Categories
Equipment

The Well-dressed Trimmer

What does a well-dressed weed trimmer wear?

Similar to a gentleman or lady going out on the town, dressing appropriately is key to a pleasant weed trimming experience.

Of course, long sleeves and pants go without saying, but they are just the basics. If you’re like me and you go for the ground-level cut on problematic weeds, you’re going to stir up a lot of dust and other material. That’s why it’s a good idea to wear goggles or safety glasses. I know that when I don’t, I’ll be using eyewash when I finish.

Anytime you use a high rpm motor, it is a good idea to protect your hearing. When you tuck that revved up engine within a few feet of your ears, it is doubly wise to put on the hearing protectors.

If you live in a wooded area where poison ivy is as prevalent as it is in our woods, a set of coveralls is also warranted. I have a lightweight poly one-piece that I don. Not only does it protect forearms and other body parts from flying plant juices and parts, but it is easy to remove without spreading said plant parts to bare skin.

Finally, there is face protection. Weed whips when used aggressively (is there any other way?) tend to set chunks of material in motion. I make double duty use of my chainsaw helmet/face mask. It also includes a set of hearing protectors, so it takes care of that need as well. I especially appreciate the facemask screen when I feel a bit of gravel or stick bounce off of it.

I may not be invited to pose for Esquire or anyone else, but I don’t care. I know that when I am ready to take out my botanical frustrations on the weeds, they won’t have the last laugh.

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Categories
Equipment

Whip Those Weeds Into Shape!

Whether you call them weed trimmers, line trimmers or Weed Eaters (a brand), it’s hard to deny the pleasure that comes with whipping weeds into fragments of green matter.

I’m sorry if I offend anybody by the violent images that may come to mind, but weeds tend to have the advantage, so any weapon in our war to keep them out of gardens and paths is welcome to me.

I know that to some, weeds are simply “flowers in a place we would rather they were not,” but I just spent the weekend sifting through a 10′ x 50′ terrace and slope. Until now the area had held raspberry bushes and … weeds.

My efforts included hand forking every square foot with my potato fork and picking out root clumps and root segments on my hands and knees. 

Now, I know stinging nettles are beneficial at delivering minerals from deep in the ground to the surface and grasses hold soil in place, but I would just as soon not see them return to the area any time soon. That includes the nearby periphery.

That’s why I finished the job by firing up my Stihl weed trimmer and giving the surroundings a trim. I know I spewed noxious gasses into the air and did my part for global warming, but the fact is … it felt good.

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Categories
Urban Farming

Foxy: The Urban Barn Cat

Urban barn cat

Photo by Audrey Pavia

Foxy enjoying her new life as an urban barn cat.

When Foxy was born some eight years ago in an apartment in Brooklyn, no one could have imagined she’d end up spending her senior years on an urban farm in California. Funny how things work out sometimes.
 
Foxy belonged to my mother-in-law and father-in-law, who lived in a tiny one-room studio apartment in Greenwich Village, New York City. Foxy had lived with a few other people before she found her way there, including with my brother-in-law in a relatively spacious two-bedroom in the Village until he talked his mother and stepfather into taking her. Seems Foxy was quite the handful.
 
A big, fluffy beauty, Foxy would scratch the flesh off anyone who dared to reach out to pet her. Everyone but my father-in-law, however. She came to love him and would tolerate no one else.
 
Foxy’s life was probably not ideal in that small apartment, living with two heavy smokers who didn’t always get along. I spoke to an animal communicator about Foxy when she first came to live with us, and was told she didn’t like her former home.

“There was a lot of smoke and they were always slamming doors,” the communicator said, according to Foxy. She sure got that right.
 
So when my mother-in-law passed away two years ago from cancer, with her husband following behind her only two weeks later, Foxy had no where to go. Because of her cantankerous nature, family members talked about sending her to the city shelter, where I knew she would most likely be euthanized. My husband and I couldn’t handle any more loss of life in such a short time. We opted to bring her back to California.
 
