Categories
Animals

Get Ready, Get Set …

A good birthing kit is essential to ensure a safe and healthy baby lamb
Photo by Sue Weaver

Mom repacked the birthing kit after my babies’ births and has it tucked behind the door ready for lambing. Here’s what’s in it and why:

  • Seven percent iodine for dipping newborns’ navels. It’s a prescription item because bad people use it to make a drug called meth, so you might have to substitute a product like Triodine 7 or a holistic alternative like tincture of myrrh
  • A shot glass to hold the navel-dipping fluid
  • Sharp scissors for trimming umbilical cords prior to dipping. She disinfects them and stows them in a ziplock bag
  • rubber leg snare to put on a stuck kid or lamb’s legs to keep track of them while she repositions the kid or lamb
  • O.B. gloves (long ones for foaling or calving)
  • Two large bottles of lube. She likes SuperLube from Premier1 because it’s antiseptic but other lubes work too. Just make sure you have enough!
  • Betadine Scrub for cleaning up prior to assisting
  • A sharp pocket knife because you never know when you need one.
  • A hemostat (ditto)
  • A lamb and kid carrying sling. When you have to move a ewe from where she gives birth to her jug (that’s a little, private stall where she can bond with her lambies), it’s easiest to take the lambs and then she’ll follow along. But ewes aren’t wired to look for flying lambs, so when you pick them up, she thinks they’re lost and she gets scared. She runs back to where she gave birth to see if they’re there, so you have to carry the lambs close to the ground so that doesn’t happen. That means bending over and walking while the lambs’ feet barely skim the ground. Mom says her back is too old for that; that’s why she loves her lambing sling. 
  • A halter or collar and lead, in case she has to secure a nervous mom while babies learn to nurse
  • Two flashlights. Mom likes to have a backup in case the first flashlight fails
  • Two fluffy terrycloth towels. Hand towels for lambs and kids because they’re just the right size; bigger ones for mares, cows and llamas

Mom keeps her birthing stuff in a Rubbermaid step stool storage box. That way she has a comfy place to sit while watching a birth. Overflow like towels, halters and leads go in a plastic feed or supplement pail with a snap-on lid.

With a birthing kit you’ll be ready for whatever happens. Next week I’ll show you how to tell when a ewe or doe is ready to burst!   

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Categories
Crops & Gardening Farm Management

10 Native Plants to Market

Investing time and effort to identify your native plant’s niche is your key to finding a successful market. Native plants can serve a number of functions, such as production agriculture, conservation plantings and landscaping. While research on your part cannot be replaced with a Top10 list, use these 10 native plants as your guide to start your marketing venture:

Switchgrass

1. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)
A versatile, tall, warm-season grass, Switchgrass comes many varieties and can be a great forage, hay and conservation plant, as well.

Hardiness zones: 5 to 9

Retail price: $6 to $18 per pound of seed

Indian grass

2. Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans)
A beautiful, tall, warm-season grass that has been a staple in conservation planting, Indian grass also can serve as forage and hay. 

Hardiness zones: 4 to 9

Retail price: Around $11 per pound of seed

Big bluestem

3. Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii)
An attractive, tall grass often planted with Indian grass, big bluestem is generally less dominant but can be a good forage and hay species. 

Hardiness zones: 3 to 9

Retail price:
$10 to $14 per pound of seed

Gamagrass

4. Gamagrass (Tripsacum dactyloides)
An extremely leafy native grass, gamagrass has a seed similar to a corn kernel that’s often planted with a corn planter. Gamagrass is a premiere forage and hay grass. Compared to the other tall species, it performs especially well in wetter sites. 

Hardiness zones: 4 to 10

Retail price: $9.50 to $13.50 per pound of seed

Little bluestem

5. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)
The only native short-stature, warm-season grass to make the list, its name highlights its attractive bluish leaves, giving it potential for landscaping use. Little bluestem is gaining popularity in conservation plantings on drier sites, because it only reaches 3 feet in height and is less dominant.

