kids develop. Implement a profit-sharing program with your kids. Kids can make compelling salespeople at a market.

10. Share the Can-do Spirit
As you rack up business experience, mentor others in the process. The more we support each other in growing this artisan, hand-crafted, seasonal and local food movement, the more all our ventures grow.

About the Author: Lisa Kivirist is the co-author of ECOpreneuring (New Society Publishers, 2008) and Rural Renaissance (New Society Publishers, 2009) and runs Inn Serendipity Farm and Bed & Breakfast with her family in Wisconsin.

Categories
Crops & Gardening

All About Squash

Squash
There are about 825 species of squash.

Winter squash belongs to the botanical family Cucurbitaceae, which comprises 119 genera and approximately 825 species. While hardly the largest of the plant families, Cucurbitaceae is highly specialized and includes many familiar and economically important fruits and vegetables, including squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, melons, luffas and gourds.

Considered a culinary vegetable, squash isn’t really a vegetable at all. Both winter and summer squash are ovaries containing seeds and, therefore, are botanical fruits—berries, in fact. As the squash’s fruit develops and attaches below other floral parts of the plant, it’s an “epigynous” or false berry. Other false berries are banana, watermelon, blueberry and cranberry. All berries produced by the Cucurbitaceae family are labeled pepos.

Some summer and winter squash are categorized by species, but there is crossover. The distinguishing characteristic is maturity at consumption. Summer squash are eaten young, while they’re still quite perishable and their skins and seeds are soft. Winter squash are enjoyed at full maturity and have hardened shells that contribute to their long storage life.

The term “squash” is an abbreviation of the Native American Narragansett word askutasquash, which translates as “eaten raw or uncooked,” apparently a reference to zucchini. Not all English speakers use the word squash, though. In England, it’s called marrow. Some cultures use squash and pumpkin interchangeably.

About the Author:  Adrianne L. Shtop is a writer and photographer who follows the squash trail each fall from the Hudson River Valley to the Green Mountains and back.

Categories
Crops & Gardening

Crop Profile: Gourds

A brief look into the history and use of gourds
Gourds have interesting shapes and sturdy skins that give them the ability to be crafted into a number of items for the home.

Warty, curvy, gnarled and colorful, gourds seem to be created to fascinate and delight. A cousin of the squash, many people harvest or purchase gourds each fall with no purpose in mind other than to admire their artistic forms. But gourds have a long history of culinary and other uses that make them an economically important crop in many parts of the world.

Tropical in origin, gourds are considered among the earliest domesticated plants in the New World. Their cultivation dates back to 8,000 B.P. In modern times, gourds play significant medical, ritual, practical, artistic and decorative roles in many cultures.

Although they aren’t edible, ornamental gourds are productive vines. With interesting textures and forms, these fruits are most often used as decorations and are extremely prolific, with each vine yielding several gourds. Large-fruiting varieties, like Bottle (which has an edible counterpart of the same name, used in Indian cuisine), Speckled Swan and Dipper, will need extra support to prevent vines from breaking, but smaller-fruited selections won’t. Gourds can be started from seeds indoors under lights but are easily grown by direct-seeding shortly after the last spring frost. They require a soil pH of 6.5 to 7.0.

Around the world, the range of products fashioned from gourds is astounding. Their bulbous shapes and sturdy skins make them ideal for hollowing out and drying. Once dry, they’re strong and often watertight. This lends them perfectly to kitchen and garden use as bowls, bottles, scoops, cups and, of course, birdhouses. In fact, early clay pottery is thought to have been shaped to mimic gourds.

Around the home, gourds also serve as lamps, sculptures, masks, and other decorative and ritual items, the skins of which are often painted, carved or tattooed to enhance their exotic beauty. The large, spherical gourd varieties can be used as resonating chambers in percussion instruments, such as drums, or the Brazilian, single-stringed berimbau. An indigenous New Guinea culture, the Dani, used a variety of shapes and lengths of gourds as body coverings.