Foxy had never been outdoors in her life, and given her previous living conditions, I figured she would be content staying in our very nice garage. It has windows and insulation, and is about the size of Foxy’s former apartment. I couldn’t see her living in the house with us given her bad rep and the fact that we had four cats already.
 
She seemed okay being confined to the garage for the first couple of weeks, but then decided she needed to explore the world. She began dashing out the door at every opportunity, and became more impossible to catch, despite the fact that she had come to trust me and would let me to pick her up now and then. It was clear Foxy had her own ideas about how she wanted to live her life. No garage cat was she. She wanted to be an urban farm cat.
 
These days, Foxy spends her time roaming around our half acre, harassing lizards, stalking birds she can’t catch (the big bell on her collar scares them off every time) and rolling around in the dirt. In the late afternoon, we lure her into the garage for her dinner, where we keep her confined to protect her from coyotes that prowl through the night.
 
Whenever I look at her, I think about the grumpy New York City apartment cat who has since become a friendly, happy urban barn cat. She has become a fixture on our little farm, and I can’t imagine life without her.

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Categories
Animals Crops & Gardening Poultry

More Chicken Trouble

te-pee
Photo by Jessica Walliser

Thanks to the fortress-like fencing now around the veggie garden and strawberry patch, we are managing to enjoy quite the harvest already. 

In my post from two weeks ago, I mentioned my struggle to keep the hens out of the garden.  The wing clip didn’t work so I had to top the wooden fence with a few feet of chicken wire and surround the strawberries with a four foot high box wire fence. 

It doesn’t look all that graceful, but it’s working and that’s the only thing that counts sometimes—especially when it comes to animal fencing.

Memorial Day weekend was spent mostly outdoors, working and playing.  The weather was perfect for a canoe ride, a trip to the pool and three mornings in the garden. 

I have nearly finished mulching (for now anyway) and have been managing to make a dent in all the young weeds springing up here and there.  The patio containers have been planted, annual seeds sown and the pond has been cleaned. 

Time in the vegetable garden was especially nice this weekend.  Beans, cukes and melons planted, and taters hilled.  I also snapped off all my garlic scapes and plan to cook with them tonight (not sure how yet, I’ll have to browse the internet for a good recipe). 

The cabbage worms seem to be worse this year than last.  I have noticed many on my broccoli and cabbage and have been trying my best to pick them off when I find them.  I ought to have the plants under row covers, but I never got around to it in April and now it’s too late for that.  So handpicking it is.

I suspect that there are more cabbage worms around since the Jenny wrens and chickadees we had nesting in the birdhouses on the front corners of the garden haven’t returned this year.  It was fun to watch them hop around the garden last year plucking bugs up as they went. 

I would let the chickens back into the garden if they would just promise to only eat the bugs.  Anyone know a good chicken trainer?   

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Categories
Urban Farming

Poppies and … Huh?

Poppies in Italy

Photo by Rick Gush

I’ve set aside room in my garden for Italy’s red poppies.

Ah, June is almost here and it looks like we’re finally going to have a pretty spectacular show of red poppies in the garden this year. 

These poppies, Papaver rhoea, are easily the most beautiful weed here in Italy. When I take the train from the coast into Milan on the central plain, I see a whole lot of fields of grain that are infested with this weed, to the point that the fields can sometimes look completely red. The train tracks are also frequently covered with these poppies, and I tried to take a representative photo last week while I was on the train, but all I got were a bunch of masses of blurry red, so you’ll have to take my word for it—these weeds are pretty spectacular. 