Hardiness zones: 3 to 9

Retail price: $14 to $15 per pound of seed

Purple coneflower

6. Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
A beautiful perennial wildflower that is commonly included in prairie-restoration mixes, purple coneflower attracts butterflies and makes a great choice for landscaping. 

Hardiness zones: 7 to 9

Retail price: $30 to $42.50 per pound of seed

Maximilian sunflower

7. Maximilian Sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii)
Maximilian sunflower is a tall perennial that’s another staple in conservation plantings.  It can be a great addition to landscape designs, because it attracts butterflies and seeds are used by wildlife. 

Hardiness zones: 4 to 10

Retail price: $30 to $47.50 per pound of seed

New England aster

8. New England Aster (Aster novae-angliae)
The purple flower and arrow-shaped leaves of the New England aster make it one of the most showy asters. It’s a perennial worthy of consideration in any flower bed and finds its way into conservation plantings, too. Its price range is set higher due to its minute seeds. 

Hardiness zones: 3 to 9

Retail price: $181.50 to $300 per pound of seed

Black-eyed Susan

9. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
A well-known wildflower that finds its way into nurseries and home-and-garden shops, Black-eyed Susans are worthy of a place in a flower bed and commonly inserted into conservation plantings.

Hardiness zones: 3 to 9

Retail price: $23 to $29 per pound of seed

Soft rush

10. Soft Rush (Juncus effuses)
Soft rush is a common plant wetland plant in mitigation mixes and wetland restoration mixes. It can grow on damp sites for production purposes. It is a showy rush, so it can be sold in conjunction with water features. It is best planted with plugs. 

Hardiness zones: 4 to 10

Retail price: $91 to $200 per pound of seed

No matter what native plant you choose to market, finding one that suits your area makes your product unique. Spend time looking for a natural source of seed to start your native-plant operation. Take advantage of natural-resource professionals or non-governmental organizations, such as the Nature Conservancy, that specialize in natural-resource conservation. Personnel from fish and wildlife, forestry, and parks or preserves agencies can identify native-plant remnants in your area.

Choose to gather native-plant seeds from sites as close to your farm as possible. The closer the seed source, the more likely the plant historically adapted to your local conditions. Remember to get permission before you harvest seed, and keep records of your seed-source locations.

Consider these native-plant categories:

  • Native grasses represent the best avenue to begin in the native-seed market. They are commonly used in USDA Farm Bill conservation programs. Native warm-season grasses are gaining notoriety as forage and hay because they are drought resistant, require little fertilization and grow actively in the mid- to late-summer, when cool-season forages are largely dormant. Both tall and short species of native grasses can be used in landscaping. 
  • Native wildflowers, like native grasses, are also regularly included in USDA Farm Bill conservation plantings. Concerns regarding pollinators provide opportunities for wildflowers to be sold for conservation purposes. Wildflower perennials continue to gain popularity in landscaping, because they are low-maintenance and showy.
  • Native wetland plants are more challenging to establish and manage. They require wetter sites than other species. Wetland plants can be used in landscaping, particularly with water features.

About the Author: John Morgan is a certified wildlife biologist with degrees from Penn State University and the University of Georgia. He, his wife and his daughter live on a hobby farm in Kentucky, where they’ve converted all of their fields to native plants.

Categories
News

Preserving Livestock Breeds

Texas Longhorn cattle
Courtesy Dickinson Cattle Co.
The rare Shorthorn cattle breed was mixed with Texas Longhorn cattle (pictured above), shortly after arriving to the U.S.

While animal genetic material can’t raise the dead, it can help preserve, protect and even improve some rare livestock breeds, as well as revive animal lines that have died out. The USDA Agricultural Research Service’s National Animal Germplasm Program strives to do just that with its more than 547,000 samples of genetic material from 12,000 animals, including dairy and beef cattle, swine, sheep, goats, bison, elk and fish.