Read more about growing edible vines. 

About the Authors: Adrianne L. Shtop is a writer and photographer who follows the squash trail each fall from the Hudson River Valley to the Green Mountains and back.

Horticulturist Jessica Walliser dreams of growing Eastern Prince, a fruit-bearing magnolia vine, in her zone-6 garden. She is co-host of KDKA radio’s The Organic Gardeners in Pittsburgh and author of several gardening books, including Grow Organic (St. Lynn’s Press, 2007) and Good Bug Bad Bug (St. Lynn’s Press, 2008).

 

Categories
Equipment

Thunderstorm Preparation

Getting hit with Mother Nature’s fireworks show this past weekend reminded me of the importance of surge protectors in the shop. No doubt you have surge protectors on your computer and your TVs, perhaps even on your sound system. But do you have them in your shop?

 

A few years ago we had a lightning strike come down the side of a tree outside our house. It blew a hosta plant right out of the ground, but didn’t kill the tree.

 

Various random acts of electrical mayhem also occurred throughout the house. In the shop, a charger for an underground fence blew right off the wall. Other devices, including a garage door opener, also suffered electrical problems.

 

No problems were suffered by any of the three computers that were on at the time. In all three cases, they were on battery backup/surge protectors.

 

As I began the process of replacing blown parts, I was advised to get a small, plug-in surge protector for the garage door opener. It made sense, but why stop there?

 

We have a whole house surge protector in place to handle the mainline surges, but for random acts of electricity such as we experienced, individual surge protectors are a great idea.

 

With all the high-priced electrical tools and battery chargers now found in even a simple home shop, they are a really great idea.

 

Small, plug-in surge protectors are cheap and easy to find everywhere, from local hardware stores to the big box stores. I now have them on multiple outlets in the shop. No, they may not stop a direct lightning strike on the house from doing damage, but I am confident they will help with those near misses that can do plenty of damage on their own.

 

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Categories
Animals

Sam the Lamb

Sam the Lamb
Photo by Sue Weaver

Mom and Dad were really worried when Sam the lamb’s mama died. Sam was only five weeks old.

He was already nibbling grass and sampling the ewes’ yummy pellets and bagged alfalfa, but now he was all on his own. Where would he get his milk?

After Sam had time to say good-bye to his mom, Mom carried him and Dad carried Cordelia up to the little stall Mom uses as a jug for newly-lambed sheep.

Cordelia is small but already weaned, so they thought she’d make a good friend for Sam. Mom brought out her big box fan from her office and tied it in a corner so the lambs could stay cool. Cordelia liked that, but Sam was too upset to notice.

Sam cried and cried and his crying broke Mom’s heart. Then Cordelia got upset and joined in because she missed her friends, Miss Maple and Othello. It was pretty noisy around here those first few nights.

The next morning Mom tried to give Sam a bottle of milk. It didn’t work. He was afraid and struggled and struggled because he wanted his mom. Then a nice lady at Mom’s Yahoo Groups Hobby Farms Sheep list said to wait 24 hours until Sam was really hungry for milk, but to give the lambs hay and pellets in the meantime.

So that’s what they did. Sometimes it’s hard to teach a newborn lamb or kid to take a bottle but it’s much, much harder when they’ve had “the real thing.”

To help him get the idea, Dad cradled Sam in his lap, and held the bottle in one hand with the nipple steadied in Sam’s mouth; he covered Sam’s eyes with the other hand. That simulates the darkness under a mama sheep’s groin. Pretty soon Sam tried a few slurps. Mom called our dad the Lamb Whisperer. It worked!

The first few days Sam tried to scurry away when Mom or Dad came out to feed him, but as soon as he was caught and he’d fussed a bit, he was OK. Now he likes milk in a bottle. He meets Mom or Dad at the gate and grabs the nipple as soon as he can. Tonight he and Cordelia get to go back to the paddock with the other lambs and ewes. Hooray! 

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