Actually, these red poppies grow wild all over the Mediterranean and up into many parts of southern Europe.  BTW, they are not the famous Afghan poppies from which heroin is made. Those plants are much taller, the seed heads are much larger, the flowers are larger and often double-petaled, and the flower color is much paler than the red poppies.

collected some seed heads a few summers ago, and after a few false starts I do believe I have finally figured out how to propagate these crimson beauties. Of course, they are a pesky weed, even in my garden, and I’ve had to cut away some big swathes in order to be able to plant my tomatoes and squashes. In general, my plan is to establish the poppies as self-seeding natives along the south border of the garden, but root them out wherever they occupy space that we want to cultivate. 

Aside from being beautiful, the poppies do have a useful side, because their seeds can be harvested and used as poppy seeds for baked goods. I thought harvesting and cleaning the tiny little seeds was going to be a pain, but it turned out to be fairly easy. I just poked a bunch of pinpoint holes in the metal lid of a glass jar and then filled the jar with a bunch of the crushed seed heads. When I shook the jar, the little poppy seeds fell out through the tiny holes, almost as if I had been harvesting poppy seeds all my life. Ha!  I managed to collect a baby-food jar full of perfectly clean seeds in less than 15 minutes!

Italy plant

Photo by Rick Gush

What is this plant? You tell me!

So, today we’ll have a little contest here on the blog:

The photo to the right is of a spontaneous plant that appears every year in my office garden. It’s a beautiful yellow plant that sort of looks like a frilly asparagus shoot. The yellow shoots come up in late May and then shrivel and disappear within a week or two. I’ve also seen a few other less flashy color variations in other gardens. 

So, what is this plant? I actually managed to look it up a few years ago, but I’ve misplaced that information, so I’m hoping one of you readers might be interested in doing the research this time. If anybody does find out what this plant is, I’ll be glad to send them a package of seeds, either red poppy seeds or any other Italian vegetable seed that might interest them.

(Note: If you wish to compete for a prize, please include your e-mail address in the indicated field when submitting your comment. The Urban Farm Online editor will contact you directly for information on where to send your prize. Please do not include personal contact information in your comment.)

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Categories
News

Preserving Spanish-goat Genes

Spanish goat
Courtesy American Livestock Breeds Conservancy
The Spanish goats located off the coast of South Carolina possess rare genetic adaptations to the local climate.

The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy has completed the first phase of rescuing an isolated population of Spanish goats on an island of the coast of South Carolina. This population is one of only two strains of Spanish goats known to exist in the Southeast. The goats’ genetics are extremely valuable to the Spanish goat population as a whole, which currently numbers less than 7,500 animals in the United States.

This specific Spanish goat population has adapted to the challenges of the hot, humid, swampy environment of the Southeast for 500 years. These adaptations are unique among Spanish goats.

“Spanish goats are important as one of the main landrace representatives in the U.S. for the goat species,” says Phil Sponenberg, PhD, a professor of pathology and genetics at Virginia Tech University. “As is true of landrace livestock, they tend to be adapted and productive in compromising environments. The southeastern representatives of the landrace are extremely important, because these are the very ones expected to have the most inherent resistance to parasites and other environmental challenges. These few remaining herds are extremely important to save as an intact genetic resource.”

Due to inbreeding and predation, the South Carolina Spanish goat population is threatened with extinction. Thirty years ago, there were more than 100 Spanish goats on the island. Today, fewer than 30 remain. Removing selected goats from the population and placing them into a conservation breeding program will help promote the survival of this unique strain.

On May 15, ALBC staff members Jeannette Beranger and Marjorie Bender traveled to South Carolina to complete the initial phase of the goat removal process. Previous trips ensured the Spanish goat herd was documented and photographed. Photos were then evaluated by Sponenberg, the ALBC’s technical advisor, to determine Spanish phenotype and to identify target conservation goats prior to beginning removal. 

ALBC staff members educated the local community about the Spanish goat breed and the process for removing the animals.

A local Native American group, Keepers of the Word, assisted with the rescue. The group consisted of teens and their leaders from the Keepers of the Word “Venture Crew,” a scout group for teens with a focus on Native American principles.