By saving genetic material, the NAGP has preserved the native Shorthorn cattle breed, which was imported to the U.S. in the 19th century. Soon after being introduced to U.S. soil, Shorthorn cattle were crossed with the Texas Longhorn and, since then, were successfully crossed with other diary and beef cattle breeds. However, due to the lobbying for purebred, native Shorthorns, NAGP scientists were able to find a group of 15 bulls in a native Shorthorn herd in Nebraska and collect germplasm to preserve the breed. Shorthorn samples have also been used by breeders in Utah to introduce a new genetic variability into the Shorthorn breed.

In addition to preserving breeds, germplasm helps to document diversity in species. In Oxford, Miss., 124 species of fish, amphibians, reptiles and mammals provide a baseline sampling of diversity in that region. In this same area, scientists were able to document a rare fish species, the Yazoo darter, which has since been published in a comprehensive reference work.

Back on the farm, more than 40 genetically unique chicken lines developed at the Avian Disease and Oncology Laboratory in East Lansing, Mich., have helped scientists learn about genetic resistance to disease. This knowledge has led to the development of tools and techniques used in diagnosing and controlling tumors in poultry.

Categories
Crops & Gardening

Building with Bottles

Rick used empty glass bottles to build a terrace
Photo by Rick Gush

While I’m waiting for the soil to dry out so I can prepare the beds for spring planting, I spend time in the garden building a new terrace on the lower part of the cliff. 

Since I use empty glass bottles instead of bricks, the first phase of my projects is always to assemble a huge amount of bottles.  I had stockpiled almost a thousand bottles a month or so ago, so I thought I was good and ready for the construction of the new terrace. 

Well, actually, now that the wall is close to completion I know that the project will need even more bottles than I had prepared.  Luckily, there are a whole lot of bottles available to collect, and my neighbors continue to bring me their empty bottles for recycling.

To make the terrace walls, I stack the bottles up in between layers of fresh concrete, keeping the bottle bottoms flush with the outside edge of the wall, and letting the bottle tops stick into the bed area.  The resultant walls are pretty strong even though the concrete is really only about 8 to 10 inches thick in most places. 

Rick's incredible terrace
Photo by Rick Gush

At key points, where the wall is anchored to the bedrock and at sharp angles, I double the concrete thickness to give extra strength.

Once the walls are built, I put on a row of clay bricks or hollow building blocks that serves as the top edge.  The orange blocks and bricks add a decorative touch that acts as a visual theme and makes a nice sturdy finished edge to the tops of the beds. 

Before backfilling the terrace with new soil I usually knock off the bottle necks on the top few rows in order that the bottles closest to the eventual bed surface are about a foot and a half below the surface of the soil, which is well below the normal cultivation depth. 

I’ll also knock the fronts out of a few bottles on the top row and fill the space with dirt so I can plant hanging things that will eventually cover big parts of the wall front.

This cliff where the garden terraces are built was too steep to walk on and too overgrown to climb up when I started, but now the scrub is mostly gone and there are a number of nice big flat dirt areas to plant with a network of steps leading up and down the slopes. 

The sunshine reflecting on the bottles is attractive and although the plantings are still young and the garden will become better looking in a few years, it is already much nicer than the scrub trees and wild berry vines that used to choke the area.

As usual, no matter how much I build, the garden always seems unfinished to me.  When I look at the garden, the four of five next major projects all appear fairly urgent.  I estimated this construction phase to last two years when I first started the garden four years ago.  These days I estimate another two or three years until the garden really looks spectacular.

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Categories
Crops & Gardening

Compost Pile

Jessica's compost bin is in need of a size upgrade
Photo by Jessica Walliser

My husband and I have wanted to build a better compost pile for a few years now.  We do have a standard compost bin right in the veggie garden to collect whatever scraps the chickens aren’t interested in and it’s been great, but we need more—more space and more finished compost. 

It’s been our (mostly my) habit the past few years to dump any collected debris over the fence and let it break down in its own time.  Certainly not a good system considering that the woods now look a little ‘junked up’ and no usable compost is being produced. 