“This was an opportunity to connect tribal members with animals they would have traditionally kept hundreds of years ago and incorporate them into the genetic rescue efforts,” says Beranger. “Ideally, one or more residents will want to become conservation stewards so the animals would literally return home, but to a safer environment.”

In the first phase of the rescue, two pregnant does were removed along with one doeling and one buckling. Members of Keepers of the Word assisted with moving the goats, while volunteers provided their boats for transport.

Spanish goat doeling and buckling
Courtesy American Livestock Breeds Conservancy
A Spanish goat buckling and doeling were rescued so they would not be targeted by predators.

“This was a true service learning experience,” says Cathy Nelso, director of Keepers of the Word. “We’ve been trying to shed light on how DeSoto and other Spanish explorers impacted the tribes in our area, and these goats are a living legacy of that era.”

The rescued goats were brought to the mainland where they were documented. Hair samples were taken for genetic analysis, and the goats were moved into a large trailer for transport. The pregnant does were transported to Brookgreen Gardens, a sculpture garden and wildlife preserve just south of Murrells Inlet, S.C. Brookgreen Gardens agreed to work with ALBC to develop a conservation breeding herd from which satellite flocks can be established as numbers are increased. Brookgreen has several other rare breeds of livestock and provided more than 6 acres to house the goats. The proximity of Brookgreen Gardens to the island ensures the goats will be kept in a natural habitat similar to that of the island. 

The young doeling and buckling that were removed are being kept by volunteers, as they require regular bottle feedings. Once they are able to browse and forage, they will be transported to Brookgreen Gardens to join the rest of the herd. According to ALBC, removal of the young goats was necessary to ensure they were not eaten by predators.

Select goats will continue to be removed and transported to Brookgreen Gardens. As the population grows, satellite flocks will be established.

“Following conservation breeding strategies will be critical to the survival of this line. The small population makes the challenge significant, but with the cooperation of satellite breeders and careful management, this strain and its unique adaptation to the hot, humid and marshy Southeast can be saved,” says Bender, ALBC research and technical programs director. “The goal of our efforts is to secure these animals and their genetics for future generations.”

Categories
Homesteading

Christmas in June

fir branch
Photo by Cherie Langlois

This is the time of year when our dark green Douglas fir trees flaunt new, spring-green needles from the tips of each bristling branch, and I always think about making fir tip jelly for future holiday gifts. 

I think about this until spring slips by, and then forget about it until the following spring when those soft, bright needles appear again, bringing memories of a fir tip jelly sampled years ago and how the sweet, resinous fragrance and taste transported me to Christmas past.  Santa’s-arriving-any time butterflies fluttering in my stomach and our darkened living room splashed with rainbow lights while I curled up near our Christmas tree. 

As far back as I can remember, my family always had a plump Douglas fir, and to this day I can’t imagine inviting any other tree species into our home for the holidays.  

This year, I vow to actually make fir tip jelly, not just think about it.  So I find a recipe for spruce tip jelly that sounds like it will work, and during a rain-break, I grab a bowl and wade through wet grass to one of the towering firs at the back of our property. 

For the next twenty minutes, I relax into the repetitive motion of pulling off fir tips and breathe in the happy, sappy scent of Christmas while the robins belt out spring songs.  Every so often, I peer up through massive branches, marveling at this beautiful tree and how lucky I am to have this little acreage with big trees like this growing on it.  I’m not sure how old the tree is, or how tall. 

According to my guidebook, Plants of the Pacific Northwest Coast (Lone Pine, 2004), Douglas firs can live for over a 1,000 years (their thick bark helps them survive forest fires) and reach nearly 300 feet in height. 

Just as I finish filling up my bowl, the cloud curtain drooping over the western sky lifts a fraction and sunshine angles in, transforming the trees to brilliant greeny-gold against gunmetal storm clouds.  Even if I don’t get around to making the jelly, I think, this has been time so well spent. 

But I will make this jelly.  I’ll start the fir tips simmering right now—promise—and let you know how it turns out.  

~ Cherie            

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Categories
Farm Management

Prevent Fish Kills

A well-managed farm fish pond can provide years of enjoyment and nourishment for the family. However, even a pond manager who maintains an ideal predator/prey fish population balance can encounter unforeseen setbacks. Fish kills can happen for a host of reasons, some preventable and some just bad luck.

Oxygen for Your Fish Pond

A key ingredient to a healthy pond is adequate levels of dissolved oxygen. The vast majority of fish kills can be tied to this most basic need. Oxygen is supplied to the pond primarily through photosynthesis. Aquatic organisms, called phytoplankton, capture rays of sunlight for energy to convert carbon dioxide to glucose and oxygen. The building block of any pond is the balance of these microscopic algae and nutrients. A collapse of this community will almost always result with fish loses in a pond.

Phytoplankton population greatly expands in summer. The process can be exacerbated by an influx of nutrients from cow manure or agricultural fertilizers in the pond’s watershed or the over-fertilization of the fish pond by a well-meaning pond manager to enhance fish growth. Early symptoms of oxygen depletion may be identified by paying close attention during the morning to if fish are gulping air at the surface or if there are dead fish present.

A densely populated phytoplankton community will begin to influence oxygen levels in the overnight period as photosynthesis shuts down after dark. A key morning symptom of a looming catastrophe is fish gulping at the surface. Fish exhibiting this behavior are literally suffocating, and it’s possible some fish may die. Oxygen levels will improve as the sun rises and photosynthesis resumes, yet the cycle can continue every night.

Phytoplankton Loss

A loss of adequate sunlight or overpopulation of phytoplankton, which shade other phytoplankton, can lead to the mortality of phytoplankton in your fish pond. This catastrophic occurrence can lead to major fish kills in your fish pond. Losing the phytoplankton not only decimates the pond’s ability to replenish its oxygen level, but decomposers gobble up residual oxygen as they break down the dead algae. This leaves no oxygen for your fish.

At the same time, an overpopulated phytoplankton community can shade out other phytoplankton at lower levels of the water column. The occurrence could begin the chain reaction to drive down oxygen levels. Should this be coupled with consecutive days of excessive cloudiness, then significant phytoplankton losses could occur, yielding a major fish kill. Water that is brown in color signals a major algal die-off.

Preventing Fish Kills

To avoid summer fish losses, you can employ a number of tactics:

  1. First and foremost, protect your fish pond from the addition of unknown sources of nutrients. Having a good buffer to serve as a filter around the fish pond will help alleviate nutrient overflow.
  2. Never use organic-based fertilizers to fertilize your fish pond—only use inorganic fertilizers as recommended by an expert.
  3. Use caution when controlling unwanted aquatic vegetation. Killing excessive vegetation at one time can increase the amount of oxygen used by decomposers.
  4. Finally, if your pond continually shows signs of oxygen depletion, consider investing in an aerator, which will cycle oxygen-depleted water from the bottom of the fish pond and expose it to oxygen from the air. Because oxygen is at the root of most fish kills, an aerator can help minimize problems, but it will not guarantee a kill-free pond.
  5. A savvy pond manager could diagnose oxygen problems and employ a portable pump and hose to create a makeshift fountain.  This technique can help alleviate or minimize fish kills at a fraction of the expense of an aerator.

Seasonal Pond Problems

Fish kills aren’t limited to the summer; oxygen depletions can happen year-round.

A common fall phenomenon that can cause large fish kills is pond turnover. The deeper segments of a fish pond (generally 10 feet or lower) are typified by lower levels of dissolved oxygen and are colder. Cold water is denser, so it remains at the bottom of the pond. As fall materializes, the temperature gradient between the warm column and cool column are minimized.  Cold rains or strong winds can cause a rapid turnover of the water columns, causing a prompt, catastrophic loss of dissolved oxygen where fish reside.