As we were doing the seemingly endless leaf clean-up last fall, John dumped the tractor carts full of leaves into a big pile in the woods just outside the back gate.  And I emptied three carts full of debris from the perennial gardens there too.  It’s quite a nice pile now; several feet high.  I’m certainly not turning it or anything, but I know that eventually it will become beautiful, useable compost. 

So now the topic has become building some sort of containment system for it so that we might continue to dump organic material there and create a huge compost system instead of tossing stuff over the fence.  We both have always wanted to do it, but as with everything else around here, time seems to run out before we get it done.

We’ve discussed using cement blocks to contain it but we don’t want to buy them and lug them all the way up the back hill.  Railroad ties are out for the same reason.  A friend suggested using wooden pallets wired together—a good idea if I can find them and I am absolutely sure they didn’t once hold chemicals of one sort or another. 

Yesterday I went back to the pile for the first time since last autumn and I saw that my smarty pants husband has already got a jump on it with the perfect material—pieces of tree trunk.  Last year we had a gigantic ash tree removed from the yard. 

So much of the trunk was too large to split without the right power equipment so he took all those leftover pieces and built a ‘wall’ across the back and sides of the compost pile. Brilliant!    

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Categories
Crops & Gardening

Cherry Grafting

Once way to graft a cherry tree
Photo by Rick Gush

I was at my friend Richard’s house this week when his neighbor came over and grafted another one of Richard’s old cherry trees.  Richard fired up his chain saw and cut the top of the tree, leaving a couple of waist-high stumps.  

In the meantime, Franco the grafter went to another neighbor’s house and got scions from a sweet cherry tree that produces great fruit.

Franco cut three inch long, quarter-inch wide notches in the top edges of the stumps and then carved the bottoms of the scion pieces into an odd triangle form, with two edges of the scion cut fresh, and the third part of the stem left as is. 

The fresh cut sides were then shoved inside one of the notches cut in the top of the stump, leaving the uncut part of the scion with bark intact positioned toward the outside.  Once all the scions were in place he wrapped electricians tape around the top edge of the stump, in such a manner as to hold the scions firmly in place.  He also had a bit of grafting wax that he daubed on the top part of the joints.

The re-grafting of a cherry tree is done with new scions
Photo by Rick Gush

I was surprised that instead of a fancy grafting knife, of which there are a lot on the market here, Franco used a big Opinel folding knife.  He says the steel is good and the knife can be made razor sharp. 

Hmm, I own that same Opinel knife, but mine is far from being a razor.  I usually use it to cut cheese and apples when I picnic with my wife.  I’ll have to see if I can get it razor sharp one of these days, perhaps before I do my own grafting on the fig tree this June.

There are a lot of old cherry trees in Liguria, and it seems this fruit tree was a longtime favorite of the local small farmers.   While hiking around in the hills here I’ve seen quite a lot of old cheery trees that have been cut back to stumps and re-grafted with new scions. 

There are also a lot of wild sour cherries that grow around here, called “Amarena” or “sour one.”  I am a Ligurian gardener, and so I myself planted one sweet and one sour cherry this year.  I’m crazy about fresh cherry juice, and a mix between sweet and sour cherry juice is pretty close to paradise.  I also always order Amarena flavor ice cream cones in the summer.

Richard’s problem was that he had a few mature trees that were supposed to be sweet, but produced only mediocre fruit.  The prognosis for the grafts is pretty good, not only because Franco performed a similar, successful, grafting on one of Richard’s other trees last year. 

Today’s second photo shows last year’s tree, and the good growth of the grafted sections is obvious.  I think they may even get a few fruit from the one-year-old grafted sections this season.

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Categories
Crops & Gardening

Winter Thaw

The coming of spring means spring cleaning and planting new plants
Photo by Jessica Walliser

Things are finally starting to thaw.  How thrilling it will be when spring finally arrives—it has been such a long winter.  Yesterday it hit 56 degrees and today we are expecting the temps to reach the low to mid 60’s.  Yipee!

I managed to spend an hour yesterday afternoon in the front perennial bed, raking out some leaves, cutting back a bit of dead growth, and giving it a general sprucing up. 