In winter, snow and ice cover can also result in low levels of oxygen due to the death of phytoplankton from excessive shading. Again, an aerator can help alleviate these circumstances, keeping a pond from icing over and keep it oxygenated despite some phytoplankton loss. However, an aerator may not prevent a catastrophic turnover.

Fish kills can result through other mechanisms, too. Spring often begets fish kills from an overabundance of prey species. This is not necessarily a bad thing, because it’s nature’s way of house cleaning. It should send a message to the pond manager that the fish pond may be unbalanced. Pollutants can also infiltrate a fish pond and cause fish kills. Pond pollutants include pesticides, herbicides, and other chemicals. A fish disease can also generate pond problems.

Don’t let a fish kill ruin your desire for having a farm fishing pond. Be observant, consider the circumstances, and try to understand the mechanism that caused your loss. If you have a lot invested in your fish pond, then an aerator could be worth the money. However, don’t rely on it as your unfailing safety net. Learn from that experience and adjust in the future, because not all fish kills will be catastrophic.

Categories
Equipment

14 Trailer Safety Tips

It’s inevitable. At some point in your farming experience you will need to tow your livestock from point A to point B. Before you and your livestock hit the road, it’s necessary to take precautions to minimize potentially dangerous problems.

“You can’t be over-prepared when it comes to hauling your animals,” says Mark Cole, managing member of USRider, a 24-hour nationwide roadside assistance program for members and their towing vehicles and trailers. “If you’re proactive, you’re going to greatly minimize the risk of being on the side of the highway.”

Cole suggests completing the following 14 safety checks on your truck and trailer before loading your livestock or horses to go to the sale, show or fair:

  1. Replace wheel bearings every 12,000 miles you drive or annually, regardless of mileage, due to possible moisture buildup. Carry a spare wheel-bearing set in case of premature failure on the road.
  2. Look for dry rot on tires, uneven tire wear, overall tire wear and tire damage.“You’ve got to have good tires, right tires,” Cole emphasizes. “Good tires are like good shoes. They only hurt once, and that’s when you buy them. The right kind of tires will perform and will last longer.”

    Cole says to replace tires every three to five years regardless of mileage, and always carry two spare tires.

  3. Check tire pressure on all tires, including the spares and the inside tire on dual wheels.To monitor the pressure while driving, Cole suggests a tire-pressure monitoring system.

    “Those are worth their weight in gold,” he says. “The system lets you put a finger on the pulse of tire pressure from inside the cab. If it changes more than 15 percent, you get an alert; if it drops below 25 percent, you get another alert. If you pick up a nail, it will notify you that you are losing tire pressure.”

  4. Double-check that the trailer hitch is latched and the correct-sized ball is used.“People are often in a hurry and forget to latch the hitch,” Cole says. “It doesn’t come unhitched by itself—you just forgot to latch it! If the hitch is properly latched, it will not separate from the ball.”
  5. Make sure safety cables and chains are securely connected.
  6. Ensure the electrical connection is plugged in and secured.
  7. Confirm that the breakaway system is connected and secured.
  8. Make sure the emergency battery is charged.
  9. Check lights on the trailer brakes and turn signals, as well as the running and perimeter lights.
  10. Test to ensure the brake controller is working properly.
  11. Before loading horses, check the trailer for any hazards. Cole says mismatched equipment (for example, too large a trailer for a too-small tow vehicle) is a common problem.“Don’t try to tow a heavy horse trailer loaded with horses with a vehicle that is not of the proper weight that can handle it,” he says. Although your vehicle may pull and stop the trailer, in an emergency situation, the tow vehicle needs to mange the weight and the forces put upon it by the trailer, and not let the trailer take control.
  12. Secure and latch all trailer doors. Use a snap hook or carabineer to prevent accidental opening.
  13. Drive with headlights on.
  14. Drive safely, allow for greater braking distance, and travel at slower speeds.Cole says driver inattention (i.e., talking on cell phone, texting, messing with the radio) and driving too fast for weather and road conditions are some of the main causes of trailer accidents.

    “You’re hauling a vehicle that is as heavy or heavier than a commercial vehicle. And you have your family members—horses—in the back, and they can’t help themselves.”

Categories
Crops & Gardening

Pepper Problems

Peppers
Courtesy USDA/ Robert Griesbach
Keep your peppers healthy by keeping lookout for spots or lesions on the pepper plant’s fruit or foliage and by checking for abnormal growth.

From hot chili peppers to sweet bell peppers, these summer fruits bring flavor, color and variety to many of the foods we love. To get the most out of your pepper plants this summer, follow these suggestions for common pepper problems from experts at the University of Illinois and Texas A & M University agricultural extension agencies.

Pepper Fruit Fail
The right growing temperatures are vital to produce fruit in a pepper plant. For bell-type peppers, daytime growing temperatures should fall between 70 and 80 degrees F; for hot peppers, optimum growing temperatures are between 70 and 85 degrees F.

Most peppers will drop their blooms when day temperatures are above 90 degrees F and night temperatures are above 75 degrees F, with the exception of hot peppers, which can withstand hot weather better. Pepper plants can’t tolerate frost, and when night temperatures are below 50 to 55 degrees F, the plant leaves may turn yellow and flowers may drop.

Tip: Start your pepper plants from seeds indoors in late winter and transplant them into the garden after the soil and air have warmed in the spring. After transplanting, use raised beds, black plastic mulch and floating row covers to warm and drain the soil when cool weather persists in the spring.

Pepper Foliage Foils
Spots or lesions on the foliage of pepper plants may be the result of a combination of three foliage diseases: Alternaria leaf spot, Cercospora leaf spot and bacteria leaf spot.

Tip: Use an organic fungicide at the first sign of the disease and continue at one- to two-week intervals during the height of the disease.

Abnormal Pepper Growth
Distorted or yellowed foliage and fruit on pepper plants are probably the result of viruses transmitted by aphids. Aphids are tiny insects clustered on the undersides of leaves and on new growth. As they suck pepper plant juices, the leaves become yellowed and distorted, and they often cause viruses to spread. When a pepper plant becomes infected with one of the aphid viruses, remove the plant.

Tip: Be sure the pepper plants you buy are healthy, and use a good insect-control program.

Wilted Pepper Plants
If the inner stems of your pepper plants are dark and plants wilt and die soon after a rainfall, the plants may be infected with Phytophthora stem rot, a soil-borne fungus that’s particularly severe when water stands around the plant.
If the pepper plants have a white growth at the base with small, bead-like structures the size of a pinhead, the plant could have southern blight, also caused by a soil-borne fungus. Remove the leaves around the base of the plant to prevent the spread of the fungus.

Tip: Plant in a raised bed for best drainage. If your plants are in the ground, use crop rotation and bury your organic material deep to control the fungus.

Wiggly Trails
Small, wiggly trails on the leaves of pepper plants are caused by leaf miners, and large amounts of them can defoliate plants and reduce yields.

Tip: Treat plants with a biological or biorational insecticide (such as SunSpray Horticultural Oil) two or three times a day at five- to seven-day intervals.

Sun Spots
Tan or translucent spots on developing pepper fruit is most likely sunscald, a condition that occurs when the fruit is exposed to direct sun during the hottest part of the day.

Tip: As soon as you see sunscald, remove the fruit to stimulate more foliage growth and more fruit protection.

More Pepper Tips
Watch your pepper plants carefully, because early detection, particularly from pest problems, can prevent damage. Damaged leaves or stems on the plants should be removed and destroyed. Do not compost damaged foliage. Be sure to keep the garden area clean of debris, as pruning or weeding remnants can attract insects.

For more information about pepper problems or particular insects in your area, contact your local extension agency