Seeing the new growth peeking out of the plant crowns nearly made me giddy with glee.  My Leopard’s bane, Chinese forget-me-nots, Nepeta and spurge are already forming tons of new little leaves.  I’m always happy to know that ‘my friends’ actually survived the winter and are willing to show up again for another year.  I did all this clean up while trying very hard to not actually step in the garden. 

The soil is totally waterlogged and I think if I leave any footprints behind some alien archaeologist will still be able to see them a millennia from now.

I’m planning to take advantage of every bit of good weather I can get in hopes of catching a heads-up on all the spring chores over the coming weeks.  Every other gardener out there probably will do the same.  It feels so good to go out in the early spring wearing just a light jacket and actually get something done.

Another chore I (unfortunately) had to do yesterday was poop scoop—probably one of the most horrible jobs to do after a thaw.  But, as I was walking around the yard with shovel in hand, I spotted a bunch of my lawn crocuses peeking above the grass. 

Three years ago I planted a few hundred crocus in an area of the lawn with the goal of creating a spring bulb meadow.  It was so easy to do and looks really lovely every spring.  I always seem to forget they’re there so seeing the new growth yesterday confirmed that somehow, someday, spring will indeed put on her party dress and grace us with her smile.

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Categories
Animals

Three’s a Charm!

Bon Bon's first of the triplets, Wolf Moon First Officer Drex
Photo by Sue Weaver

Wolf Moon First Officer Drex

Bon Bon had her babies on Friday and they are triplets! And guess what? They have badger markings (pretty, horizontal stripes on goats’ faces; in their case white and palest tan stripes on black) but otherwise, they’re black with white shadings just like me.

Bon Bon had my boy really fast. After stripping the goo from his nostrils, Mom placed him near Bon Bon’s face so she could lick him clean (Mom helped but she used a towel; humans are funny that way).

Next she trimmed his umbilical cord to two inches long and dipped it in a shot glass of 7 percent iodine (ow!).

Then she waited. Forty minutes passed. Bon Bon finished cleaning my son; he got up and started nosing her udder. Mom smiled but she was worried, too. There wasn’t any afterbirth coming out, so Bon Bon should have been having another kid.

Bon Bon's second of the triplets, Wolf Moon Kira Nerys
Photo by Sue Weaver

Wolf Moon Colonel Kira Nerys

Mom was getting a bottle of lube from the birthing kit to check her when Bon Bon’s eyes opened wide, her ears stuck out to the sides and she gave a big grunt. She began pawing the straw. Mom put the lube away. Bon Bon flopped down and began pushing hard.

Mom grabbed a towel and squatted behind her. Out plopped another baby. Mom stripped the goo from its nostrils and checked to see what it was. A girl, hurray! But just that quick, out popped another blob. Mom’s mouth fell open; Bon Bon’s did too. Triplets? A first for our farm! And the third baby was a little girl too.

So Bon Bon had her babies exactly on time, 150 days after she was bred (she must have a calendar hidden in the dairy barn). Normal kids are nearly always born between five days before and five days after their Mom’s due date, though a few come even earlier and later.

Bon Bon's third of the triplets, Wolf Moon Emony Dax
Photo by Sue Weaver

Wolf Moon Emony Dax

Mom figures our does’ due dates using neat, free goat gestation software she downloaded for free at Biology of the Goat (you can use it online too, if you like).

She also uses it to determine our sheep’s due dates by subtracting three days from the date the generator indicates (the average sheep gestation lasts 147 days) and that works too.

Now Mom is waiting for lambs to be born. Wren, especially, is really, really fat! Her lambs should arrive in about 3 weeks (her due date is Dad’s birthday too). In the meanwhile, Mom’s trying to catch up on sleep. She wants to be there for every birthing in case anything goes wrong.

Over the next two weeks I’ll tell you what Mom keeps in her lamb and kid birthing kit and how she can tell when the mamas are going to hatch. It’s female stuff but since I’m a sensitive guy, I can talk about it too.

P.S. My new babies are Wolf Moon First Officer Drex (Drex is Klingon General Martok’s son), Wolf Moon Colonel Kira Nerys (she is a Bajoran leader on the space station Deep Space Nine), and Wolf Moon Emony Dax (Emony is one of the Trill-Dax symbionts; we already have goats named Jadzia, Curzon and Ezri Dax). Mom loves Star Trek names!

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Categories
Homesteading

Monteverde Memories and Earth Hour

A Heliconia in Monteverde
Photo by Cherie Langlois

Beautiful flower called Heliconia in Monteverde

For just a moment, I’d like to invite you to step away from your farm, and come with me to the Monteverde Cloud Forest in Costa Rica, a fantastical place filled with such an infinite variety of plants and animals it makes my lush Washington home look like a wasteland by comparison. 

Indeed, when my family and I visited there in March 2006, I felt like Dorothy must have felt when she landed in Oz. 

Imagine a living green cathedral of exotic vegetation and towering trees adorned with vines, bromeliads, and flitting, secretive birds of every color—all enveloped in mist.  Imagine rainbow-carapaced beetles, dazzling blue morpho butterflies, and marching lines of leaf-cutter ants.  Imagine deep purple hummingbirds the size of sparrows buzzing your head by day and fruit-eating bats silently winging past your ear by night.

There’s simply no other place like it on earth.

The landscape of Monteverde was mind-blowing
Photo by Cherie Langlois

Walking on a bridge in Monteverde.

After four action-packed days of zip-lining, trail-riding, and exploring the misty cloud forest, we said good-bye to Monteverde on an organized night walk. 

It was an amazing two hours of little discoveries—tiny frogs and anoles, moths whose eyes shone like stars, sleeping birds—but also very strange: a cloud forest night completely devoid of clouds. 

In fact, scientists report that Monteverde’s mist-free days have increased during recent decades, its dampening and life-giving cloud cover shifting upwards.  Thanks to global climate change, profound biological changes are taking place there (as they are elsewhere)—species shifting their ranges, species vanishing.

I’ll be thinking of Monteverde, not to mention the rest of our planet and its inhabitants (my family and farm included), when I join millions of other people around the world in a symbolic call to action on climate change by dousing our lights for Earth Hour 2010 starting at 8:30 p.m. this coming Saturday, March 27.

Care to join us? 

If you’re still confused or skeptical about the realities of global climate change and its impacts, consider checking out the EPA’s easy-to-understand FAQ.

For the NOAA’s answer to why this winter’s eastern Snowmaggedon doesn’t disprove climate change (and a helpful definition of “weather” vs. “climate”), go here.  You can learn more about Earth Hour 2010 on their website.

Now, back to our farms.

~  Cherie

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Categories
Equipment

Rough Cut Prep

It’s spring, and there always seems to be a few weeds or brambles that didn’t get clipped in the fall.

If you plan to use a rough cut mower to clean things up, take a few minutes before you start to do a little preparation. Time spent up front will keep your mower in good shape for years to come.

As with any implement, make sure everything gets properly lubricated. Make sure safety shields are in place and tightly secured.  PTO shields are critically important. An unshielded PTO shaft is an invitation to tragedy, and it takes only seconds for a loose bit of clothing to wrap itself and its wearer around the shaft.

Rough-cut mowers should be equipped with either a slip clutch or a shear pin. Either one will protect your mower’s gearbox should you run the mower over a hidden fence post, rock or other “immovable” object. 

If your rough-cut mower has a slip clutch, it needs to be able to slip.  Make checking it part of your pre start up routine. Simply loosen the clutches, and start the mower up. The blades shouldn’t spin if the clutches are free. If they do, shut down the mower and tractor. Disassemble the clutch, and separate the disks. All it takes is a little moisture to cause them to stick together.

If your mower uses shear pins to protect the gearbox, toss a couple of extras into your toolbox. The day you don’t is the day a pin will shear, just as the day you don’t check your slip clutch’s slip is the day you hit that post and wreck what otherwise may have been a beautiful spring day.

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